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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 26, 2017 - 08:37am PT
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On my recent less than triumphant return to the stone, I discovered two things:
1)I have no upper body strength, which kinda surprised me. I climb telephone poles, but that does not appear to be enough to stay in top climbing shape.
2)I couldn't see foot holds very well. On easier stuff it didn't matter, but once I got in to the 5.10 range, it really made it more difficult.
It has obviously become time to move up from the drug store eyeglasses.
I have an appointment with an Ophthalmologist tomorrow.
I'm sure I will be given a prescription for glasses.
My primary question is, where should I get them made?
I would imagine that I could get them through the Ophthalmologist, but I am wondering if it would be cheaper somewhere else?
My friend recommended Costco. I am not a member, but I would join if it saved me a considerable amount of money.
What about those mall type chain stores?
Any and all constructive advice is appreciated.
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steve s
Trad climber
eldo
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Mar 26, 2017 - 08:41am PT
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Costco
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 26, 2017 - 09:23am PT
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At COSTCO you can pick up some raspberries, too and get yer hearing checked!
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Mar 26, 2017 - 09:24am PT
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The true definition of being an adult is you have bifocals. I get my exam and then go to eyeglasses .com to have my glasses built. I use Artcraft frames-sort of a John Lennon look. They're super sturdy and cost about $90. The glasses I've had made for me were very well done.
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2017 - 09:36am PT
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^^^^^
lol!
point made, and well taken.
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TooTall539
Social climber
Maine
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Mar 26, 2017 - 10:24am PT
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Zip
Good call on the ophthalmologist over optometrist.
After 5min. of ...is that better... how bout that...this one...? Wait a minute...flashlight back in the eye...ahhh, yes not qualified to say so but looks like a cataract to me. $200.00 bill and its off to the ophthalmologist I go.
At home test for this is put on any set of reading glasses...close one eye and see if there's improvement. No lens will improve the view through a cataract.
Thread drift. As a 17 yr. veteran of the army of the uninsured a couple hrs. of internet/phone work took the surgery from $8,000 to $4,000.
I bought mine through Walmart, titanium frames, polycarbonate lens, w/bifocal gradient (the solid line drives me crazy). cost abt. $350.00
goodluck
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Mar 26, 2017 - 11:20am PT
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I went to the optometrist at Walmart, pretty good exam. he scanned my retina with a special machine and it revealed an issue I need to see a ophthalmologist about.
Zenni sport glasses, tinted yellow for skiing, I wear the Zennis or regular glasses with a Croakie
http://www.zennioptical.com/prescription-sports-glasses-742823.html
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 26, 2017 - 11:27am PT
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You need +.75 or +1.00 diopter reading glasses.
That's all ......
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Mar 26, 2017 - 11:38am PT
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They're watching!
It's getting crazy how fast the algorithms work. I have never seen those banners here before, but they were up as soon as I opened this thread.
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Mar 26, 2017 - 12:33pm PT
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39dollarglasses.com
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Mar 26, 2017 - 12:38pm PT
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I just got a new pair of prescription glasses. My "computer" glasses' frames busted...and, it was time.
My eye Dr. had measured my PD in the past, but, I wanted a specific measurement for my new glasses. Best method I heard for measuring PD at home was to put on a pair of glasses and focus at the distance you want your glasses to correct to. Get a non permanent marker and put a dot on the glasses in front of each eye (close an eye, put a dot, repeat for the other side). Measure the distance. I compared this to a couple of other methods including my Dr office and was close so I used that for my glasses order.
I ordered through Zenni for the first time a couple of months ago. Happy with the results and 57 bucks delivered to my door. Compared to several hundred through a eyeglass shop and they didn't last anyhow.
I'd use them again. Jury is out on durability but, so far so good.
I'll get a pair for distance eventually too...knowing I can't wait too long or the prescription will expire.
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Mar 26, 2017 - 03:00pm PT
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Optometrist here. Kind of funny to see online glasses mentioned here. I know some of you love fondling the shiny, anodized, color coded, DMM or Petal stuff. Disclaimer: we accepted Medicaid at our office, and I regularly recommended drugstore readers when appropriate. Generally, you get what you pay for. Finally, our office supports local non-profits, tries to pay a living wage, sells frames made outside China, etc. Feel free to ask any questions, or even flame away too.
Edit: I've heard you don't need a membership to get an exam at Costco, but you need one to buy glasses. You can get a pretty good exam at Costco or Walmart. Generally, the providers are new graduates, most recent education, just less experienced.
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Mar 26, 2017 - 03:24pm PT
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Jim, good points. Glass scratches less, but is heavy. Isn't safe for all situations. Get ANSI rated safety plastic (type of plastic or thickness) if necessary. A scratch coating will help some. That or safety plastic will usually buy you a warranty (1 redo per year if they scratch). There is always new technology. It isn't necessarily better. Any birders here? I'm sure some are particular about optics. Finally anti reflective coating can be more fragile (usually have a scratch guarantee). Again, good point about buying what you need.
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Mar 27, 2017 - 08:59am PT
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Many small offices have those machines (edgers). The big labs have the latest ones, CNC lathes. Essentially, they take a hockey puck, and they can make virtually any lens design. You neither have to stock all the different lens powers, or materials, nor manufacture them.
I had a lot of respect for a Zeiss rep who said that the newer technology isn't necessarily better unless they can customize the design for the Rx, frame size, curve, p.d., etc.
In the past, a master optician pretty much had a technical degree. I heard from a patient, that her family member worked at Costco lab, just across the border in Mexico (not the best job). Another major lab cuts lenses in Thailand, and flies them overnight back to the U.S.
Finally, many frames are still hand finished. I heard that as many as 8 people will handle a frame while it is being made. Is there room to cut costs? Yeah, and it's been going on for years.
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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Mar 27, 2017 - 09:51am PT
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Jim Clipper how bout solutions for prescription sunglass lenses in curved mountaineering frames?
I go to Opticus in Colorado, but those suckers are very pricey, and you know how easy it is to lose sunglasses...
And i won't wear contacts so that train of thought is out too...
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skitch
Gym climber
Bend Or
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Mar 27, 2017 - 11:25am PT
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I have a good optical insurance plan through work and a couple years ago I bought a pair of ray bans that I like through the optometrists office, but the lenses scratched easier than any other pair of glasses I've ever owned, they replaced the lenses two times for free, but each time they were scratched beyond useable with 2 months.
I have also been buying glasses through zenni for YEARS with good success, and the lenses last much longer than the ones I've gotten from the optometrist, and I don't have to deal with the crabby ladies from the office, just log into zenni and get a new pair in 2 weeks for $15 to $30 including shipping.
The internet might be ruining local commerce, but it's hard to justify paying $50 for a pair of glasses that suck when I can get better ones for $20. Maybe local businesses need to learn how to compete with the internet by training their staff to have a tiny bit of customer service skills and do something about their pricing.
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slabbo
Trad climber
colo south
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Mar 28, 2017 - 12:06pm PT
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Do you have any eyeglass insurance ? I have a vsp plan that gives you a $300 credit towards new glasses as well as exam, etc. pretty good
And have you considered contacts ? There's pretty much a lense for everyone now, and peripheral vision is way better
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Mar 28, 2017 - 03:58pm PT
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If you get bi-focals remember that your feet will be blurry, unless you have them reversed with the corrected lens on the bottom and the lower prescription on the top.I learned this from an airline pilot years ago and have used them since.
I have had many experiences when guiding where clients could not walk in talus or climb well with their bi-focals on, but when they remove them they still can't climb, but at least they can walk
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 28, 2017 - 05:15pm PT
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Maybe local businesses need to learn how to compete with the internet
Local business, unfortunately, have higher overhead in their brick and mortar buildings.
This why their prices are unfortunately higher ......
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Mar 28, 2017 - 08:25pm PT
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duck is wise. Third eye may not need exam. If needed try this:
http://www.cureblindness.org/who-we-are/founders/geoff-tabin-md
1 part western techniques (only necessary medications), 2 parts 3rd world manufacturing cost reduction. Omit liability costs, adapt treatment to suit local culture, gonna make your sage blue eyes clear.
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Mar 28, 2017 - 08:48pm PT
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David,
Curved lenses are tough. Especially when you have a higher Rx. Basically, the power of a lens is determined by the difference between the front and back curves (and the ability of the material to bend light). When you start with a wrapped frame, you end up with a thick lens. Also the lens may not seat well in a frame with a different wrap/curve. The new "freeform" lenses are better able to overcome this.
Also, generally, a larger diameter lens (a wider, wrapped frame), makes for a thicker lens. There are some options: higher index materials, aspheric lenses, and freeform designs, but all are more expensive.
Contacts we were a good suggestion. Also there are inserts like these cycling glasses. Some custom labs could make an insert like this for you.
http://www.rudyprojectusa.com/index_inner.php?group_id=1&cat_id=9
Goggles over your glasses?
I'm guessing old glacier glasses were small and had side shields because it was hard to make large, wrapped, lightweight lenses. Physical optics haven't really changed, and it may still be true. Hope this helps. Please donate a dollar or maybe 2 cents to the link above if it does.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Mar 29, 2017 - 09:04am PT
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If you get bi-focals remember that your feet will be blurry
Good call.
I needed readers at about age 40 (so I'm farsighted). My distance vision is still good. I made the mistake of climbing with some sunglasses with a reader lens on the bottom (like bifocals) and my feet were blurry and not where they appeared to be.
So if you're distance vision is going out (nearsighted) you'll need regular glasses for that for climbing, or reverse bifocals as mentioned, but then I guess your hands above you would be out of focus and not where they appear to be.
Costco is great for so many things if you have one nearby. Good prices on food with lots of organic stuff. Allergy pills are 365 in a bottle for the price of 60 in other places. Cheap fuel. And they're new cash back Visa card is a great deal.
Costco has decent readers in a package of 3 for $15. I got a good pair of coated prescription readers for $85 (from a Dr.) and I just leave them at my computer so they never get lost or damaged. And I continue to use the costco ones everywhere else. They are lighter and more comfortable anyway.
I just got a pair of thinoptics and stuck them on my phone case. They're only $20. Now I always have a pair handy because I always have my phone. And I don't have to stick a pair of glasses in my pocket that can get broken or are just bulky.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Mar 29, 2017 - 09:51am PT
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Feather weight glasses that break when you look at them funny are all the rage. I've had slight luck with small lenses if you can find the right pair of frames that get them close enough to your eyes to have OK peripheral vision. Getting rimless, or half rimmed glasses you have to go with polycarbonate lenses that scratch much more easily than standard CR39 plastic lenses, no matter what coating they put on them, so I always end up with relatively heavy full rims with relatively heavy CR39. The number of options for full rimmed glasses is getting sparser every year however.
Being blue eyed and very bright light sensitive I always get the Transitions treatment, as dedicated sunglasses have always been a mess for me. I either lose them, forget them, or sit on them. I found out this time that you can get the "extra sensitive" option for Transitions where they get about 2x darker, which I really like. Downside is indoors they always have a slight tint. I ought to get a pair of dedicated sunglasses for the car, as Transitions don't do sh#t once your car windows filter out most of the UV.
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Mar 29, 2017 - 06:40pm PT
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Mguzzy: basically it sucks to lose your ability to focus your eyes. It happens to everyone. The options are: separate distance and near glasses, bifocals, progressives, or contacts.
I'd be hesitant to recommend progressives. They cost more and may not be any better for sports than bifocals. With progressives, things still look different when you look down. You can get a swimming sensation with them too. However, there is less image "jump" than bifocals, and they give you some more intermediate clarity.
Also, maybe think about sports glasses or contacts. I've seen people lose their eyes. Distance only glasses/contacts may be a good compromise. Just don't look at your watch or keep score. Finally, ask friends what works for them. You're not the only one going through it.
Fet: golfers often ask to get glasses to see the ball. If I remember, they made a round segment bifocal with a +0.50 diopter add. +0.75 may be too strong and that is usually the minimum. With a 0.50 D add you should be able to see your feet. A good eye doctor should be willing to trial the Rx, and let you stand up and put your foot on the baseboard (or something). I would think that placing gear or building an anchor would be more difficult (critical).
Del cross get a new eye doctor.
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Mar 29, 2017 - 10:13pm PT
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Newer freeform designs are supposed to have the potential to minimize distortions. Rx, lens material, lens "wrap", frame size, distance of the lens from your eye, lens tilt, progressive design, etc. all affect "distortions". How much those distortions affect your satisfaction clinically is more difficult to quantify.
Some people are happy in older progressive designs. People's tolerance and work environments vary greatly.
For what it's worth. I don't know who funded the studies.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/27918396
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/27536974
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Mar 30, 2017 - 09:44am PT
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If I remember, they made a round segment bifocal with a +0.50 diopter add. +0.75 may be too strong and that is usually the minimum.
That's great info. My vision is okay from the length of my arm on. So I'm fine for climbing/sports as long as I don't have a reader lens. But for someone who needs reading and distance glasses a bifocal prescription with a low power reading boost may be just the ticket to see your feet and hands clearly without affecting the perceived distance too much.
I started with 1.25 glasses at age 40, then a few years later went to 1.75, now I'm at 2.00. But I still have the lower power ones around. I often use the 1.75s for things like working in the shop, where I don't need to read things close up but need a little better focus a little farther out.
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Mar 30, 2017 - 09:38pm PT
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I did a quick search for 0.50D adds, and I couldn't find one. A good lab could tell you if they exist. Also, you may be able to do it in a freeform lens.
Alternatively, you could possibly undercurrent one eye .050D.
You could also slightly over correct your distance -0.25, and use a +0.75 bifocal add. This would give you a 0.50D add. A patient doctor who has some time should be able to trial the options in office.
Glasses like you describe may not make that much of a difference. Unfortunately, part of dealing with losing your near vision seems to be resigning yourself to the fact that there aren't any magic bullets. Most solutions are mildly inconvenient.
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Mar 31, 2017 - 09:50am PT
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What David Knopp said, Opticus out of Colorado is spot on for prescription sun glasses. They will send you several pairs to try on and then you can place your order. They run in the $300.00 range for distance and $400.00 for progressive lenses. This is half the price of my local eye glass shop. i have them put clear lenses in their frames as well.
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