Big Wall Heaven... Above the Clouds

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 156 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Mar 6, 2017 - 10:45am PT
We didn't notice any glass shards on Wino Tower, but I remember seeing them there in 98 when we made the 8th Ascent of Reticent Wall.

It's too bad about Wall of Early Morning Light - the bottom pitches were chopped by Jim Beyer, including the bolts on the first 5.10 pitch. One wonders if you could swing in from around the start of Space to reach this place, and replace the bolts? I am told the entire route is unrepeatable below where New Dawn enters, because of the bolts and rivets Jim Beyer chopped. Anyone know?
Gunkie

Trad climber
Valles Marineris
Mar 6, 2017 - 10:52am PT
Jim Beyer sounds like a warm cuddly guy that has a worldly vision and carefully considers the opinions of those within the same ecosystem.
Mike.

climber
Mar 6, 2017 - 10:58am PT
Simple climb the route and place HW where it's missing. Unrepeatable? LOL, it was put up GU on aid.

This great historic route has sat chopped for over a decade while the local "steward" drills on existing routes and adds rap stations willy nilly. How about one of you neighborhood guys motivate and get it done? Need some steel? I can help if it's the real deal. I won't be able to get there until later this year if at all.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Mar 6, 2017 - 11:08am PT
Man, what's with you guys climbing in crappy weather? I'm glad I never had the opportunity to sit out a storm. Close on Mescalito, but we were only 5 pitches up and grudgingly but (in retrospect) gladly bailed when a ranger PSA shouted out about a late season winter storm bearing down. We got to the ground just as the drops started. The following day the upper part of the wall was plastered. Dramatic looking but no thanks. Props to you.
anita514

Gym climber
Great White North
Mar 6, 2017 - 11:40am PT
Cuz only in bad weather can you get bitchen selfies


Bivy on Triple Direct
Bivy on Triple Direct
Credit: 'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Edit: caption is incorrect - this was on Squeeze Play.
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
Mar 6, 2017 - 01:41pm PT
Classic Shield headwall bivy
Classic Shield headwall bivy
Credit: BrassNuts
WOEML, 1995.  June snowstorm later that day :-p
WOEML, 1995. June snowstorm later that day :-p
Credit: BrassNuts
El Cap spire, 1998 - best bivy in America? :-&#41;
El Cap spire, 1998 - best bivy in America? :-)
Credit: BrassNuts
Dan McDevitt

Trad climber
yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2017 - 01:47pm PT
Thanks Anita
heres one when i took my buddy Mark up his first wall. he's a badass whitewater guy so i knew he would dig it!
winter on the Zodiak
winter on the Zodiak
Credit: Dan McDevitt
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Mar 6, 2017 - 05:08pm PT
Credit: Jim Brennan

Credit: Jim Brennan
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
Mar 6, 2017 - 07:28pm PT
Up?
Up?
Tamborine
Tamborine
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
Mar 6, 2017 - 08:48pm PT
IAD of Astrodog in the Black Canyon May '16. Myself and Timmy O Neil being filmed by Jack Plantz, (with backpack). Photo credit: Steven Van Sickle
Credit: wayne w
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Mar 6, 2017 - 09:55pm PT
Good one Nita😸

Boy oh boy those pics are spectacular! Let'em loose people

Best thread yet‼️




✖️✖️✖️NO POLITICS OR RELIGION ALLOWEDD✖️✖️✖️
fgw

climber
portland, or
Mar 7, 2017 - 09:59am PT
High above South China Sea (on our way to failing):
the albatross

Gym climber
Flagstaff
Mar 7, 2017 - 10:33am PT
PTPP - re: WOEML, I believe McCray and either Schneider or Florine did that route, with the one that wasn't Brian free soloed the first pitch. They also found smashed belay anchors and what appeared to be booby trapped fixed gear (wires sawed off). Fortunately at Brian's insistence they had brought a drill bit (no handle), he had rivets in his chalk bag and were able to do the route in a push. I'm not an El Cap climber so not exactly familiar with which variations they took. McCray went back with Ammon and did the route in a day.
Mike.

climber
Mar 7, 2017 - 11:25am PT
Thanks for the recollect, albatross. The info from Hans is floating around here somewhere. IIRC, just a few pitches need work. Should be NTB as there is a lot of crack climbing through there. P1 slab has lots of hook stances.

The climbing is, as Royal and Dan M. would no doubt agree, worthy. A little grassy, no sh#t. The route deserves to exist and be climbed. It used to be a standard moderate that kept the Mescalito traffic down. Many cool, steep pitches on the route.

Happy to provide bolts/hangers/drills to get it done. It's like A2 with some added construction work, wouldn't have to top out. Two sixers of your favorite venom for your selflessness, too. (Anyone who gives a sh#t can add to the kitty.)


Rerun alert... Below the deepest roof on El Cap:



Mike.

climber
Mar 7, 2017 - 11:32am PT
fgw: Assuming no one was grievously injured or killed, and based on the evidence you presented, I don't understand what failing occurred. Still together, right?

; )



vvv Aye, great!
fgw

climber
portland, or
Mar 7, 2017 - 12:30pm PT
:) thanks Mike - yeah all good even if no summit.
anita514

Gym climber
Great White North
Mar 7, 2017 - 12:35pm PT
hey Mike - which roof? Great shot!
Mike.

climber
Mar 7, 2017 - 12:42pm PT
That's the Dawn Roof, Anita. I think that's the official name of it. Not wide like some of the arching roofs/overlaps elsewhere, but must be over 20' deep, and perfectly flat underneath. The route slinks up it's right side, so you never really climb it, but it's a cool position with some euphoric clean aid up to it.

Make your boyf undertake a restoration mission so you guys can check it out : )

vvv Yea! Settle that score!
anita514

Gym climber
Great White North
Mar 7, 2017 - 12:43pm PT
Oh yeah, the roof we looked up at for days and never got to climb through :(
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Mar 7, 2017 - 01:39pm PT
^^ ... that would be the one ...

I think I'm 0 fer 3 if not 0 fer 4 on the New Dawn variation of WOEML.

I'm up for a repair of WOEML with anyone interested.......
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