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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 26, 2017 - 06:02pm PT
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Come on out and listen to some wild and tall tales from yesteryear, as told by the man who lived them! This promises to be a great evening with superb photos and great narrative. Everyone should climb in the Needles and Kris is the guide to your adventure! See you there!!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 26, 2017 - 09:33pm PT
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hey there say, TYyeary...
say, thanks for sharing...
hey there, say, to you kris!
:)
neat to see this!
congratulations... :)
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Feb 26, 2017 - 09:37pm PT
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Kris, congrats bro!
You'll have to show me around the place sometime. And we'll do the shuteye gig again too.
Good times, woot!!!
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Yinzer
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Feb 26, 2017 - 10:42pm PT
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omg COMING FOR SURE ...
can't wait to have my first real 'season' there this year. I've made a few visits and a few sends... but am excited to dig in way deeper!
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Feb 27, 2017 - 09:38am PT
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Heya, Tony.
TFPU, I'll try to make the Arcadia show.
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Splater
climber
Grey Matter
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Feb 27, 2017 - 01:05pm PT
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when is the san diego show?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 27, 2017 - 01:27pm PT
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That's one I would love to see if I wasn't in Patagonia! Still haven't gotten to the Needles....perhaps this year.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Feb 27, 2017 - 01:33pm PT
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We'll be there at Northridge. Can't wait.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Feb 27, 2017 - 01:35pm PT
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Yes, San Diego would be great!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Feb 27, 2017 - 01:41pm PT
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Thanks for posting. Going to try to make the Santa Monica show.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 27, 2017 - 03:42pm PT
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That's one I would love to see if I wasn't in Patagonia! Still haven't gotten to the Needles....perhaps this year.
Mr. Donini, you have an appointment with The Needles. Better weather than down there too... :-)
Yes, San Diego would be great!
I sure wish member to member messaging worked.
So maybe we can work something out. Drop me a line at
kristian underscore solem at verizon.net
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Feb 27, 2017 - 09:26pm PT
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looking forward to that!
and Donini, it is the best.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Feb 27, 2017 - 10:22pm PT
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Sounds great. Hope to be there in Arcadia!
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Yes. Glad to see you doing a bunch of presentations Kris.
For NorCal folks - Kris will be up in the Bay Area May 1-3.
Dononi- I know you'll be in the area. I hope you can make it to one of these in May.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Do NOT miss this. Great slide show, Great climbing area, Plus the last guide was eventually worth like $700. So imagine what your signed edition of the KSolem book will be worth.
It's gonna be so Great. No one is Greater on the Needles.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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No one is Greater on the Needles.
That's very kind of you, but I know a few people who deserve that mantle more than I...
None the less, I will admit to putting on a nice show...
:-)
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Plus the last guide was eventually worth like $700 Really? I guess I waited too long to sell.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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See you in Northridge...
calling all climbers
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nathanael
climber
CA
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Sounds sweet, I'll check it out in Arcadia
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Dumb question from someone who has never been there.
Is that group of rocks in the first photo the full extent of the Needles?
Looks like some of the cleanest rock in the universe
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Thats 85% of it... Voodo Dome is just showing a little bit of one side, on the right side of that shot.
Its even more impressive when viewed in real life, from the lower road at Needlerock creek.
You must make the trip.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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The Season? Late spring through fall?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Depends on the year. This is a big snow year so the gate on the dirt road could be closed 'till June. If you hike the road it's about three miles to camping and another two or less to the crags...
Here's the classic shot from Dome Rock hundreds of people have taken, shows the full extent from a distance.
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nathanael
climber
CA
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Last year was pretty dry and the gate was still closed till June 1
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Last year was pretty dry and the gate was still closed till June 1
Yeah I know. Don't get me started about that :-)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Hi Craig. Damn, we have some catching up to do!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Last year was pretty dry and the gate was still closed till June 1
Yes don't get me started.... At one time we were able to climb on Voodo as soon as the snow melted out, from the much lower, south facing road... dry years meant early March... But for $$$$$ reasons the FS can't send one person out to chop up any down trees or move any rocks off of the road so we, and other out door users, can't enjoy the boating, fishing and camping located out at the Forks of the Kern. By June its way to hot to go and climb all the excellent multi-pitch climbs found at Voodo... Very Lame IMHO.
Several people have volunteered equipment and labor to go do this for them...... but all efforts have been given a firm NO.
Its about time to start calling the two FS offices every day and asking the question... When is this road going to open up?
and be sure to write your congressman-- early and often.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Looks like great shows. Wish I could catch one. And that book! Lots of folks been waiting for that. It drives me crazy when OUR gov't won't allow us access to OUR land--or even let us fix it up to make it possible. Land of the Free? Yeah, right.
BAd
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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AP from Calgary said:
Looks like some of the cleanest rock in the universe If you are a connoisseur of granite, this place is an absolute must visit. And do it while mind and body are still relatively strong and elastic. The climbs are steep, technical, and generally demand a high standard of style and execution from the applicant!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Roy, you have a gift with words. It's an honor to have your contributions in my book. Seriously, your remarks about Liquid Sky and Duty Now for the Future are highlights of the whole project for me.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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I'll second Kris' sentiment. We really do appreciate your wordsmithing Roy.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Thanks, fellas.
The guidebook is looking really good, Kris! Just went through it cover to cover the other day.
One of my favorite photos is the Greg Epperson shot on page 137 of Kevin Daniels and Rico Miledi in, not on, The Nautilus.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dumb question from someone who has never been there.
Is that group of rocks in the first photo the full extent of the Needles?
Looks like some of the cleanest rock in the universe
In 40 years of climbing all over North America, this is the single best cragging area I've ever climbed in.
My biggest climbing regret is that I didn't get to the Needles sooner. It's an incredible place, and I'm sorta pissed that Kris isn't bringing his show to Seattle. But if you love climbing... Go there.
Here's a TR I posted after my visit
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=704406&msg=704406#msg704406
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Yeah Kris, bring that show to Tahoe. Is there a gate or can the public go in there and clear the trees?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Rumour has it that a total of three loose rocks have ever been found there.
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Yinzer
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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I have to agree the length / time of the closures is excessive and unnecessary. The roads are usually in fine shape and with climate change... it's an absolute cook-fest most of the time during the months they are 'open'.
sounds like the top-entrance gate might be the perfect candidate for a ski-tour in to dry-rock send in the next few months. I've heard stories of people mountain-biking in on the lower-road (far!!) but I absolutely love the rock quality and calm fishbowl-like-setting of the surrounding ridges and where the formations sit.
Last I called in december to check on the roads, I think I got a number about who (tulare county officials?) specifically does the gate-openings. If we all keep kindly recommending, it's possible that a new open of may 1 could happen eventually..
Excited for this book show!!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Cool. I've been eagerly awaiting the guide. Thanks for all the hard work Kris.
I'll be lurking in the SF valley on the 15th so I'll be able to make it to Northridge. Yay!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Kris..... ya gotta take the show on the road... Seattle, Portland, Bosie, Tahoe,Denver, Bolder and beyond....... the world demands satisfaction.
Yintzer... X-country skiing in the top way.... this year. The lower road melts out all on its own.... its a 12 mile bike ride to Needlerock creek.
I know of a few climbers who ride in with camping gear and get some great climbing on Voodo.
See ya at the show.
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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take it on the road!! Vegas in April Salt lake in may, Denver in june, Banff in July, Vancouver in August,
you can tell her it is a tax write off!!!!!! a business trip!! and you can drop by Smith Rocks on the way home, oh wait, oops, did i just mention a climbing area?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Ed Bannister is correct. You should!
Get Tony Yaniro to present at a few of these? Name recognition, baby.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 13, 2017 - 09:27am PT
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Is it like a selfie if I bump this thread?
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Mar 13, 2017 - 10:03am PT
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We will cut you some slack Kris
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 14, 2017 - 02:03pm PT
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Wild Times in High Places!
Mike Lechlinski, prior to the FA, West Side Story, Magician west face, 1983:
Two shows still remaining: Wednesday and Thursday night!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mar 14, 2017 - 02:16pm PT
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Bummed that I missed last night's Santa Monica show. My office is walking distance to that REI but both the wife and oldest were sick, so duty called. Got my guide though and can't wait to get out there and put it to good use.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 14, 2017 - 03:20pm PT
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WEST SIDE STORY, 1983
West Side Story is a route to which I contributed much grist, but I was not to be present for the completion of the climb. These were committing face climbing adventures, steep enough to warrant using hooks for some of the bolt placements.
A couple pitches off the deck, at the start of the third lead, I left the belay, underclinging and laybacking a 5.8 flake. Leaving the security of the flake, I headed up into a steeper section of rock with decent features for 5.9/10 face climbing. After linking up a series of moves in the blankness, I was a ways out from my last protection, and it was time to drill, but I couldn’t let go to drill and the only hook placement I could find was a tiny little flake no bigger than a thumbnail. The feature was just thick enough to accept the tip of a Leeper flat. It also had to be weighted at a 45° angle, so it was pretty tricky to drill the hole without disrupting my stance, because I was leaning diagonally off the tiny flake and pushing off smears with my toes.
After nervously hand drilling the hole, I pushed the bolt in with my thumb very carefully and quickly clipped in the rope. I slowly cranked down with the wrench to tighten the hanger into the rock, the flake snapped just as I finished, and I swung on to the bolt. With a short jerk on the rope, Mike caught me and when Mari looked up from below, she wasn't talking about Mike when she yelled, "Someone's looking out for you, Roy!"
I thought to myself, "Well, that someone is supposed to be me, and I'm not doing a very good job!"
We were getting pretty good at drilling on lead, and sometimes we’d get greedy and try to do a whole pitch, or a good part of it, consecutively putting in the necessary bolts, without returning to the belay for a rest. With this ethos in mind, I climbed higher and when I began to feel run out, having pushed plenty far past my previous bolt, I found a place where I might stop and try to drill. It was quite steep and smeary for the feet, yet it was a natural stance. I found I could drop my arms without falling off, and again I started drilling away, but things weren't going so well.
The drill bit was dull and it began binding and I started complaining. I was getting weary. My feet weren't holding and I didn't think I was going to get the bolt in before falling off, when Mike shouted: “Quick … I'll put a Leeper point and a fresh bit on your trail line and you can pull it up, smack the tip of the hook in the hole with your hammer, take aid from it, and start over!"
It worked. After completing that bolt placement, I continued climbing and got about 15 or 20 feet above the bolt, started crimping and laybacking a diagonal edge in the pristine rock, opting to point my right toe down along the contour of the feature, when my foot popped and I sailed out of there, dropping over 30 feet through open air. Jerking down onto the end of the rope, I banged my ankle, and I was pretty shook up.
That was it for me on that route; I lowered to the ground where Mari joined me, took a good look at my rattled nerves, handed me a water bottle, lit her pipe for me, and politely suggested I forfeit my dance card for the rest of the day. Owing to a frostbite injury I sustained to my fingers on a routine training climb later that year, my experience on West Side Story would prove to be the last time I would join in the fun and games of doing new routes in the Needles.
Roy McClenahan
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Mar 14, 2017 - 03:48pm PT
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love the way once in awhile ^^^ a treasure chest sunk in the murk burps up a fully leavened bubble of well digested angst.
i'm packin' the hoopty, a man cannot thrive on juniper pollen alone
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 14, 2017 - 04:43pm PT
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Beautiful Roy.
Today those 1/4" bolts you so boldly placed are in need of replacement. Liquid Sky is done, by a generous team who asked me to keep their names private. Not because they screwed it, they did a perfect job.
I have the ASCA equipment to fix the others you all did on that face, but I'll need a couple competent people to team up. It'll be a bit of a rigging job.
All hail Greg Barnes and his ASCA, and the generous contributors and companies which make his efforts possible.
Edit. Roy there's a route name in there, "True Grist."
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Mar 14, 2017 - 05:55pm PT
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I agree with Tar- that shot IN the Nautilus... I'm drooling over that line now. This Fall It's on the list!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 14, 2017 - 06:12pm PT
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I've been called out for sandbagging that one. P1 and the topout might be a letter grade or two harder than my rating. The topout is definitely height dependant.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Mar 15, 2017 - 08:26am PT
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Hey Kris........bring the show to Kernville: Gateway To The Needles! First beer is on me! Of course, you'll have to save your appetite for some 'Igor Unchained' (13.5%) from KRBC.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 15, 2017 - 08:48am PT
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West Side Story, 1983:
I took a long fall, from the vicinity of Mike's stance on lead, stopping just above the flake.
After retreating to the ground, I took this picture of Mike, ever the faithful captain of his ship, going up to "see what happened".
As if some sort of forensic analysis was required!
Ha ha. His yeoman went a sailing, that is all.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 15, 2017 - 09:02am PT
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love the way once in awhile ^^^^^
a treasure chest, sunk in the murk, burps up !
a fully leavened bubble of well digested angst.
i'm packin' the hoopty, a man cannot thrive on juniper pollen alone.
hooblie, climber, - from out where the anecdotes roam, - Mar 14, 2017 - 03:48pm PT
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 15, 2017 - 09:48am PT
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Of course, you'll have to save your appetite for some 'Igor Unchained' (13.5%) from KRBC.
I hate to disappoint, but 13.5% would be a lethal dose for me, even if it is named after a classic climb. After all the scrapes I've got away with I'd hate to get taken out by an ale. I'll have to stick to their basic IPA or Isabella Blonde.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 15, 2017 - 10:09am PT
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Wish I was not in the bay area still! :(
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nathanael
climber
CA
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Mar 15, 2017 - 12:00pm PT
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Looking forward to the slideshow tomorrow. Really in the mood for the needles, can't wait to get up there. If anyone wants to make the hike in this spring before the road opens up, let me know.
Tommy on P5 of Atlantis
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Mar 15, 2017 - 02:54pm PT
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BUMP - see you tonight in Northridge =)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 15, 2017 - 04:14pm PT
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West face of The Magician, when it was still tabula rasa.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Mar 17, 2017 - 05:47am PT
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TFPU, Tony. Can't imagine it won't be top shelf history and entertainment...
It was top shelf history and entertainment. The slides, or whatever they call them nowadays, were excellent. The photo of Guy's knee might have been the most interesting. The climbing feats were astounding.
The bit on the Gorge of Despair was my favorite. Remote places are very special.
In all a great show, even the non-climbers in attendance found it fascinating as they proved in the Q&A session at the end.
There was an old curmudgeon sitting against the wall. I found out too late it was Reilly. Dude, you left too early! Sorry to have missed you.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Mar 17, 2017 - 08:09am PT
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Great Slideshow Kris. The photos and stories were great. I look forward to reading through the guide. I dragged a non- climbing buddy along but he was able to follow and enjoy the show. Hadn't eaten all day so we bailed quickly.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Mar 17, 2017 - 08:42am PT
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^^ Sorry to have missed meeting you.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 17, 2017 - 08:47am PT
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JTM,where were you hiding? Gary, I had my pocket chess set with me. ;-)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 17, 2017 - 10:50am PT
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Gary, we'll get you and Reilly over here to my place at the same time one of these daze. That'll be interesting.
Reilly, JTM was at Northridge.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Mar 17, 2017 - 10:59am PT
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My sweetie and I really enjoyed the presentation in Arcadia last night. But with the combination of hiking on Baldy earlier in the day and having a big meal with a big glass of wine before the show, I needed to leave right after the "main" presentation.
However, I did manage to snag a copy of the excellent new guidebook. Took a quick look though it this AM and loved the gorgeous photos. More careful review will come over the next few nights. I'm looking forward to reading the stories.
Thanks for all the hard work, Kris!
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Mar 17, 2017 - 11:05am PT
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Hey Kris -
Just a reminder....gonna give you a ring Sunday about the logistics. Catch you then.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 17, 2017 - 11:56am PT
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Sounds like the shows were a great success, Kris!
.....................................................................
Lechlinski on the first ascent of Liquid Sky, Magician West Face, 1983:
Mari on the first ascent of Jughead, Sorcerer's Apprentice, 1983:
E, Mari, and Mike, early ascent of Atlantis, Sorcerer, Upper East Face, 1983:
Photos recently tuned up by Peter Haan.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Mar 17, 2017 - 12:11pm PT
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Tarbuster, nice photos. TFPU
I've only been to the Needles once, got shown around by Greg Vernon. It really is exceptional rock.
Kris, I guess you should have had a Supertaco introduction segment. Then I could have used his pocket chess set to clean Reilly's clock with a King's Gambit! :-)
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 17, 2017 - 02:33pm PT
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TAR.... keep the photos coming.
more please
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Mar 22, 2017 - 10:03am PT
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While the topic is hot, I'm gonna throw this juicy nugget out there....
With the new release of Igor Unchained at KRBC and the release of the new Needles guidebook, Kris has agreed to come to Kern River Brewing Company on May 20th (Sat) @ 5:30PM to conduct his slideshow presentation! This is a limited space gig (limited to 30 people). KRBC will be pouring Igor Unchained, along with its other tasty brews, and provide a brewery tour once the show is over. More details later via Kern River Brewing Co, Facebook page and a future thread here at the Taco.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 22, 2017 - 10:20am PT
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What about bivying in the vat room afterwards?
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Mar 22, 2017 - 10:34am PT
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 22, 2017 - 10:35am PT
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^^^ That should get a rise out of Locker!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mar 22, 2017 - 10:51am PT
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Awesome photos tarbuster. I've seen a version of that photo of Mari on Jughead (in the Vernon guide perhaps?), but can't ever remember seeing a picture of Liquid Sky. Impressive sideways runouts between the second and third pieces. Heard some good stories about hanging with that crew from Nabolsi (who I'm trying to drag out to Josh these days), but it's hard to beat photos.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 22, 2017 - 04:52pm PT
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The move up to the second bolt gets your attention, a squirrelly rock up onto a funky kind of scoop - sloper. 5.10b or so over a pretty big fall.
Mike is looking at the crux right there.
Sure is a beautiful face. Unblemished perfect granite.
Liquid Sky climbs the ramp, lower left, then goes a couple steps out right and then straight up to the second bolt. From there it traverses right, passing the bottom of the left leaning left facing corner. The crux is up at the bottom of the thinner ")" shaped left facing corner. Easier moves lead to the second belay and a third pitch to the top.
The new modern bolts should make this an attractive climb for leaders solid at the grade looking for a bit of fun.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 22, 2017 - 05:33pm PT
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Now that's a remarkable photograph.
Almost looks like a clay model!
Very useful for illustrating the path of the route.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Apr 14, 2017 - 10:10pm PT
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hey there say, ksolem...
great stuff, here, shares, etc...
wow, good for you! again, as to the guidebook, :)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 14, 2017 - 10:56pm PT
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Thanks to everyone who has come to my slideshows and to you all who have set them up. It started when my good friend Tony Yeary made the connections for me to present at some local REI stores. I had no plans to take it beyond that.
Since then many other groups have approached me about my presentation, including CalTech and the RI&M club. And the RI&M club (thanks Darren) got Touchstone and Planet Granite interested too. Then Dwight Kroll got us into MetalMark to show off his new Courtright guide and mine as well.
So this whole thing has been somewhat serendipitous, including the fact that Barbara and I have had plans for a while to visit friends and relatives in the Sacramento area which makes the bay area shows a reasonable prospect travel wise.
It feels a little weird to be doing so many such programs for a simple guide book. But I'm really having fun with them, and thanks to the contributions of some great photographers and story tellers I'm able to present an entertaining and well rounded show. The Gorge of Despair trips really add a lot too, that place is wild.
This is from Hervey Voge's 1954 Sierra Guide:
"For wild and rugged grandeur the Kings River Canyon Region of the Sierra Nevada has no peer. A mighty panorama, sweeping up the terrifying gorges past jagged spires, and culminating in towering granite peaks and domes presents itself to the adventurer."
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Matt Sarad
climber
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Apr 15, 2017 - 11:19am PT
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Call Kerry Ryan at Action Sports in Bakersfield to set up a show. Eddie Joe had one about 7 years ago.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 18, 2017 - 11:21am PT
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Thanks for the tip, Matt. The truth is that I'm getting kinda maxed out on these shows. Don't get me wrong - they're piles of fun and I'm learning a lot about presenting. This thing has snowballed, with all of these requests coming in and me saying yes to all.
I want to change my focus now, to do programs using my climbing and other things I've done to help motivate people with epilepsy to find more in life, to promote awareness of epilepsy, and to raise money for the Epilepsy Foundation.
The B'Field crew should come up to Kernville. Of course camping up there on Sat. night might be wise. We don't want lose anyone driving down that Kern Canyon road with a belly-full of Igor Unchained Stout :-)
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