Fritz Stammberger, Was He A Coo Coo Austin Powers?

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 59 of total 59 in this topic
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 23, 2017 - 08:12am PT
Someone here probably knew him.

The Rock And Ice/ Ascent article by Jeff Long is really good!
(Searching For Superman)

Driven and motivated beyond belief. First person to solo and summit 8,000 meters without supplemental oxygen, and then do the highest ski descent. Cho Oyu (1964) CONTROVERSY Alert Left sick teammates at high camp to do it. (And there was controversy about whether he actually summitted) Although I don't think Jeff Long doubts that he did.


Cho Oyu

*Almost succeeded on South Face of Makalu, in 1974, with Jeff Long and others.
*Almost had a mutiny because of his intensity and how hard he pushed.


Makalu

*He married Super-Model Janice Pennington. She was a hot shot on The Price Is Right.

*In 1975 he disappeared on Tirich Mir, on a solo expedition.


Tirch Mir

*Janice Pennington swears that he told her not to believe it if she ever heard that he was a Russian Spy. She mounted searches for him after his disappearance, and there were "disturbing clues."

*Jeff long was contacted about helping with her book. He refused.

*Jeff Long obviously thinks very highly of Fritz and didn't want to participate in what he thought was a Coo Coo book.


*But Jeff long personally saw some of Fritz's belongings in Nepal, VERY FAR from Tirich Mir.


*She's got some kind of weird Demon Eyeball thing going on....
[Click to View YouTube Video]





[Click to View YouTube Video]



If you haven't seen this article, you should buy it. 2016 Edition/234.



So what do you think Supertopo?

survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2017 - 09:00am PT
Blog/Lou Dawson

As a young man in 1970, I was with a group winter camping on Ski Hayden Peak near Aspen. We’d pitched our tent in view of a steep (45 degree), avalanche-prone headwall. We’d never considered skiing this face, it was just a place where we watched avalanches. Suddenly someone voiced a startled cry and pointed to the wall. It wasn’t a slide this time, but a skier coming down! He’d make a powerful traverse, knock off a good-sized avalanche, then turn around and make a few turns where the slide had scoured. Then he’d do it again.

We watched this display of courage and athleticism in amazement, the way Native Americans must have watched the arrival of Columbus. It was skiing completely out of our experience—transcending reality. That encounter stands as my enlightenment as a ski mountaineer — that day I became as much a glisse alpinist as a climber. The skier we watched was Fritz Stammberger.

Stammberger was an imposing man with a weight lifter’s physique, thick German accent, and the poise of a rugged individualist. He’d immigrated to the U.S. from Germany in the early 1960s, and settled in Aspen as a printer and ski instructor.

Fritz was a committed alpinist and a bold skier. In 1964 he became the man with the highest ski descent to that date when he skied from 24,000 feet on Cho Oyu in Tibet (after making the first oxygenless ascent of that 8,000-meter peak, the seventh highest mountain in the world). Unfortunately his accomplishment was marred by controversy: he skied down Cho Oyu to get help for two companions who died on the mountain, and pundits later claimed the deaths were caused by Stammberger’s neglect. History appears to exonerate Stammberger, but his mountaineering career was dogged by that initial debacle.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
Feb 23, 2017 - 09:36am PT
Several of the first ascents of 8000 m peaks - Annapurna, Nanga Parbat, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, and perhaps others - were in the 1950s, and without supplementary oxygen.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2017 - 09:43am PT
Driven and motivated beyond belief. First person to solo and summit 8,000 meters without supplemental oxygen, and then do the highest ski descent.


First to CLIMB AND SKI an 8,000 meter peak without supplemental oxygen.

Sorry Anders, I wrote it out incorrectly, even though I knew what I was SUPPOSED to say. But that's not what I was actually looking for opinions on. Whatever, herding cats, carry on. Oxygen was introduced into the Himalaya in the 1920's. I'm not going to look up every ascent without oxygen in the 50's. Feel free to be more specific. I only referred to what was in Jeff Long's article. Also note in the blog post above your post that Dawson says Fritz was the first to climb Cho Oyu without oxygen, which contradicts what you said about Cho Oyu.




More from Lou Dawson blog post:
During his years in Aspen, Stammberger spent countless days skiing mountains such as Ski Hayden Peak and Grizzly Peak (a 13,988-foot Colorado peak with a beautiful couloir dropping from the summit). His training was legendary. On all but the coldest days he would ski without gloves, and he’d walk around town with dripping snowballs clenched in his hands. Almost any winter morning, you could see Stammberger’s tall figure striding impossibly fast up the ski area on his alpine touring skis—his favorite training.

Like a Nietzschean Ubermensch, he’d wait until winter, then make first winter ascents of mountain walls as visionary and difficult as any climbs of similar size done elsewhere in the world. In 1969 he made the first winter climb of dagger-like Pyramid Peak, one of Colorado’s last fourteeners without a winter ascent. In late winter of 1972, he skied with Gordon Whitmer to the north wall of 14,130 foot Capitol Peak, where the pair made a bold directissima.

While Stammberger’s creativity was fabulous, mixed with his aesthetic and playful spirit was a healthy dose of one-upmanship. Once, he and I were having a conversation about local climbing. I had a reputation as somewhat of an accomplished rock climber, but at that time had not done much alpinism. Fritz’s assessment: “Lou, you are too much the spider,” spoken of course with his heavy German accent. In Aspen politics he soon established himself as a radical, chaining himself to a tree to prevent a building from going up, and marching in a parade with a sign reading “Public Castration for all Bycicle Thiefs [sic].”
Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
Feb 23, 2017 - 10:04am PT
Stammberger may have been the first to climb and partly ski down an 8,000 m peak, without supplementary oxygen at that. But there's no way he was first to climb an 8000 m peak without it.
BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
Feb 23, 2017 - 10:09am PT
He was also the publisher of Climbing Magazine.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2017 - 10:14am PT
Anders, I didn't say he was. I said climb and ski.

Please feel free to correctly list them. I'd be happy to read it.

And yes Bruce, he was a publisher. Thanks.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2017 - 11:51am PT
Continued from blog:

Fritz was was obsessed with trekking and climbing in the Himalayas. It appeared he realized the only way to raise money for such trips was to make a name for himself. So while his mountaineering continued as a personal endeavor, he also took an obvious turn towards self promotion. (I don’t write that in negative sense, it’s what you had to do in those days to get any sort of sponsorship.)

European extreme skiers who were creating their own legends, and Fritz no doubt noticed. Moreover, he was good friends with Aspen newspaperman Bil Dunaway, who had helped jump start modern European extreme skiing himself when, in 1953, he made the first descent of the North Face of Mount Blanc in France (along with French alpinist Lionell Terray). Dunaway had a good sense of mountaineering politics, and Stammberger’s association with Dunaway no doubt inspired what followed. Fritz could ski and climb as good as anyone, so he did.

Outside of Aspen is a double-topped fourteener called the Maroon Bells. Known as the “Deadly Bells” to local mountain rescue teams, the mountain has claimed scores of lives, and still makes casual climbers quake with fear. It’s steep, striated with relentless cliff bands, and built with rock so loose the climbing often resembles scrambling up a gravel pile. With the tight snowpack of spring, however, the Bells mutate. They’re safer and easier to climb for those knowing snowcraft, and they become skiable.
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
Feb 23, 2017 - 01:40pm PT
Pretty sure Bill Dunaway was the publisher of Climbing Mag at that time and Fritz ran Aspen Printing, the printer.

survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2017 - 02:43pm PT
In 1971 few people knew the secret of Maroon Bells snow, but Stammberger did. On June 24 he cramponed up the north face of North Maroon Peak (the north Bell), donned his planks, and skied back down. Even by today’s standards the descent wasn’t easy: Stammberger fell over a 15-foot cliff, and skied a narrow section exceeding 50 degrees. Moreover, he used no ropes and had no support team. Stammberger’s feat amazed the locals and was trumpeted in the Aspen newspaper. Yet as with the coverage of Bill Briggs’s Grand Teton ski that same spring, the Maroon Bells ski descent was too far from North American ski reality to receive much mainstream press.

After his Maroon Bells descent Stammberger endured a frustrating series of failures in the Himalayas, eventually meeting his end while solo climbing in 1975 on Tirich Mir in Pakistan. A year before he disappeared, Fritz married Janice Pennington, a former Playboy Centerfold and television starlet. Pennington became obsessed with finding Fritz. Convinced by visions and psychics that he was still alive, she enlisted the help of everyone from private investigators to Elvis Presley.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2017 - 05:45pm PT
I thought for sure if I brought a little content, with a badass skier/Himilaya guy, the beautiful wife, a mystery disappearance, the wife that believes the spy CIA/KGB thing..

Just goes to show you. People bitch up a storm about content, but then don't add.

Maybe if I add what a dickhole Trumplethinskin is, that might help. HA!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2017 - 05:57pm PT
Hmmm, I thought I cut more of an Ezra figure...


Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
Feb 23, 2017 - 05:58pm PT
Sorry, Bruce - I tried.

Didn't Stammberger disappear and Trump appear at almost the same time?
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Feb 23, 2017 - 06:05pm PT
Janice took a bad fall herself

In June 1988, a camera hit Pennington and she fell off the stage. She was unconscious and was taken to a hospital; taping of the episode resumed after 45 minutes. Pennington's resulting surgery left her with scars and one shoulder shorter than the other, so she could no longer wear swimsuits on the show

Chessler carries her book

https://www.chesslerbooks.com/item/267-husband-lover-spy-fritz-stammberger-pennington-1994-1st-ed-hc-dj.asp

Less than flattering reviews

REVIEW:

Fritz Stammberger found the perfect wife in Janice Pennington: pretty, not overly smart, unquestioning, and willing to marry a foreigner about whom she knew very little after a courtship of mere weeks...The perfect wife for a spy. Even before Pennington suspected her husband of a secret life there was plenty suspect about Stammberger. The guy liked to go off and climb big mountains solo, san oxygen, and when he couldn't get a climbing permit he'd enter sensitive, dangerous areas of the world illegally, hiking in through rough, unpatrolled country to bag peaks.


This alone would (statistics prove) have guaranteed him a life span shorter than the one he actually lived as a captured spy. Pennington's story is poorly written (she's s spokesmodel, what do you expect?) and she doesn't get it that whatever her husband was up to, whether he was a spy or not it was illegal and he WAS NOT a US citizen--being married to one does not count when it comes to risky rescue and investigations.

She barely consults her husband's country for help, preferring to spend years (during which Stammberger was apparently still alive) chasing after US intelligence officers who--obviously--couldn't and weren't required to hand over any information about a German national's activities in dicey area of the world.

What is surprising is that Pennington gets any resolution at all--really. She reminds me of Gennifer Flowers--tenacious, if a little dim. A weird story that would be much more palatable if Pennington had gotten a ghost author to help her with her 8th grade prose.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2017 - 06:05pm PT
Didn't Stammberger disappear and Trump appear at almost the same time?


Ok, that made me laugh Anders! Nice tie-in!

In fact, doesn't Trump look like an old Stammberger??


EDIT:: Thank you Jon! That's exactly what I was hoping for. Clearly Jeff Long didn't think much of helping with her book. But she has apparently convinced some people.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2017 - 06:31pm PT
My first guess was that Donini or Ament could have met him? There's some other serious geezer action around here. Who knows.
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
Feb 23, 2017 - 06:32pm PT
whatever FS was, he definitely had a fire lit under his ass
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Feb 23, 2017 - 06:36pm PT
Trash books are fun if they are transcendentally bad and tacky. Now I've got to order this and read it. I thought Jeff Long's story in Ascent was superb, and it won the Banff Award for best periodical story of the year. Some credit should also go to editor Jeff Jackson, who apparently started with a 40,000 or so word doc and whittled it down to six or seven grand - from what I understand. I have always thought Jeff was a rare talent, and his photography is also first rate and evocative.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 23, 2017 - 06:36pm PT
Klimmer told me that whole "disappeared on Tirich Mir" thing was a smokescreen to hide involvement with the Illuminati. Or the Nephilim. I forget which, but he definitely said Stammberger had been taken up to the mothership, and was now aboard the massive ark on the moon.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Feb 23, 2017 - 06:37pm PT
Wish Trump had vanished instead...

Really good stuff, Survival.

The content is not, apparently, contentious enough for this crowd, however.

Sounds like Fritz and BRONSON might get along well on a rope, arguing over whose lead it is, etc., on their historic FA of the Real-Fake Route on Cho Mogoslo, for example.

But, alas...
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Feb 23, 2017 - 06:46pm PT
8,000m peaks, a beautiful model, espionage and a "mysterious disappearance." Wow, what a story!!!!

I hate to pour cold water on all of this, but......

In 1980 I was part of a small expedition attempting a new route on the SE ridge of the East Peak of Tirich Mir, 7694m. (We were not successful.) On the approach, while hiking along the right side of one of the glaciers, we came across some human remains. Not a lot, some torn clothing and a few bones. We assumed that these were from a solo American climber (a climbing magazine editor or somesuch) who had disappeared on TM a few years earlier.

On our return to Islamabad at the end of our attempt, we reported this finding to the Pakistani authorities, before flying home. Somehow, somewhere the story got mixed up. The day before I got back the Spokane radio stations and newspapers (and likely others) were reporting that I had been killed in the Himalaya. This caused some concern.

As Mark Twain once said "Reports of my death have been greatly exaggerated." Fortunately!!!!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2017 - 06:55pm PT
Great posts you guys. Yes Largo, I agree about Jeff Long. I was hung from one end of the story to the other.

Ghost is killing it as usual with that wry grin on his mug....

hamie, wow! Glad you're not dead!
But, it couldn't have been him, he died fighting with the Mujahadeen, didn't you know?


Despite the best efforts of his friends and family, Fritz was never found. Bil Dunaway is convinced he died on Tirich Mir. Pennington went on to write a book about her search for Fritz, concluding that he’d been recruited by the CIA, then died in Afghanistan during the jihad fighting of the early eighties. Whatever the case, Stammberger’s spirit lives on to inspire North American glisse alpinists.



Straight from Janice Pennington's Wiki Page!
Her first marriage was to Glenn Jacobson, second to German mountain climber Friedrich "Fritz" Stammberger, who disappeared in Afghanistan in 1975 while mountain climbing. After years of searching, she finally discovered that Fritz was actually helping the CIA establish mountain bases along the Afghan-Pakis border, and had died during a battle with USSR forces
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 23, 2017 - 07:49pm PT
https://www.facebook.com/Fritz-Stammberger-107091146037606/

I have in hand CLIMBING #69/November-December 1981.
Fritz Stammberger is listed as: Publisher Emeritus.
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
Feb 23, 2017 - 08:52pm PT
Met him at Gretel's Restaurant on Aspen Mountain (now Bonnie's). He had skinned up. Nobody did that back then, or very few. He talked about the film he was currently editing from his Makalu expedition, "The Death Zone", I think it was called. I saw it later; remember a vivid image of a yak or similar animal being sacrificed. He was with some of his employees from his print shop. They said Fritz had a sign on the front door that said "Closed, 6-12 inches". Basically, if it was a powder day they shut down and went skiing. He was like a mountain god, Clint Eastwood with an accent. I distinctly remember him skiing away doing a perfect European wedel. He disappeared the next year on Tirich Mir.

hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Feb 23, 2017 - 09:23pm PT
Survival ^^^^^^ Thanks, me too. Likely not a unanimous sentiment.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2017 - 10:15pm PT
Tarbuster sighting!! Good score on the FB page, I have to check that out.

Crankster, you seriously met Fritz? Wow.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 23, 2017 - 10:25pm PT
he made the first descent of the North Face of Mount Blanc in France

What the hell is the "North Face of Mount Blanc"? And we need it pointed
out that it is in France?
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Feb 23, 2017 - 10:36pm PT
The true measure of how bad a book is? How many copies are available for a penny from Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/188402503X/ref=tmm_hrd_used_olp_0?ie=UTF8&condition=used&qid=1487917860&sr=1-1

BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
Feb 23, 2017 - 11:53pm PT
Fritz was made Publisher Emeritus of Climbing Magazine after he disappeared in the Himalayas.
nah000

climber
no/w/here
Feb 24, 2017 - 12:19am PT
night shift checkin' in...

just read the whole thread: good stuff survival, et al.

had never heard of this guy... i wonder if with more time and "freedom of information" whether anything more definitive will turn up regarding the spy theories... interesting if rather than being like the polish mountaineer who was suspected of spying and, iirc, was a consummate team player during the polish winter himalayan renaissance, the west's version was more of a solo character. weirdly and poetically fitting if true.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2017 - 01:53am PT
Jon, that's too funny. Dang it, now I have to get a copy. Because as Frank Zappa said "I love monster movies, and the cheaper they are, the better they are. Like being able to spot exposed wires on the flying pterodactyl or a 2x4 on the monster as they push it out of the cave. Now that's cheepness." (Frank actually spelled it that way)
Nah000, yeah it's weird, like a real Colorado Eiger Sanction thing eh? Wasn't Heinrich Harrer accused of some espionage while he was living in Tibet? And the Brits with their Great Game shenanigans against the Russians in the Himalaya? Some of that stuff was real. And Pennington's eyeballs in that E clip? Money.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 24, 2017 - 06:03am PT
I first read about Fritz in 76 or 77. May have been an article in Mountain Gazette, talking about his disappearance. IIRC, it wasn't CLIMBING. It featured a picture of him doing summer training, shirtless & in white tennis shorts, running up what looked like a ski hill.
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
Feb 24, 2017 - 06:12am PT
Survival, yeah he was a nice guy. Seemed like someone who floated above everyone else, someone who, when he entered a room, had all eyes on him. Not cocky, just super confident.
Dave Johnson

Mountain climber
Sacramento, CA
Feb 24, 2017 - 06:28am PT
I ski-bummed in Aspen '73-'76. A buddy ran the printing press for Fritz at Aspen Printing. Climbing magazine was printed there at the time ('74) and I'd earn a few bucks cash from Fritz hand-collating the pages on tables before it was folded and stapled. Fritz wasn't hard to miss around town, nor was his wife. I think she had a dress or jewelry shop.

Seemed to me Michael Kennedy was the editor, Bill Dunaway the publisher and Fritz printed Climbing, could be wrong but maybe the "publisher emeritus" was a tribute added after his death.
steve shea

climber
Feb 24, 2017 - 08:09am PT
We all knew Fritz. The ten or so climbers in Aspen in the late 60s early 70s. He would occasionally climb with one of us and those of us who were alpine skiers would see him often on Ajax Mt. Really a good guy, fit and tough. He was always training for something. He skied all winter without gloves and carried a pack every where. He would ski up Independence Pass with a heavy pack, gloveless on his rest days. We used to ski up the Pass as far as the Grotto Wall to climb on some sunny days and would often see Fritz chugging up to the top. He'd yodel up to us and be off. Independence was closed in winter.

Everybody in town knew who he was and that he took off for far away mountains in the off seasons. But what really brought it home for the town was when he skied the North Face of North Maroon Bell! Long before the French and "ski extrem". I don't know about the later stuff but he was no more coo coo than any other climber when I knew him. We skied Grizzly Peak together one spring, Fritz could've done laps on it.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2017 - 08:32am PT
Great post Steve. Coo coo was only meant for attention grabbing and tying in to the spy thing.
He did generate some controversy though with Cho Oyu and some people on Makalu. Intense people have a way with controversy.

Then things got hinky with his wife going all 007.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2017 - 09:21am PT
BJ's read the book? You just won the prestigious Supertopo member of the day award!
He maybe had a draft card, so he obviously worked for the CIA? Whew! Even though others had draft cards, and others died in the mountains, but that's not possible...
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 24, 2017 - 09:24am PT
One wasn't 'drafted' into the CIA, trust me, it's invitation only. His ex is a kook.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 24, 2017 - 09:26am PT
Weren't there rumors of an American Himalayan expedition that served as a cover for planting nuclear powered something-or-others (spy devices???) on the Chinese side of the Himalayan crest?

Late 1970s? Early 80s? CIA-sponsored?
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 24, 2017 - 09:30am PT
Ghost, that's above yer pay grade. It was certainly not even possible for Fritz given his
citizenship status.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 24, 2017 - 09:34am PT
Ghost, that's above yer pay grade. It was certainly not even possible for Fritz given his citizenship status.

Not only above my pay grade, but I'm not American and wasn't living in the US then so it's also none of my business. But it wasn't Stammberger. It was... can't remember. Famous American alpinists...

It was all over the climbing rags for a while.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 25, 2017 - 10:31am PT
Although this forum can be ankles to eyeballs in garbage ...
It's encouraging to see a substantive post like this draw out some good contributors, who would seem to be standing by in the wings, ready and willing to post up!
..............................................................

 BJ: thanks for that link to the Robert Schaller/Tom Frost story!


..............................................................

Here is the Amazon link for Takeda's An Eye at the Top of the World, sold for one penny plus shipping.
https://www.amazon.com/Eye-Top-World-Terrifying-C-I/dp/1560258454/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1487985461&sr=1-1-fkmr1&keywords=Pete+Takeda+An+eye+on+top+of+the+world

The reviews alone will make you wince! Ouch!

.............................................................

Here's the book by Robert Schaller's partner, M.S. Kohli, Spies in the Himalayas:
https://www.amazon.com/Spies-Himalayas-Missions-Perilous-Studies/dp/0700612238/ref=pd_cp_14_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=6ZNC1BWBE7THNPE7G2X6

Much more substantive and gets much better reviews.

............................................................

But back to Fritz.

Pennington's book on Stammberger, Husband, Lover, Spy, BTW, is available on Amazon for one penny + shipping, just like Pete's book!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/188402503X/sr=1-1/qid=1487917860/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=&qid=1487917860&sr=1-1


Peter Kray's book, The God of Skiing, featuring Stanmberger on the cover, (and presumably in the text ) gets almost unanimously five star reviews:

https://www.amazon.com/The-God-Skiing-Peter-Kray/dp/0692028331

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 25, 2017 - 11:14am PT
Doug Robinson has a complete original set of Mountain Gazette.
At some point I might get them on toy loan and I will do some scanning!

It was an influential read and the only time I'd encountered any reference to Tirich Mir, until Hamie's post.

..................................................................

Here's a link to Jeff Long's award-winning article on Stammberger, Searching for Superman, Rock and Ice/Ascent #234:

https://issuu.com/rock-and-ice/docs/234-s/80?ff=true&e=1647928/35236614
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Feb 25, 2017 - 12:26pm PT
Hmm? Wow!
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Feb 25, 2017 - 08:29pm PT
Tami
Yes Doug H was there. Hope you enjoyed his slide show. I never saw any of the photos, living off in the sticks. I think that Murray F took some pix of the remains, but for official reference only. The remains were "committed" to an adjacent crevasse. It seemed like a bad omen.......
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 26, 2017 - 10:10am PT
Alex Bertulis, as much as I love him, is the OG troll and he could be right! ;-)
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2017 - 05:10pm PT
Really good posts everyone!

It's always so good to see Tarbuster throw down on something.
Bargainhunter

climber
Feb 26, 2017 - 09:19pm PT
I have the book (it's unreadable), as I was interested in Tirich Mir after hiking to it's flanks alone in the fall of 1992, so I collected info. about it, maps, and expedition accounts, etc.

I lived in Pakistan at the time, was studying Urdu, and used my vacation time to explore the Hindu Kush and Himalayan foothills on my time off, in particular the area around Tirich Mir, then less so Nanga Parbat and Rakaposhi and Ultar in winter.

I hiked south from Zani An as an approach recon to Tirch Mir for future trips (great views of the Hindu Raj from that little lake). I was surprised to see there were flat spots on high ridges that had been used as anti-aircraft batteries to counter Soviet MiGs straying into Pakistani airspace during the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan from 1979-89. Seems the Russians had the tendency to “accidently” bomb Pakistani villages over the border. The Japanese did many ascents in 1960-70s in the Hindu Kush, and there are some great earlier write ups of that range in the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research’s “Mountain World” series.

Not hard to see a solo traveler getting the chop there just from the approach terrain, much less trying to summit a difficult 25k’ peak that didn’t have an easy walk-up. Ashraf Aman told me it was very cold and difficult summit, not any easier than K2 (he’s summited both).

Even when I was traveling there in 1992-93, there were occasional news reports of trekkers getting killed by zenophobic hillbillies in Northern Pakistan. A Norwegian hiker had recently been beheaded nearby. Passing north of Peshawar through Indus Kohistan to get there was sketchy depending on where you stopped. But once far out of the Northwest Frontier province and into the Northern Areas where locals spoke Khowar, it was much more mellow and friendly, as it was a different (much more Western friendly) culture. It was not a total surprise, but nonetheless terribly tragic, that Ned Gillette was killed trekking near Kohistan in a similar attack, as was the horrific 2013 Nanga Parbat basecamp mass murder of 10 climbers/porters.

I suspect there was possible Company involvement in those areas the 1970s, as I met a fellow medical resident during my training Pennsylvania in 2004-5 who was from South Waziristan, and it was clear by his stories that his father worked with the American government, which, even in the 1960s anticipated a Soviet invasion and was already planning a counter strategy. Part of the propaganda was dropping leaflets and spreading news about invaders from the north (Soviets) who were godless people (gasp!) with no morals and who planned to invade and pillage (which was true). Thus when the Soviets finally arrived, locals were already revved up and keen on exterminating them.

By the early 1990s the Soviet invasion was history, but the Stinger missiles passed out like candy canes to Afghani mujahideen weren’t. There was concern that these sophisticated missiles, supplied covertly by the US and crucial to the defeat of the Soviet invasion, might fall into the wrong hands. I personally and openly heard rumors about the need for contractors to go village to village and offer $100k/ each to buy the missiles back. But Pathans like their weapons, and even if they made less than $1 a day, they preferred having a Stinger in the footlocker of their stone hovel over those terms of largesse, thus very few Stingers were re-collected.

I suspect it much, much more likely that Fritz Stammberger might have died on the mountain or gotten killed by a local criminal than any sort of spy vs spy intrigue. As I camped alone at Zani An, two ragged looking locals traveling over the ridge approached my camp with Kalashnikovs slung over their shoulders. We were far from the nearest village, and I would have been an easy target had their intentions been criminal.

EDIT: As to the John Long article in Rock + Ice, wouldn't it be plausible that Fritz would have left a cache of stuff in Nepal if he was planning to return for another attempt in a few years, especially after dealing with the issue of excessive freight cost?
Bargainhunter

climber
Feb 27, 2017 - 12:19am PT
I thought Pete Taketa wrote some great (and hilarious) articles about some of his El Cap climbs in Climbing, with amazing photos (by Epperson?). The one on Sunkist (and also was it Aurora?) was inspirational as I was learning to aid and scratch at Valley grade Vs. Sounds like his book didn't measure up?
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Feb 27, 2017 - 01:14pm PT
Yeah, Katie is the best editor that I have worked with.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Mar 1, 2017 - 01:30pm PT
Now that we seem to have run out of things to say about Fritz, here are some items of trivia about Tirich Mir (TM).

TM at 25,300' is located in the Hindu Kush, northern Pakistan, on the left side. K2, Broad Peak etc are on the right side, in the Karakoram.

The FA was made by a Norwegian expedition in 1950, led by Arne Naess (elder).

His nephew, also named Arne Naess (younger) married Diana Ross of the Supremes. He led a successful expedition to Everest in 1985, in which Bonington summited by the original route. He (AN younger) later died in a rappelling accident in South Africa. For a long time I thought that these two were the same person!

An early "lighthearted" attempt on TM was made in 1938 by British adventurers/ travellers Miles and Beryl Smeeton. Their sirdar was Tenzing, who later said "We were climbing for pleasure." Remember when?

A repeat ascent was made by Whillans "We plodded our way to the summit".

Here's a photo of me, after an unplanned open bivy, low on TM. I'm eating an old can of fruit which we found in an abandoned Japanese food cache. Luckily I had my Swiss army knife, with the handy-dandy can opening attachment.


Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Mar 1, 2017 - 02:05pm PT
Sorry hamie but that photo makes it look like the fruit went through ya awful dang fast

Bad Tami! Go to your room!
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Mar 1, 2017 - 02:10pm PT
Tami

Yes, could have been. There were no labels, and lots of rust etc. We had to open several cans before we found something palatable and safe looking. Lots of smelly fish things. This was likely peaches. We were hungry. :)
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 1, 2017 - 05:50pm PT
Yes, the excerpt from Galen's Throne Room of the Mountain Gods, (scans posted by BG on the previous page) is a fun read.
In it, there's this non sequitur little gem (to the context of the OP), which comes from Rowell, offering his opinion concerning the AAC and potential regulation of guiding:
Ironically, the very issue that had originally raised Putnam's ire against Wick and myself was our opposition to his plan for the club to certify and regulate mountain guides. I believe that the ethos of mountaineering was basically incompatible with firm regulations.
We could have a whole thread just based on that excerpt!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 1, 2017 - 06:19pm PT
But wait, that's not all folks!

For those of you who may not have drilled down into the Fritz Stammberger Facebook page, here are three Facebook posts which I found of interest.

..........................................................

The first, an excerpt from the Aspen Times, may be referring to items which you, Hamie, or perhaps one of your compatriots came upon, which may have belonged to Fritz?
Aspen Times via Facebook, the asterisks are mine:
However, during the summer of 1978 a Canadian climber reported that a partially mummified, unclothed body had been found on the upper slopes of the mountain but could not determine the age, size, or length of time since death, and did not bring a part down for more complete identification.... The article states that during five days on the mountain, [one mountaineer] *found a pair of sunglasses, and an ice ax and a map*, which he believed might have belonged to Stammberger, in a crevasse.

.......................................................................

The second, a Facebook post from John McMurtry:
The asterisks are mine:
Fritz was my sponsor When I was a student ski racer in Aspen. I lived with him while I was attending Aspen High School. Many wonderful memories. He was a great friend, mentor and role model. He stayed with our family the night before he flew out of Denver on his last fateful trip. He forgot his passport so we had to put it on the next plane to New York. I remember asking him where was he going. *He would only say it was top secret*. Three weeks after Fritz was reported missing, Bill Dunaway, the publisher/owner of the Aspen Times, organized a volunteer search team to try to find Fritz. I believe they were able to trace him and found the last hut he stayed in. They found tracks in the snow but they disappeared. I think of Fritz often, a friend and remarkable man!

 Could it be that Fritz just liked to joke around about this top-secret stuff and his second wife, Pennington, ran with it?
 Or did he accurately confide the truth of his clandestine operations to a young John McMurtry?

....................................................................

And third, this impassioned recollection by Anton "Tony" Uhl, appearing in a post from his blog and linked to the Fritz Stammberger Facebook page. Essentially another tribute to Stammberger's avuncular nature and his propensity for mentoring, something which Jeff Long portrays quite well in his article.

Again, asterisks are mine:
When I was 10, I became good friends with one of my father’s ski instructors; Fritz Stammberger. The man was 6′-4″ and had been on the first successful expedition to climb the Himalayas without oxygen.

Running the press at age 10
He was a master printer from Germany and gave me one of my fist jobs running the Heidelberg press in his shop in the back of the Aspen Times. Nowadays it would probably be criminal on some level to put a child to work on such a dangerous machine, but that was a different era and I loved my job. It suited my character and supported my ego.
I was precocious. Fritz would challenge me but always rein me back in. He would say, “You’re not a man until you’ve climbed Mount Everest” or, “You’re not a man until you’ve seen your wife have a baby.”
It would drive my mother crazy when Fritz and I would show up at her mountain restaurant on a snowy day with no gloves and open parkas. “Real men don’t ski with gloves.” Caught up in the spirit I would say something cocky and Fritz would respond with, “What does the world hate?” He’s look me in the eye and then answer for me. “Everyone hates a smart-ass.” Then, it was only moments before we would continue our banter.
I met this gorgeous Canadian model in Dad’s ski school and introduced her to Fritz. They were soon married and pregnant. *They named their son after me*. I was privy to Diane stark naked with her beautiful huge belly the morning Fritz rushed her off to the hospital to give birth.
When I had arrived at their apartment that morning the story of the day (there always was one!) was how their wiener dog, Lumpy, had drawn blood when he jumped up and bit Fritz in the wiener in the shower.
There was nothing weird about my visits to Fritz and Diane’s. As I said, it was a different era. People were straight-forward, practical, respectful and responsible. There was no question of what was appropriate as propriety was an unspoken law that everyone seemed to understand implicitly. Naked pregnant bellies and wiener dogs were just part of life. These were the days when, if you slipped on ice in a ski resort the response was, “Weren’t you paying attention?” not, “Who are you going to sue?”

Fritz Stammberger
Fritz and Diane moved into the house across the alley from our house. There was no question that any 11-year old kid who could run a Heidelberg press could easily be trusted to take care of a few month old infant, metal safety pins and all. Besides, if there was any problem, my parents were just across the alley and the town itself was only a few blocks long. Fritz and Diane wouldn’t be far.
As Anton grew older I was a favorite babysitter. Fritz would always say, “You should be a psychiatrist.” This was his commentary on my diplomacy and the ease with which I could affect the trusting responses of children and adults alike. I would swell with pride and make some comment. “What does everybody hate?” Fritz would say.
But being a smart-ass was an accusation that would continue to follow me throughout my life.
Self-confidence was something I had learned from Fritz and my hard-working but life-loving parents. It amplified the voice of my muse. It led me to take unreasonable chances filled with faith and confidence that the voice of the universe wouldn’t lie to me. It was the voice that led me to so many great successes in my life and that helped me make lemonade, as they say, when it seemed I’d been dealt a lemon.
Self-confidence is not arrogance, though this would often be the accusation from friends, family or companions who felt the ease and serendipity in my life was somehow unjust as they struggled along.
Truth be told, I was struggling daily in my own ways and it didn’t take many missteps to see that the voice of the universe was my best and most reliable guide and friend.
Recently I was at a party at a blacksmith’s studio and ran into a friend I hadn’t seen or heard from in over 40 years. After a few minutes of enthusiastic recollections, I was genuinely surprised when he commented, “I was always amazed by your focus and determination to go after what you wanted.”
No. I wasn’t being a smart-ass. I was simply over-achieving in response to my feeling of never measuring up or being enough.
I suppose I could thank my over-achieving Mom for this, with many of the same feelings herself, but it wasn’t until I was in my mid-thirties in Hollywood when my close friend, Ray Underwood, would ask me a question that would change my life.
“You are so brilliant and talented. Why are you so full of self-sabotage?”
It was the first time I had heard the term. It wasn’t the last time I would reflect on those words. I would hear it another way some 20 years later. “Why would you put your best effort into running a marathon and then quit just short of the finish line?”
I had some work to do.
From this blog post:
https://antonuhl.wordpress.com/2009/06/26/youre-not-a-man/


....................................................................

https://www.facebook.com/pg/Fritz-Stammberger-107091146037606/posts/?ref=page_internal
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
Mar 1, 2017 - 06:29pm PT
Great stuff, Tarbuster. That machine, in their shop next to Carl's Phamacy, was loud as hell. Bet that kid/man still has ink on his fingers.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2017 - 06:32pm PT
Tarbuster owns it once again...
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2017 - 11:12pm PT
Tarbuster, thank you for the amazing conversation tonight. You are still one of the great minds of climbing, just like I remember from 35 years ago.
travingo

Mountain climber
Hawaii, Maui, Kula
Nov 15, 2017 - 11:56pm PT
I know his son very we'll, he is also a badass and adrenaline junkie. A book could be written about Anton's life that would be as entertaining as the story about his father.

Fritz's son looks like his twin. The legend lives on!
Messages 1 - 59 of total 59 in this topic
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta