OSHA fines Exum after death, water-knot probe

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Anguish

Mountain climber
Jackson Hole Wyo.
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 21, 2017 - 07:42am PT
OSHA safety rules extend to unconventional workplaces, like the mountains, which the recreation industry is beginning to comprehend. In a probe of this tragic accident, Teton rangers re-publish two important papers showing how a water knot in 9/16-inch webbing will fail with repeated loading/unloading, in perhaps as few as 100 cycles.

http://www.wyofile.com/mountain-guide-death-leads-exum-fine/

zip

Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
Feb 21, 2017 - 07:52am PT
Thanks for posting
WBraun

climber
Feb 21, 2017 - 08:26am PT
That's weird, .... as anyone that's used 9/16 tubular webbing knows the water knot is completely unreliable and comes apart so easily.

It's a known notorious problem with 9/16 tubular webbing especially aid climbers know this as the 9/16 tubular tie-offs come apart just hanging on the rack while climbing.

OSHA now getting involved in the climbing world?

Yowza, so scary .........
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 21, 2017 - 08:33am PT
Kind of hard to believe big guide services don't already have documented gear inspection protocols in place already.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Feb 21, 2017 - 10:09am PT
...as anyone that's used 9/16 tubular webbing knows the water knot is completely unreliable and comes apart so easily.

As Werner knows, the original quick draws were invented by Yosemite climbers and were made up with 9/16" tubular webbing. I had a bunch of them, joined with water knots, and had the same experience: even when bounce-tightened, the knots eventually loosened and started "eating" their tails. So I switched to bounce-tightened double-fisherman's knots. They take up a little more space lengthwise and don't look as pretty, but they are absolutely stable.

Nowadays, most slings are sewn. It is sad that some of the old-school knowledge about things like this has been lost.
fear

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Feb 21, 2017 - 10:11am PT
We're from the government, we're here to help.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Feb 21, 2017 - 10:31am PT
as anyone that's used 9/16 tubular webbing knows the water knot is completely unreliable and comes apart so easily.

Yes completely. I have two alpine runners tied with water knots that I take on long routes, I often use these to trade out ancient stiff faded sling at rappel stations. But it's my habit when I plan to use these to retie and retighten the knots before leaving the ground. Every time. They tend to loosen up over time just taking the quickdraw rack in and out of the gear box!
Matt's

climber
Feb 21, 2017 - 10:37am PT
I've never heard of a guide carry 8 feet of tubular webbing with them on a climb (what the guide used to tether himself at the belay station)-- is this a normal thing?

best,
matt
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Feb 21, 2017 - 10:48am PT
OSHA now getting involved in the climbing world?

Yowza, so scary .........


they wouldn't have to if companies would follow safe basic procedures on their own. However
It's a known notorious problem with 9/16 tubular webbing especially aid climbers know this as the 9/16 tubular tie-offs come apart just hanging on the rack while climbing.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Feb 21, 2017 - 10:51am PT
Seems a guy like this probably knew, but maybe he's too young to remember the accidents and the discussions - like from like the 80's - and the danger just wasn't as ingrained and obvious. Guides like versatility, and a knotted sling is indeed more versatile. Guide types often seem to like a little bit of an old school look to their kit as well...
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
Feb 21, 2017 - 11:19am PT
I've noticed and commented a couple times when an old dad walked by with 1/2" tails on their shoulder sligs. So far all I got back was sass. They can accept the consequences, right?

This guy also fails for trusting his life to a single non-redundant sling. Should have had a second backup sling. That is really the worst offense.
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Feb 21, 2017 - 11:57am PT
Can we talk about the EDK, please?

Bend over while the government conducts a probe, for your safety.
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Feb 21, 2017 - 12:07pm PT
so what is the preferred knot for a "wrap-three pull-two" style tree anchor?
WBraun

climber
Feb 21, 2017 - 12:11pm PT
A water knot works fine for a "wrap-three pull-two" style tree anchor.

You just have to make sure your knots are tied right and have sufficient tails .....

looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Feb 21, 2017 - 12:20pm PT
Is slippage a known problem with 1" also, or just narrower webbing?
WBraun

climber
Feb 21, 2017 - 12:28pm PT
9/16" water knot is the biggest culprit when not loaded.

There's really no slippage.

It's that the 9/16" water knot becomes loose when unloaded, unattended and bouncing around in the pack and/or on your rack.

YOSAR uses 1" tubular webbing but the ends are always stored untied.

That way to use 1" tubular webbing one needs to make the knots and simultaneously the knot gets inspected every time.
clode

Trad climber
portland, or
Feb 21, 2017 - 12:32pm PT
When I started climbing in the early 70's, the Water Knot or Ring Bend was one of the first knots I learned how to tie. I never had any problems with them. Yeah, after a while they would tend to loosen a bit, but I always checked my knots (you should too, whichever ones you use), and would just re-dress them, you know, pulling on all four "corners" of the knot, several times, until it was tight again, and off I'd go. The webbing size made no difference, they all worked fine, as long as I paid attention to them.

Then along came the "Grapevine" knot, or Fisherman's Bend. It looked really ugly in webbing, but not so bad in perlon. Took longer to tie, took more material to tie, but did have a bit more security to it, in terms of not coming undone as easily as the Ring Bend.

To each his/her own.
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Feb 21, 2017 - 12:32pm PT
Thanks Werner. All my loose webbing is 1" and I keep it untied, same with the webbing we use in my fire department, so fortunately I've been accidentally protected from my ignorance on this.
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Feb 21, 2017 - 01:14pm PT

Good luck at being able to quickly untie a cinched water knot.
crøtch

climber
Feb 21, 2017 - 01:33pm PT
"This guy also fails for trusting his life to a single non-redundant sling. Should have had a second backup sling."

Amen. Many otherwise fatal errors are recoverable if redundancy is in place.
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Feb 21, 2017 - 01:39pm PT
THE TWO STEP PROGRAM


Step One: Tie a water knot loop with 2" tails

Step Two: Sew the tails to the loop




I got so freaked out partway up a wall, I tied an extra harness donut with a water knot, and sewed the tails down by hand. That was right after Todd Skinner fell rapping off the Leaning Tower when his donut broke.

A decade later, my wall harness has two water knot donuts with sewn tails.







EDIT:

OSHA is part of the Department of Labor

"OSHA" now stands for "Oh Sh!t, Here's Acosta"

rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Feb 21, 2017 - 01:56pm PT
This guy also fails for trusting his life to a single non-redundant sling. Should have had a second backup sling. That is really the worst offense.

"Offense?" Really? Who uses two tethers?
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
Feb 21, 2017 - 02:52pm PT
Who uses 2 tethers?! I do.

At stations I will usually be in with the rope and a tether (arrangement varies if bigwall vs. trad). The rope is my real life support, and I tie it with some "moving around" slack for hauling and such, the tether is what is holding my weight and is adjusted for comfort.

For rappels I'll grab a sling to clip between my belay loop and the anchors for a second tether, nothing more than that. 2 full strength connections before I go off-rappel. Always. I only trust my harness and rope to be single point failures, everything else MUST be redundant.
WBraun

climber
Feb 21, 2017 - 03:09pm PT
OSHA shouldn't be fining climbers.

OSHA ain't climbers.

They are clueless to the dynamic world of climbing environments.

OSHA is a static robot ......
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Feb 21, 2017 - 04:31pm PT
This is one of the reasons why I never use tied 9/16" tie-offs. For tying off pitons, etc., the strength of 1/2" is sufficient, makes for a smaller and tighter clove-hitch around the piton, and the knot to form the loop becomes pebble-hard and basically impossible to untie once weighted. No auto-untying problem with 1/2".

A double-fisherman's knot is worse than large and ugly, to my mind. The entire "assembly" forming such a tie-off is just too bulky in every respect to properly tie-off a piton-tip or piton-stack. So, it's a water-knot or nothing, making as small a loop as possible. But, then, that really doesn't work for 9/16". So....

I've just never found the use-case for 9/16" that was not more than offset by this known problem. For me it's either 1/2" or straight to 1", neither of which auto-untie once the knot is properly tightened.
fear

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Feb 21, 2017 - 05:31pm PT
OSHA shouldn't be fining climbers.

OSHA ain't climbers.

They are clueless to the dynamic world of climbing environments.

OSHA is a static robot ......

This x 100

There is no way to legislate climbing as "safe", let alone alpine climbing. You head up then you take the risks if you're guided or knot.

The Disneyland televised approach to Everest and the like may be contributing to this false sense of security.



JLP

Social climber
The internet
Feb 21, 2017 - 05:47pm PT
I'm okay with the OSHA thing, surprised by it actually.

Climbers, especially guides, tend to have these egos - they think they know everything. AMGA is a joke in their attempt to temper and regulate basically just that. OSHA fills a gap. It is indeed a dangerous job that could also kill innocent clients. It doesn't matter what OSHA understands of the sport - they're simply an org that won't participate in nor accept BS.

They probably came in, asked a few very simple questions, came to a very clear and obvious conclusion, handed out the fine and left - perfect.
Dickly

Social climber
KY
Feb 21, 2017 - 05:50pm PT
"who uses two tethers"- me most of the time. of course I dont own a store bought PAS
WBraun

climber
Feb 21, 2017 - 05:56pm PT
It doesn't matter what OSHA understands of the sport - they're simply an org that won't participate in nor accept BS.


You just made that up in your head somewhere and spit it out believing that bullsh!t.

The OSHA dude was sitting next to us and said he knows everything about climbing and that he/they are "THE" experts.

Straight from his mouth.

The dude weighed about 340 pounds 5 feet 8 inches with a beer gut you wouldn't believe ......
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Feb 21, 2017 - 06:12pm PT
The dude weighed about 340 pounds 5 feet 8 inches with a beer gut you wouldn't believe ......
Did you disagree with his findings?

Lots of "climbing" to be done out there in the workplace, maybe he was a star in his prime, OSHA's best...

So funny, you have the exact ego and bias I speak of. Even funnier it's some guy you think is a slob and so wrong about everything is in their slapping your asses around. Like I said, it all sounds just perfect to me.
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Feb 21, 2017 - 06:13pm PT
^^^perfect dude for bounce testing WB.
WBraun

climber
Feb 21, 2017 - 06:14pm PT
I told you make sh!t up in your head all the time.

I never said a word to this guy.

He didn't even know I was climber .......
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Feb 21, 2017 - 06:18pm PT
I put a wrap of duct tape around the ends on both sides of the knot. I don't like the way the knot comes apart all the time if you don't!

I don't use many tie-offs on pitons any more. More common applications for me might be hook slings, and cleaning loops on top of big Peckers.*

*Also clip-in loops when nailed upwards into horizontal placements!
gunsmoke

Mountain climber
Clackamas, Oregon
Feb 21, 2017 - 07:49pm PT
I'm okay with the OSHA thing...

Put me down for NOT okay with the OSHA thing. OSHA found that the employer “shall be responsible to assure its adequacy, including proper maintenance [of the knot].” In other words, the employer is responsible to ensure that the guide's knots are properly tied! Unbelievable, IMHO. Perhaps at the start of each climb the guide can take pics of all of his gear, including each knot, and send them to company admin to verify compliance before leaving the TH (for any OSHA employees following this, TH stands for trailhead). What's next? Are indoor climbing gyms obligated to make sure that patrons' knots are properly tied?
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Feb 21, 2017 - 07:59pm PT
The only relavent OSHA standards I see are Fall Prevention https://www.osha.gov/stopfalls/index.html

Did find this gem, obviously written by a real expert https://www.trails.com/facts_6309_osha-climbing-regulations.html

Fall Protection
Something every instructor must go over with his clients is protection from a possible fall. This includes proper landing technique, avalanche awareness and how to break a fall.

Climbing Aids
An instructor or manager has the responsibility to provide adequate climbing aids to clients. This may include harnesses, clips and hooks needed for a safe climb.

Loads
Loads and weight-bearing boundaries should be addressed before a climb. This includes any backpack or carry-on pack the climber may have.

Body Belts
Body belts and harness adjustment are essential to a successful climb. Making sure that each climber has been shown how to properly use belts, harnesses and ropes is part of OSHA's safety standards.

Instructional Data
Providing instructional data such as video guides, booklets, or hands-on demonstrations of how to safely climb rocks, mountains, ice or other terrain is necessary. Another important part of OSHA guidelines is demonstrating accident scenarios and reviewing safety and first aid concerns related to each type of climb.
gunsmoke

Mountain climber
Clackamas, Oregon
Feb 21, 2017 - 08:06pm PT
All of those things noted by Jon are in the category of training. No problem with that. Note that training is very different from performance. The employer can be required to only employ guides with appropriate training. But how can the employer guarantee that every action of the employee (e.g., tying a failsafe knot) will be correct?
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
SLO, Ca
Feb 21, 2017 - 08:12pm PT
Typically worker safety regs require a quality assurance program. For climbing guides it could be as simple as telling employees to check their knots, maintain industry standards, etc. The employer can't check every knot but it can tell employees that is the expectation. In any case OSHA (and its state agency counterparts) insert themselves into any employment sitch so climbing guide services are not exempt just cause it's climbing. This event is unusual because the guide / employee died.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Feb 21, 2017 - 08:13pm PT
Well, if folks didn't make a business and and industry out of climbing - particularly with gyms - then workplace and OSHA regulations wouldn't be necessary. Want to make our sport a commercial industry? Well, whathtef*#kdidyouexpect...
moacman

Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
Feb 21, 2017 - 08:44pm PT
Used the knot for slings since 1965, taped them like P T P Pete, put a date on them, inspected them before climbing and would never ever trust one to hang from. Safety First........

Stevo
Spiny Norman

Social climber
Boring, Oregon
Feb 21, 2017 - 09:36pm PT
OSHA doesn't care about your avocation.

You want to climb as a business, with paying customers? Obey the law like any other business -- arborists, high rise window washers, timber fallers, contractors, flight instructors, lifeguards, etc...

Especially given that the clients in this incident seem to have been minors not adults.
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Feb 21, 2017 - 09:48pm PT
the strength of 1/2" is sufficient

Yeah, that's right.

Anybody who has read Royal Robbins' Advance Rockcraft knows that Sheridan Anderson's cartoon showing a tied-off baby angle was tied off with 1/2" tubular webbing, not 9/16" webbing. DUH.



Who here is old enough to remember that fat and stiff 9/16" tubular webbing was called "Super Tape"?

Back In The Day, slack and wimpy 1/2" was always the material of choice for tie-offs and Hero Loops (younguns: don't ask).

When the chips are down and the bets are for real, even dental floss would seem strong enough. Using Super Tape to tie off a pin that might zip your azz down the entire pitch if you sneezed was never a reasonable option.

Soft and supple 1/2" tubular webbing always held a water knot better than Super Tape. Super Tape was intended to be lighter than 1", but just as strong. The downside was Super Tape liked to Go Its Own Way, so to speak.


For a similar reason, 1/2" webbing is what you used to doctor up your gray Jumars, wrapping the entire mechanism's frame, top to bottom, in case the bottom eye blew out. If 1/2" webbing wasn't strong enough for the shock-load you might put on your Jumars, well, you had much worse potential problems facing you.



I still have some of my first 1/2" tie-off loops (gray) from 1974, which I keep to remind me that I'm not getting old; the same rules still apply.

I don't use those vintage gray loops. I just keep them in my pack-rat stash to help me remember that which is important to remember.

Edge

Trad climber
Betwixt and Between Nederland & Boulder, CO
Feb 21, 2017 - 09:56pm PT
Who here is old enough to remember that fat and stiff 9/16" tubular webbing was called "Super Tape"?
In the late 70's, early 80's, I used Super Tape with a double fishermans knot for all of my single and double over-the-shoulder slings, of which I carried a half dozen or more. It was an improvement over the 1" tubular that I used prior.
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Feb 21, 2017 - 10:09pm PT
^^^^^^^

I concur. Slings made from Super Tape had definite advantages over 1", and not the least being because it was stiffer, thinner and wouldn't monkey-f*#k you as much when clipping in when desperate times didn't want desperate measures.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Feb 21, 2017 - 10:59pm PT
wouldn't monkey-f*#k you as much

Classic, Tom. LOL

I always felt that if I was using tie-offs, I was already pretty monkey-f*#ked, and, yeah, dental-floss was probably strong enough (and would exert less leverage on the placement). Never liked 9/16 in any context.

Of course, the context of this thread was quite different, as the 9/16 was not being used as a tie-off. It's been said dozens of times on this thread already but bears repeating: Check yer knots often! Then again! Then don't ever hang your life on any one thing. (Of course, we've all done so, at least "just for a minute.")

OSHA's involvement strikes me as really odd. Yes, the death was in a "commercial" context. But I think that Gunsmoke is correct in noting that OSHA can't pretend that the guide wasn't adequately trained, and OSHA surely can't believe that the employer should be "present" and checking every connection throughout a climb or descent.

This tragedy belongs in the "sh|t happens" column, as for most of us some "sh|t happening" is what's ultimately going to get us. Most of us are not gonna die in our sleep. And when you "prevent" one "preventable cause of death," another's gonna getcha. Good luck paying attention to and dodging all the bullets.

Yes, this one could have been prevented, and we all remind ourselves with knowing nods: Check yer knots. But nothing OSHA does is going to keep it from happening again (even commercially), and the fine was of purely symbolic "value." Climbing (even commercially) is inherently dangerous, and nothing OSHA does is going to change that.

Next it will be OSHA claiming that the employer should have properly inspected and cleaned the route, so that rockfall couldn't have killed anybody. Calling a climbing route a "work environment" that can in principle be "managed" is a quite ridiculous stretch, imo.
perswig

climber
Feb 21, 2017 - 11:36pm PT
Damn, that 15C is a blast from the past. You dudes are old.


Long live reverse-Polish.
Dale
nah000

climber
no/w/here
Feb 21, 2017 - 11:58pm PT
ok all you naysayers... in case you didn't read the article, here's osha's recommendation: the employer should inspect the employees personally provided safety gear once a year.

i get the slippery slope argument... and i agree, from first hand experience that safety organizations can be rigidly and absurdly myopic and so it's a bit frightening to see them enter this space. i also think the $7500 fine, regarding still emergent rules in a previously relatively overlooked industry, is horse shIt.

but at the end of the day, when i ignore those two parts and look at the actual precedent, i don't have an issue...

want to run a guiding business employing other guides? sorry, but i don't see why you shouldn't have to play the same game that every other business employing people in dangerous fields has to play... ultimately, if done with realism, it is for the betterment of the industry as a whole as it creates more professionalism, a leveller playing field and a safer environment for all involved.

the key is implementing rules with realism.

and saying an employer is responsible to inspect their employee provided safety gear once a year is, imo, both realistic and positive.



so... if anybody is interested in trying to convince me otherwise, and i do have a mind that is open: what am i missing with regards to the potential problems with this specific rule?
Tobia

Social climber
Denial
Feb 22, 2017 - 04:04am PT
Damn, that 15C is a blast from the past. You dudes are old.

i noticed that myself, but thought it was a 12c. (The 15c is a scientific calculator, and the 12c is a financial calculator.) The 12c has been in production since 1981. Too bad they don't make cell phones as hardy as these machines.

fear

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Feb 22, 2017 - 05:28am PT
want to run a guiding business employing other guides? sorry, but i don't see why you shouldn't have to play the same game that every other business employing people in dangerous fields has to play... ultimately, if done with realism, it is for the betterment of the industry as a whole as it creates more professionalism, a leveller playing field and a safer environment for all involved.

Cost is why. Climbing is inherently risky and the tools/methods employed would never, ever meet current industrial standards.

If OSHA were to really get involved they'd kill every guiding business out there.

I can see the gov't paperwork now... Imagine the federal gov't trying to create "standards" documents for alpine climbing. Total nightmare.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Feb 22, 2017 - 05:53am PT
If OSHA were to really get involved they'd kill every guiding business out there.

Yer point?
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Feb 22, 2017 - 10:42am PT
saying an employer is responsible to inspect their employee provided safety gear once a year is, imo, both realistic and positive.

Agreed.

But that would almost certainly have had zero effect on this situation.

And, as you said, the fine was uncalled for.

This is more government intervention, trying to control that which in principle can't be controlled.

Oh, and, of course, extracting money in the process.
Branscomb

Trad climber
Lander, WY
Feb 22, 2017 - 10:55am PT
Quite the unfortunate accident, for sure. But there's something about OSHA getting into climbing that bugs the hell outta me, even when it's protecting guided clients.

All part of the uptight, upright society that wants a gold plated guarantee on everything and insurance to the hilt.

Well, the news is: there are no guarantees.
August West

Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
Feb 22, 2017 - 11:08am PT
Damn, that 15C is a blast from the past. You dudes are old.

I got my 11C (also scientific, but not quite as fancy as 15C) in the early 80's. It still hangs out in the living room and I still occasionally use it. (For something more than just holding a book open.)

Insert "they don't make 'em like they used to" comment.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Feb 22, 2017 - 11:09am PT
I think there's a good question in here... how many guide services hire climbers with a lengthy resume, without actually testing their rope management and safety practices? If you only hire a certified guide then you know they have at least learned the right stuff. Do all official guide services only hire guides who are certified?

If not, do they have processes to actually see how safe the people are other than word of mouth or a short verbal interview? Seems like a good practice would be to do a test climb with an employee observer acting as a client, while the prospective guide did their thing.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Feb 22, 2017 - 11:26am PT
I have one of those 15c's sitting right here on my desk (sorry for thread drift), love that reverse Polish. I used to program that thing instead of using the mainframe (lol, you young guys know what a mainframe is?)
fear

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Feb 22, 2017 - 11:27am PT
Got two mainframe windows open right now....

They're far from dead.
casconed

Trad climber
Feb 22, 2017 - 11:32am PT
Good luck at being able to quickly untie a cinched water knot.

It is quite easy - just roll it between your hands like you are making a snake with play-doh.

Hallmarks of a good knot - easy to tie, easy to untie, and won't come undone under load
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 22, 2017 - 11:39am PT
OSHA = Outrageously Stoopid Harrassment Administration

The US tort system is far more efficient.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Feb 22, 2017 - 11:51am PT
The US tort system is far more efficient.

Precisely. Well said.
WBraun

climber
Feb 22, 2017 - 01:37pm PT
OSHA were dickheads for fining EXUM.

healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Feb 22, 2017 - 02:13pm PT
The US tort system is far more efficient.

Actually it isn't and never has been relative to workplace safety. If it did, then the atrocious workplaces, worker injury and death rates of the past wouldn't have existed. OSHA, whatever its failings, has made for far safer workplaces across the nation.

The usual fringe-right, hate-all-things-guberment nonsense.
conman

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Feb 22, 2017 - 02:19pm PT
I'll use a water knot when tying two ropes together on long rappels but always back up both sides with a triple fisherman.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Feb 22, 2017 - 02:21pm PT
If it did, then the atrocious workplaces, worker injury and death rates of the past wouldn't have existed.

And OSHA eliminated such things, due to its wonderful oversight?

And OSHA's wonderful oversight could have kept this incident from happening?

And the fine is going to make guiding services really shape up to keep such things from happening again?

The usual fringe-right, hate-all-things-guberment nonsense.

The usual fringe-left, government-does-all-things-well nonsense.

:-)
August West

Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
Feb 22, 2017 - 03:35pm PT
I used to program that thing instead of using the mainframe (lol, you young guys know what a mainframe is?)

Not a mainframe, but, I used to program a Motorola 6809 in assembly language...


Rick Krause

Trad climber
Madras, Or
Feb 24, 2017 - 09:23am PT
OSHA is only there because the mountain guiding community and individuals are cutting corners.

For $12.00 this person would most likely still be alive. Anyone that is not using sewn slings for PERSONAL safety are just fools.
jonnyrig

climber
Feb 24, 2017 - 09:49am PT

Feb 22, 2017 - 02:21pm PT
If it did, then the atrocious workplaces, worker injury and death rates of the past wouldn't have existed.

And OSHA eliminated such things, due to its wonderful oversight?

And OSHA's wonderful oversight could have kept this incident from happening?

And the fine is going to make guiding services really shape up to keep such things from happening again?

The usual fringe-right, hate-all-things-guberment nonsense.

The usual fringe-left, government-does-all-things-well nonsense.

Actually, OSHA and other supposedly over-restrictive government agencies have actually reduced the accidental injury/death rate significantly over the past century or so. Employers like to cut corners, and so do employees. You teach shop class? Ever try to convince a bunch of fresh-out-of-high school students that safety glasses are actually necessary while using air tools or grinders?

People think they're invincible. Employers think the extra time/cost for basic safety equipment and procedures is prohibitively expensive. Everybody points the finger at someone else when an accident happens, then shrugs it off and says "shit happens, couldn't have been prevented" or something like, well it all boils down to personal responsibility.

Like, there's nothing the guide service could have or should have done in terms of requiring specific gear or procedures. And for certain OSHA should have NO OVERSIGHT WHATSOEVER in the climbing community. Despite the fact that OSHA's core mission is to protect the safety and health of American workers.

This was the guide's primary place of employment. It was a job. That mandates OSHA oversight. I don't know that they really need to implement a requirement of training under the bloodborne pathogens standards; but that really depends on if the guide's duties include first-responder duties or not. If so, then it applies.

As to the annual inspection of gear and a responsibility to ensure that employee-provided personal gear is safe, that's also a general requirement throughout the rest of the general workforce as well. You can't bring your personal skill saw to a job site and use it with a f*#ked up cord and no guard, for example.

Yeah, government overreaches sometimes. Other times they are the only way employers will actually institute safe practices. Haven't you heard the anecdotes about roofers that are fired before they hit the ground for falling off the roof?
Spiny Norman

Social climber
Boring, Oregon
Feb 24, 2017 - 09:52am PT
And OSHA eliminated such things, due to its wonderful oversight?

Workplaces overall are unquestionably safer than they were 100 or 50 years ago. And a major reason for that is, in fact, regulation of workplace safety.

I don't have to enjoy the OSHA/EHS inspections of my research laboratory, or think that their concerns are always prioritized as I would prefer, to understand that that is so.

And OSHA's wonderful oversight could have kept this incident from happening?

And the fine is going to make guiding services really shape up to keep such things from happening again?

Open question. Solid bet that Exum changes its practices and other guiding services take notice.

And again: note that the clients — unnecessarily placed in jeopardy above and beyond that from the climb itself, and who had to watch a man die for no good reason — were not adults.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 24, 2017 - 10:06am PT
Assertions of OSHA's credit for improving workplace safety are just that: assertions.
Y'all really need to read up on tort development history.

While OSHA may think Exum was responsible for this the victim's heirs would likely go home
empty handed:

"If the victim has contributed to causing their own harm through negligent or irresponsible actions, the damages may be reduced or eliminated entirely."

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tort
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
SLO, Ca
Feb 24, 2017 - 10:13am PT
Um, the tort system has existed for 100s of years and looks at the legal concept of negligence after an accident and has had very little impact on the granular requirements of workplace safety in different industries. In any event, most workers I know would prefer not to be mangled or killed in the first place which is the point of worker safety regulations. Nothing is perfect, but work is much safer because of OSHA.

Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 24, 2017 - 10:48am PT
ontheedge, while OSHA has certainly done some good how do you measure its efficacy
vs that of the combined effects of tort actions AND the insurance industry? Why do you
think that most of the wife's colleagues say they would never go into OB again if they had
a do-over?
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
SLO, Ca
Feb 24, 2017 - 11:20am PT
Dunno about OBs (though I've heard the same thing), but remember that whatever insurance companies might require of them is likely the result of patient lawsuits as opposed to employee accidents in the delivery room. Also, while litigation (and the subsequent response by insurance companies) is common in some industries it is rare in others. Lastly, many worker injuries are handled through the workers comp system and are not pursued as a tort claim.

Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Feb 24, 2017 - 12:48pm PT
Does regulation make work safer? Compare California (highly regulated) and Texas (less regulated)

http://www.ocregister.com/articles/texas-353624-california-percent.html

According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, there were 3,849 workplace deaths in Texas from 2003 through 2010 – the years available in the online database. That was 10 percent higher than the 3,589 workers who died at work in California in the same period.

That's not a negligible difference when you note that California – despite all its faults – has a far larger workforce than Texas. (Even if in this period, Texas jobs grew 10 percent as California payrolls shrank by 3 percent!)

So when you look at workplace deaths vs. the BLS count of all non-farm workers by state, Texas had 4.79 fatalities per 100,000 workers in 2003-2008 vs. California's 3.07. Basically, Texas workers died on the job at roughly a 50 percent faster pace than Californians.

O.K. Not all jobs are the same in terms of risks.

So I then looked at a particularly dangerous slice of the workplace – the so-called "goods producing" jobs. You know, where folks actually make things vs. pushing papers or providing services.

In Texas, in 2003-10, there were 1,780 deaths in goods-producing jobs – or 46 percent of the state's total job-related fatalities in the period. That was 32 percent higher than California job deaths in the same period.

But, believe it or not, California has more goods-producing workers than Texas – despite the many manufacturing challenges in the Golden State that sliced California good-producing work by 23 percent in this period. (Meanwhile, Texas job count was flat in 2003-10!)

As for good-producing, job-related deaths -- per equal number of employees, Texas workers are almost twice as likely to get killed than a Californian.

Could Texas goods-producing jobs themselves be more dangerous than the ones in California? So I took one more mathematical step – comparing what's seemingly a rather ubiquitous yet dangerous trade: construction work.

From 2003 to 2010, 999 Texas construction workers died on the job – a quarter of the state's job fatalities and 42 percent more than California.

ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Feb 24, 2017 - 02:31pm PT
got to control for California being populated by Californians and Texas by Texans, eh
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Feb 24, 2017 - 04:00pm PT
Acckkkk, so we've devolved into yet another thread of non-statisticians quoting thin-slice statistics to "make" a case of their own design. Reilly is asking the right questions, but in response, we just get more thin-slice and highly interpreted statistics.

Ah, the Nanny State! Ever growing, ever invading, ever seeking to control that which in principle can't be controlled.

BTW, when I was a project manager for a residential construction company in California in the 80's you certainly COULD bring your own Skilsaw onto the job site, and many carpenters did have guards wired back. My own Skilsaw still has its guard wired back. I personally watched one carpenter lay his thigh wide open with his own saw, due to the guard being wired back. He got his Workman's Comp. End of story.

Try as you might to "oversee" everything at the federal level, sh|t's still gonna happen. End of story.
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Feb 24, 2017 - 05:19pm PT
Still got all yer finger tips MB? Sure, ill advised practices are going to happen. Who needs wire? a wedged 16d was faster. save the wire for disabling the safety on the nail gun. Noobs do that stuff cuz they think it is cool. Go ahead and attack the facts with hyperbole and the standard rant, but the truth is, regulation works.
c wilmot

climber
Feb 24, 2017 - 05:35pm PT
My coworker cut himself to the point of emergency surgery with the guard wired open on his skil saw. I never did understand the reasons for keeping it wired open
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Feb 24, 2017 - 05:39pm PT
I never did understand the reasons for keeping it wired open

when you are trimming a very small amount of material the guard makes it difficult. I would just use a nail to hold the guard up when I needed to do that, then removed it. Having it up all the time was a hassle because you could not set the saw down without worrying about the blade doing damage.
WBraun

climber
Feb 24, 2017 - 05:41pm PT
I took my skillsaw guard off the whole time for years.

Only put it back on for the 2 hours when OSHA came around then took it back off.

Forman always told us when OSHA was coming for inspection and said put the guards on until they leave ......
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Feb 24, 2017 - 05:52pm PT
the truth is, regulation works.

You say so. Thus it must be so.

Depends on what "works" means to you.

The feds say that the "war on drugs" also "works." Do you believe that?

Hey, just LOOK at all the drugs they've kept off the streets. Thousands of tons of the stuff! So, right? It "works"?

Yeah right. Carry on.
WBraun

climber
Feb 24, 2017 - 06:01pm PT
the "war on drugs" also "works."

Meanwhile, the CIA is trafficking drugs all over the USA and the planet to fund their criminal black ops everywhere they go ....
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Feb 24, 2017 - 06:03pm PT
when you are trimming a very small amount of material the guard makes it difficult.

Every cut is more difficult with the guard down. Even large amounts of material, particularly when you're doing bunches of quick cut-off work that still needs to be spot-on, having the guard up is dramatically more efficient and faster.

I would just use a nail to hold the guard up when I needed to do that, then removed it.

They guys I heard about that got hurt, and the one guy I saw, played this sort of game. With that approach, you have to remember each time, "Is my guard up or down?" Sometimes you think the saw is safe, and other times you pay closer attention.

Having it up all the time was a hassle because you could not set the saw down without worrying about the blade doing damage.

No, that was the point! With the guard wired up, you were committed. You KNEW that that was a live blade! You always treated the saw like a loaded gun and always unconsciously knew which way the blade was pointing. Thus, even setting it down was an unconscious act of being aware. No need for there to be any damage.

I can't count the number of custom homes I built and oversaw being built. Just last year I sold the custom home I personally built and lived in. How many hundreds of thousands of saw cuts over those years? Always with the same Skilsaw, always with the same wire from decades ago holding the blade back. Never even a close-call.

Of course, that's just one bit of anecdotal evidence. Not worth much. But, you know what, I didn't need OSHA telling me how to be safe. And out of hundreds of guys I personally worked with, and the almost universal disregard for having the guards working as designed, I didn't even hear of but a few Skilsaw accidents.

And guys cut off their thumbs with the chop-saws... even with the guards functioning as designed.

OSHA can't fix stupid, and I didn't observe where it even reduced the incidence of injuries.

Some workplaces are just inherently dangerous, like the one that is the subject of this thread. OSHA's involvement (and fine) is almost certainly going to have zero effect on "workplace" safety.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Feb 24, 2017 - 06:04pm PT
Meanwhile, the CIA is trafficking drugs all over the USA and the planet to fund their criminal black ops everywhere they go

Very good point!

The government is about power and control. It's not about helping us, protecting us, or in any way serving us.

Those days are LONG past!
jonnyrig

climber
Feb 24, 2017 - 06:07pm PT
I don't say so, the reduction in accidental death and injury rates say so. But then i guess alternate facts are all the rage.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Feb 24, 2017 - 06:13pm PT
the reduction in accidental death and injury rates say so

Only because you conveniently ignore Reilly's very insightful questions and observations from up-thread.

This is a classic case of "lies, damned lies, and statistics." You see in the stats exactly what you're looking for. So, of course they "say" exactly what you say that they say.
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Feb 24, 2017 - 06:26pm PT
You offer nothing but your own experience. You must think that you are the center of the universe if you think all regulation must be based on your personal experiences. Give us some facts, not some spray.

hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Feb 24, 2017 - 06:32pm PT
Well I didn't know this about 9/16" so I appreciate everyone's posts and I don't mess with my Milwaukee guard ever. Two houses and two cabins built with it and I can still count to ten
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Feb 24, 2017 - 06:38pm PT
You must think that you are the center of the universe

Pffftttt....

Really? That's where we are now in this "discussion"?

Did you not read what I said about my one case being merely anecdotal?

And, "facts"? My very point is that there are not FACTS to be had here, regardless of how you want to spin statistics.

The difference between you and me is that in the absence of facts, you still want more governmental control. BECAUSE I believe that the facts are precious few, far between, and subject to a LOT of interpretation, I do NOT want yet more governmental control.

How about the government put its mega-resources into doing those few things it was actually constitutionally duty-bound to DO? Such as, oh, I don't know, exercising some really strong anti-trust regulation with TEETH in it?

How about, oh, I don't know, taking that OSHA guy's salary and putting it toward somebody with a brain enough to INSTANTLY recognize that a Comcast/Time-Warner merger is OBVIOUSLY a bad deal for the PUBLIC (who the government is ostensibly in business to protect).

See, the government spends so much time and resources doing that which it SHOULDN'T that it doesn't spend time and resources to do what it is in place to actually do.

It is a zero-sum game. There is not enough money to go around. So EVERY dollar the feds spend "ensuring" that a climbing knot is properly tied (which it really can't in-principle do) is a dollar that the feds do NOT spend in, say, enforcing the do-not-call list (which is really an interstate commerce issue and which the violation of has become EPIC).

There are literally countless ways in which the government could be making my life better by protecting my basic rights, and these it does NOT do. Instead, it hassles a climbing guide service in the very way that will do no good. Instead it wages a "war on drugs" at my expense that does no good. Instead it... well, you get the idea. It wastes my money on things it is NOT in business to do, and the net effect is that it does not do what it was actually put in place TO do.
Spiny Norman

Social climber
Boring, Oregon
Feb 24, 2017 - 06:47pm PT
Abstract
Controversy surrounds occupational health and safety regulators, with some observers claiming that workplace regulations damage firms’ competitiveness and destroy jobs and others arguing that they make workplaces safer at little cost to employers and employees. We analyzed a natural field experiment to examine how workplace safety inspections affected injury rates and other outcomes. We compared 409 randomly inspected establishments in California with 409 matched-control establishments that were eligible, but not chosen, for inspection. Compared with controls, randomly inspected employers experienced a 9.4% decline in injury rates (95% confidence interval = –0.177 to –0.021) and a 26% reduction in injury cost (95% confidence interval = –0.513 to –0.083). We find no evidence that these improvements came at the expense of employment, sales, credit ratings, or firm survival.

http://science.sciencemag.org/content/336/6083/907

madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Feb 24, 2017 - 07:00pm PT
Thanks, Spiny. Worthy effort. Seriously.

More to say than can possibly fit in a forum post. I would merely ask: What was the cost of inspections/enforcement to have (if it is to be believed) a 9% reduction in total injuries (including, one would presume, carpel tunnel syndrome and tendentious, cases of which number in the tens of thousands according to OSHA's stats)?

It's become a tragic axiom: Whatever the government declares "war" on is going to cost us TONS of money to basically no avail.

http://www.drugpolicy.org/wasted-tax-dollars

We want BANG for our buck! We're not getting it.

How many millions/billions do you want to spend to have (if it is really to be believed) a 9% reduction in, say, carpel tunnel syndrome?

And enforcing climbing knots!?! Nahhhh. Please! Let's not go there!

But we already have. The slippery slope reigns supreme.
jonnyrig

climber
Feb 24, 2017 - 07:04pm PT
I'm saying OSHA has had an impact. You seem to be saying they're worthless. I did NOT say there weren't other intervening factors that contribute. So, come on and post up your evidence that shows the lack of impact that OSHA had head over the decades since they came about.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Feb 24, 2017 - 07:16pm PT
I'm saying OSHA has had an impact. You seem to be saying they're worthless.

No, I'm saying that like virtually all of the things the government is doing that it has no business doing, we're not getting the bang for the buck we have every right to expect.

What the government does is take up some role that it shouldn't. Then it has to form an agency, adding to the already absurd bureaucracy that burdens we the taxpayers. Then that agency insulates itself from any meaningful oversight, not the least of which is because the new agency is immediately politicized, so that Congress can't even try to exercise oversight without that process itself being politicized. So, once in place, the new agency just EXISTS, sucks off of us, delivers VERY little in comparison to what we spend for it, and becomes basically untouchable.

I'm not saying that OSHA has done or does NO good. I'm saying that it's just another federal agency doing what it was none of the feds' business to do, that they do badly, and that costs us a TON of money to do badly.

This present thread is a perfect case-study in OSHA getting involved in a "workplace" that is ludicrous. And the very argument that "it IS a 'workplace,' so it DOES fall under OSHA's jurisdiction" is what really reveals just HOW ludicrous the whole thing has become!

But that's what the feds do. They inject themselves where they don't belong, charge us for the "privilege," and then have NO common-sense or awareness of proportion. We then pay for SILLY enforcement, and we get precious little or no real benefit.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
Feb 24, 2017 - 09:22pm PT
sufficient tails
Due diligence -- same way a pilot goes thru a check-list and walk around inspection.
nah000

climber
no/w/here
Feb 24, 2017 - 09:34pm PT
interesting debate.

while i still contend osha has a place with regards to large corporate operations [read up on the lack of worker protections during the building of the burj khalifa if you disagree], i have to admit i'm coming around... this is in large part due to the absurdity regarding fining a relatively small business $7500 for breaking a "rule" that didn't explicitly exist prior to its enforcement.

osha or ohs ain't all bad... but it contextually ain't all great either.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
SLO, Ca
Feb 24, 2017 - 09:40pm PT
While for some ranting about the federal government is always cathartic it was a Wyoming state agency that fined Exum.
steve s

Trad climber
eldo
Feb 24, 2017 - 09:56pm PT
We use to pin our guards up on our skil saws with a shim for many years. Never had a problem, but then we realized it wasn't worth it. One of the main reasons for pinning the guard up and other sketchy tactics is its faster. But just because it's faster doesn't make it better. The few times OSHA would come by we would just drop our bags and drive down the street and leave the contractor to deal.
As for the water knot have used them for years with no problems. It sucks that OSHA got involved in the climbing accident. Peace .
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
Feb 24, 2017 - 11:57pm PT
Willy: What the hell you need ball bearings for?

Fletch: Awww, come on guys, it's so simple. Maybe you need a refresher course.
Crazy Bat

Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
Feb 25, 2017 - 01:34am PT
When I forst started using a skill saw, they had not invented guards. I was taught to never put it down until the blade fully stoped. Having the guard meant I could put it down before the blade stopped spinning and amde it faster for me. I was not doing fine carpentry.

BTW the only people I have seen injured by skill saws were not the people who were using one with the guard retracted or missing, but their buddies who were working nearby
WBraun

climber
Feb 25, 2017 - 08:55am PT
There are certain cuts done in repetition during a job that is basically the same every time.

The saw guard gets caught in the piece being cut in those certain cuts.

This why the guard is taken off, and not because we're against OSHA.

But then dumbsh!t OSHA shows up with their robotic consciousness and says you can't do that.

They think everyone is as dumbsh!t like them (OSHA) and not aware of the dangers of some non-standard operating procedures according to time and circumstances.

How did this turn into a skill saw thread? LOL

When I was doing high angle rigging in remote places on this planet there was no safety period.

We were are own safety.

No OSHA ..... thank god those dumb ass fukers were not there otherwise would have never even gotten started doing anything.

The dangers were extremely high on those jobs and you could easily get killed if let your concentration wander off.

sempervirens

climber
Feb 25, 2017 - 09:32am PT
Madbolt, you do bring up some worthy things to consider re OSHA and safety. But then you add illogical nonsense like this gem:

Ah, the Nanny State! Ever growing, ever invading, ever seeking to control that which in principle can't be controlled.

Try as you might to "oversee" everything at the federal level, sh|t's still gonna happen. End of story.

So can see the lack of logic there? "Yes that data could be thin-slicing or cherry picking but you refute it based on nothing but this rhetoric and your admittedly anecdotal evidence. "Non-statisticians"? that is also a logical fallacy since it's simply an ad hominem attack. Is says nothing about the topic at hand. Then you decide to dis-believe the stats. based on... your belief in disbelieving?

I agree with you about strengthening and/or enforcing the anti-trust law in US. But those against such action use the same "nanny state" rhetoric argument against anti-trust law. Don't fall for that.

Through all this internet arguing, especially in this era, it's important to consider logic.
sempervirens

climber
Feb 25, 2017 - 09:53am PT
t's become a tragic axiom: Whatever the government declares "war" on is going to cost us TONS of money to basically no avail.


How many millions/billions do you want to spend to have (if it is really to be believed) a 9% reduction in, say, carpel tunnel syndrome?

But we already have. The slippery slope reigns supreme.

That "tragic axiom" is meaningless rhetoric 'cause you give no evidence and then conclude ... "no avail". So are you saying there should be no gov. safety regulation because it's expensive and "... to no avail"? "Declaring war" might be a bit of an exaggeration, eh. ".... a complete and total ban on all water knots until we can find out what the hell is going on", ha, ha, ha.

"if it is to be believed". Meaningless. You give no reason to believe or dis-believe it, so better to leave that stuff out if you're really interested in making an argument.

Slippery slope, another logical fallacy. Google can explain it better than I can.
Spiny Norman

Social climber
Boring, Oregon
Feb 25, 2017 - 11:50am PT
Safety glasses w/disk grinder = treason.
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
Feb 25, 2017 - 12:33pm PT
My sawzall didn't come with a guard...Will i be fined...?
Scole

Trad climber
Zapopan
Mar 2, 2017 - 11:15am PT
I think the problem is AMGA, not OSHA. Pre-AMGA, guides were hired on merit, with personal recommendation being far more important that a resume' on fancy paper or a certificate.

I started guiding teaching the dulfersitz rappel,then we moved to the carabiner break followed by figure 8s. The key to rappel safety when guiding is to always back the client up. Redundancy is how you stay alive in climbing, whether its personal or guided.This not only applies to clients; it applies to the guide too.

The idea that a "certified guide" is superior to one without a paper is ludicrous. In the last 10 years of my 30+ years of guiding I have seen plenty of AMGA puppies that had essentially zero climbing skills. Maybe they knew a few cool knots, and had a set of rules to follow, but as a former employer was fond of saying "Rules are for fools".

Real guides have a lifetime of climbing experience and, while they may, or may not,have any certificates, they have proven their skills many times over. The idea that OSHA can oversee guiding is based on a set of standardized protocols, but climbing and mountaineering involve constantly changing situations.

All that being said: Gary was a good guy, a strong climber and a good guide.

fear

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Mar 2, 2017 - 11:33am PT
I agree...

OSHA and the related nanny-state tentacles do have a place in common construction/workplace environments where standards and protocols are more easily adapted. After all things NEED to be created in society and a limited framework is often helpful.

OSHA involved in purely recreational and known dangerous pursuits with a million unaccountable and changing variables which can kill you is folly.
Rick Krause

Trad climber
Madras, Or
Mar 2, 2017 - 04:04pm PT
We can all agree that the decisions we make are directly related to our training or lack of training we have. There is really are no work place accidents just a series of events that lead to an incident.

Over the past few years’ three mountain guides have died. I do not think they were out side of their scope of training. Other words they had received training for what they were doing, but that training lead them to the decisions they made, which lead to their deaths. So we must look at their training, it obviously failed them.

On this last incident a professional thinks that an Alpine Bod harness and a tied 7/16 web with a knot in it was the best safety equipment made that will get him home back to his family? I blame his training or lack of training on personal protective systems. For $8.00 you can purchase sewn sling. He can’t afford a sewn sling? This entire incident was filled with bad decisions. From not bringing equipment for everyone, to turning down equipment offered. To picking bad personal protective equipment. With just one change at any step this guy would have gone home to his family.

Over the past few years I have been looking to the rope access people to see what they are doing. They have a lot of cool toys. As a company that employees guides, I see all of the rest of the rope access industry are using class 3 harnesses. You have to admit will give your employee the maximum protection in a fall. So why dose the mountain guiding industry use recreational harnesses for personal protection? Don’t they care about their employee safety?

I have a class 3 harness, I use for rescue and bolting new routes. But I do admit I still use a class 1 harness. My choice for my safety is the Metolius Supper Tech. My Metolius might be heavy but I can clip 10kn onto any part.

The bottom line is a guide only have one job that is to come home to his family, and your personal safety should be number one, buy whatever equipment is necessary and if your training is not teaching you that you should find some other training. AMGA or any group certificate will not save you only your training.

I do not want to read about any more young guides dying this year. Three is too many.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Mar 8, 2017 - 11:13pm PT
I'm not joining the conversation over there

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/siebert-research---must-see-informaton-on-the-dangers-of-water-knots-and-retiring-gear/112526101__2#a_112540049
[Click to View YouTube Video]




I hope No one responding needs to be told this:


This is the result of the modern function of having reduced, up-graded, modernized the methods that people (now) follow when learning.
WHEN MANY OF US STARTED WE LEARNED THREE THINGS:
check your knots
Check Your Knots
CHECK -ALL-YOUR.KNOTS

It was the name of the game Constant vigilance! Focus on everything .
There were pre sown runners way back, but we learned from the best, who had experience.
Especially when things get 'hairy' - a stuck rope, dropped shoe, there are hundreds of things
that happen.


Die Wirtschaft von -Welt ist verloren, wenn die Sicherheit nicht überflüssig ist.


The economy of -swift- is lost if safety is not redundant.


&


Niemand sollte - "eine Situation arbeiten" - aus, nur einen Knoten.


No One should be - 'working a situation' - off of Only One Knot.


The Numbers game, ? $$/ 2guides = less per guide than if 1guide, the number, of Guide to / climber ratio per objective seems most in question in the mountains. While heavy traffic and
Repetitive ascents of the route builds confidence it's double edge; complacency lurks, and with out redundant systems the results can be tragic.


always check , and double check everythin. . . . . ( omitted 'g' for the giggles!)

Under no circumstances should one lower out on a single 'improvised' tether.

A piece of, suitably strength rated, pre-tied, in a loop of known length :
A 'Cordellet'. made of round Cord, ( used as a P.A.S.) AND SOME OTHER TIE'D POINT ,
AND THE ROPE . . . .

Never a tied runner of shoulder-length - thinner than one inch tubular,
Never! . . .( this, gets forgotten?)

again I think it is a function of short cutting in the learning Process.
We were more in-touch with specialization , it was not all 'just' gear.
Each piece made up a whole system. We had differnt Racks for differnt challenges.
Wide rack, aid rack, guide rack, fun free rack, hard rack etc.

When we Mixed aid and free kits as some become more seasoned we saw it
led to complacency . . . .Complacency is a killer.
Learn how to properly tie knots, how to check, before you weight them.
Clove Hitches, , .
The rope is your Life line. Stay tied into it & use it !
Redundant systems start at ones life link, double it up.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Mar 10, 2017 - 06:04pm PT
There's one axiom in failure analysis: there is seldom only one failure point. Operator error is considered a failure point.

The report lists "contributing factors" in order (usually of importance) 1: Equipment failure, 2: operator error, 3: fall
This is one thing that bugs me about most failure reports: the result is often listed with the contributing factors.....which of course is silly. (yeah, the fall was a contributing factor to Falk's death but it still bugs me).
If we do a Root Cause Analysis (sort of the ultimate failure analysis) #2 operator error is the root cause.

It's entirely likely that Gary had checked his knot when he tied it. This shows a situation where checking yourself can be insufficient. e.g. when you've got several people and one is responsible for them all.
He was preparing to safeguard the students with a belay rope as they rappelled one-at-a-time off a roughly 120-foot drop slightly below the summit.

Most failures actually contain more than a single cause (hence the search for the root cause). So now we're short one piece of important gear.
But because of a last-minute re-arrangement of climbing teams, Falk found himself one ATC short.
Did this "cause" the accident? No but it likely contributed to some confusion and a loss of attention.

So now we've got one client down the rappel with three more clients to go.
From above, Falk tried to flip the jammed rope and ATC to free them.
. This is the Owen Chimney which has a sloping fairly smooth slab at the top, with some loose rock. Trying to free a stuck rope in the chimney would have required going right to the edge. Although not stated in the linked report, Falk likely moved forward close to the rim. Also not stated in the report is weather conditions. I'm surprised that haste wasn't listed as a contributing cause.
So the root cause was operator error: not checking his belay before weighting it at the edge.

My condolences to Falk's family and the Exum guides.

As for that wicked, nasty, anti free market OSHA: As someone else said, when you're doing something for $$ they've got a legal interest in the result. In this case they did a full failure analysis, Exum have improved their safety training and added formal checklists.

When I started my mechanical engineering career (1972) at least 1/3 of my older colleagues were missing part of a finger, including my department head and a very good friend of mine, both very bright men. Then OSHA came along. I don't know any engineers who started after OSHA who are missing parts of their bodies from work accidents. In the group of about 15 that I managed, we only had one serious accident in 5 years post OSHA: A guy disabled the OSHA mandated safeties in an injection molding machine and smashed his hand in it breaking most of the bones. Operator error (DOH!)
The only other accident was in the machine shop I managed when a guy was pressing a hardened dowel pin into a mold, the pin split and a piece hit him in the eye. Well......it wasn't his eye, it was his OSHA mandated safety glasses. No harm done.
I've got no complaints about OSHA.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 10, 2017 - 07:41pm PT
This is the Owen Chimney which has a sloping fairly smooth slab at the top, with some loose rock. Trying to free a stuck rope in the chimney would have required going right to the edge. Although not stated in the linked report, Falk likely moved forward close to the rim. Also not stated in the report is weather conditions. I'm surprised that haste wasn't listed as a contributing cause.

He wasn't at/in the Owen Chimney. He was at the top of the standard rap, which is just past the Catwalk (east). The Owen Chimney is above the west end of the Catwalk.

Also...this was the weather that day:


Tragic deal.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Mar 11, 2017 - 04:53am PT
I am a carpenter. we do tons of stupid dangerous sh#t, I work with lots of rough tough egos. we joke about osha when we do stupid sh#t but without osha half of us would be dead or maimed....

one thing I noticed about the guides in the tetons is that they had taylored their rope lengths to the routes they were working on. This guide had likly been at that rap stations dozens or possibly hundreds of times. he possibly had a home made teather system that allowed him to manage that station. Something like the Petzl connect would probobly be very usefull for a guide and safer than a home made rig.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Mar 11, 2017 - 01:58pm PT
Brian, thanks for the clarification and the weather photo.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 11, 2017 - 03:13pm PT
Again, if you're stupid enough to commercialize an activity you love and take responsibility for the lives of clueless people you've convinced to pay you to keep them safe doing something inherently unsafe - and then you screwup - it begs the question on both sides: just what the f*#k did you expect? A world run amok with clueless guides 'certified' (now there's a euphemism filled with hope) by other guides who figured out how to make money from climbers as well as civilians and you expect no intervention or oversight? Now that is the very definition of stupid.

P.S. Oh, in case you missed the drift - I have zero respect for guiding and particularly the abject nonsense it's evolved into today.
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