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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2017 - 09:46pm PT
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^^^^^^
Don't show that stuff to me, it makes me cry when I think of poor souls actually using that on a wall.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Feb 23, 2017 - 10:04pm PT
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The knotted webbing and 2 failed buckles tells an epic bad night of horrors someone endured. I think I paid $300 or so, and in retrospect I probably got ripped off almost as bad as the original owner. But who doesn't need third expedition fly in their collection I figured? I need to fix up the suspension and pass it along to the next sucker.
The haulbag (haulBAD perhaps?) is garbage can sized. As best I can tell the intent was to just shove the fly in next to the ledge, and hope you didn't drop it while fishing out the ledge itself on fair weather nights. Vinyl reinforcement is on the INSIDE of the haulbag. WTF?!? Can't help thinking it was done for fashion sense. It reeks of a good backpack designer being handed couple bad pictures and being told to "Make one of these, but better, and by Monday."
The fly is REALLY nice, with mesh pockets for stowing stuff, but made out of VERY heavy materials (aluminized too). Weirdly it has big tigh-down loops out of 1.5" webbing that are about 12" long, and sprouting out of odd locations (like halfway down the wall/door side seam).
Whole rig weighs in at 28.5 lbs for ledge/fly/haulbag. Truly a masterpiece.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Feb 23, 2017 - 10:39pm PT
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But my A5 single is just hitting its prime?
Heh
Looks great John, glad you are back in the mix.
Cheers
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John Mac
Trad climber
Breckenridge, CO
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Feb 24, 2017 - 07:43am PT
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John, What are your plans at Mt Buffalo. Are you going to do a route on the North Wall? Ozymandias? Must still be pretty warm down there.
Moof ... I thought the BD ledge was heavy!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 24, 2017 - 09:53am PT
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OK, guys - time to get on to John's next innovation. I am not sure above if anyone has guessed, or possibly even seen, but time to put it out there: the corners.
So ..... what has John done with the corners, that is absolutely different from every portaledge ever made? [so far as I am aware]
What kind of corners are hidden in the photo of the frame that Marek is attempting to deflect, without any apparent success?
John has spoken of the horrific "open corner" design, and its inherent stability. I have always hated that open corner design, because I have never found it any easier to assemble or take apart a portaledge that has open corners.
John has also revealed that he is not using block corners either! So what has he done?
Blue noticed and commented on the suspension system, which is barely visible in the photo above his post on the previous page. Have a look at the suspension system, and then ask yourself, why does it avoid the corners?
The magic number is no longer six, it is four. Why?
Finally, when is a corner NOT a corner?
If you are feeling flummoxed, then perhaps you need to ask Wolfman Jack. The Wolfman already revealed the truth a few pages above. [HINT]
[I used to be a Wolfman, but I'm all right now-ooooooooooooo.....]
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John Mac
Trad climber
Breckenridge, CO
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Feb 24, 2017 - 02:04pm PT
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That's what I'm thinking as well. No joins on the corners.
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DrBen
Trad climber
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Feb 24, 2017 - 02:15pm PT
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Looking forward to seeing these new Portaledges. If I'm reading it correctly you are saying they'll be ready in September John?
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2017 - 02:23pm PT
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We are making a limited first batch of 28 ledges for September, 2017 shipments. These will be sold at a significant discount to get us started. We're hoping to sell out of Batch #1! Then major production planned for 2018 delivery.
Make sure to sign up for the Kickstarter newsletter (Kickstarter goes live on March 1) to get one of the 2017 batch:
http://eepurl.com/cDn3kT
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 25, 2017 - 07:05pm PT
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Loved that video John and shows the evolution of your diverse interesting life.
I really liked the part where you are the school teacher.
And not only being just some one trick pony ........
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nah000
climber
no/w/here
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Feb 26, 2017 - 07:46am PT
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i'm also guessing the corners are continuos curved pipe and the connections are at the centre of the straight lengths of pipe and consist of smaller diameter pipe slipping into shortish sections of larger diameter pipe. gets rid of the heavy block corners and at the same time the smaller pipe slipping into a larger pipe negates the need for spreader bars.
if correct, it is a simplistically and beautifully elegant solution as all design should be on at least some level.
regardless, lookin' forward to the big reveal of all the innovations...
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Feb 26, 2017 - 08:14am PT
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I'm not an engineer.
I'll never use a portaledge.
But what a cool thread!
I remember reading articles about your wall climbs ( a long time ago!!).
Best of luck to you!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 26, 2017 - 10:14am PT
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Great interview!
All the best!
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2017 - 02:24am PT
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Hi Werner--No, haven't seen that stuff. A polymer of some sort. There are a lot of strong fibres being created today. I'm suspicious though that they don't give more technical details. Though perhaps I go overboard in that regard! ;)
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 27, 2017 - 07:55am PT
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I was suspicious too.
The stuff is not UV resistant. It deteriorates in the sun.
It has some cool uses for it.
It will be expensive? They are saying one dollar per foot ......
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 27, 2017 - 08:47am PT
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Yup. My concern too is resistance to UV in the sun.
Typically I flag my ledge from the bottom of the wall to the top. And on a south facing crag like El Cap, that's a lot of photons!
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Feb 27, 2017 - 07:28pm PT
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Typically I flag my ledge from the bottom of the wall to the top. And on a south facing crag like El Cap, that's a lot of photons!
Hey, what about a solar collector fly? Then you could watch netflixs and run a 12v icechest😜
Or, for shitz and giggles. Why the need for a ledge haulbag. Maybe jus a slot in the pig. Or if it's getting flagged anyway, how about the ledge "haulbag/container" multi use as a pooptube? After summit toast'sss.... go bury the shite and stow the ledge😘
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