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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 22, 2017 - 10:28am PT
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<<<THIS EVENT HAS BEEN POSTPONED UNTIL 2018>>>
I am pleased to announce the fifth annual Granitica Festival happening September 2-3, 2017 10am to 6pm at the Museum of Northern Arizona in Flagstaff located at 3101 North Fort Valley Road 86001. The theme for 2017 is: The Soft Parade- Sedona Climbing. We will be examining the history of climbing in the Sedona area from the classic Mace to the modern day.
A list of tentative speakers includes; Scott Baxter, Scott Sellers, Ross Hardwick, Geoff Parker, Paul Davidson, Larry Coats, Tim Coats, Jim Haisley, Steve Grossman, Stan Mish, Glenn Rink, John Burcham and Jeff Snyder with many to be announced as the route list comes together.
We are also planning to host a Sindicato Granitica banquet on Labor Day at a location to be determined. Come and meet the climbers who have made the amazing Arizona climbing scene what it is today.
Tickets for the two day Festival will be available for $25 plus tax through the Flagstaff Climbing Center. Once they are set up for ticket sales to begin I will announce it on this thread so please don't contact them before that time. seating is limited so make sure to buy your tickets ahead of the event.
If you would like to contribute to the Festival and/or Banquet please contact me through this forum. The good folks at Kahtoola, Rock and Ice and Bluewater are already on board as formal sponsors with more to be listed as the preparations move forward.
<<<THIS FESTIVAL HAS BEEN POSTPONED UNTIL NEXT YEAR>>>
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Jan 22, 2017 - 11:35am PT
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Awesome! I hope I'm in town to see this event.
I'd recommend John Burcham as one of the speakers because he had a tremendous impact on the scene in Sedona. He probably has a website with contact info. David Bloom is another significant pioneer.
Looking forward to it.
Albert
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2017 - 12:13pm PT
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Greg- thanks for the praise, brother!
These festivals are almost entirely my work organizationally with the support of my wife all along and certainly come showtime when she handles the technical aspects of the presentations.
I do have other help depending on the location and demands of the particular program such as Ramona and Jim Howard at the Oakdale Festivals. The folks that really help me make these events work out are the paying customers and sponsors along with some volunteer help. Travel and accommodations add up along with hall rental fees so these shows depend on solid turnout which has been a real issue along the way.
The programs are always amazing and I record the content but they are really intended to benefit the climbing community and foster climbing culture by allowing folks from several generations an opportunity to meet one another.
Fostering climbing culture is a vital part of the NACHA mission.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2017 - 10:12am PT
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How did you like Dresdoom?
Paul, Larry and company are pretty proud of that one.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Jan 23, 2017 - 10:31am PT
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Steve puts on a great program, and the museum is a very nice venue in Flagstaff. I am going to try to schedule a Grand Canyon trip around the Sedona festival.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Jan 23, 2017 - 12:22pm PT
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Dresdoom is a striking line in a beautiful setting but is a serious climb without much protection. Also a lot of the sandstone in Oak Creek Canyon is on the softer side! I got on it after working through many Sedona classics- it was a goal of mine for a long time (along with Earth Angel and the Mushroom). It went well for us, but was nevertheless very exciting!
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Jan 23, 2017 - 01:52pm PT
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Looks more like the 'Power To The People' to me.....
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Scott McNamara
climber
Tucson, Arizona
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Jan 23, 2017 - 02:59pm PT
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Looking forward to it.
Thanks, Steve and Mimi for all your work!
Scott Mc
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Jan 23, 2017 - 03:58pm PT
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I've heard of at least 1 person who took an 80 foot fall on Dresdoom.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 23, 2017 - 06:09pm PT
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Hey Steve!
Thanks for setting this up again this year - Erik & I have always wanted to attend a Sindicato Granitica event.
Erik says he will be there, but unfortunately that weekend is one of the busiest weekends at the Bristlecone Pine VC, so I won't be able to make the trip.
Meh.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 23, 2017 - 07:08pm PT
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Should be another great show! Look forward to it!
Thanks for crankin' it out Steve and Mimi!
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Jan 25, 2017 - 06:42pm PT
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Soft rock bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2017 - 11:40am PT
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Best not to fall on Dresdoom! YOW!
The location for the Labor Day Sindicato Granitica Banquet has been secured not far from Flagstaff at the O'Leary campground near Sunset Crater.
Sorry that you are booked up Skip. We'll miss you.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Jan 29, 2017 - 06:28am PT
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Doug coming up the last pitch of the Mushroom (second ascent???).
Notes from a try to free the original route. Later on we put up a new route on the othe side,
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2017 - 09:35am PT
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I was looking at the Wolfe-Bloom guide and somehow Wind, Sand and Stars, a Molly Higgins and Larry Bruce mixed route on the Mace, was overlooked. Has anyone heard about a repeat ascent or free ascent of this line? Folks used to scratch route info an a flake of sandstone and leave it at the base, BITD.
I think it went at 5.10d A3.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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I looked in the 1st edition of "A Cheap Way to Die" and Wind, Sand and Stars on the Mace is listed as 5.11, with the FA by T&L Coates and B. Bensman. Circa 1980s.
I wonder how often that route gets climbed!! I know someone who got on it inadvertently but I can't remember if they finished (they were capable of climbing 5.11 in Sedona) or retreated and did the original route (which is what they were intending to do).
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Chossthumper
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Stories of sand and lack of stone.
Is there anything better than climbing in Sedona?
My guess is most people would conclude everything is better.
See you all soon enough. Bring two helmets.
Jeff
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DMabe
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Dresdoom ridge is indeed a striking feature but lets call a spade a spade. Its pretty much a solo with imaginary protection making for a proud, coveted, and bold ascent, albeit borderline foolish. Helmets off to The Godfathers for conceiving the line and those who have sacked up to climb it without falling!
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RicoSuave
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Agree, DMabe.
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giegs
climber
Flagstaff, Arizona
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Do you guys need overflow parking? My office is just down the way at 2900 Ft Valley and I'm happy to help.
-Colin Giegs
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Jim Scott and I on the "beach." It's a huge ledge about 6 pitches up on which you can totally unrope and chillax. I learned recently that Jim passed away in his sleep this summer. I think this is the only picture I have of us together :(
Take pictures of your friends!!!!
FA, Humongous Fungus on the Mushroom.
One of us jugging back to a high point...
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Sure wish I'd taken more photos back in the day. I believe I was in on about 9 first ascents of spires in Sedona. I thought the rock was relatively good compared to some of the crappy sandstone around these parts.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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On the Edge: where were your pictures when they were doing the guidebook?
MisterE on Reef Shark:
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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I think I mailed (as in USPS mail!) David a couple of topos for the guidebook. Probably had no way to send pics and more likely didn't even think of sending a few old butt shots. That climb looks nice!
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Feb 17, 2017 - 04:30pm PT
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Semi-soft rock bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2017 - 06:58pm PT
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I am happy to add John Burcham to the speakers roster.
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Feb 22, 2017 - 03:44pm PT
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John is one of the most important figures in the modernization of Sedona climbing and a fantastic photographer to boot. This should be good.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Feb 22, 2017 - 06:25pm PT
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Very cool!!!
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Mar 28, 2017 - 08:00pm PT
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Bump for sand in the ears and eyes, The uncertainty of an unknown and unclimbed little tower. And for wondering whether the line will go.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2017 - 08:35pm PT
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Ontheedgeandscaredtodeath- since the ST email doesn't seem to be working very well, please email me at scgrossman@msn.com. I would like you to consider speaking at this event.
Cheers!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2017 - 06:20pm PT
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I just added Scott Sellers to the list. He made the first ascents of Princess Spire, West Face route, and Tisha Spire, North Face route, BITD.
I just left a message with John Mattson too.
giegs- If we fill up the Museum of Northern Arizona parking lot I will be overjoyed but thanks for your offer in case of overflow. Maybe get some of your friends to park there if they are coming to keep it simple.
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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Dresdoom is a cool line. I climbed it back in the early to mid 90's after the topo of it was in R&I or Climbing. 5.8+ for sure. hehe. R+.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2017 - 06:31pm PT
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People have been climbing bold, runout face climbs in Sedona ever since Bob Kamps, TM Herbert and Don Wilson climbed Pointed Dome in 1959. You get out of the climbing experience what you are willing to put into it. I bet you remember your day on Dresdoom very well even after all these years.
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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Yes Steve,
I had years of runout routes under my belt or Dresdoom would have been quite scary, but I do remember it well. I remember being runout on some 50-60 feet or so and a small rattle snake was slithering around on a low angle section ahead of me requiring some additional routefinding. At the time I did the route, the only knowledge I had was from a magazine article, probably written by Larry Coats. I had no idea that it was going to be so runout. Some of my fondest climbing memories are of climbs where I read about them in a magazine and then went looking for it. I was climbing with my wife (now ex) so I led everything and was somewhat concerned about her making it up some of the cruxes but luckily I thought all the cruxes offered some protection and she did fine. But Dresdoom is one of those routes that tests ones true abilities beyond the technical grade.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2017 - 03:11pm PT
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Apparently there were several John Mattsons climbing in Flagstaff BITD and I contacted the wrong one. Is the John Mattson that climbed a lot in Sedona still around?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2017 - 07:07pm PT
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Hey Erik- Please check your email.
I would like to have you and David Bloom speak at the Festival and need some feedback on the list of other potential speakers.
Cheers
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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May 21, 2017 - 07:12pm PT
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Crusher gonna be around, Steve?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2017 - 08:18pm PT
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He was last year and loves the sandstone so you never know.
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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May 22, 2017 - 02:05pm PT
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Steve,
I heard John Mattson moved to San Diego many years ago. Burcham might know.
I've never seen the "new" guide and am not sure if they included any history. I suspect you might find that there are more then a handful of folks who put up 10-20 new pitches in Sedona, but few (or none) other than Burcham really tore it up there. You may want to include the Oak Creek Waterfall, many consider it the best crack climbing in the state. JJ Schlick would be the man to contact on that area. I'm sure Jeffrey Snyder has contact info for a lot of the more recent folks.
You might consider advertising the event in "Flag Live" to generate more publicity.
Let me know if there is anything I can do to help. That's a busy weekend in my career so not sure if I'll be there or not, but it is sure to be a great event.
Albert
Edit: Of course David Bloom has been a significant pioneer in Sedona and northern AZ for many years - often free routes at a high grade.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2017 - 09:31am PT
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FOR A VARIETY OF REASONS THIS EVENT HAS BEEN POSTPONED UNTIL NEXT YEAR.
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Jun 25, 2017 - 08:55pm PT
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Bummer bump...
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Aug 30, 2017 - 11:20pm PT
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What a shame. I visited the Museum of Northern Arizona campus this week, courtesy of hooblie.
The MNA is a beauty spot adorning the face of Flagstaff since 1935.
Of course, the museum is worth a visit any time, with or without a gathering of climbing duffers and doofuses.
Best of luck with this program in 2018, Steve.
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