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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 22, 2017 - 08:11am PT
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Reeotch emailed the other day and floated the idea of heading into the Wind River Ranger this summer. Somehow that convinced my semi/mostly-retired climbing self to GET HYPE.
I've been hitting up the climbing gym and weight room and also working to shed some blubber. Seems to be working. Also to my surprise I can still tie in with a figure-8 with my eyes closed.
Scanning MountainProj it looks like there's a ton of long moderates. Any recommendations? Approaches?
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Jan 22, 2017 - 08:43am PT
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So much goodness there.
Cirque of the Towers is the obvious first choice to get the feel for the Winds. The hike in from Big Sandy is not really that bad. I'm on the low end of being in shape and can manage the hike in just over 4 hours with a full kit. Camp where it is comfortable, which might not be close to your start. Hike in the first morning, set camp, check out the views, safety meeting then scope out the approach for the next morning. Or if you are feeling spry and the weather is good hit Pingora's South Buttress (5.8, 3p) to suss out the descent.
Get an early start on any objectives is a really really good rule. Plan to be roped climbing as early as possible. Summiting by 12 or 1 will make for a nice evening of relaxing.
Wolf's Head (5.6) and Pingora's NE Face (5.8+) are both classics for a reason. Highly recommend. Wolf's Head is more popular and you can expect to see other parties here.
Pingora's East Face (5.7) is another great romp. Good first route for the range. You won't see others on it.
Deep Lake area offers a ton of memorable moderates, fewer people, great fishing and a slightly shorter hike.
Don't be to discouraged by the parking lot at Big Sandy, very few of those vehicles are climbers.
August can offer a relatively bug free trip.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 22, 2017 - 09:31am PT
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been to the Cirque twice, great trips both... more later...
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jan 22, 2017 - 11:19am PT
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Don't forget the mosquito repellent!
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seano
Mountain climber
none
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Jan 22, 2017 - 12:37pm PT
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I thought Wolf's Head's east ridge was awesome, with a little bit of everything, but it might be less so if you rope up, since it's kind of a twisty route. The Cirque is great, but it can be kind of a zoo, especially when some big group of NOLSies sets up camp. Titcomb Basin is at least as scenic, has a number of long moderates (I haven't done them yet), and is far less crowded.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 22, 2017 - 12:40pm PT
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If I ever go back I'm hiring llamas.
Was actually considering being there for the full eclipse.
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Beilstein
climber
San Rafael
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Jul 31, 2017 - 07:26pm PT
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No great story here, but a memory of a trip seemingly ages ago to me.
Summer of 1988 I got married to a wonderful girl ( Leslie) , thinking life was easy because she agreed to a climbing honey moon. The 50 Classics book by Roper and Steck had recently been published and I had a plan to tour.
Late July wedding, we loaded up the truck, hit the City of Rocks for a week, the place was deserted then, except one other party from the East Coast.
. Moving on we headed to the Tetons for the complete Exum. A couple good pitches, then a lot of rubble. Sorry Teton Lovers.
Then we headed to the Winds to get up Pingora. I remember what seemed like 50 miles of gravel road to Big Sandy, then running part of the approach with packs to beat a T-storm.
We made camp and next day headed up the East Face to get familiar with the area and descent. I remember having Leslie carry a rock up the first pitch to knock a fixed pin out for bootie. I know, I am a cheap MF.
Next day we are up early and head for classic NE face route, and when we get to the base around 6:00 there's already a party on it! A reminder this is 1988!! Not wanting to risk delay and afternoon T-storms we head back to camp to return earlier next day,.
Next day all is well, we cruise the route until one of the final pitches which is a kind of flared chimney. For me leading was fine, but Leslie was wearing a fanny pack with lunch, water and camera. It was not working in the chimney, so I yelled down to tie it onto the rope in front of her. So she takes the pack off, sets it on the sloping ledge while tieing a knot in the rope. While she was doing this the pack rolls off the ledge (past the party behind us) and into space.
So we have no lunch, water, or summit photos. We head down and actually find the remains of the pack in the talus below. The OM-1 camera is in a thousand pieces, the water bottle is still intact except the top is blown off. The North Face actually rebuilt the top flap fanny pack.
That was the end of our Winds trip, but we did continue with the honeymoon to the Needles of Cali, East Buttress of Whitney, regular route on Fairview, a stint visiting San Francisco, before heading back to PNW.
The Winds seemed like a big untrammeled area of wild walls, creeks, meadows that I hope to return to when able to. So many areas, but where's the time.
Maybe this qualifies for the Monday Night Posting while drunk thread!
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Jul 31, 2017 - 08:01pm PT
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I could still be convinced into heading up there in AUG OR Sept.
We started work today.
Never been, but looks dreamy.
A little concerned about bears.
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Q- Ball
Mountain climber
but to scared to climb them anymore
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Jul 31, 2017 - 08:08pm PT
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Hope your trip went great!
I guided in the Winds for several years. Mostly dragging clients up Gannett. I loved it at the time but looking back... Good grief how did I not lose a client. Had lightening get us on Fremont, but spent a lot of time in the lesser traveled areas south of Titcomb Basin guiding on lesser know areas with long approaches.
My ice axe has grooves on the handle from stopping clients with an impromptu boot-axe belay on a couloir on Dinwoody Glacier.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 31, 2017 - 08:58pm PT
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Y'all prolly don't wanna hear about crispy critters, huh?
How 'bout skeeters?
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Jul 31, 2017 - 09:46pm PT
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I do Reilly
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 31, 2017 - 09:50pm PT
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It's hard stuffin' 'em in a body bag. You can only get about
four of them Wind River skeeters in one!
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Esparza
Trad climber
Westminster, CA
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My son and I are heading that way mid August. Will be spending 4 days up in the Winds... Hopefully the timing works out that we will be back there during the eclipse. Side Note: Reading Joe Kelsey's "A Place in Which To Search... Summers in the Wind Rivers." A really fun read and fuels my excitement!
Nature, would be good to see you man. You gonna be out there?
Mike
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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soaring_bird
Trad climber
Oregon
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Gained 7,000 ft. on mountain wave lift once in a C-172 with power at idle and flaps 10 degrees over the Wind Rivers.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Love the Winds. Best time is around August 20....mosquitos gone or going and the early Sept. Snowstorm is still in the future. Bring fishing gear....trout sushi! E-mail if you want to know where the fish....info. not for public consumption.
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Petch
Gym climber
knapsack crack
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One of the most beautiful places I've been. Camp below mt Mitchell and climb the 5.9 on it. Black flies were way worse than the mosquitoes.
Reeotch, what happened? I was hoping for a stop by. Weak sauce!
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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I've done many trips into the East Fork Valley. You won't find many climbers
in there; even thou this area offers some of the longest free climbs in the Range, up to 16 pitches.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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That tr may have given away the secret fish in' hole.
Leave tmrw. Bringin da pole.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Many of the lakes have great fishing. Nice supplement to backpacking food.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Went to the Cirque in 1963 to do a 1st ascent of Pingora's north face. Got stormed off about half way and bailed. Next day did Wolfshead.
Came back the following year and completed the Pingora route. My kids would bring back strings of trout every evening = a feast. Yes, Jim, sushi many miles from the ocean.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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It's 1983-50 Classic Climbs has come out so we plan our trip to hit a couple. Talking to Todd Skinner at Devils Tower, we find that there has been a fatality on Wolfs Head- Lightning.
Our VW has tire and oil problems, so we buy a couple of used tires in Gilette- one immediately develops a goose egg bump and the other has a slow leak- but if we fill it every 100 miles it's all good. The oil problem fixes itself with a can of STP.
We go to Big Sandy to walk in just as they are flying the body out. Not such a good way to begin.
We go into the cirque and thre's no real climbing activity that we can see. We do Wolfs Head and it was really great, super exposure, fun summit towers, and a rock brake-sitting glissade to get back to camp. One other party follows us on the route- couple of old groovers from Az.
Next day we do the NE on Pingora- another great route, but we hang a rope on the descent and end up bivvying. Weather holds, and we get down in the morning- no worries. We have the route to ourselves. Fun on the bottom- The hummock pitches were still in. The top has all sorts of 5.8 cracks that you can choose from.
Next, we climb a route on Mitchell and top out. That peak had really great views to the North- Camera was out of film so we didn't get the shots.
We hike out and the VW's "new" tire is flat. We had bought a can of fix a flat and that filled it up 2/3rds-sort of gave it a Dr. Suess look. We limped it back to Lander. If we were smart we would have just jacked up someone else's bug and traded tires, but we were too stupid.
Coming out we stop at the NOLS, to ask for a free shower--Completely made unwelcome. They send us out the door with out so much as a what did you climb? So much for the spirit of the hills. We went to the municipal pool in Lander and showered and swam there.
I hear that it has more people now, but anyone who is willing to schlep it in to go climb is probably good people, and worth meeting.
You need to bring in a lot of kit because the weather could do anything. If I go again I'm thinking Llama's or maybe college aged rope guns- I raised those two boys for a reason!
Good memories for me- Hope you have the same.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Hey Norm,
By any chance is that Pronghorn?
If not, I'm curious, where is it? Great to see your still getting out!
I wish that I lived closer and had those horses of yours. Quite the life!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Looks sweet Norm!
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okay, whatever
climber
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I spent a week in the Cirque of the Towers in August 1976, and thoroughly enjoyed it, except for the skeeters, which were annoying, and ever-present, even on the summit of Pingora. We climbed Mitchell and Warrior I and Wolfshead, as well, on that trip. I can only imagine that Lonesome Lake is far more crowded now than it was then... we had it to ourselves... but still, it's a gorgeous place, with beautiful rock all around. And packing in there, over Jackass Pass, from the Big Sandy Opening, is good exercise, as I recall it... serious load humping, with ropes and hardware, tent and food, and so on!
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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That's one proud looking piece of stone Norm, the Winds are certainly one of the most beautiful mountain ranges on earth. Looking forward to a return trip, unfortunately it's got to wait until next summer.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Okay, whatever, you bet the Cirque of the Towers is more crowded....nothing stays the same. When I first went to the Cirque in the early 70's I caught a nice, fat trout with my hands in a small feeder stream to Lonsome Lake and saw a Fischer running thru the boulder while hiking up to Pingora.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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If your looking for that 70's Wind River feel go to the Big Horns.
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clarkolator
climber
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I missed you by days in '83, Hobo Dan.
On that trip we bought some dried beans at NOLS that didn't re-hydrate over the stove, and we got crippled by incapacitating gas. Liters per hour, hanging heads out the corner of the tent for air. Did Wolf's Head the next day and shared rap ropes with another party. On the way down, my partner had an attack of gostroenteritis and one of the other party members started throwing up. We were screaming at them to rap fast so they didn't let loose on us. I still feel bad for the next party.
As far as recommendations, I always wanted to turn right at Big Sandy Lake (instead of left towards COT), towards Steeple and East Temple. The one time I went camping up there it felt really remote, and the climbing looks spectacular.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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^^^Clark I heard you Eugene boys ate more than beans, or was that another trip???
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okay, whatever
climber
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Catching trout by hand... now that's a feat I've never pulled off, Jim Donini! And I always wanted to go back, partway in to the Cirque (but minus Jackass Pass!), and do the west face of Haystack, climb Steeple, and so on, having climbed most of the stuff I was interested in in the Cirque of the Towers. But that never happened. I did climb Gannett, in the northern Winds, back in the 70's, however. I always wanted to go in and climb Bonneville and so on in the "middle" of the range, and climb in the Titcomb Valley, further north (Squaretop, etc), but those trips never happened, either.
And mike m, I know a lot about the geology of the Bighorns, and used to spend a lot of time elsewhere in Wyoming, in the 1970's. But despite that, I've never been to the Bighorns, personally, though I have climbed Devil's Tower!
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clarkolator
climber
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Funny you should ask, Charlie!
We starved for a couple of days because we couldn't stomach the beans we brought. Almost killed and ate a grouse on the hike out, but my friend pointed out we were only four hours from chicken fried steak at the last moment.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Returned to the Winds about 5 years ago after a 47 year hiatus and amazed how pristine and uncrowded it remains. The old David Brower formula for people factor being inversely proportional to the distance from the road. Thankfully it is a long way from any major population center.
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Aug 10, 2017 - 05:15am PT
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Steve A no that's not Pronghorn. It's now called the Big Chief Buttress and is on the east side of Washakie Pass near Mt. Washakie. And no I don't have horses. I just get a packer when going heavy and deep. Best is a guy named Eric Kurchner. He'll pack a trip to anywhere you want to go as opposed to the standard outfitters will only go where they want to go.
I've been doing trips in the Winds every year since 1974. You can still find a 70's experience easily. Just stay away from the Cirque, Deep Lake, Titcomb and now the East Fork and you can find quality climbing without the crowds.
My wife Lorna, myself and a small handful of friends have sought out the unclimbed obscure together in many remote corners and have found some real gems. Some that are even climbable roundtrip in a day from home or at least the trailhead. It's not all 10-20 mile pack ins in the Winds if you study a map and Joe Kelsey's latest edition of his guidebook.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Aug 10, 2017 - 05:24am PT
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Clarko--We were eating soaked lentils and they mostly got softened up after 12 hours in the pan and then we cooked 'em up. No need for tent poles as were blasting away. Our seasoning was a taped up bottle of tobasco. We had a tin of sardines and four butterscotch candies for our emergency bivvy food.
I rate a good workout by how long into it I start thinking of food- on Pingora I was completely dreaming about Pineapple- go figure?
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Aug 10, 2017 - 05:26am PT
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Hi Norm,
You might remember 2-3 years ago I met you and your wife below Mid-Summer Dome, in the East Fork Valley. You gave me and my 2 younger climbing partners some Elk jerky to sample.
I assumed those horses were yours- my mistake.
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Aug 10, 2017 - 05:33am PT
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Of course I remember you Steve. It's always nice to run in to other "old" climbers these days. Look us up next time you are in the Tetons.
Nice story Hobo. I can relate.
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clarkolator
climber
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Aug 10, 2017 - 11:53am PT
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Hey hobo dan, did you live in "the Pink" in Lander that summer?
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Aug 10, 2017 - 12:38pm PT
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"In 1969 Joe Kelsey pitched a tent in the Wind River Mountains, declared it his home, and has returned every summer since. A wilderness paradise, the range straddles the Continental Divide in northwestern Wyoming. Kelsey and a cadre of other young climbers ventured into the Winds to explore routes more obscure than those in the popular Teton Range to the west. Through tales of pitons and nuts, heroic climbers and Vulgarians, solitude and community, Kelsey captures the exploration of an enigmatic mountain range, the cultural evolution of climbing, the camaraderie of camp life, and the responsibility that comes with falling in love with a place.
Feeling part of wild land, seeing ourselves reflected in it, gives us a glimpse of who we are. Kelsey's book shows how he found a true sense of self in one of America's wildest places."
.. back cover blurb from Kelsey's A Place in Which to Search .... Summers in the Wind Rivers
Reminiscing:
Joe known by his contemporaries for his ever present golden retrievers, was wandering around the base of El Cap in 1974 with his momma golden followed closely by about seven pups. Oh my god, how cute. I needed to have one.
"How much Joe?"
"Fifty bucks, the climbers rate."
What a deal! I bought a little female and I've had a golden in my life ever since ... three with an occasional gap. That's 43 years of wonderful companionship.
Joe just put a photo of his latest retriever, Katy, on Facebook. Caption: Katy 10/30/04 - 8/8/17. Sorry Joe.
Get his book!
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Aug 10, 2017 - 05:38pm PT
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No, I left lander for the Valley right after we washed up.
I just finished the Kelsey book--if you like the Winds I'd say you'll enjoy his stories
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