When Feminism Goes Too Far - Climbing Article

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BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 18, 2017 - 01:19pm PT
An interesting perspective on a current hot topic written by a female climber.

http://eveningsends.com/when-feminism-goes-too-far/
couchmaster

climber
Jan 18, 2017 - 01:38pm PT
Impressive, even if you only look at the great climbing pictures like I did. Thanks for sharing.



Someones been checking out Supertopo:
"The reality is that we’ve forgotten, in our politically correct culture, that men and women are sometimes rude to one another."

Especially the men. On political threads!

cat t.

climber
california
Jan 18, 2017 - 01:48pm PT
What about this alternative to the "climbing is totally sexist and racist to boot"/"sexism and racism in climbing is totally made up" debate:
Climbing itself is very open and welcoming and, in 2017 at least, is not particularly sexist or racist, but in society at large there still exist many pressures and implicit restrictions on women and minorities that might make them less likely to participate in activities such as climbing. Societal expectation might keep some people away from climbing, but climbing itself isn't sexist.
Nick Danger

Ice climber
Arvada, CO
Jan 18, 2017 - 01:54pm PT
Bruce,
Thanks for sharing this very thoughtful article. Much appreciated. From my personal experience, the climbing community is pretty egalitarian and I don't see as much sexist behavior here as I do in other arenas. At the climbing gym I frequent, the biggest bigotry seems to be from the route setters who think everyone is tall, to the great disadvantage of my short, lovely wife and passel of shorter friends.

The "complaint feminism" the author describes in the cited article reminds me of the dynamic between my mother and grandmother. My mother has always thought of herself as a victim, and has experienced life less fulfilling than my grandmother, who always took charge of her own destiny, complained little, and just forged ahead to live an utterly remarkable life. It's a personal choice, really.

We are all one big family, and I extend my heart-felt thanks to everyone who makes our community such a wonderful family.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jan 18, 2017 - 03:11pm PT
I'm against Passels, in general.

We should outlaw them in civil society.

They should have separate schools.


Just like dentists!



heh ;)
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
Jan 18, 2017 - 03:13pm PT
Reading an article like that makes me realize how old I am - at least two generations removed from that kind of feminism. If women think they have it bad now, they should have tried to climb in the old days! Then again, our attitude was different. We were proud to prove to men that we could do things and enjoyed watching their shock and awe when we did. That's a far cry from the sensitive victim mentality.

One of the sources of misunderstanding I think that crosses the generations is the difference between how men talk with their buddies and how they act. Were Trump's comments just "locker room talk" or were they sexual assault? Were the various boob threads on ST innocent fun or degrading? I don't think men and women will ever agree on that.

It wouldn't matter probably if men and women were equally vulnerable to sexual assault, but overwhelmingly it is women who are raped, beaten and murdered by men, not the other way around. Thus touching someone who is being spotted can be a prank to a man and very threatening to a woman depending on the circumstances.

Perhaps what has changed which makes women more sensitive, is that men are not as respectful and restrained as they used to be? The sexual revolution is not without it's problems.

The solution? Tough women can climb with men and sensitive women can climb with other women.

rbord

Boulder climber
atlanta
Jan 18, 2017 - 04:02pm PT
For me, the idea that median black wealth is still only 1/13 median white wealth, or that women earn only $0.76 to a man's dollar, and are 15 times more likely to be raped than a man, are just the result of "actions by individual people" is maybe not the most effective way to understand or work on fixing the problem.

I think it runs deeper than that, and sometimes as we try to figure out exactly how it does work, we get it wrong. Sure, ok, but let's not throw the baby out with the bathwater.

The hidden source and effect of "statements that climbers make without putting too much thought into what they're saying" may not be as benign as we want to believe those statements are without putting too much thought into understanding them.
jgill

Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
Jan 18, 2017 - 04:07pm PT
Nice article. A breath of fresh air in a time of political correctness.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jan 18, 2017 - 04:27pm PT
As opposed to two thousand years when feminism didn't go far enough? That said, I also know which gender of the two is the smarter, more competitive and inherently dangerous.
MikeL

Social climber
Southern Arizona
Jan 18, 2017 - 05:10pm PT
Tami: Learn to speed-read!!!

I do, but there's so much to read. A good summary or excerpts posted can encourage me to dive deeper.

I'm sort of with Sycorax. This is a writing space, and it would be good if people did it.
DanaB

climber
CT
Jan 18, 2017 - 05:15pm PT
Nice article. A breath of fresh air in a time of political correctness.


I have difficulty identifying political correctness and seeing its extent. Could you help?
rbord

Boulder climber
atlanta
Jan 18, 2017 - 05:18pm PT
Using our law of small numbers, it's hard for us to see (why we should dig deeper) past the first sentence. IMHO, our law of small numbers will not be able to fix racism or sexism.

Politically correct is like scientifically correct or logically correct. All this fuss about being correct is overblown in today's political environment - we've moved past the need to be correct. We're just Special that way.
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
Jan 18, 2017 - 05:30pm PT
Silly, anti-PC fodder. What a ridiculous article.
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
Jan 18, 2017 - 06:54pm PT
Disappointing article...I thought this was going to be about Cosmic's reassignment surgery...rj
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
Jan 18, 2017 - 06:55pm PT
I wouldn't touch this with a ten foot
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Jan 18, 2017 - 08:25pm PT
The Man said it best:
"Vy can't ve chust climb!"

BTW, I still have one of the "Angst less, climb more" t-shirts from stzzo.
Ken M

Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
Jan 18, 2017 - 10:28pm PT
I thought this was an interesting perspective, which is not entirely obvious.
BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2017 - 11:20pm PT
Here is a link to the Shelma Jun article referenced in the original article at the beginning of this thread.

http://www.climbing.com/people/women-in-climbing-accept-and-adapt/
nah000

climber
no/w/here
Jan 18, 2017 - 11:49pm PT
an intentionally respectful piece...

always hard to be a part of, what without doubt is generally a still [but also certainly less] marginalized group, and point out that within a particular subset it is more complicated... without being called an uncle tom.

and so kudos to the author... while i'll never know for sure, i leave believing her...



the question that, i believe, should be asked when micro/macro-agressions and their ilk are suspected is:

would the result have [actually/certainly] been different if i was not female/coloured/queer/etc...



as the author suggests, the initially assumed assumption is not always the correct one...



ie. there are many who have, for example, internalized being a part of a warrior class and so have accepted being sent off to war, and are then mistakenly assumed to be enemies based on the bookcover...

when in reality, if vulnerability was presented, they might have shown themselves to be allies...

[aka uncle tom is sometimes sister tom: the only way one knows for sure is to risk oneself: aka to assume, is to guarantee death... whereas to hope is merely to risk death]
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 19, 2017 - 03:23am PT
Maybe it's my state of mind reading this at the end of the day, it this seems rambling and unfocused and I don't get what the point is. It's not written in a way compelling enough for me to want to reread and find out.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 19, 2017 - 07:47am PT
Davita Gurian, the young women who wrote the article, is 23 years old.
I say her message is clear and I like it.

This isn't to say that issues like gender and race relations don't still have some ways to go toward resolution.
Her point is: don't be petty and choose your battles. This doesn't weaken the cause, it strengthens it.

I'd wager that most of the women I climbed with during the 70s, 80s, 90s, and 2000s would wholeheartedly agree with her.
WBraun

climber
Jan 19, 2017 - 08:08am PT
After reading the article I don't see Davita Gurian as a feminist but more as a well balanced human being ....
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 19, 2017 - 08:22am PT
Well if that's her point it's reasonable, and I thought, self evident in the first place.
Thanks Roy, maybe her next piece will be expressed as eloquently and articulately as you put it.
If that's really what she's trying to say.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jan 19, 2017 - 08:24am PT
Where in these pieces is there anything about outperforming men?
cat t.

climber
california
Jan 19, 2017 - 08:29am PT
Feminists want so badly to believe that their bodies and their brains aren't fundamentally built to bear and care for children.

If women are approaching climbing with the goal of outperforming men, they're missing out on a lot of good stuff

Aren't humans in general all trying to believe that there is more to their bodies and minds than simple reproduction machinery? Why do you think a man's greater physical strength makes it more acceptable for him to aspire to some meaning beyond FoodSexSleep?
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jan 19, 2017 - 08:39am PT
Thanks warbs, I'd missed that.

When I saw this topic come up I knew you'd be on it!
I liked the piece- thought it was well written and put together.
At the same time I think it had a way of minimizing something very real and valid.

The old adage "perception is reality" comes to mind.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 19, 2017 - 09:19am PT
climbing is already a totally artificial activity with rules that are completely arbitrary

what constitutes "success" in climbing is also arbitrary, and what attributes contribute to success are undoubtedly unknown, this is simply because climbing has not been subject to nearly the same level of study as other, equally arbitrary, sports; there's no money in it, let alone "big" money.

so pronouncements of what body type, style, gender, hormonal mix, etc, are needed to achieve "success" are largely anecdotal; and it is not surprising that cultural norms play a large role in what our expectation of the male/female difference in climbing ability is. Opinions on what constitutes climbing are also all over the map.

motivation to succeed in sports is a major component to individual achievement, perhaps the major component, to success in that sport. An individual must answer the questions: how much am I willing to commit to the sport? what is my likelihood of succeeding?

What are the rewards for succeess in climbing? and who provides those rewards?




my main criticism of the article is that it didn't research a wider range of "informed opinion" regarding "feminism," but instead seemed to rely on the opinion of single voice. An article trying to establish a critical thesis regarding women in climbing and the effect of feminism might try to be equally critical of the sources they use to make their argument.

Surely there is a broader set of opinions to tap into and fill out the picture.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 19, 2017 - 09:26am PT
I agree that the article could have used a much better editor
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Jan 19, 2017 - 09:46am PT
I thought it was a 'meh' piece. I understand her general point--taking offense at everything is counterproductive--but it read like a so so term paper. She seems to have a poor understanding of the history of feminism, as evidenced by comments such as:
Shelma Jun is the founder of female/climbing-empowerment website Flash Foxy, as well as the Flash Foxy Women’s Climbing Festival. She’s been a huge force for female empowerment in climbing, and one of the reasons that we women have it so great in climbing today.
Really? What about other women climbers who let their climbing do the talking for them: Bonnie Prudden, Lynn Hill, Catherine Destivel, Miriam Underhill, etc., etc.

Everyone is going to have their own sense of propriety, which is based upon their own beliefs, values and past experiences. That's what makes us different. There is no "right" response. You can advocate why you believe your POV is more well rounded. However, those arguing that others should have thicker skin often miss the counterpoint that they can also be more considerate in how they act. What those folks are really advocating for is that others change, not themselves.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
Jan 19, 2017 - 09:48am PT
I'm saying a woman's physiology and mindset makes it more challenging for her to compete with a male climber.

I agree. That's why women should measure themselves against their own physical and mental limits, and stop worrying about competing with men. It also makes women's achievements all the more admirable when they can compete with the best men. I think that accounts for the universal admiration for the accomplishments of Lynn Hill for example.

The only real advantage women have in climbing it seems to me would be in alpinism where they should be able to suffer more and survive longer in the cold due to more subcutaneous fat. However, the world of alpinism is even more constrained than rock climbing. Try huddling up in an ice cave without touching someone.

As for natural activities, the only natural activities in nature in times past were related to survival. Only if you are killing something up on those cliffs and bringing it home to eat, can you say it is a natural activity. The people who climb cliffs for bird's eggs and honey are climbing naturally, the rest of us are just amusing ourselves.

And I agree with Ed that the whole field of feminism could use some major introspection as to how we got to where we are and what the issues of today should be, also what mistakes have been made in the past.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
Jan 19, 2017 - 09:50am PT
What those folks are really advocating for is that others change, not themselves.

Exactly, but isn't that all of life, especially religion and politics?
cat t.

climber
california
Jan 19, 2017 - 09:53am PT
I'm saying a woman's physiology and mindset makes it more challenging for her to compete with a male climber.
In this (repeated) argument, it seems like you've narrowed the definition of "climbing" to something that almost no humans actually do. No, there are not very many women who will throw away their lives in search of the most dangerous and wild climb in the world. There are also basically no men who would do that. That's not the metric by which most of us would measure a "good climber," though.

Also, you state yourself that there's far more to climbing than competing to be the best physical athlete. We can all agree that men are, in general, better at picking up large objects and running swiftly. Climbing is far more multi-dimensional than that--and I think you agree with that statement. It's about balancing risk and reward, enjoying ones surroundings, challenging oneself, working out a puzzle with your partner, and a whole host of other things that have very little to do with physical strength. Many of those things rely more on mental strength--and perseverance--than physical strength. Being a good climber also does NOT require being actively attracted to risk.

When chatting with you, it seems that you set up these very narrow definitions to prove a point, rather than using more realistic definitions that result in a fuzzier real world. I don't think anyone will disagree that men are stronger, that women are slower, etc. But climbing is not really about competing to be the strongest.
Levy

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Jan 19, 2017 - 12:39pm PT
Interesting article and one I find rather on target.
rbord

Boulder climber
atlanta
Jan 19, 2017 - 03:48pm PT
Don't be ridiculous. The definition of real climber, and real climbing, is whatever I say it is. Why can't you see how humble I am for saying it?
August West

Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
Jan 19, 2017 - 05:03pm PT
I agree. That's why (women) climbers should measure themselves against their own physical and mental limits, and stop worrying about competing with (men) other climbers.
cat t.

climber
california
Jan 19, 2017 - 06:53pm PT
For starters I enjoy when cat and warbler discuss men/women climbing issues, immensely.
I have no idea if you're being sarcastic...

I don't agree that are 'basically no men' who would do that, particularly if we substitute 'the most' with 'a'.
My use of "the" rather than "a" was actually purposeful. I see a distinction between pursuing objectives that are risky, and pursuing danger itself.

I'm gonna guess the male climber death rate is ten times the female. It would be interesting to know.
We've been through this before, but the mere presentation of a number does not guarantee a solution to a given question. The number you seek would not accurately represent relative risk tolerance. The factors that influence such a number would include economic conditions, geographical region, education, and a whole lot of other things we cannot parse.

Climbing history is full of epic tales of death and near death in the mountains, and nearly all the players in those epics are males.
You could just as easily conclude that the publishers of epic tales are predominantly male.

We could circle 'round endlessly (and have) about the numbers of female first ascentionists and the relative strength and mental fortitude and risk tolerance of different genders and all that. Here's the point I really care about: if you were choosing a partner for a weeklong trip into the backcountry to do some long alpine routes or some FAs or just wander around scouting, there is nothing about female partners that would make them fundamentally less qualified than a male partner. You want someone who is gritty, determined, focused, kind, strong, with a healthy balance of risk-tolerance and pursuit of excellence. Those things will come in different measure in each individual. Perhaps some of those variables have a gender bias: maybe men are more risk-tolerant, while women are grittier. It doesn't really matter, though, because you don't want a one-dimensional partner, you want someone with a range of good qualities who complements your own skills (and deficits).

It's unfortunate that the mental fortitude and commitment it takes to do serious leads is not respected as a hard earned skill by many modern gymbred climbers.
I've jumped on the grumble-bandwagon lately because of a theme I've seen recurring in several aspects of my life: I keep interacting with people (those gosh darn youth) who seem to expect that there is some sort of official, decision-making governing body for everything. Whether it's social events or climbing trips or scientific decisions, these "consumers" (I realize I am wildly generalizing) seem to expect that someone else is in charge of making the decisions, and that someone else is in charge of providing specific programming for them. I think it's some bizarre American culture thing, though I'm sure you'd like to think the phenomenon is the fault of sneaky women in lulululululemon pants diluting the climbing gyms...
cat t.

climber
california
Jan 19, 2017 - 06:58pm PT
I agree with all that stuff cat. It's your sister shelma that is putting the spotlight on competition

Sigh. How do I put this the most digestible/interpretable way--

When white dudes say something that you disagree with, you say "you are wrong." When a woman says something you disagree with, you say "women are wrong." As long as that continues to be the default interpretation ("women are wrong" rather than "she is wrong"), I would say that the female voice is insufficiently represented. If a woman speaking up is so novel that the reader thinks her individual voice represents all women, then enough women aren't speaking up.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 19, 2017 - 08:00pm PT
I'm curious as to why you think climbing is a "totally artificial activity" Ed?

I think Jan answered this, I'll amplify on that answer. But maybe Kerwin would chime in if he's around.

Basically, what we call "climbing" is a relatively modern invention, 19th century, and involves a privileged class with the wherewithal to pull it off. The Stonemasters were a byproduct of the post war affluence that allowed them the liberty to pursue their passions, with basically enough resources to scrounge to pull it off...

There is nothing natural about this. In nature, the survival margins are so thin there isn't a whole lot of time available for anything other than surviving. In this condition, this leisure class does not exist, what you have is your labor, and you apply it directly to making a living, in the literal sense.

Along the lines of the 19th century activity we've morphed into modern climbing, the goals, objectives, styles, ethics, etc are all totally arbitrary, and they change with time. What climbers in the 1970s in Yosemite came to agree were "the best style" is hardly known today, and hardly practiced.

A style that Bachar promoted around that time was the full on commitment to your abilities and skill through soloing. In some ways, that is "purer" than the protected climb... but it is a style that didn't catch on. I don't remember any deep philosophical discussion regarding this choice, the people doing it made the choice, and by and large, the people doing it were men.

And it was these men who defined, through their writings, through their exclusive societies, how climbing was defined, a legacy that still affects us today.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 19, 2017 - 09:45pm PT
Our climbing ability is a legacy of our evolution, in many ways we are well adapted for it.

So it isn't surprising when we do it and it feels natural.

But that legacy did not come from the need to send that 5.12 route... in good style...

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
Jan 19, 2017 - 10:41pm PT
feminasm
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jan 19, 2017 - 11:43pm PT
I hear what you're saying about rock climbing being a contrived activity serving no real purpose for survival...

I would say it depends on the human. Probably for the majority of climbers it is an adopted and contrived form of entertainment. But there will always be a percentage of climbers who unstoppably climbed anything and everything starting as infants. My parents said I was a 'problem climber' well before walking and they had to constantly keep an eye on me. And that never stopped: trees, buildings - anything - throughout my childhood. From ages five to nine I would climb up and sit in tall pines for hours and had to be rescued more than once when I couldn't figure out how to get down.

And I was free soloing to take pictures of orchids in cliff pockets when some climbers 'found' me and introduced me to the more formal practice of roped climbing, but I was and would have continued climbing regardless.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Jan 20, 2017 - 03:36am PT
fell off a chossy, mossy boulder move when I was 5ys old. that was good for some stitches.
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Jan 20, 2017 - 07:00am PT
Nice post above, DMT.

From Cat's post:

"You could just as easily conclude that the publishers of epic tales are predominantly male."

Right you are, but do you really think--just as a numbers game--that there are as many female climbers as male doing the hardcore alpine epic style routes? Really? Not even close. More climbers, more epic tales.

I LOVE the fact that climbing is more egalitarian than other sports, and the influx of women has been astonishing. I do think that--at least with rock climbing--the best women will be as good as the best men. As far as hardcore alpinism, we'll see. Kitty Calhoun, Catherine Destivelle, Catherine Freer (RIP) are personal heroes.

And these days, as a middle-aged so-so climber, I EXPECT all the teenage girlz to kick my ass at the crag!

BAd
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jan 20, 2017 - 07:25am PT
femanism

babe = dude

Should be acceptable, IMO.

--Y. Nerz
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Jan 20, 2017 - 07:32am PT






I was chasin' sun on 101
somewhere around Ventura
I lost a universal joint and I had to use my finger
This tall lady stopped and asked
If I had plans for dinner
Said no thanks ma'am, back home
we like the girls that sing soprano

Cause where I come from
It's cornbread and chicken
Where I come from a lotta front porch sittin'
Where I come from tryin' to make a livin'
And workin' hard to get to heaven
Where I come from
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jan 20, 2017 - 11:11am PT
One of the best aspects of climbing is how 'leveling' it is - there is no high end gear only the rich can afford which makes you a better climber. I like the fact no amount of money can buy your way up a route on lead - it's an ideal equalizer.

And now you can claim 'men' have an advantage over 'women', but any given motivated woman can completely smoke your ass. I personally just don't see or consider 'gender' as a gender or any other class doesn't tie into a rope, a solitary human does and - male or female, young or old - that's all I see, look at, and care about, the rest is irrelevant to me.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Jan 20, 2017 - 11:22am PT
I like the fact no amount of money can buy your way up a route on lead - it's an ideal equalizer.

Yep.
mooch

Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
Jan 20, 2017 - 11:44am PT
Yury

Mountain climber
T.O.
Jan 20, 2017 - 12:06pm PT
healyje:

... any given motivated woman can completely smoke your ass. I personally just don't see or consider 'gender' as a gender or any other class doesn't tie into a rope, a solitary human does and - male or female, young or old - that's all I see, look at, and care about, the rest is irrelevant to me.
Using any qualifyer is very motivational.
However you can't ignore inherited genes and acquired skills (unless you are a motivational speaker).
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jan 20, 2017 - 01:01pm PT
Climbing in the olympics - couldn't suck more, the journey to the dark side is complete.
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Jan 20, 2017 - 02:47pm PT
Plastic pulling? Utterly boring and would not watch it let alone attend.



Make the uniforms for all participating athletes board shorts.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jan 20, 2017 - 06:17pm PT
Actually, women's fear of being enslaved is rooted in thousands of years of exactly that reality and that reality remains intact in much of today's world.

'Anti-feminist'? Just another ostrich and enabler.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 20, 2017 - 08:19pm PT
really?
Warbler, some of your points are their, I gave you the benefit of the doubt that you didn't actually believe in most of that definition...
...but then again, perhaps I misjudged you.

"The principle of coverture" is part of English common law, which basically extinguishes a woman's legal identity upon marriage.

In 1839 individual states started to enact laws which gave women back some of their legal identity,
see:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Married_Women%27s_Property_Acts_in_the_United_States

This continued through the end of the 19th century, the last states to give married women legal status were Delaware, South Carolina and Virginia.

California was different, of course, and its 1849 constitution recognized the legal rights of married women.


hard to imagine, perhaps... it is a Schlaflyisc perversion to claim that women are happier when men are responsible for them, as the "definition" above seems to imply. The same arguments that Saudis make for their repressive laws regarding women.

The 14th Amendment gives all men the right to vote,
Section 2. Representatives shall be apportioned among the several States according to their respective numbers, counting the whole number of persons in each State, excluding Indians not taxed. But when the right to vote at any election for the choice of electors for President and Vice President of the United States, Representatives in Congress, the Executive and Judicial officers of a State, or the members of the Legislature thereof, is denied to any of the male inhabitants of such State, being twenty-one years of age, and citizens of the United States, or in any way abridged, except for participation in rebellion, or other crime, the basis of representation therein shall be reduced in the proportion which the number of such male citizens shall bear to the whole number of male citizens twenty-one years of age in such State.


and the Supremes in the 1872 case Minor v. Happersett found, unanimously, against expanding the interpretation of the 14th Amendment to include women.

It wasn't until 1920, the 19th Amendment, gave women the right to vote. That's not quite 100 years yet.




It should be noted that white men had "written the rules" and with no legal standing there wasn't much a woman could do.



drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jan 20, 2017 - 09:31pm PT
Here's one woman's response to the article in the OP.

http://heroes.climbfind.com/post/156131446237/one-climbers-opinion
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Jan 21, 2017 - 03:09am PT
Hardcore Feminists want to impose their perspectives and standards on their fellow men and women,

Fixed it for you.

drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jan 21, 2017 - 05:34am PT
Check the link I posted Warbs-
It's pretty interesting, about how "words matter".
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jan 21, 2017 - 07:16am PT
Man, just digging that hole deeper and deeper.
Bullwinkle

Boulder climber
Jan 21, 2017 - 07:51am PT

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The strictly guarded secret of Chinese royalty in antiquity—queens and concubines used them to stay in shape for emperors—jade eggs harness the power of energy work, crystal healing, and a Kegel-like physical practice. Fans say regular use increases chi, orgasms, vaginal muscle tone, hormonal balance, and feminine energy in general. Shiva Rose has been practicing with them for about seven years, and raves about the results; we tried them, too, and were so convinced we put them into the goop shop.

Jade eggs’ power to cleanse and clear make them ideal for detox; here, Shiva Rose answers all our questions and shares her jade egg tips for improving your sex life, your cycle, and your overall well-being.

A Q&A with Shiva Rose
Q

How did you learn first about jade eggs?

A

I learned about the jade egg through the yoga community that I was in, and I sort of went down the rabbit hole of researching the practice—there was not as much information about it then as there is now. But it made intuitive sense to me: The word for our womb, yoni, translates as “sacred place”, and it is a sacred place—it’s where many women access their intuition, their power, and their wisdom. It’s this inner sanctum that we can access when it’s not in use creating life. Sadly most people use it as a psychic trash bin, storing old or negative energy. I see it as a place to celebrate ourselves as sexual, powerful beings, or as mothers, not a place to carry negative or un-dealt-with emotions. I’ve always been into crystals, so learning about jade eggs (which are gems) has been a natural progression for me—this particular jade, nephrite jade, has incredible clearing, cleansing powers. It’s a dark, deep green and very heavy—it’s a great stone for taking away negativity.

Q

What are the benefits?

A

Jade eggs can help cultivate sexual energy, increase orgasm, balance the cycle, stimulate key reflexology around vaginal walls, tighten and tone, prevent uterine prolapse, increase control of the whole perineum and bladder, develop and clear chi pathways in the body, intensify feminine energy, and invigorate our life force. To name a few!

The jade creates kidney strength—it’s known as jing in Chinese energy, and it’s all about sexual potency, and even beauty—if your hormones are balanced, your skin will look better. It’s a holistic combination of things, where one benefit builds to another. Jade also takes away negativity and cleanses—it’s a very heavy material, very powerful.

Q

What about the tradition, history, and story of it resonated with you?

A

My imagination goes a little nuts, imagining these concubines in ancient Chinese temples, secretly running the country through the jade eggs! It’s funny, that the eggs started as a way to please the emperors and they turned out to be so empowering for any woman who used them—kept them feeling and looking youthful, connected them to their inner power. They didn’t have things like bioidentical hormones in those days—this was an incredible, secret practice that benefited everybody. I was curious about how the royal families kept it secret for so many eons. I also love the Taoist practice that involves taking in the energy from the egg, imagining energy filtering up through the yoni, up through the spine, out through the top of your head, and a practice of trying to keep that energy above your belly button, like a star of energy for yourself.

Contemporary rituals are great, too: I went to a beautiful women’s forest gathering in Northern California—we did a jade egg ceremony out under the redwoods—it was amazing.

Q

What were your expectations when you tried it? Did you have hopes for it, skepticism, or just an open mind?

A

I found myself frustrated in the beginning when I didn’t feel things happen right away—it takes around a month of daily use to really start perceiving the results. Now, of course, I miss it if I don’t do it; I’ve become much more sensitive.

I got divorced 8 years ago, then had a break-up after that, so the idea of clearing my energy made a lot of sense to me. I loved the idea that since we use our brain, why not use this area of our body, one that’s about giving life, where we hold so much of our intuition and wisdom?

I didn’t expect it to help with my hormones to the extent that it did: I became much more regular, much more balanced.

Q

Is there an age or type of woman that benefits most?

A

Once sexually active, women of any age respond to the egg—who doesn’t want their muscles more toned, their libido and lubrication increased, and their hormones balanced? People definitely use them differently—for instance, some women sleep with the egg in, but some women feel too much energy from the egg for that long a stretch. Either way, for any age, the key is regular, daily practice.

Q

What results have you seen? How quickly did they come? Have other results unfolded over time?

A

After about a month, I really saw a difference in my cycle. I’d had hormone imbalances, and the jade egg made my whole cycle much, much more regular.

One friend said her lover really noticed a (positive) change, and you definitely do discover a lot of positives in that vein! Really, you get better connected to the power within you: We are so powerful as women, and we forget that, and this is a gateway to really get in touch with it. We have this whole space we can access to shift our energy and transform ourselves.

And, this is a weird one, but I sometimes feel people are more attracted to you when you’re carrying a jade egg—my 20-year-old daughter was joking about it one day, we were walking down the street and she was like, “Mom, are you wearing a jade egg?!”

Q

How is it different from say, a regular Kegel practice?

A

There are similarities; one of the things I learned through this practice, though, is that a lot of women (including me, originally) are doing kegels wrong: It turns out you can overdo it and the Kegels can end up working in reverse! So the idea with the jade egg and Kegels is you need a rest period. You tighten your muscles, of course, but the key is, you then have to relax, fully. In the West, we often have that more-is-more attitude, and we end up not taking the breath we need between the Kegels.

You learn in this practice that the yoni is divided into three floors, the entrance, the middle zone, and the cervix. As you work with the egg, you start to perceive and understand the different zones. You use your finger, and you’ll be able to feel the different floors and the impact the egg practice has on them.

Q

How do we start?

A

When you first get your egg, boil it for a few minutes to make sure it’s clean. It’s your sacred space, so it’s like making sure your feet are clean when you enter a temple. For me, it’s not just about physical cleansing—you can put it out under the light of a full moon to cleanse or recharge it like a crystal, or you could burn sage—the egg does absorb energy, so really clearing it when you first get it is a great thing to do.

Before I insert an egg, I’ll do a ritual: I place it on a beautiful piece of fabric, light a candle, maybe even burn some sage. For my ritual, I imagine pure light flowing between me and the egg.

Then I think it’s important to set an intention, as you would in meditation, before putting the egg in. It’s first and foremost about clearing energy and cleansing, so your intention could be about releasing past relationships, or medical issues, childbirth—anything.

Specific instructions come with each egg, explaining exactly how to insert it: Use your finger, and don’t get discouraged—remember, it’s a practice. If you stand up and the egg falls out, don’t worry—it’s totally normal. It’s recommended that you start with a medium-size egg, which is heavier. I can only use the medium lying down; I can sleep with it, or I just do the practice lying down. The smaller size is for standing up, but most experts say it’s important to start with the harder one, which is the medium.

Always wrap the egg in silk, keep it clean, and store it on an altar—it should take a sacred place in your life.

Q

Can the egg get stuck or lost?

A

This is the most common question I get—no, it can’t get lost, but these ones have a hole drilled in them, which you can then thread with unwaxed floss, to make it easier to take out, and to generally ease any anxiety about it—which, I’ll tell you, a lot of people have!

Q

Are there people who shouldn’t use jade eggs?

A

If you’re on your cycle, don’t use it. If you’re pregnant or use an IUD, it’s super-important to check with your doctor before you use one. Some people say it can be useful in preparing for childbirth, but again, definitely consult a doctor in that situation.

Q

There are specifications about where the egg needs to be from, how it’s been treated—can you explain a bit about that?

A

The most important thing, just like when you’re buying a crystal, is to be careful where you get it from. Nephrite is a specific type of jade—it’s the most powerful, the most clearing, the traditional one used by women in ancient China, and the best to start with. It comes from Canada or sometimes Australia, and it’s a darker jade, deep green, almost black. The egg will get lighter in color, with use; if you feel like it’s been drained of energy, recharge it in the full moon just the way you would a crystal.

Nephrite jade is associated with cleansing, health, abundance, beauty, longevity, and healing for the heart. Really insist on nephrite jade—there are a lot of imposters and weird stuff on the internet that isn’t even actually jade.

The other egg people will use is rose quartz, which is more gentle, and brings in more love energy. But the jade is the most powerfully cleansing; go with the jade first, always. Then when you’re more practiced, you can use rose quartz to bring in love and heal wounds, in a gentler way.

In the interest of equality Warbler has been sticking his head up his ass for most of his life.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 21, 2017 - 10:35am PT
^^^Bravo! sycorax



as you know Warbler, I have a reputation as a literalist... so when I read something I am also looking at the intent of the author, who chose those particular words to convey an idea. It is an act of intellectual cowardice to post something, as you did, and then say "well, you can't take it literally, I wouldn't say something stupid, so you can't accuse me of being stupid with I post something that is"

words matter because they are meant to convey ideas, so be careful of what you post (or re-post) if you don't want to be called out on it.


after your denial of what was re-posted, you offered the defense:
"There is some truth to it though.

There are undeniable differences btw men and women after equal rights and equal pay. Women have lots of advantages that men don't in our society. Some women more than others, just like some men have more of the classic male advantages."


The words "truth," "undeniable," "equal," "advantage," are all judgements, how they are applied in the sentences you wrote are based on the subjective evaluation of the persons making them. It is easy to claim objectivity, and then make sweeping claims based on the presumption of objectivity, while all the time being very subjective, and applying all the bias that can come along.

For instance, take musicians, one would say that a musician is selected to play, say, in an orchestra based on their performance skill on their specific instrument. A musical director, in charge of hiring the best musicians available for a position in his orchestra, holds auditions of those musicians to assess their ability.

The fraction of women orchestra musicians was about 20% through the 1970s. Directors asked about the small fraction of women provided the reasons:

 female musicians are not the equal of male musicians,
 “women have smaller techniques than men,”
 “are more temperamental and more likely to demand special attention or treatment,”
 “the more women [in an orchestra], the poorer the sound.”

Zubin Mehta is quoted: “I just don’t think women should be in an orchestra.”

But this began to change in the 1980's and 1990's, and the reason is interesting: orchestras started to hold "blind auditions," where the musician could be heard, but not seen. Here, arguably, the performance of the musician could be judged without knowing who the musician was.

The diversity of the orchestras increased, and women, who had previously been 10% of the new hires increased to 35%.

This increase is not due to an improvement or an increase of women musicians during that period, it has to do with the reduction in the bias of the music directors brought on by the fact that they judged the musician by the music, and not by gender (or race).

No music director would have claimed that they had been doing otherwise previous to the adoption of blind auditions. We can conclude that they were unaware of their bias. That is not surprising.

http://affectfinance.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/Goldin-Rouse-AER-2000.pdf



So when you claim, as you do, that "women are different from men" which they are, it is not at all clear that you do so in an unbiased manner, free from the historic, cultural biases which you learned. When you set up a metric of performance, and define what a "good performance" is, and then measure the performers, you do so with the knowledge of who the performers are...

and you can claim that your assessment is unbiased, after all, you are a master climber. But you should not be surprised to find that perhaps you have a biased view, and that all those words that you use, "truth," "undeniable," "equal," "advantage," are affected by that bias.

If feminism is anything, it is the work of untangling these biases, recognizing the merits of everyone in an unbiased way, and providing equal opportunities to all.
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Jan 21, 2017 - 11:13am PT
Rising out of the biased, blind masses came the one eyed person.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 21, 2017 - 11:20am PT
I threw it in there mostly for entertainment, and to balance the perspectives of ... that have been voiced within this thread against the other extreme.

sound's like Fox News, "fair and balanced" and entertaining...
gee, do they have any women anchors there anymore? the didn't seemed so amused I guess.

You trivialize the re--post as "entertainment" by which I assume I am supposed to not take it seriously, then you point out that there is a "bit of truth" to it, I further assume that you mean to say that it is serious.

So you are being a clown? entertaining us? perhaps you see it as the role of a jester, someone who plays the fool to spear the "politically correct"? You do so from a rather safe vantage point, there is no risk to you for making your point.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 21, 2017 - 11:29am PT
"extreme" is an interesting word:
ex·treme
ikˈstrēm
adjective
1. reaching a high or the highest degree; very great.
2. furthest from the center or a given point; outermost.
...

you had a hand in climbing some of the "extreme" routes in the Valley, back in your day... yet today, they do not seem so extreme.

the standards have changed in climbing.

might they not also change with regard to our biases? does not that change come from those who might be characterized as "being extreme?"
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 21, 2017 - 11:32am PT
you "re-posted" the Urbandictionary "definition"
you had some choice as to what to post to define "antifeminist"

this one from the Wikipedia article on that topic, re-posted here:

Antifeminism is broadly defined as opposition to some or all forms of feminism. This opposition has taken various forms across time and cultures. For example, antifeminists in the late 1800s and early 1900s resisted women's suffrage, while antifeminists in the late 20th century opposed the Equal Rights Amendment.[1][2] Antifeminism may be motivated by the belief that feminist theories of patriarchy and disadvantages suffered by women in society are incorrect or exaggerated;[3][4] that feminism as a movement encourages misandry and results in harm or oppression of men; or driven by general opposition towards women's rights.[5][6][7][8]
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antifeminism

you didn't choose that one, why?
c wilmot

climber
Jan 21, 2017 - 11:35am PT
Feminism sounds great if you never had to deal with it. Having had to listen to my feminist teachers rant about their ex husbands and how all males were evil I can say that feminists are often the most biased people. These same teachers tormented the tomboy of my class for being the "wrong" type of girl. When they accused her of being our gang leader she dropped out.

At this point it's just another word ending in Ism to describe a hateful attitude and set of beliefs.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 21, 2017 - 11:42am PT
Believing in God is one thing, believing that those who don't are evil is another.

indeed
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 21, 2017 - 12:23pm PT
Thanks for the photos from this historic day Sycorax, esp that last one.

I'm glad that article led to these discussions. I wish that same article had been less of a draft and more of a finished piece. I'm still not convinced that it's trying to say the things that are being read into it. Hopefully that will be clearer in her next piece.

Climbing is natural, elemental and intrinsic in the human soul. The contemporary 'rules' or styles in climbing are always arbitrary and unnatural. Thats true in every era.

Climbing is individual. We each have strengths and weakness, advantages and problem areas. I climb largely with women partners. I don't think gender is the biggest dividing line in climbing. Differences in motivation, experience, and time spent at the "Crag" matter more.

Off to pull some outdoor plastic in the drizzling, 40° air, something I wouldn't have imagined myself or anyone else, doing when I started doing this fifty odd years ago.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 21, 2017 - 01:13pm PT
Let's try to put some rubber on the road here, shall we? (No sarcasm intended).
You all are expressing a broad range of opinions here, so this is as good a place as any to solicit one.


Background:

I was asked to do a historical narrative for an upcoming publication about climbing in Yosemite National Park during a specific time frame.


The prologue:

Two old friends, both women, both present in the melting pot of Yosemite and the Meadows during this timeframe, recently visited my home. Back in the day, they were part of a group of young women who worked, hung out, and played together. I asked them about some of the others and how they were doing.

To paraphrase the answer I received, "We get together from time to time. We joke about ourselves. And we say: Yo Babes unite!"

To which I responded, "Wow. *Yo Babes*. That's colorful. A contraction of Yosemite Babes? I get it. You actually call or called yourselves that?"

"Well, yeah, we still do, Roy."

"How did that come about?"

"Some guys used to call us the Yo Bettys, and we didn't really like it. Somebody came up with Yo Babes, and we liked that better so that's what we started calling ourselves."


The fulcrum:

I included the term Yo Babes in my story, to identify this particular group of friends and place them in my narrative. One of my fact checkers suggested that this was sexist. And further suggested, historically accurate though Yo Babes may be, as it is sexist, it is inappropriate for modern publication. Another casual editor suggested: Yes, Roy, you might want to omit that as a matter of *tone checking* yourself.

BITD, I wasn't even aware of this Yo Babes moniker, but I was certainly aware of this group of young women. Now that I have a name which circumscribes their group, it's quite useful as a device for including them in my story. I figure since they currently refer to themselves by the name Yo Babes, and also did BITD, that it is fair game.

My thought is that Betty is a gender specific slang primarily adopted by males, but that Babe is not, because it can refer to a boy or a girl, a man or a woman. So this is why I suspect my girlfriends are okay with Yo Babes when they use it to identify themselves as an independent and cohesive group.


The question:

Am I being insensitive and sexist by including this group of young women in my story under the banner of Yo Babes? Is it inappropriate?

(Not a rhetorical question. I'm looking for considered opinions on usage here.)
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 21, 2017 - 01:22pm PT
we are often surprised by our own biases...

http://fivethirtyeight.com/features/how-unconscious-sexism-could-help-explain-trumps-win/

I took this test: http://implicit.harvard.edu/implicit/user/agg/blindspot/indexgc.htm

the result:
Your data suggest a strong automatic association of MALE with career and FEMALE with family.



which I was not surprised at... but which I am (and was) aware of... which is to say I am highly suspicious of my own judgements regarding the topic.

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 21, 2017 - 03:57pm PT
Well, if not Yo Babes, Kevin, I have to substitute Yo Babes with those young women (girls) that hung out and didn't really climb so much, but were totally a part of THE SCENE.

Or I have to name them individually. Either option is clumsy, or likely to be inaccurate.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jan 21, 2017 - 04:05pm PT
Pushing the limits of climbing is an ongoing positive progression with no downside...


This left coast centric forum doesn't represent

Actually, tens of millions of women around the world protesting this very day say you're wrong. And it's pretty f*#king sad that in 2017 tens of millions of women around the world felt compelled to march in protest of this very shit:



Or as our own dear Callie puts it:

cat t.

climber
california
Jan 21, 2017 - 04:44pm PT
Tarbuster,
I'd just include the story of how they picked the name. In context it doesn't seem insensitive. It sounds like, by choosing "babes" for themselves, they got both an amusing name for their group and a way to make fun of the patronizing name someone else had labeled them with.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 21, 2017 - 04:49pm PT
Thanks, Cat.

You are correct. My problem (and my editor's problem) with explaining how they got their name, is there is perhaps too much artifice there in doing that, which makes it clunky, and it distracts from the flow of the overall context of the story. But it's on the table as a consideration and I appreciate your taking a crack at it!

What I do say is that the women were self-styled as the Yo Babes, which indicates that they named themselves.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jan 21, 2017 - 05:44pm PT
Tarbuster, the self-styled phrasing is adequate.
Not every single reader will notice or probably deem it worth mentioning.
You should roll with that, Yo Dude.
Tell your editors I said so.
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Jan 21, 2017 - 06:21pm PT

Tootsie
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 21, 2017 - 07:50pm PT
Roy what if you just say that "Yo Babes" was a title they called themselves? Is that so long a way to run?
cat t.

climber
california
Jan 21, 2017 - 07:50pm PT
Tarbuster, I think it's fine with only the "self-styled;" was that included when your editors commented?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 21, 2017 - 08:10pm PT
Yes, Cat, both my editors, (two women), and the fact checker, who is an ardent feminist, first encountered the characters in the text, at the beginning of a sentence, as <The self-styled "Yosemite Babes" or "Yo Babes" [did xyz]>

It was the feminist fact checker, and her husband, who took umbrage with my usage of Yo Babes. I value their collective input, so I'm taking a hard look at it. Both editors, and five other women who read the piece, found no problem with it.

Jay, the reason I don't say they named themselves is that I don't want to get into explaining, because it draws unnecessary attention to the choice of phrase and hangs up the flow by creating an issue. If I predicate them as self-styled it is more fluid.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jan 21, 2017 - 09:04pm PT
hey there say, tarbuster...

i am too simple, and perhaps too easy-going, as to all this...
not sure why--perhaps from growing up in my home?

so, i am not sure if what i say helps, but:

i really feel that you will do well and you will/and DO, have a good gut-feeling,
as to how to do your article... :)
you have a good heart, and conscience, and, may all go well...


say, can you use a footnote, or something, as to anything that might not
be understood as to how you mean it? would THAT still let the writing
go smooth, if you need to still go over this?


whewwwww, it is so hard to please everyone, we all know that...


best wishes to what you do...


i admire when folks try to do the best that they can,
in the light of so many different trains of thought, and
serious issues, or, personal issues of others, that
writers run into... very hard, harder than folks realize...


happy good eve to you, tarbuster!
rbord

Boulder climber
atlanta
Jan 21, 2017 - 09:07pm PT
They feel things more strongly and acutely .. it's one of the things that makes a woman irresistibly attractive.

The feeling that you feel as a man is that you are irresistibly attracted to a woman? But a woman, as a woman, would feel that feeling even more strongly and acutely? What would that be - irresistibly irresistibly attractive?

Yea, sure, ok ...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 21, 2017 - 09:32pm PT
Thanks Neebs!
And a warm happy hug and a good evening to you!

..........................................................

Ed was on target when he said:
If feminism is anything, it is the work of untangling these biases, recognizing the merits of everyone in an unbiased way, and providing equal opportunities to all.

Though I am slightly removing Ed's sentence from its context, I selected it because of his usage of the word untangling. Untangling is the operative here.

Here's how I see it: you name something, or more importantly, someone, then by some measure, you control this thing or person. Probably this has to do with object relations. Feminists (and notably any discrete groups undergoing oppression) are particularly sensitive to labeling and categorizing because there is at play an element of objectification and subjugation. Or the feeling of it.

When boys call girls "Bettys", the girls probably feel they are being quantified, coveted in an object relation way, and therefore controlled, and no longer regarded as persons.

Why should "babes" be any different? Is it because it's not a twist of a female first name? Partly I think this is so, for the Yo Babes. But it mostly has to do with who is doing the naming to begin with. If I name myself, I am in control. If someone else names me, I may feel they have taken control.

But if I use the name women have taken for themselves, and refer to them accordingly, as in Yo Babes, in historical context even, I'm now being sexist or somehow naïvely or intentionally supporting sexism?

This is a tangle! (I'd like to hear opinions about my usage quandary in my writing from more women who consider themselves feminists). It's a tangle for sure, and also illustrative of the broader issue being discussed here in this topic.

Somewhere in the text of Davita's piece, or in the piece she referenced, it was tabled that "babes" has become unacceptable usage for men when they refer to women. It's on the list of improprieties.

Ed, Kevin: instead of using the term "extreme feminist" in your dialogue, how about substituting extreme with fanatical, or absolutist?

It's true, bigotry, sexism, racism, ultimately benefits no one, in the long run. But in support of what Kevin has been getting at, isn't it plain that every worthy movement has its outliers which beg to be delimited in some fashion, at some point along the arc toward fanaticism? Otherwise don't we all court absurdities at the far end? In a word, reverse discrimination? In my one read through of Davita's piece, this is what I saw as her message.

She first had to survey her territory, so this is where her writing seems to meander, but in doing so, she opens up other issues which have also been discussed here.

Namely: do guys just make themselves a doormat to any fanatical ruling coming their way for the next 100 years in the interest of setting things straight for all? I can't see that working.
WBraun

climber
Jan 21, 2017 - 09:35pm PT
recognizing the merits of everyone in an unbiased way, and providing equal opportunities to all.

That's not "feminism"

Feminism is just another "ism"

It's far far higher than that .....
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 21, 2017 - 09:54pm PT
For sure, Kevin. I have that duty.

I also recognize that if a writer seeks too much counsel, other people will be writing the work for her/him!

I get that. But I thought this was a good quandary to broach, in context of our discussion, because, as Ed suggested, we must be willing to question our own assumptions, and when someone tells me I'm being sexist, I take a good hard look at it.
Ken M

Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
Jan 21, 2017 - 09:56pm PT
The word babe for instance. I see it as a term of affection, or as a description of a beautiful woman, feminists see it as a belittling, sexually suggestive term. So we disagree. Which interpretation is more positive and loving, and which is more negative and combative? Hardcore Feminists want to impose their perspectives and standards on men and their fellow women, a effort that denies equal rights.

Well, it all depends on your perspective, BOY. After all, BOY, one has to factor in what you mean, and what it means to your target.

BOY, a term of affection to someone with whom you have no specific relationship, is often unwelcome. See how comfortable you are with the waitstaff calling your wife "Babe".

Context is everything, BOY. You may not like being called "boy". You may be black, for all I know, in which case it would be particularly insulting. But it's use generally means "to put you in your place".

My experience with professional women, is that when they are addressed by a man by such endearments, unless they are CLOSE personal friends, is immediate repulsion. It's sort of the verbal equivalent of grabbing them by the TRUMP. Something they might enjoy their partner doing is NOT acceptable behavior for anyone else. And it's up to them to decide, not you.
nah000

climber
no/w/here
Jan 21, 2017 - 09:58pm PT
TB: if the definition of feminism is the securing of equal rights for "women" and "men" then it would be an arrogant step too far to censor the self identification of a particular group of women. end stop.

other women [and/or men] may not like "yo babes" just like some non-het/cis don't like other non-het/cis reclaming "queer", "tranny", etc.

question always comes back to who is doing the naming... because if this is truly about equality than the ultimate equality is always going to be the ability to self-identify regardless what an outside individual/group says/thinks...



i.e. the circular definition at the end of the one article that was posted [feminism is about equality, ergo it cannot go too far] is in practice and imesho bull shIt.



your situation is a perfect example of feminist thought going too far. just because [one/some? of] your editors don't approve of the self identification made by other women doesn't mean they should be rewriting history and controlling the self identification of other women...

the moment we do that is the moment we over correct and throw the car into a spin headed for the opposite ditch than it was originally headed.



that said kudos to you for being cognizant [and sorry you've got another amab responding, even if my life has been pretty engaged with identity politics]

best of luck and look forward to reading your story.
Ken M

Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
Jan 21, 2017 - 09:58pm PT
the potential for death should be there.

I don't know about this. I'm not sure I'm on board with gladiator-type mayhem.

In the last 100 years, only 2 olympians died in competition, and both were from not drinking enough water:

Francisco Lázaro (21), Portugal – Runner – 1912, Stockholm – electrolyte imbalance[1]
Knut Jensen (23), Denmark – Cyclist – 1960, Rome – heat stroke[2]
Ken M

Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
Jan 21, 2017 - 10:17pm PT
But if I use the name women have taken for themselves, and refer to them accordingly, as in Yo Babes, in historical context even, I'm now being sexist or somehow naïvely or intentionally supporting sexism?

Probably the best way is to put it in quotes, which indicates that it comes from them, not from you. You might want to include a short sentence following the first use "which might not be used today".

I the situation where you are trying to report factual things, I think inclusion of such a thing gives a context to the group at the time.

Does the use of "Yo Babes" represent a grovelling, so that the participants can be laughed at and accepted by the male group? Who knows? Such things certainly happen.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 21, 2017 - 11:30pm PT
Ai yi yi, amigos, am I the only one that glazes over as soon as I see that Ed is posting?

probably not...
ecdh

climber
the east
Jan 22, 2017 - 12:42am PT
i suppose this fits here....

last winter i attempted to co-instigate a womens ice climbing trip to iran, a country with a reputation for many things including where women fit into society. the initial idea was greeted with some interest from more than 2 well known lady climbers and women who move and shake within the climbing world. their names will not be mentioned.

much more enthusiastic was the contribution from women climbers in iran. a strong contingency they out climb most iranian men at a comp level. they welcomed foreign women to hang out and train with them, in part as men and women training together in iran raises eyebrows amongst the athlete community, tho its irrelevant when actually climbing. the issue seems to arise when things get serious enough for the mountaineering associations to be involved. perhaps thats not surprising.

it must be said male climbers in iran were enthusiastic once the idea got clarity.
western men did little more than wince at the idea...
my own role was nothing more than a cheerleader for women, iran and interesting ice climbing. id do my bit to help, but the gig was what the ladies wanted it to be.

anyway, very rapidly the sponsors of our great lady climbers gave an outright no - despite those same companies sponsoring women climbers in iran. not wanting to go rogue, the ladies just complied - a debate unto itself. the idea of going unsponsored met with zero interest...

in the end, what happened was some non-famous, non-sponsored climbers went, had a great time climbing with iranian women and men, and basically did what our industry wouldnt support. there was no big agenda, no one got taken hostage, no politics, no revolutionary guards, no problems. they did more for hands-across-the-divide than most leaders have done. did i mention they ate like royalty and skied, climbed rock and got some alpine in too?

so feminism, cowardice and bigotry in climbing....? it goes to the f*#king core.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jan 22, 2017 - 01:20am PT
do guys just make themselves a doormat to any fanatical ruling coming their way for the next 100 years in the interest of setting things straight for all? I can't see that working.

You mean utterly fanatical rulings like women having the vote? Equal access to education? Equal pay for equal work? Contraceptive and reproductive rights? Paid parental leave? And, yeah, that sort of thing might well open the door to even more fanatical things like paying tribes more than pennies on the dollar they currently settle on for all our endless treaty abrogations and serial thefts of tribal resources.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 22, 2017 - 07:09am PT
No, I don't mean any of those things, Healyje, Joseph.
Not even by a long shot, so thanks for seeking clarification.

You make it seem a fool's errand to speak plainly about the notion that there are practical and reasonable limits to the tactics employed in the faithful and productive execution of what I hold to be a valid and essential stiving, and one of the most vitally important movements of our times, and throw me on the other side of the fence to support your argument.

You paint me a misogynist and a racist. Why do that?

Here is what I said at the beginning of the thread:
This isn't to say that issues like gender and race relations don't still have some ways to go toward resolution.
Her [Davita's] point is: don't be petty and choose your battles. This doesn't weaken the cause, it strengthens it.

*Maybe Jay is right, and my reading comprehension is off, and it's not what Davita Gurian said.
But it's what I'm saying.

Bruce Hildenbrand: really good of you to post up the article and get this thread going.
For my part, I don't seek the perspectives of the younger generation as much as I might. Thanks everyone.

Cheers,
Roy
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jan 22, 2017 - 09:05am PT
Roy, I guess because I still very much have a hard time with this characterization:

do guys just make themselves a doormat to any fanatical ruling coming their way for the next 100 years in the interest of setting things straight for all? I can't see that working.

My post was a request for clarification, maybe a bit rough, but yesterday being the day that it was I could have be a bit sensitive about the issue. So more explicitly then, what exactly would you consider a 'fanatical ruling'?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 22, 2017 - 09:35am PT
I'm not going to play cat and mouse, Joseph.
You supported me on my medical issue thread, with much of your tactful analysis and intellectual grit, and I can't see that we are philosophically ill-aligned on the major issues in this thread.

Please go reread the full post from which you took the excerpt.
My example is there. And it's in my prior request of the readers here to help me with a small writing challenge.
WBraun

climber
Jan 22, 2017 - 09:40am PT
Healyje

If you think that Roy is a misogynist and a racist, then you are definitely projecting some very serious garbage and hate coming from inside your very own self.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 22, 2017 - 11:16am PT
A man.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
Jan 22, 2017 - 01:18pm PT
It has to do with power. Women get assaulted raped and murdered by men, not the other way around. That is the same reason you don't call Black men boys. It was white men who enslaved and lynched them, not the other way around. It's offensive to call sports teams after Native Americans, especially since most sports teams are named after animals. That's because genocide was practiced against Native Americans as though they were animals rather than humans, not the other way around.

I find it amazing that some men can't see the discrepancy in power in this situations. They might argue that rock climbers don't rape and murder women so it's ok to call them by the names of men who do, but I don't think most women would appreciate that distinction.

Women can call themselves babes, Black men can call themselves boys and even the N word, but white men can't. You maybe weren't involved, but white men were. That's just a sad historical fact.

That said, I personally think the fact checker in Roy's case is being overly sensitive if he specifies that Yo Babes is what the Yosemite women called themselves and that is made clear. To me, the question for him, is whether he wants to risk being raked over the coals in letters to the editor by other women who think similarly to the fact checker. Some battles are not worth fighting but It's his call.
cat t.

climber
california
Jan 22, 2017 - 01:55pm PT
Tarbuster (and Jan as well), your thoughts on naming are spot-on. As for what's on the "list of improprieties," as you put it, I think the list of truly off-limits words is exceptionally short. I would think "babe" falls more into the "annoying" category. It would be obnoxious to call every pretty young waitress "babe" or name your pre-teen's soccer team the "Ball Babes," but I am surprised that it would be found to be offensive in historical context.

Namely: do guys just make themselves a doormat to any fanatical ruling coming their way for the next 100 years in the interest of setting things straight for all? I can't see that working.

No, but I think most of the examples leveled here don't qualify as "fanatical rulings." Erring on the side of caution and politeness does not hurt anyone. I think your response to your fact-checker is the exact appropriate one: you've examined your own intent, and also thought carefully about why someone else might be offended. Criticisms of word choice are often met with far more hostility than you've displayed. The default response to concern about phrasing usually communicates, "no, your concerns are invalid; you are not qualified to interpret my meaning and take offense." Complete dismissal of a person's concerns do not advance understanding, but it is valid for you to consider why someone might take offense at your words and ultimately decide that you believe your intended audience will understand your intent.

As for things that might actually be "fanatical rulings"--I think it's important to stay grounded in reality here. You can find obscure corners of the internet that believe ANYTHING. I'm sure there are angry women on Tumblr who actually hate men, but holding the fringe up as an example of how feminism is too radical or out of touch would be like thinking homeopath-anti-vaxxers represent the views of all west-coast liberals. At the moment we still live in a society that wants to deny basic reproductive rights to women.

Edit: I also like neebee's idea of a footnote. I love footnotes.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
Jan 22, 2017 - 02:09pm PT
http://www.baffinbabes.com/about/

A name they chose for themselves, mind. And Norway is a rather different place than the USA, having had several female prime ministers, and with about half of all elected officials women for some time.
cat t.

climber
california
Jan 22, 2017 - 02:56pm PT
And Norway is a rather different place than the USA, having had several female prime ministers, and with about half of all elected officials women for some time.

The words that hold negative, sexist power in the USA would not be expected have the same weight in a society that is considerably less sexist.

(Even within the US, the experiences of different economic groups are very different--hence the term "intersectionality." Those experiences are going to result in varied responses to the same negative stimulus. My experience as a middle class white woman is very different than that of a woman of color or a transgender woman or a disabled woman or an economically disadvantaged woman. White feminism undeniably has its own extensive history of exclusion.)

Edit: Tarbuster wrote
Her [Davita's] point is: don't be petty and choose your battles. This doesn't weaken the cause, it strengthens it.
I think her position is a rather privileged one. (I realize the word "privilege" has taken on a complicated connotation recently, but it was the best word I could think of.) The sexism I encounter most frequently is dudes catcalling me when I'm riding my bike. It's not worth my time to worry about it. If I (white, PhD, Stanford) were to make that my cause, it might seem petty, but I can very easily put myself in the shoes of women who DON'T live in a liberal haven who would be rightfully afraid of violence from the men who constantly catcall them, and their complaints are far from petty.
cat t.

climber
california
Jan 22, 2017 - 03:22pm PT
the particular relationship between the individuals involved
Understanding the particular relationship between two individuals is key to ANY successful communication. You could probably joke about fighting a friend, but if you said the exact same words to a stranger they'd assume you were literally trying to start a fight.

The burden of responsibility to create an equal society does not lie solely on the shoulders of women.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
Jan 22, 2017 - 05:31pm PT
And btw Jan, women do murder and assault men.


And this is just the same argument given for discriminating against any other group too. Just because one out of a hundred murders is a woman against a man, doesn't excuse the other 99. Some Native Americans brutalized white folks in very savage ways, but that doesn't excuse the general process of genocide.

You girls gotta give a little to get what you want.

I'm sure you didn't mean it this way, but I've heard that statement many times in regard to giving men sex and getting something in return. My generation of feminists said no thanks, we'll work 2 or 3 times harder than a man to get to the same place. The next generation said, why should we have to?

The third generation is saying we don't even want to hear mention of it. The burden of responsibility to create an equal society does not lie solely on the shoulders of women.
cat t.

climber
california
Jan 22, 2017 - 06:08pm PT
When was the last time you heard a man complain about sexist treatment?
You, endlessly... Also from men all over the internet, constantly. The internet is a whiny place, though.

but there are societal biases against men that are well entrenched in our society and sexist by the dictionary definition of the word. I never hear feminists acknowledge that
Who are you talking about? Who are these feminists that you think you know? As a self-identified feminist who is friends with pretty much only self-identified feminists, I can guarantee you that we talk about these things all the time. Paternal leave is even harder to come by than the insufficient maternal leave given in the US. Why can women opt out of having a child, but men cannot? (Consensus amongst my peer group is that while legislation is still being enacted to create huge obstacles for women seeking abortions, or even birth control, men should help with the financial burden, but given open access to birth control, men should be able to sign away both parental rights and financial responsibility.) Why are male kids lagging behind in school? Why are middle aged white men plagued by such high suicide rates? We talk about these things just as much as we talk about the issues that affect women. Here types a feminist, telling you I care about societal biases against men, and you still insist that you know better, that feminists only care about power over men?

I'm sure you didn't mean it this way, but I've heard that statement many times in regard to giving men sex and getting something in return. My generation of feminists said no thanks, we'll work 2 or 3 times harder than a man to get to the same place. The next generation said, why should we have to?

The third generation is saying we don't even want to hear mention of it.

The later generations still have to meet higher standards to get to the same place, but because our moms did it first, we know it is possible (and thus it's not quite as hard).
cat t.

climber
california
Jan 22, 2017 - 06:17pm PT
The crazy thing is is that feminists love to be objectified in just the right circumstances with just the right person.
Wow, are you insinuating that women who don't want to be catcalled on the street by random men like to have sex with their boyfriends (or girlfriends/husbands/wives)?! THE HARLOTS!
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
Jan 22, 2017 - 07:22pm PT
Each gender sees the situation from our own perspective.

Personally, it does not give me much consolation that of all the murders in the U.S. during a certain time frame, only 23% of them had women as their objects. I'm fairly sure the rape statistics would give me even less consolation.

And yes, emotions and intuitions are particularly important for a woman being accosted by an unknown man. Many of us if not most of us, have stories of when things just didn't seem right and we took action before we were overcome. In some cases this meant simply crossing the street and asking another woman or a couple to walk with us. Sometimes we fled for our lives, sometimes (in my case) I unsheathed my old fashioned long handled super sharp ice axe and prepared to fight to the death.

Granted, I may have had more encounters of this type than most since I traveled around the world on my own as a young single woman. Bangkok and India were scary at times, but I have been physically put upon more often in the Bay Area actually. I was standing on street corners late at night in San Francisco waiting for street cars when the Zebra killers were operating. One of my most enlightening moments was late at night when a carload of guys who could have been them pulled up and started harassing myself and two other women, one of whom pulled a pistol out of her purse and chased them away.

Maybe the woman you think is overly sensitive has had such an experience. It might be worth keeping in mind before getting upset at her for being overly sensitive.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 22, 2017 - 07:33pm PT
Maybe the woman you think is overly sensitive has had such an experience. It might be worth keeping in mind before getting upset at her for being overly sensitive.
This is it, in a nutshell. The last time I checked, 15 or 20 years ago, the statistic for young women who were surveyed for some form of familial sexual abuse history, whether by a father or an uncle, or brother or whomever was close, was somewhere in the 30% range. Blew my mind. Somebody check me on those stats, but it's significant.
cat t.

climber
california
Jan 22, 2017 - 08:16pm PT
The sexism towards men in our society that I experience has nothing to do with abortion or parental leave. Those are issues that indirectly affect women, and as such, are an understsndable topic amongst your feminist friends. What about the draft? What about false accusations of sexual assault or harassment? What about restraining orders against men requested by women? What about the difference in courtesy shown to men at many places of business? What about unequal societal expectations of income, alimony in divorce, and obligations in dating?

I think that all issues that affect men indirectly affect women, and all issues that affect women indirectly affect men. Policies that oppress women have negative effects on men, and as we try to untangle these biases and create more equal policies, I think it's not surprising to expect some oscillations around the ideal.

Selective service? Women should be required to register. Most of the women I think that no one should be required to, but as long as men are, so should women.

False accusations of sexual harassment? I think we're at a weird spot, historically. Sexual harassment in the workplace has been overlooked for so long, and assault is drastically under-reported. Obviously due process should be afforded to anyone accused of a sexual crime. I can't think of some magical clearcut legal solution here. All prosecutions are going to have some false positive rate, and eyewitness testimonies are generally rife with errors. I think we both know, though, that historically, there have been far more victims (both men and women) hurt by sexual assault than there have been false convictions. When names are released to the public, yes, there are a lot of angry people who care more about accusations than facts...kind of all a landmine.

Unequal societal expectations in marriage, dating, alimony, courtesy at places of business: this is where I think it's the most double-edged. In the paradigm in which men are thought to be brutal aggressors and women are thought to be delicate emotional creatures, then you are going to get this terrible dichotomy in which neither women nor men are held to their full potential. We fail both sexes. If you put someone on a pedestal and insist they cannot care for themselves, what do you think is gonna happen? If you insist that someone is not allowed to show weakness, what do you think is gonna happen?

Feminism includes thinking that women can be awful. Women are capable of brutality; women are capable of evil. Women are not delicate flowers that commit no harm. Women don't need to be taken care of, and they're better off when they take care of themselves. You can't have it both ways.
cat t.

climber
california
Jan 22, 2017 - 08:26pm PT
As an aside, why are facts and emotions always presented as being some sort of mutually exclusive choice? They can be pretty darn orthogonal.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 22, 2017 - 09:01pm PT
She said orthogonal Kev, are you just gonnah stand here all awkward and cocked at a right angle and take that?
(Facts and emotions are a tangle, not so independent)

I reread Davita's piece from the OP. Just as I saw on the first read through, she confines her query to her particular milieu, i.e. twentysomethings+ and rockclimbing. Her prose is direct and relatively clean. Yes, Cat, she's privileged under the vernacular you espoused. The extension of her findings doesn't reach beyond those boundaries. She speaks about the fringe, as you alluded. And she's hoping it stays there (and flattens out). It's less an overarching critique on the current state of feminism in total.

Thanks, Cat, for the nod to the idea of footnoting. My nephew, who is in a graduate philosophy program, suggested the same, even for simple historical narrative.

Pretty much everything I've heard from you and Jan concerning my earlier questions about my writing challenge comports with my thinking. Not that it should or ought to, but it does, so thanks for your perspectives.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 22, 2017 - 09:01pm PT

This is it, in a nutshell. The last time I checked, 15 or 20 years ago, the statistic for young women who were surveyed for some form of familial sexual abuse history, whether by a father or an uncle, or brother or whomever was close, was somewhere in the 30% range. Blew my mind. Somebody check me on those stats, but it's significant.


The Warbler

That's what I've heard too Roy, and I've had many women tell me about it happening to them.
I suspect a lot of feminist angst is rooted there.


not sure what you meant here, but sexual assault isn't just about "angst," it is a fact of life for women.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 22, 2017 - 09:10pm PT
When I heard that stat, Ed, it made my skin crawl.
COT

climber
Door Number 3
Jan 22, 2017 - 09:31pm PT
Good (IMO) follow up article by Andrew Bisharat
http://eveningsends.com/celebrating-women-and-climbing/
BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2017 - 11:16am PT
This whole "words matter" topic isn't just reserved for feminists. In any conversation, verbal or written, whether it be between family members, significant others, co-workers, friends, enemies, etc. there exists the potential for hurting someone with the words we have chosen to use. This can be intentional or unintentional, but it still may leave the person feeling slighted. And it is sometimes difficult to know exactly what those words are. Maybe there needs to be some understanding on both sides of the exchange.
cat t.

climber
california
Jan 23, 2017 - 03:21pm PT
The extension of her findings doesn't reach beyond those boundaries. She speaks about the fringe, as you alluded. And she's hoping it stays there (and flattens out). It's less an overarching critique on the current state of feminism in total.
Yes, you're right about that. I agree that she was not attempting to comment on the state of feminism--but I do worry that those primed to vilify feminism would read it that way.

My initial post in this thread, on page one, was as follows:
What about this alternative to the "climbing is totally sexist and racist to boot"/"sexism and racism in climbing is totally made up" debate:
Climbing itself is very open and welcoming and, in 2017 at least, is not particularly sexist or racist, but in society at large there still exist many pressures and implicit restrictions on women and minorities that might make them less likely to participate in activities such as climbing. Societal expectation might keep some people away from climbing, but climbing itself isn't sexist.

I still think that's the case, and I wonder if it's a bit negligent to claim that sexism isn't a problem in climbing without acknowledging that it might be a force acting from outside the community rather than one acting within it. That said, I think the Georgie-style "no matter what men do, they're doing it wrong," style of writing isn't helping anyone. It's great click-bait, sure, but it puts everyone on the offensive.

(I am also a little wary of the "but I've not experienced it, so it isn't happening!" argument that the OP article uses. I have personally never met with substantial sexism in the local climbing community, but I cannot really comment on what is happening outside the SF Bay area.)

Edit:
(Facts and emotions are a tangle, not so independent)
:) Ha, yes, for any given situation that is true. But I think the capacity for reason and the capacity for emotion are independent, or at the very least they are not inversely related.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 23, 2017 - 06:11pm PT
No, they, the capacity for reason and the capacity for emotion, are not, or not necessarily, inversely related. That would just be too much irony for one race to handle.

I think that these kinds of issues can hinge on a synthesis of the two, namely emotional intelligence. It's what keeps relationship and social interaction on the rails.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 23, 2017 - 08:16pm PT
I don't really do debate. By nature, I am more into understanding through collusion.

Not to say dialectic isn't essential. And the Cat/Warbler repartee really crackles. Just what kind of red meat do we need to toss up on the stage to get that show up and running again?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 23, 2017 - 09:14pm PT
Yes, Kevin, I'm surprised there isn't already a slot in the lexicon for FWA. First women's ascent. Plenty intuitive and less confusing than FFA. (And is it female first ascent or first female ascent, also distinctly different). Whether or not there should be an independent category to begin with is another matter, and I'm not touching that one for the moment.

We could get ourselves back in trouble (lots) by suggesting, FGA. First girl's ascent. But we'd quickly balance that out with a category just for you: FBA. First BOY ascent ... ha!

{edit}
Yes. Heh. Jefe, I think red meat for an argument, at least here, is the more apt alternative to the term click bait.

 and probably scant sex appeal to be had with old climber guys ranging into feminist thought.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jan 23, 2017 - 09:17pm PT
what kind of red meat do we need to toss up

Coming from tarbuster it sounded sexy for some reason.


ladyscarlett

Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
Jan 23, 2017 - 10:56pm PT
Huh.."feminism" was in the thread topic, so I decided to look in.

Strangely enough, nothing in the article, or all the responses got me fired up. I guess I'm not as much of a feminist as I thought I was.

Damn, one day, the inspiring writers will come back...

Cheers

LS
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jan 24, 2017 - 06:26am PT
You're starting to confuse yourself kevvy, one article at a time mmmkay?


drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jan 24, 2017 - 07:40am PT
It wasn't Georgie that "hijacked" the FFA thing, nor did she start the discussion.

That exchange and all the online responses were similar to this episode, with lots of "high profile"/ "influential"/ "pros", writers, editors,and bloggers weighing in.
I believe there was a supertopo thread during that time as well.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jan 24, 2017 - 08:12am PT
No we're not friends- I just like her zero f ucks style.
Mar'

Trad climber
Fanta Se
Feb 9, 2017 - 01:54pm PT
Awwww~ this is easy… to quote the Cramps, "How Far Can Too Far Go?"

heehee❤︎!!
Janet Wilts

Trad climber
Grand Teton National Park
Feb 9, 2017 - 02:19pm PT
Interesting thread
I think women are posting on how they perceive they are treated.

I always felt the climbing community (I'm old, so I'm talking 1970's and 1980's)treated us very well....I always found many more issues in the workplace then when I was climbing....
We were always encouraged to try climbs and were given Kudos if we did it...Whether leading or following....

But I can't speak for the generation now.....

Janet
AE

climber
Boulder, CO
Feb 10, 2017 - 03:32pm PT
In the referenced article, I read a very subtle distinction between the male and female spotters quoted:
female, “You can bail or try the crux, whatever you want to do, I’ve got you.”
male, “You’ll be fine, just do the move.”
Female? Clarifying, openly supporting the climber's choice, with an added promise of support.
Male? Declarative, assertive, judgmental, taking control away from the climber, and so indirectly taking over the climb.

Hypersensitive? I'm a 66 year old guy, and I have known a wide range of personalities; many loathed any outside input while climbing, well-intended or not. The dynamics between climbers varies, but between genders I saw more open acceptance and feminist mindset within the groups I knew forty plus years ago.
I feel the same over race relations today, as if a general cultural backlash against greater equality and advances is what drives the often vicious hate speech, polarizing us into paralysis. For mostly privileged young women climbing today it may be another "first world problem," but the lingering social baggage appears to be morphing into darker and more virulent realms. Don't have much insight to offer.
Listen to your partners; listen to strangers; try to express yourself honestly and respectfully. Don't become a bully; don't tolerate bullying. Woody Guthrie: "Take it easy, but take it."
cornel

climber
Lake Tahoe, Nevada
Feb 12, 2017 - 07:47am PT
Hats off to Davita, I found her article fascinating and very insightful as were many of the ST comments. Some hilarious photos too.. One insight that I gained in this reading was the continued evolution of feminism over the last several decades.. This expanding awareness I see is wonderful evidence of healthy societal growth. Yes, it is a fact that the majority of our society is still very violent, repressive, and unaware, led by men. Old men, in some cases Sad Old Men like Trump our Insane Clown President, a serial sexual asailant.., Kinda scary that this character is the leader of the Free world.. Yet, nonetheless Women are clearly making advances all be it at a glacial pace in most nations. Set backs are part of life. Feminism is no exception.
So what's a guy to do? Same as a gal, continue to meditate on life and right action.. expand ones awareness...
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Feb 12, 2017 - 10:16am PT
When I think of climbing, in its essence, it's scrambling upward with hands and feet in a natural environment. Trees, cliffs, mountains, creek beds, that kind of thing. I see climbing as a part of human life for as long as humans have evolved - to gather fruit, nuts and seeds from trees, to make a direct, time saving route through rugged terrain, to evade predators, and to attain vantage points when reconnoitering.


which male and female members had to do equally competently. From that standard, men and women inherited a basic ability to climb...

healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Feb 12, 2017 - 01:11pm PT
Anthony M. Ludovici? Really? He was also argued against democracy and for the superiority of aristocracy. And let's not get into nationalism and racism. Surely you can do better.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Feb 12, 2017 - 02:49pm PT
another student? apparently the current administration has some knowledge of... and a climber too,
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Julius_Evola

He held that "just relations between the sexes" involved women acknowledging their inequality with men.

but wait, there's more... and it goes under the guise of "Traditionalism"

hopefully that doesn't reflect your opinions either...

learning about it makes me want to reject the "Trad" label all together.
splitter

Trad climber
HighwayToHell
Feb 16, 2017 - 07:27pm PT
"Do unto others as you want them to do to you."
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
Feb 16, 2017 - 08:51pm PT
My mother explained this to me when I was in kindergarten or so.. she explained that women are different beings than men , that is women are more intelligent, more aware, and they have a full chromosome to carry those better traits. She explained that men lack a whole leg of the chromosome, so they cannot even tell when they are wrong or short sighted. She also explained that because of this women are the weavers of the fabric of society, arts and letters, diplomacy , social economics , health and welfare, education etc. Therefore men , being expendable, are hunters and warriors, because it doesn't make any great difference if they die in the process. Let that woolly mammoth take down a couple men because there will always be another one at the ready. Women will see to that in the raising of the children successfully, keeping the fabric of society intact. Men are welcome to be invited in because they are pleasing or worthy, and just as easily ushered out. Like buses, there's one by every few minutes. She explained to me that men will thump chests and expound on the inferiority of women because they lack that leg of the chromosome that gives them some perspective. So just let them have at it as they really are simply entertaining themselves since they don't have much else of any real importance to do. She said men will always compete, because they are not able to understand otherwise. She advised me to know my own legacy.

True story. Thank you, Mom.

Feb 14 Anniversary of Meltdown 5/14c Hardest valley trad climb until the Dawn Wall went free. Thank you Beth Rodden

ST has become so silly I hardly ever look at it anymore. Enjoy my post as I'm not likely to respond further. Cheers Y'all.
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Feb 16, 2017 - 09:05pm PT
^^ Lots of truth there, TFPU!

While the womenfolk were tending children and keeping house or cave, if you will.

In contemporary hunter gatherer societies men sit around shootin' the sh#t while women do the real work.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
Feb 17, 2017 - 12:16am PT
Women do most of the work in the majority of societies around the world, especially subsistence agriculture. In our own society, women currently outnumber men at universities.
Degaine

climber
Feb 17, 2017 - 09:57am PT
@Warbler,

While your efforts to try to understand are laudable, you continue barking up the wrong tree.

No one has ever claimed or tried to claim that men and women are the same biologically. Why do you continue to bring this ridiculous non-issue up?

Equality and equal opportunity under the law and treating everyone as an individual is what it boils down to. When hiring someone or roping up with them, consider the individual, not their gender, race, religion, sexual orientation, etc.


Averages are not worth the electrons they're typed with when you're face to face with an individual human being and their skills or accomplishments.

Just remember, neither you nor I (two men) have climbed the Nose free.

Cheers and good luck in your quest to find both understanding and peace of mind.
couchmaster

climber
Feb 17, 2017 - 05:48pm PT



For the win, nuff said, quote:

"My mother explained this to me when I was in kindergarten or so.. she explained that women are different beings than men , that is women are more intelligent, more aware, and they have a full chromosome to carry those better traits. She explained that men lack a whole leg of the chromosome, so they cannot even tell when they are wrong or short sighted. She also explained that because of this women are the weavers of the fabric of society, arts and letters, diplomacy , social economics , health and welfare, education etc. Therefore men , being expendable, are hunters and warriors, because it doesn't make any great difference if they die in the process. Let that woolly mammoth take down a couple men because there will always be another one at the ready. Women will see to that in the raising of the children successfully, keeping the fabric of society intact. Men are welcome to be invited in because they are pleasing or worthy, and just as easily ushered out. Like buses, there's one by every few minutes. She explained to me that men will thump chests and expound on the inferiority of women because they lack that leg of the chromosome that gives them some perspective. So just let them have at it as they really are simply entertaining themselves since they don't have much else of any real importance to do. She said men will always compete, because they are not able to understand otherwise. She advised me to know my own legacy.

True story. Thank you, Mom.

Feb 14 Anniversary of Meltdown 5/14c Hardest valley trad climb until the Dawn Wall went free. Thank you Beth Rodden

ST has become so silly I hardly ever look at it anymore. Enjoy my post as I'm not likely to respond further. Cheers Y'all."
Degaine

climber
Feb 28, 2017 - 03:17am PT
@Warbler,

Thanks for your reply.

Warbler wrote:
I understand the difference between men and women, what I don't understand are claims that feminist climbers make that women are equal in climbing performance to men across the climbing spectrum.

Who is actually making that claim?

No one is even making the claim that men are equal across the entire climbing spectrum. Jeff Mercier would probably have a hard time sending Chris Sharma's warm-ups, as Chris would have a hard time with Jeff's multiple hard mixed ice/dry-tooling first ascents.

Repeats of the Bachar-Yerian get quite a bit of press and attention even though the route's technical difficulty is far below today's standards for the elite climber. As do free repeats of routes on El Cap even though significantly below the Dawn Wall or the Nose in difficulty. Even with regard to the Nose, the Caldwell/Rodden, Caldwell (alone), and Verhoeven repeats also received considerable attention.

So why should a female ascent/repeat of any hard, legendary, or other noteworthy route be any different? Such a big affront to you?



I'm getting really tired of being reminded that my friend Lynn did the FFA of The Nose when these feminist climbers try to prove that women are equal to or better than men when climbing at the uppermost levels. Lynn admits herself her small fingers and body size are advantageous on the cruxes of The Nose. It was still an amazing feat and one of the milestones in the evolution of freeclimbing. However, virtually every other milestone in the evolution of freeclimbing has been accomplished by males. That makes Lynn's ascent, however outstanding, an anomaly.

Bolded by me.

You get tired of being reminded of Lynn's historic ascent and then you pull out the clearly sexist small-fingers-excuse clap trap we're all tired of hearing ad nauseam? 24 years later you still think the "small fingers" excuse for men not having freed it first is legitimate? She's what, barely 5'2"? Would you be okay with her (or any other female climber for that matter) using her height as an excuse for not sending a given hard route?

Anomaly? What's your excuse for Rodden's FFA of "Meltdown"? Her blond hair gave her a distinct advantage?

While I don't know Lynn, I have worked with and for very successful women in business, and been witness to similar "small-finger" excuses their male counterparts or colleagues make to feel more secure in their own shortcomings or difficulty in simply accepting their female colleagues as competent individuals. A former boss's (woman) usual tactic was to finally agree in order to move on and get things done.

Maybe Lynn "admits" so that you'll stop talking and start belaying?
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Feb 28, 2017 - 05:05am PT
From Warbler's link:

"Those that are constantly characteristic of her are: (1) duplicity and an indifference to truth, (2) lack of taste, (3) vulgarity, (4) love of petty power, (5) vanity and (6) sensuality."


If one were to take this stuff seriously, (1)-(5) would strongly suggest that Trump is a woman.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Mar 4, 2017 - 08:33pm PT
Climbing or otherwise, women are awesome in so many aspects of life....as well are men. Cheers and enjoy the life you have. lynnie
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Mar 4, 2017 - 09:04pm PT
Not sure who freed what, but I have my $ on WARbeezy in a bar fight.
MikeL

Social climber
Southern Arizona
Mar 5, 2017 - 08:19am PT
Lucky Pink: "My mother explained this to me when I was in kindergarten or so.. she explained that women are different beings than men , that is women are more intelligent, more aware, and they have a full chromosome to carry those better traits. She explained that men lack a whole leg of the chromosome, so they cannot even tell when they are wrong or short sighted. She also explained that because of this women are the weavers of the fabric of society, arts and letters, diplomacy , social economics , health and welfare, education etc. Therefore men , being expendable, are hunters and warriors, because it doesn't make any great difference if they die in the process. Let that woolly mammoth take down a couple men because there will always be another one at the ready. Women will see to that in the raising of the children successfully, keeping the fabric of society intact. Men are welcome to be invited in because they are pleasing or worthy, and just as easily ushered out. Like buses, there's one by every few minutes. She explained to me that men will thump chests and expound on the inferiority of women because they lack that leg of the chromosome that gives them some perspective. So just let them have at it as they really are simply entertaining themselves since they don't have much else of any real importance to do. She said men will always compete, because they are not able to understand otherwise. She advised me to know my own legacy.

This expresses quite an attitude. I suppose that a male could write something equally distasteful. I suppose it could be me. I grew up as one of two males in a family of 10, and I’m in my third marriage.

The world’s ills are not only the result of what men have wrought or not. If there is not enough love in the world, it could be a result of not enough women managing the level of love in relationships and societies. (That supposedly is their most proffered strength.)

In my classes (undergraduates and grads at 4 universities since the 90s), I’ve seen women generally out-performing men individually and in teams. When it comes to small groups, they seem to have better skill sets than men. Men’s expectations and sense of entitlement for themselves are off. When it comes to leading entire organizations, however, women rarely find the right balance of assertiveness and femininity. We want female leaders; it’s just difficult to find them at high enough levels. (There’s something we’re not understanding about why they’re not showing up at the highest of levels.)
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
Mar 5, 2017 - 08:33am PT
If you want to see women at the executive level, successfully managing large numbers of men, you need to interview high ranking women in the U.S. military. I'll bet what they'll tell you is that they succeeded because the military is a closed environment that is able to enforce equality. The same thing worked for African Americans in the military.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
Mar 6, 2017 - 05:16pm PT
Army Colonel Shares Her Wisdom on Leadership
Special Presentation for Women’s History Month



March 17, 2017


Come hear retired ArmyColonel Jill Morgenthaler, author of The Courage to Take Command: Leadership Lessons from a Military Trailblazer. In this special presentation for Women’s History Month, the retired colonel will share strategies and stories on leadership and offer advice on staying resilient in a topsy-turvy world.

Morgenthaler is a woman of many firsts. She was one of the first women to enter an experimental class for women in the U.S. Army ROTC and train as an equal with men. At 22, she served as the first female military intelligence commander along the DMZ in South Korea. She was the first woman battalion commander in the 88th Division, and the first woman brigade commander in the 84th Division. In 2004, she led all public affairs efforts for multinational forces in Iraq. She was also the first woman to run homeland security for the state of Illinois.

The Army has awarded her the Legion of Merit and the Bronze Star.

So I still say, if women do not reach the highest echelons in the business world, it 's lack of opportunity not lack of leadership.
Ken M

Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
Mar 6, 2017 - 06:01pm PT
So they evolved with a higher percentage of their time and energy spent hunting, gathering, and risk taking (climbing)(PLAYING).

While the womenfolk were tending children and keeping house or cave, if you will.(WORKING)
Ken M

Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
Mar 6, 2017 - 06:09pm PT
When women climb at the level of the best men across the spectrum, I will happily admit that I was wrong.

No, you won't.

Anymore than Crackers won't admit that Blacks are as intelligent as Whites.

Anymore than cretins won't admit that Muslims are as holy as Christians.

Anymore than KKK's won't admit that Jews are as good as Christians (all the while ignoring that Jesus was a Jew.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Mar 6, 2017 - 11:05pm PT
Interesting stuff presented on this thread.

I had the pleasure of spending a lot of time around both Janet Wilts (who just posted here) and Lynn Hill, both or whom were crush it athletes, so much so that the male superiority racket didn't play too far around those two.

The reason women have had it comparatively well in the climbing world is because men and chauvinistic attitudes could never stop them. There is the rock. Go climb it if you can. So they did, no matter what people said or thought or wrote about it. Not so in the business world, for reasons well stated by others.

It's interesting to be around the Adidas Outdoor team (I manage several camps for this group, usually twice a year up in Yosemite) because the performance level is virtually the same among the top athletes - both men and women - and issues of inequality never come up because in that group that have no practical meaning. It's all just climbers trying to do new things. Pretty refreshing. The real world runs on another code, unfortunately.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 24, 2017 - 09:04am PT
Warbler, the Daily Wire, really?

micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
May 24, 2017 - 09:14am PT
Warbler I took the bait and read through that list in your article. Super funny. And kinda sad also, as many of those were sincere sentiments.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 24, 2017 - 09:17am PT
here is an article that may actually discuss an important issue:

The Gender Pay Gap Is Largely Because of Motherhood

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 24, 2017 - 11:45pm PT
The whole unequal pay thing is so complex that statistics can be twisted to support any point of view.

sounds like an easy excuse to not try to understand the statistics... which aren't so twisted.

and the bottom line isn't so hard to understand at all, women get paid less.

BigB

Trad climber
Red Rock
Nov 28, 2017 - 11:25am PT
Ms Abel has done another interesting article on how to climb books...
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web17f/wfeature-feminist-review-of-climbing-how-to-guides

edited: for error, thx eKat.
Mei

Trad climber
mxi2000.net
Nov 28, 2017 - 12:52pm PT
Link posted above:
A feminist review of climbing how-to guides

I did not follow most of this (long) thread, but took a quick glance at the above article. I think it is an example of "when feminist goes too far."

I think I'm safe to assume that it's known fact that there are more, probably substantially more, regular male climbers than regular female climbers, especially in alpinism, although I did not bother to spend hours searching for comprehensive scientific research data to support that assumption. With that honest (personal) observation, I find statements like following off putting.

Out of all the guides reviewed here, Advanced Rock Climbing offers the most representation for female climbers. In the text, women and men are represented almost equally, with 72 photos depicting climbers who appear to be women and 73 photos showing climbers who appear to be men.

Yet the majority of the personal story sections (35 out of 41) are written by men. With only 15 photographs of women and 148 of men, Training for New Alpinism has the lowest woman-to-man ratio of all the books in this review.

... and more ...

Just click on the Trip Reports tab on Supertopo. There are far fewer female climbers sharing stories than male climbers. I do not even see 6 women storytellers out of 41. Should men's trip reports be cut out, or should women's trip reports be shown in 10x sized enlarged fonts just to create a false equal representation? It's disingenuous to demand authors to go out of their way to find photos and stories in order to show "balance", which is a distortion of the natural imbalance of the sport in its current state.

I personally do not want to see How-to books made into what they are not. I read the books to seek knowledge; I don't read the books to seek gender validation. I agree there are many areas and avenues that equal respect and fair treatment need to be demanded and even fought for for some under-privileged or under-represented groups (including women as a whole), but distorting reality to push for a certain agenda is not better than the accused "crimes" or the -ism's.

kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Nov 28, 2017 - 07:35pm PT
Ms Abel states:

Including a variety of people in how-to-climb guides will not only offer a more accurate representation of the climbing population, but will also provide readers with a wider range of perspectives and experiences.

Um am I missing something or is a complete lack of understanding statistics what's driving the first half of the above quote?

Does the PDF of the variety match the PDF of the climber population?
jgill

Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
Nov 28, 2017 - 09:08pm PT
For an interesting and thought-provoking diversion, look into the Wikipedia Climbing Project:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject_Climbing

Although Lynn Hill is at the very "Top Importance" category (deservedly so) other females are quite a bit further down into the "Low Importance" realm: Beth Rodden, Ashima Siraishi, Barbara Washburn, Brooke Raboutou, Elizabeth Hawley, Gwen Moffat, Sasha DiGiulian, etc. Even others, like Pat Kelley ( a huge breakthrough for female climbers in England in the 1920s) are not even categorized.
nah000

climber
now/here
Nov 28, 2017 - 09:42pm PT
first, i should start by commending abel for continuing to push this conversation within our community. and kudos as well to the above folks who continue to consider it, even if they disagree... and i have to admit i appreciated The Warbler's sharing some of the backstory regarding his tenacity on this issue... in all seriousness, accepting his story of false accusations as true, it helps to explain quite a bit, because no matter which "side" lies about the t'other there is nothing to respond to the situations that he describes, except with: god damn that sucks.



but, as i've continued to consider it, i'm going to come at abel from a bit of the opposite direction, even if i end up in the same place as others who are making this argument. as much as i appreciated the step up that she has, imo, made to the seriousness and depth that she brings to bare to this subject [as compared to her previous writings on the matter] i don't believe she has successfully made her explicit [and implicit] case, as much as she might have [assuming it actually exists].

the argument that she made regarding females being underrepresented in some "how to" books, relative to their participation, was from my perspective, pretty weak. as Mei [here] and ChristopherElliot [over at the comments section to the Alpinist site] have argued: if anything it is quite possible house and co overrepresented women's participation in alpinism [for example] and really the other books "indiscretions" seemed to me to in general be pretty minor relative to the statistics that she laid out at the beginning of her article.

ie. for example, it was a weak bit of logic for abel not to have found some actual stats on alpinism participation, because as it stands it seems like she is using a 37.6% female trad climbing participation stat as an implied stand in for alpinism... which to myself, is kind of like assuming the roped sport climbing gender proportion stats are going to be same as the rock free soloist proportions...when of course we pretty much all "know/assume" that they are not... and so at least myself, would need to be convinced that at least the implied argument that she seems to me to be making [that female alpinists are underrepresented] is actually correct.

in short, i have sympathy for the argument that abel sets out to make, as i suspect that there are weaknesses [in "climbing" regarding these matters] that should be addressed. and so while i also agree [with for example The Warbler], that sexist issues are not just unidirectional [men "against" women] and that they sometimes do go in the opposite direction, i also disagree and suspect that in general, including in climbing, that there is more that we collectively, as a society/culture, need to do to address in the men "against" women category than in the women "against" men category.

while it might sound confrontational to be so blunt, that is the world i see.

and so it is from that perspective, that i think abel could have done some better analysis, and specifically could have used more foundational statistical evidence, if she was going to be more successful in making her case.



kudos to her for stepping up and getting started with contributing on a larger scale, though. and kudos to alpinist for giving her a platform... regardless of one's stance, i suspect very few will argue that it isn't an important conversation of our time.
BigBlue

Trad climber
Boulder, Colorado
Nov 28, 2017 - 11:40pm PT
I struggle to see how the actual percentage of women participants in alpinism is relevant. The argument that media representations should reflect actual participation presupposes that the ratios are the natural results of the differences between men and women. I.e. that it is natural for significantly more men than women to be alpinists. This argument is completely flawed – it ignores an entire system (that we all participate in) that rewards men for being bold adventurers, and punishes women for the same actions. In this context of course fewer women will become alpinists – but not because of any fundamental personality difference with men.

Take sport climbing. There was a time when there were way more male sport climbers than female. Back then the argument could have been (and in fact was) that men are just wired differently and that women aren’t cut out for hard, athletic climbing. Nowadays that argument is laughable. What caused this shift? Definitely not a sudden change in heart, personality or physicality by women. No – there are more women sport climbers these days because its more socially acceptable for women to be sport climbers. That’s probably due partly to sport climbing being perceived as less of a fringe “adventure sport” and partly to a shift in society's expectations of women. Taking this argument further can anyone honestly stick up their hand and say they preferred it when there were fewer women at the crag? Unlikely. But then why are we still so resistant to the very simple step of including more pictures of women in books about alpinism? Its a small easy thing with a potentially big payoff. What's the downside? I can't see one.

Here’s something else to think about. If a white man reading a climbing handbook sees a picture of a woman or a person of colour leading a hard route will he suddenly re-evaluate his intention to be a climber because he doesn’t feel represented? Of course not. If the thought even crosses his mind he need only turn the page to find someone who looks like him and with whom he can identify. So what’s the big deal about greater diversity and representation in climbing media? It’s really not that scary an idea.

My take is that Abel’s call for representation in media is well-founded. Responsible media shouldn’t only reflect where we are right now, but where we want to go.
Degaine

climber
Nov 29, 2017 - 12:33am PT
Here's a link to Howard Stern interviewing Jon Stewart:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BohWWbKBCGw

Listen to 09:30-13:00. It discusses a similar type of criticism of the Daily Show when JS was at the helm.

That is how I took the article written by Georgie Abel (Mei's link).
ECF

Big Wall climber
Ridgway CO
Nov 29, 2017 - 05:50am PT
Women are under the impression that we think about what we do and say.

Sometimes, but not always...

Labels, generalities, its all BS. We are just flawed individual units competing for resources in a closed sysytem. Use every tool, compete. Or die.

But as a rule, women over things and men over do them.

Then we started eating more soy...
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Nov 29, 2017 - 06:13am PT
The answer may be hormone supplements(testosterone to women and estrogen to men) for both sexes until we reach an equilibrium.

The workplace tone is gonna change from here on out. Guys had better get their mouths and actions in line pronto.


New climbing term-A Matt Lauer (A memorable hold on a trade route that breaks of after decades of use. A hold once deemed solid and is no more)
Flip Flop

climber
Earth Planet, Universe
Nov 29, 2017 - 06:38am PT
I carry heavy stuff for women who trade desireability for all kinds of things.

90+% of jobsite fatalities are men who do the vast majority of 3D work (difficult, dirty and dangerous).

We die to bring women and children our paychecks.

85% of custody cases go to the mother.

I still open doors and think women are special.

I used to be a feminist too but I can't hang with haters

Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Nov 29, 2017 - 07:10am PT
Boy! Girl! The climbing media I see has many, many, many pictures of women, like, all the time. In raw numbers, there are far fewer female aplinists, so there are just going to be fewer photos. I don't know anyone who has a problem with seeing photos or reading articles about female climbers. Ladies: Get to writing! This seems like tempest in a teapot BS. Would the author have an official gov't agency of gender equity that grants permits to publish based on equal representation of men and women? That, of course, opens the floodgates. There MUST be a few queer climbers, and transgender climbers, and transitioning climbers, and questioning climbers, and non-binary climbers, and...and...and.... We must ensure that EVERY possible permutation and combination of attributes, leanings, gleanings, genders, colors, et al. are represented. Except, of course, republicans.

BAd
MikeL

Social climber
Southern Arizona
Nov 29, 2017 - 07:12am PT
Mei: I read the books to seek knowledge; I don't read the books to seek gender validation. 

A false dichotomy. “Knowledge” vs. “. . . ?“

I think what you’re groping for is a valid basis for distinction between the sexes. It used to be “type-A achievement” versus “relational nurturing” (or some such hokum). Over the past 100 years that appears to have shifted, however, and it’s difficult to say just what the distinctions are beyond what is purely physical.

Hey, men and women are confused by the shifts on both sides of the aisle.

As soon as people add-in what would otherwise be considered “ethical” considerations (political, religious, communal), then I think no real answer will be found. Instead, it’s incremental accommodation and assimilation. Nothing remains the same; everything is always in flux.

If you’re not confused, then you don’t know what’s going on.
c wilmot

climber
Nov 29, 2017 - 07:19am PT
Feminism- making mountains out of mole hills

Same as it ever was
BigBlue

Trad climber
Boulder, Colorado
Nov 29, 2017 - 07:28am PT
What I really can't understand is how you, BigBlue, feel "punished" as a woman if you go on a bold adventure. This sounds to me like imagined victimization with an implied finger pointed at men as the culprits.

Warbler, with regards to reward and punishment I’m not talking about the experiences of individual climbers in relation to their climbing achievements. I’m talking about the innumerable social cues both small and large that we all experience from the moment we’re born that train us that it’s normal for men to take charge and for women to follow. Social rewards and punishments (like boys being encouraged to play outside, and girls to play house-house) make it easier to go along with these constructs than to buck them, for both men and women. So when a woman has a noteworthy climbing achievement it’s despite these lifelong social cues that she should not, in fact, be bold.

I’m not saying that every time a woman climbs a mountain men set out to punish her. On the contrary – most climbers I know are psyched to hear about climbing achievements regardless of gender. Post-summiting is not necessarily where the reward and punishment is meted out. Rather its exacted at each small step along the path to that summit, starting with a little girl being labelled a tomboy.

What I am saying is that society expects women not to be bold, and this expectation is drilled into us from the day we’re born. In this context it’s much harder for a teenage girl, say, to even think of exploring alpinism. I’m not casting men as villains – both men and women perpetuate the myth of men’s boldness and women’s meekness.

We all participate in the system because we have no choice – it’s all we have. We can choose how to participate though. For instance we can deliberately choose to use more photos of women climbers leading hard routes. Alternatively we can choose not think about it too much and just select photos that “feel” right to us, and that will most likely perpetuate the norms that society has socialised into us.
We can choose to acknowledge that it’s a harder for a woman to feel validated by society in her choice to be an alpinist than it is for a man. Or we can choose to ignore it and claim that it’s an equal path, and that there are fewer women alpine climbers because women just aren’t that into big mountains.
c wilmot

climber
Nov 29, 2017 - 07:38am PT
What I am saying is that society expects women not to be bold, and this expectation is drilled into us from the day we’re born.


Perhaps thirty years ago. Watch any commercial and you will see a strong female leading a bumbling incompetent male. This has been the case for decades. There are endless movies directed to kids with female leads cast as strong bold women. The movie "brave" comes to mind as one

Society changed a long time ago. You people are complaining about fictional problems you have imagined as a need to satiate your addiction to being outraged
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 29, 2017 - 07:46am PT
BigBlue....thanks for your refreshing, well reasoned, contributions to this topic!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Nov 29, 2017 - 08:48am PT
Excellent post, Big Blue. Thx.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Nov 29, 2017 - 10:44am PT
Clearly not given your posts well-illustrate the kind of nonsense women have to put up with every day, day-in, day-out.
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Nov 29, 2017 - 11:25am PT
Not this discussion again.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 29, 2017 - 11:59am PT
SCIENCE: prehistoric women were 10% stronger than average elite athletes today

http://www.sciencemag.org/news/2017/11/strong-women-did-lot-heavy-lifting-ancient-agrarian-societies
Binks

climber
Uranus
Nov 29, 2017 - 12:00pm PT
The male approach to equality and acceptance has always been "too bad, sucka... try harder or start your own thing if you don't fit in here" and falling on your ass has always been an acceptable outcome in social and work situations.

the feminist womyn's way is to demand everyone change for them and them alone, litigate, accuse and if they fail it's someone else's fault, because everyone should love, support, and bend over backwards for them. which is why their approach inevitable creates infighting and internal disorder as competency and resiliency under adversity is often exchanged for treading on eggshells and finger pointing

there are plenty of men and women who see through this bullsh#t. maybe there is a middle ground, but if so, we are far from it currently
BigBlue

Trad climber
Boulder, Colorado
Nov 29, 2017 - 01:08pm PT
women are biologically not as "bold" as men. Society doesn't "expect" it - rather, society exists because of it. Do young women take up arms and face death and disfigurement in battle against other women? As men have done, and still do, for all of history?

Warbler, I disagree with your argument that men's biology makes it inevitable they will wage war. What percentage of men who go to war do so because they simply love killing other men? I don't know the answer but I suspect it's negligibly small (if not we have a way bigger problem than patriarchy or racism - first we have to deal with the raging horde of sociopaths).
Now compare this very small number to the percentage of men who go to war because they feel they must - out of a sense of patriotic duty, or a responsibility to their family, or out of fear of losing face to other men and being labeled a coward, or because of a financial imperative (not because of testosterone). This second percentage is way bigger, probably encompassing the vast majority of the armed forces. They are mostly responding to the tiny cues they've been given their whole lives that it is manly and good to go to war. And while going to war is not an easy thing, it can be easier than bucking the system and not going. And when those men are over there killing other men and trying not to be killed by them, I suspect top of mind for most of them is simply to not get killed, to come home safe, and to not let their buddies down. That's not testosterone at work. The first two are survival. And the third is avoiding the shame of being a coward and a response to the huge value that society places on the concept of brothers in arms.

Serious alpine climbing has some of the same dynamics as battle.
Testosterone has been proven over and over to encourage aggressive and risk taking behavior
I also disagree with your argument that elevated risk taking resulting from testosterone is the reason there are more male alpinist than female. Societal effects have a far larger influence. Look at the amazing track record of Polish climbers on the worlds highest mountains in the '80's (documented in the brilliant book Freedom Climbers by Bernadette McDonald). They took on way more risk than most other climbers, climbed some mind bending routes, and paid a huge price in loss of life. All of this wasn't because they had more testosterone than other men. Rather their relationship with risk was completely different to most other high altitude mountaineers, due mostly to the society they came from.
Furthermore the comparison of alpinism with war and the assertion that aggression is a prerequisite for success on big routes is simply not true. Sure, extreme aggression is one way to get up a mountain (a la Mark Twight). Another way (Voytek Kurtyka for instance) is to view a climb as a mystical and almost religious experience, not even remotely aggressive. There are many other ways. Who knows what ways the women of the future will discover, perhaps even because they are biologically different to men. What is true is that we will never know if we don't acknowledge that we all participate in a system where girls are schooled to follow, and if we don't then deliberately choose how we act within that system. And back on topic the action in this instance is the earth shattering inclusion of more pictures of women in climbing hand books.

After years of accusing men of limiting female potential through sexism and misogyny, and being accused themselves of sexism and misandry, hard core feminists now feign fairness by also blaming their fellow (unenlightened) women for the insurmountable differences btw the sexes
Finally Warbler, you seem convinced someone is trying to apportion blame. Maybe someone is but it ain't me. I'm just saying: see the system - it really is there. And knowing of its existence choose to act deliberately, not accidentally or by default.
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Nov 29, 2017 - 01:29pm PT
It was Bonnie and Clyde, not Clyde and Bonnie.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 29, 2017 - 01:42pm PT
Alpine climbing is something I feel competent to expound on. Twight may have used aggression to compensate for some skill deficiencies. I have been on many cutting edge alpine climbs and I don’t believe that naked aggression is a valuable component to success.

I do believe that dogged determination is a really important ingredient but I feel that preparation is the most important factor of all. Preparation has many facets....developing the right skills, physical fitness, choice of partners, choice of equipment and strategy all come into play.

It has to be quite obvious that gender has no play in preparation. Additionally, Kitty Calhoun, who I don’t consider aggressive, is one of the most determined humans I have ever met. Kitty also prepares herself 24/7 when it comes to training and diet.

I believe that there definetly are qualities that not everyone possesses that are important for serious alpine climbing. I just don’t believe they are gender based. I do believe that societal norms for gender are a factor in why there are currently fewer women in the alpine realm. I also believe that societal norms are in a constant state of change.
MikeL

Social climber
Southern Arizona
Nov 29, 2017 - 03:29pm PT
Mr. Donini,

You're observations are keen, I'd say.
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Nov 29, 2017 - 06:30pm PT
Hey eKat,

You said
GreatGooglyMoogly

Don't forget about the Great Googley Boogley
kev
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Nov 29, 2017 - 08:33pm PT
I think there is definitely something to the role model angle. As I read more from female climbers, they reference other women especially as role models, women who showed them what was possible. For most of climbing's brief history, it's been almost totally a man's game. It's good to see more examples of women in the sport. From Destivelle and Calhoun and Freer on the big peaks, to Margo Hayes and Hill and Harrington and Shanti Pack on the rock, women are getting it done on bigger and badder routes all the time. Think of how far they've come in so short a time with so relatively fewer climbers! I think Warbler's on the wrong side on this one. Women have only just started. Hell, who's that little girl who just sent 15b? Stand back, boyz.

BAd
BigBlue

Trad climber
Boulder, Colorado
Nov 29, 2017 - 11:20pm PT
So why are there so many sport climbing women of note, and so few alpine climbing women of note?
Because there are less photos of women alpine climbers?
What are examples of societal constraints that govern one but not the other?

One of the primary differences between sport and alpine is the huge influence mentorship has in alpinism. As Warbler points out, climbing gyms resulted in a massive jump in numbers (across genders). There’s virtually no impediment to becoming proficient in a gym environment. You don’t need a network of older, more experienced climbers – it helps but it’s not a prerequisite. Alpine climbing is different. If you go out there and try figure it out on your own you’ll either get nowhere or wind up dead.

If most alpinists are men who believe that women just aren’t cut out for alpinism because by default they don’t have “the pure and passionate drive from within” and because they have lower testosterone and aren’t aggressive enough, then of course they’re unlikely to choose to mentor young women. Every successful alpinist can point to one or more highly influential mentor. The same isn’t true of sport climbing. So I agree with Warbler that more photos of women alpinists is a small thing and probably won’t make a massive difference. But it is an easy thing which will make some difference (with no downside). Part of what it may do is change the subconscious perception from both men and women that alpinism is a male arena.
What would make a much bigger difference, though, is if alpinists in a position to mentor young climbers broadened their vision to include young women climbers, and even more importantly, young girls.

“I was Peak bagging in The Sierra in Boy Scouts at the age of 10”.
I wonder what the 10 year-old girl scouts were doing? I suspect they weren’t out there peak bagging with boys. Maybe those 10 year old girls just lacked “the pure and passionate drive from within”. Or maybe all the adults believed that it’s not normal for little girls to go out peak bagging. Which force would have had the bigger influence on little Warbler-girl-child who was just dreaming of being in the mountains – her innate passion and drive, or all the adults around her telling her her dream is wrong and she should find a new one that’s more comfortable for everyone?
It’s a fact that alpinism is hard for anyone to get into, much harder than sport climbing. It’s also a fact that it’s harder for women to get into than men.
Splater

climber
Grey Matter
Nov 29, 2017 - 11:56pm PT
"It’s a fact that alpinism is hard for anyone to get into, much harder than sport climbing. It’s also a fact that it’s harder for women to get into than men."

blah blah blah boo hoo whine cry

just the latest version of playing the victim.

Actually it's quite easy to get into alpinism these days. Why should we care about trying to make it even more crowded? With all the info on the internet and videos everywhere, I wish it were harder and kept more people away.

35 years ago, I and 2 friends of mine (all 3 engineers) taught ourselves almost everything, with no mentors, no guiding, no videos, no internet, no cell phones, no superlight gear, Just some magazines, and slowly bought enough gear like first generation cams, straight shaft axes, heavy boots, guidebooks from roper, wilts, & wolfe.

Do whatever you want. Don't blame other people for your own issues.

Splater

climber
Grey Matter
Nov 30, 2017 - 12:10am PT
"Warbler, I disagree with your argument that men's biology makes it inevitable they will wage war."

It seems to me that for all known human history, men have mostly fought the battles. And there were a lot of battles. And there would have been natural selection of those who were good in battle. Modern culture of the last 50 years does not undo 100000 years of evolution.
BigBlue

Trad climber
Boulder, Colorado
Nov 30, 2017 - 12:18am PT
35 years ago, I and 2 friends of mine (all 3 engineers) taught ourselves almost everything, with no mentors, no guiding, no videos, no internet, no cell phones, no superlight gear, Just some magazines, and slowly bought enough gear like first generation cams, straight shaft axes, heavy boots, guidebooks from roper, wilts, & wolfe.
Splater, your personal experience doesn’t disprove that we all participate in a larger system. It also doesn’t change the fact that most alpinists came up through a mentorship environment dominated by men.
The value in acknowledging that it’s harder for women to become alpinists than men is not in assigning labels like victim and perpetrator, or to whine and wring hands. No. The value lies in the choices we are then able to make about how to participate in that system. Deliberate choices that could well be different from the passive default choices we might make if we were oblivious to the system.
Byran

climber
Half Dome Village
Nov 30, 2017 - 01:28am PT
Splater, your personal experience doesn’t disprove that we all participate in a larger system. It also doesn’t change the fact that most alpinists came up through a mentorship environment dominated by men.
Is it a "fact" that most alpinists were mentored rather than self-taught? Is it actually harder for an inexperienced woman to find a mentor than it is for an inexperienced man? Is it even true that females are underrepresented to a greater degree in alpine climbing compared to sport climbing? If any research has been posted on any of these subjects, I missed it.
BigBlue

Trad climber
Boulder, Colorado
Nov 30, 2017 - 02:20am PT
Is it a "fact" that most alpinists were mentored rather than self-taught? Is it actually harder for an inexperienced woman to find a mentor than it is for an inexperienced man? Is it even true that females are underrepresented to a greater degree in alpine climbing compared to sport climbing? If any research has been posted on any of these subjects, I missed it.

Byran, you’re missing the point.
Let’s say I’m wrong and that most alpinists are self-taught. Men are still more likely to embark on the quest teach themselves to be alpinists because all of us are schooled from a young age that its normal for men to be bold and for women to be meek.
Let’s say I’m wrong and that it’s just as easy for an inexperienced woman to find a mentor as it is for an inexperienced man. It’s still harder for her to seek out a mentor in the first place because the world around her tells her it’s not a normal thing for a woman to do.

Regarding underrepresentation – that’s what started this whole discussion: an underrepresentation of women in climbing handbooks. And this simple and non-threatening idea has taken us from testosterone via war to evolution with everything in between. Surely the mental gymnastics and vehement arguments against having more pictures of women in climbing handbooks is proof that something else is going on? What is the root of that raw nerve? Why is more pictures of women climbers such an outrageous idea? Why is it so threatening? Why is the pushback so disproportionate to the proposed action? Those are the interesting questions.
Degaine

climber
Nov 30, 2017 - 03:23am PT
Nice posts, BigBlue.

Cheers.
Degaine

climber
Nov 30, 2017 - 03:33am PT
The Warbler wrote:
I ain't buying the photo excuse

When it comes to the topic of equal rights and representation for women, are you at all capable of even the slightest bit of introspection?

Do you really belief the cockamamie B.S. regarding the entirely imagined divisiveness of what you refer to as 3rd wave feminism? It's a convenient mechanism to hide behind and to use an excuse not to even consider other points of view - most notably a woman's point of view.

Why so defensive in all of these threads? Why do you feel so threatened by a call for - in both in and outside climbing - equal treatment for women?
(And "equal" does not mean "the same" => no two men are the same)

Per one of your above posts I truly am sorry that you were screwed over by two women - but that has to do with those two individuals and should not be used to jump to sweeping conclusions about all women.

In any case, if you decide at some point to take a step back and open your mind a bit, click on the Howard Stern / Jon Stewart interview I posted a page or two back. It should provide at least some insight as to what G.Abel and Big Blue are getting at. I could not find a word for word transcript, but here is the part of the interview I'm referring to regarding an episode in the past where JS was accused of being sexist:

http://mashable.com/2017/11/15/jon-stewart-howard-stern-louis-ck/#6YjXEUFpmgqf
"My first response was like...'No no no no, I'm an O.G. feminist, man! I was raised by a single mother in the '70s,'" he said. "She had a shirt that said 'A woman needs a man like a fish needs a bicycle.' I felt like sh#t in my own house for being me."

"There are things in it that are untrue, that are...an implication of true piggishness that I felt was untrue," Stewart added.

He went back to the writers' room to rail about the article and realized, looking around the room, that it was right. Stewart thought his show was ahead of the game because it took blind submissions, but the submissions came from agents – who tended to be biased toward white men from Ivy League schools.

"To change that system takes actual effort," Stewart said. Once he got past his defensiveness to examine the criticism, he tried to do better.

Cheers.

MikeL

Social climber
Southern Arizona
Nov 30, 2017 - 07:36am PT
A little science might be instructive here, rather than relying purely on anecdote:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Picture_superiority_effect

https://www.psychologytoday.com/blog/mental-mishaps/201312/photographs-and-memories

https://piktochart.com/blog/5-psychology-studies-that-tell-us-how-people-perceive-visual-information/

It would appear that graphics and pictures (images) have an impact on what and how people think and feel. But it’s a fairly complex set of relationships, much of which yet need clear and complete explanation.

What seems to be missing from the research thus far is the person’s attitudes, values, and beliefs that they bring to the perception of an image to begin with. We are not tabula rasa every time we see an image. What might be agreeable or positively influential to one might be exactly the opposite to another.

Images come in various sorts, some of which are not printed as pictures. The images that people have in their heads of themselves (and others) are perhaps the most powerful.

John Stewart’s claim that “to change that system takes actual effort” might constitute a fool’s errand. It may be impossible for any person or group to change a system.
cat t.

climber
california
Nov 30, 2017 - 08:06am PT
Is sycorax a bot??

I appreciated the comment on Georgie's article as much as the sentiment of the article itself. I have not read any of the books in question, but in the climbing media I consume (Alpinist and ST, haha!!), no one shies away from featuring amazing female climbers. It's not 50/50, but I think we have reached a sufficient critical mass of role models to hope to one day achieve parity.

I do absolutely agree with the sentiment that role models are of utmost importance, but I think the positive effect takes hold long before 50/50 representation.

Have you ever gone back and read your favorite books from childhood? I'm always flabbergasted by what I find; so much of my world view (and even turns of phrase) was influenced or seeded by the literature I consumed pre-age 15. I don't mean to imply that I go around parroting novels, but instead that I recognize many external sources contributed to modifying the woman I'd grow up into. It's easy to think we are "self made," but I think it's just because we're incapable of remembering all the influences we've been exposed to over the decades of life.

We've already made great strides. In the not-so-distant past, women were actively excluded from alpine pursuits, and those who pursued such goals (despite society's strong pressure to keep them out) were ignored by history. In the generation preceding the present, it seems those rule-breaking women were finally acknowledged, if begrudgingly. By the time I arrived at climbing, there were already a couple generations of inspiring female climbers. It took less effort to find female climbing role models than it did to find well-written female sci-fi protagonists (the failed quest of my childhood).

regarding repeated echoes of "no one is to blame for your failure to be adventurous"--I don't think women who want to bring more equality to climbing blame anyone for a failure to get into climbing. They are, after all, into climbing. I think they are standing up for a principle, and pointing out that it could be nice to also include not-yet-climbers who do not thrive in an environment full of snide comments about the lack of female independence.
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Nov 30, 2017 - 09:42am PT
Front yard where I am working today.
Ain't no flatlander

climber
Nov 30, 2017 - 09:51am PT
It’s a fact that alpinism is hard for anyone to get into, much harder than sport climbing. It’s also a fact that it’s harder for women to get into than men.

Utter nonsense. This completely ignores the fact that the Colorado Mountain Club, the Mountaineers, the Mazamas, the Sierra Club, and many other organizations have offered mountaineering classes for over a century. None have excluded anyone because of sex, race, or whatever. All women have to do is sign up and go. Hiring guides to learn has been an option for almost two centuries. How many decades has Chicks with Picks been around now? The opportunities for women to learn have existed for a very long time. It just takes a desire to suffer and be cold.
Bushman

climber
The state of quantum flux
Nov 30, 2017 - 09:53am PT

Obviously just another clinker opportunity employer...

PS
I love that sign!
uncrushed

Trad climber
North Vancouver
Nov 30, 2017 - 10:42am PT

An adventure with a guide falls short of a true adventure for the guided

Yes.


I have noticed that male climbers are often eager to mentor young female climbers.

Yes.... but...

For some people, dragging someone up something is a way to impress them not teach them...

Kinda like some spotters tend feel the need to have hands ready to support the ass rather than shoulders/torso...

YMMV
uncrushed

Trad climber
North Vancouver
Nov 30, 2017 - 10:46am PT
I don't disagree.

But not always the best one for stopping someone landing on their neck.
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Nov 30, 2017 - 11:46am PT
Tom Turrentine

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Nov 30, 2017 - 12:04pm PT
Just read this whole thread, and impressed with the level of discourse (not all of it but most of it) i also am less inclined to debate, especially given the complexity here as well as wise voices.

A couple of minor thoughts: one is that given all the focus on "natural capabilities" in this discussion, it is probably a useful analytical device to distinguish sex (the full range of biological expressions of sexuality) from gender (full range of social constructs of sexuality) .

Also, along with culture, the human ability to modify basic biological categories may set humans aside from other species, and that capability seems to be accelerating in our times, with focused training (gyms) , equipment (think of better shoes fitting all feet), information, lifestyle (climbing 300 days per year instead of gathering seeds), diet, drugs and other genetic modifications looming in our future.

And as this society seems to be legitimizing and diversifying broader sensibilities of sex and gender, I think the past fifty years can only go so far in predicting the next fifty.

also, while kevin seems focused on testosterone, there are a variety of hormones to consider, my favorite is adrenaline, and ability to use adrenaline methodically has a big role in climbing - my hunch is more than testosterone.

also. coming from an anthropology background - mostly human ecology - (I confess that my knowledge of the literature is over 20 years old), I'm keenly aware of how much that field was and is transformed by women ethnographers and scientists in recent decades, that sensibilities about what is "natural" in early human history or the present record are being revisited through wider scope of investigation.
uncrushed

Trad climber
North Vancouver
Nov 30, 2017 - 01:20pm PT
Falling on your ass bouldering is more common than falling on your neck

Dunno - depends on many things - which hold blows first, how steep/horizontal you are ... and how much someone is supporting your lower body while your top half rotates.

Personally I find landing on my ass is less concerning than landing on my head/neck.

Anyway, this is getting way offtrack - the point is you can categorize behaviours very broadly as similar but in reality each instance may have very different intent and effect.

Doesn't make for a good soundbite on the interwebz though


So now, men who mentor women climbers must prove that their goals are not to impress them, but to fulfill their obligation to foster equality in numbers and performance among female climbers in general.

No, straw manning again. But seeing as you are commenting on the availability of "mentors" driving skill/participation in alpinism, maybe you could recognise some of the subtleties associated with that argument.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Nov 30, 2017 - 02:37pm PT
To Far?
to far How?
When ? (about half way through)LadyWooD?(or her next offering ;Blue Lips?)


[Click to View YouTube Video]
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Nov 30, 2017 - 05:39pm PT
From my wife--I kid you knot--on hearing about the OP article that complained about the ratio of male to female photos in the book:

"F*ck off, eat sh*t, and die! You've got to be kidding me!" That's a quote.

She said that features, photos, etc. of female climbers would have only had a marginal effect on her desire to climb and get into mountaineering. She was mostly inspired by classic climbing books and a then-boyfriend who was into the mountains. He was not a great climber and didn't provide any meaningful mentoring-kind of the opposite, actually. She was motivated, in part, by a sense that her fears in other parts of life might yield by confronting the up-front and intense experience of climbing, which proved to be true.

BAd
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Nov 30, 2017 - 08:22pm PT
”F*ck off, eat sh*t, and die! You've got to be kidding me!" That's a quote.

Was there alcohol involved?


I just knew this thread would be flaring.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Nov 30, 2017 - 09:00pm PT
I can think of a few young men I wouldn't mind " mentoring" ... alas I'm a married old woman 😜

But creepy cougaring aside....

I lost interest in that article at around paragraph 6/7 when the author says:

"I’ve been somewhat confused and disappointed by the recent spate of articles and online commentaries that suggest that women climbers are being held back by a community that is slow to accept their presence. All of which has been launched under the guise of “feminism
.”

It simply doesn't jive with what I personally have observed recently. For the most part our sport embraces strong women climbers. We cheer on 12-year old girls right along side wizened hard men in the media. Like a lot of sports... men out number the women, so a greater percentage of coverage is simply numbers IMO.

PS @ Gnome- that vid is hilarious.. although i may suffer some PTSD next time I walk by the yellow fun fur in garment district ..
couchmaster

climber
Feb 6, 2018 - 05:45pm PT


At this stage of my life most women are easily outclimbing me. In fact, any female over 3rd grade is also generally outclimbing me unless she's a para or a quad, and even then it's in doubt. Regardless, it's really not about that at all, but about getting out, enjoying the day, feeling some athletic flow and competency and remembering those many who have fallen by the wayside and cant be there to enjoy the day as I am at that time.

Bless you all
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Feb 6, 2018 - 05:47pm PT
#Paunch
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Feb 6, 2018 - 06:24pm PT
The withering gaze of the Sycorax is more than my obliques can take... I'm out









(but The Warbler is right on 97.43% of what he has said. To claim otherwise is disingenuous at best, unless you are a girl)
WBraun

climber
Feb 6, 2018 - 06:30pm PT
So women can outclimb guys and guys are becoming pussies, big fukin deal.

You people are still insane .....except warbler and Fish
Larry Nelson

Social climber
Feb 27, 2018 - 08:57am PT

Ultimate strength does not lie in the physical, but in the resolve of the mind.
Over 50% of the strongest people I have known in my life have been women;-)
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