COCHISE STRONGHOLD: Rock Climbing on the West Side Guidebook

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Messages 1 - 64 of total 64 in this topic
Tanya B

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 7, 2017 - 12:00pm PT
The guidebook has arrived!

This book has been a long time coming and I raise a glass to toast all the climbing you are about to do. 375+ routes, 550+ pitches, this book is jam packed with west side adventures.

The weather is perfect, the season is prime, all the routes have names, and now you will never wonder "what is that climb over there? again.

A huge thank you to everyone who pre-purchased a guide to get it off the ground. Thank you to industry sponsors who also backed the book to help take it to print: Five Ten, Scarpa, Mountain House, Omega Pacific,Summit Hut, Golden Rule Vineyards,and Trango. These companies support climbing at the grassroots level.

Come pick yours up locally by emailing me at cochiseclimbing@gmail.com for the address (Mountain&Grant in Tucson). If you want one to ship, order here http://www.cochiseclimbing.com
Contractor

Boulder climber
CA
Jan 7, 2017 - 12:05pm PT
I'm interested, how can we get a snippet?

Thanks!
Tanya B

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2017 - 12:30pm PT
Thanks for your interest.
You can see the evolution of the book on my website under climbing information. I have some samples of the old topos and then how the new pages look. The book was constantly evolving.

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 7, 2017 - 01:25pm PT
I'm up for one when I get back from Patagonia.....my wife and I pilgrimage there every year. Saw my first Mountain Lion there.

No, I don't mean Patagonia, Arizona.
Tanya B

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2017 - 03:41pm PT
Thanks Jim,
Hope to get everybody on way more routes then the standards. Also hoping to get your slide show to Tucson next year too.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jan 7, 2017 - 04:50pm PT
I climbed there a couple times BITD with the Tucson Hotties, one of whom died in a tragic nighttime bike riding accident. [sigh] I really love the place - good memories, for sure.

Did I read somewhere that it is not a "safe" place to be these days, because of all the drug trafficking activity and Cochise's proximity to the Mexico border? What's the reality?

Cheers!
F10

Trad climber
Bishop
Jan 7, 2017 - 07:48pm PT
Looks good. I have Bob Kerry's guides and believe I could use an update.
Your link looks like the west side is out now with the east side coming out later ?
Tanya B

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2017 - 08:01pm PT
The Southern Arizona Climbers Coalition has been working closely with the Forest Service on erosion control work. The trail up to the Rockfellows was buttoned up just before Christmas and at that time the local Ranger answered the questions about safety.
He has never seen or has record of any border issues in the Stronghold itself. This "traffic" tends to stay away from this area (perhaps due to the difficult terrain.)
Over the past 3 years of camping EVERY weekend I personally have not had any problems or seen any evidence either.
There is a check point on the highway to the West that climbers need to pass through so bring ID.
Tanya B

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2017 - 08:03pm PT
I am waiting for some final edits to the last 4 chapters and then the East Side is going to press. That book contains about 450+ routes and probably 700+ pitches. I will get a final count once the index is done.
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Jan 7, 2017 - 08:07pm PT
The first issue of Climbing magazine I ever saw featured a shot of Cochise on the cover, mid-eighties? I need to go there someday.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 7, 2017 - 08:33pm PT
A place I have always wanted to visit. Nice!

Only visited once, but I would love to go back. Inspired me to post up here on ST: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=800391&msg=800391#msg800391
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Jan 7, 2017 - 09:00pm PT
Congrats. Gotten out there a couple of times since I was licky enough to get the Kerry guide when available. Once on the East (The Waste Land--what else?) and once on the West with the soon to be wife. Cold as all get out. Our sun shower froze solid. Got some good short routes in those. So much left to do though. Definitely need to go back.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Jan 8, 2017 - 11:02am PT
Beautiful looking guide.

Hope I get a chance to use one!
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
SLO, Ca
Jan 8, 2017 - 03:14pm PT

Congrats! Looking forward to checking it out. I used to climb there all the time in the 90s and did a few new routes with DDC and Jim Scott. Amazing place.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jan 8, 2017 - 04:45pm PT
Very intrigued. Last time through there we didn't get a chance to stop. Very much want to get back there.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jan 8, 2017 - 04:47pm PT
Congrats!
Happiegrrrl2

Trad climber
Jan 8, 2017 - 05:27pm PT
Congratulations to you! I have only been once, but had such fun. A great place.
Tanya B

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2017 - 09:57am PT
Thanks Rocks and Ropes for hosting a table this week to get the guide into people hands. If you live in Tucson come by any night this week 5-7pm to pick up your copy. Cash preferred. $35

Want to mail order: http://www.cochiseclimbing.com
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jan 10, 2017 - 10:10am PT
Good job... tons of HARD work to make guides.

I have never feared for my safety when visiting... but we did get stopped a few times by Border Agents... It must have been the Black Chevy Yukon we were driving, they are only looking for people... they didn't care one bit about the thick clouds of smoke that poured out of the window... at 3am.



Time for a road trip.

Is there a Falcon closure on the WEST side?
Tanya B

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2017 - 08:30pm PT
There are no falcon closures on the west side. Those Sierra Vista locals climb all summer too regardless of the heat.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jan 11, 2017 - 07:36pm PT
I just got my grubby bouldering mitts on the new guide.
It's GREAT!
Finally a comprehensive guide to the Stronghold.

This will be a great resource for locals and visitors alike-
opening up hundreds of unreported or un-updated routes with excellent beta photos and topos- all meticulously researched and documented.

Looks like I might have to put the pad away and dust off the gadgets!!!


http://www.cochiseclimbing.com/store/c1/Featured_Products.html
Ballo

Trad climber
Jan 11, 2017 - 10:28pm PT
Since this thread has people with a keen interest in Cochise...

I'll be in Cochise for the remainder of the winter, hopefully trad climbing. I have loads of gear and experience and have been here three times before. If you find yourself in the best place to climb in the winter (so far as this country goes), give me a call!

My cell is five41-three59-nine212 if you get voicemail just send me a TXT instead.

-Ball
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
SLO, Ca
Jan 12, 2017 - 07:39am PT
I'm curious if a route named Call Me Ishmael on Whale Dome made it in?? I helped out on the FA and it's a cool route. Hopefully others will enjoy and it's not lost to the sands of time!

Looking forward to buying the guide and hopefully making it down there this season!

Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Jan 12, 2017 - 07:55am PT
Wonderful, wonderful, wonderful! I'll be getting a copy of each. Couldn't make it down this year, but next year, watch out. Congrats!

BAd
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jan 12, 2017 - 10:15am PT
Ontheedge-
Yup.


Not too many ddc routes made it in.
Looks "killer" lol ;-)
Tanya B

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2017 - 10:54am PT
I contacted Dave DeChamps if he was interested in contributing his route information to the guide and he told me to never contact him again.

I included all routes that were submitted to me after months of open calls for routes info. I spent months scouring those walls and if I saw evidence of passage I tried to climb it.

I found files of old notes and explored those routes and all of those were included.

There are probably more out there but if you have limited time and want to spend more time climbing then thrashing you will want to stick with the 375+ in the book. These will provide years of quality climbing.
Tanya B

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2017 - 10:58am PT
Unfortunately there have been lots of routes lost to time. I was asked last night by a local climber if I included the one route he did in the West Stronghold. I said I did not know he did a route. I asked him where it was. He said "I don't know, I was hoping you would."
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
SLO, Ca
Jan 12, 2017 - 11:15am PT
Thanks jefe!

Tanya B- the book looks really nice and I can't wait to pick one up. Dave has always been that way about the Stronghold. Either Jim or I spilled the beans on Ishmael at some point during the last 20 odd years. Anyway, it looks like some of his work likely made it in-- "Name Unknown- 5.10R" LoL!!
apross

climber
Jan 12, 2017 - 12:07pm PT
Hi, I work in a climbing shop and would like to pick some books up. Do you wholesale?

Cheers, Andy
Tanya B

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2017 - 12:33pm PT
Sure do, email me at cochiseclimbing@gmail.com and we can talk details
Tanya B

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2017 - 09:02pm PT
This route is Eat Me! Another great wide crack training ground.
nature

climber
Boulder, CO
Jan 16, 2017 - 07:17am PT
Where is the outrage?

I'm kidding. Looks good!

We need to have another SushiFest down there.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jan 16, 2017 - 10:11am PT
I contacted Dave DeChamps if he was interested in contributing his route information to the guide and he told me to never contact him again.


The same old story.... He will be the FIRST to complain that YOU got it wrong!!!!!


And Nature... Yes Yes another Sushi Fest .... sign me up in advance!
Tanya B

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2017 - 05:27pm PT
YA! Sushifest. When are you free to have one? Could it be a Edamame Bean-fest/ Sushi?
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Jan 17, 2017 - 06:10pm PT
ontheedge, is that corner you posted on the previous page Call me Ishmael, or another route?
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
SLO, Ca
Jan 17, 2017 - 06:51pm PT
Hi Looks Easy,

The pic is from Days of Future Passed, a Steve Grossman route on the east side of Cochise.
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Jan 17, 2017 - 07:00pm PT
Thanks. That looks like a pretty fun feature. And, not to disparage your route, but .10b makes me a lot happier than .11 (even .11- ;) ).
Tanya B

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2017 - 08:36am PT
The East Side book features a great photo by George Bell of Days of Future Past with Haroon Kheshgi and Joe Terravecchia.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Jan 18, 2017 - 09:13am PT
How do we know if you got our online order and when it would have been shipped?
I PayPal'd on the 11th. Thanks!
adrian korosec

climber
Tucson
Jan 18, 2017 - 02:09pm PT
Stronghold bump

Also, Steel did you get your book? I emailed for local purchase but no answer to my email.

Stoked to see the book and try some of the routes!!
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Jan 18, 2017 - 02:38pm PT
I haven't seen it yet. Figured I'd just ask since it's only Tuc to Phx.
Looking forward to seeing it.
MikeL

Social climber
Southern Arizona
Jan 18, 2017 - 05:03pm PT
Excellent. I'll see if I can get the wife to consider getting on a rope again. Looks great. TFPU.
nature

climber
Boulder, CO
Jan 19, 2017 - 09:10am PT
Can't make any promises on when a Cochise SushiFest could happen. That's a long way from Boulder and with little to no time on my hands it would be tough to schedule.

Probably best to wait until after the east side edition is released since that is now the spot for SF. We've done half a dozen down there and it's one of my favorite places.

Combining with BeanFest probably wouldn't work. They are two different types of events. What few conversations I had with anyone organizing BeanFest didn't go far.
superimposed

Trad climber
Chamonix
Jan 19, 2017 - 09:14pm PT
Congrats on the guidebook, my mate has been raving about this place without ever visiting.
Long way off, but seriously thinking of heading over this coming November for the desert experience, newbie question, could we find enough climbing to keep us entertained for 3 to 4 weeks??
Obviously need the guide book too, are you supplying any retailers in France, UK so I can feed my stoke in the meantime??
nature

climber
Boulder, CO
Jan 19, 2017 - 09:45pm PT
could we find enough climbing to keep us entertained for 3 to 4 weeks??

yes
fgw

climber
portland, or
Jan 20, 2017 - 09:29am PT
Ordered my West Side volume last week - looking forward to it (& a trip there).

So when is the East Side volume going to be ready (your site says Jan '17)? Did I miss something? thanks.
CascadeOtto

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 20, 2017 - 11:18am PT
The book looks great Tanya! I'm eagerly watching for my copy to arrive in the mail, purchased way, way in advance! Regards,

Bill Enger
Tanya B

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2017 - 03:35pm PT
Thanks for your support. The books went out last week but think they are back logged with the long weekend. If you did a local pick up please email me at cochiseclimbing@gmail.com. It's just me doing all this so I might have missed a follow up. I can meet up anywhere in Tucson or the Stronghold for that matter.

Tanya B

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2017 - 03:36pm PT
I will ship internationally. I just shipped to Ireland and the postage was $15 US. Please email and I will get t priced for you.
Tanya B

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2017 - 03:41pm PT
The financial outlay for the West Side book has caused me to need to do some sponsorship for the East Side printing. The book is ready to go but our local shop Summit Hut is generously helping fund the printing by doing a route naming contest.

There is a formation called Beginning Pinnacle that has some unnamed routes. You can submit a route name, they will pick the best names by Jan 29th and if your name is picked they will give you a $25 gift card. Have you always had a witty name that suits the place? Enter on their facebook page.http://www.facebook.com/SummitHutTucson/?fref=ts

Once the names are entered I hit SEND!
cavemonkey

Ice climber
ak
Jan 20, 2017 - 04:16pm PT
Unnamed SA routes?????
Hard to believe! (Sarcasm)
Happy to see that u took the leap T......
But will miss the super secret hand drawn topos scott
Gave in the past
Couldn't keep that place off the radar regardless
Can't wait to come scoop up both books in person
-s-
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
Jan 20, 2017 - 04:48pm PT
Hi, looks like nice work covering one of my favorite areas but I'm curious as to the reason for a 2 volume guide? Just wondering since a huge complex area like Red Rocks NV is well covered in a single volume. Not trying to be critical, perhaps I am missing some intention/utility. Thanks.
Tanya B

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2017 - 05:45pm PT
The decision was based on a few factors.
1)Who likes to carry a huge book? I often photocopy the pages for the day out of the Red Rocks guide but I have gotten screwed by having multiple parties on routes and not having info for other routes. This way it is a manageable size that you can easily carry in your pack and not have to trade off extra gear for a heavy book.
2)You cannot climb on both sides in the same day. It is a drive to get from one side or that other so most people will never even take both books for a weekend. They will either go to the east side or the west side.
3)My printer recommended keeping the page count under 400 for the integrity of the spin and making the book last long.
4)I could finish one faster then the other so I chose to get people out climbing on the routes sooner.
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
Jan 22, 2017 - 09:15am PT
Thanks for your response. Best of luck with the book project, I'll probably pick one up. Personally, I usually approach Rockfellow routes from the west as I like the west side camping/hang much better than the east. It's also not a big deal to link up a Rockfellow route with a Westworld or Whale route for a fun 'multi side' day from the west. Cheers
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
Jan 22, 2017 - 09:54am PT
Thanks for your hard work!
It sounds like writing a guide book is a nonprofit and thankless job!
Let us know when the east side guide book is available
Best
Ezra
Tanya B

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2017 - 07:41pm PT
Hey Greg,
I checked the tracking on your package and it appears to be stuck somewhere in PHX. They have not updated the tracking information since the 17th. Let me know if it gets there tomorrow and if not I will follow up. Tanya
jamesmac

Mountain climber
wherever the road takes me
Feb 6, 2017 - 12:15pm PT
We have best and most beautiful guidebook models around. Huge.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 6, 2017 - 12:34pm PT
I got mine.... Lots of good looking climbers who are climbing everything abound.

I haven't tried out the book yet but it opens up a new world of possibilities that I was not aware of before.

And its fun reading, in a climbers sort of fun way.

jamesmac

Mountain climber
wherever the road takes me
Feb 15, 2017 - 10:44pm PT
Bump for the best Cochise Stronghold guidebook ever written. East Side coming soon.
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Mar 4, 2017 - 08:33pm PT
Am on my way down there, enroute as I type. Where can I buy a copy of this guide in Tucson? Is the East Side book finished and for sale yet?

Arne
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
Mar 5, 2017 - 03:56am PT
Arne,
Summit hut will have it on speedway boulevard
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Mar 5, 2017 - 02:27pm PT
Thanks Ezra!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 5, 2017 - 07:33pm PT
Arne- Buy Geir Hundal's guidebook if you plan on climbing on the Eastside.
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Mar 9, 2017 - 11:18am PT
Steve I was going to call you but lost your number. Yes I bought Geir's book two years ago and have been chomping at the bit to go down. Just arrived in Tucson; a long drive. Now I've learned Cochise Dome is closed to climbing for falcons.

Anyway can't wait to get out there. I have the next two weeks to climb here.

Arne
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