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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Spectacular!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Hats off to Thomas and Stephan! Having spent seven weeks recently in the Karakoram with Thomas, I certainly know what he brings to the plate.
It took climbers of this caliber and this many years for a repeat Jeff's magnificent solo masterpiece.
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rurprider
Trad climber
Mt. Rubidoux
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Amazing! Definitely, three hardmen; Roger Schaeli, Thomas Huber, and Stephen Siegrist. Congratulations guys!! First, Wings of Steel, then, The Dawn Wall, and now, Metanoia. What's next?
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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North Ridge of Latok 1?
Ha ha...
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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^^^^^^
I think that needs a 1st ascent first.
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couchmaster
climber
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Badass. Be nice to see some pictures of this ascent. They must be out there someplace.
Here's a pic of Roger Schaeli climbing a couple years back from a Swiss site.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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The majority of this route has been repeated by Ueli Steck, among others, and he didn't have much interest in finishing it when I asked him about it during a speaking engagement here in Seattle a few months ago. He also commented that the ice conditions needed to be just so for the route to be reasonable.
A real coup for the second ascent team after all these years.
Congratulations guys!
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Watermann2
Mountain climber
Saluzzo Italia
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2017 - 06:37am PT
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Good Morning Everyone:
Here are the latest news of the climb on the legendary METANOIA Eiger North Face !!! Chapeau !!!
http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/jeff-lowe-eiger-metanoia-finally-repeated-by-thomas-huber-stephan-siegrist-and-roger-schaeli.html
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ Mr. Steve GroSsman:
Good morning Mr., I wanted to ask, please, to Her, what I read in his post (which Ueli Steck, with which you have spoken in Seattle, said he had climbed almost all METANOIA route) So if possible, I wanted to know where it is arrived at that height, (for example mid-wall) or more above) and why has not completed, the ladder up in top) 8 Perhaps the Route Metanoia very difficult conditions? I apologize very much because I'd like to make me better understand but with the automatic translator it is hard to explain how I wish!
This also because I had never read anything Steck of Metanoia, just that he, (Steck) said he wanted to do this climb, but his effort, plus the fact coming up very high (but where?) I never read anywhere.
If I could say something more she would be very grateful.
Thank you very much, and I salute you for your kindness.
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
Again I ask a question because I did not understand the article by HUBER. But the legendary Lowe (I have a picture with Miss Destivelle) at the base of the wall, before attacking (Miss Destivelle accompanied HIM LOWE) to attack the route) at the base of the Eiger north face wall) but it seems to me that instead of the big three climbers have passed from STOLLENTOCH or gallery window, if you prefer, am I wrong? Wondering why I can not understand where they started.
Thanks a lot for the answer.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Congrats to my bro Thomas on your SA of Metanoia!
Grab your delinquent brother and get your skinny asses back to El Cap so we can drink some beers.
Cheers,
"Piton"
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john hansen
climber
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Great story, thanks for the post Spiny
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Beautiful article! Thanks for the link spiny!
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Fantastic accomplishment, Congrats!
Now one of them can go solo the North Face of Ama Dablam, (about 7,200 feet of high angle ice) Summit, partially descend and camp at a preplaced tent with gear.. one small stip, Jeff did it , in one day.
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Spiny Norman
Social climber
Boring, Oregon
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Credit where it's due, Watermann2 alerted us to the story. Chapeau to him for doing so. I agree, this is a wonderful tale.
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Watermann2
Mountain climber
Saluzzo Italia
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2017 - 12:58am PT
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Good morning Mr. NORMAN, first thank you for Your kindness !!! Was right, I had read the article the great HUBER too quickly, so I had not figured out how they were going to hike, and though it seemed that the final summit in the attack, were not started from the base of the wall, but by Stollenloch ( window of the gallery) which is located in 600 meters from the base of the north wall, and that different roped choose (climbers) to directly pass on the north wall, avoiding the first part (the stem) of the wall (even to climb the Route Heckmair)
Thanks and best regards
_
"""""""""""""A second attempt followed on 28 December, but this too came to a halt when a storm set it. The trio returned on 29 December and, climbing directly from the ''''STOLLENLOCH""", embarked on their their attempt. After a bivvy close to the Central ledge the trio continued upwards, and reached the summit in the evening on 30 December 2016."""""""""""""""""
_
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jan 10, 2017 - 09:08am PT
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I didn't comment on this yesterday but it is one of the few things I read on supertopo yesterday and certainly the best. Bump.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 10, 2017 - 09:14am PT
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"Der Eiger? Moo!"
Moo bump
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Watermann2
Mountain climber
Saluzzo Italia
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2017 - 01:24am PT
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Good Morning Everyone, other information on the legendary climb METANOIA (Eiger North Face) of the LEGENDARY JEFF LOWE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CHAPEAU to Mr. LOWE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Many Greetings.
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web16a/wfeature-1991-jeff-lowe-metanoia
Here's an excerpt from Alpinist 41 by Jeff Lowe himself about doing the first ascent of Metanoia (VII 5.10 M6 A4, 1800m) on the Eiger North Face during February snowstorms in 1991. The route was recently climbed for the first time since then (see story at Alpinist.com). Jeff Lowe's Metanoia
http://www.alpinist.com/…/…/wfeature-1991-jeff-lowe-metanoia
Ecco un estratto da alpinista 41 da Jeff Lowe se stesso di fare la prima ascesa del metanoia (VII 5.10 M6 A4, 1800 m) sulla parete nord dell'eiger tormente di neve nel corso del mese di febbraio, nel 1991., il percorso è stato recentemente Scalato per la prima volta da allora (vedi la storia a alpinista. Com). Jeff Lowe's Metanoia
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web16a/wfeature-1991-jeff-lowe-metanoia
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 12, 2017 - 08:54am PT
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The peanut gallery docks them style points for not starting at the base on their successful ascent of the upper half of the wall.
I have consulted with the Grand Poobah of the Upper Butt Crack, and it is so.
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couchmaster
climber
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Jan 12, 2017 - 10:15am PT
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^^ So you are suggesting that the first sit start FA still awaits? :-)
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smith curry
climber
nashville,TN
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Jan 19, 2017 - 01:20pm PT
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yup... I didn't wanna be the first to gripe (esp as these guys were super respectful of Jeff's style and vision) but seemed a very different way to approach the climb---Keep bailing due to weather, start from the window etc...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 19, 2017 - 04:10pm PT
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I'm not aware of a single repeat attempt solo.
People sprint up the lower part of this route these days so claiming a second ascent starting from the window with "aid lines" in place seems a bit of a stretch to me too.
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Ed Webster
climber
beautiful Maine
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Jan 19, 2017 - 06:55pm PT
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Jeff Lowe's 1991 solo first ascent of Metanoia, in winter, up the Eiger's North Face, climbed without bringing a bolt kit, set the Alpine ethical bar about as high as it's ever been. As a result, Metanoia will always stand out as an exceptional and visionary route with a storied and unique history. So.... in my opinion, in order to rightfully claim the second ascent of Metanoia, the climbers involved must equal, or very closely match, the purity of the ethics Jeff Lowe consciously used during his 1991 first ascent.
I don't speak out on ethical issues very often, but this claimed first repeat of Metanoia has rankled me. I do not think this trio made the "true" second ascent of Metanoia, for several reasons:
1. They never accomplished a COMPLETE ground-to-summit, single-push ascent.
2. They had a team of three, which was either one, or two, climbers too many, compared to Jeff's solo ascent. A team of two.... well, okay. That's realistic. But a Team of Three ? TOO BIG.
3. Why was a 3-man team too large ? Because it significantly lessened the commitment level they faced on Metanoia. And, I'd like to ask, did any single one of the three climbers actually climb the ENTIRE route — like Jeff did ? Or did they each jumar several, or many, of the individual pitches ?
3. They also brought a bolt kit on at least one of their three attempts. And they PLACED an 8mm bolt for a belay anchor. Read the full descriptions of their three separate efforts.
4. Finally they also acknowledged clipping a pre-existing bolt ( which was obviously not placed by Jeff Lowe, nor used by him ) on another pitch.
5. Jeff Lowe did not bring a bolt kit on Metanoia, and he placed no bolts. Ethically, stylistically, and historically, this was Jeff Lowe's loud Statement, his acknowledgement of the efforts of the pioneers of Alpinism. These three climbers DID bring a bolt kit on the route ... AND they placed a bolt.
Given these facts, how can they possibly claim the second ascent of Metanoia ?
I don't think they can. No personal offense intended — but their ethics did not come close enough to equalling Jeff's.
___
Here's a picture I took of Jeff Lowe in 1991, one week after he had completed Metanoia.
The expression on his face says it all : " I just did the biggest climb of my life. "
Heartfelt congratulations, Jeff. very sincerely, Ed Webster
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 19, 2017 - 08:01pm PT
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Very well stated, Maestro Webster.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Jan 19, 2017 - 09:27pm PT
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Hi, Ed! A photo of mutual friends, from January 2015.
At Klatreverket in Oslo.
An interesting conundrum is whether any second ascent party can have the same experience as the first - even if equipment, conditions, and skills are the same, they know the way.
The major change from 1991 - 2006 may be equipment (boots, clothing, ice tools), and mixed climbing technique.
Ed: Facebook tells me that you're speaking on Tuesday in Montreal. Have fun!
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Jan 20, 2017 - 06:29am PT
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Those guys are awesome climbers and athletes, for sure, but I'm with Ed and the others with concerns over style here, especially starting from the Window on the final "repeat." If I try the Salathe a bunch of times, regularly bailing from the lower half of the route, do I still get credit for a repeat if SAR drops me off at Heart Ledge? Even if I've done Free Blast a bunch of times, I couldn't in good conscience claim a full ascent.
My 2 cents from the BAd Climbers peanut gallery.
BAd
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Cascade Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Jan 23, 2017 - 10:52pm PT
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bump
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 24, 2017 - 06:36am PT
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I'm glad to see that others have had the same concerns about this.
Do you think these men know in their heart of hearts that they came up short?
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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Jan 24, 2017 - 04:49pm PT
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interesting discussion. assuming (and I totally believe this to be the case) that what ed said was true, a bolt was placed and they started from the window. definitely, the second "ascent" while performed by talented and i am sure great guys, did in fact fall short of jeff's ascent. facts, matter. otherwise we will be talking about alternative facts like what trump gives out.
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Watermann2
Mountain climber
Saluzzo Italia
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2017 - 05:32am PT
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I apologize for the rough translation
Good morning Mr. Ed Webster (let me call YOU MASTER) You have made an excellent disquisition on this climb, a legendary climb of the legendary Very Great JEFF LOWE: I agree with YOU on His answer, without detracting from the 3 major climbers Huber- Siegrist and Schaeli, nothing to say, however, climbing Jeff Lowe is another thing, he is the Great LOWE started from the base of the wall, and only came to the toe (just never retire from Stollenloch and then back again and again (get on and off, going home to rest and then back up) So, without taking anything away from these 3 great climbers, what did the legendary JEFF LOWE is unmatched, remains one of the greatest masterpieces in 'mountaineering of all time, and then we say together to the Great LOWE:
CHAPEAU !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Master Ed Webster Dicit :
""""""""""""""""Jeff Lowe's 1991 solo first ascent of Metanoia, in winter, up the Eiger's North Face, climbed without bringing a bolt kit, set the Alpine ethical bar about as high as it's ever been. As a result, Metanoia will always stand out as an exceptional and visionary route with a storied and unique history. So.... in my opinion, in order to rightfully claim the second ascent of Metanoia, the climbers involved must equal, or very closely match, the purity of the ethics Jeff Lowe consciously used during his 1991 first ascent.
I don't speak out on ethical issues very often, but this claimed first repeat of Metanoia has rankled me. I do not think this trio made the "true" second ascent of Metanoia, for several reasons:
1. They never accomplished a COMPLETE ground-to-summit, single-push ascent.
2. They had a team of three, which was either one, or two, climbers too many, compared to Jeff's solo ascent. A team of two.... well, okay. That's realistic. But a Team of Three ? TOO BIG.
3. Why was a 3-man team too large ? Because it significantly lessened the commitment level they faced on Metanoia. And, I'd like to ask, did any single one of the three climbers actually climb the ENTIRE route — like Jeff did ? Or did they each jumar several, or many, of the individual pitches ?
3. They also brought a bolt kit on at least one of their three attempts. And they PLACED an 8mm bolt for a belay anchor. Read the full descriptions of their three separate efforts.
4. Finally they also acknowledged clipping a pre-existing bolt ( which was obviously not placed by Jeff Lowe, nor used by him ) on another pitch.
5. Jeff Lowe did not bring a bolt kit on Metanoia, and he placed no bolts. Ethically, stylistically, and historically, this was Jeff Lowe's loud Statement, his acknowledgement of the efforts of the pioneers of Alpinism. These three climbers DID bring a bolt kit on the route ... AND they placed a bolt.
Given these facts, how can they possibly claim the second ascent of Metanoia ?
I don't think they can. No personal offense intended — but their ethics did not come close enough to equalling Jeff's.
___
Here's a picture I took of Jeff Lowe in 1991, one week after he had completed Metanoia.
The expression on his face says it all : " I just did the biggest climb of my life. "
Heartfelt congratulations, Jeff. very sincerely, Ed Webster"""""""""""""""""""
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Watermann2
Mountain climber
Saluzzo Italia
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2017 - 12:10am PT
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Good Morning to All.
VIDEO - Metanoia Repeated by Huber, Siegrist and Schaeli
by Natalie Berry - UKC 03/Feb/2017
This news story has been read 2,741 times
We recently reported that Jeff Lowe's route Metanoia on the Eiger North Face in Switzerland had seen its first repeat by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli, 25 years after Jeff's legendary solo ascent (UKC News report
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/70930/video_-_metanoia_repeated_by_huber_siegrist_and_schaeli
Greetings.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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On the way to Latok 1 in 1978 there was much discussion about style and tactics. We were embarking into the unknown. Bolts were a lively topic of conversation...we brought some with us along with a hand drill.
Jeff was against bringing them on the climb and his arguments won out. I don't recall missing not having them.
Jeff has always been a pioneer who was always way ahead of the curve.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Aug 30, 2018 - 08:33pm PT
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Any additional history of this route?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 31, 2018 - 09:36am PT
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METANOIA: signed topo and route description, hard copies furnished by Jeff Lowe.
There is also a chapter on this route in the book Extreme Rock & Ice, 25 of the World's Great Climbs, Garth Hattingh, The Mountaineers Books, 2000.
From this book, in the chapter titled, Metanoia – Eiger, Mixed Paranoia from the Master of Ice, the route is graded 5.10/A5/M6, 1800 m, somewhat varying from Jeff's description below.
You lived an astonishingly remarkable and very human life, replete with guts, glory, mistakes and humility, El Jefe.
Berg Heil,
Roy
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