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Messages 1 - 29 of total 29 in this topic |
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 30, 2016 - 09:36pm PT
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you have to deal.
Post up some of your type 2 moments.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 30, 2016 - 09:57pm PT
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"Hey, I heard there was a 7-11 ripe for jacking around here."
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Nov 30, 2016 - 10:11pm PT
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Donini! Thanks for sharing these photos, you tough old SOB!
I'm very proud that we are friends!
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Those pictures are exactly why I was never really into true alpinism. Sure, climbing multipitch granite in the mountains is great fun. But true alpinism, the kind where the weather punishes you for days on end and everything is so frequently reduced to a fight for survival, just involves too much suffering, in my point of view. Although those big mountains sure are pretty and inspiring, in an awesome kind of way.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2016 - 09:34am PT
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The most important quality one must possess for true alpinism is a really short memory.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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^^^^^ I suppose wether or not you take photos could be a measure of how much mileage one has under these circumstances. Normally, you'd probably just say screw the photos, now we just gotta deal. But some people have so much mileage in this stuff that it's more like, there we were totally screwed, so we thought time to take photos! Either way, kudos!
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seano
Mountain climber
none
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Sorry, no photos of the next couple of hours spent downclimbing around crevasses off-route in a white-out. I try to avoid mileage in crap conditions, and usually stop taking photos when sh-t gets real -- it helps with the selective memory loss.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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On my most memorable alpine climb, the Walker Spur, I had a really nice Pentax camera in the pack.
I was so busy, I never took it out of the pack in 2 days. Wish I had taken a few when the weather got rough.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2016 - 05:36pm PT
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Fun but not in the sun.
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ecdh
climber
the east
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the difference between type 2 and type 3 is the ability to photograph it.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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All very evocative.
But the alpine isn't the only place where the weather changes and you have to deal and some insensitive dumb-ox takes a picture.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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"Alpine" is an adjective, not a noun.
Edit: You haven't been alpining again, have you?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2016 - 09:10pm PT
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When you wrap yourself in it as I have, it becomes a noun or even a verb.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2016 - 05:55pm PT
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The thousand yard stare that comes with not knowing for sure that you're going to be okay.
Come on, post up the knar even if it's only encountering tule fog in Fresno.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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from October
rock on left, air on right
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Plan A not looking so good:
Plan B:
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Can even happen on Royal Arches:
Start of day:
Lunch break deciding whether to keep going at the pendulum:
But it's not really alpine because you don't have to deal. You can escape and say Phew! I made the right choice given the lack of snow pickets for protection :)
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Glazed like a do-nut. Chimborazo, Ecuador.
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Peater
Trad climber
Salt Lake City Ut.
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Yes the Tule fog is as scary as any alpine climb I've ever done
Driving really slow cause you can't see anything! I come up on cars stopped in the driving lanes cause they can't see anything either instead of pulling off.
There was a huge, something like 140 car and truck pile up a number of years ago.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Dec 18, 2016 - 05:37am PT
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Jim, we missed you yesterday;) the weather was Puuurrrrfect in Vermont :) I have led this climb about 20 times or so but following it yesterday with gloves frozen stiff and the wind howling, busting the ice off the biners to clean the screws I was thiking, you got to be nuts to lead this sh#t.....
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2016 - 06:44am PT
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Right on tradmanclimbs I've always said, if you van climb in New England.....you can climb ANYWHERE!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Dec 18, 2016 - 07:07am PT
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We missed you;) I brought extra hand warmers for you...
It was actually seriously nasty there for a bit... so why exacatly do we tie ourselfs to the side on a frozen cliff, freeze half to death while dodging ice boulders for 45min while our partner tries not to die????
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2016 - 07:19am PT
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The three key ingredients for an alpine climber:
1) choose the right partners
2) be able to embrace failure
3) possess a SHORT memory
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Dec 18, 2016 - 07:34am PT
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Must be that short memory thing ;) parked in the wrong spot so we hiked twice as far as we needed to, we got spanked on our first objective so we had to thrash allong the base of the cliff for an extra half mile of unbroken trail/scrambeling, we all froze our butts off and at the end of the day we were happy.......
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2016 - 07:35am PT
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Yep!
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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Dec 19, 2016 - 03:53pm PT
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Holy shyt! What are yall doin up there? I hate cold! You guys got big balls!
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Dec 19, 2016 - 06:45pm PT
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Not a storm story but went ice climbing in -28 weather a few years back after having done only warmer ice climbing (-10 to +5 C) for a long time.
I said to my partner "Now I remember why I quit ice climbing in -28"
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 19, 2016 - 07:00pm PT
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"Oh, crap, I forgot my chalk bag!"
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