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| Messages 1 - 24 of total 24 in this topic |
Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 23, 2016 - 06:19pm PT
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So I now feel Kris Solem's sentiments, I hope that there are no glaring mistakes, but it's time to give birth to this baby. The guide is finally completed and the table of contents sums it all up. It's now ready to go to the printer! DUDE!
I really hope that this guide does some justice to a one of a kind and wonderful place. I am thankful to those who helped so much on this project and gave their encouragement to deliver. Ultimately, big thanks to Kevin Daniels for signing on as publisher and to Allison Monroe, that clairvoyant and talented graphic artist.
To each and every one of you that contributed, you made this possible, thanks, dwight
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Nov 23, 2016 - 07:28pm PT
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Very psyched to see the new book. It will really add to the area and Courtright is so good it really deserves a modern guide.
Thanks Dwight for all the hard work.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 23, 2016 - 08:34pm PT
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Wow Dwight. The TOC shows you covering a lot of crags, very impressive.
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Nov 23, 2016 - 11:55pm PT
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Exciting to hear the progress!
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Nov 24, 2016 - 12:25pm PT
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Can't wait. Such a great place to climb and it really needed a new guide.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2016 - 01:19pm PT
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Jody, I'll need your help with that section
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2016 - 02:25pm PT
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Getting Closer...here's the ad!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 14, 2016 - 02:44pm PT
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Looks good....
now the Needles and Courtright will be crawling with noobs!!!!!! Oh, the horror!!!!
I want, Need one
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Nanobody
Trad climber
Fresno, CA
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Dec 14, 2016 - 02:53pm PT
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Psyched to get a copy! I love climbing in Courtright, it will be nice to know the names and grades of things I am climbing :)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 14, 2016 - 02:55pm PT
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Needles and Courtright will be crawling with noobs!!!!!!
I'm thinkin' that noobs at The Needles is not a recipe for success. We saw a bit of that when the '92 book came out. Racking up at the trailhead etc. They mostly came, saw, and left.
:-)
340 pages. Wow, you've got me beat by about 100.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Dec 14, 2016 - 03:07pm PT
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Can't wait bump!
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Dec 14, 2016 - 03:42pm PT
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That guy looks desperate and scared. Where's Guy and Kris when I need their calming voices? ;)
Dwight, Kris and Daniel......you guys are awesome! Thanks for all your efforts. Kick ass!!!!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 14, 2016 - 04:48pm PT
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Right here Mooch....one pitch up.
so where is this Kernville Annex??? new digs?
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Dec 14, 2016 - 05:42pm PT
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What....
No Dinkey Dome ?
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Dec 14, 2016 - 08:44pm PT
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The only route I did on Dinkey Dome was with you Al. It was a bit unnerving when, unroped, we passed a couple of pitons. I don't recall where we actually went. Did you go back and do more?
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Dec 14, 2016 - 08:58pm PT
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Hey Steve....I think we did a new route at least partially independent. I recall seeing a topo for the dome somewhere. I bet flydude knows*
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2016 - 09:27pm PT
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Ahhhh...Dinkey Dome, where's Dinkey Dome?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Dec 14, 2016 - 10:39pm PT
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Hoffman; that's all I got to say about that.
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Dec 15, 2016 - 12:44am PT
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Al, When the Moser guide came out, I seem to recall I thought we had done something that didn't match the topos exactly, but I have no idea anymore. Somewhere between Routes F and K? No big deal. SMc
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Dec 15, 2016 - 07:46am PT
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Ahhhh...Dinkey Dome, where's Dinkey Dome?
'I see what you did there'. Donut Nation?
Guyzo -
In Riverkern, off of Cowbell. You, Kris, Jan, Rachael and the rest of the crew are always welcome and the beers are cold! A good place after hitting up The Needles/Dome Rock/Domelands etc. The house is about 1/2 mile south of the Kern Slab. Even has a redneck pool in the back! A few shots of the TBC...
The Gathering SpotThe TroughDays End Soaker (aka Hillbilly Hot Tub)The Belly UpGot a new project for you, Kris. I'll even throw in some KRBC goodness
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 29, 2017 - 01:54pm PT
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Got a new project for you, Kris.
I'm not sure what you mean there Dave, but if it's a Domelands guide, all I can say is:
Read my lips: no more guidebooks.
:-)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 29, 2017 - 02:36pm PT
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From Southern Sierra Rock Climbing
Sequoia/Kings Canyon
by Sally Moser, Greg Vernon, David Hickey
page 56 and 294...
Dinkey Dome
This rock is located about five miles upstream from the intersection of Dinkey creek Road and McKinley Grove Road. The 7,600-foot elevation allows comfortable climbing until late fall.
About 9¼ miles from Shaver Lake just past the Glen Meadow USFS facility, the partially paved and very potholed Rock Creek Road exits east from the Dinkey Creek Road. Follow this for 6 miles to where the road splits. Go right for 1.6 miles, crossing Cow Creek, then turn right again on a spur. Follow this for 2 miles to its end. From here, descend to Dinkey Creek, then over to the dome.
Note: seasonal road closures due to deer migration are likely in early season. Please respect any regulations and closures due to the protection of wildlife.
Routes A-D are on the north face, E-G on the northwest side, H-K on the west face.
A. Intimidator 5.7
B. Variation 5.7
C. Phantasmagoria 5.9-
D. Dinkey Was a Little Dog 5.10a
E. Hummingbird Dihedral 5.7 A2
F. Rinkey Dinkey 5.9+
G. Tamarack 5.8
H. Brown Streak 5.7
I. Dinkie's Twinkie 5.7
J. The Beveled Edge 5.6
K. Dinkey Classic 5.5
In addition to the listed routes, another climb is found in the center of Dinkey Dome. Welcome to Dinkey Dome (5.10c) ascends the prominent right-facing corner to the left of which is an arch. Two obvious gold dikes run up and left from the base of the rock below the arch. This route starts near the right dike and follows a series of flakes and ledges past several bolts to the top of a pedestal/right-facing corner and a two-bolt belay (165 feet 5.10a). The second pitch moves left below a corner past two bolts, then with a difficult move (crux) up to a series of ledges and overlaps for the second belay. From here, fourth class to the summit.
On the reverse side of the canyon across the creek is a crack climb called Sink Your Pinky Dinkey! that goes over a headwall at 5.9. To its right is a flake route. Upstream a short distance, a short sport-climbing wall with three bolted climbs in the .10+ range is found.
Intimidator 5.7 FA: Jeff Harris, Barry Chambers, 1986.
Variation 5.7 FA: Harris, Jeff Rush, 1986.
Phantasmagoria 5.9- FA: Chambers, Bill Friesen, 1987.
Dinkey Was a Little Dog 5.10a FA: Chambers, Leni Reeves, 1991.
Hummingbird Dihedral 5.7 A2 FA: Harris, Jeff Rush, 1986.
Rinkey, Dinkey 5.9+ FA: Chambers, Bruce Price, Len Singer, 1988.
Tamarack 5.8 FA: Ken Rose, Blaine Neely, 1985.
Brown Streak 5.7 FA: Harris, Chambers, 1986.
Dinkie's Twinkle 5.7 FA: Rose, Joe Ryan, 6-81 .
Dinkey Classic 5.5 FA: Harris, Chambers, 1986.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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May 29, 2017 - 03:50pm PT
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The route Steve McCabe and I did had no bolts or pins and is near route H. The fixed pins we saw must have been on Ken Rose's route as that route is the only route which pre-dates our route (1982). You would be hard pressed to find a route much harder than 5.8 on the low angle right side of the main face!
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