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Rexi
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 25, 2016 - 07:00am PT
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Allright
Planning on shifting my emphasis to more trad climbing and longer routes and some of my gear is due for replacement.
So what will i be climbing? Mostly 3-10 pitch climbs but am also planning on trying my first bigwall that would consist of some easy aid climbing but with emphasis on trying to find a wall with as much free climbing as i could crawl up but i would have to haul and all that stuff.
Harness
What harness would you recommend? I have always just used a sport harness for all my climbing, even alpine and ice climbing. I don´t have any problems stepping out of fixed leg loops without loosening the waist. So i was thinking something like the Black diamond chaos or some of the Edelrid harnesses that have fixed leg loops but reasonable padding.
Am i way off here? should i get a harness with adjustable leg loops (never been a big fan of those) or something with way more padding/comfort then the harnesses mentioned?
Rope
I was thinking about starting the season on a pretty thick single rope something like 10.5mm and then using that rope as a haul rope if i get on that big wall later in the season. Is that wise or should i invest in a static? somehow not sure it makes sense (or that much difference?) getting the static rope for one wall.
I won´t be using this gear until next spring so i´m asking really early but on my way to a cheaper location next weekend and might drop by a good shop to try to safe a little money. All advice very appreciated :)
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Oct 25, 2016 - 08:09am PT
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Rexi if you are thinking longer routes then comfort and lightweight are your two biggest factors. I love my Black Diamond Momentum. Single buckle up front....no need to double back. Adjustable leg loops (Key) since I wear in in summer over shorts and in winter over thick pants and long johns underneath. Stiff gear loops. That's all I need and nothing more.
in my opinion don't worry about a haul rope now. Wait until you have your first wall on the books....otherwise its just gonna sit around. For longer trad routes, get a nice 60M rope that's dry treated an bi-colored so you never have issues with long rappels and knowing where the middle of the rope is. Its really a life saver and well worth the cost. Have a blast and be bold and be safe!
Scott
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Oct 25, 2016 - 10:19am PT
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One thing to consider is a double-rope system if wandering pitches are in your future. It can reduce rope drag and also you are ready to go for longer rappers to get off more quickly. Some people like smaller second lines just for rapping but I also like the idea of climbing on two strands to avoid another potential single point of failure. I think I'm in a minority on this one.
For harnesses: if you are into squeeze chimneys, look for ones with minimal clutter on waist and also a low profile for the waist buckle so it doesn't catch on edges as you slide upward in contact with the rock.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Oct 25, 2016 - 12:22pm PT
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I don't find the advantages of a static line worth it on a big wall. (Full disclosure: I've never found their advantages worth it for anything but rescue situations.) I'd rather use a dynamic single rope as a hauling line. That way, if one rope gets nicked (which is not uncommon) I have a backup.
In addition to micronut's advice about light weight and comfort, I've found my big wall failures probably stem more from some unanticipated mishap (e.g., failure of or dropping a crucial piece of gear) low enough on the route to feed my subconscious fear and desire to descend. The more I can have equipment serve double duty as a backup, the less likely I'll fail.
John
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 25, 2016 - 02:40pm PT
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You don't need a special harness for multipitch and big wall.
Don't need a static line for hauling, either.
I've done El Cap many times; always used a smaller diameter (currently 7.7mm) dynamic rope for hauling.
The same rope you can use for 2-rope rappels.
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Rexi
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2016 - 05:22am PT
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Thanks for the info guys. Will take a closer look at the harnesses you have mentioned.
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Spiny Norman
Social climber
Boring, Oregon
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Oct 26, 2016 - 07:58am PT
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I have and like a Metolius harness, but I think you'll find that most here who have used a Misty Mountain Threadworks harness won't touch anything else (do a search, there are several threads). That's what I'll get when it's time to replace the Metolius.
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