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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 14, 2016 - 03:03pm PT
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After reading the "Dawn Wall" thread and people speculating that Tommy will probably never do the route again, it got me thinking, did Harding ever repeat his route on The Nose?
I'm sure during the initial fixing and moving ropes up he climbed the initial pitches many times over, but did he ever come back and do it again? Doesn't matter what style but I know he continued to put up new routes and continue climbing after The Nose.
First recon on The Nose: July 1957
Summit topout of FA Nov 1958
Died 2/27/02
He climbed a lot in the 60's and 70' so that gives him about 22 years before retirement...
DID the Batso ever do it in A DAY!!!???
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 14, 2016 - 03:45pm PT
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Yeah, he repeated ......
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Oct 14, 2016 - 04:35pm PT
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I heard the story of where he came back to did it later in life.
He told the younger guys who he was going to climb with: "I'll be around to do it". They didn't realize he meant he'll be the shape round.
At their first bivy he took out a roll of duct tape and taped his boots to his legs, since he had lost a boot on an earlier ascent. And proceeded to not remove his boots for the rest of the ascent.
On the last pitch they were running out of daylight and Batso was following. He was using aiders to climb the last pitch on belay. His partners called down and said why don't you switch over to jugging the rope it'll be faster. He yelled up "f*#k you, I'm going to enjoy this last pitch the way I want". No doubt reliving one of the most glorious times of his life.
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jsb
Trad climber
Bay area
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Oct 14, 2016 - 06:42pm PT
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Awesome. :)
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Oct 14, 2016 - 09:02pm PT
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With Mike Corbett and Steve Bosque, I believe. Late 80's?
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Caveman
climber
Cumberland Plateau
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Oct 14, 2016 - 09:24pm PT
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Laid line and and shoulder Dulfersitz pad. What a picture!
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Oct 14, 2016 - 09:36pm PT
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So not many sends for Warren, but he prolly spent more nights on the Nose than Hans did in his 100 sends:)
I see from that one pick he was left handed, cool.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 14, 2016 - 09:45pm PT
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This small wooden box in this photo
I saw it several times on top of the El Capitan just sitting there with piles of rock around and on it.
It wasn't on this tree anymore.
Then one time we landed on the top the helicopter rotor wash blew the top off and all these scraps of paper went flying.
I watched these paper scraps sail off into the air being liberated from their little wooden prison.
The end ......
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Oct 15, 2016 - 12:00am PT
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Bosque tells me about the ascent with Harding and Corbet all the time. They tried to get him to use ascenders but every time he would start to use them, he would get exasperated and switch back to jugging with prussics. Guy was an animal.
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Fossil climber
Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
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Oct 15, 2016 - 09:47am PT
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Warren phoned me here in Atlin - I think it was about 1977. He said something like, "Hey you want to go do the Nose again? Twentieth anniversary?"
I thought he was joking, but he wasn't. I suggested he had dropped a few billon neutrons somewhere, but wished him luck if he tried it.
Regarding that wooden summit register, we signed it as shown in the above pic. But when we came back later to clean the fixed ropes off the site the tree had blown over. Or maybe it just fell over in protest.
I don't know what became of the records.
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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Oct 15, 2016 - 10:26am PT
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Thanks crankster, If I member it right, Harding wanted to do the 30th Anniversary climb in 1988 but he was a year off and did it in 1989, not sure why, injured I think?
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Fossil climber
Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
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Oct 15, 2016 - 11:04am PT
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TH - No, never did it again.
When I heard Warren was terminal I phoned him. Dick Long was there. Harding was able to say only a few words but drifted off...
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Oct 17, 2016 - 09:54am PT
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I believe he did it twice.
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