Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 69 of total 69 in this topic |
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 1, 2016 - 06:13am PT
|
the most imposing group of peaks on planet earth.
the three peaks nestled shoulder to shoulder (Latok 1, Ogre 2 and the Ogre) constitute the most difficult summits to attain on the third celestial body circling the sun.
There are also countless other notable peaks.
Many thanks to Thomas Huber for putting together the seven week trip and inviting George Lowe, Thom Englebach and me to go along. For George and me it was a reunion 38 years in the making.
It's a four day approach from Askole to base camp.
Our rather palatial base camp
A hike with some members of a girl's college on our return to Skardu.
|
|
Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
|
|
Wow, I would love to see that place. Thanks so much for these photos. Were you guys able to climb anything?
BAd
|
|
rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
|
|
This is the stuff most of us only dreamed of.
What an adventurer and showman El Donini is. Bring it on amigo.
|
|
apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
|
|
Really, really amazing.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
They couldn't come up with something more fitting than 'Ogre 2' for such a peak?
I'm glad everyone is back safe and sound!
|
|
nita
Social climber
chica de chico, I don't claim to be a daisy.
|
|
*
*
Wow...Stunning photos..just Beautiful... thanks!
|
|
skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
|
|
An amazing area and I'm glad everyone is back safe. The Ogre 2 name struck me as strange too; they ran out of names already?
|
|
mountain girl
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
|
|
WOW!!!! Stunning, thank you for posting these incredible pictures.
|
|
mcreel
climber
Barcelona
|
|
Yeah, that ridge on Ogre 2 is too much! A peak that needs it's own name.
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
WOW!
Jim, you've been living the life, traveling and climbing
back there! AWESOME!
|
|
John M
climber
|
|
Thanks for the pics Jim. Beautiful. Looks like an amazing place.
|
|
Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
|
|
Wonderful photos Jim. Thanks for taking the time to post them.
|
|
Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
Awe-some. Peaks I always dreamed of climbing.
|
|
phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
|
|
I hope you had a fantastic trip and also glad you are back safe and sound. Thanks for the beautiful photos.
Phyl
|
|
i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
|
|
the most imposing group of peaks on planet earth.
Yep!
|
|
Happy Cowboy
Social climber
Boz MT
|
|
WOW! incredible place. Glad you're home safe and sound. can't wait to see/hear more...thanks DB
|
|
Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
|
|
Incredible, thanks for the photos...looking forward to the story.
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
|
|
Jim, I can't thank you enough for keeping your head in the game, and sharing some of these world class travels with us!
Peace, Bruce
|
|
norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
|
|
Jim, Thanks for posting these photos so soon after your return. The peaks are so enticing in your pictures. It's easy to see they were taken with a climbers eye. Glad you made it home safe and reasonably sound. Welcome home.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
Awesome photos, glad you guys are back safe! Can't wait to climb some cracks at IC and hear the story!
|
|
Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
|
|
HAR Pinnacle Makes me so horny!
great trip and great photos
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
Should be re-named to the Gnar pinnacle.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2016 - 06:42pm PT
|
We were presented with the Kyle/Scott situation as soon as we arrived. Kudos to Thomas....he put considerable time and recources into play immediately.
Kyle and Scott's intended route went up the shaded face on the photo of Ogre 2.
There will be a memorial for them in SLC on 10/9. Efforts are being made to get a visa for Ghafoor, their longtime camp manager/cook, so that he can attend.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Here's to life and living!
|
|
hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
|
|
Very beautiful area. Looking forward to the tale
|
|
TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
|
|
Glad you are back!
|
|
AP
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
WE WANT MORE
|
|
Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
|
Stunning views.
That's no country for old men...
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2016 - 04:11pm PT
|
I'm working on a book about the Latok saga from 38 years ago to the present. That and the fact that Trump threads are dominating a climbing forum lead me to not be too energized about expanding this thread. Suffice to say that the north side of Latok remains unclimbed and that a couple of 70+ year old climbers, along with their 55 year old sidekick, huffed and puffed up to 6,000 meters.....unfortunately the peak (Suma Brakk) was 6,161 meters but the situation dictated a strategic retreat.
There is a picture of Suma Brakk above.
The trip was sad with the deaths of Kyle and Scott, trying with the initial bad weather and very exhausting at times but, my oh my, I can't tell you how nice a complete seven week reprieve from political news was!
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2016 - 05:45pm PT
|
Jim....ST has become incredibly frustrating, you work your butt off and then you have to bump your own thread to keep it visible., Perhaps I should post a climbing thread on a political forum....the novelty might spark some interest.
I know exactly where your photo was taken....at the rest area near the terminus of the Biafo Glacier. Our basecamp was only four days out of Askole, closer than the Baltoro and zero trekkers.
I may organize a trek next year taking in the Latok/Ogre cirque and then over the Simla Pass to Snow Lake. Perhaps you might be interested. The outfitter that Thomas Huber uses, Shipton Tours, is excellent and a great value.
|
|
Yeti
Trad climber
Ketchum, Idaho
|
|
Jim:I am just one of MANY who look forward to your book and very much enjoy your ST posts. Don't let the pathetic Trump and those who pander to him and his contemptible dishonesty keep you away from either. Excelsior!
|
|
crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
|
|
Jim, the forum can survive one Trump thread, given that the fate of the planet likely hangs in the balance.
That said, your photos are incredible. I've thought of you often during your absence, knowing you and your mates were dealing with extraordinarily circumstances.
Eager to hear and see more.
|
|
phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
|
|
7 weeks politics free - heaven.
|
|
rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
|
|
I feel your pain Jim. There is a vast array of places for political discussions, but precious few for climbing. Trying to bump real climbing/outdoor content against a political troll thread with 6600+ posts is a Sisyphean task.
To change metaphors, this post is just a grain of salt added to the bump, but for for whatever fleeting time on page 1 that it buys, here ya go.
|
|
thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
|
|
wild mountain pics! HAR is so dreamy!
|
|
BigB
Trad climber
Red Rock
|
|
Climbing bump!!!
|
|
rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
|
|
I'll wait for the book if you can keep it politic free.
|
|
Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
|
|
Welcome back sir Jim,
Looks like an amazing place.
I find it best to just totally ignore the politics threads.
Looking forward to hearing more.
|
|
fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
|
|
Good God.... please don't involve our political puppets.
Has that Har tower thingy been climbed? Looks awesome...
|
|
Hardly Visible
Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
|
|
Nice pictures Jim, I hope you are kind enough to find the time to post some more of them in this bitter old folks forum. It gives us something to look forward to besides bingo night and Trump arguements here at Sunnydale convalescent home for worn out climbers.
|
|
yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
|
|
Glad to hear everyone is safe. That Suma Brakk looks pretty cool.
|
|
Alex Baker
climber
Portland
|
|
Jim -
Have there been successful ascents of the ogres or latok from then choktoi side ever?
|
|
Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
|
|
Excellent pics Jim. Looks gorgeous.
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
Politics or climbing. I'm an equal opportunity bumper. Thanks, Jim, for those marvelous pictures and reminding me that my state of mind, rather than my age, defines my limits in the mountains.
John
|
|
nopantsben
climber
europe
|
|
Very nice, Jim. Thanks a lot.
What a pleasure it must have been returning there with George! Even if the circumstances must have been hard at times.
Looking forward to hearing more.
|
|
kk1982
Trad climber
|
|
WOW, these pics make my mind (and palms) sweat.
|
|
Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
|
|
Mr Donini is my role model. Sweet stuff. Aside from the deep missfortune up there this summer, the good life.
|
|
Al Barkamps
Social climber
Red Stick
|
|
It'd be mighty useful if Jim could load up a .kmz file to google earth for us to see what his itinerary looked like. As it is, it's hard to imagine routes, camps, side hikes, and nearby peaks.
Google Earth is also remarkably lean on details for this area and what there is tends to be stuff loaded up mainly by Russians and Euros for largely trekking routes.
This is an area that I've long wanted to visit as part of a photo expedition (as well as the area around Concordia): set up some sort of a base camp and climb up to best photo-ops. This would involve a lot of homework in advance; hard to do without background materials.
|
|
Karla
climber
Colorado
|
|
Thanks Jim for sharing a little slice of what was surely a surreal adventure. I can't wait to get a first person narrative; you are truly inspiring. Keep on keeping on!
kar
|
|
brotherbbock
climber
Alta Loma, CA
|
|
Bump to an actual climbing thread.
Do you got any more pics to share please?
Preferably some radical exposed climbing shots ;)
Thank you good sir.
|
|
phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
|
|
Bump for climbing and adventure.
|
|
Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
|
|
You go Donini!
Write that book!
|
|
johntp
Trad climber
socal
|
|
Wednesday morning Bump!
|
|
steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
|
|
Jim,
Welcome back, and thanks for the great photo's!
|
|
Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
|
|
Duuuuuuuuuuude! Siiiiiiiiiiiiiiiick!
|
|
cowpoke
climber
|
|
wonderstruck and bumping for fellow lurkers checking in to see if anything interesting remains...
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
I'm curious about the travel within Pakistan and how risky it is to try and climb the Brakks from the perspective of just travelling there, not just the climbing.
|
|
brotherbbock
climber
Alta Loma, CA
|
|
Donini don't make us beg....
More pics please...
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
Donini don't make us beg....
More pics please...
+100!
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
|
|
Welcome back man. Thanks for posting up.......don't let the idiots scare you away from this place. The climbing stoke is still high among many of us and you going out there and getting after it when we are stuck at work or planning our next mission is what this site is all about. Get some stoke give some stoke. That's how I see Supertopo. Thanks for all you give. Any shots of you guys going up? Please share some, I'd love to see what kind of terrain you fellas got on!
Scott
|
|
Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
|
|
Bump for proper climbing content!
Welcome home.
|
|
PSP also PP
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
Bump; amazing mountains!
|
|
ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
|
|
I was horrified to see donini "dance" or whatever he was doing... you can't unsee that sort of thing
|
|
dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
|
|
Those peaks are RAD!
|
|
mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
|
|
A culmination of stupendicity.
Skyscrapers that make man's efforts seem like Legos.
There are few men to match those mountains.
Thank you, donini.
Jim Donini
Born: July 23, 1943
Philadelphia, PA, USA
Nationality American
Occupation: Alpine Climber
Jim Donini (born July 23, 1943) is an American rock climber and alpinist, noted for a long history of cutting-edge climbs in Alaska and Patagonia.[1] He was president of the American Alpine Club from 2006 to 2009,[2] and a 1999 recipient of the AAC's Robert and Miriam Underhill Award.[3]
Notable climbs
1976 Torre Egger - First Ascent - with John Bragg, and Jay Wilson from the United States, by climbing first to the col between the Egger and Cerro Torre, the Col of Conquest, and then up the ridge to the peak. The ascent was hampered by bad weather and took from December 1975 to February 22, 1976 when the 3-person team summited.[4]
1978 North Ridge on Latok I, Karakorum Range, Pakistan. Attempt with Michael Kennedy, George Lowe and Jeff Lowe (climber) (all USA).[5]
1991 Cobra Pillar on the east face of Mount Barrille, Ruth Gorge, Alaska Range, Alaska, USA (VI 5.10+ A3 WI5? 2300m) FA with Jack Tackle (USA), June 5–10, 1991.[6]
1991 Viper Ridge, south spur of southeast ridge to ridge, Mount Foraker, Alaska Range, Alaska USA. FA with Jack Tackle (USA), June 11–17, 1991.[7]
2000 Lightning Spur, south face Thunder Mountain, Alaska Range, Alaska USA. FA with John Bragg (USA).[8]
|
|
PSP also PP
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Oct 10, 2016 - 10:24pm PT
|
Bump!
|
|
Greg Child
climber
|
|
|
Oct 12, 2016 - 02:05pm PT
|
Hi Jim, how many times has the north ridge on Latok I been attempted to date?
|
|
HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
|
|
|
Oct 12, 2016 - 04:06pm PT
|
Welcome back Jim. Well done to you George and your 55 year old sidekick (Englebach?) for getting to 6000 meters.
Many of us were following news of the evolving Kyle/Scott tragedy here.
|
|
John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
|
|
|
Oct 13, 2016 - 08:16am PT
|
Looking forward to seeing more pics and hearing about the Trip.
Your book will be a best seller!
Thanks for sharing.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 69 of total 69 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!