Whiskey Cliff Climbing Area (next to Eagle Lake Cliff)

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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 18, 2016 - 12:22pm PT
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The Whiskey Cliff is a larger, more broken, and slightly lower angle version of Eagle Lake Cliff. Whereas Eagle Lake Cliff has more Yosemite-style cracks, this has more featured cracks, face holds, and edges. While only a few hundred feet from Eagle Lake Cliff, it sits in a narrow canyon and remains hidden until you reach the base. There’s a sweet swimming hole at the far end of the cliff. This is just the beta for rock climbing. There is also ice climbing in the winter. This area is called Eagle Creek Cliff in the South Lake Tahoe SuperTopo guide.

The Whiskey Cliff Near Eagle Lake Cliff
The Whiskey Cliff Near Eagle Lake Cliff
Credit: Chris McNamara

Approach: Walk to Eagle Lake Cliff. You’re now only 300 feet away, but the Whiskey Cliff still is not visible. From below Space Walk (about the middle of Eagle Lake Cliff), continue southwest 70 feet through the talus without gaining or losing much elevation. Eventually there should be a little trail that leads to the top of the cliff and skirts down around the left. There is a trail along the base of the entire cliff.

Approach GPS Tracks:
Strava - https://www.strava.com/activities/708592621
GPX File - https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwKJ7Pb9CRazemN4SGltMXB0UFE

Credit: Chris McNamara

When to climb: Climb on hot summer mornings when the climbs are shaded or on cold spring
or fall afternoons when the routes go into the sun. If you show up and the routes are too cold, then walk across the river to the Eagle’s Nest. Because the climbs are above a seasonally raging river, it’s smart to bring a water filter so you don’t have to carry water on the 45-minute approach.

Toprope / Mini-Traxion Beta: It’s easy to walk to the anchors for routes 1-19. Routes 19-32 usually require either rapping in off a tree or leading a 5.10a or 5.10b trad route. A 60m rope lets you toprope most climbs but a 70m rope is more convenient. This place in a “mini-traxion dream.” Cruise in with shoes, harness, mini traxion/trango cinch and a 120” 9mm rope and you are good to go! If you run or hike fast and are efficient, you can probably get 10 routes in car to car in under 3 hours.

Cell Phones/Emergency Contact: Cell phones with AT&T BARELY work next to the anchor for route 3.

**The Routes:
**This is still a work in progress. Some routes still need names. Some routes are dirty and some are very clean. Some routes with names are already named ice climbs (please email chrismcn7@gmail.com and let me know what they are).

Here is a spreadsheet (partial screenshot below) with all the climbs so far. More to come!
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/12ZNWx3qlGzE6_hGJJc4MrVvt2gYHTAcvc0H3C_BUD04/edit?usp=sharing

Whiskey Cliff - Left
Whiskey Cliff - Left
Credit: Chris McNamara

Whiskey Cliff - Right
Whiskey Cliff - Right
Credit: Chris McNamara

Swimming hole and waterfall at the base of the cliff.
Swimming hole and waterfall at the base of the cliff.
Credit: Chris McNamara

When the sun hits the wall around noon, head to the swimming hole and waterfall upstream.

Brandon Caskey on a Bumble Bee 10a at the Whiskey Cliff.
Brandon Caskey on a Bumble Bee 10a at the Whiskey Cliff.
Credit: Chris McNamara

Stewart Johnson

Mountain climber
lake forest
Sep 18, 2016 - 09:39pm PT
Nice work on all the Exellent rock climbs
Chris!
I've often admired the stellar stone
while ice climbing in the canyon.
And the best lines are looking
Cleaned up in the past few years
Thanks very much for the work!

As far as naming the routes
Differently for the rock climbs
Than the long ago established ice climbs
It is a tricky ethical dilemma.

When I get to a real computer I'll try
To get the ice climbs matched to your
Numbered phototopo
Once again thanks for the climbs
Can't wait to hop on a few!

Cheers Paul Teare

Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2016 - 12:39pm PT
Thank you! I would be psyched to get the ice climb names in there
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Old West Crackramento
Sep 19, 2016 - 01:07pm PT
This is the area formerly known as Eagle Creek Cliff, eh? I thought it was in a guidebook of yours already? Regardless, more beta doesn't hurt! My favorite aspect of the cliff is you mostly get around the corner from the highly traveled Eagle Lake shore and things start to feel wilderness-esque.

edit: Ah! I see you say as much about the former name and guidebook inclusion. Reading rules.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2016 - 07:29pm PT
Hi Paul, it would be awesome if you were able to match up the route names! Thank you.
Stewart Johnson

Mountain climber
lake forest
Oct 24, 2016 - 02:38pm PT
Heres what i came up with Chris,
routes #1 and#5 usually get pretty short in a proper winter
and they make fun soloes with thin ice.

#12-15 Kentucky Moonshine
#18-19 Johnnie Walker
just left of #20 The Patron
#26 Jack&Coke
#27-28 Cutty Sark
#33 Southern Comfort

Cheers!
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