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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 6, 2016 - 10:15am PT
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Yesterday Crusty and I did the first ascent of The Vulcan's Artery on the Stawamus Chief.
The Artery is part of a prominent treed weakness that starts at the bottom of the Sheriff's Badge and traverses for almost a mile up and right across the Chief, through the South Gulley, under The Pan Wall to the top of the Roman Chimneys.
99% of this weakness is mellow hiking on a forested ledge/sill but barred by a gnarly 20 meter basalt ramp and a fiercely exposed 10 meter overhanging section we dubbed "The Occlusion".
Ms. Chief and I recced up to The Occlusion and Luke "The Kid" Cormier and I recced from the Roman Chimney down to it a couple of years ago.
This year Luke and I rolled our sleeves up and trundled several tons of basalt into the rainy night by headlamp and with Crusty's help, we brushed out key sections of the trail and bolted across the traverse.
The bolted traverse went free at somewhere between a Mother Middle 5.9 and Smoke Bluffs 10b and Crusty and I forged on all the way to The South Summit.
With Lorrie and Corey's blessing, I brought some of Cozzy's ashes back from the gathering in Josh and we brought them along while working on the project.
Yesterday in my haste, I forgot bring them but plan to take them up the route and spread them at the top of The Roman Chimneys which of course is where Cozzy finished his first free ascent of the Baldwin/Cooper variants of The Grand Wall.
Cozzy was a good friend, a passport carrying Canuck and a big part of Squamish climbing history so we've dedicated our efforts to his memory dubbing this obvious adventure hike, "The Lost Coz".
More photos to follow.
PB
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Thats pretty cool.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Awesome Chief!!
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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That's a nice tribute to Scott there Perry. A friend like you is a rare find. Nice work.
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
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Just sent chills up my spine. But of a nice kind.
Pretty special stuff there.
Susan
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Nice Perry....a fitting tribute !
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Good work, fellows! Glad that someone finally took up that unique challenge, and for a very good cause, too. The first girdle traverse (of a sort) at Squamish.
The discontinuity must have been fearsomely exposed.
Did you see any signs of Northwest Passage?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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A line that pulls a lot of threads together. Cheers.
It seems you would likely intersect Northwest Passage somewhere along the way.
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couchmaster
climber
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Great stuff up there Chief. Makes me wish all those Coz posts on Supertopo hadn't been deleted back when. If he was alive I suspect he would have been right in the middle of the "hating on Hillary" in a big way in the political threads going on these days on the ST forum.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Very nice. Looking forward to climbing The Lost Coz sometime and reminiscing about my old friend. Well done, Chief!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Great tribute Perry.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Good tribute to your friend.
It will keep his name alive.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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That is so cool, a grand climb in rememberance of a great climber. He surfed a wide loop, the roller coaster of life sent Cozz to the stratosphere and back, In so many ways this climb sounds like it brings the circle home to a close.
thnx for sharing
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Perry- It is amazing that so few talented Valley climbers ever chose to spend time climbing in Squamish as fantastic as it is. I recall you being a bit hurt by that when I ran into you quite a few years ago on the Grand Wall.
Who else did any routes of quality from California? I can't recall seeing anyone looking through the guidebook casually.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Looks like an awesome adventure-climb!!!
Throughout the movie, "Walking Tall", isn't that Squamish where a lot of the scenery is shot? It's the re-make of the original Walking Tall. This one with 'The Rock' instead of Bronson.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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The Chief, showing the approximate line of the route. It follows a fault for most of its length, much of it including trees. Perhaps Glenn can elucidate, also as to the origins of the name Vulcan's Artery, which is roughly the right 1/3 of the climb.
I believe that they climbed from left to right, so the right to left variation awaits a descent.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Fred and Scott. Who would have guessed that the former would outlive the later?
From La Gota Fria to the Grand, The Lost Coz crosses a few other routes. Let most of them RIP but would anyone be interested in an arrow to show us the start to Pan Tease?
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Solid.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Cozzy was a good friend, a passport carrying Canuck Good enough for me!
Okay, so I now I looked at the line on the photo that Mighty Hiker posted-- beautiful, man!
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Beautiful Perry!
So stoked to meet you at Cozzy's memorial!
Thanks eH, now I have reason to go to Canada, maybe eH. What did you rate that rig, anyway eH?
Cheers Bro!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Should anyone do variations to the route, possible names:
Coz and Effect.
Becoz it is There. (With a tip of the hat to George Leigh-Mallory.)
"Coz"mic variants may also be possible.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Coz gives this a THUMBS UP> PERRY.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2017 - 11:14pm PT
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WBraun
climber
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Yeah .... Coz was cool.
He was especially funny when he'd go on his "rants" ... lol
Great climbing partner for sure!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nice going Perry!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2017 - 10:44pm PT
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Last Sunday (July 30) I finally made time to take the handful of Cozzy's ashes I bought back from the memorial up the Vulcan's Artery (aka The Lost Coz), over all four summits and back down the Saddle.
It seemed right to take his ashes on one last tour of the Chief.
This past Sunday, Nadine, Luke and I took Cozzy's ashes for one last trip up The Lost Coz to the top of the Roman Chimneys and spread them at the top of the last pitch of The Grand Wall, the route he did the first free ascent of.
Luke sprinkled some ashes down the last pitch.
Nadine and I spread the rest right where a peregrine had ripped apart and eaten a seagull.
Seemed pretty fitting.
Luke had to head down right away and Nadine and I traversed the four summits north and down the Saddle again.
Pretty awesome outing and highly recommended.
Cozzy's not lost.
His legacy and spirit are easy to find for anyone who cares to observe and reflect.
A part of him will always be up there on the Chief with the ravens and peregrines watching over him.
In closing, although this route will eventually tidy up nicely, in it's present state, traversing the upper portion exposes anyone below to the risk of rockfall.
Until I've had time to do some more work up there, I'd appreciate people not tampering with my gear.
I was really disappointed to find someone had liberated the carabiners securing my rope to belay anchors and ask that they man up and put my carabiners back.
PB
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2018 - 04:32pm PT
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Went up to hike the Coz Way with Kris today.
Really disappointed to discover someone has liberated all our rigging including bolt hangers.
Did it just look like free swag?
Maybe someone didn't think the route was a good idea?
Either way, bummer.
PB
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sorry to hear that Perry.
When you told the story of putting in that route (way? path?) I thought -- and I'll wager that everyone here thought -- What a fantastic way to honor your friend, and to give something to the community in his name.
Perhaps the theft was done in ignorance, and someone will be able to take the real message to whoever did the deed, and they'll realize the impact of their action, come forward, and help with the rebuild.
Probably not, but one can hope.
D
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2018 - 05:30pm PT
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I can live with brute ignorance.
Hate to see someone upset though.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sadly, Squamish has a long history of petty theft. When I lived in Seattle and climbed there regularly I never left anything in my car and left the doors open to prevent smashed car windows.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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It was a via feratta?? maybe an ethics thing?? maybe folks need to know what it was about???
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Prolly some visiting Americans.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2018 - 06:40pm PT
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The Coz Way is currently free at 10b and had a handline fixed across the 10 meter "Occlusion".
The few moves of scrapply face climbing in an eight km adventure hike don't seem to be the point once you're there in your running shoes and yarding across on a half dozen draws seems logical.
The vibe from the few locals who have done it before the gear was stripped seemed pretty positive.
While there's been some discussion as to whether a few rungs would be appropriate, the jury is very much out on that question.
There's still a lot of work cleaning up loose rock and anyone who ventures out in it's current state could easily knock something off and jeopardize people below.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Sounds like it's time for a small GoFundMe campaign to replace the stolen gear.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Sorry to hear this - I'm looking forward to giving this unique route a try sometime this year. Perhaps steel permadraws would work? A rope linking them would need to be regularly replaced, but then climbers would usually have one of their own anyway, to get to that point. Anyway, I'd chip in for permadraws, or whatever anti-theft solution is decided on.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2018 - 08:08pm PT
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I'll figure out something a bit more tamper proof.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Maybe put up a plaque or two commemorating Coz in the fixed gear area so people realize this route is a tribute and they shouldn't mess with things.
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Looks great Perry. I would chip in too to replace some of the stolen gear.
TM
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2018 - 02:55pm PT
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A little math for consideration.
36 Stainless hangers @ $4.00 each $144
36 Locking carabiners @ 17.50 each $630
150 meters 7/16 static @ $3.50 meter $525
Approximate replacement cost $ 1299
That would go a long ways towards a pretty decent campfire guitar.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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the Via feratta in telluride had steel cable on it as well as rungs.
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RURP_Belay
Big Wall climber
Bitter end of a bad anchor
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So sorry to hear about the theft, Perry.
It seems that wire rope through glue-in eyebolts then secured on the ends with swages or wire rope clip/thimble combination would take a good stride towards deterring theft. The wire rope would probably last longer than the static rope, as well.
Glue-in bolts, as mentioned, are bomber & not worth the effort to remove. If someone cuts those, it's personal.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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I am amazed and puzzled to hear about the removal.
But the Lost Coz was a perfect adventure for a new friend, a non-climber.
edit:
I'd be glad to put money up for the loss and possible re-installation.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Cragman sent me some hangers a few years ago and I have some left I would gladly donate.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Coz will get those theifs they will burn!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2018 - 11:42am PT
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Good one Jeff!
Cozzy would be pissed as hell and rant himself right off the Forum again.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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yes, he would! Miss ya Perry!
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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I really hope that the community can encourage the person (s) responsible to own up to this. If you've got an issue with the way a route is set up, have a discussion. Most people are reasonable, and you may bring an opinion or idea to the table that the FA hadn't considered.
Vigilante acts like this are cowardly and solve nothing. Many climbers had tried the route and liked it, despite it being unusual by Squamish norms. Why should one person feel they have the right to make the call for everyone that it doesn't belong?
If you know the person who removed the equipment, please encourage them to at the very least return the equipment, and ideally to open up a dialog with Perry if they have concerns about it. (style? safety? ???)
I'd like to share Perry's optimism that it could be an uninformed opportunist, but I can't.
Kris
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Probably a gondola hater too
I'd like to see them steal that hardware!
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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I'm not quite sure I follow you Jim. You can walk to the base of The Ultimate Everything across Vulcan's Artery with your dog, but I'm not sure why you'd want to. ;)
Whatever opinions people have regarding motives for creating or disagreeing with a route, is fine and dandy. We're a richer community for having diverse perspectives. Taking it upon one's self to be the route police and erase someone's effort, as well as steal the equipment they have donated to the community at large is selfish and cowardly.
Everyone is entitled to their opinion, but please have the courtesy to bring your's to the table. Many hours and dollars have gone into the creation of each route we share, so show some decency and respect to those who put in the work.
I've yet to do this route (I was with Perry when we discovered the dastardly deed), so my perspective is still incomplete. I'd love to hear what others have thought of the creation. Please share your experiences!
K
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Who's in Vancouver, and free for lunch on Friday somewhere in Kits, with a distinguished visiting Supertovian? Send me PM.
It's no secret that I agree with Kris. First, that matters like this need to be settled within our community, if possible. Second, that if a climber really believes something is a matter of principle that needs to be acted on, then for the same reason she/he should have the courage to tell people what she/he has done, and why. Bearing in mind that those indulging in doing what are likely to be controversial or dumb things should tell people before doing them, and possibly making a mess. Of which there are more than a few at Squamish.
Royal Robbins stood up for his principles - publicly. He made no secret that he was going to 'erase' the bolts etc on the Wall of the Early Morning Light, because what he thought the route was about was against his principles. He was also man enough to admit that maybe it wasn't such a good idea after all. In both cases quite publicly.
I've always tried to be forthright about my views and actions in relation to climbing, not that it necessarily wins friends. If you can't be honest with others about what and how you climb, how can you be honest with yourself? I'm far from the world's ....est climber, but I try hard to be honest with myself and the community. What's the point otherwise?
It's hard to believe in these days of climbers who for the most part are materially wealthy and hardly lack for equipment, that someone would bother stealing a few weathered quickdraws in such a location, just for the sake of having them.
A sign at the start of the traverse on the Lost Coz doesn't seem likely to deter thieves. Luckily, non-climbers seem unlikely to figure out how to get there. (Unlike the "pools" at the top of Shannon Falls, which seem to be luring more and more unwary tourists. Vernal Falls redux?) So I wouldn't be keen on a plaque there - there seem more than enough already on the Chief. Likewise rungs, just because rungs plus a fixed rope might lure people who shouldn't be there.
Anyway, I'm signed up to climb a tree on Diedre or something in the near future, but would be happy to help out Perry with his project. I didn't know Scott Cosgrove, but have always been intrigued by the Vulcan's Artery and the possibility of an airy traverse there. A unique adventure.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2018 - 09:57pm PT
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Before Kakwa had his debilitating tangle with the bruin, I used to take great delight in walking him up the Coz Way to start of the upper buttress.
Kind of blew peoples minds to bump into some old guy walking his dog in the middle of their multi pitch adventure.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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OK, but Kakwa is smarter than some (many?) tourists, and had you to guide him.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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there is a via feratta in telluride with rungs and fixed cable. about 3/4 of a mile into a mile and a half adventure there is a park bench and a memorial plac bolted to the wall. I thought it was pretty cool. apparently the bench is a good place to do shrooms and listen to the concerts down in the vallly.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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I mentioned the plaque because there is one in Ghost River on a run out multi pitch climb that Dave Cheesmond was working on when he went to Mt Logan.
His friends Brian and Choc finished it after it was obvious that Dave wasn't coming back. Dave's widow suggest the route name Creamed Cheese and a memorial plaque was fixed on the 4th pitch.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2018 - 09:07am PT
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Lots of good perspectives.
I hope we don't have to make to too big a deal out of a couple people's behaviour.
They didn't chop the bolts so it's just a matter of installing new hangers, links and some rope.
Maybe a good dose of LocTite will help.
I think it's important to point out that the Coz Way is not a via ferrata; there are no rungs or cables.
It was freed at 10b and the jury is very much out on whether putting a dozen rungs on a 8 km adventure hike is appropriate.
The point is that apart from the fixed ropes, the route was established within broader ethical "norms"..
If someone took my gear because they didn't agree with it being there, I'm not hearing this sentiment reflected by those chiming in.
I think the Coz Way is a unique outing worthy of Scott's memory and the work required.
I'll be listening very carefully to my community's advice as to how to best approach this project and hope to complete the route over the next year.
Can't emphasize enough that there's a lot loose rock to clean up and that anyone traversing the upper route puts anyone along the base of the Grand from Jingus the Cat to Seasoned in the Sun at great peril.
Thanks again for all your thoughts.
PB
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Ditto on the loose rock. The first time I went I did know what it was like. The second time I felt I had good enough reason, and the time of year and week made people below less likely, but I would not go back until my feeling of having a good reason does not come up against the chance of hurting people by rockfall. The rock is soft and there are not the usual small cracks to tell you what might give. Stuff under your foot that looked okay can suddenly go.
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Real bummer. Perhaps posting this into a platform with more folks could prove fruitful? Say, the squamish climbing fb group?
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2018 - 03:11pm PT
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BJ,
Before the gear was stolen, all you needed was a harness and two lanyards.
I'll do my best to tastefully restore it to that state.
As mentioned already, the Coz Way is about being able to do a rising hike across most of the face of the Chief then link all four summits from South to North and finish where you started some 8-10 km later.
The 10 meter "Occlusion" is just a an entertaining little challenge in a much bigger adventure.
PB
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