TR: Montuckans in Moab

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TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 29, 2006 - 01:28pm PT
It's a quarter till 4am and Pat's dead asleep next to me. I'm just south of SLC and he hardly notices as I exit and pull into our supermarket bivy. I can only manage to sleep for about an hour though; I’m too psyched and uncomfortable to get any real rest.

I’m back on the road and catching a beautiful sunrise outside of Green River when Pat finally comes too, he takes over and before I knew it, we were in the Castle Valley wash drinking coffee with some of the other Montuckans who had already fled south.

We quickly decided that the best thing for the head (besides the obvious) was to do a warm-up day in the Fishers…everything feels much more solid after that…


Entry Fee


Impish on Dock Rock


After that I’m not too sure what happened…the days that followed are a bit blurry…



The hype and crowds were said to be residing at the Creek, so we decided to stay away. Long Canyon seemed to be a better option.









Then a nice day on the Lighthouse Tower…







Liz on P1 of Northeastern Route



Psyched we talked Robin into gunning P2







On Thanksgiving the plan was to do the Fine Jade. Unfortunately once we crested the saddle we knew that the winds would be an issue. So we went on to check out the first pitches of ‘Where Have the Wild Things Gone’ and ‘Excommunication’. Cool stuff. Pics to come once acquired…

Some more random shots…






Another day on the Lighthouse…


Looking at P2 of Poseidon Adventure. Pat had been wanting for us to do this one for awhile now. Rightfully so; one of the coolest pitches I've ever done.

All smiles on this thing....







As we were hanging out we also got to see our buddies Apple and Palister on Infrared.




Next thing I knew I was in Denny's in SLC at 4:30am and the manager tells us as a waitress walks by, "I've been trying to tap that for 10 years..."

WTF? Thanks for the info friend.

Man we must look greasy...



Cheers,

Tom
yo

climber
The Eye of the Snail
Nov 29, 2006 - 01:43pm PT
Hartouni told me to post on this thread.
spyork

Social climber
Land of Green Stretchy People
Nov 29, 2006 - 01:50pm PT
Wow, I'm jealous. And great pics. Thanks for sharing your adventure.

Steve
handsome B

Gym climber
SL,UT
Nov 29, 2006 - 02:03pm PT
Great pics! How sketchy are the lighthouse tower routes?
Mimi

climber
Nov 29, 2006 - 03:34pm PT
Thanks for the eye candy! An obvious good time in the desert.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2006 - 03:39pm PT
How sketchy are the lighthouse tower routes?

The Northeastern Route was a bit loose, not sure how much action it sees.

Poseidon Adventure is solid.

They share the same upper pitches

The last 15 foot pitch has no top anchors so you have to reverse it. The brother said it was super easy. According to him it's "5.concrete, there is no way you're gonna fall of that thing..."

I took his word for it...heh

Ouch!

climber
Nov 29, 2006 - 04:14pm PT
Really great pictures.
Hangerlessbolt

Trad climber
Portland, OR
Nov 29, 2006 - 04:17pm PT
Gneiss!
deuce4

Big Wall climber
the Southwest
Nov 29, 2006 - 04:28pm PT
Looked like some nice bouldering. Where was that?
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2006 - 04:41pm PT
Thanks all.

as for the bouldering:

The roadside shots are the Buffalo Chip Boulder.

The other one is near Parriot Mesa....

Cheers,

Tom
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
Nov 29, 2006 - 05:16pm PT
Great shots, good times, "zonecrew". The last two days in the Big Sky state have been minus 10 degrees f, but that just gives bouldering in the 'lith that arctic alpine feel that makes ya tuff. See y'all when you get home--watch the roads for ice, not the ice from the roads.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Nov 29, 2006 - 06:01pm PT
Looks like you did a good job avoiding crowded famous routes. Not even on Maverick -- what are those Long Canyon lines?
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Nov 29, 2006 - 06:08pm PT
Hey TKingsbury,
Did I see you guys at the Cat Wall on Saturday? Whatever, can I poach that picture of Liz in out helmet for our website? It looks like she's having fun! Shoot me an email from the contact link on the trango website.
Thx,
Mal
stich

Trad climber
Denver, Colorado
Nov 29, 2006 - 06:12pm PT
So that's some Moab climbing? Very cool! And it's great to see another Thanksgiving TR.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2006 - 11:35am PT
Not even on Maverick -- what are those Long Canyon lines?


We did 3 days in Long, one day being a Maverick *but* we ended up checking out the stuff further upcanyon beyond what is normally considered Mavrick. We also hit up the alcove that has Texas Two-Step and others I can't remember...

As for the other ones. One is Program Director on the Deadman's buttress, and the other is an unknown route just upcanyon from PD.

We also checked out the North Spur area aswell. Anyone here ever do 'Butt Pygmies on a Landscape'? That thing stands out in my mind....outstanding...


Hey Mal - check your email...



Cheers,

Tom

EDIT:

I'll get some more photos of the Long Canyon rounded up soon....
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Nov 30, 2006 - 11:38am PT
Coooooooool
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2006 - 05:30pm PT
-----Update



I snagged a few more photos from my buddy Dom...but sill missing pics from two other sources....



Northeast Route


Hot Toddy


Butt Pygmies on a Landscape


alone in Long Canyon


More smiles on Poseidon Adventure


Cheers,

Tom





TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2006 - 04:34pm PT
Kartch

climber
belgrade, mt
Dec 20, 2006 - 05:10pm PT
gettin psyched yo! ! !
Crag Q

Trad climber
Louisville, Colorado
Dec 20, 2006 - 05:51pm PT
Great pictures!
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