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The Wolf
Trad climber
Martinez, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 30, 2016 - 09:01am PT
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Jeff and Dave are recording from the same place for the first time. The guys talk talk F1 and LeMans racing. Jeff meets a girl in Yosemite who’s laying in the dirt and dreaming of a man with a Sprinter van Dave’s dad meets the Pope in a Brush with Fame. The guys answer a letter from a listener in Film Term of the Day.
This episode’s guest is Richard Jensen. Richard along with Mark Smith did the First Ascent of the controversial El Capitan climbing route Wings of Steel. On this the 5th anniversary of the 2nd Ascent Richard talks about what he would do differently now and how the film Assault on El Capitan changed the perception of the route. Never shying away from controversy Richard talks about his longstanding feud with El Cap climber and critic Steve Grossman and how he deals with continued criticism of his climbing style.
http://www.accidentalproductions.net/2016/06/29/rants-raves-richard-jensen/
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Jun 30, 2016 - 09:09am PT
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I tried
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jun 30, 2016 - 09:10am PT
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^and for that, I know you are bolder than I!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 30, 2016 - 10:31am PT
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ABSOLUTELY SUPERB. Thanks Jeff!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 30, 2016 - 11:05am PT
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Very cool!
John
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Jun 30, 2016 - 12:43pm PT
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It was a pleasure, Jeff. You and Dave make a great team and are very capable interviewers.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Jun 30, 2016 - 01:09pm PT
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Really glad no minorities got in the way of this interview. Phew!
Really glad it was a troll-free zone. Phew!
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Climbnrok
Trad climber
LA
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Jun 30, 2016 - 08:30pm PT
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The "Accidental Podcast" link/button on your site is a little broken. It tries to drop down a list of the episodes on mouse over, but the list goes off the screen. When you try to scroll down the front window comes up over the episode list. Clicking the link doesn't take you to a list of episodes either. Only way to see them all is to make the page so small you can't read it.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Jun 30, 2016 - 08:34pm PT
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Jeff I really think it was one of your best episodes.
Plaid
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Jun 30, 2016 - 09:31pm PT
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Thanks. I now know a lot more about madbolter and Formula 1 racing.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Jun 30, 2016 - 10:29pm PT
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So after my flip response this morning which I was basically just joking I took the time this evening to give it a listen and it was excellent after I skipped forward to the actual interview of Richard.
He is a very smart interesting guy
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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What really made my hands sweat was when Richard was philosophizing about aid placements, and specifically whether a specific placement would hold, or not, and the consequences of it failing. What Richard describes so well is the mental game required in REALLY HARD aid climbing, and if you are climbing his routes like Wings of Steel and especially the first pitch of Ring of Fire [led by Mark], these are the questions you must ask yourself.
Which explains why I don't climb Richard's routes. Not only are they too hard for me, but the answers to the questions are too terrifying! I like to know that the piece I am standing on is actually going to hold me!
Speaking of questions...
Jeff: "So Richard ... how do you want to be remembered?"
Richard: "Um .... "
Pete: "Let me answer this one!"
The wall of text.The wall of text. The wall of text. The wall of text. The wall of text.The wall of text. The wall of text. The wall of text. The wall of text.The wall of text. The wall of text. The wall of text. The wall of text.The wall of text. The wall of text. The wall of text. The wall of text.The wall of text. The wall of text. The wall of text. The wall of text.The wall of text. The wall of text. The wall of text. The wall of text.The wall of text. The wall of text. The wall of text. The wall of text.The wall of text. The wall of text. The wall of text.
Love you, Richard.
Great episode, Jeff.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Thanks, Pete. Love ya too, brother.
Except for the fact that you saw right through my smoke-screen. Okay, I'll come clean. Forget climbing. I want to be remembered as the most bad-ass poster at the taco stand!
There, I said it. Pete, you forced my hand. Sooo... prepare for new waves of WOT like you've never seen before. YOUR fault, Pete. I was trying to be subtle, but you've laid me bare, and now the results are on you.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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the great WOT controversy of 2016
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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MB, the main reason I respect you is that you wear yer WOT on yer sleeve.
Oh, and that you have a sense of humour, even at yer expense.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Thank you, Reilly.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Just watched "Assault on El Capitan". Steve Grossman is really hung on this thing. Let it go. And Ammon and Kait are heros.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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OK, Richard .... answer this age old question for us:
"WHY do you climb?"
Please be brief. You know, under 10,000 words.
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dikhed
climber
State of fugue and disbelief
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You've thrown down a few WOT's your self
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The Wolf
Trad climber
Martinez, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2016 - 10:13pm PT
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bump
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Please be brief. You know, under 10,000 words.
LOL
Okay, Pete:
LISTEN to the podcast. THERE I answer your QUESTION. ;-)
I am seriously curious, my friend. Why do you climb?
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dikhed
climber
State of fugue and disbelief
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for the quickening
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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The question for people on ST should be, do you STILL climb and...how often?
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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The question for people on ST should be, do you STILL climb and...how often?
What does that have to do with anything on a thread like this?
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teejaybee
Trad climber
Australia
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Really enjoyed this podcast, especially the little look into why Richard climbs. Thanks. Might have to try and get a copy of the book. I watched Assault on El Cap a while ago when it was on YouTube but after the podcast I bought a copy and watched it again. Did they interview Ammon after Steve Grossman? Because I got the impression that Steve thought what Ammon found up there confirmed all his thoughts / attacks but it was quite the opposite, at least how I interpreted all that Ammon said...
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The Wolf
Trad climber
Martinez, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2016 - 05:30pm PT
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Thank you very much for the kind words about the podcast. I really appreciate your support and your finding the film outside of Youtube. That version was a bootleg.
All Ammon's interviews were completed before we talked with Steve. Bonus footage has more extensive interviews.
Happy to answer any questions around the film.
Jeff
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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So did mr. Grossman ever change his tune?
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The Wolf
Trad climber
Martinez, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2016 - 09:04am PT
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Steve has not changed his opinions to date as far as I know. He continues to have issues with the FA and the tatics used. I hope to have Steve on the podcast soon. He is passionate about climbing and I like and respect him. LIke him or not his contribution to our film was tremendous.
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