When Is Chalk Worse Than No Chalk?

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Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Apr 26, 2016 - 10:56pm PT
It'll cost you a rolled up c note!

Is your send worth it?

If it did everything they claim it does, I'd buy a 55 gal. drum of it.

Curt
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Apr 26, 2016 - 11:15pm PT
Could just be that coming up everything was an FA and that the 'puzzle factor' of figuring out where the routes even were was half the challenge has biased me against chalk use (aside from the visual blight), but sh#t like this is such mindless boring climbing-by-the-dots such that I would never bother with such tainted/painted lines regardless of how good they were otherwise.


overwatch

climber
Arizona
Apr 27, 2016 - 07:04am PT
Is that you, Healye? nice send, what kind of chalk do you use?
Mark Force

Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
Apr 27, 2016 - 08:40am PT
When you look at pictures like those above, do you see the chalk as aesthetically pleasing or displeasing?

I am curious to hear the responses - truthful responses - I can make up the flippant ones myself.

Also, do you like to climb "paint by the numbers" or do you prefer to discover sequences yourself?

Does the aesthetic impact of chalk translate to a possible access issue in some cases?

Chalk does work to make climbing easier (I've used my share). These questions aren't about that question.

Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Apr 27, 2016 - 08:58am PT
Mark, hello,
only those who have been climbing since before 79? or so
would have any reference to know what it is to see a climb without any white powder.
(Well? Not REALLY, But as far as todays white powder, beta addicted climbers go )

Is a #5 Big Dude In your wish list?
I read that your hoard is so big and with changes a foot you are side lined from collecting. . .
Unless it's Doltthen there this with may have come to me unfairly & of all the trinkets the one that means the most to me that was given to me By Tor,
under the front desk of the Mountain House, where Fritz & Hans's storage lockers were in 1980,











Hmmm ? well no but i like the climber & the pic

Mark Force

Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
Apr 27, 2016 - 11:40am PT
Gnome, Though many think I'm a dolt, I've never been into Dolt.

I'll take that gully ice, though! Looks fat and squeaky!
jgill

Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
Apr 27, 2016 - 09:27pm PT
When you look at pictures like those above, do you see the chalk as aesthetically pleasing or displeasing?


And how does this reflect the biases of those who deny AGW?

Under President Trump those aliens who wish not to be deported will have the option of cleaning chalk residue off climbing routes. Without a rope.


Mark Force

Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
Apr 27, 2016 - 09:31pm PT
Huh?
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Apr 27, 2016 - 11:08pm PT
When you look at pictures like those above, do you see the chalk as aesthetically pleasing or displeasing?

I think it is awful, really awful.


Also, do you like to climb "paint by the numbers" or do you prefer to discover sequences yourself?

I'd much rather discover sequences myself. I'd also really rather not have to filter out all the noise from sequences either I can't use or perhaps nobody can use.

Does the aesthetic impact of chalk translate to a possible access issue in some cases?

I think so (Cave Rock?) There have certainly been complaints from non-climbers in various locales; I don't know how much weight they carry with land managers.

drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Apr 27, 2016 - 11:20pm PT
RGold-
"Filtering out the noise"...well put...on certain rock types it can be confusing.
Crimp ladders like the picture of the Red, not so much for me.

Really, the only thing that denotes a route there, or at least on that wall, are the lines of chalk. Not like they follow natural lines. If you looked up at that wall without the bolts or chalk would you even see a route?

Does it bother me? No. The chalk simply says "it goes".

The other photo is taken from above so of course the visual is amplified.

Edit: when I say "you" I don't mean you RGold.
I should say "we".

#frictionlabs 😜

Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Apr 28, 2016 - 04:03am PT
jgill,
In the incredibly inefficient use of breathing while stopping ,some times mid crux, to chalk up,
In a climber who espouses that view, can be challenged, (effectively, IMHO,)
as to the hypocrisy in his or her position. :(
[ gasses expelled & dust particles shown to be as an example of how gasses act, the coating effect that leads to heat retention]
I think?. . .



Also
I think
Global Warming is real, there are many causes. not to include mans plume of discharged gasses would be like denying the stench included in that thick smog.

Sorry for the thread drift as to the pollution/ mans existence issue,
&
To add some color to this thread drift
Obvious other cause of global warming,
Described as "fire at Sam's point Cragswood NY? . .
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Apr 28, 2016 - 05:24am PT
Well, one of life's satisfactions is reading John Gill shading Donald Trump. The internet is definitely good for some things!

Back in the day, chalk use was severely monitored at Whipp's Ledges (Hinckley) OH., which is mostly vertical sandstone, sometimes overhanging. The OH. humidity converted chalked holds into greasy snot, so if you didn't brush off your chalk on the way down, you could expect some verbal harassing. An important plus is that the rock stayed looking nice. I'm not sure if this excellent tradition has persevered over time. I hope so.
overwatch

climber
Arizona
Apr 28, 2016 - 06:20am PT
The OH? Oh, man
Condorman

Trad climber
Garden Grove, CA
Apr 28, 2016 - 05:18pm PT
Just cause you see chalk doesn't mean that person was on route!

Ever do Serpentine on the Wailing Wall at Suicide? It's called that for a reason. You'll be at one bolt, and the next one is on an angle. There's no "straight" line there, so you're either going up and over, or over and up. There's chalk both ways. Doesn't mean that they're both right!
Condorman

Trad climber
Garden Grove, CA
Apr 28, 2016 - 05:20pm PT
@Gnomeoffthediabase.

Yes Global warming is real. It started about 75 million years ago and ended our last ice age.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Apr 28, 2016 - 06:34pm PT
Yer all highly addicted to it on multiple levels...
Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Apr 28, 2016 - 07:59pm PT
Yer all highly addicted to it on multiple levels...

I'm addicted to oxygen too. I could try going without, but I'd prefer not to run the experiment.

Curt
jgill

Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
Apr 28, 2016 - 08:03pm PT
Yes, the use of chalk occupies many philosophical levels. Good thesis material.
hubcap

climber
loveland co
Apr 30, 2016 - 04:00pm PT
When you are standing at the bottom or looking down or across at a route. When you are up there being scared shitless of course you don't care. Don't worry, someday all the humans will be gone and the wind and rain will wash it all away!
jgill

Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
Apr 30, 2016 - 04:57pm PT
Forgive me a chuckle here, but 60 years ago during the introduction of chalk there were a few dissenters advancing the same arguments: "not sporting" or "ugly residues" or etc. Good debatable points, and back then there was no association with other elements of what would evolve as political correctness.

I'm just mucho aged and finding humor in the "serious" aspects of life.

;>)
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