It takes balls to use nuts...

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Messages 61 - 80 of total 450 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 20, 2006 - 06:37pm PT
Healyje,
you appear to be ignoring the X factor they faced.
We can repeat the routes with the same gear, but we KNOW they go!

Anyway John is more forthcoming on some climbing topics than others.

And don't give Malcolm any more new gear ideas until we suss out the latest.
At that point he can 'spline more to you.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Nov 20, 2006 - 06:46pm PT
Ron, yep, you can't recreate the X pucker, but a kid getting on it sans cams would probably come close to making up the difference given they are so used to having them at their disposal.

Not sure what you're talking about with Malcolm. I've been after him for some time to redesign the current generation of ball nuts to restore some of the many nuanced features of the Lowe-Byrne and previous generations, but it sounds like it's just too damn much hassle for such a minimal return. Might be different if more folks bought them. Hard to imagine anyone would rather use one of those 'microcams' when they could be using a ball nut.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 20, 2006 - 06:50pm PT
Well I prefer Rock-n-rollers for sandstone, but I've already belabored Malcolm with a project so wait yer turn! lol
Brick

Social climber
SF, CA
Nov 20, 2006 - 07:12pm PT
Taking inspiration from others and marketing it as your own is a technique that some (well, at least one) of the well-known big wall equipment manufacturers amongst us have employed. The aggrieved wears a gray hat.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Nov 20, 2006 - 09:11pm PT
"merely the goal to strive for."
-pretty much describes my style to this day. A starting point, anyway

Thanks for the elucidation, John, I always thought jingus things, and their inspiration was steve's thing.
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Nov 20, 2006 - 09:30pm PT
Deuce,
I didn't now that history between you and Steve. Sorry to hear it and sorry for any pain that my part in it caused. I remember talking to you and the Bird over some scotch one night in SLC and you mentioned the Monkey-Paw idea. We had already proto'ed a double-sided BallNut (think inside-out monkey-paw) that will stick in a 35 degree flare. I still carry that thing on my rack on occasion. I'll toss up a photo if I can find the damn thing. Like a lot of super-tricky aid stuff, it's tricky, unpredictable and x-rated only. But the damn thing works in some amazing places. Jello, I think I might have placed it on the first pitch of New Music. Is your memory any better than mine?
Mal
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Nov 20, 2006 - 09:54pm PT
Okay, found the DoubleBall and shot some photos. Sorry about the soft focus but it's all I could do at the moment.

So here's what the head looks like:


Look at the flare it will go into:


And look at how it can handle a bombay/flare:


Here's the instability thing. Sometimes it can simply rotate into a secondary equilibrium position which, often, isnt too stable:


Now it's time to open up the Knob Creek.
Mal
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2006 - 10:03pm PT
Are those your fingers, Mal? Looks like you've been cheatin' and actually doing some climbing.

We did New Music in 1986, before we worked on ball nuts. Have to say you did a fine job on that first pitch, though.

Cheers,
J-Lowe
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 20, 2006 - 10:13pm PT
If I was Ouch I know what I'd do with that first photo.
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Nov 20, 2006 - 10:15pm PT
Jello, that was quite the route, wasn't it? Good job spotting it.

Hands are rough because we've been doing some concrete work around the house:


and in my spare time I installed a wood stove:

Just wish it would get cold...

Headed off to Moab and Flagstaff for some climbing over the next week. Then to Chatanooga for the Triple Crown so I'll be climbing a bit...
Mal

Edited to mention that that's not my minivan in the concrete photos!
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Nov 20, 2006 - 10:38pm PT
Malcolm,

Cool but that 'secondary equilibrium' is a pretty unhappy pic. I think I'd like John's pet Monkey a bit more than having my balls dangling out there like that...
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Nov 20, 2006 - 10:45pm PT
healyje, the thing that's weird about the "secondary equilibrium" is that I've never had it happen in the field. I can make it happen easily in my fingers but once the unit is set, it seems to stay pretty well. Go figure.
Mal
WBraun

climber
Nov 20, 2006 - 10:48pm PT
Malcolm

What kind of stove is that? (Manufacturer?) It looks cool.
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Nov 20, 2006 - 11:05pm PT
Werner,
It's a Rais Bando. http://www.rais.com It's covered with slabs of soapstone to hold the heat. I fired it up three hours ago with some kindling and 3 stick of wood. It's still throwing off lots of heat. I love it. No surprise but it wasn't cheap...
Mal
WBraun

climber
Nov 20, 2006 - 11:11pm PT
Malcolm, thank you

Edit: Sh#t man, those things cost more than I've ever spent on a car. Yikes, but they sure are nice.
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Nov 20, 2006 - 11:21pm PT
Werner, what was this thread about, anyway?
Mal
WBraun

climber
Nov 20, 2006 - 11:27pm PT
Some ball nuts that Jeff was rolling around somewhere and then Middendorf got into the fray along with Piton, and then some guy Mal got cold and fired up his stove and then Werner as usual did his thread drift off somewhere and only god knows why ....... etc etc.

You know how this sh#t plays out ......
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Nov 20, 2006 - 11:29pm PT
It's kind of like sitting around the campfire at C4 or Indian Creek. You just never know where the conversation will go...

I love it.
Mal
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 20, 2006 - 11:32pm PT
Malcolm's been awful friendly since the election...
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Nov 20, 2006 - 11:35pm PT
Back off man!
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