It takes balls to use nuts...

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 15, 2009 - 01:01pm PT
Nothing at all extraordinary about that Foxhead, Stephane. They are all like that in design. The core head fits neatly into the casting and, in this case, has loosened up enough that it isn't staying put. Bill is probably going to be a bit baffled at your question.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 5, 2009 - 10:36am PT
Bump on a wire!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 8, 2009 - 08:13pm PT
Even Ed Leeper got into zee groove!

Climbing June 75.

Climbing August 76.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Mar 8, 2009 - 08:27pm PT
That half page ad is great!

Ed forgot to mention that it is also useful for eating antipasto.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 8, 2009 - 09:08pm PT
Anyone actually in possession of one of those...?
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
Mar 9, 2009 - 01:40pm PT
Yes, healyje... The Nuts Museum!
But I had not got these interesting ads.
Thank you Steve Grossman for posting them!

Stephane
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 12, 2009 - 05:23am PT
Stephane, I know you have one. I meant - you know - a 'normal' person out and about 'in the wild' so to speak.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 13, 2009 - 10:35am PT
So many nuts, so little time....LOL
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 15, 2009 - 12:19am PT
Joe just wants to take a lead fall on one!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 5, 2009 - 02:40pm PT
Since this has been an interesting parallel history thread.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=784874
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 12, 2009 - 01:37pm PT
Another very early nut article by John Armitage from Summit September 1967.




Ain't no flatlander

climber
Apr 22, 2009 - 07:14pm PT
Bump for Earth Day.

My Dad and I made nuts in his shop back in the mid 70s. We copied the Gendarme Nuts but made them half-sizes of the Seneca originals. And also made some mini-Peckers by knurling stainless steel rod stock. We wired them and I climbed with them for a couple of years. Still have a couple in the collection.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Apr 22, 2009 - 07:20pm PT
Making mini peckers by knurling stainless steel rods?

If you are gay I think you have it backwards. (Not that there's anything wrong with it.)
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 22, 2009 - 10:42pm PT
Whether you are gay or not...how about some pictures?!? Of the handmade goodies, that is.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Apr 22, 2009 - 10:58pm PT
One of those smallest wired pecks dubiously thrutched into place end-to-end at the very last shaking second saved my life in Eldo back in the day. Still ugly just thinking about it.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Dec 3, 2009 - 09:21pm PT
Just recently scored two sets of Leeper AntiPitons and sent one set to Marty and the other to Chicken Skinner. Stephane already had them so now all three collections have a set.
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Chillin' in the City of Trees
Dec 3, 2009 - 11:27pm PT
Those things are pretty cool. That Leeper was always thinking, huh?

Nuts!
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Dec 3, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
Healyj,

I received them the other day. Thank you.

Ken
bmacd

Trad climber
British Columbia
Dec 3, 2009 - 11:37pm PT
Slesse North Rib ...

I wonder if Jello would humour us Southwestern BC locals with more photos or a trip report. That first image in this thread is spectacular ! I doubt the route gets very much traffic.

thanks
Bruce
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2009 - 01:53am PT
Bruce, by 1972 we had pretty much switched to nuts as the best way to climb, with maybe a thin fixed piton where necessary. I remember Rob and I expected to find greater difficulty on the climb, but we both enjoyed the classic alpine cruise. I used to study Fred Becky's trip reports in the AAJ. Often there was an equal or sometimes even brighter gem exposed in the wake of his passing. The north rib, or Rob's Rib as I called it, was one of those gems.

-Jello
Messages 261 - 280 of total 463 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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