"Valley Walls: A Memoir of Climbing ..." by Glen Denny

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Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - May 11, 2016 - 08:50pm PT
Valley Walls: A Memoir of Climbing and Living in Yosemite by Glen Denny - just came out on May 10.

Excerpt story of the first ascent of The Rostrum - North Face with Warren Harding in a heat wave:
http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/valley-walls-a-memoir-of-climbing-and-living-in-yosemite-glen-denny

Available through Amazon, IndieBound, Barnes & Noble, or Yosemite Conservancy.
http://www.amazon.com/Valley-Walls-Memoir-Climbing-Yosemite/dp/1930238630?ie=UTF8

From the Inside Flap

Before the first free ascent of the Dawn Wall on El Capitan captivated the world, a rag-tag group of innovators built the sport of modern American rock climbing from a makeshift home base in Yosemite’s Camp 4. Photographer Glen Denny was a key figure in that Golden Age of climbing, capturing pioneering feats on camera while tackling challenging ascents himself. Now, in prose both exhilarating and poignant, he gives us true tales of colorful characters and a legendary locale, of brotherhood and sky-high quests, and of living cheap and dodging park rangers.

Denny learned the game with the mythic Warren Harding, hauled water in glass gallon jugs up the east face of Washington Column, dangled overnight on El Capitan’s Dihedral Wall in a lightning storm, and felt “rock that had not been touched since it emerged from the ice a million years ago, clean and white.”

A young man comes of age in these pages, at the dawn of a new era.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
May 11, 2016 - 09:00pm PT
Wow, looks like it would be a good read!
BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
May 11, 2016 - 09:08pm PT
And we finally get to find out how Desert Frank got the knickname 'Desert Frank!' Warren Harding gave him the name, but why?
BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
May 11, 2016 - 09:12pm PT
Also, what I think makes this book even more interesting is that Glen isn't looking back 50+ years and trying to remember what happened. He wrote many of these stories right after they occurred so the details were still fresh.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
May 12, 2016 - 06:22am PT
I'm really thirsty now.
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
May 12, 2016 - 06:54am PT
Ordering today. I met Glen only once, at an early showing of "El Capitan", years ago. Great guy.
BigB

Trad climber
Red Rock
May 12, 2016 - 07:54am PT
Just ordered. Can't wait to read it!
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
May 12, 2016 - 08:08am PT
Thanks for the post.
Looking forward to a good read.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
May 12, 2016 - 08:08am PT
Thanks for the heads up Clint. Can't wait to read it.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
May 12, 2016 - 08:40am PT
Thanks, Clint. I had the good fortune to sit at a table with Glen Denny at an Access Fund dinner in Berkeley some years ago, and hear some stories from him. What an nice man!
Prod

Trad climber
May 12, 2016 - 10:38am PT
Just ordered mine...

Prod.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
May 12, 2016 - 11:03am PT
Glen's eloquence using black and white film should have no trouble transferring itself to the black and white of text.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
May 12, 2016 - 01:37pm PT
I just ordered my copy !
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
May 12, 2016 - 01:55pm PT
The sparks from those hammers. . .ignited it all.




Jan,
in the thread about the old Crews @ Jtree,
You mentioned - Hauser- & tying him off, leaving him hanging for a bit,. .
.What "Hauser" was that ? (did his 1st name begin with D? )
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
May 12, 2016 - 01:58pm PT
Looking forward to this, tfpu Clint
BooDawg

Social climber
Butterfly Town
May 12, 2016 - 02:17pm PT
Glen is certainly one of the "Un-sung" heroes of Yosemite's "Golden Age." I have thought, for many years, that a book about his presence during this special time would be definitely worth someone's effort (perhaps my own!). His humility is more than matched by his climbing achievements! I look forward to reading this book and seeing the climbing imagery that it most certainly contains.


BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
May 12, 2016 - 11:36pm PT
Check out an excerpt from the book here:

http://www.adventureprojects.net/blog/2109/book-excerpt-glen-dennys-valley-walls

edit: fixed my link. Thanks Clint!
Fuzzywuzzy

climber
suspendedhappynation
May 12, 2016 - 11:48pm PT
Ken, thanks, those are great shots!!!
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
May 13, 2016 - 07:25pm PT
Denny-one of my fav of the old crowd. Many a fun adventures together. Couple of blasts from the past.

F10

Trad climber
Bishop
May 13, 2016 - 08:17pm PT
Looks great. I remember seeing his photo display at Mountain Light Gallery here in Bishop.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2016 - 09:06pm PT
Clickable version of the link Bruce found (I changed https to http):
Chapter 14: NICE CATCH (Glen belays Royal Robbins on the testpiece 3rd pitch of the NA Wall - one of the first A5 leads in Yosemite)
http://www.adventureprojects.net/blog/2109/book-excerpt-glen-dennys-valley-walls
Osprey

climber
May 25, 2016 - 08:39am PT
I have been sitting on an early copy which I read over the weekend. Excellent book with many stories which I could relate to when reflecting on my first years in the Valley. Thank you Glen for putting this fine compilation together. As a history lover and a climber, I just cannot get enough of these storiesof climbing in the Valley during the fifties and sixties.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
May 25, 2016 - 09:07am PT
Hey, Clint, way to go! Great story of the NA Wall in that link.

Some blurbs which are included there from some pretty good critics--

Tommy Caldwell, professional rock climber:
"Glen Denny’s photos preserved and romanticized the era now referred to as the Golden Age of American rock climbing. His memoir, Valley Walls, brings those photos to life. A superbly written portrait of larger-than-life characters and go-for-broke ideals brings forth a sense of great envy for a time when purity came from the fact that we did not yet know if these walls could be climbed."

Beth Rodden, professional rock climber:
"Glen Denny was part of an age that is iconic to every generation of climbers and epitomizes Yosemite’s spirit and soul. His photographs and stories are as famous as the time, and now his book gives us an even deeper glimpse into such an incredible era."

Yvon Chouinard, co-founder, Patagonia, Inc.:
"Not many of us old guys are left who can remember the history of Yosemite climbing in the sixties. Thankfully, Glen Denny has put together these stories of the great days that were so important."
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
May 25, 2016 - 11:00am PT
"Looks excellent; thanks for the alert, Clint."

Same here, thanks for the heads up, just picked one up.
Roger Brown

climber
Oceano, California
May 25, 2016 - 07:07pm PT
Thanks Clint,
I ordered a copy today.
james Colborn

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
May 25, 2016 - 07:36pm PT
Just got my copy. Looking forward to the read.
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
May 26, 2016 - 05:55pm PT
Glen is someone I always liked, a humble guy with exceptional photographic insight and one of the real pioneers who was there amid it all. It meant all the world to me when he told me he very much liked my book Swaramandal, that it was unlike anything he had seen. That gave me hope, beyond hope, to keep trying. Glad to see this book come out.

Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
May 26, 2016 - 06:04pm PT
Rock climbing in America had several beginnings, in the East, for example, with souls such as Weissner, Kraus, and then McCarthy and Goldstone, and in the Tetons, with pioneers such as John Gill (who was doing the most difficult free climbs in the country in the late '50s there), and in Colorado, with Kor, Culp, and a few of us, and -- one of the most important places, of course -- in Yosemite in those pre-golden age years. Glen took part in both those early days and also the commonly-deemed golden age of the 1960's. Not many were so much a part, and such an effective part, of both those first years and later in the '60s. He is a rare American treasure.
Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)

Social climber
CO
May 26, 2016 - 10:18pm PT
Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)

Social climber
CO
May 26, 2016 - 10:20pm PT
LongAgo

Trad climber
May 26, 2016 - 11:04pm PT
Small plug following on Pat's comment about Swaramandal which he says Glen liked. I too liked this old book, out of print I guess. And reviewed it here:

http://www.tomhiggins.net/index.php/book-reviews/22-swaramandal?showall=&limitstart=

In part of my review:

"Swaramandal is a window into the fierce, pathetic, warm and comic ways of several personalities on the stage of American rock climbing. It is a portrait of Layton Kor, like a python, drawing out a lie from Ament and of Kor's later unexplainable conversion to the Jehovah Witnesses; of Royal Robbins and his kingly bent exposed in a letter to the young Ament, "Your ability to think logically is improving, though occasionally I spot a non-sequitur"; of Chuck Pratt writing elegant prose and wrestling with nightmares and beer bouts; of the rare laugh of Dave Rearick, his piercing intelligence and unique gift to Pat of a wooden, Osage-orange nut; of the strong silence clouding the person of John Gill, and the reserve barely veiling feverish passion for perfection; of Peter Haan's explosive tantrums; of my own sentimentality."

A very insightful and artful take on characters of the day.

Tom Higgins
LongAgo
BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
May 27, 2016 - 08:51am PT
Yup! Swaramandal is a great book. We did Nerve Wrack Point because of it. Pat was back in the Meadows a few years after the FA and we got a topo of the route. Not much pro except maybe to keep you from getting seriously hurt. Maybe.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
May 27, 2016 - 09:09am PT
I can't imagine anyone would think Swaramandel wasn't a great book.

As for Glen's latest, it's a really good buy for the price since it contains great stories and so many of his classic Yosemite photos for a mere $14.34 in paperback and $8.49 in Kindle.

Amazon has designated it as one of its Best Books of the Month.
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
May 27, 2016 - 11:06am PT
Ordered it from Amazon on May 11th. Got it 3 days later. Guido had emailed me the "Nice Catch" excerpt and the memories it revived moved me to action.
Great "vivid recollections"!
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
May 27, 2016 - 01:46pm PT
I've been slowly getting a page or two read, but I hope to have time this holiday weekend to plow through it.
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Jun 1, 2016 - 12:26pm PT
guido - the pictures you posted are so awesome!

We are excited to have Glen give a presentation to our Club in Santa Rosa on June 7. Please come if you can.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2821272/RIM-Club-June-7-Glen-Denny-Valley-Walls-and-El-Capitan
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Jun 6, 2016 - 08:46am PT
Just finished Glen's book. I enjoyed it greatly. Full disclosure: I was an "employee" of Mr Denny on his Nose film (jumared and carried loads) and for a long time have had a profound affection for his photographic art.

This book fleshes out the narrative. It puts the anthropology into the history behind these great climb. It reveals the pioneers of the "Golden Age" as humans who dealt with human needs, while fostering a love that risked their lives.

If you love rock climbing history, are entertained by stories of Yosemite, or appreciate the human condition, you will enjoy this book.
go1dens4

Trad climber
Melbourne, FL
Jun 12, 2016 - 09:02pm PT
Let me just say that anytime I have sat in Yosemite Lodge it was great to be able to view Glens photography, so I read this book on my plane ride this year and it was great! Go get a copy!!
ryankelly

Trad climber
Bhumi
Jun 12, 2016 - 09:06pm PT
published by the Yosemite Conservancy

purchase here...

http://www.yosemiteconservancystore.com/prod-235-1-848-34/valley-walls-a-memoir-of-climbing-living-in-yosemite.htm
BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
Jun 22, 2016 - 04:21pm PT
Enjoying the Glen Denny book immensely. The description of the 50' fall on his first ever roped climb was gripping!
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Sep 1, 2016 - 10:03am PT
I've reviewed Valley Walls for the Wall Street Journal.

Should be in the weekend edition this Saturday.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Sep 1, 2016 - 10:45am PT
Thanks for bumping this. I got his Yosemite in the Sixties book nine years ago, and I'm ordering Valley Walls now. I can't wait.

John
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Sep 2, 2016 - 01:33pm PT
So here's "Scaling the Walls of Yosemite," my reivew of Denny's book for the WSJ. It'll be in print in the weekend edition, on the racks tomorrow.

(It can be difficult evading the WSJ's digital paywall. Sometimes linking in from a google search helps.)
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
Sep 2, 2016 - 08:40pm PT
Thanks for the review Crouch...
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Sep 3, 2016 - 11:36am PT
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 3, 2016 - 12:36pm PT
Solid writing as usual Greg.

You do an excellent job of describing the rationale behind the risks taken which is always tricky.

It would have been worth mentioning that Glen was involved in the third major route on El Cap, the Dihedral Wall.
John Morton

climber
Sep 4, 2016 - 08:08pm PT
Did someone say Glen was taking notes in the old days? How else could he capture the momentary things so well, and the flavor of a conversation? My favorite piece in this book is that dialog between Beck and Roper, which is so right on it is spooky. It's as if he got it on tape.
thank you Glen, thank you
ironmtngirl

Social climber
el portal, ca
Sep 22, 2016 - 09:38am PT
It's Yosemite Facelift time!
Glen Denny and Hans Florine will be doing a book signing/meet and greet at the Yosemite Valley Visitor Center this Thursday, September 22nd at 3pm.

Books:
"Valley Walls"-Denny's Memoir of Climbing and Living in Yosemite
"On The Nose" -Florine's Lifelong Obsession with Yosemite's Most Iconic Climb

On Friday, Join Glen Denny on a walk through Camp 4 where he will share his iconic photos and talk about his memories of Yosemite in the 60s. An era of climbing that shall never be forgotten.

Friday, September 23rd
Meet at the Camp 4 Kiosk.
3:00pm - 5:00pm**

The first 20 people to arrive at Camp 4 and participate in the program will receive a FREE signed copy of Valley Walls!

Hope to see you there.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2016 - 01:41pm PT
John,
Did someone say Glen was taking notes in the old days? How else could he capture the momentary things so well, and the flavor of a conversation?
Yes, Bruce said this in the 4th post in this thread, and it's true....
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Sep 30, 2016 - 12:14am PT
Some details Denny uses are telling, to me, insofar as he had to have taken notes. He states titles being read on stormy days in the lodge, and not just one or two, but EVERYONE'S reading matter, including the biochemistry books used by Colliver at school.

It was great to have gotten wind of the appearance of Glen in C4 last week, and I received a free copy for being there in the first 20, though it took some artful dodging to do it. I owe BoobLocker for that.

And so does Lynnie, who ultimately received that one from me, as a gift, since I had purchased a copy when Glen was set up for signing by the Visitors Center. Hope you enjoy it, L.

Here, also, are some shots of the gathering at the kiosk, the portal to the temple of C4.

Demi-gods abounded, what can I say?
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Sep 17, 2017 - 08:19am PT
Bump.

This book's too good to ignore.

Why haven't you purchased a copy?

It's for your own good I'm asking, you laggardly schlub.


The food arrived and the talking stopped. The bun of the #24 was
warmly toasted. Inside, the fried wiener, onion, tomato, lettuce,
and thousand island dressing made a satisfying combination. The
cold weather had given me an appetite.

Beck poured some hot water into his cup from the teapot. He put some
ketchup into the cup and stirred it with a spoon, adding salt and
pepper and other condiments.

"Roper, are you going to eat your crackers?" he asked. Roper was
chewing and shook his head no. Beck crumbled the crackers into his
soup and drank it quickly, before the waitress came by again. Then
he repeated the performance with my crackers.

"Ask her for more crackers, Roper."

"Beck, are you that poor? Didn't you work during the winter?"

"Yes, but it's got to last a long time."

Eric was engaged in a long-term struggle with the Curry Company to
see how long he could stay in the Valley on how little money. Each
time he had to part with a coin, it was a small defeat. Any day
that saw the expenditure of a whole dollar was a disaster, either
a failure of strategic planning and tactical daring, or a breakdown
in discipline--a confession of weakness.

"You're too thin, Beck," Roper said. "You won't be strong enough
for the big climbs."

"I'll be all right. It isn't really necessary to eat a lot." He
paused, eying Roper's plate again. "Are you going to eat your pickle?"

Roper and I had coffee. Beck wiped his cup clean with a napkin,
removing the evidence, and asked for a second pot of hot water. When
it arrived, he pulled a used teabag out of his pocket and slipped it
into the pot.

Lois Rice next to JB.
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