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85
Mountain climber
Washington
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 9, 2016 - 12:40pm PT
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Comparisons are odious. The best place to climb is right where you are. At 19 I hitched to Yosemite from Colorado, having no idea of a pilgrimage and it was awesome. Two great friends met me and we climbed Royal Arches, which was a complete adventure to us, because we were shrouded in wonder.
In late winter 1987 at Smith Rock my partner and I clipped shiny new bolts in the empty Dihedrals as two jet fighters tore just overhead, freaking us out completely. We had no concept of 5.14, and we still don't. It was simply a brilliant day, and it was completely different than any other.
By accident, I ran into Ron Kauk in Paris on a spring day in 1990. He was articulate and personable and not in the least bit arrogant, and he suggested that I go to the forest outside of Fontainbleu and check out the bouldering. The buzz from the perfect friction of the grainy gray and green rock is still in my fingertips, along with the memory of forgiving white sand landings. For a century climbers have worked the endless problems of that place, and found incomparable solace there.
Last week I climbed with an old friend on "the world's hardest 5.9" and I was astonished by the memory of leading it as a teenager, of placing pro with furious resolve, and the climb is exactly as hard as it was then, and it still shocks my system with the same mixture of fear and exhilaration. It still wipes my thoughts clean, and leaves my mind dark and refreshed like an empty old-school chalkboard.
Sometimes just to look at a rock face puts me into a meditative trance. Do tennis players feel this way? Can they watch the light play on the surface of an empty court and feel suspended by its subtle graces? Do golfers draw detailed maps by hand to understand the subtleties of their favorite courses?
Apples and Oranges perhaps. Not important really. No need to compare.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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"the world's hardest 5.9" Reed's Direct p2?
I got to follow my son on it several weeks ago, and it was pretty cool!
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Wonderful musing.....
Thanks.
CC, climbing with your kids is a such a wonderful thing. Sometimes belaying them when they're leading can be tough....
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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We like the old sign at Stoney.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Randomness found me heading out to our local crag on Mother's Day after a rather depressing visit to dear old mom who is not long for this world. It was amusing to see this scene which made me think, "Look mom no hands!!!"
I left with a head full of thoughts about 3 generations, hers are almost all gone, mine are being picked off one by one and his are laughing in the sun.....
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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For some reason I think maybe Index might the the home of the robust 5.9...
Perhaps the memory/present/future balance plays a cool factor.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Charie D. We all had our awesome moments laughing in the sun....even today!
Cheers and thanks for the thoughts, lynnie.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Comparisons are not inherently odious. They are often the start of fun and stimulating conversation. They only become tedious when people have strong opinions about the rightness of their comparison vs yours.
Take your example of the hardest 5.9 in the world. Fun topic for sitting around the campfire - if nobody gets all serious about it.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Wonderful musing.....
Thanks.
CC, climbing with your kids is a such a wonderful thing. Sometimes belaying them when they're leading can be tough.... As can leading when they're belaying, and you hear them start bickering at each other.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Cheers, 85 - we have similar friends and experiences.
Your musings are a fresh breath into this forum.
 Erik Wolfe
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85
Mountain climber
Washington
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2016 - 07:16am PT
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More Randomness,
I'm getting to be a gentleman of a certain age, and no one let me in on the paradoxical goodness quotient; yes as one ages, the physical is diminished, but a strange wisdom seems to bloom in its place. A wry smile. Acceptance? Perhaps I'm not that big of a deal, and what the hell was I thinking when I wanted to be!
When I climb I forget all about me.
Everything else takes my place. My place? What the hell is that all about? This is our place. We have been crazy believers for quite some time.
Here's to Owen Glynne Jones, for climbing 5.8 in 1897. He was born 100 years before me and called himself the "Only Geniune Jones". He died in 1899 in Switzerland, going for it on some supermanky gear. There are old climbers, and there are bold climbers . . . but I'd like to think that the only difference between O.G. Jones and I is pure chance. I was plenty bold, and plain stupid sometimes, and the humbling was necessary.
Humility might just be the paradoxical goodness quotient. I watched a brash lean kid leading out on natural pro . . . and I experienced real empathy, strangely powerful compassion, and the kind of happiness that fathers might feel? He was a stranger to me, but the experience was not.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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May 14, 2016 - 08:06am PT
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Collecting good memories is a direct path to contentment.
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85
Mountain climber
Washington
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2016 - 08:13am PT
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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May 14, 2016 - 01:02pm PT
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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May 14, 2016 - 04:19pm PT
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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May 14, 2016 - 05:27pm PT
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85
Mountain climber
Washington
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2016 - 06:12pm PT
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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May 14, 2016 - 08:32pm PT
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Here we are by pure chance of a collision of random events, it's sooo underrated. We're all 1 in an infinity, pure joy for sure !!!
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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May 14, 2016 - 08:58pm PT
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There is a dark bird
Perhaps a raven
inside my head.
I open the cage sometimes
when I sleep;
I know this because
my mind's eye
sees the shadow of wings
on my pillow.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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May 14, 2016 - 11:36pm PT
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^^^i like that:)
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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May 15, 2016 - 02:41am PT
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hey there say, 85, thanks for sharing...
neat stuff...
everyone, too:
thanks for sharing... :)
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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May 15, 2016 - 08:26am PT
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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May 15, 2016 - 08:32am PT
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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May 15, 2016 - 08:45am PT
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Match you for colors, sweetheart?^^^
Beach Boys/random collaboration by MFM & Gnome Ofthe Diabase
he doesn't even know about it yet, it's that random
edit: Meh. Let's call it Jerry Garcia instead.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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May 15, 2016 - 08:55am PT
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 15, 2016 - 10:07am PT
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This book sears yer imagination!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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May 15, 2016 - 10:09am PT
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Cleverly juxtaposed, too.^^^
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Fossil climber
Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
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May 15, 2016 - 11:04am PT
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Nice reflections, 85. Do it some more.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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May 15, 2016 - 11:24am PT
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Well said, 85.
There is a nice traverse here.
If you fall you swim.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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May 15, 2016 - 11:34am PT
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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May 15, 2016 - 11:35am PT
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random light with a random Galapagos shark.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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May 15, 2016 - 12:54pm PT
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 15, 2016 - 12:55pm PT
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Viva Rocinante!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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May 15, 2016 - 12:56pm PT
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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May 15, 2016 - 02:39pm PT
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^^^You hombres look like you could do with some agua.NO TILTING!!
It's already leanin'.
Here's a good map you might use for a random tour of your own.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 15, 2016 - 04:16pm PT
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one cannot ignore Knuth in matters random... follow the link to an excerpt from what is probably the most inspired chapter written on the topic in the last 50 years... still waiting for something to surpass it.
People who think about this topic almost invariably get into philosophical discussions about what the word “random” means. In a sense, there is no such thing as a random number; for example, is 2 a random number? Rather, we speak of a sequence of independent random numbers with a specified distribution, and this means loosely that each number was obtained merely by chance, having nothing to do with other numbers of the sequence, and that each number has a specified probability of falling in any given range of values.
thankfully he is not one of those people...
Everyone talks about probability, but nobody can say what it is, to the satisfaction of others.
Lattice Theory, p197
Garrett Birkoff
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 15, 2016 - 04:43pm PT
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Don Whillans rode with El Don? Damn if he didn't get around!
I guess they shared a first name.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 15, 2016 - 04:46pm PT
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"Here's a good map you might use for a random tour of your own." OR THIS MAP ( not Randomy ,Saxony )BUT ALL ROADS LEAD TO
DA FLAMES
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2607974&msg=2800810#msg2800810
(were we talking' numbers? I guess, - 'Random' - defined by the numbers makes logical the illogic of the meaning of the word?)
Now I worked on this, even looked it up and read bit.....
"Everyone talks about probability, but nobody can say what it is, to the satisfaction of others."
Lattice Theory, p197
Garrett Birkoff:
People who think about this topic almost invariably get into philosophical discussions about what the word “random” means.
In a sense, there is no such thing as a random number;
for example, is 2 a random number?
Rather, we speak of a sequence of independent random numbers with a specified distribution,
and this means loosely that each number was obtained merely by chance,
having nothing to do with other numbers of the sequence,
and that each number has a specified probability of falling in any given range of values.
thankfully he is not one of those people...
sheesh you guys never get it!
The meaning of everything IS Random but 'blue' is always the right answer.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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May 15, 2016 - 05:42pm PT
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"Glue. Final answer."--Locker
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 15, 2016 - 06:34pm PT
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T H E .J O Y .O F .R A N D O M N E S SFestung Konigstein. Construction of this impressive fortress began in the 13th century,
If then I am to, then don't mind if I doTimes Two (x2)then if I'm to indulge and just for fun
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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May 15, 2016 - 11:42pm PT
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some days it's like a punch in the stomach,
sleep that won't leave your eyes,
a heavy rock hidden inside your backpack.
but the thing about grief,
it's also like a rainbow.
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85
Mountain climber
Washington
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2016 - 06:56am PT
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Strong work. Randomness is taking a journey that has no plans left. What a lovely way you have addressed loss . . . You surprise me with level 3 joy!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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May 19, 2016 - 11:07am PT
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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May 19, 2016 - 12:27pm PT
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New Mexico.
Back there, back down there. Back past the crooked collapsing fence, back past the old juniper. The smell of sage fills my nose and my thoughts wander back there. Down the long dusty road, pitted with years and memories. Potholes growing greater with faded days...
Back there, past the ghost of my uncle's dog, curled up under the old pomegranate tree that was old when I was born. Back to the creaking rotted porch that my grandmother sat on after a long day of chopping, cutting, digging, washing, kneading. I can still smell the fresh bread and look forward to the taste of honey.
Back there past the tattered door curtain to look at the broken windows, where the wooden pallet bed was, where grandma read me stories about faraway lands, and brave men. Through the deep desert dust across the floor, the floor she kept so clean.
Back there, across the room, to the western wall, her favorite window. The dry grass sways softly outside, in the deepening purple evening, and the real sound of insects, brings distant echoes of children's laughter, and adults talking late into the night.
Through the branches of the tired cottonwood, the sunset looks the same.....
Thanks for the inspiration Jefe.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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May 19, 2016 - 12:59pm PT
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Dang dude.
Thank you- that was beautiful.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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May 19, 2016 - 01:21pm PT
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(smiley shrugging emoticon)
Zuni, the pueblo I went to school in:
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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May 19, 2016 - 01:25pm PT
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85
Mountain climber
Washington
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2016 - 09:01pm PT
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Memorial Day,
Wire brush duct taped to a broken branch,
I'm scrubbing key holds and tearing off moss
To reveal a new shelf. Clean grey stone.
New problems! Just tying the laces on these old
shoes means some small celebration, marked by
sweat and chalk. Marked by time. This is how
I remember. A ritual that remains mysterious.
Don't have to think, I only have to do it,
the results are always perfect, even when
I flail, and struggle, and cuss, and peel.
One fine day it just . . . Might . . . Go
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originalpmac
Mountain climber
Anywhere I like
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May 31, 2016 - 10:43pm PT
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Good stuff Survival. Could almost smell the juniper.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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May 31, 2016 - 10:49pm PT
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originalpmac
Mountain climber
Anywhere I like
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Jul 20, 2016 - 12:57am PT
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Jul 20, 2016 - 07:51pm PT
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3.25 hrs c2c after work
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