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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 3, 2016 - 11:28am PT
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TWO WALLS SPRING 2016 SEASON
FIRST WALL:
Assuming the falcon closures on El Cap are lifted - like they have been the past two years - Anita514 and I will be starting out on New Dawn to Wall of Early Morning Light arriving at the bridge the morning of SUNDAY MAY 22. We would be interested in having a third person join us, so that we can move a little faster up the wall than in a team of two.
Ideally looking for:
- wall partner with substantial big wall experience who can lead half the pitches
- has a double portaledge that Anita and I can share while he/she uses one of my single ledges
- has wheels and can pick us up at SFO and bring us to the Valley via Mariposa storage locker
- has a couple #4 Camalots we can use in the wyde pitch above Lay Lady Ledge
In lieu of above, has lots of frequent flyer points they can transfer to me, and is generously willing to donate to the Dr. Piton Big Wall Beer and Grocery Fund.
New Dawn climbs the bitchin'est and best part of El Cap - short approach, early morning sunlight to hopefully awaken your Wall Doctor, and first shade in the afternoon. Not to mention FOUR kick-ass ledges along the way!
SECOND WALL:
I'll be starting around JUNE 12-15, and would love to find one or two experienced partners for something hard-ish like Space or Disorderly Conduct or something that I haven't yet done, most of which are on the hard-ish side. Gads, I don't want to solo again, so maybe I can troll up some interest here. Help!
I am going fishing shortly in Algonquin Park - if the damn ice ever melts! - and will be gone for about ten days starting the evening of Thursday May 5. So if you are interested in either of these two opportunities in Vertical Camping, may I ask that you contact Anita after May 5 and we'll talk once I'm back in civilization.
Cheers and beers on the wall, eh?
"Pass the Pitons" Pete
P.S. Please feel free to share this page or repost anywhere you think wall climbers will notice......
P.S. Please keep this post bumped on the front page while I'm away.
I'm around for three more days, so please contact me right away if you're interested.
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skitch
Gym climber
Bend Or
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So you are looking for a guide?
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Happiegrrrl2
Trad climber
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Can't meet your requirements, but if you have interest in doing the work of three people and can pay for my airfare, dog boarding, and the rental car, I'll meet you at the car rental and do all the driving.
I promise to regale you with stories of my adventures until you beg me to stop - that has to be worth something just in and of itself, no doubt.
No problem with stopping off to your storage locker, so long as you can make it quick.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2016 - 04:44pm PT
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^^ Those guys were great partners! We had so much fun on Tempest!
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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I'm your huckleberry.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Here's the deal.
I got the double ledge, the truck, a handful of old easy walls, Camalots 3.5,4,5, and could use a wall-guru to bring me up to date. I'll lead anything that won't kill me.
I've never hammered anything except as a professional builder. I do own about 20 hammers.
Honestly, I'm really interested in canyoning and wall rigging and would be psyched to learn from someone with your experience.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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i'll guide ya fishin, if you guide me on space:)
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Crazy Bat
Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
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Make it june and july and I can cover you on transportation the second half of july. I am comming with one of those lomg rope caving groups. Some of them are climbers too. You probably know some of us.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2016 - 08:53pm PT
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Oh yeah, I know you crazy long rope cavers, that's for sure. I recruited Cherie for a trip in Roppel Cave - her first and definitely her last. A year ago June when we were up on The Real Nose, we were bivy'd on El Cap Tower, and a couple of you guys were tandeming up in the middle of the night, just chatting and laughing and so on. But you were kinda loud.
And then Steve shouted, "Hey, can you guys please BE QUIET?! There are seven of us here TRYING to sleep!!!" {silence} {nothin' but crickets}
Blue - I *do* know how to fish, ya know.... ;)
Flip Flop - who are you?
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Do I get a cut if I bump i?
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Totally, meet us in the meadow.
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ECF
Big Wall climber
Ridgway CO
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You should do hockey night in Canada if you are going up WotEML.
Right side of the tower is kind of bogus.
Lay lady is awesome but I'd go tribal rite off the boot if LLL was the main objective.
The experience of WotEML is doing the entirety of the tall part of the SE face.
Space is excellent. Simply a must do for you.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2016 - 07:04am PT
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Christian,
Do you know anything about the status of Hockey Night in Canada? I would far rather do the entire Wall of Early Morning Light, but a lot of it was rechopped by Jim Beyer [for reasons never understood] when he put up Martyr's Brigade. So my understanding is it is impossible to climb the bottom part of WOEML. I fear that Hockey Night in Canada would also run in to this same problem as it shares a lot of the same bolt anchors and rivets. Do you know? Anyone? Buehler?
Brook - write me on Facebook asap, eh?
For sure, anyone else - come to the Bridge for beers. We'll be there!
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ECF
Big Wall climber
Ridgway CO
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With all the traffic these days and fruitcakes like Beyer, who can say.
Campfire on LLL is one of my fondest memories.
And the little ledge below the dawn roof was a unique little butt ledge, after so much blank.
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Dogtown.
Trad climber
Marshell islands atoll
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Way to go Pete! would like to go, call Mark Smith he is your Man. I will not be in the states for some weeks.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Lol. I can think of no better use for my ledge.
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Wow, that's pretty offensive.
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Lurkingtard
climber
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I'm shocked!
JLP is never offensive.
Shocked I tell ya.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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I deleted my post because jlp deleted
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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I'm not gonna say that this endeavor sounds like fun,
Walls are wrk/fun/work more/ more work/ giggles & more work,
stiff and sore when you're done,
for the (potential, opportunistic)
chance to get an immersion into the way's of the Pro vertical fright* hauler ,
this is the best team I could dream of, The extras make the wall the most fun,
A great Vertical camping crew to suffer with too.
though it shouldn't be a competition
no one going longer on the walls lately, eh' - ?
The More time you're up on a climb - is more time yer up!
*FRIEGHT
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Flip Flop seemed to get it - a perfectly logical and far less detailed assembly of things PPP has posted about himself many times over. But if Anita is offended, I'll delete.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2016 - 01:13pm PT
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Campfire on LLL is definitely in the works. Let's hope there are a few pine cones and branches lying around. A pre-existing fireplace in a wilderness area is legit.
New Dawn/Genesis/WOEML/etc has THE BEST TOPOUT on all of El Cap! A foot-wide hauling stance and then you walk right off. Damn, what a difference from P.O. or Pacemaker or some of those other nightmare topouts. Dihedral! The horror!
I need to check my hardware inventory, but Greg Barnes has kept me well supplied. I am wondering if it will be possible to get to P1 by swinging in from Space? I have replaced many many anchors on El Cap - one problem is that Anita and Brook aka Flip Flop have a bit of a time constraint.
Edit: JLP - I just saw what you wrote, and deleted. You really need to offer Anita a public apology.
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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It's cool.
HoHMahn, climbing with Flip Flop!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Don't let go
Trad climber
Diamond Bar, CA
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PM sent. Please let me know if it did not go through.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2016 - 03:18pm PT
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Lawsy lawsy lawsy....
....climbing with the two Snarkmeisters of McTopo. Heaven help me.
No PM's received. Can message me on FB though.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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May the Fourth be with us.
May the Farce be with us.
Semper Farcissimus.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2016 - 04:02pm PT
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I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy.
P.S. I'm disappointed in you guys. At least Karl Baba gave it to us on Facebook. Where's your one-two-three punch anyway?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2016 - 06:50pm PT
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Holy frig, that was fast. [that's what she said]
See? The sign of a true dirtbag. No money? No problem.
Note: Big wall climbing is a continual problem-solving process. Being able to solve problems - or better yet, avoid them altogether - is what you need to reach the summit. That, along with perseverance, a never-quit shut-up-and-climb mentality, a "this is going to hurt" expectation, and bringing along enough food, water, beer and time to virtually assure success.
I have solved every single big wall climbing problem that has ever existed. This is because I have caused every single big wall climbing problem that has ever existed.
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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I have solved every single big wall climbing problem that has ever existed.
What about the problem of you bringing way too much stuff and never getting out of 'bed' before 10am?
;)
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2016 - 09:18pm PT
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"What about the problem of you bringing way too much stuff and never getting out of 'bed' before 10am?"
That's why we're climbing the Dawn Wall and bringing Brook - when first light hits him, he can spring out of bed and lead the next pitch while you belay him and I make coffee. By the time I eventually wake up, it'll be my turn to get on the sharp end.
Too much stuff? O'Really? You never complain when I serve you a Gatorita with salted rim out of a Big Wall Wine Glass. You *could* drink it out of a coffee cup, you know. ;)
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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I'm bringing the magic pants
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2016 - 10:58am PT
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Anita likes SN IPA so bring her some!
Hoping to get Cleve on board for the blastoff party! Woo hoo!
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canyoncat
Social climber
SoCal
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3 climbers but you want the third to lead 1/2 the pitches. Which one of you isn't going to carry their own weight?
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snakefoot
climber
Nor Cal
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cade lloyd and i did hockey night to mescalito in the early nineties. pretty casual from what i remember. And i dont recall bad anchors.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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want the third to lead 1/2 the pitches. Which one of you isn't going to carry their own weight?
Lol, being a dedicated cleaner in a three person party is def not "not carrying your weight"
Too many people think cleaning bigwalls is a given due to free climbing mentality. Cleaning is a talent onto itself.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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May 14, 2016 - 12:18pm PT
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Bump for the OP
Anybody available to pick up Pete and Anita at the airport and take them to El Cap and help on a mega ultra big wall climb? My pony is sick.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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May 14, 2016 - 04:14pm PT
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Just a scratch.
Too bad weather is looking iffy.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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May 14, 2016 - 10:39pm PT
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I found a front clip for $1000 bucks. No wucking furries mate. Is there weather?
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Lurkingtard
climber
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May 14, 2016 - 11:39pm PT
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"Never go wall climbing with a flip flopper."
Warren Harding
;-)
~~~
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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May 15, 2016 - 07:19am PT
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So true. I deserve that.
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| Messages 1 - 43 of total 43 in this topic |
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