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| Messages 1 - 29 of total 29 in this topic |
Rock!...oopsie.
Trad climber
the pitch above you
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Apr 28, 2016 - 04:54pm PT
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Yer gonna......
lose yer gaddam toes,
and then die.
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ecdh
climber
the east
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2016 - 05:00pm PT
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I can accept that.
But i wanna go out with the flashest gear possible.
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ecdh
climber
the east
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2016 - 03:05pm PT
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Unfortunately i lack the reserve of a 1950s scotsman so need to cheat by using shoes. Youth of today eh? Getting soft.
Have just noticed LS do a new approach shoe, TX3, that may tick some boxes.
Anyone worn a pair to comment?
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Coach37
Social climber
Philly
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Apr 29, 2016 - 03:06pm PT
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Some company used to make a double-boot system that the inner boot was essentially a rock shoe. The idea was that you could ditch the outer for rock pitches, and use the full rig for cold belays or where you need to climb snow/ice with or without crampons.
Can't remember the name of the model, Sportiva made them I think.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Apr 29, 2016 - 03:06pm PT
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How long of a route are you looking at and where/when? Use trail runners for the approach?
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ecdh
climber
the east
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2016 - 03:33pm PT
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coach37: hmmmm, that sounds interesting. some ideas in that. i notice LS once did a range of esoteric such things that all seem to have been lost to the backwaters of cascadeclimbers sale forums.
johntp: multiday routes / alpine mixed with large granite faces. at altitude (4000m - 6000m) early winter conditions, asia.
not my first time doing this stuff and have found in the past that:
a) rock shoes too cold
b) trail shoes not up to the approach nor good enough for rock
c) boots/crampons only make rock pitches harder than needed
d) approach shoes too adapted to the climbing end of the spectrum (gandas, tennies etc) lack the tread to be good on approaches and the suede uppers woeful if they get wet
what im dreaming of is either a warm enough, big enough rock shoe thats worth carrying (and using a separate approach shoe or light boot), or ideally an approach shoe that has decent tread (ie a heel, vibram-ish tread on the aft etc) but can double as a rock shoe up to about 5.10.
open to ideas about modifying / chopping up gear, buying esoterica, being told to harden the f*#k up etc.
not man enough tho to go scottish barefoot.
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ecdh
climber
the east
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2016 - 03:36pm PT
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rgold: now we are talking! those ninjas look good too. thanks for the link and highlighting a blindspot in my searches.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Apr 29, 2016 - 03:40pm PT
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^^ Thanks for the info, rgold! Interesting.
I didn't realize Boreal has quite a few models of shoes for cold weather and altitude.
http://www.borealoutdoor.com/products/climbing
under Winter, listed are:
Fire Invernal Guetre
Ninja Invernal Guetre
Fire Invernal
Big Wall
Ice Mutant
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StefanS
Trad climber
Leavenworth WA
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Apr 29, 2016 - 04:49pm PT
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Hey ECDH
I have an older version of those and love them. Got them larger sized to be able to wear socks.
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ecdh
climber
the east
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2016 - 11:42pm PT
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cool. this is all good stuff. have looked into the Boreals but not available where i am and the Boreal importer - well they wont import. bastards.
will keep trawling the net. good to know its not a nutjob request - but what happened in the 90s to stop sportiva producing this stuff? economics, or climbers just got boring.
spotted mr jimmy chin with a pair of mega maxs in the (older) Meru film. if anyone knows of a pair gathering dust somewhere (size 44/45) im up for it.
StefanS: how do the boreals size compared to LS?
(apologies for always carrying on about La Sportiva, but 99% of the time they fit me perfectly)
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Apr 30, 2016 - 08:02am PT
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I'm sure you can get the Boreals from Europe, but there does seem to be a vendor in the US:
http://www.silvertipmountaincenter.com/silvertipmountaincenter_i13025769.html
(800) 863-0807.
I've never heard of them and, as many people know with 123Mountain, some bad scams are possible. Edit: WyoRockMan says they're good.
For European orders, the usual sizing problems from ordering by internet will apply, and returning things to European vendors will be costly. Way BITD, I used to order RD's from France (Au Vieux Campeur) well before you could buy them in the US. First time around I ordered a three-size spectrum and managed to sell the two pairs that didn't fit.
A cursory glance at the internet finds, for example,
http://www.bergfreunde.co.uk/boreal-fire-invernal-climbing-shoes/ (UK so English is spoken) A less than enthusiastic German reviewer says "Fits more like a narrow mountain boot and should be worn with socks."
Other possibilities are the Boreal Ninja Invernal Guetre and the Boreal Fire Invernal Guetre, the latter apparently also carried by Silvertip.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Apr 30, 2016 - 08:40am PT
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Silvertip is a legit business. I've had good experiences with them.
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Tricerabottoms
climber
Tri County Fairgrounds
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Apr 30, 2016 - 02:12pm PT
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Sportiva xplorers mid gTx was ideal but hey quit making them. May still be your size floating around..... Good luck
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Tricerabottoms
climber
Tri County Fairgrounds
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Apr 30, 2016 - 02:14pm PT
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I've switched to the sportiva hyper mid gtx and it is pretty damn close to the xplorers mid. Def cabable of climbing 5.10.
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ecdh
climber
the east
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2016 - 03:41pm PT
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Thanks rgold, appreciate the screen-work. Will follow it up. Im in Japan so may need to have resent thru a US address.
Re explorers: have a pair and whilst decent approach shoes i find them too flexible. That said they do tick enough boxes to not be off the table (good heal, fairly light, non-leather, ok rubber etc).
Anyone worn the LS Tx3 that seems to have replaced both the ganda and explorer?
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ecdh
climber
the east
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2016 - 04:30pm PT
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Thats a good point.
Ive found trangos ok for climbing rock once the rubber wears a bit. Seems the Mega Drus lace and are unlined (?) more like a rock shoe. Still hefty to carry tho but contenders.
The Rock jocks were a good option but confined to the back catalogue along with the others.
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StefanS
Trad climber
Leavenworth WA
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Apr 30, 2016 - 05:23pm PT
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Hey ECDH
I,ve only worn Boreal stuff so dont know the comparison. When I got these Invernals was wearing the Boreal Ballet. I got them a half or whole size larger, so I could wear socks. With the insulation they are comfy, I can wear mine all day.
They are wider than normal. It make wides less painful and there is more fiction for slabs.
I got them from Barabees store in Spain, they have a gray leather upper and look just like the Fires did. Just with a wider footprint.
I am going to reup this year and get the new one.
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ecdh
climber
the east
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2016 - 07:33pm PT
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StefanS: great info. Thanks. Might be the spanish dealer is the place to go.
Can i ask how cold youve found them ok at?
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Apr 30, 2016 - 08:42pm PT
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Barrabes may have them in the store, but none of the Boreal invernal models are in their online catalog.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Apr 30, 2016 - 08:49pm PT
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I've been sub-freezing in Mythos and they work fine with socks- even when snow from the approach gets on them, thaws, and refreezes into an icy glaze on the leather. Just use socks, and don't get them so tight that it restricts circulation.
Though I have to say those Boreals are pretty intriguing for cold missions.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Apr 30, 2016 - 11:01pm PT
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Did you try...
BOREAL JAPAN
Lost Arrow LTD.
1386-6 Suneroi Tsurugashima City
350-02 Saitama
la@lostarrow.co.jp
Tel. 492 71 7112
Tel. 492 71 7111
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ecdh
climber
the east
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2016 - 01:30am PT
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Nutagain: this is interesting and something thats half worked previously. cheers. a possibility is to spray em with scotch guard or somesuch and fit with a neoprene sock maybe.
good to hear about the ice on them.
rgold: yes, first stop was lostarrow. know them well after years of dealing with them. no joy and not interested in bringing in a single pair. boreal is not well represented in japan really, and i may have outlasted my left of center requests with them (local bullsh#t...)
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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LS Tx3 doesn't look anything like the Ganda, but rather just another trail shoe...
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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I'm not sure I want to climb above 5.7 in something I use for approach but this line of Sportiva shoes climb well. They all have the same sole and climbing up to 5.8 isn't too bad (I've seen a friend pull up to 5.11 problems wearing these). They are super solid on the approach and the three opotions cover most conditions. I boulder in the low-top Xplorers quite a bit and aside from micro edging, they're great.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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I have a pair of blue leather Scarpa Freney boots (not the Freney XT). They are kinda clunky for finesse footwork on rock, but they are well insulated and very comfortable. The sole and toe rubber is soft enough to stick reasonably well. Pretty good for edging. Too big to fit into finger cracks, but great for fist to OW. You can use flexible crampons with them.
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| Messages 1 - 29 of total 29 in this topic |
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SuperTopo on the Web
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climb to about 5.10
Let us know!