Discussion Topic |
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This thread has been locked |
Messages 1 - 185 of total 185 in this topic |
chrisxc
Sport climber
Ridgecrest
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 27, 2016 - 02:18pm PT
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So the last few trips to the A-hills I have noticed some new routes in the corridors, and some corridors past the candy store have climbs as well. Does anyone know what the grades and or names of these climbs are?
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Apr 27, 2016 - 03:15pm PT
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That place looks so cool. I stopped by on my way back from Tuolumne and the first boulder I touched, I sliced my finger on a quartz crystal.
Is there any rock there that isn't 30 grit?
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Apr 27, 2016 - 03:17pm PT
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lol what a PILE.. but for the 5.6 thru 10b climber it's Disney Land.. 11 and up the Chisel comes out, holds are bloody painful, choss city. I have climbed many routes mostly 10+ and up and one 13a Mufusa! will not be going back.
Last time I was there, this drunk dude was rapping off this low angle slab 2 pitch deal from the second to the first, but the rope was stuck because he ran the rope directly thru the bolt hangers, he tried to swing over to a ledge on the right but popped off the end of his rope, fell 50+ feet to the dirt. His partner was stuck on top of the first pitch!! Rope stuck on the second. People were climbing all around these guys, no one came to help!!! The guy stuck at the anchor was SCREAMING for help, everyone just kept climbing, I was 300 yards away topping out and saw his fall, yelled down to my gal and said "I think I just saw a climber DIE" anyway we packed up and drove over to the accident scene, and stabilized the fall victim, very combative while death gurgles were emanating from his throat, It was unreal, called 911 as well, I could smell the nasty Alcohol on his breath, but the EMT said drinking may of caused the accident, but it also saved his life, due to being relaxed and limp when he fell. Also it's not the first accident i have witnessed at the A Hills.
Enough said
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Apr 27, 2016 - 05:05pm PT
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So then we wont be running into you there either. Splendid.
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pile
Mountain climber
Kearsarge, CA
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Apr 27, 2016 - 06:57pm PT
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Garbage rock, crappy views, deranged locals running around drunk and stoned stealing water bowls.....
Dont waste yer time, go to the REAL eastside rock epicenter....BISHOP!
ORG and Pine Creek is nice! And the bouldering! Its great cuz its climbing but without the heavy rope thingy
Dont forget the Buttermilks! I heard Sharma climbed there !!!!!
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herm
Trad climber
Bishop
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Apr 27, 2016 - 07:20pm PT
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Amazing story. Who knew there were two pitch routes in the Alabamas?
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herm
Trad climber
Bishop
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Apr 27, 2016 - 07:38pm PT
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I see, it goes sideways.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 27, 2016 - 07:40pm PT
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The miniature golf of climbing.
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Apr 27, 2016 - 07:45pm PT
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All the bolts are arranged in vertical rows!
Weird . A drive by for sure.
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herm
Trad climber
Bishop
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Apr 27, 2016 - 07:52pm PT
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I think with a 70 metre rope you could prolly clip the first bolt on all the routes in the corridor. How cool would that be?
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Apr 27, 2016 - 08:54pm PT
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The miniature golf of climbing.
Nice.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 27, 2016 - 09:22pm PT
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Prolly check mtn project
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Apr 27, 2016 - 09:26pm PT
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Prolly need a re-sole after 2 pitches...
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Apr 27, 2016 - 09:58pm PT
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Easy routes everywhere, mostly brings in the gym crowd and these i wanna climb but not seriously crowd! Easy access, no real skills needed for anchors, creates a false sense of security!
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Jun 13, 2016 - 11:16am PT
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The hills blow! Why bother. Dirt roads and sharp crappy rock. For sure a choss pile! The local climbers are jerk too
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Jun 13, 2016 - 11:47am PT
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Lives of the Cowboys on the tall wall is two pitch.
And this is the only brand new climb in the hills. Me on the FA in 2015
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jun 13, 2016 - 11:48am PT
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suspicious post by Myles. I say we go investigate his claims. ;)
I bet there's even good granite just up the road TOO!
LOL
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jun 13, 2016 - 01:36pm PT
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Burch, over time I'm warming up to your sense of humor. That mummy thing was pretty funny.
Is this thread filled with "those are not the droids you are looking for" type of responses?
Cosmic, that was a picture of Gumby playing on bolders at the base of Lembert Dome.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Jun 13, 2016 - 02:09pm PT
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That's, The Shark's Fin Arete, and the FA wasn't put up in 2015.
Maybe you posted the wrong pic. Your sarcasmometer is malfunctioning.
And the Lives of Cowboys thing was in response to this upthread a bit
Who knew there were two pitch routes in the Alabamas?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jun 13, 2016 - 04:18pm PT
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Haters gunna hate
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herm
Trad climber
Bishop
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Jun 13, 2016 - 07:28pm PT
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surfstar
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Jun 13, 2016 - 08:45pm PT
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AHills is awesome! Its one of those places where you get to take home parts of holds as souvenirs.
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Jun 13, 2016 - 11:04pm PT
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Look at this choss some idiot bolted! It looks as if it will just fall over. Why bother? Put the bolts somewhere else.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jun 14, 2016 - 11:02am PT
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That looks kind of cool
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 14, 2016 - 11:14am PT
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TradHog
Trad climber
Yellow Rose of Texas
Jun 13, 2016 - 02:21pm PT
^^^^^^
This is why I will never go to the RetardHills. What a shitshow!
As someone posted up thread.....and I paraphrase: "..Splendid - we will be-able to enjoy ourselves"
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 14, 2016 - 12:58pm PT
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Tradhog has proven himself to be witty, relevant, and pleasant to be around!1!!! and not dumb1!!!!1
what do you mean... a troll who throws rocks? Burch even YOU have learned the value of a well placed LOL when trying to be funny. LOL :>)
jess saying
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Jun 14, 2016 - 05:42pm PT
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Certainly some pretty sketchy stone there, but there are a bunch of really great, solid routes, too. Was over at Temple of Kali a couple of days ago--great stuff! The Loaf? Western Wall? Awesome. Get over on the Hanging Tree for a couple of 10c classics.
BAd
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Jun 14, 2016 - 05:49pm PT
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Been climbing at that joint since before there was even a guidebook. I always have fun there. Hate it?? Don't go there. It's real simple.
PS-I also have fun playin' putt-putt golf. ;-)
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Jun 14, 2016 - 09:50pm PT
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Ahhhh chosspile. What a great way to describe it! I wonder what it's like beyond the road.
Locker you bring up a good a point. Just because some one can't dance to rhythm of the beat it is instantly rreferred to as a chosspile.
Interesting....
Locker hope your well... great times!
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Jun 14, 2016 - 10:19pm PT
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Damn straight it is a chosspile! Come on by and drag me away from the new project. .. please eeee!
Classic dingus... we got turdpiles and chosspiles
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Jun 14, 2016 - 10:29pm PT
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Wow, the last time I climbed there we had a blast (in Sept.).
Now you all are gripping me up.
I guess, like most places, it is best to avoid crowded weekends.....and knuckleheads.
But, believe me...if I see someone take a "death
fall." I will be soon on the scene to help in any way possible.
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Jun 14, 2016 - 10:59pm PT
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Life is good locker... don't be shy in these parts.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Jun 14, 2016 - 11:06pm PT
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When we were there last I never saw any human turdpiles, but Ashley's pup got in the habit of digging them up. We had to start doing a paw check before we let him in the van.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Jun 14, 2016 - 11:19pm PT
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Belayer used an umbrella (not kidding).....
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Jun 14, 2016 - 11:29pm PT
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Jun 15, 2016 - 06:05am PT
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Headed out for some fine choss this morning. Enjoy pounding them keyboards. I'm a chowing choss!
BAd
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Jun 15, 2016 - 07:53am PT
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Tony..... Grinding some choss!
Bad climber you out there today or somewhere else?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Jun 15, 2016 - 08:54am PT
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^^^^^^^^
Hey!!! That's my shovel!!!!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 15, 2016 - 09:40am PT
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Damn straight it is a chosspile! Come on by and drag me away from the new project. .. please eeee!
Did you get a Mortgage?
full time gig?
What Next?
KIDS???
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Jun 15, 2016 - 11:20am PT
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love the hills. Seeing pictures on this forum from locker and blitzo years ago lit the flame. ;)
Congrats on the house Myles and Amy.
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Jun 15, 2016 - 11:30am PT
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Yeah.... no more campground and hiding in the winters..... we have a mortgage! Never thought it. Would happen.... kids the day that happens you boys better watch out for the next crusher. .. not any time soon!
Been pretty dormant since we are doing a major remodel... Amy the painter and I the "Bob Villa". Cutting wood and getting fat!
Thanks Split
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Jun 15, 2016 - 11:39am PT
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Are you standing on a hook? Hard to tell from the picture
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 15, 2016 - 12:15pm PT
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Miles thats cool....
Now you get to get good at some new things.
Enjoy
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Jun 15, 2016 - 12:18pm PT
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Yup it's a hook. And guyman... guess yur right
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Jun 15, 2016 - 04:22pm PT
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Hey, Myles:
Back in Bishop now, but we had a great time in the Cattle Pocket--Magic Pig, The Slab, Fizz, and then over to Temple of Kali. Beautiful day--and windy as hell right now. We were okay in the Hills, which is why we went down there. All the other crags up here were forecast to have terrible winds. Good day was had.
Best of luck with your crib. Nice to see a young couple really investing in Lone Pine. It's a cool place--although running about 9 deg. F. warmer than Bishop today.
BAd
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Jun 15, 2016 - 11:13pm PT
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Lacing up the dogs to send two pitches of mank.....Going old school without the aid (check the hammer). Can't rate it 'cause it gets harder every time. Soon there will be no route. Gonna challenge Moser to a choss off though I suspect he's trying for some semblance of quality while ours can easily qualify for "worst routes on the East Side" which would put them in the running for "worst routes worldwide". So we should win easily.....
Here's the kid learning the trade...... Not worth telling where they are 'cause there so dag....
And last but not least (and by far the worst of the lot)......
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Jun 15, 2016 - 11:28pm PT
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Hey old goat! We be chossin' tomorrow. ... morning!
Bad... awesome you had fun. Thanks for the good outlook. Don't be shy in these parts. It's quite here but that doesn't mean it's small.
Tony... I'm looking forward to our date... Time dance amigo!
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Jun 15, 2016 - 11:38pm PT
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Fo! Sho! Bro!.....Pulling Down! (and off the holds!) Gotta go to sleep! As a long standing member of the OFS, I need the rest to keep with the BAD mo fo that is yoursef!
LATER LEVELS......
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Jun 16, 2016 - 12:15am PT
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Keeping this at the top! See. The boys're adding some overhang to the show! Awesome! Maybe even get the Medusa to stop by on his way the kiddy pool nee Gorge.....now I gotta get some sleep....
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Johnny K.
climber
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Jun 16, 2016 - 07:24am PT
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Ground up oatmeal sewer bolting!
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Jun 16, 2016 - 01:16pm PT
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Garbage rock, crappy views
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Jun 16, 2016 - 04:17pm PT
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Richard.....what makes you think I use a drill?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jun 16, 2016 - 06:07pm PT
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Well, I, like Pud, always dug the viewcrumbling rock, gear ripping out
sure there is lots of that there is lots of good climbing too.( if you know what to do )
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Jun 16, 2016 - 08:11pm PT
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Hey Geronimo. .. you place bolts with your fist?
Knar!
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Jun 16, 2016 - 08:55pm PT
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The Alabama Hills are an ok place. There's some great rock and not so great rock. I remember it being called a poor man's JT. There were very few routes in the area years ago. You just have to figure out where the better areas are. I always have a good time when I go there. It's a nice diversion from the Bishop area.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jun 23, 2016 - 12:52pm PT
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Gomz ripping it up...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jun 23, 2016 - 12:53pm PT
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Crappy light conditions
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cvcucr
Mountain climber
Riverside
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Jun 23, 2016 - 01:59pm PT
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crappy camping
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Jun 23, 2016 - 08:29pm PT
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Hah. The "bivi" is on the Slab route. Night climbing working "Mustafa"--13 stout. Mr. E and I are going to replace the buttonheads on the 10a slab route, a A-Hills classic, if a bit chossy.
BAd
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Jun 23, 2016 - 10:09pm PT
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Crazy how much they look alike.
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Trock
Sport climber
Ojai, Ca.
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Oct 30, 2016 - 05:43pm PT
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Your right Myles, the Hills blows. Why bother? Chossy rock & crapy views.
Keep driving to the Bishop area. Keep up the good work Myles!
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Oct 30, 2016 - 08:51pm PT
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New route over near The Deli? Rap anchors? We'll tap it!
BAd
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Oct 30, 2016 - 08:57pm PT
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We cruised down there on Friday when the weather was bad in Bishop and had a fun afternoon.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 30, 2016 - 11:14pm PT
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Bad, where's the Deli?
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rurprider
Trad climber
Mt. Rubidoux
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Oct 30, 2016 - 11:24pm PT
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The Deli is north of the Tall Wall. Follow the trail to the right from the Meat Loaf Cave.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 31, 2016 - 01:02am PT
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gracias
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Oct 31, 2016 - 06:08am PT
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A fantastic new one we've done twice already: Run for the Hills
(Found it on Mtn. Proj.)
BAd
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Oct 31, 2016 - 07:39am PT
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Should name it RUN FROM THE HILLS lolol.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 31, 2016 - 09:06am PT
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DMT, no need to have a poopy attitude.
When we going?
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Oct 31, 2016 - 09:23am PT
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Wife's observation is that with the sheer volume of traffic in the Hills, they should put in some pit toidies.
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Nov 21, 2016 - 10:12pm PT
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Muy nice
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Nov 21, 2016 - 11:04pm PT
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Nov 21, 2016 - 11:10pm PT
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Nov 21, 2016 - 11:16pm PT
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Nov 21, 2016 - 11:47pm PT
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Nov 21, 2016 - 11:49pm PT
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Nov 21, 2016 - 11:54pm PT
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Nov 22, 2016 - 12:03am PT
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Nov 22, 2016 - 11:58am PT
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Burrito Bandito......what was that thing you snagged on the FAAAAAR left side of the Dinosaur Crack. Stout .11+ (quickly got downgraded by Amy! :)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Nov 22, 2016 - 02:01pm PT
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Delicious choss!
More pics please.
Wish I could head down this year.
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ß Î Ř T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Nov 24, 2016 - 07:57pm PT
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Nov 25, 2016 - 01:17am PT
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Hey... manytrees, I've been all over them Hills where's your's hidden?
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Nov 25, 2016 - 09:03am PT
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Many......you keepin' that area DL? If that is just a tease, we're a11 itchin' for some foreplay! out there this weekend.
Myles -
Shouldn't you be working on a busted water heater? I'm telling Amy you're f*ckin' off, doin' laps on the Penis. :0
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Nov 25, 2016 - 10:33am PT
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Busted on the burnt penis...
The Hills have eyes! 0
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Many Trees
climber
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Nov 26, 2016 - 03:33pm PT
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A gentleman never tells...
but I'm a climber, so i should just show you.
I'm there Sun-Wed.
DL for now, still some more "Chossy" lines that need to go up, plus everything has a brutal 20-35 min approach.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Nov 26, 2016 - 08:33pm PT
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Can't wait until you guys finish developing that new area! "The Blackening" looks great.
BAd
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Nov 26, 2016 - 10:18pm PT
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Tis the season
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Nov 27, 2016 - 07:23am PT
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Ahh Punters world.
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Nov 27, 2016 - 09:04am PT
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Constine.... Jeffe...
How could it be a punters world.
Define?
Is a lack of climbs?
Poor rock?
Great access?
Beautiful views?
Lack of crowds?
Billions of square feet of vertical rock?
Killer training?
I'm confused?
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Nov 27, 2016 - 09:10am PT
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Patiently waiting....
I call this place home...
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rurprider
Trad climber
Mt. Rubidoux
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Nov 27, 2016 - 09:14am PT
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^^^^Too Funny^^^^
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Nov 27, 2016 - 09:15am PT
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I spent two nights there over the past few months and was astonished and disgusted by the amount of poop and toilet paper laying around the easy camping/climbing spots. There should definitely be toilets installed and/or free wag bags. Based on the amount of traffic there I don't see how it can be self regulated and maintain a sanitary environment. People just keep finding new places to poop to avoid pooping on poop and it's leading to grid pooping to go along with the grid bolting. I may not support all the bolting but I can tolerate it, the poo not so much. Sorry for the rant...just in a poopey mood about such a cool place being soiled.
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Nov 27, 2016 - 09:16am PT
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Thank you burchy
+1 for a toilet. .. but BLM wouldn't pull the trigger. .. hate to break it to you though most of the poop is from the climbers! Not the RVers
How much paper did you pick up to help?
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Nov 27, 2016 - 12:09pm PT
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I pick up a lot of TP there. Dopes are too dopey to think about packing it out. Bury the poop; pack out the paper. Too easy. I always have a trowel and plastic bag for the business. The soil is really sandy and easy to dig--a perfect cat box. Leave NO trace, people!
I'm wit ya, Myles. Long live the Hills!
BAd
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 27, 2016 - 01:33pm PT
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The toilet seat is classic. Add some footrests and cruise down Sunset Blvd using that baby. Or maybe a special addition to Mule Daze.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Nov 28, 2016 - 08:18am PT
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Someone is calling you out, Jeff!
"PUNT THIS, 'CONSTINE-LY WHINING'!"
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Nov 28, 2016 - 08:19am PT
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1st Down and Goal....
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Nov 28, 2016 - 10:13am PT
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The Portal in storm. Nice, Mooch.
BAd
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Nov 28, 2016 - 10:18am PT
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Myles,
I think Jeff may be experiencing a bad case of choss envy. You know, when another mans choss is bigger and better. It's tough living with inadequate choss.
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Nov 28, 2016 - 11:38pm PT
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Chossssssssssss! I forgot...
The place Sucks! "A poor man's Joshua Tree".....
Keep going... it's one stop light, grumpy coffee,lousy service at most of the restaurants and the wifi on main street is spotty.
I need more...
I'm going to the Happy place.
Bolton.. you are correct my good Sir:)
Where's the Chicken for some saucy input on the chossy?
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Nov 29, 2016 - 07:20am PT
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Wait.....you forgot about "Don't Crush The Brush!" disrupts his 'bumper belay'. Pass the Peet's Quad Latte', non-fat, no room, 180, with a single pump of Crčme Brulee'.
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Johnny K.
climber
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Nov 29, 2016 - 08:20am PT
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Even a sewer has it's beauty one way or another, it's in the choss eye of the beholder. ;)
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Nov 29, 2016 - 10:11am PT
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Yeah, Myles, what the hell is it with the "grumpy coffee" there in LP? I've actually stopped going because of the nasty tood in that place. I bring stove and coffee gear for my ritual brew before going home. I miss the cool, sweet vibe of the old place. If I had Trump bucks, I'd open a coffee house down the street and endow it with a trust fund so it wouldn't matter whether it made a profit or not. LP needs a chill hang!
BAd
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 29, 2016 - 10:25am PT
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Nice work, I have looked at that White Trash thing before.... figured it would kick my ass.
Looking forward to this season and doing some new stuff.
Grumpy Coffee... hahahaha, yes- last time I went in that place I was shocked at the attitude, who owes that place? How can one be not happy looking at those mountains every morning?
But at least there is a great old-time climbing store with wonderful people running the place.
Thanks for posting.... anyplace to get some beta for these new climbs???
Oh to add.... Matt, do what I do and bring a shovel, gloves and a big ass plastic bag... find the sh#t, dig a hole, toss the sh#t into it and toss the TP into the plastic bag.... and take time to educate any newish climbers you find out there about the desert, how to camp and how to take care of one of the rare remaining non-regulated spots we have.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Nov 29, 2016 - 10:43am PT
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Oh to add.... Matt, do what I do and bring a shovel, gloves and a big ass plastic bag
Better put a keeper chain on that shovel...
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Nov 29, 2016 - 10:44am PT
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Hey, Burchey, thanks for the post. I went on there and added my own One-star review. What a dump.
BAd
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Nov 29, 2016 - 01:49pm PT
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LP needs a chill hang!
Yah, its own brew haus! Ditch that weak a$$ BBQ next to the Puke-Up Factory and replace it with 'The Portal Brew Craft Co.' (aka Choss City Suds)
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 29, 2016 - 03:36pm PT
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I have thought about a NANO brewery..... they have the prefect street to put it on .. "Brewery st."
and X15X15 .... Seems to me you don't get out to some of the climbing towns anymore. Right now Bishop is jam packed with climbers from all over the globe, some on 30 day vacations. Many rent a motel room or a home for the entire stay. Lots of folks dirtbag still but I am really surprised at the sheer volume of climbers... walk into Vons at 10:30 at nite you will see what I mean.
Lone Pine is some what different, my co-workers climbed Mt. Whitney last summer, they stayed at a Motel for two nites, ate a bunch of meals in Lone Pine and bought some down clothing, a sleeping bag and a better back pack at Elevations.
I think the old view that climbers do not have coin is dead wrong in 2016.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Nov 29, 2016 - 03:55pm PT
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Better put a keeper chain on that shovel
And the dog bowl!!
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Nov 29, 2016 - 04:34pm PT
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35 foot 5.12 lol. walked it, 11d.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Nov 29, 2016 - 05:31pm PT
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Burchy, Or Jtree 10d lol.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Nov 29, 2016 - 06:58pm PT
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That's Crabby Coffee by the way....Myles does manage to get a half smile out of Mike the Sikh at the Mobil.......there are good spots though....We'll let you guess from the photos just like the climbs we all don't want to share.
edit: I love watching the hubby play online poker while his wife brow beats you for ordering a breakfest sando....Lone Pine reminds me of where I grew up....Bolinas. The original town that hates to serve you. I love it though.....
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Nov 29, 2016 - 10:28pm PT
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AHaha... Jeff! You do like the Hills! Don't you... very sneaky!;)
And boys.....
Guyman as far as new stuff just wander into random corridors it's all hiding
Jonny... you read the story!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Nov 30, 2016 - 06:29am PT
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From the Mount Whitney Restaurant
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Dec 13, 2016 - 09:24am PT
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Pinging Mr. Moser! What are you and the Misses doing for Santa's Birthday? Hopefully not sending a canned ham to Connie The Blue Hair. Boring.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Dec 13, 2016 - 04:49pm PT
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What do want? Mr. DALEY
Ohhhh... I now get it cryptic!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 12, 2017 - 09:53pm PT
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That thing is pretty cool looking.
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Mar 21, 2017 - 01:45am PT
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I know where that's at.... Muy Nice boys!
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Mar 21, 2017 - 06:41am PT
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There's a lot still to be done in the 'Bamas if you're into some epic scrambles. I could see some sort of "via ferrata" style approaches to some of those high walls. Crazy tower, meng.
BAd
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Mar 23, 2017 - 07:53pm PT
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Mar 24, 2017 - 06:41am PT
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Lone Pine just wouldn't be the same without it's surly service-workers. It took about two years- but I finally got that woman at the coffee shop to crack a smile and stop scowling in disdain every time we walk in the door. She only delays about 1 minute pretending to be too busy to take an order rather than the 5 she used to. I think she's warming up to me.:)
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Apr 21, 2017 - 05:33pm PT
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Petch
Gym climber
knapsack crack
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Apr 26, 2017 - 10:39am PT
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Put this one up a couple of weeks ago.
"Once you go poodle you don't go back". 5.10 9 bolts to a two bolt anchor. 90 feet. Optional 3" piece before first bolt. Located to the right of Lost eye to the moon and just right of the roof crack "Hungoverhang"
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 26, 2017 - 11:27am PT
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nice!
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Apr 26, 2017 - 12:54pm PT
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Cool, Petch. We'll check it out!
BAd
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Apr 26, 2017 - 02:36pm PT
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OT.....you coming to K-Ville on the 2oth, Bad?
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Apr 26, 2017 - 04:06pm PT
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the "2oth"? Huh? Boy, haven't climbed in Kernville in a while. I'm currently in the throes of moving to Bishop and wrapping up my career, so most of my time is spent on that--at least for the next few weeks.
BAd
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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Apr 26, 2017 - 04:35pm PT
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Climbed here a few weeks ago when the weather was a little rough for skiing. What a place!
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Apr 27, 2017 - 06:09am PT
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Oh, great shot, Telemon01! Thanks. I'll be driving by today on the way to Bishop.
BAd
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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May 21, 2017 - 06:00am PT
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Okay, here's a new one that I can't find on Mtn. Proj. It's between Southern Blond and the Candy Store with a brief scramble up into the rocks. The climb starts above a cave/slot, but we started in there with a stick clip from a stem. You could start above, too, but don't blow the first clip--serious splatter. I'm thinking 10a/b for a taller person with three distinct cruxes, maybe 10c for shorter climbers--i.e. Mz. BAd Klimber. Any intel on this one?
BAd
PS: It's a pretty good route. Go do it!
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Petch
Gym climber
knapsack crack
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Apr 24, 2018 - 05:39pm PT
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Here’s another one we did this last weekend.
Left route is “Once you go poodle you don’t go back “. I originally thought it was 10b/c but after climbing it again, closer to 10a.
The new one to the right is “Strawbillie Poodles Forever”. Steep climbing with positive holds. Probably 10b. 7 bolts and a couple of cams. I used a red alien and a 2 Camalot. 2 bolt anchor and around 80 feet tall
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Apr 24, 2018 - 09:47pm PT
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I bolted a cave last year. Came back and someone stole the first three draws then left a biner. You would think anyone that wants to climb a horizontal ceiling would understand why they are there. If you your were strong enough to get as far as that person did why rob the route?
Banana into your pocket 12c tall wall area
Booty is my game.... free gear bring it on! Stealing from something over your head...?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 24, 2018 - 09:55pm PT
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Probably hippies.... yep... some of them there G'damn hippies...
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Apr 25, 2018 - 09:19am PT
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I have always enjoyed a spring trip to get the season started. This year we had quite a crew with a proper TR coming soon from Micronut. 5 of us were celebrating turning 45 this year so many of the names of the new routes are according.
I had been scouting around and found a cool hallway with potential. Head up a small narrow gully on the left side of Rama-Lama-Ding-Dong on Elephant Rock and enjoy a nice shaded hallway. It only gets about 45min of sun per day. We called it Birthday Wall. Macronut and Andrew got to another wall behind Birthday, 45 Wall and a couple cracks went on those. Fun all around.
The far left line on 45 Wall Adam called Auburn Line instead of Life Line.
The TR to the right of the bolted arete was first called Freddy Gone Wrong but Paul Amico changed the name to Pokin & Chokin(Aka: Freddy Gone Wrong). Funny if you know Freddy.
The hallway is about 15'-20' below what you can see in the picture. The is a hole squeeze on the one of the cracks Joe put up, some couldn't fit.....
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Apr 25, 2018 - 10:59am PT
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The birthday wall is originally a R. Collins Solo for his birthday
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 25, 2018 - 12:04pm PT
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what's a shunt? Do you mean a 'cold shut'? or a version of a cold shut?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 25, 2018 - 01:02pm PT
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I was there last weekend too... with Banny. We did a bunch of climbs- it was good fun.
I wish I had seen these recent updates.
I always run into older climbers- must be something about the place. We ran into Windy White...and Rob.. we started trying to figure out who we all were back in the day... when she said she dated Dick Silly it all came back to me.
Grannies and Grandpas on the rocks - who could have ever imagined this climbing thing producing a bunch of old active climbers.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Apr 25, 2018 - 01:04pm PT
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The birthday wall is originally a R. Collins Solo for his birthday
Concur. Marty has the gouge and will be putting Raleigh's lines in the next guide. You'll have to work a wee-bit harder and head up higher to find the goods.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Apr 25, 2018 - 02:33pm PT
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Either way they were good fun and it looks like the name was in the ball park, hahaha. Any idea which line/s he did, there were 6 on Birthday?
When is this guide book coming?
Munge, I call those clip into anchors shunts (for whatever reason).
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Apr 26, 2018 - 07:50am PT
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Glad you enjoyed that route on Chocolate Turkey Tower, BAd. Munge, Steve Gomez and myself put up a few others thereafter, including this one over by Arizona Tower ("Arizona Dome" in the old Stausmann guide).....
'Sh*t Howdy' (5.9), Horse Apple Tower
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/114056109/sh#t-howdy
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Apr 26, 2018 - 05:40pm PT
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I'm glad to hear that some of you (ahem) won't be there!
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Apr 26, 2018 - 08:22pm PT
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Thanks, Mooch. I thought I espied some bolts over there last time I was at AZ Tower. I'll get on 'em. Short, but the rock looks really good.
BAd
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 26, 2018 - 11:53pm PT
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Thx for doing the updates Mooch.
Stoked someone got on the ChocoTurkeyTower!
Choss4lyfe!
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Apr 27, 2018 - 10:06am PT
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Yah Mungie, I finally got around to adding them a few months back.
I was there last weekend too... with Banny.
Loomey said he and Elliot ran into you and Banny over at Cactus Flats. Heard bloody's were being served. Nice!
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Guangzhou
Trad climber
Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
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Apr 30, 2018 - 12:23pm PT
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What's it like in June?
I have a young daughter, looking for child friendly crags for an extended summer road trip.
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Manimal
climber
SLT, Ca
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Apr 30, 2018 - 12:34pm PT
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Unfortunately it has become as popular with the RV community as climbers. Was there for the first time in a decade a couple weeks ago and was blown away by the number of campers out there. Some RV's right at the base of climbs and the people were annoyed when climbers came into "their" camp to climb. I was of the mind that it was looked down upon to camp in the Hills. The BLM guy doing rounds out there was straight up depressed about the outlook for this place. All in all, it's still a beautiful hang and that's what you get in the front country these days. "only gonna get worse" - BLM guy
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Apr 30, 2018 - 01:13pm PT
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For June, you'll want to only climb in the morning and evening. But a great place for kids.
The camping/rv situation is getting sad. I used to always go to Tuttle Creek to camp to respect the no camping request. But got continually discouraged from seeing everyone else camp in the hills. It is really convenient with a popup camper to not have to collapse and drive to climb each day. ;)
So I starting finding out of the way/out of view sites, but now even those are usually taken. I guess I'm part of the problem now.
Will there be a ban in the future?
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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Apr 30, 2018 - 11:08pm PT
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Our world will shrink
No surprise
Glad there is still another quiet place to go for our generation
Never been
But looks like a wonderland of dummy domes
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RURP_Belay
Big Wall climber
Bitter end of a bad anchor
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My guess is a couple of years Alabama Hills will become the same kind of BLM sh1tshow that New Jack City was before the renovation and full-time host:
RVers making encampments everywhere
Off-roaders tearing up every available patch of sand
Transients setting up temporary housing
TP & trash everywhere, with that particular smell of partially buried human waste - due to lack of facilities.
The only hope I can see is that because it is so close to a town (unlike New Jack), the BLM may make steps towards correcting this earlier rather than later.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Rurp et al. are correct. It's crazy now on weekends. We made the mistake of going there on a weekend recently. We got there early in the day on Friday, and we were damn lucky to find a camping spot. Virtually every spot we could think of or access with our trailer was taken, including way up at the Oz parking area, which was rarely occupied. But, to be fair, and this seems true of New Jack as well, this increased traffic has led to better stewardship and an overall improvement of conditions. Hard to believe, but true. I've been going to the Hills for well over a decade, and in the early days, the piles of broken glass, doodoo papers, etc. were pretty bad. I've always made a strong effort to clean up, including, yep, other people's used doodoo papers, broken glass, cans, bottles, and once, over at Whitney Cave, a phreakin' TV! Some jackass and dumped it. Gah.
The cause is pretty clear, I think: The Internet. With massive posting on social media and other websites, these once obscure areas get HAMMERED. Gotta get my Instagram hit, yo. Interestingly, we met a really nice young newbie couple from LA. The woman was especially stoked on how low key the weekend was! She and her man had gotten a spot at Tuttle Creek, which, unlike Josh, actually had camping spaces available. My wife and I were astonished and a bit bummed at the crowds, and, yep, we were part of them. On the other side, everyone was really nice, and the climbing is so spread out, we never had to deal with crowding at the actual crags. Of course, we stayed far away from Tall Wall and Hoogie Wall. Once you step into the 5.10 range, crowds thin out quite a bit, too. In the future, I'll be avoiding weekends. I think the nice spring weather definitely increases the issues, too.
BAd
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Hopefully people are still picking up glass and the little dull grey "rocks" at the base of the walls (yep, lead bullets), it really does clean things up over time.
Still remember a rather large woman sitting next to the parking for Great Falls Basin, painstakingly sifting through the sand and pulling out shards of glass. She was a Trona local and said she felt responsible for all the glass bottles they had broken and shot up there when she was a teenager!
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Quite a story, Greg. The graffiti was bad there, too. Horesman's Center outside of Apple Valley is totally ruined, just trashed. I've had a lot of good times there, but I can't bring myself to return. We go to Fairview instead.
BAd
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Nanobody
Trad climber
Fresno, CA
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I usually go to the Hills exclusively in the winter months. In my experience its pretty quiet at that time, just a handful of climbers, and few RV types.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Go when the temps dip into 30s at night and you’ll be in good company!
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bishop
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Rumor has it that the Hills will be closed to camping in the near future. Being loved to death. Was like JT back in the day but getting crowded. But still fun. Moser and I were cruising around lookin' at stuff with all day winter sun and saw a wall. Went over and threw up a moderate on it. Looked around and found dozens of pairs of shrunken women's shoes....
So we named the place "Old Soles Wall". Gang came back for a great fun day of putting up routes from 5.8 to 5.12. Find the shoes and you'll find the routes....
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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It was Andrew soleman. Tony ! See you are getting old
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RURP_Belay
Big Wall climber
Bitter end of a bad anchor
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You do know power drills are OK at A-Hills, right?
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bishop
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There.....all fixed. Sorry Chris!........
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bishop
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And Power? Soul Killer......Gotta keep the soul on the Old Soles.....
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Given how crazy it was on the weekend my wife and I were there, it wouldn't surprise me if camping got nixed. It would be a shame. It was a lot like Josh, though, with folks coming in really late and driving all over the place, blasting headlights into your camp, hunting for a spot. Pretty sucky. If a closure does occur, Tuttle Creek campground will be totally packed on weekends, and folks will have to hunt for alternate accommodations. Once again, in my lifetime, I will see the closing of another great American climbing hang: I saw Josh get locked down, Camp 4 in the off season, bivi spots around Canmore, Alberta, and elsewhere along the Icefields Parkway. I feel for the new generation of climbers who won't get to experience these places the way we did. Folks will have to get more adventurous and develop camping and crags in the wilds of Nevada, as seen elsewhere on this board. RIP, Alabama Hills.
BAd
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Bad... I do not see camping as a problem at all. To me it seems like most campers ar not climbers. Most are the RV trailer type... and with ample FREE spots who can blame them.
Last time I was there- 2 weeks ago- it was pretty quiet.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bishop
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One could argue that Hollywood gets unlimited access as they pay millions (that's the rumor) to the BLM to do whatever in the Hills and we should be able to do the same. But I would rather see it closed to camping then having to deal with the harried weekend warrior set. Like Bad said, shame the next gen wont see it and I used to be one but gave up the coast for the lifestyle. Plenty of great free camping nearby and worth the trade off of tp and camping mobs at the base....
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Yeah, Guyman, we'll see. If the Hills do get closed to camping, it will be interesting to see how it plays out. At least with the RV set--and since I now have a fully functional small trailer, I'm one--the impacts are very mild--no TP or doodoo dumps, trash carried out, etc. The RV crowd is generally quiet and respectful, in my experience, anyway. Although I HATE generators. They are Satan's crap.
BAd
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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All generators should have a built in clock so they shut down at 9:00 PM and cant be re started until 8:00 AM
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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back on topic -
there is an easy 4-5 bolt climb on nice patina plates 100 feet or so east of the Walnut.
Kinda fun, kinda armpitty. ;)
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bishop
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Ya Splitclimber! Back on track! Sorry I had a hand in the serious.....Back to the Choss!
Here's the Rossevator casually (beer just out of site) starting ......something. I think this was on Moser's Bday as well.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Great drillin' styleeeee. Long live the choss.
BAd
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Onsighted? Previews and milking the TR up to the crux......Redpoint send. ;)
Once you step into the 5.10 range, crowds thin out quite a bit, too.
Yah, you can chase the shadows pretty well. Always thought the Western Wall was ideal for slimming out the crowds and staying cool.
And, "John-stine"......your spew is all over your bib.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Whitney Cave really thins the crowd out. And if there is anyone there just step around the corner to the 5.11 slab routes and you will be all alone. And you will be on some of the best routes and rock in the whole place.
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rbolton
Social climber
The home.
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Wow. Quite an interesting obsession with armpits, Constine. Or did you just sit on your saggy old ball bag again? I hear that can make a fella cranky.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Western Wall is soooooo bitchin'. And I don't think I've ever seen anyone on the Hangin' Tree--those two 10's are fantastic.
BAd
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bishop
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May 12, 2018 - 05:40pm PT
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