New Climbs at Alabama Hills

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Messages 1 - 185 of total 185 in this topic
chrisxc

Sport climber
Ridgecrest
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 27, 2016 - 02:18pm PT
So the last few trips to the A-hills I have noticed some new routes in the corridors, and some corridors past the candy store have climbs as well. Does anyone know what the grades and or names of these climbs are?
Contractor

Boulder climber
CA
Apr 27, 2016 - 03:15pm PT
That place looks so cool. I stopped by on my way back from Tuolumne and the first boulder I touched, I sliced my finger on a quartz crystal.

Is there any rock there that isn't 30 grit?
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Apr 27, 2016 - 03:17pm PT
lol what a PILE.. but for the 5.6 thru 10b climber it's Disney Land.. 11 and up the Chisel comes out, holds are bloody painful, choss city. I have climbed many routes mostly 10+ and up and one 13a Mufusa! will not be going back.


Last time I was there, this drunk dude was rapping off this low angle slab 2 pitch deal from the second to the first, but the rope was stuck because he ran the rope directly thru the bolt hangers, he tried to swing over to a ledge on the right but popped off the end of his rope, fell 50+ feet to the dirt. His partner was stuck on top of the first pitch!! Rope stuck on the second. People were climbing all around these guys, no one came to help!!! The guy stuck at the anchor was SCREAMING for help, everyone just kept climbing, I was 300 yards away topping out and saw his fall, yelled down to my gal and said "I think I just saw a climber DIE" anyway we packed up and drove over to the accident scene, and stabilized the fall victim, very combative while death gurgles were emanating from his throat, It was unreal, called 911 as well, I could smell the nasty Alcohol on his breath, but the EMT said drinking may of caused the accident, but it also saved his life, due to being relaxed and limp when he fell. Also it's not the first accident i have witnessed at the A Hills.



Enough said
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
Apr 27, 2016 - 05:05pm PT
So then we wont be running into you there either. Splendid.
pile

Mountain climber
Kearsarge, CA
Apr 27, 2016 - 06:57pm PT
Garbage rock, crappy views, deranged locals running around drunk and stoned stealing water bowls.....

Dont waste yer time, go to the REAL eastside rock epicenter....BISHOP!
ORG and Pine Creek is nice! And the bouldering! Its great cuz its climbing but without the heavy rope thingy

Dont forget the Buttermilks! I heard Sharma climbed there !!!!!
herm

Trad climber
Bishop
Apr 27, 2016 - 07:20pm PT
Amazing story. Who knew there were two pitch routes in the Alabamas?
herm

Trad climber
Bishop
Apr 27, 2016 - 07:38pm PT
I see, it goes sideways.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Apr 27, 2016 - 07:40pm PT
The miniature golf of climbing.
Stewart Johnson

Mountain climber
lake forest
Apr 27, 2016 - 07:45pm PT
All the bolts are arranged in vertical rows!
Weird . A drive by for sure.
herm

Trad climber
Bishop
Apr 27, 2016 - 07:52pm PT
I think with a 70 metre rope you could prolly clip the first bolt on all the routes in the corridor. How cool would that be?
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Apr 27, 2016 - 08:54pm PT
The miniature golf of climbing.

Nice.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Apr 27, 2016 - 09:22pm PT
Prolly check mtn project
Contractor

Boulder climber
CA
Apr 27, 2016 - 09:26pm PT
Prolly need a re-sole after 2 pitches...
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Apr 27, 2016 - 09:58pm PT
Easy routes everywhere, mostly brings in the gym crowd and these i wanna climb but not seriously crowd! Easy access, no real skills needed for anchors, creates a false sense of security!
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Jun 13, 2016 - 11:16am PT
The hills blow! Why bother. Dirt roads and sharp crappy rock. For sure a choss pile! The local climbers are jerk too
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Jun 13, 2016 - 11:47am PT
Lives of the Cowboys on the tall wall is two pitch.

And this is the only brand new climb in the hills. Me on the FA in 2015
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jun 13, 2016 - 11:48am PT
suspicious post by Myles. I say we go investigate his claims. ;)

I bet there's even good granite just up the road TOO!


LOL
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Jun 13, 2016 - 01:36pm PT
Burch, over time I'm warming up to your sense of humor. That mummy thing was pretty funny.


Is this thread filled with "those are not the droids you are looking for" type of responses?


Cosmic, that was a picture of Gumby playing on bolders at the base of Lembert Dome.
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Jun 13, 2016 - 02:09pm PT
That's, The Shark's Fin Arete, and the FA wasn't put up in 2015.

Maybe you posted the wrong pic.
Your sarcasmometer is malfunctioning.

And the Lives of Cowboys thing was in response to this upthread a bit
Who knew there were two pitch routes in the Alabamas?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jun 13, 2016 - 04:18pm PT
Haters gunna hate
herm

Trad climber
Bishop
Jun 13, 2016 - 07:28pm PT
surfstar

climber
Santa Barbara, CA
Jun 13, 2016 - 08:45pm PT
AHills is awesome! Its one of those places where you get to take home parts of holds as souvenirs.
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Jun 13, 2016 - 11:04pm PT

Look at this choss some idiot bolted! It looks as if it will just fall over. Why bother? Put the bolts somewhere else.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jun 14, 2016 - 11:02am PT
That looks kind of cool
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jun 14, 2016 - 11:14am PT
TradHog

Trad climber
Yellow Rose of Texas

Jun 13, 2016 - 02:21pm PT
^^^^^^

This is why I will never go to the RetardHills. What a shitshow!



As someone posted up thread.....and I paraphrase: "..Splendid - we will be-able to enjoy ourselves"

guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jun 14, 2016 - 12:58pm PT
Tradhog has proven himself to be witty, relevant, and pleasant to be around!1!!! and not dumb1!!!!1


what do you mean... a troll who throws rocks? Burch even YOU have learned the value of a well placed LOL when trying to be funny. LOL :>)

jess saying
Killer K

Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
Jun 14, 2016 - 01:46pm PT
https://issuu.com/agrphoto/docs/cc15_w15_master_web_1a

It looks like a total choss pile.....
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Jun 14, 2016 - 05:42pm PT
Certainly some pretty sketchy stone there, but there are a bunch of really great, solid routes, too. Was over at Temple of Kali a couple of days ago--great stuff! The Loaf? Western Wall? Awesome. Get over on the Hanging Tree for a couple of 10c classics.

BAd
Capt.

climber
some eastside hovel
Jun 14, 2016 - 05:49pm PT
Been climbing at that joint since before there was even a guidebook. I always have fun there. Hate it?? Don't go there. It's real simple.
PS-I also have fun playin' putt-putt golf. ;-)
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Jun 14, 2016 - 09:50pm PT
Ahhhh chosspile. What a great way to describe it! I wonder what it's like beyond the road.

Locker you bring up a good a point. Just because some one can't dance to rhythm of the beat it is instantly rreferred to as a chosspile.

Interesting....
Locker hope your well... great times!
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Jun 14, 2016 - 10:19pm PT
Damn straight it is a chosspile! Come on by and drag me away from the new project. .. please eeee!

Classic dingus... we got turdpiles and chosspiles


dee ee

Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
Jun 14, 2016 - 10:29pm PT
Wow, the last time I climbed there we had a blast (in Sept.).

Now you all are gripping me up.

I guess, like most places, it is best to avoid crowded weekends.....and knuckleheads.

But, believe me...if I see someone take a "death
fall." I will be soon on the scene to help in any way possible.
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Jun 14, 2016 - 10:59pm PT
Life is good locker... don't be shy in these parts.
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Jun 14, 2016 - 11:06pm PT
When we were there last I never saw any human turdpiles, but Ashley's pup got in the habit of digging them up. We had to start doing a paw check before we let him in the van.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Jun 14, 2016 - 11:19pm PT
Belayer used an umbrella (not kidding).....
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Jun 14, 2016 - 11:29pm PT
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Jun 15, 2016 - 06:05am PT
Headed out for some fine choss this morning. Enjoy pounding them keyboards. I'm a chowing choss!

BAd
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Jun 15, 2016 - 07:53am PT
Tony..... Grinding some choss!

Bad climber you out there today or somewhere else?

Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Jun 15, 2016 - 08:54am PT
^^^^^^^^

Hey!!! That's my shovel!!!!
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jun 15, 2016 - 09:40am PT
Damn straight it is a chosspile! Come on by and drag me away from the new project. .. please eeee!


Did you get a Mortgage?

full time gig?

What Next?

KIDS???
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Jun 15, 2016 - 11:20am PT
love the hills. Seeing pictures on this forum from locker and blitzo years ago lit the flame. ;)

Congrats on the house Myles and Amy.
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Jun 15, 2016 - 11:30am PT
Yeah.... no more campground and hiding in the winters..... we have a mortgage! Never thought it. Would happen.... kids the day that happens you boys better watch out for the next crusher. .. not any time soon!

Been pretty dormant since we are doing a major remodel... Amy the painter and I the "Bob Villa". Cutting wood and getting fat!



Thanks Split
overwatch

climber
Arizona
Jun 15, 2016 - 11:39am PT
Are you standing on a hook? Hard to tell from the picture
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jun 15, 2016 - 12:15pm PT
Miles thats cool....

Now you get to get good at some new things.

Enjoy
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Jun 15, 2016 - 12:18pm PT
Yup it's a hook. And guyman... guess yur right
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Jun 15, 2016 - 04:22pm PT
Hey, Myles:

Back in Bishop now, but we had a great time in the Cattle Pocket--Magic Pig, The Slab, Fizz, and then over to Temple of Kali. Beautiful day--and windy as hell right now. We were okay in the Hills, which is why we went down there. All the other crags up here were forecast to have terrible winds. Good day was had.

Best of luck with your crib. Nice to see a young couple really investing in Lone Pine. It's a cool place--although running about 9 deg. F. warmer than Bishop today.

BAd
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Jun 15, 2016 - 11:13pm PT
Lacing up the dogs to send two pitches of mank.....Going old school without the aid (check the hammer). Can't rate it 'cause it gets harder every time. Soon there will be no route. Gonna challenge Moser to a choss off though I suspect he's trying for some semblance of quality while ours can easily qualify for "worst routes on the East Side" which would put them in the running for "worst routes worldwide". So we should win easily.....

Here's the kid learning the trade...... Not worth telling where they are 'cause there so dag....
And last but not least (and by far the worst of the lot)......
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Jun 15, 2016 - 11:28pm PT
Hey old goat! We be chossin' tomorrow. ... morning!



Bad... awesome you had fun. Thanks for the good outlook. Don't be shy in these parts. It's quite here but that doesn't mean it's small.

Tony... I'm looking forward to our date... Time dance amigo!
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Jun 15, 2016 - 11:38pm PT
Fo! Sho! Bro!.....Pulling Down! (and off the holds!) Gotta go to sleep! As a long standing member of the OFS, I need the rest to keep with the BAD mo fo that is yoursef!
LATER LEVELS......
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Jun 15, 2016 - 11:57pm PT
Oh man I forgot about this one... Tony watch till the end...[Click to View YouTube Video]

Good times Paulie
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Jun 16, 2016 - 12:15am PT
Keeping this at the top! See. The boys're adding some overhang to the show! Awesome! Maybe even get the Medusa to stop by on his way the kiddy pool nee Gorge.....now I gotta get some sleep....
Johnny K.

climber
Jun 16, 2016 - 07:24am PT
Ground up oatmeal sewer bolting!
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Jun 16, 2016 - 10:16am PT
I like that place!

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Days-of-Oatmeal-on-Cardboard-Alabama-Hills-TR/t11885n.html

I also love major house remodels! Congratulations on your new home, Myles and Amy! Make sure to put a couple of before and after pics in the "Show us what you're building" thread.

Phyl
pud

climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
Jun 16, 2016 - 01:16pm PT
Garbage rock, crappy views

wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Jun 16, 2016 - 04:17pm PT
Richard.....what makes you think I use a drill?
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Jun 16, 2016 - 06:07pm PT
Well, I, like Pud, always dug the viewcrumbling rock, gear ripping out
sure there is lots of that there is lots of good climbing too.( if you know what to do )
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Jun 16, 2016 - 08:11pm PT
Hey Geronimo. .. you place bolts with your fist?


Knar!
F10

Trad climber
Bishop
Jun 16, 2016 - 08:55pm PT
The Alabama Hills are an ok place. There's some great rock and not so great rock. I remember it being called a poor man's JT. There were very few routes in the area years ago. You just have to figure out where the better areas are. I always have a good time when I go there. It's a nice diversion from the Bishop area.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jun 23, 2016 - 12:52pm PT
Gomz ripping it up...

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jun 23, 2016 - 12:53pm PT
Crappy light conditions

cvcucr

Mountain climber
Riverside
Jun 23, 2016 - 01:59pm PT
crappy camping
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Jun 23, 2016 - 08:29pm PT
Hah. The "bivi" is on the Slab route. Night climbing working "Mustafa"--13 stout. Mr. E and I are going to replace the buttonheads on the 10a slab route, a A-Hills classic, if a bit chossy.

BAd
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Jun 23, 2016 - 10:09pm PT
Crazy how much they look alike.
Trock

Sport climber
Ojai, Ca.
Oct 30, 2016 - 05:43pm PT
Your right Myles, the Hills blows. Why bother? Chossy rock & crapy views.
Keep driving to the Bishop area. Keep up the good work Myles!
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Oct 30, 2016 - 08:51pm PT
New route over near The Deli? Rap anchors? We'll tap it!

BAd
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Oct 30, 2016 - 08:57pm PT
We cruised down there on Friday when the weather was bad in Bishop and had a fun afternoon.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Oct 30, 2016 - 11:14pm PT
Bad, where's the Deli?
rurprider

Trad climber
Mt. Rubidoux
Oct 30, 2016 - 11:24pm PT
The Deli is north of the Tall Wall. Follow the trail to the right from the Meat Loaf Cave.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Oct 31, 2016 - 01:02am PT
gracias
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Oct 31, 2016 - 06:08am PT
A fantastic new one we've done twice already: Run for the Hills
(Found it on Mtn. Proj.)


BAd
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Oct 31, 2016 - 07:39am PT
Should name it RUN FROM THE HILLS lolol.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Oct 31, 2016 - 09:06am PT
DMT, no need to have a poopy attitude.


When we going?
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Oct 31, 2016 - 09:23am PT
Wife's observation is that with the sheer volume of traffic in the Hills, they should put in some pit toidies.
Many Trees

climber
Nov 21, 2016 - 10:01pm PT
Many Trees

climber
Nov 21, 2016 - 10:10pm PT
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Nov 21, 2016 - 10:12pm PT
Muy nice
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Nov 21, 2016 - 11:04pm PT
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Nov 21, 2016 - 11:10pm PT
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Nov 21, 2016 - 11:16pm PT
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Nov 21, 2016 - 11:47pm PT
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Nov 21, 2016 - 11:49pm PT
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Nov 21, 2016 - 11:54pm PT
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Nov 22, 2016 - 12:03am PT
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Nov 22, 2016 - 11:58am PT
Burrito Bandito......what was that thing you snagged on the FAAAAAR left side of the Dinosaur Crack. Stout .11+ (quickly got downgraded by Amy! :)
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Nov 22, 2016 - 02:01pm PT
Delicious choss!


More pics please.


Wish I could head down this year.
Many Trees

climber
Nov 24, 2016 - 07:42pm PT

ß Î Ř T Ç H

Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
Nov 24, 2016 - 07:57pm PT
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Nov 25, 2016 - 01:17am PT
Hey... manytrees, I've been all over them Hills where's your's hidden?
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Nov 25, 2016 - 09:03am PT
Many......you keepin' that area DL? If that is just a tease, we're a11 itchin' for some foreplay! out there this weekend.

Myles -

Shouldn't you be working on a busted water heater? I'm telling Amy you're f*ckin' off, doin' laps on the Penis. :0
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Nov 25, 2016 - 10:33am PT
Busted on the burnt penis...
The Hills have eyes! 0
Many Trees

climber
Nov 26, 2016 - 03:33pm PT
A gentleman never tells...
but I'm a climber, so i should just show you.
I'm there Sun-Wed.
DL for now, still some more "Chossy" lines that need to go up, plus everything has a brutal 20-35 min approach.
Many Trees

climber
Nov 26, 2016 - 04:18pm PT
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Nov 26, 2016 - 08:33pm PT
Can't wait until you guys finish developing that new area! "The Blackening" looks great.

BAd
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Nov 26, 2016 - 10:18pm PT
Tis the season
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Nov 27, 2016 - 07:23am PT
Ahh Punters world.
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Nov 27, 2016 - 09:04am PT
Constine.... Jeffe...
How could it be a punters world.
Define?
Is a lack of climbs?
Poor rock?
Great access?
Beautiful views?
Lack of crowds?
Billions of square feet of vertical rock?
Killer training?

I'm confused?
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Nov 27, 2016 - 09:10am PT
Patiently waiting....

I call this place home...
rurprider

Trad climber
Mt. Rubidoux
Nov 27, 2016 - 09:14am PT
^^^^Too Funny^^^^
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Nov 27, 2016 - 09:15am PT
I spent two nights there over the past few months and was astonished and disgusted by the amount of poop and toilet paper laying around the easy camping/climbing spots. There should definitely be toilets installed and/or free wag bags. Based on the amount of traffic there I don't see how it can be self regulated and maintain a sanitary environment. People just keep finding new places to poop to avoid pooping on poop and it's leading to grid pooping to go along with the grid bolting. I may not support all the bolting but I can tolerate it, the poo not so much. Sorry for the rant...just in a poopey mood about such a cool place being soiled.
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Nov 27, 2016 - 09:16am PT
Thank you burchy
+1 for a toilet. .. but BLM wouldn't pull the trigger. .. hate to break it to you though most of the poop is from the climbers! Not the RVers

How much paper did you pick up to help?
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Nov 27, 2016 - 12:09pm PT
I pick up a lot of TP there. Dopes are too dopey to think about packing it out. Bury the poop; pack out the paper. Too easy. I always have a trowel and plastic bag for the business. The soil is really sandy and easy to dig--a perfect cat box. Leave NO trace, people!

I'm wit ya, Myles. Long live the Hills!

BAd
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Nov 27, 2016 - 01:33pm PT
The toilet seat is classic. Add some footrests and cruise down Sunset Blvd using that baby. Or maybe a special addition to Mule Daze.
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Nov 28, 2016 - 08:18am PT
Someone is calling you out, Jeff!

"PUNT THIS, 'CONSTINE-LY WHINING'!"

mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Nov 28, 2016 - 08:19am PT
1st Down and Goal....

Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Nov 28, 2016 - 10:13am PT
The Portal in storm. Nice, Mooch.

BAd
rbolton

Social climber
The home for...
Nov 28, 2016 - 10:18am PT
Myles,

I think Jeff may be experiencing a bad case of choss envy. You know, when another mans choss is bigger and better. It's tough living with inadequate choss.
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Nov 28, 2016 - 11:38pm PT
Chossssssssssss! I forgot...

The place Sucks! "A poor man's Joshua Tree".....
Keep going... it's one stop light, grumpy coffee,lousy service at most of the restaurants and the wifi on main street is spotty.
I need more...
I'm going to the Happy place.
Bolton.. you are correct my good Sir:)

Where's the Chicken for some saucy input on the chossy?
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Nov 29, 2016 - 07:20am PT
Wait.....you forgot about "Don't Crush The Brush!" disrupts his 'bumper belay'. Pass the Peet's Quad Latte', non-fat, no room, 180, with a single pump of Crčme Brulee'.
Johnny K.

climber
Nov 29, 2016 - 08:20am PT
Even a sewer has it's beauty one way or another, it's in the choss eye of the beholder. ;)
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Nov 29, 2016 - 10:11am PT
Yeah, Myles, what the hell is it with the "grumpy coffee" there in LP? I've actually stopped going because of the nasty tood in that place. I bring stove and coffee gear for my ritual brew before going home. I miss the cool, sweet vibe of the old place. If I had Trump bucks, I'd open a coffee house down the street and endow it with a trust fund so it wouldn't matter whether it made a profit or not. LP needs a chill hang!

BAd
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Nov 29, 2016 - 10:25am PT
Nice work, I have looked at that White Trash thing before.... figured it would kick my ass.

Looking forward to this season and doing some new stuff.

Grumpy Coffee... hahahaha, yes- last time I went in that place I was shocked at the attitude, who owes that place? How can one be not happy looking at those mountains every morning?

But at least there is a great old-time climbing store with wonderful people running the place.

Thanks for posting.... anyplace to get some beta for these new climbs???

Oh to add.... Matt, do what I do and bring a shovel, gloves and a big ass plastic bag... find the sh#t, dig a hole, toss the sh#t into it and toss the TP into the plastic bag.... and take time to educate any newish climbers you find out there about the desert, how to camp and how to take care of one of the rare remaining non-regulated spots we have.

Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Nov 29, 2016 - 10:43am PT
Oh to add.... Matt, do what I do and bring a shovel, gloves and a big ass plastic bag

Better put a keeper chain on that shovel...
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Nov 29, 2016 - 10:44am PT
Hey, Burchey, thanks for the post. I went on there and added my own One-star review. What a dump.

BAd
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Nov 29, 2016 - 01:49pm PT
LP needs a chill hang!

Yah, its own brew haus! Ditch that weak a$$ BBQ next to the Puke-Up Factory and replace it with 'The Portal Brew Craft Co.' (aka Choss City Suds)
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Nov 29, 2016 - 03:36pm PT
I have thought about a NANO brewery..... they have the prefect street to put it on .. "Brewery st."


and X15X15 .... Seems to me you don't get out to some of the climbing towns anymore. Right now Bishop is jam packed with climbers from all over the globe, some on 30 day vacations. Many rent a motel room or a home for the entire stay. Lots of folks dirtbag still but I am really surprised at the sheer volume of climbers... walk into Vons at 10:30 at nite you will see what I mean.

Lone Pine is some what different, my co-workers climbed Mt. Whitney last summer, they stayed at a Motel for two nites, ate a bunch of meals in Lone Pine and bought some down clothing, a sleeping bag and a better back pack at Elevations.

I think the old view that climbers do not have coin is dead wrong in 2016.

steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Nov 29, 2016 - 03:55pm PT
Better put a keeper chain on that shovel

And the dog bowl!!
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Nov 29, 2016 - 04:34pm PT
35 foot 5.12 lol. walked it, 11d.
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Nov 29, 2016 - 05:31pm PT
Burchy, Or Jtree 10d lol.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Nov 29, 2016 - 06:58pm PT
That's Crabby Coffee by the way....Myles does manage to get a half smile out of Mike the Sikh at the Mobil.......there are good spots though....We'll let you guess from the photos just like the climbs we all don't want to share.
edit: I love watching the hubby play online poker while his wife brow beats you for ordering a breakfest sando....Lone Pine reminds me of where I grew up....Bolinas. The original town that hates to serve you. I love it though.....
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Nov 29, 2016 - 10:28pm PT
AHaha... Jeff! You do like the Hills! Don't you... very sneaky!;)

And boys.....

Guyman as far as new stuff just wander into random corridors it's all hiding

Jonny... you read the story!
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Nov 30, 2016 - 06:29am PT
From the Mount Whitney Restaurant

mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Dec 13, 2016 - 09:24am PT
Pinging Mr. Moser! What are you and the Misses doing for Santa's Birthday? Hopefully not sending a canned ham to Connie The Blue Hair. Boring.

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Dec 13, 2016 - 04:49pm PT
What do want? Mr. DALEY

Ohhhh... I now get it cryptic!
Many Trees

climber
Mar 12, 2017 - 03:30pm PT
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Mar 12, 2017 - 09:53pm PT
That thing is pretty cool looking.
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Mar 21, 2017 - 01:45am PT
I know where that's at.... Muy Nice boys!
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Mar 21, 2017 - 06:41am PT
There's a lot still to be done in the 'Bamas if you're into some epic scrambles. I could see some sort of "via ferrata" style approaches to some of those high walls. Crazy tower, meng.

BAd
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Mar 23, 2017 - 07:53pm PT
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Mar 24, 2017 - 06:41am PT
Lone Pine just wouldn't be the same without it's surly service-workers. It took about two years- but I finally got that woman at the coffee shop to crack a smile and stop scowling in disdain every time we walk in the door. She only delays about 1 minute pretending to be too busy to take an order rather than the 5 she used to. I think she's warming up to me.:)



wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Apr 21, 2017 - 05:33pm PT
Petch

Gym climber
knapsack crack
Apr 26, 2017 - 10:39am PT
Put this one up a couple of weeks ago.
"Once you go poodle you don't go back". 5.10 9 bolts to a two bolt anchor. 90 feet. Optional 3" piece before first bolt. Located to the right of Lost eye to the moon and just right of the roof crack "Hungoverhang"

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Apr 26, 2017 - 11:27am PT
nice!
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Apr 26, 2017 - 12:54pm PT
Cool, Petch. We'll check it out!

BAd
mooch

Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
Apr 26, 2017 - 02:36pm PT
OT.....you coming to K-Ville on the 2oth, Bad?
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Apr 26, 2017 - 04:06pm PT
the "2oth"? Huh? Boy, haven't climbed in Kernville in a while. I'm currently in the throes of moving to Bishop and wrapping up my career, so most of my time is spent on that--at least for the next few weeks.

BAd
telemon01

Trad climber
Montana
Apr 26, 2017 - 04:35pm PT

Climbed here a few weeks ago when the weather was a little rough for skiing. What a place!
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Apr 27, 2017 - 06:09am PT
Oh, great shot, Telemon01! Thanks. I'll be driving by today on the way to Bishop.

BAd
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
May 21, 2017 - 06:00am PT
Okay, here's a new one that I can't find on Mtn. Proj. It's between Southern Blond and the Candy Store with a brief scramble up into the rocks. The climb starts above a cave/slot, but we started in there with a stick clip from a stem. You could start above, too, but don't blow the first clip--serious splatter. I'm thinking 10a/b for a taller person with three distinct cruxes, maybe 10c for shorter climbers--i.e. Mz. BAd Klimber. Any intel on this one?


BAd

PS: It's a pretty good route. Go do it!
Petch

Gym climber
knapsack crack
Apr 24, 2018 - 05:39pm PT
Here’s another one we did this last weekend.


Left route is “Once you go poodle you don’t go back “. I originally thought it was 10b/c but after climbing it again, closer to 10a.

The new one to the right is “Strawbillie Poodles Forever”. Steep climbing with positive holds. Probably 10b. 7 bolts and a couple of cams. I used a red alien and a 2 Camalot. 2 bolt anchor and around 80 feet tall
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Apr 24, 2018 - 09:47pm PT
I bolted a cave last year. Came back and someone stole the first three draws then left a biner. You would think anyone that wants to climb a horizontal ceiling would understand why they are there. If you your were strong enough to get as far as that person did why rob the route?

Banana into your pocket 12c tall wall area

Booty is my game.... free gear bring it on! Stealing from something over your head...?
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Apr 24, 2018 - 09:55pm PT
Probably hippies.... yep... some of them there G'damn hippies...
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 25, 2018 - 09:19am PT
I have always enjoyed a spring trip to get the season started. This year we had quite a crew with a proper TR coming soon from Micronut. 5 of us were celebrating turning 45 this year so many of the names of the new routes are according.

I had been scouting around and found a cool hallway with potential. Head up a small narrow gully on the left side of Rama-Lama-Ding-Dong on Elephant Rock and enjoy a nice shaded hallway. It only gets about 45min of sun per day. We called it Birthday Wall. Macronut and Andrew got to another wall behind Birthday, 45 Wall and a couple cracks went on those. Fun all around.

The far left line on 45 Wall Adam called Auburn Line instead of Life Line.

The TR to the right of the bolted arete was first called Freddy Gone Wrong but Paul Amico changed the name to Pokin & Chokin(Aka: Freddy Gone Wrong). Funny if you know Freddy.



The hallway is about 15'-20' below what you can see in the picture. The is a hole squeeze on the one of the cracks Joe put up, some couldn't fit.....
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Apr 25, 2018 - 10:59am PT
The birthday wall is originally a R. Collins Solo for his birthday
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Apr 25, 2018 - 12:04pm PT
what's a shunt? Do you mean a 'cold shut'? or a version of a cold shut?
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Apr 25, 2018 - 01:02pm PT
I was there last weekend too... with Banny. We did a bunch of climbs- it was good fun.

I wish I had seen these recent updates.

I always run into older climbers- must be something about the place. We ran into Windy White...and Rob.. we started trying to figure out who we all were back in the day... when she said she dated Dick Silly it all came back to me.

Grannies and Grandpas on the rocks - who could have ever imagined this climbing thing producing a bunch of old active climbers.

mooch

Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
Apr 25, 2018 - 01:04pm PT
The birthday wall is originally a R. Collins Solo for his birthday

Concur. Marty has the gouge and will be putting Raleigh's lines in the next guide. You'll have to work a wee-bit harder and head up higher to find the goods.
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Apr 25, 2018 - 01:35pm PT
This was another new one we did recently--on Chocolate Turkey Tower. Fun and delicate. Very few positive edges and generally good rock.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/114053672/dont-scrape-your-giblets

BAd
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 25, 2018 - 02:33pm PT
Either way they were good fun and it looks like the name was in the ball park, hahaha. Any idea which line/s he did, there were 6 on Birthday?

When is this guide book coming?

Munge, I call those clip into anchors shunts (for whatever reason).
mooch

Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
Apr 26, 2018 - 07:50am PT
Glad you enjoyed that route on Chocolate Turkey Tower, BAd. Munge, Steve Gomez and myself put up a few others thereafter, including this one over by Arizona Tower ("Arizona Dome" in the old Stausmann guide).....

'Sh*t Howdy' (5.9), Horse Apple Tower

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/114056109/sh#t-howdy
dee ee

Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
Apr 26, 2018 - 05:40pm PT
I'm glad to hear that some of you (ahem) won't be there!
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Apr 26, 2018 - 08:22pm PT
Thanks, Mooch. I thought I espied some bolts over there last time I was at AZ Tower. I'll get on 'em. Short, but the rock looks really good.

BAd
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Apr 26, 2018 - 11:53pm PT
Thx for doing the updates Mooch.

Stoked someone got on the ChocoTurkeyTower!


Choss4lyfe!
mooch

Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
Apr 27, 2018 - 10:06am PT
Yah Mungie, I finally got around to adding them a few months back.

I was there last weekend too... with Banny.

Loomey said he and Elliot ran into you and Banny over at Cactus Flats. Heard bloody's were being served. Nice!
Guangzhou

Trad climber
Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
Apr 30, 2018 - 12:23pm PT
What's it like in June?

I have a young daughter, looking for child friendly crags for an extended summer road trip.
Manimal

climber
SLT, Ca
Apr 30, 2018 - 12:34pm PT
Unfortunately it has become as popular with the RV community as climbers. Was there for the first time in a decade a couple weeks ago and was blown away by the number of campers out there. Some RV's right at the base of climbs and the people were annoyed when climbers came into "their" camp to climb. I was of the mind that it was looked down upon to camp in the Hills. The BLM guy doing rounds out there was straight up depressed about the outlook for this place. All in all, it's still a beautiful hang and that's what you get in the front country these days. "only gonna get worse" - BLM guy
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Apr 30, 2018 - 01:13pm PT
For June, you'll want to only climb in the morning and evening. But a great place for kids.

The camping/rv situation is getting sad. I used to always go to Tuttle Creek to camp to respect the no camping request. But got continually discouraged from seeing everyone else camp in the hills. It is really convenient with a popup camper to not have to collapse and drive to climb each day. ;)

So I starting finding out of the way/out of view sites, but now even those are usually taken. I guess I'm part of the problem now.

Will there be a ban in the future?
cavemonkey

Ice climber
ak
Apr 30, 2018 - 11:08pm PT
Our world will shrink
No surprise
Glad there is still another quiet place to go for our generation

Never been
But looks like a wonderland of dummy domes
RURP_Belay

Big Wall climber
Bitter end of a bad anchor
May 1, 2018 - 07:12am PT
My guess is a couple of years Alabama Hills will become the same kind of BLM sh1tshow that New Jack City was before the renovation and full-time host:

RVers making encampments everywhere

Off-roaders tearing up every available patch of sand

Transients setting up temporary housing

TP & trash everywhere, with that particular smell of partially buried human waste - due to lack of facilities.

The only hope I can see is that because it is so close to a town (unlike New Jack), the BLM may make steps towards correcting this earlier rather than later.
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
May 1, 2018 - 07:38am PT
Rurp et al. are correct. It's crazy now on weekends. We made the mistake of going there on a weekend recently. We got there early in the day on Friday, and we were damn lucky to find a camping spot. Virtually every spot we could think of or access with our trailer was taken, including way up at the Oz parking area, which was rarely occupied. But, to be fair, and this seems true of New Jack as well, this increased traffic has led to better stewardship and an overall improvement of conditions. Hard to believe, but true. I've been going to the Hills for well over a decade, and in the early days, the piles of broken glass, doodoo papers, etc. were pretty bad. I've always made a strong effort to clean up, including, yep, other people's used doodoo papers, broken glass, cans, bottles, and once, over at Whitney Cave, a phreakin' TV! Some jackass and dumped it. Gah.

The cause is pretty clear, I think: The Internet. With massive posting on social media and other websites, these once obscure areas get HAMMERED. Gotta get my Instagram hit, yo. Interestingly, we met a really nice young newbie couple from LA. The woman was especially stoked on how low key the weekend was! She and her man had gotten a spot at Tuttle Creek, which, unlike Josh, actually had camping spaces available. My wife and I were astonished and a bit bummed at the crowds, and, yep, we were part of them. On the other side, everyone was really nice, and the climbing is so spread out, we never had to deal with crowding at the actual crags. Of course, we stayed far away from Tall Wall and Hoogie Wall. Once you step into the 5.10 range, crowds thin out quite a bit, too. In the future, I'll be avoiding weekends. I think the nice spring weather definitely increases the issues, too.

BAd
Greg Barnes

climber
May 1, 2018 - 10:37am PT
Hopefully people are still picking up glass and the little dull grey "rocks" at the base of the walls (yep, lead bullets), it really does clean things up over time.

Still remember a rather large woman sitting next to the parking for Great Falls Basin, painstakingly sifting through the sand and pulling out shards of glass. She was a Trona local and said she felt responsible for all the glass bottles they had broken and shot up there when she was a teenager!
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
May 1, 2018 - 11:50am PT
Quite a story, Greg. The graffiti was bad there, too. Horesman's Center outside of Apple Valley is totally ruined, just trashed. I've had a lot of good times there, but I can't bring myself to return. We go to Fairview instead.

BAd
Nanobody

Trad climber
Fresno, CA
May 1, 2018 - 12:59pm PT
I usually go to the Hills exclusively in the winter months. In my experience its pretty quiet at that time, just a handful of climbers, and few RV types.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
May 1, 2018 - 05:23pm PT
Go when the temps dip into 30s at night and you’ll be in good company!
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bishop
May 1, 2018 - 06:08pm PT
Rumor has it that the Hills will be closed to camping in the near future. Being loved to death. Was like JT back in the day but getting crowded. But still fun. Moser and I were cruising around lookin' at stuff with all day winter sun and saw a wall. Went over and threw up a moderate on it. Looked around and found dozens of pairs of shrunken women's shoes....
So we named the place "Old Soles Wall". Gang came back for a great fun day of putting up routes from 5.8 to 5.12. Find the shoes and you'll find the routes....
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
May 1, 2018 - 06:26pm PT
Old soles Wall!
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bishop
May 1, 2018 - 07:23pm PT
Vids from the gang having fun "developing" choss on "The Old Soles". I think this was the Moses' Bday.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
The Mose going for the onsite......
[Click to View YouTube Video]
The Kid going old school on the "Old Soles"
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Overview of fun......
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Andrew Soleman on-siting the aptly named "Soleman" on the "Old Soles"
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
May 2, 2018 - 06:46am PT
It was Andrew soleman. Tony ! See you are getting old
RURP_Belay

Big Wall climber
Bitter end of a bad anchor
May 2, 2018 - 07:26am PT
You do know power drills are OK at A-Hills, right?
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bishop
May 2, 2018 - 07:28am PT
There.....all fixed. Sorry Chris!........
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bishop
May 2, 2018 - 07:31am PT
And Power? Soul Killer......Gotta keep the soul on the Old Soles.....
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
May 2, 2018 - 07:40am PT
Given how crazy it was on the weekend my wife and I were there, it wouldn't surprise me if camping got nixed. It would be a shame. It was a lot like Josh, though, with folks coming in really late and driving all over the place, blasting headlights into your camp, hunting for a spot. Pretty sucky. If a closure does occur, Tuttle Creek campground will be totally packed on weekends, and folks will have to hunt for alternate accommodations. Once again, in my lifetime, I will see the closing of another great American climbing hang: I saw Josh get locked down, Camp 4 in the off season, bivi spots around Canmore, Alberta, and elsewhere along the Icefields Parkway. I feel for the new generation of climbers who won't get to experience these places the way we did. Folks will have to get more adventurous and develop camping and crags in the wilds of Nevada, as seen elsewhere on this board. RIP, Alabama Hills.

BAd
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
May 2, 2018 - 07:48am PT
Bad... I do not see camping as a problem at all. To me it seems like most campers ar not climbers. Most are the RV trailer type... and with ample FREE spots who can blame them.

Last time I was there- 2 weeks ago- it was pretty quiet.

wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bishop
May 2, 2018 - 08:44am PT

One could argue that Hollywood gets unlimited access as they pay millions (that's the rumor) to the BLM to do whatever in the Hills and we should be able to do the same. But I would rather see it closed to camping then having to deal with the harried weekend warrior set. Like Bad said, shame the next gen wont see it and I used to be one but gave up the coast for the lifestyle. Plenty of great free camping nearby and worth the trade off of tp and camping mobs at the base....
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
May 2, 2018 - 10:26am PT
Yeah, Guyman, we'll see. If the Hills do get closed to camping, it will be interesting to see how it plays out. At least with the RV set--and since I now have a fully functional small trailer, I'm one--the impacts are very mild--no TP or doodoo dumps, trash carried out, etc. The RV crowd is generally quiet and respectful, in my experience, anyway. Although I HATE generators. They are Satan's crap.

BAd
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
May 2, 2018 - 11:53am PT
All generators should have a built in clock so they shut down at 9:00 PM and cant be re started until 8:00 AM
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
May 2, 2018 - 01:57pm PT
Armpit of the Sierras.
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
May 2, 2018 - 04:29pm PT
back on topic -
there is an easy 4-5 bolt climb on nice patina plates 100 feet or so east of the Walnut.

Kinda fun, kinda armpitty. ;)
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bishop
May 2, 2018 - 06:35pm PT
Ya Splitclimber! Back on track! Sorry I had a hand in the serious.....Back to the Choss!
Here's the Rossevator casually (beer just out of site) starting ......something. I think this was on Moser's Bday as well.
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
May 2, 2018 - 11:28pm PT
The dike! Tones
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
May 3, 2018 - 06:31am PT
Great drillin' styleeeee. Long live the choss.

BAd
mooch

Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
May 3, 2018 - 07:42am PT
Onsighted? Previews and milking the TR up to the crux......Redpoint send. ;)

Once you step into the 5.10 range, crowds thin out quite a bit, too.

Yah, you can chase the shadows pretty well. Always thought the Western Wall was ideal for slimming out the crowds and staying cool.

And, "John-stine"......your spew is all over your bib.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Cali
May 3, 2018 - 11:55am PT
Whitney Cave really thins the crowd out. And if there is anyone there just step around the corner to the 5.11 slab routes and you will be all alone. And you will be on some of the best routes and rock in the whole place.
rbolton

Social climber
The home.
May 3, 2018 - 01:32pm PT
Wow. Quite an interesting obsession with armpits, Constine. Or did you just sit on your saggy old ball bag again? I hear that can make a fella cranky.
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
May 3, 2018 - 05:08pm PT
Western Wall is soooooo bitchin'. And I don't think I've ever seen anyone on the Hangin' Tree--those two 10's are fantastic.

BAd
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bishop
May 12, 2018 - 05:40pm PT
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