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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 1, 2016 - 08:00am PT
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Most of us have heard about localism in surfing. I was wondering is anyone has ever experienced localism in climbing? I was reading in Surfline about the 'Lunada Bay Boys' getting sued over the whole localism deal and it occurred to me that I never ran into localism at the crags. As a matter of fact, I've never run into any overt localism in the surf, either. And I've surfed many places that are known to be localized.
I heard about an incident once at an AZ climbing area, third hand; so who knows how accurate that is... Maybe Steelmonkey was beating up someone :)
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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I have only experienced it at the OWs at Planet Granite Sunnyvale. I hope they all get staph infections.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Surfing is a source swear to god it saved my life!
Back off Warchild..
Climbers and localism equates to some drum circle..
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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There have been times when I wished there was a bit of localism in climbing.
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WBraun
climber
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In the 80's Yosemite had heavy climbing localism .......
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Werner is a local, so is Todd Gordon....most other "locals" are people who move to an area and assume "local status" before they need their next haircut. It's the latter who cop the locals attitude.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I been a Wolf City local since 1965, no mater where I lived.
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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I believe there is a difference between localism and reinforcing ethics.
All too often people who cry about localism are really just butt hurt about being informed of the local ethic. Which need not be aggro.
Reinforcing the ethics of a location- which may be as simple and straightforward as pick up your sh#t when you leave - is not localism but often is left to the locals to police.
If we were to equate localism with surfing then you would see locals walking up and starting a route you are standing at the base of ready to climb.
I doubt that happens very often climbing and perhaps I'm unique but I can assure you it never happened to me either climbing or in the water. And short of Lunada Bay, I surfed some of the most localized water in SoCal.
Correction: I guess it did happen a couple of times surfing but was worked out onsite. Maybe that's the way to handle it climbing. Dunno.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Currently LOCALISM is heavy at MALIBU..
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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I surfed some of the most localized water in SoCal.
Really?
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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I doubt that happens very often climbing and perhaps I'm unique but I can assure you it never happened to me either climbing or in the water.
Cuz you're badass...apparently...you definitely have no lack of opinion
Edit;
that is right it is my opinion that you love to give everyone your opinion and it is usually topped by a heavy helping of how badass you are
Edit ll; to avoid bumping this Dopey thread
I stopped being concerned about how big someone is long ago when I learned the truth
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Golf locals are the ABSOLUTE WORST!!!!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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I agree with some of what enscopeta wrote.
but
If we were to equate localism with surfing then you would see locals walking up and starting a route you are standing at the base of ready to climb.
Those would be the nice locals.
sick avatar pic btw.
no wonder you're involved in so many circle jerks here lol!
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Really?
Yep. Really.
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Cuz you're badass...apparently...you definitely have no lack of opinion
You of all people need to reacquaint yourself with the definition of the word - OPINION.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Escopeda- I'd be curious to get some insight on what you're doing that set's you apart.
What type of board do you ride? What's your skill level? If you were a tree...
Just kidding, but I do need some imagery so I can call you out proper.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Pyro- It is!
I was out on a big day at the top of the point while my wife wife was surfing a contest there. I was suprised at how bad the hassling was. Especially since it was done mostly by beaver-tail wearing kooks riding fish's.
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Contractor, I'm not sure what you are asking for. But I'm not sure what difference it makes. If you want to say I'm full of sh#t, knock yourself out, it matters not at all to me.
But this incessant attempt to equate surfing to climbing, including trying to apply some kind of 'locals only' inspiration to climbing seems like another stretch.
Granted, I wasn't around in the valley in the peak timeframe that Tami and Werner talk about but how many people caught actual beat downs for climbing in a certain place? I mean a real proper square-up beat down? Many? Any?
Is it happening somewhere in a climbing location today? I bet not.
If the delicate sensitivities of some people on here are an indication of current climber interaction, then this concept of brazen localism is likely nothing more than locals not wanting to be friend-ed on FaceBook after meeting out at the crag. Oh the horror.
Climbing is climbing, surfing is surfing. How about we stop trying to appropriate things from one and assigning them to the other?
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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^^^^^currently googling "most localized spots in SoCal"
Edit: not you rincon ;-)
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Currently LOCALISM is heavy at MALIBU..
That made me chuckle. Thanks.
EDIT: Thanks for the reminisce about surfing. It will forever be the one thing I will miss. The surfing that is, not the people. No.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Escopeda-
You said that you don't get hassled. How is that? Your claim, not mine...
I've surfed all over the world and getting hassled is part of the game, if your actually catching waves, so I'm curious- what's your secret?
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Lurkingtard
climber
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Granted, I wasn't around in the valley in the peak timeframe that Tami and Werner talk about but how many people caught actual beat downs for climbing in a certain place? I mean a real proper square-up beat down? Many? Any?
No. They would just sh#t on your ropes.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Real localizer.. miki
Escopeta currently mobs of spring breakers are infesting the waters..the good thing is they sleep in by the time the crew is done the kooks are waking n baking..
Rincon hollywood by the sea is so rad..
Pyro- It is!
I was out on a big day at the top of the point while my wife wife was surfing a contest there. I was suprised at how bad the hassling was. Especially since it was done mostly by beaver-tail wearing kooks riding fish's.
LOL!
Contractor
nothing like waiting your turn and then they won't let you have any part of the set's coming in.. after a few years I've solicited the localize-rs and now they let me in.. took a while but that's okay.. one of my buddies has been surfing the Bu for 40yrs it helps to know the localizers..
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Pyro- AL Sarlo is a nice guy! He gave me a few set waves that day (probably wanted to sell me a house) LOL. Do you know Mark Biez?
Escopeda- I make my own boards- white with no logo, all black wetsuit, surf without a leash, never paddle straight to the peak, surf alone, stay off the shoulder, don't back paddle, share, I look like a Senator from Kansas, I don't kook out, and I still get hassled from time to time. You may look scary and be a big teddy bear- that's probably the best recipe for not getting hassled. My home break (Boca Rio, Imperial Beach) has quite the welcoming committee. I never get involved but sh#t goes down on a regular basis.
Climbing is riddled with grumpy old men, as seen here, but not heavy localism, that I've seen anyway. I do know some guys get pissed when their ongoing projects (bouldering areas, trails or routes) are promoted or revealed without consent.
Rick Cane trivia! The movie is loosely based on one of my surf buddies life story.
His family moved to my home town from Arizona- within 5 years he was the best local surfer by far. He went on to surf in the ASP, killed it on the North Shore and was dominating his age group in the NSSA up until a few years ago.
We did a boat trip to the Mentawais and the Australian's, who loved the movie "North Shore" were all over the Rick Cane story... "Hey mate- Rick Cane is surfing right over there!!
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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When I started climbing in 73, I surfed ALL the time. I quickly learned to climb on Saturday and surf on Sunday so that my fingers weren't soft from surfing. I quit surfing though after surfing for about 15 years. Two factors made me quit: first I was sick of the fricking locals, even when I was a local; and second the rock is always there where as the waves in SoCal aren't most of the time. Climbers are almost always really nice people, surfers aren't. I do think that if there were as few rocks as there are waves then climbers would be just like surfers.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2016 - 03:03pm PT
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I quit surfing though after surfing for about 15 years. Two factors made me quit: first I was sick of the fricking locals, even when I was a local; and second the rock is always there where as the waves in SoCal aren't most of the time. Climbers are almost always really nice people, surfers aren't. I do think that if there were as few rocks as there are waves then climbers would be just like surfers.
Nailed it.
Never experienced climbing localism probably because I've been a pretty mediocre climber for my entire life so I never threatened anyone's ego. I pick up extra trash at the crags, never bring a dog and have a generally quiet climbing/belaying style; I could never climb with the screamers or beta droppers.
Surfing, I'm quite competent as a waterman, understand the line-up and local conditions. I don't drop in, make sure I give waves, and make the most of my opportunities when I do get a wave. I don't paddle battle, I'll hoot folks other folks on and smile; smiling goes a long way.
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ecdh
climber
the east
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Waves are less predictable than rock or even ice, plus easier access usually. Basics of demand.
Walls can be a bit more tribal but not generally to the extent breaks can be.
Where i grew up 'if you dont live here dont surf here' was sprayed on the surf club for years. Ive not seen that degree of assholism in climbing. Even bouldering.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Burch- You're reading comprehension sucks. I wasn't describing a ninja, it's Lee Daniel's "The Butler".
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Haha, the places I surfed Alan Sarlo got his ass kicked. Lol.
Hollywood was decent, but I found the waves to be far superior just a stones throw away at Mandalay. Definitely the biggest (and heaviest) waves of the winter seemed to find there way to that sand bar. Since I'm goofy, it was about all there was aside from the rock at little Dume.
Contractor, surfers are like dogs apparently. They can smell fear. Ha.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Localism in surfing, vandalize their car.
Localism in climbing, sh#t on their ropes.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Escopeda- I surf Oxnard quite a bit. I can only put the beach breaks of Nothern Baja in that class in terms of beach breaks I can drive to. Bombing tubes and still a few cranky dudes around.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Try having AZ plates on the central coast.
Nothing a good bottom turn couldn't fix :-)
When I said I wouldn't mind a little localism in climbing....
Straight up dickish behavior for no reason, violence, vandalism, and aggression have no place in climbing imo.
But having some kind of enforcer to call people on their sh¡t when they're acting like barns sure would come in handy sometimes. Sometimes we, as climbers, are too nice and non confrontational.
Sometimes localism works.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Zonie plates jefe!
I'm sure you cruz low key so no offense.
We get over run every year by the Scottsdale crowd. Black Escalades with those gay rims that keep spinning at the red light, skinny blond kids sporting gangsta gear (probably made by Kanye West) and when they go "local" they wear boxers briefs under their board shorts. The mom's wear those $600 dollar, velour athletic suits that have words stamped across the ass. They have jumbo, bedazzled sunglasses, gold hula hoops for earrings and those cray high heal flip-flops. Sometimes they have small animals for an accessory. Zonies seem to bring out the worst in localism for some reason.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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I believe jefe's got a good bead on this topic. The 70's were kind of like the wild west, and where I surfed if you hopped the wrong guy you could expect to get a board up your a*# or in your back. It's generally more civilized now except for certain locals. My advise is unless you want to make a statement, just stay sway from those places surfing wise.
Don't see climbing being like this, but I'm not trying to make a statement :)
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Kind of curious why I got dragged into this...
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Escopeda- I surf Oxnard quite a bit. I can only put the beach breaks of Nothern Baja in that class in terms of beach breaks I can drive to. Bombing tubes and still a few cranky dudes around.
I didn't bother with Baja much in preference to the mainland. I had Mark Leon shape me a BigGun, which was every bit as Big Gunnish as a Hawaiian gun specifically for big Silver Strand and Mandalay.
I have been scared surfing rocky point and reef breaks plenty of times, but that was the only sand spit that scared me.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2016 - 06:23am PT
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Kind of curious why I got dragged into this...
Sorry, you're the only one aside from nature that I know about who climbs/lives in AZ. Just poking fun...
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2016 - 06:25am PT
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I've been scared at big Blacks.
Canyon sneaker sets have shivered me timbers
Was surfing Black's the first weekend in February with my 19 y.o. daughter (@ UCSD) and my 13 y.o. son. We got rolled by a canyon set. My son loved it. But we were way inside and it was just a growling wall of whitewater at that point. No impact zone for us.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Pyro- AL Sarlo is a nice guy! He gave me a few set waves that day (probably wanted to sell me a house) LOL. Do you know Mark Biez?
Contractor
Al sarlo seen him the other day I'll look out for Mark Biez.. the one guy I do know is Rocky McKenna
When I started climbing in 73, I surfed ALL the time. I quickly learned to climb on Saturday and surf on Sunday so that my fingers weren't soft from surfing. I quit surfing though after surfing for about 15 years. Two factors made me quit: first I was sick of the fricking locals, even when I was a local; and second the rock is always there where as the waves in SoCal aren't most of the time. Climbers are almost always really nice people, surfers aren't. I do think that if there were as few rocks as there are waves then climbers would be just like surfers. jan nice story
the solution to the surfers and the localism is to get to the break before they do.. I mean get to the break inside the water at 420AM.. usually on a good size day if you get in the water early you can pick up on some good rides then adios it before the first surfer dudes show up!.. Nite surfing is so much better and makes you a better surfer.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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This thread is witness to Surfing localism being more than a FIRST WORLD PROBLEM. It's a First world problem pursued by Californians.
I love Californians but why don't you all get a simple passport and travel beyond the Sierras ?
Fist fights over an indifferent oceanic wave pattern close to your CITY... LOL ! ! !
You don't surf internationally, do you Jim. But, in general I agree.
Edit; Pyro. Only time I've surfed the 'bu is at night with glow sticks. Lots of fun and nobody knows who anybody is for the most.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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This is a funny thread- but i can see it stacking up when you've got no place to run, climb or surf unless you're with 650 of your new best friends.
Back to climbing- the valley in the 80's wasn't real friendly-But most everywhere else I went was great.
We used to call the 20 name brand climbers "the heavies". But they isolated themselves and never got to meet a pretty interesting group of people. Anyone who is willing to travel a 1,000 miles or more to go climb has to has some serious flaws-and therefore they usually make for pretty good company.
Glad I never was cursed with ambition.
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