Mount Johnson

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Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 22, 2016 - 07:51am PT
Okay team, I'm trying to kick together a comprehensive list of people who have ever attempted new routes on Mount Johnson in Alaska's Ruth Gorge. I'm getting advised by Westman, Tackle, and Renny Jackson, but there are still a few missing, I think. Perhaps "the crowd" can help fill the gaps...

According to Renny, Mugs had made two attempts on Johnson's East Ridge prior to their 1990 attempt. Does anybody know with whom he made those tries? Steve Quinlan seems a likely candidate. (Does anybody have contact info for him?)

My current list:

Gary Bocarde and the three partners with whom he made the FA (1979, I believe):
C. Head
J. Lee
J. Thomas
(Anybody know the missing first names?)

East Ridge:
Jim McCarthy, Yvon Chouinard, Henry Barber, Rudi Hommburger

Mugs Stump
(Missing Mugs partners from two attempts prior to the one with Renny)
Renny Jackson

East Ridge and Elevator Shaft:
Doug Chabot

Elevator Shaft:
Jack Tackle
Charlie Sassara
Dave McGivern
Jim Sweeney
Dave Nyman
Kim Miller

North Face:
Andi Orgler
Michael Rutter
Klaus Gaiswinkler
Hannes Arch
Helmut Neswadba

East Ridge:
Mark Westman
Jeff Benowitz
Chris Turiano
Joe Puryear

Bob Ingle (?)

The Escalator:
Seth Shaw (Was Seth Shaw with Mugs on the East Ridge when he broke his leg?)
Tim Wagner

The Ladder Tube:
Fumitaka Ichimura
Yusuke Sato
Tatsuro Yamada

The Fire Escape:
Todd Tumalo
Josh Hoeschen

Stairway to Heaven:
Kevin Cooper
Ryan Jennings

A tough guy list if I've ever seen one.


Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2016 - 08:48am PT
Also, does anyone know for whom Mount Johnson is named?

I'm guessing it's a name left over from the Cook 1906 expedition, or else from the debunking/renaming trip of Belmore Browne and Hershel Parker in 1910.

This AAC document says the latter, but doesn't give a clue as to who Mr. Johnson might be...

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200608600/print

And I'm not entirely sure the peaks on the west side of the gorge WERE renamed...

Was Mr. Johnson some obscure turn of the century Ohio politician? (Tackle thinks possibly so, but wasn't sure.)
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2016 - 08:49am PT
Come on, Supertopo, the gauntlet is thrown... prove your worth.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2016 - 08:51am PT
Gary Bocarde, Charlie Head, John Lee, and Jon Thomas, courtesy of Mark Westman, via email, so that Q is covered. Thanks, Mark!
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
Feb 22, 2016 - 09:02am PT
New book, Greg? Slow down...I haven't finished China Wings yet.

According to the book, Decisions of the US Geographic Board, Mt. Johnson was named for the late Willard D. Johnson of the US Geological Survey, on the recommendation of the Sierra Club.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Feb 22, 2016 - 09:06am PT

Is this Johnson?? I was trying to pick it out as we flew by.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Feb 22, 2016 - 09:18am PT
Keith Royster/Stevens has Quinlan's contact info. Jay Kerr probably does too.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Feb 22, 2016 - 09:20am PT
Did Twight and his crew do something up there back when they were hitting hard in Alaska? Or was that Wake or Bradley maybe?

Amazing peak.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2016 - 09:22am PT
Crankster! Awesome. Much appreciated. Key piece of data.

Is that book online, or do you have a physical copy?
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2016 - 09:23am PT
Twight, House, and Blitz did The Gift That Keeps on Giving on Bradley, on the left edge of the South Face.
F

climber
away from the ground
Feb 22, 2016 - 09:31am PT
We made an attempt on the East Buttress. Made it about 10 pitches. Was in WAY over my head. What line! Pre Facebook, so it never happened.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2016 - 09:41am PT
F, can I have your name and your partners? Or are you pulling my leg?
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
Feb 22, 2016 - 10:17am PT
Greg,
I was in error - that was Mt. Johnson, CA I'll keep digging. Sorry!

Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2016 - 10:20am PT
Sh#t, Crankster, that's the wanker version of Mount Johnson. ;-)

Fresno and Inyo Counties are a long way from the Ruth Gorge.

David Roberts thinks it's likely a name left over from the Fred Cook expedition... I wish I could figure out who was this mysterious Mr. Johnson.
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
Feb 22, 2016 - 10:25am PT
Greg,

Now I'm on a mission...Talkeenta Ranger station looking it up and calling me back...will update.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2016 - 10:31am PT
Crankster! You're the man. Much appreciated.

Have them look for a map in Cook's To The Top of the Continent... That would ascertain whether it was Cook who named it. And perhaps the book has a clue as to who is this mysterious Mr. Johnson.
MarkWestman

Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
Feb 22, 2016 - 10:32am PT
I think Joe's article Greg has linked to above is probably correct that the naming of those peaks was largely made by the Belmore Browne/Herschel Parker expedition in 1910. It is also possible that some of the names were applied during Cook's 1906 trip into the Ruth.

I am fairly certain that only Dickey and Barrille are "officially" registered names with the USGS. Mount Grosvenor (the peak just south of Johnson) at one point was referred to as "Mt. Hudson" according to a map notation in the ranger station made by none other than Brad Washburn. Not sure if that might be for Cliff Hudson.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2016 - 10:35am PT
Mark, David Roberts thinks it might be Cook who assigned the names along the west side of the Gorge. If there were a map in the NPS copy of To the Top of the Continent it might give us another clue...
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Feb 22, 2016 - 10:36am PT
USGS is still a good bet. Go online to their archive office in Denver and search field notes and historical images of the area. Find out when they were in the area (usually around the turn of the century) Very often the location of interest was named for someone connected with the group.

Arne
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2016 - 10:37am PT
Actually, it's in the public domain and is digitally archived:

To the Top of the Continent

Now just need to flip through and find a map...

There's one on page 211, but it's not large enough scale. VERY cool map
MarkWestman

Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
Feb 22, 2016 - 10:37am PT
Talkeenta Ranger station looking it up and calling me back...will update

I'm not back in the office for a few weeks, but hopefully the guys who are there can help. I am the one who overhauled our library in recent years, I'm trying to think if I've seen this info in there or not- there are some lengthy Bradford Washburn texts in there which might reveal it. The other useful info might be Vin Hoeman's giant route database, which often lists naming origins and FA info.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2016 - 10:41am PT
Check that out, team. It links straight to the map. Cool

Look at this killer pic on p193

That's our baby
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
Feb 22, 2016 - 11:14am PT
Maureen at Denali Ranger Station in Talkeetna...best guess is that Dr. Cook likely named it for an expedition sponsor. It appears to be an unofficial name, not in the place names book.
She's looking into it and I'll let you know if she finds anything.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2016 - 11:33am PT
Thanks, Crankster... I think that's probably how it played out.

Be interesting to hear back from her. And AMAZING to me that those mountains might have no official names! Compared to named bumps in Iowa, those are pretty significant terrain features.
MarkWestman

Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
Feb 22, 2016 - 11:51am PT
Just talked with Roger Robinson- he also thinks it likely that Cook named these peaks after people who backed his expeditions.
Vin Hoeman's mapping records also indicated that Cook was the person who named them.
MarkWestman

Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
Feb 22, 2016 - 11:53am PT
We're trying to reach Dave Johnston and Brian Okonek also. If anyone knows it will be them.
Dolomite

climber
Anchorage
Feb 22, 2016 - 12:02pm PT
I can walk across the street and poke around the Vin Hoeman archives at the UAA Library, if anyone thinks the question may be answered therein.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2016 - 12:08pm PT
I appreciate everybody's efforts. Gonna be weird that one of the best pieces of alpine terrain in North America ends up being named for some douchbag in Ohio who doesn't deserve the naming of a bump in Iowa. (And no, we're not talking about Mt. McKinley, whatever that is.)
MarkWestman

Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
Feb 22, 2016 - 12:21pm PT
Dolomite- when I talked with the ranger station this morning Maureen read me the Vin Hoeman entry for Johnson- it referred to it as "Dr. Cook's 'Mt. Johnson'"

Somewhere Cook must have described his naming of these peaks.

Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Feb 22, 2016 - 12:45pm PT
Nice work all. Greg: I did a quick & dirty clean-up on the photo you posted a link to on pg 193.

To the top of the continent; discovery, exploration and adventure in sub-arctic Alaska. The first ascent of Mt. McKinley, 1903-1906
by Cook, Frederick Albert, 1865-1940
Published 1908



Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2016 - 01:21pm PT
Thanks, Fritz. Blows my mind to see a FA I would do 90 years later in a 1906 photo...
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Feb 22, 2016 - 07:22pm PT
Bump for Mount Johnson group synergy.

Wonderful to see how so many folks helped out on this thread.
F

climber
away from the ground
Feb 22, 2016 - 07:56pm PT
Greg, I sent you a PM with the info. Let me know if you got it.
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Feb 22, 2016 - 09:48pm PT
Come on, Supertopo, the gauntlet is thrown... prove your worth.

I laughed when I read this. You hang out here, right? You must know the scene.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 22, 2016 - 10:31pm PT
Combed through a bit of Cook literature...found a reference to a Henry Johnson but not sure that's it.

In Cook's "My Attainment of the Pole" he spends a bit of time on the McKinley climb. In the chapter titled "The Mt. McKinley Bribery" he writes:

The only reason given that I should have faked the climb of Mt. McKinley is that, in some vague way, I was to profit mightily by a successful report. The expedition was to have been financed by a rich Philadelphia sportsman. He did advance the greater portion of the sum required. We were to prepare a game trail for him. Something interfered, he relinquished his trip, and did not send the balance of the money promised.

I don't find any reference to a Johnson in Dunn's Shameless Dairy of an Explorer. Or Browne's Conquest of Mt. McKinley. Or in any of Cook's books.

Kinda gave thought to Iver Johnson, given the McKinley connection (yikes). Would have been a son that inherited the company but maybe one was a sportsman who gave Cook some funding (or firearms) for his trip(s). I don't think it was ever a Philadelphia company though.

Eldridge Johnson cofounder of Victor? Affluent, liked to hunt, lived in Philly. That might work.
Handjam Belay

Gym climber
expat from the truth
Feb 22, 2016 - 10:55pm PT
My best friend's magnus opum...the old Stairway to Heaven.
So sick. An alternate reality.
Chapeau Mt. Johnson.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2016 - 07:59am PT
Brian in SLC -- I think you're likely on the trail of the right guy with that line of inquiry... I'm still pretty astonished that we don't actually know who those west side of the Ruth peaks are named for... and that nobody seems to know. I'm sure the answer is out there lurking somewhere, perhaps in plain sight, but the NPS Denali NP people don't seem to know, and no obvious answer is presenting itself....
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2016 - 08:07am PT
I laughed when I read this. You hang out here, right? You must know the scene.

I try and avoid it as much as possible by steering clear of the politics and flame wars. Always amazes me to see how many people I've met and climbed with in the last thirty years show up here, however. My people, for better or worse. Annoyingly, there's a lot of worse. (And how'n the f*#k has it become thirty years?)

But I am pretty psyched with how much help I've received from "the crowd" so far on this thread.

I'll be even more psyched if we can get to the bottom of the big mystery--who is the namesake of this amazing peak?
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 23, 2016 - 08:09am PT
Is this what they mean by crowd sourcing, or is it clown sourcing in this case?
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2016 - 08:34am PT
I just emailed the AAC Library, so we'll see if they/it can reveal the answer to this burning question.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 23, 2016 - 09:29am PT
Some additional material from Cook:

http://www.frederickcooksociety.org/contact.htm

https://library.osu.edu/find/collections/byrd-polar-archives/cook/

In the reprint of To the Top of the Continent, the book contained excerpts from Cooks and Barrill's diaries. There's a sketch from Cook of the Ruth and a mention of peaks, but, he hadn't named anything on the sketch. My bet is the naming of the peaks occurred later and most likely to honor his sponsors.

Fun sleuthing!
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2016 - 09:54am PT
^^^ Thanks for the tip. I just emailed the curator of that collection to go with the one I sent to the AAC library this morning. We'll see if she can come up with an answer.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2016 - 12:28pm PT
Okay, it's starting to seem that Cook did the naming in 1906.

I've just received an email from Eric at the AAC Library saying that Johnson and Wake are named in a photo in a 1908 version of To The Top of The Continent.

(Which would make the AAC's own publication linked to near the top of this thread incorrect on this particular piece of esoteria.)

I've asked Eric to forward a photo or scan of the photo in question, and he said he'd dig further into the question of "Who are those guys?"
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2016 - 01:33pm PT
This just in, from Eric Rueth at the ACC Library, in the first edition (1908) of To the Top of the Continent:


Looks to me like the same photo as above, but with the peaks named. [Actually, the peaks are named in that other pic. Why didn't I see the significance of that? Frightening.]

Assuming this is a pre-1910 printing of the book, it settles the "who did the naming" question for me: Fred Cook.

Now we just need to figure out who are those guys?

[Eric Reuth just confirmed that the two copies of the book he examined were both published prior to 1910, so Belmore Browne is definitely out of the picture as a namer.]
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2016 - 02:08pm PT
And thanks to a tip from Laura Kissel, the Polar Curator at Ohio State University (and David Roberts, who pointed me there), I have a strong suspicion that Mount Bradley is named for John R. Bradley, who was such a major backer of Cook's 1907-1908 polar expedition that Cook sailed north in a schooner named John R. Bradley.

You can see a picture of the schooner here, on the right.

And if you're curious about Mr. Bradley, read the last paragraph here.

Turns out he was a rich casino operator from Florida.

Seems likely he also helped finance Cook's 1906 Alaska expedition.

OSU has the original of the photo we've been using; Ms. Kissel just sent me a low res scan.


So, 90 years after that photo was taken, I would meet Donini in Patagonia and he would enlist me to participate in a first ascent up the side of a peak in Alaska named for a Florida casino operator.

Can the world get more bizarre?

I can't wait to learn who Dickey, Wake, Johnson and Church are named for...

Ms. Kissel has promised to look into it.

Mount Grosvenor is likely named for this guy, Gilbert Hovey Grosvenor, first full-time editor of National Geographic Magazine.

(Which is not yet confirmed, but seems probable.)


Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 23, 2016 - 02:12pm PT
My money's on Wake being the same as the island.
MarkWestman

Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
Feb 23, 2016 - 02:52pm PT
Dickey was a gold prospector who gave the name McKinley to Denali in 1896.

http://www.billsherwonit.alaskawriters.com/book6.html
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2016 - 03:14pm PT
William A. Dickey. I'd guess he and Cook had some association.

Here's the article "Explorations in Alaska" in The New York Sun 1/24/1897, pp. 4, column 3.

(Looks like Sherwonit got the title slightly wrong, which is no big deal.)

And here's a screenshot of the section pertinent to the naming of McKinley...

MarkWestman

Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
Feb 23, 2016 - 03:18pm PT
And it really did used to be spelled "Sushitna".
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2016 - 03:22pm PT
^^^ It's Alaska, Mark. Anything is possible.

So along the western rampart of the Ruth we've got Barrill known (Ed Barill, Cook's companion); Dickey, Bradley, and Grosvenor probably identified; and Wake, Johnson, and Church still unknown.

We're making progress.
MarkWestman

Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
Feb 23, 2016 - 03:44pm PT
http://www.dioi.org/vols/w73.pdf

On page 16 of this document, paragraph G7: "Peak 7 is what Cook called Mount Dickey".

MarkWestman

Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
Feb 23, 2016 - 04:05pm PT
In the same PDF above, bottom right corner of page 7 of 33, photo caption:

"Cook named (l-r): Mount Church (8233'), Mount Grosvenor (8450), and Mount Johnson (8460), names evidently not now recognized by the USGS"
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2016 - 05:51pm PT
Posting for David Roberts, with his permission. He just chimed in via email:

"Do you have or know of Donald Orth's Dictionary of Alaska Place Names (1967, USGS)? It's a stupendous piece of scholarship. I've relied on it for all kinds of arcana, e. g., the name of Mt. Mausolus in the Revelations.
Dickey of course was the besotted Republican gold miner who named McKinley. But the naming of Mt. Dickey, according to Orth, is as follows: "Named in 1914 by Dora Keen [Handy] . . . ."
Handy as you know made the first ascent of East Blackburn with her husband, George Handy, in 1912. They thought it was the true summit, and claimed the first ascent of Blackburn. What she might have been doing anywhere near the Ruth Gorge, I have no idea. But in my experience, Orth is seldom wrong.
As for Grosvenor--I seriously wonder if Cook invoked the Nat Geo editor. NG was a principal sponsor of Robert Peary, Cook's nemesis. Unless he was trying preemptively to brownnose the Yellow Magazine, why would Cook have tipped his cap to Grosvenor?
My guess is that the Bradley lead gives the clue to the other names. Find the other benefactors of Cook, and you might well find the undeserving blokes who got some of our continent's most stunning peaks named after them.
--David"
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2016 - 06:02pm PT
^^^^ Interesting observation from Orth, David, that certainly adds to the confusion, but doesn't it seem unlikely that Cook would name the row of peaks just below Dickey and the peak above it but decide not to name Dickey itself?

(The photo published in 1908 that we've discussed above leaves little doubt that Cook did the naming in the Gorge below Dickey.)

As you well know, Dickey is a hard feature to ignore. I can't imagine Cook looking at it and then deciding, "Well, Ed, I'll name the next one after you, but let's just skip this big square looking thing. It's not worth a name, and it's certainly not worth yours."
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2016 - 06:05pm PT
As for Grosvenor, that is odd, but his is also an odd name.

I'll need some convincing to think it's not named for him.

Maybe it was a peace offering? Or a formidable piece of geographical brown nosing, as you suggest.

Cook wouldn't be the last climber in history to attempt to brown nose Old Yeller.

Although he might have been the first. :-)
MarkWestman

Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
Feb 23, 2016 - 06:11pm PT
Greg I don't have it in front of me but look in Fred Beckey's "Mount McKinley: Icy Crown of North America" and I know he has a bunch of early history including stuff about Dickey.

Also, if you find a copy of Washburn's "the Dishonorable Dr. Cook" that would likely have some relevant history of the Gorge exploration including stuff directly from Cook's diaries. That PDF I linked to above has a lot of good nuggets also.

I think I've heard of that Dora Handy. But I'd agree that it doesn't make sense that Cook would name all of the peaks in the gorge except the most massive one there. And I definitely sense that Wake and Johnson and Church must also be some sort of financiers for Cook.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2016 - 06:32pm PT
I just perused your PDF, Mark, and that certainly provides more evidence in support of the contention that Cook did the naming.

Of which I'm now convinced.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2016 - 09:38pm PT
This from Jack Tackle, via email, posted with his permission:

"So, read the thread.. reminds me that oral history is an important victim of the past. What I mean by that is this... I know both Brad and H Adams Carter told me the history behind the names in the Ruth-- and maybe it's because of the martini I just made, but more likely the f*#king jet lag I am dealing with- but I know both of them told me the history behind the names and I think Brad in particular knew the Johnson and Wake and Church background. For sure we can correlate Grosvenor..

So, I still hold out that Cook named Johnson but for whom it remains unclear to me right now...

More later- cheers, Jack"

NOTE: I agree with Jack. I've seen compelling evidence that Cook named Johnson. What we're missing is for whom he did it.

Bottoms up, buddy.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2016 - 07:54am PT
if you find a copy of Washburn's "the Dishonorable Dr. Cook" that would likely have some relevant history of the Gorge exploration including stuff directly from Cook's diaries.
Hot tip, Mark.

Anybody here have a copy and willing to scout it for Ruth Gorge naming?
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 24, 2016 - 08:56am PT
How did those guys get to the Gorge? Pretty sure Cliff didn't take 'em in.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2016 - 09:07am PT
^^^ They walked.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 24, 2016 - 09:40am PT
All the way up the Ruth? That's a hike and a half!

Dolomite

climber
Anchorage
Feb 24, 2016 - 09:40am PT
Yeah, I own The Dishonorable Dr. Cook and checked that it first thing. No answers. I have a call in to the UA Library reference desk.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2016 - 10:00am PT
I own The Dishonorable Dr. Cook and checked that it first thing. No answers.
Thanks for checking, Dolomite.
David Roberts

Mountain climber
Watertown, MA
Feb 24, 2016 - 10:24am PT
In Brad's and Peter Cherici's THE DISHONORABLE DR. COOK, there's considerably more detail about Bradley (p. 56). John R. Bradley owned a gambling house in Palm Beach that "was notorious for allowing women at the gaming tables." He started out as a faro dealer in New Orleans, always "staying one step ahead of the law," and got rich enough to "indulge his passion for big-game hunting." Cook met Bradley at the Arctic Club in 1905 and "suggested they hunt together for walrus and polar bear in the Arctic." Bradley later voted for Greenland.
Cook was deeply in debt after the 1906 expedition, and Bradley bailed him out with a check for $10,000. Nothing ever came of the hunt.
This makes it sound as though Bradley was a one-shot savior, rather than a member of a coterie of Cook backers. So less likely that Church, Wake, and Johnson could be found among some gang of benefactors?
Perhaps Cherici knows more? Contact him through Mountaineers Books?
I agree with Greg and Mark that it seems unlikely Cook skipped over Dickey in his naming binge. The same book reproduces Barrill's sketch map of the trip. Along the upper Ruth Gorge, on the west side, Barrill wrote (p. 66), "Eight Peaks drawn by me in my diary."
Jack's recollection that Brad or Ad Carter told him who the guys were is fascinating. Dredge it up, Jack!
Brad and Ad never told me--but I never thought to ask. Why in hell didn't I?
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2016 - 10:36am PT
David! Welcome! Great to have you aboard.

Mr. Bradley sounds like quite the story. Fat chance the USGS is ever going to officially append the name of a notorious faro dealer to the mountain.

If Cook was as crafty as I suspect, he may have been angling for Bradley's future support by naming a mountain in his "honor."
This makes it sound as though Bradley was a one-shot savior, rather than a member of a coterie of Cook backers. So less likely that Church, Wake, and Johnson could be found among some gang of benefactors?

I agree. If Cook finished his '06 expedition deep in hock, it seems less likely he already had a slew of deep-pocketed supporters.

Although perhaps he was casting a wide net of hopefuls? Bradley just happened to be the fish he landed...

Does The Dishonorable Doctor list sources for its John R. Bradley data?

And does anybody have contact info for Peter C?
Dolomite

climber
Anchorage
Feb 24, 2016 - 10:49am PT
Greg, the bibliography of The Dishonorable Dr. Cook is extensive and annotated. There is also a "Research Sources" at the end that directs one to the original Cook 1906 Diary at the Library of Congress. Did you try to contact anyone at the Dr Cook Society? My sense that it's kind of like a cult, but they could be useful.

David Stevenson
David Roberts

Mountain climber
Watertown, MA
Feb 24, 2016 - 10:58am PT
Aha! In the 1956 AAJ, Brad's article covers the first ascent of Mount Dickey, which he made on April 9, 1955, with David Fisher. Brad says that the objective of his team, besides mapping and exploring the Ruth Gorge, was "the first ascent of 'Peak 9,550' at the head of the Great Gorge." Obviously he didn't yet know about, or rejected, Cook's unofficial names of the peaks on the west side.

Then, on April 9, Brad writes, "Fisher and I finally packed our survey gear to the top of 'Peak 9,550' which we called Mt. Dickey in honor of William A. Dickey, who named Mt. McKinley . . . ."

So Orth is wrong. In all likelihood, Cook DID name Mt. Dickey by some other name that has not come down to us.

Greg--worth going back to the Byrd Polar Center at OSU? Do they have Cook's diary? Wonder where Barrill's diary is? Barrill's sketch map, according to Brad and Cherici, was published in the Globe and Commercial Advertiser, Oct. 15, 1909.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2016 - 11:05am PT
^^^ David, that is an excellent find. So we've pinned the right guy, but on the wrong trip.

Curious that Cook's name didn't stick for that mountain, but did for the others... It also wouldn't greatly surprise me if Brad named the peak for the same guy as Cook... I never met Mr. Washburn, but would that gesture be entirely out of character? It would certainly make a point that Brad spent a lot of time and energy making in more formal venues.

Barrill's sketch map, according to Brad and Cherici, was published in the Globe and Commercial Advertiser, Oct. 15, 1909.

I'll see if I can find it in the LoC database.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2016 - 11:11am PT
Damn... the Library of Congress "Chronicling America" archive isn't loading. I'll try later.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2016 - 12:14pm PT
People should start naming faro-related routes on Mount Bradley:

"Call the turn, Mr. Bradley"
"Burn the soda"
"Coffin driver"
"Soda to hock"
"Copper the bet"
"A gaffed box"
"Bucking the tiger"

There's a town over in the Yukon named for the game.
F

climber
away from the ground
Feb 24, 2016 - 12:55pm PT
I wonder if there were any pre-existing native names for the Ruth Gorge peaks. Similar to Denali. SHI T, you can see em from the Talkeetna overlook... Maybe an old native musher stopped along the way and named all the peaks he could see in the distance and claimed them as tribal property?
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2016 - 01:41pm PT
^^^ I believe The Mooses Tooth is an Anglicization of the native name... I don't know whether the others merited native names.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2016 - 10:12am PT
My condolences to everyone in our community affected by the loss of Scott Cosgrove. One of the great ones. Sounds like he has hoed a rough row since his accident.

This just in via email from Eric at the AAC library:

"I found a few details in Fred Becky's Mount McKinley: Icy Crown of North America that may be of some help. There's a paragraph that goes over the major contributors to the expedition.

"Bolstered with favor and reputation, Cook now had little problem obtaining the necessary financing, a publication agreement, and new participants for his second sojourn to Alaska. Backed by both the Explorers Club and the American Geographic Society, he received $1,000 from Harper's and $5,000 from Henry W. Disston (grandson of wealthy Henry A. Disston, the Philadelphia saw manufacturer, who was to join Cook in the autumn for big-game hunting."

(that's on page 86, then on page 88 it confirms that Disston is the sportsman from back east that couldn't make it out to hunt as alluded to by Brian In SLC.)

So the eastern sportsman lead isn't a Johnson but there could possibly be a Johnson, or a Wake, or a Church with a influential role in one of the sponsoring organizations?

I've also attached a scan of the foldout map at the end of Belmore Browne's The Conquest of McKinley. One is the full map and the other is zoomed in on the Ruth Glacier area. It appears Browne or someone else originally named Bears Tooth, "Snowbonnet," thank goodness they changed it. Not sure if it's helpful but it's interesting."

*** Looks to me like it's both, Eric. Thanks. I'll unpack the images and post them.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2016 - 10:16am PT

Snowbonnet is bad, but to my taste, Mount Hubbard is worse.

Three cheers for The Mooses Tooth!

MarkWestman

Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
Feb 25, 2016 - 10:44am PT
Also interesting that what today is called simply "Pk. 11,300" is called "Mt.Kudlich" on Browne's map. That name Kudlich shows up on google earth also- someone put it there but I can't recall who- maybe Steve Gruhn?
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2016 - 11:14am PT
I love the white on the map... actual, bona fide, unexplored territory. Perhaps even unseen
MarkWestman

Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
Feb 25, 2016 - 11:57am PT
And in the subject of Steve Gruhn, who I should have thought to ask earlier- Steve is an encyclopedia of knowledge- he will chime in later but says cook named them all after sponsors who were Explorers Club members, and that Grosvenor was indeed the Nat Geo President.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2016 - 12:12pm PT
I just received another email from Laura Kissel at Ohio State University...

And it sounds like we're going to have answers for every mountain EXCEPT Johnson...

From Ms. Kissel:

"Ok, I was able to figure out Bradley, Church and Dickey. No luck with Johnson. And yes, Grosvenor is for the man of National Geographic fame as you suspected.

Cook met Bradley in 1905, so I’m certain that is the correct Bradley.

Dickey is for William Dickey, the prospector who named Mt. McKinley for President McKinley.

Church is for Alfred Church, who was on the Peary Relief Expedition in 1898 (as was Cook).

The only one that I know for sure sponsored Cook at any time was Bradley, and I’m sure that his naming of the peak was a tactical move on Dr. Cook’s part.

I can’t figure out who Johnson is. I haven’t yet given up, though. So if I can figure that one out, I’ll let you know!

Laura"

I've asked her for source material. I'm curious to learn whether Brad "renamed" Dickey for the same guy Cook did.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2016 - 12:15pm PT
Mark, I'm curious to learn whether or not Gruhn confirms the info in from the OSU archive... and also if he has a lead on Mr. Johnson.
MarkWestman

Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
Feb 25, 2016 - 12:20pm PT
Steve is busy today but says he'll read through and respond as soon as he can. If anyone knows, Steve will!

Did Ms. Kissel know who Wake is?
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2016 - 12:21pm PT
I overlooked Wake. He's not mentioned in her email.

I'll check back.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2016 - 12:34pm PT
Here's a little bit more on Mr. Bradley, from p145 of Charles Officer and Jake Page's book A Fabulous Kingdom: The Exploration of the Arctic.


And more about his estate in the 8/25/1946 issue of The Chicago Trib.

You can even take a 1906 tour of the casino John R. Bradley owned with his brother, Colonel Edward R. Bradley, the one which presumably funded Cook in 1907.

And a little more on "Gambler Jim," a "crackerjack faro dealer," from p180 of Bruce Henderson's True North.
David Roberts

Mountain climber
Watertown, MA
Feb 25, 2016 - 03:18pm PT
Thanks to Eric at AAC and Mark Westman. Eager to hear from Steve Gruhn.

Beckey's account of sponsors is less accurate than Brad and Cherici, in DISHONORABLE. According to them, Harper and Bros. advanced $1,000 (Cook claimed $25,000!). Herschel Parker donated $2,000. Disston pledged $10,000, but never paid after he bailed from the hunting trip.

Cook was so deeply in debt after the 1906 expedition that he never paid Barrill his promised wages, or Russell Porter or Fred Printz (helpers in the field). A scoundrel from the start. Bradley saved Cook's ass.

Cook was so broke most of his sad life partly because he squandered money on frills (trips for his wife, etc.) Never gave good accounting of his expenses.

Who are Johnson and Wake? Onward, sleuths!

--David Roberts
Dolomite

climber
Anchorage
Feb 25, 2016 - 03:36pm PT
Okay, fellas: who the heck was Kudlich? Someone whose name so much did not roll off the tongue that we all went back to 11,300?
Phred

Mountain climber
Anchorage
Feb 26, 2016 - 02:04am PT
OK, I finally have a chance to chime in. Mark Westman suggested that I take a look at this thread and respond. I’ll try to go comment-by-comment so I don’t miss anything. I apologize if this gets redundant, long-winded, or comes across as sort of a stream of consciousness.

In 1975 Tom Davies, Jon Krakauer, and Nate Zinsser had their eyes set on Mount Johnson, but backed off after skiing down to take a look at it. They went on to make the first ascents of “Ham and Eggs” on The Mooses Tooth and Mount Cosmic Debris.

Gary Bocarde’s partners on the May 1979 first ascent of Mount Johnson were Charlie Head, John Lee, and Jon Thomas.

It’s Ruedi Homberger, not Rudi Hommburger.

Page 243 of the 1982 Alpine Journal indicated that Milward and Young attempted the east ridge of Mount Johnson in the summer of 1981, but got shut down due to weather. http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1982_files/AJ%201982%20238-244%20MEF%20Notes.pdf

According to Hannes Arch’s report on pages 158 and 160 of the 1991 AAJ, Helmut Neswadba and he attempted the east buttress (aka the east ridge), not the north face, of Mount Johnson in July 1990.

According to Doug Chabot’s article on page 71 of the 1996 AAJ, Kim Miller attempted the Elevator Shaft with Jack Tackle in 1993. In 1994 Tackle returned with Bill Belcourt, but objective hazards prevented them from really starting the Elevator Shaft.

I don’t know the names of Barber’s and Chouinard’s two partners in 1972 when they made their second attempt on the east buttress.

According to Bruno Hasler’s report on page 203 of the 2004 AAJ, Iwan Wolf, Urs Stocker, Markus Stofer, and he had to abandon their plan of attempting the east ridge of Mount Johnson due to high avalanche danger.

Louis-Philippe Menard and Maxime Turgeon made the second ascent of “The Escalator” in May 2005. See Turgeon’s article on page 79 of the 2006 AAJ.

I think Todd’s surname is Tumolo, not Tumalo.

Eamonn Walsh and Mark Westman made the third ascent of “The Escalator” in April 2006. See Westman’s report on pages 165 through 167 of the 2007 AAJ.

On April 20 and 21, 2013, Peter Doucette and Silas Rossi made the first ascent of “Twisted Stair,” which ascends a sub-peak of Mount Johnson. See Doucette’s report on pages 153 and 154 of the 2014 AAJ.

There may well have been other attempts on Mount Johnson. I don’t have the following journals at my fingertips, but my notes indicate that it might be worth checking them for records of attempts on Mount Johnson: January/February 1980 Mountain (Issue No. 71, page 15), May/June 1980 Climbing (Issue No. 6, page 3), August/September 1989 Climbing (Issue No. 115, page 20), August/September 1992 Climbing (Issue No. 133, page 44), February/March 1993 Climbing (Issue No. 136, pages 78, 79, and 135), November/December 1995 Climbing (Issue No. 156, page 38), June 1996 High Mountain Sports (Issue No. 163, page 26), December 1998 Climbing (Issue No. 181, pages 64, 67, and 70), September 2000 Climbing (Issue No. 197, page 64), December 2000 High Mountain Sports (Issue No. 217, page 76), January 2001 High Mountain Sports (Issue No. 218, page 70), March 2002 Climbing (Issue No. 210, page 68), April 2002 High Mountain Sports (Issue No. 233, page 66), September 2002 Climbing (Issue No. 217, page L12), Autumn 2004 Alpinist (Issue No. 8, page 96), Winter 2006 Alpinist (Issue No. 14, page 86), Spring 2006 Alpinist (Issue No. 15, page 40), Autumn 2006 Alpinist (Issue No. 17, page 82), Spring 2007 Alpinist (Issue No. 19, page 96), and September 2007 Climbing (Issue No. 260, page 52).

Frederick Cook named Mounts Church, Grosvenor, Johnson, Wake, Bradley, and Barrille. The names appear in his 1908 book To the Top of the Continent.

I disagree with Mark that Mounts Barrille and Dickey are the only two officially named peaks. The name Mount Church also appears on the USGS map.

Mount Dickey was named after William A. Dickey, a prospector in the region and the fellow who renamed Denali Mount McKinley in 1896. I concur that Mount Grosvenor was named after Gilbert Hovey Grosvenor, who edited the National Geographic Magazine at the time of Cook’s 1906 expedition.

Mount Barrille was named after Ed Barrill (note the misspelling of the peak’s name), who was Dr. Cook’s partner. The official name is Mount Barrille, despite Ed’s surname and the Washburn map’s name for the peak lacking the final E.

I do have a copy of Orth’s Dictionary of Alaska Place Names. It is, indeed, a great resource, but there are some occasional errors. Mount Dickey, for example, wasn’t named by Dora Keen in 1914, because the name was already in use by Cook in 1908. Incidentally, Dora Keen made the ascent of the East Peak of Mount Blackburn in 1912 with George Handy who would later become her husband (the marriage ultimately ended in divorce). The Dora Keen Range in the Chugach Mountains is named in her honor.

Cook’s party reached the Ruth Gorge by taking a boat up the Susitna and Tokositna Rivers and then walking up the Ruth Glacier. The entire process took months.

The name Mount Snowbonnet was originally applied by Belmore Browne to Broken Tooth, which has a large snowfield near the summit, not Bear’s Tooth.

Yes, I am, indeed, responsible for the name Mount Kudlich showing up on Google Earth, but unknowingly. I was contacted several years ago by a fellow (I think it might have been Aaron Maizlish, but I’m not certain of his name after so many years) who had heard that I’d been compiling records of peaks in Alaska. I kindly emailed him what I had and thought nothing of it. Later I found out that he had turned around and provided that information to Google Earth without my knowledge or consent. I pointed out some errors in my original data (Mount Benkin is incorrectly located, for example) and requested that he fix it. He claimed that he contacted Google Earth to fix it, but that they were unresponsive. Lesson learned. Mea culpa.

Mount Kudlich was likely named by Belmore Browne in honor of H.C. Kudlich, who, like Browne, was a member of the American Museum of Natural History. Kudlich was also New York City’s City Magistrate.

So, after all that, who was Mount Johnson named after? I’m not 100% certain, but my guess is Arva B. Johnson, the president of the Philadelphia Arctic Club. Cook was a founding member of the Arctic Club of America, which later was folded into The Explorers Club.

Mount Wake was likely named after Charles Wake, an insurance salesman and close friend of Dr. Cook. http://archives.chicagotribune.com/1909/12/27/page/4/article/wake-says-cook-duped-him

And lastly, Mark, David, and Greg have put way too much faith in my response, which has not been entirely definitive; I look to you guys as references.

Steve.
MarkWestman

Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
Feb 26, 2016 - 03:33am PT
Steve,

This is incredible info. Thank you for taking the time to put this all down!

And, definitive or not, you're the first and only one who has found, connected to Dr. Cook, the names Charles Wake and Arva B. Johnson, both of which at this point would have to be a mighty large coincidence to not be the ones for whom these peaks are named.

One other question- you mentioned that Cook named all the peaks but you left Dickey out of the list; but then said that Cook was using the name Dickey in To the Top of the Continent. So I'm not clear- was Mount Dickey named by Cook, or by someone else?

Broken Tooth definitely a better name than "Snowbonnet".

Thanks again Steve!

Bent knee

Ice climber
VT
Feb 26, 2016 - 05:53am PT
I seem to remember Nick Parker telling me that he attempted Johnson. I could be completely wrong, long ago I went through a ton of photos with him and he had stories of attempting one line or another on just about every peak in the Ruth.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2016 - 06:19am PT
Thanks for that huge response, Steve. Great stuff.

I can see in To the Top of the Continent that Cook named the peaks Bradley and below, but I can't find a page saying he named Dickey and Barill[e].

Can you point me to the place? Or to other source data.

And I'm delighted to see Wake and Johnson's namesakes likely identified.

But if Cook named Dickey, how come Washburn seems to do the naming in the 1956 AAJ? And for the same guy? That seems too unlikely to be coincidental. Did Washburn know of the existing name, and if so, why didn't he mention it?
David Roberts

Mountain climber
Watertown, MA
Feb 26, 2016 - 06:52am PT
Steve--
Yes, fantastic post. Thanks for all your expertise.

I must repeat from above that it's pretty clear that Washburn named Mt. Dickey. See 1956 AAJ.

Whether Cook had his own names for Dickey and Barrill[e] remains uncertain. The caption to the one photo in To the Top of the Continent clearly labels Mts. Church, Wake, Grosvenor, Johnson, and Bradley. But is there any evidence in the book of names for Dickey and Barrille? I'm not yet convinced that Cook named Barrille.

Could the Mazamas play any part in this? They were racing Belmore Browne up the Ruth in 1910.

Matt Hale is going to go to the Library of Congress next week and have a good look at Cook's diary.

--David Roberts
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 26, 2016 - 07:26am PT
Some fine and engaging historical sleuthing here folks!

I was going to suggest contacting Beckey as a desperate last measure but it appears that you have your answers.

Welcome David!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 26, 2016 - 07:44am PT
'Snowbonnet' works for me, sort of...

Dolomite

climber
Anchorage
Feb 26, 2016 - 11:06am PT
Amazing thread! Thanks everyone, particularly Steve. What are the billable hours on that investigation?! Let's not ignore Jim Sweeney's book on his and Dave Nyman's epic near-disaster. First edition was titled Marine Life Solidarity: an Alaskan Expedition. New edition is called, A Thousand Prayers. Really good stuff.
Phred

Mountain climber
Anchorage
Feb 26, 2016 - 06:20pm PT
I was wr—, I was wr—, I was wr—, I erred.

At 1 a.m., I glanced too quickly at the list of peaks that Cook named on the west side of the Ruth Gorge and didn’t notice that he had left Mount Dickey unnamed. I took that tidbit of misinformation and combined it with Bryce’s assertion on page 67 of http://www.dioi.org/vols/w73.pdf and incorrectly stated that it couldn’t have been named in 1914 because the name was in use in 1908. Thou shallt not conduct research with tired eyes and misfiring synapses.

In the October 1910 Pacific Monthly, Claude E. Rusk mentioned that Cook used the name Mount Barrille. Rusk also pointed out that the name for the peak immediately south of Mount Barrille was mysteriously left unnamed. For those interested in following along, a reprinting of the October 1910 Pacific Monthly appeared in the 1945 Mazama Annual.

As for Mount Dickey, Donald Orth’s Dictionary of Alaska Place Names indicates that Dora Keen named the peak in 1914 for William Andrews Dickey. I don’t know how Keen would have been in a position to apply names to geographic features in the Alaska Range, however. So, I took a little bit of time to do some more digging and found an answer. Bear with me on this, but you can follow along. Go to http://geonames.usgs.gov/apex/f?p=136:3:0::NO:3:P3_FID%2CP3_TITLE:1401190%2CMount+Dickey. Scroll down to “Correspondence” and click the arrow to the right. Now click on the entry labeled AK_1401190_016_Mount Dickey_cor_1976.pdf. This is a letter from Brad Washburn to Donald Orth bringing up the exact same question. Orth had a handwritten note on the letter that indicates he called Washburn and would make the correction that Keen did not name Mount Dickey. Now click on AK_1401190_015_Mount Dickey_cor_1978.pdf. That’s a letter from Washburn to Orth refuting a claim that Cook named Mount Dickey in 1906.

Not to nitpick Brad Washburn’s treatise in the 1956 AAJ, but I think he misstated the first ascent of Mount Barrille. Washburn claimed that it was by the Mazamas expedition. However, Claude Rusk’s report in the October 1910 Pacific Monthly indicated that the team reached only the northernmost point of rock on Mount Barrille, which they reached for the purposes of taking photos of Denali. Rusk called this point of rock Point Piper (and elsewhere as Point Pipe). Rusk also knew of the name Mount Barrille because he used that name in the same article. An August 14, 1910, article in the Oregonian also stated that Claude Rusk and Joseph Ridley climbed the northernmost point of rock and gave it the name Point Piper. Mark Westman and I combed over Rusk’s report a few years ago and came to the conclusion that Rusk and Ridley did not reach the summit of Mount Barrille and thus Washburn’s statement in the 1956 AAJ was in error. For the record, I believe the first recorded ascent of Mount Barrille was made on July 20, 1957, by Fred Beckey and John Rupley. A brief report on page 92 of the 1958 AAJ mentions others in the Beckey-Rupley party, but according to Greg Slayden, who recently interviewed Beckey and reviewed his diary, Wes Grande, Tom Hornbein, and Herb Staley did not participate in the Mount Barrille climb, although they were on the expedition with Beckey and Rupley.

Sorry to have created confusion with my earlier post. And I apologize for being so darned long-winded, too.

Steve.

Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 26, 2016 - 07:28pm PT

I have the reprint of "To the Top..." done by the Cook Society. There's selections of Cooks and Barrill's diaries. I didn't see much of value pertaining to this thread. Mentions that the original of Barrill's diary is missing.

There's a sketch on page 56 of Cook's dairy which shows an outline of the peaks on the west side of the Ruth, but, they're numbered and not named. Shows five peaks numbered.
MarkWestman

Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
Feb 26, 2016 - 08:39pm PT
Thanks Steve! Excellent work as usual.

So...to sum up, it sounds as though for some perplexing reason Cook did not name what is now called Mount Dickey and possibly gave it no name at all that we know of, and it was Bradford Washburn who named it in 1956?

As I recall, Steve, we decided that "Pipe Point" was likely either Pt. 6000, the little granite point just north of Barrille, or possibly even the tiny pimple just north of that which is known as "Mischka's Bump"- Mischka being the celebrated Japanese photographer who was killed in Siberia by a bear. Japanese kids come to the Ruth every year to scramble up it in his honor (Mischka was his nickname, and I can't remember his given name; he was famous for his glorious aurora and mountain photos taken in Alaska). This bump is also the bump which Sarah Palin groveled up on top rope for her travesty of a show, and which was advertised on there as "Denali's Toughest Mountain" (Edit: LOL).

Here's pt. 6000' and what I think was Pipe point on the extreme right edge of the image. Pipe Pt. is a walk up from the other side with a 50', 50 degree rock slab as the only climbing. Pt. 6000' is much easier from the other side also, but is a lot steeper and somewhat technical, which makes me doubt that the Mazamas climbed it in 1910 with primitive gear and tech skill.

MarkWestman

Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
Feb 26, 2016 - 08:48pm PT
I seem to remember Nick Parker telling me that he attempted Johnson.

I don't know him, but I recognize that name. I have Nick Parker as being one of the first ascentionists of Mount Wake, along with Gary Bocarde, and Paul Denkewalter, in February of 1979.

Bocarde made the FA's of Church (June, 1978), Grosvenor, Johnson (both May, 1979) and Wake in the winter of 1979. He reported that he didn't climb Bradley on these trips because he thought it had already been climbed. However, the earliest reported ascent of it that I can find is by Andi Orgler and Sepp Jochler, on July 4, 1987, via the east buttress.

One of the first ascentionists of Church- Grant Henke, and another young climber (forget the name), died in an avalanche on the south face of Mount Dan Beard in 1980.



Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 26, 2016 - 11:18pm PT
Combing through Browne's Conquest of Mount McKinley. He makes a few interesting comments about some of the place names. Said he chatted with W.A. Dickey and asked him why he named the mountain McKinley. Apparent retaliation for spending too much time in the company of prospectors "who were rapid champions of free silver." Named it after the champion of the gold standard.

Also mentions naming Mount Hubbard (General Thomas H. Hubbard, president of the Peary Arctic Club) and Professor Huntington, president of the American Geographical Society, for "the highest peak on the eastern edge of the Big Basin".

The main southern buttress of McKinley named for Daniel Carter Beard, "father of the world-celebrated Boy Scout movement, and a man who has endeared himself to every American man and boy through the pages of The American Boy's Handy Book."

No mention of the peaks on the west side of the Ruth Glacier. Map included is a beauty, though.
pn

Trad climber
Portland, OR
Feb 27, 2016 - 01:56am PT
In regard to the original question, I believe Lyle Dean spent some time with Mugs in the area. Not sure what they did but he may have more information on the subject.
Phred

Mountain climber
Anchorage
Feb 27, 2016 - 02:12pm PT
Michio Hoshino was the Japanese photographer killed by a bear on the Kamchatka Peninsula.

The first ascent of Mount Church was in 1977 by Gary Bocarde, Grant Henke, Stacy Taniguchi, and Dick Wheaton.

Washburn proposed the name "Mount Dickey" in 1955 (there's a copy of his original proposal at the link I posted above), but it didn't become official until 1960.

Dave Kempfer was Grant Hanke's partner on Mount Dan Beard when both of them perished due to a cornice collapse. http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13198102001/Cornice-Collapse-Bad-Weather-Alaska-Mt-Dan-Beard


ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Feb 27, 2016 - 08:56pm PT
When Washburn filled out the proposal slip, nominating the name was he choosing an original name or merely wanting to make it official and adopted by the USGS?

Arne
Phred

Mountain climber
Anchorage
Feb 28, 2016 - 12:55am PT
It appears the name Mount Dickey originated with Brad Washburn. The other correspondence on the site linked above included a letter from Washburn indicating that he was the source of the name.
Phred

Mountain climber
Anchorage
Feb 29, 2016 - 09:09am PT
I received an email from Ruedi Homberger in response to my request for additional information. He attempted the east pillar/face of Mount Johnson in 1978 with Yvon Chouinard, Henry Barber, and Paul Muggli. Barber had attempted the same route in 1975 with Jim McCarthy.

Ruedi's team got up 26 pitches and had two bivies. He said that Mugs Stump and an Austrian climber were there at the time and attempted a more direct route than the Barber-Chouinard-Homberger-Muggli team.

He sent several photographs, including one showing their route line. Greg, PM me your email address if you're interested in more information.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 29, 2016 - 11:13am PT
Done. And thanks for your contributions. Much appreciated.
Larry Nelson

Social climber
Feb 29, 2016 - 04:57pm PT
A bump for the most interesting thread topic on Taco right now
Thanks to all for your great input
Phred

Mountain climber
Anchorage
Feb 29, 2016 - 05:44pm PT
I emailed Nick Parker about his history with Mount Johnson. Here's his reply:

"hello,i did explore the glacial valley below Mt. Johnson. I was not strong enough or skilled for that level of difficulty. I did lead the team of PJ's when we rescued Sweeney and Nyman. I was dispatched by NPS due to knowledge of the terrain they were trapped in. Nick"
Matt Hale

climber
Alexandria VA
Mar 2, 2016 - 08:21am PT
At Dave Roberts' suggestion, I checked out the Cook diary in the Library of Congress. Here are a couple of interesting sketches from the diary - a map of the Ruth Glacier with camps, etc., marked, and a sketch of the peaks in the Ruth Gorge very similar to the photo in Cook's book. The peaks aren't named on the sketch, and the text of the diary (which is hard to read) does not mention the peaks or their naming. So no help there, except to suggest that Cook named them later.
On the first sketch, the numbers above the peaks are presumably compass readings. It's curious that the title of the sketch refers to 6 peaks but there are only 5 shown (unless the writing above the arrow says "small peak" - Cook's writing is pretty bad. Gl is an abbreviation Cook uses for "glacier." I couldn't make heads or tails of the figures on the lower right.

Also, I found the writing on the Ruth Glacier map pretty much indecipherable, but maybe people who know the area can figure it out. (You can see dates indicating camps.)

David Roberts

Mountain climber
Watertown, MA
Mar 2, 2016 - 09:09am PT
Matt--
This is great stuff, no matter how cryptic. I don't think the sketches (or the diary) have ever been published before. Washburn and Cherici show no signs of having seen the diary in DISHONORABLE. If this was the blueprint for TO THE TOP OF THE CONTINENT, it would be revealing to compare the diary to the book.
Steve and Mark and others, can you make anything out of these sketches? Can we match the peaks to Church through Bradley? And if the numbers are compass bearings, can we figure out where Cook stood when he made the sketch?
Matt, keep trying to transcribe the diary. As you can see from the map, the crucial days are September 10 and after. By September 22, Cook and Barrill were back at Susitna Station. (Pretty fast ascent even for today's hard men!)
Why have none of the "scholars" bothered to look at the diary?
Any of you out there who are paleographic experts? (Paleography = Old writing.)
--David
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 2, 2016 - 09:34am PT
can we figure out where Cook stood when he made the sketch?

Probably within a few hundred meters or so given that the bearings are halfway accurate.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2016 - 11:29am PT
Matt! Love it. Very interesting to see Cook's originals. And yes, if he was taking accurate bearings, reciprocal bearing lines from the summits should intersect where Cook was standing.

Thanks for making the effort to check.
MarkWestman

Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
Mar 2, 2016 - 01:26pm PT
Further up this thread, I linked to a PDF from a DIOI website- somewhere in there, these same sketches appeared, and there was a definitive notation in the text mentioning that the numbers above the peaks corresponded to the compass bearings Cook was using while doing his mapping. I believe that it even mentions that these readings were taken from near the head the glacier north of Glacier Point which is today known as "Glacier #1. This area is far from the "Fake Peak". And these bearings would make sense, basically due west from the head of Glacier #1 you are looking right at the lower Gorge peaks.
MarkWestman

Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
Mar 2, 2016 - 01:30pm PT
Page 28 of 33:

The sketch with compass bearings above is posted with this caption:

Figure 30: Page 56 of Cook's 1906 diary, showing a sketch of the peaks (Mt. Church, Mt.
Grosvenor, etc, along the western edge of the Great Gorge. (See Fig.1&z7 fn 33.) Numbers
on the peaks are Cook's measured compass bearings. The notation “obs from amp th”
suggests that (at least part of) the drawing was made from the Fake Peak amphitheatre.
However, the raw bearing­data indicate that they were observed south of Glacier Point.
(See fn 26.)
MarkWestman

Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
Mar 2, 2016 - 01:33pm PT
http://www.dioi.org/vols/w73.pdf

For the second sketch Matt posted, it's also on page 13 of 33, this is the caption:

Figure 12: Page 44 from Cook's Mount McKinley Diary, 1906, published here for the rst
time. (See z9 xF2[e].) Note the word “Lake” at rule [14]. The tiny circles with radiating
lines may indicate several positions from which photos were taken. The corresponding
photographs are indicated (by pages­opposite in Top of the Continent) at the right­hand
margin of the gure. All of Cook's various written notations are transcribed as they fall
above the rules on the page, left to right, as follows: [1] Ruth gl. [2] McK.; 12. [3] 10;
11. [4] 9; slate Black Pinnacles; N gl. [5] low table top. [6] 13000; shield; 14000. [7] 8
Peaks [written vertically]; 5; 12000. [8] yellow peaks; quartz; 26; 1000. [9] yellow peaks.
[10] Cerac. [11] 26; slate; passes into Fidele gl. [12] 16; camp; cr.; granite. [13] Little Mc
[written vertically]; 15 miles from Boat. [14] 11mi; Lake; 5000. [15] 6000. [17] 3 1/2 mi.
[18] cerac; cr. [19] Tokoshit; 5; 6000. [21] gl. face. [22] 5 mi; Sept 10.
Phred

Mountain climber
Anchorage
Mar 2, 2016 - 01:52pm PT
I don't think the numbers are compass bearings. If they were, the sight point would have to be quite a distance to the east, beyond the toe of the Eldridge Glacier. And Cook wasn't anywhere near there in 1906.
MarkWestman

Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
Mar 2, 2016 - 02:01pm PT
If he was in the Fake Peak Amp, that's a couple miles to the east. Looking at a topo map of the area, it doesn't seem unreasonable- his bearings are about 6 degrees apart from Church to Bradley.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 2, 2016 - 02:21pm PT
Just using the two left hand peaks, with Mt Church being the furthest left
works thusly...

Phred

Mountain climber
Anchorage
Mar 2, 2016 - 02:22pm PT
Let's say he took a sighting from the Fake Peak area. The sighting (true north) to Mount Bradley from Fake Peak is 281.3 degrees . The (true north) sighting to Mount Church from the same location is 252.3 degrees. That's a difference of 29 degrees. I don't see how any location in the Fake Peak Glacier area could get close to only a 6-degree spread between the two peaks.
Phred

Mountain climber
Anchorage
Mar 2, 2016 - 02:29pm PT
Reilly, I don't think I follow how you drew those lines. The angle between them doesn't seem to be close to 3.5 degrees. 270 degrees is due west, so 263.5 degrees would be slightly south of due west. But let's say Cook merely reported the readings based on magnetic north. I don't know what the declination was back in 1906, but it was about 27 degrees east of north in 1952. If that were the case, a reading of 243 degrees would equate to due west. Yet your line for 260 degrees is drawn south of due west.

And you also skipped over Mount Grosvenor, which would have been the second peak from the left.
MarkWestman

Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
Mar 2, 2016 - 02:34pm PT
I'm not sure where the DIOI article gets the confirmation that caused them to state that the numbers were bearings, but maybe Cook was just a really bad surveyor too? :)
Phred

Mountain climber
Anchorage
Mar 2, 2016 - 02:35pm PT
I thought that perhaps the numbers in his journal correlated to photograph numbers, but that would just be a guess on my part.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 2, 2016 - 02:37pm PT
Phred, they're magnetic lines as I am pretty sure Cook wasn't
working on true north. Of course, the magnetic pole has changed quite
a bit since Cook was there but relatively we're still in the ball park.

As to Grosvenor I did draw a 83.5/263.5 line from it but the intersection
with the Church line was right at the base of Church so that didn't seem
likely. I should add that the other bearings make no sense so who knows?
A line from the intersection south of Glacier Point to Dickey is 299 MN
which is greatly at odds with whatever that sketch shows as 266 for the
next to last on the right. If Barrile is the furthest right you can add
another 5 degrees. It could be assumed that Cook's cartographic skills
were at least as suspect as his integrity.
David Roberts

Mountain climber
Watertown, MA
Mar 2, 2016 - 04:27pm PT
Mark, thanks for the link to the DIOI article, which I was unaware of. Bryce has done a remarkable job of deciphering Cook's execrable handwriting. And thanks to all of you for some pretty savvy conjuring with possible compass direction lines.

Matt Hale sent me a digital copy of the diary itself. Bryce focuses almost exclusively on the sketches, which of course are of paramount importance. But here are a few top-of-the-head comments on the diary passages themselves (forgive me if I've overlooked any commentary by Bryce on same).

There are big blank spaces in the diary between very cursory entries between Sept. 12-18. Could these be lacunae into which Cook intended later to insert faked entries to "cover" the magnificent ascent?

In these pages Cook calls his partner "Brill." If he couldn't even spell Barrill's name right, does it not seem highly unlikely that Cook named Mt. Barrill[e]?

There is a last entry titled "Questions," which Matt is trying to transcribe. They sound like a man anticipating the assaults of skeptics, and figuring out how to bluff his way through plausible responses. There seems no doubt that Cook planned the hoax from the moment he decided to return to the Ruth.

Finally--could we get Brian Okonek to join our thread? He seems to have done some of the best sleuthing of all on the ground. Could you guys in Anchorage contact Brian?

Fascinating and fascinatinger . . . .
MarkWestman

Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
Mar 2, 2016 - 04:36pm PT
There seems no doubt that Cook planned the hoax from the moment he decided to return to the Ruth.

I remember reading that Belmore Browne was shocked when he heard that Cook had decided "to make one last desperate attempt on McKinley" in late August of 1906. He thought it very odd that Cook was heading back in so late in the season and on short notice.

I'll see if I can reach Brian in the next day or two, we live in the same town. I'm sure he will have some interesting information.
Phred

Mountain climber
Anchorage
Mar 2, 2016 - 06:35pm PT
I sent Brian an email inviting him to join the fun.
Matt Hale

climber
Alexandria VA
Mar 3, 2016 - 03:46pm PT
Mark - Thanks for cut-and-pasting the explanation of the captions on Cook's sketches.The second sketch was particularly unreadable for me.

David Roberts refers to a set of questions Cook posed in his diary. They're the next to the last entry in the diary, separated by 40 blank pages from the previous entry. The page has the heading: "Question" followed by (as best I can read the handwriting) "Was there any wind. How cold How did the mtn look from the top. How did you make it. Porter why not tell news of final ascent" The final sentence is somewhat sketchy - here's the text.


The next page with text, p. 170, is a lecture outline. So it makes sense that the questions are what he expects being asked.


Matt Hale

climber
Alexandria VA
Mar 3, 2016 - 04:07pm PT
I meant to ask if anyone knows who Porter is.
Phred

Mountain climber
Anchorage
Mar 3, 2016 - 04:20pm PT
Russell W. Porter.

Porter was a part of Cook's expedition, but remained in the lowlands to survey the region. When Cook returned, claiming an ascent, Porter was rather skeptical.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Russell_W._Porter
Phred

Mountain climber
Anchorage
Mar 4, 2016 - 04:08pm PT
Email from Brian Okonek:

Hi Steve,

Dr. Fredrick Cook undoubtably named Mt. Johnson. In his book “To the Top of the Continent” 1909 edition there is a photograph opposite page 192 of the Ruth Gorge peaks taken from Glacier Point. The peaks are labeled Mt. Church, Mt. Grosvenor, Mt. Johnson, Mt. Wake and Mt. Bradley and the photograph has Copy Right of 1907. Belmore Browne did not ascend the Ruth Glacier through the Great Gorge until 1910. Gilbert H. Grosvenor was editor of the National Geographic Society which was supporting Cook’s expedition. ( See “Cook Peary The Polar Controversy, Resolved” by Robert Bryce page 264). John R. Bradley owned a gambling club in Palm Beach and was a millionaire. He had gone to the Arctic with Cook to hunt big game animals and helped fund Cook’s expeditions. ( See “Cook Peary The Polar Controversy, Resolved” by Robert Bryce page 294). Cook had also named a big lake in honor of Bradley that his 1906 Denali expedition passed by on his approach to the Alaska Range now called Chelatna Lake. After Cook returned from his North Pole expedition he left his original notebooks with a Charles Wake in New York City. ( See “Cook Peary The Polar Controversy, Resolved” by Robert Bryce page 457). This is perhaps the person that Cook named Mt. Wake after. There is no mention of a person named Church or Johnson in Bryce’s book and I have not seen reference to the names in Washburn’s books. I imagine that they are people that helped fund Cook’s expedition. I have not come across reference to who Johnson was. The Cook Society should be able to shed some light on the issue.

Cheers,

Brian Okonek
David Roberts

Mountain climber
Watertown, MA
Mar 5, 2016 - 07:57am PT
Brian--Thanks for your succinct summary of the naming of the peaks. Your work with Brad rediscovering the places from which Cook shot his photos was brilliant.

The work of all of you in this thread, I think, has unearthed the likely identities of Church, Grosvenor, Johnson, Wake, and Bradley. I think this deserves a more permanent record, say in the next AAJ. After all, those mountains, however ill-named, have been the arenas of some of the boldest cutting-edge climbs in North America during the last few decades.

Steve? Mark? Greg?

Matt's perusal of Cook's diary in the Library of Congress makes it clear that Cook didn't name the peaks in the diary, but only in a caption to the photo in TO THE TOP OF THE CONTINENT.

It's pretty clear that Washburn named Mount Dickey in 1955, though it didn't become official until 1960. I think it's still uncertain who named Mount Barrill[e]. Not Cook, I'd guess.

Matt's highlighting of that strange last page in Cook's diary, titled "Questions" (plural as I read it, not singular), remains tantalizing. It sure looks like the memorandum of a man trying to figure out the kinds of data he needs to win over doubters as he spins his fairy tale of the first ascent of McKinley. The last line--"Porter why not tell news of the final ascent" (could "news" be "more"?)--is very curious. Wikipedia, as Steve cites, says that Russell Porter was skeptical of Cook's claim. Yet Porter later supplied drawings for TOP OF THE CONTINENT. On the other hand, according to Washburn and Cherici (p. 56), Cook stiffed Porter for the $750 he owed him for making lowland surveys and maps while he and Barrill were up on the Ruth.

Porter's own account is in his memoir, THE ARCTIC DIARY OF RUSSELL WILLIAMS PORTER (U. of Va. Press, ca. 1976). Can anybody find that online? If not, I can borrow it from the Harvard libraries. I'm intrigued to see just what Porter says.

Again, great work here by many people. It's been invigorating to take part in this roundtable.
Matt Hale

climber
Alexandria VA
Mar 5, 2016 - 09:19am PT
On Cook's diary entry "Questions" - The final sentence could easily be "Porter why not tell more of final ascent." Cook's initial m's in the diary are usually more prominent, but "more" probably makes more sense in this context. I included the original text especially because of its ambiguities.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2016 - 09:42am PT
^^^ David, agreed, this has been and is tons of fun. I'd think Steve and/or Mark are more authentic AAJ contributor's than I would be... all I did was pose a few questions.

I'm still hopeful we can learn more about the namesakes through Laura Kissel at the OSU polar archive. Or perhaps get some kind of confirmation.

I wonder if Cook did the naming as he was writing his book and had that excellent photo to publish and caption? And by then, out of the mountains, he strikes me as the kind of guy who would be scheming for future advantage the naming might afford.

That might also explain why Dickey and Barill[e] didn't get named... because Cook didn't have a good photo of those peaks to put in the book.

(I'm just postulating, obviously...)
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 5, 2016 - 09:43am PT
I think Cook named "Barrille"...


Great stuff, guys!
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2016 - 09:50am PT
Got it, Brian. That looks like the same sort of confirmation as we've accepted for Church, Grosvenor, Johnson, Wake, and Bradley.

And also conforms to my hypothesis that Cook didn't name Dickey because he didn't have a picture of it to put in his book.

(I'm just reaching for any plausible and reasonable explanation of why he didn't name it, and that one came to mind this morning. And how bizarre would that be? I'm open to any suggestions as to why he didn't name Dickey... and this morning I'm theorizing that he did the naming when he wrote and laid out the book, not when he was in the Gorge.)
Phred

Mountain climber
Anchorage
Mar 5, 2016 - 12:27pm PT
I had the same thought as Greg about the timing of the naming. Perhaps an editor said that they couldn't just have photos of those striking peaks in his book without attaching names to them and then Cook obliged. Since there wasn't a photo of Dickey, it remained unnamed until 1955. Mere conjecture on my part, but it sounds plausible to me.

As far as writing something for the AAJ, my first thought was that it was Greg's thread, so he would be the likely candidate. Failing that, Mark Westman would make a much more convincing source than I. I've never seen Mount Johnson, except from the air. I'd be happy to help review, but I really don't think I should be the primary author.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 5, 2016 - 12:56pm PT
Great thread......the Ruth Gorge sure has a righteous lineup of alpine peaks!
MarkWestman

Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
Mar 5, 2016 - 01:07pm PT
I would definitely be interested in at least assisting someone with this project for the AAJ- my only issue is that I just got back to work at the park and am neck deep in training seminars as well as personal projects (including some other writing projects), and then patrols, for the next several months, so I can't honestly say I will have any serious time to devote towards it, at least as a primary author.
IMHO I would defer to Steve's historical expertise and Greg's professional writing skill.
So Greg Steve and I have each deferred to the other two. :)
Rock paper scissors?
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2016 - 04:21pm PT
Alright already... I'll do it, but Mark, Steve, and David have to promise to give it a "peer review" ahead of publication so that I can be assured of being mistake free...
Phred

Mountain climber
Anchorage
Mar 5, 2016 - 05:37pm PT
I had to chuckle at Mark's rock-paper-scissors comment.

Given the timing, I think the 2017 AAJ is the likely target, not the 2016 edition. I'd be happy to provide a review (I don't think it would be fair to you to call me a peer). And I can't guarantee a mistake-free piece, but it's a lovely goal.

I really enjoy this sort of team-effort sleuthing. There are probably hundreds or thousands of similar points of trivia out there for the mountains of Alaska. Who will pose the next question and what will it be?
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2016 - 06:04pm PT
Steve, I've been curious to ask about the mountain of data you've amassed....

How do you have it organized and indexed, and since a lot of it probably predates the digital age, how do you have it stored?
MarkWestman

Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
Mar 5, 2016 - 06:58pm PT
Alright already... I'll do it, but Mark, Steve, and David have to promise to give it a "peer review" ahead of publication so that I can be assured of being mistake free...

Right on. I'll help anyway I can!
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2016 - 05:19pm PT
Dougald at the AAJ has given us the go-ahead, suggesting that since we have missed the 2016 deadline, we might do best having it put online and referenced in the 2017 journal.

David Roberts

Mountain climber
Watertown, MA
Mar 7, 2016 - 07:42am PT
Greg--
It's only right that you write this up, as the initiator of the thread. I'm happy to read it and put in my 2 cents' worth.

Brian--
Thanks for pointing out what lay under all our noses--the photo of Mt. Barrill[e] in TOP OF THE CONTINENT with Cook's caption. So obviously he named it.

The fact that he spells the horsepacker's name as "Brill" in the diary only adds to the argument that the naming came later, only when he saw which photos were going to be published. (I. e., he somehow checked with the guy and at least came closer to spelling his name right.) If the naming of Church through Bradley was inspired by the effort to cozy up to potential sponsors, the naming of Barrille may have been a last-ditch attempt to mollify the partner who had already (in his "affidavit") blown Cook's cover.

Incidentally, Cook DID publish a photo of Mt. Dickey, but captioned it "The Middle Northeast Slopes--Where Avalanches Tumble from Slopes Unseen to Depths Unknown." See DISHONORABLE, pp. 138-39.
Phred

Mountain climber
Anchorage
Mar 7, 2016 - 12:53pm PT
"Steve, I've been curious to ask about the mountain of data you've amassed....

How do you have it organized and indexed, and since a lot of it probably predates the digital age, how do you have it stored?"

Well, the mountain is more like filing cabinets and bookshelves of notes, journals, maps, books, magazines, and emails. It's one fire (or fed-up wife) away from disappearing forever. I have some of the data in an electronic format and have been making strides (OK, baby steps) toward getting the information in an online format that could be viewed by clicking on an icon on a map.

Phred

Mountain climber
Anchorage
Apr 3, 2017 - 06:35pm PT
I was able to locate a copy of The Arctic Diary of Russell Williams Porter. Here's the pertinent information, taking up with Porter meeting Cook at Susitna Station after returning from the Alaska Range in 1906.

"In three days we were at Susitna Station. Scarcely had we arrived before a commotion down by the shore brought us to the river's bank.

"There was the Bolshoy, with Dr. Cook at the stern and Barrill the packer just stepping ashore.

"Go back and congratulate the doctor," he said as I reached the boat.

"How so?"

"He got to the top."

"Well, so it seemed. They described a hair-raising dash to the very summit. Following the Tokichitna [Tokositna] Glacier they had climbed the northeast spur, digging into the very face of vertical ice walls when night overtook them. The account was all very thrilling, and at that time I believe it was accepted as truth by everyone in the party.

"I returned east with the doctor and helped illustrate (from verbal descriptions) the book he was preparing. (Sometime during the Cook-Peary controversy, I ran across a statement in the paper that Barrill had denied having reached the summit, that the events pictured in Cook's volume To the Top of the Continent never happened, that they were figments of the doctor's imagination.)9 I worked up the field notes of the trip, which were afterwards incorporated in the maps of the Geological Survey.10

"But evidently doubts began to assail some of the party, for soon Browne and Parker were back in Alaska following up the doctor's trail over the Tokichitna Glacier.11 They later published a photograph of a mountain summit said to be several miles from McKinley's peak and but five or six thousand feet elevation, which to all appearances is identical with the peak shown in the doctor's book and labeled "The Top of the Continent." I have the two photographs before me now, and the one by Browne and Parker certainly looks like damaging evidence. For, while the snowbanks are unlike, as might be expected with an interval of some year's time, the topographical features are alike in every detail.

"9 To the Top of the Continent: Discovery, Exp0loration, and Adventure in Sub-Arctic Alaska, the First Ascent of Mt. McKinley (New York, 1908). The frontispiece of this book is a color-plate reproduction of Porter's beautiful watercolor entitled "Mt. McKinley, 20,390 feet, Highest Mountain in North America" with the note "from a painting by Russell W. Porter." This watercolor is with the Porter Papers. The only other reference to Porter in Cook's book is in the title of the miner's map of the Mount McKinley region, between pp. 152 and 153, which states simply "by the Topographer of the Cook-Mt. McKinley Expedition, 1907." Problems arose between Cook and Porter when Porter requested payment for the map and various illustrations. This correspondence is also with the Porter Papers.

"10 A search of the records of the U.S. Geological Survey, Record Group 57, in the National Archives has failed to disclose the existence of Porter's field notes and planetable work. In 1909 Peary corresponded with the U.S. Geological Survey and with Porter concerning these field notes and Porter's topographic map of the Mount McKinley region. Porter obtained a published copy of the map and annotated it with various lines to indicate routes that he, Cook, and others traveled. This map and the correspondence are among the Peary Papers, RG 401 (1A).

"11 See Belmore Browne and Herschel C. Parker, The Conquest of Mount McKinley: The Story of Three Expeditions through the Alaskan Wilderness to Mount McKinley, North America's Highest and Most Inaccessible Mountain (New York, 1913)."

Porter's book includes a map titled "Cook Mt McKinley Expedition 1906" that has a route drawn on it. Interestingly, the route does not reach the Ruth Glacier and shows the route from Yentna Station heading up the "Tokichitna" Glacier (which appears to be what is now known as the Tokositna Glacier. The route then travels to the ridge between that glacier and the unlabeled glacier now known as the Ruth Glacier. The farthest north point shown on the route was on that ridge and is somewhere between the isthmus between the two glaciers and what is now known as Backside Glacier.

Also of interest is Porter's sketch labeled "Mount McKinley looking north, as seen from the ridge between the Tokichitna and Tococha glaciers." It appears that Porter's Tococha Glacier is now known as the Ruth Glacier.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
Apr 3, 2017 - 09:18pm PT
A fascinating discussion - thanks to all who have contributed.

There sure are a lot of things in North America named for the undeserving.

Brian in SLC commented:

Combing through Browne's Conquest of Mount McKinley. He makes a few interesting comments about some of the place names. Said he chatted with W.A. Dickey and asked him why he named the mountain McKinley. Apparent retaliation for spending too much time in the company of prospectors "who were rapid champions of free silver." Named it after the champion of the gold standard.

Perhaps something should be named for William Jennings Bryan, then, the great populist, perennial presidential candidate, and champion of a silver-based currency (see "cross of gold" speech. Before his squabble with Darrow (see Scopes), that is.

The main southern buttress of McKinley named for Daniel Carter Beard, "father of the world-celebrated Boy Scout movement, and a man who has endeared himself to every American man and boy through the pages of The American Boy's Handy Book."

Lord Baden-Powell is usually credited with founding the scouting movement, although Beard may have brought it to the USA.
Phred

Mountain climber
Anchorage
Apr 4, 2017 - 10:35am PT
Also, in answer to Greg's original question, Christophe Moulin, Mathieu Rideau, Antoine Rolle, and Steve Thibout put up a route on a sub-peak on the southeast ridge of Mount Johnson. They called this sub-peak Little John and they named their route "It's not Good to be Dead." Reports of their climb will appear in the upcoming 2017 American Alpine Journal and the May 2017 Scree.
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