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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Feb 10, 2016 - 07:04am PT
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Alex Honnold and Colin Haley have acquired a taste for this rapid ascents linking several peaks in Patagonia this season. A week later, making the first repeat of the Torre Traverse in 20 hours, they have conducted another express ride in the Fitz Roy, linking Desmochada, the Silla and Cerro Fitz Roy in a scant 17 hours and 7 minutes. They needed a total of 25 hours and 17 minutes for the trip back and forth from his bivouac at the base of the Desmochada.
Most impressive of all, the American climber has completed the entire route climbing free. Both the first and the second roped up the whole way ... although, strictly speaking, few long belays, because they made much of his journey climbing simul. In short: three long pitches in Desmochada climbing Golden gate, two long pitches in the chair for the first free Bastard and three other long pitches to score the Californian to Fitz Roy.
Colin Haley has given all the credit for this ascent to Honnold: "Not only did Alex lead across the toughest part of the climb, with huge move away, but he kept during the entire climb the heaviest part of the extra rope/gear. it was the largest rock climbing effort I've ever seen. " Haley says, "I think this is the hardest I have ever tried in the mountains as the second climber. While crossing tower last week was a fairly equal symbiosis of our respective strengths, this ascent, completely made up of rock climbing, was made possible by Alex, and I just tried my hardest not slow us down. "
For them, the most pitches were 6c +, although the original Golden Eagle, opened by Alex Huber and Stephan Siegrist in 2006, marks a key long 7a +. In total, there were 1900 meters of climbing.
The wave effect direct
The two climbers were inspired to this adventure activity in 2011 by his fellow Whit Magro, Nate Opp and Josh Wharton, who made the link the same three peaks and the resulting line called The wave effect . However, those followed different routes in the first two: the climbed Desmochada through satellite Brass parrot, a line that combines sections of El Condor, Golden Eagle and The sound and the fury; Needle and the chair for the new The Vertical current.
Whit Magro, Nate Opp and Josh Wharton took four days to carry out its link in alpine style and pitching out most of the climb.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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Feb 10, 2016 - 07:11am PT
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Incredible
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Feb 10, 2016 - 07:13am PT
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Feb 10, 2016 - 07:24am PT
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Wow.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Feb 10, 2016 - 07:52am PT
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Holy!!! That's impressive.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Feb 10, 2016 - 07:55am PT
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XLNT!
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Feb 10, 2016 - 08:03am PT
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It is breathtaking stuff!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Feb 10, 2016 - 08:13am PT
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There have been a lot of cool sh#t happening there.
Two new routes on Fitz Roy and 2nd Free Ascent of the Southeast Ridge of Cerro Torre by Andrew Rothner, Mikey Schaefer and Josh Wharton. Amazing season so far...
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Feb 10, 2016 - 09:49am PT
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Freeing the Torre must be spectacular beyond words. Hopefully Alpinist will devote another issue to what's been happening this season.
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Feb 10, 2016 - 10:25am PT
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Best climbing area in the world.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 10, 2016 - 10:32am PT
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Dudes are so fast they don't even need sunscreen! ©
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Feb 10, 2016 - 01:43pm PT
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Freeing the Torre must be spectacular beyond words.
If freaking Third Pillar of Dana feels exposed to people, IMAGINE what free climbing on the Cerro FKING! Torre headwall is like. Damn. One of those things that make one dream and want to get much much better at climbing. Congrats to all those climbing in the area at the moment, it is a great spot on multiple levels.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 10, 2016 - 01:56pm PT
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The stuff of dreams
great stuff,
Anyone know what do the red dots represent ?
Now I'm totally self conscious ( thnx D2R2)
I did not mean to follow V,
this was a blind post I had stopped by this thread
As the 1st thing that I looked at at post # 6 or 7,
when I got home from a day that I want to forget,
(Bruce Springsteen traffic ruined my commute)
Ok Nuuk me but I'm no cupper....
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Feb 10, 2016 - 02:00pm PT
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Out of view, likely.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 10, 2016 - 02:04pm PT
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Oh of course, yes out of view!
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Feb 10, 2016 - 03:07pm PT
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Jaw on floor. Again. Great job gents!
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feralfae
Boulder climber
in the midst of a metaphysical mystery
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Feb 10, 2016 - 03:42pm PT
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Whoa! Impressed beyond words!
ff
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Spiny Norman
Social climber
Boring, Oregon
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Feb 10, 2016 - 06:12pm PT
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Ho-lee-shee-it. Incomprehensible, on the heels of their 21h Torre traverse.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Feb 10, 2016 - 07:00pm PT
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Bossness . . . way to go you guys! What an amazing space you two are able to visit as a result of your dedication to ascent. Thanks for your inspiration.
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