Petzel Mini Traxion for TR soloing

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locker

Trad climber
Joshua Tree Ca
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 3, 2006 - 08:00pm PT
Well, I have been using it since I saw it posted on here some time back and now I'm curious if it was just a "TROLL" and I am a bigger idiot than suspected...

(Yes I know it has TEETH and all...

But do any of you out there use it for this purpose also???...

(I am suiting up with my Armour awaiting the barrage(sp)...)

Hummerchine

Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
Nov 3, 2006 - 08:12pm PT
I use it all the time. I do not trust one, though. I attach one to my belay loop (yow!) with a DMM Belay Master carabiner, and another to a half runner girth hitched (yow again) to my harness. Weight the rope a bit, bomber. I also modified my upper Mini, use a Dremel (or in my case a dental lab drill) to remove the lockout tab on the outer aluminum plate so there is no way to accidentally lock out the cam. No worries about the teeth, I have taken numerous falls with no consequence. I have alse tested a Mini on a very old 8mm, dropping a 25lb weight many times over factor 2, since I threw the weight down. No sheath damage at all. Read all of Petzl's info that comes with the device. I often also use a Yates Screamer on the anchor, in case I fall near the anchor it will absorb any shock load due to minimal rope in the system. I have experimented with many setups and this is the best I can come up with. Good luck, be careful!
Hardly Visible

climber
Port Angeles
Nov 3, 2006 - 08:14pm PT
Locker,
I use the mini traxion for this all the time, put a little weight on the bottom of the rope and its the best little top rope belay around. I tend to use it on stuff that I have pretty wired doing laps and such.
Curt

Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
Nov 3, 2006 - 09:19pm PT
Yes. I do use my mini-traxion for that--and it works great.

Curt
Kevster

Trad climber
Evergreen, CO
Nov 4, 2006 - 10:18am PT
If you don't use 2 mini's, I would recomend running the rope through a locker below the Mini attached to your doughnut. So if you fall and the mini for some reason does not engage the biner will stop you on the backup knot you hopefully tied 20 feet from the ground. I hold the Mini up with a piece of shockcord around my neck so it engages pretty much instantly when I am off. I like the dremel idea on the locking tab, haven't done that one yet.

Oh yea, if you want a backup just tie knots in the rope and let them dangle vs clipping them to your harness. That will keep the device sliding smoothly.

When climbing on fixed or static lines I always use 2 devices as backup knots are not really an option.

Gunkie

climber
East Coast US
Nov 4, 2006 - 10:20am PT
I use a Gibbs and a Petzl Basic. Works for me.
Kevin

Social climber
Oak-town
Nov 4, 2006 - 11:14am PT
Better yet, use a gri gri

no teeth, better rope feed, and just rap when finished
WBraun

climber
Nov 4, 2006 - 11:26am PT
Grigri don't work unless you want to spend all your time fumbling with the stupid thing in the middle of a crux.

Guys here in Yosemite use the mini-traxion Kauk, surfer bob, myself, Dean Potter, etc. etc.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Nov 4, 2006 - 12:00pm PT
Never trust your life to a single solo belay device or you will END UP DEAD!

Mini-trax should be OK, provided the end of the rope is weighted and there is not any slack. You cannot fall onto a slack rope with a toothed cam or you will end up dead! But you need more than one ascender, either that, or you need to stop every now and then and tie a backup knot.

Two Gibbs ascenders are definitely better since they have no teeth. I would use the new-style ones that have the spring holding the cam shut against the rope.
Curt

Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
Nov 4, 2006 - 12:29pm PT
I guess it's fair to assume you don't do much of this, Pete. Also, the "new-style" Gibbs (with the spring) have been around at least 25 years.

Curt
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Nov 4, 2006 - 12:34pm PT
Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha!!! Touchee....

It's probably been more than twenty-five years since I made up my last Gibbs ropewalker system. Been froggin' ever since.
Anastasia

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Nov 4, 2006 - 05:05pm PT
I use my mini for soloing. I also solo climbs beneath my grade so I don't have to fall.

If I do, I would rather have the teeth damage my rope then have the device not catch.

AF
KenD

Trad climber
Palo Alto, CA
Nov 4, 2006 - 05:36pm PT
A Trango Cinch is really good for roped soloing. No teeth to damage the rope. Feeds smoothly.
locker

Trad climber
Joshua Tree Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2006 - 06:50pm PT
Nice to see that it was not a "Troll" and that I am not as much of an idiot as I was begining to believe (Jurys still out on that one actually!!!)...

I use it allot and will continue to...

Quite a few out this way insist that it will easily cut the rope and I am totally nuts for using it to TR on...

So be it!!!

"If I do, I would rather have the teeth damage my rope then have the device not catch"...


You get a big DITTO on that one young lady...
T Moses

Trad climber
Paso Robles
Nov 4, 2006 - 07:24pm PT
I use an Ushba Basic Ascender in Titanium. I tie back up knots periodically. Ultra smooth action. Only locks if you fall. You can move doe slowly (down climb). It eliminates the accidental hangdoging of the standard lockup ascender.
Bazo

Boulder climber
Ky
Nov 5, 2006 - 05:26am PT
What are the advantages of the mini traxion over the petzel shunt? ( I've been using the shunt for a while ).
Gunkie

climber
East Coast US
Nov 5, 2006 - 07:41am PT
What are the advantages of the mini traxion over the petzel shunt? ( I've been using the shunt for a while ).

JMO, but the Petzl Shunt seems to put a lot of force on a very small area of rope. Good for backing up rappels or for stopping mid-rappel, but maybe not so good in the event of a dynamic fall.

Again, just my opinion.
Landgolier

climber
the flatness
Nov 5, 2006 - 08:31am PT
Have any of you grigri/cinch users ever set things up so that the rope goes from your harness up to the anchor and then back down to the device? I saw a guy doing this once and he claimed it was somehow better, but I can't for the life of me remember why. Seems like it would be the worst of all worlds -- crappy feeding and twice as much of it to do, more risk of not locking up, etc... I guess I'm wondering if there's something I missed, or if the dude was just a Darwin Award aspirant.
reddirt

climber
Nov 5, 2006 - 01:54pm PT
I've tried many other configuation/setups (but not the mini traxion) & am a big fan of the petzl microcender (for TR). Just got a sweet deal on the silent partner & have health insurance so I'm ready to do some damage on solo lead. YIKES!
s. o.

Trad climber
academia
Nov 5, 2006 - 08:51pm PT
I've tried a gri-gri and a shunt. My vote is on the shunt because it sucks pulling the rope through the gri-gri. Also, if you have no slack in the system, then your fall is not dynamic. Annother plug for the shunt, there are no teeth and the manufacturer has instructions on how to use the device in a top-rope solo mode.
check out the instructions at en.petzl.com/ProduitsServices/PS_116_1.pdf
note that petzl advocates the basic or ascention for self belay
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