Discussion Topic |
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Highgloss
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 29, 2016 - 05:34pm PT
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Anyone live up near Strawberry? How much snow is up there and would it be possible to get to any of the south facing stuff at Lovers Leap? Sunday is looking like it might not rain.
I'm going crazy with all of this rain!
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Jan 29, 2016 - 05:36pm PT
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I don't think there is any south facing stuff at the Leap. Loaf is the call.
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Jan 29, 2016 - 05:50pm PT
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Have you looked at a forecast?
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labrat
Trad climber
Erik O. Auburn, CA
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Jan 29, 2016 - 06:13pm PT
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Detailed Forecast
TonightRain showers before 10pm, then rain and snow showers. The rain and snow could be heavy at times. Low around 30. Breezy, with a west southwest wind 20 to 22 mph, with gusts as high as 33 mph. Chance of precipitation is 100%. Total nighttime snow accumulation of 3 to 7 inches possible.
Saturday Snow showers. The snow could be heavy at times. Temperature falling to around 27 by 5pm. Southwest wind 9 to 13 mph, with gusts as high as 20 mph. Chance of precipitation is 90%. New snow accumulation of 3 to 7 inches possible.
Saturday Night
A chance of snow showers before 4am, then snow after 4am. Low around 18. South southwest wind 5 to 7 mph. Chance of precipitation is 80%. New snow accumulation of 1 to 3 inches possible.
Sunday Snow before 10am, then snow showers after 10am. High near 30. Light and variable wind. Chance of precipitation is 90%. New snow accumulation of 2 to 4 inches possible.
Sunday NightSnow showers, mainly before 4am. Low around 12. North wind around 6 mph. Chance of precipitation is 90%. New snow accumulation of 1 to 3 inches possible.
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Jan 29, 2016 - 06:31pm PT
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Should be fine.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Jan 29, 2016 - 06:35pm PT
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Bring shorts and tanning lotion, should be roaster ;-)
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Jan 29, 2016 - 06:47pm PT
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No. Find somewhere else like Consumnes.
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Highgloss
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2016 - 07:15pm PT
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Rats. I guess its not going to be nice everywhere. I have been told its possible to climb there year round. Ive done most of the stuff at consumnes rg i guess its worth another look, kinda sketchy to try to cross the river right now though.
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Highgloss
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2016 - 07:16pm PT
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Also i'm pretty sure the Hogsback is south facing ;)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 29, 2016 - 07:19pm PT
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San Francisco
If you're going to live in the sticks, climbing wise, you have to accept that you're consigned to the gym or a serious road trip, this time of year. forget about heading to the mtns.
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john hansen
climber
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Jan 29, 2016 - 07:22pm PT
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A friend and I had a great day at Cosumnes one day during an El nino storm back in the 80's. Probably rained 10 inches that day and more up in the mountains, the river was roaring. Same storm that took out the 400 ft high Auburn Coffer Dam.
Down below Dinkum and around the corner to the left, there is a five seven lie back that diagonal's up to the right. About ten feet up, a thin crack goes straight up the face. We had a tarp and the belayer was pretty dry in that somewhat protected spot. We used 9 or 10 aid placements, mostly real small stoppers and maybe a knife blade or two. We were having fun and practicing aid, so I did the first few placements and lowered off, then my friend aided up and added three or four more pieces , and lowered off.
I re aided up and put in the few pieces up to the tree growing where it tops out. Probably only 30 feet or so of aid. but we had a fun time doing it. Wonder if any one has freed that line?
Sorry for the thread drift,,, some one mentioned Consumnes and the memory came back.
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Highgloss
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2016 - 07:24pm PT
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I was in the mtns 3 weeks ago it was awesome :)
Don't be scared of a little weather.
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Highgloss
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2016 - 07:26pm PT
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I like consumnes too! last time i was there it was also raining and we almost got stuck trying to get across the river...ended up doing a bunch of top roping instead. cool place for sure!
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Trad
Trad climber
northern CA
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Leap conditions as of today:
Might not be the best conditions for climbing, but on the plus side if you like snow sports you can now rent skis or snowboards right across the street at Strawberry Station! I think they have a few snowshoes too. (Or just hang out and have a hot chocolate or beer…)
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Sugarloaf is prime in winter, when there's some sun. There are no dikes and dirt up there to hold water and snow, so it dries quickly. I've frozen my ass off at the Leap in May, though YMMV, of course.
Cosumnes is a good place to practice technique, like shoulder stands or the 400m race to the start of Dinkum.
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Thanks for the Ross Baker video
I love the idea of climbing East Wall and snowboarding down, but I won't be tossing the rack over the edge!
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Highgloss
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2016 - 04:53pm PT
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Serious disregard of the haul bag and gear :)
I have conceded to the fact that Tahoe is to snowy for my pregnant belayer and will be heading to consumnes river gorge for some milder temps this weekend.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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I don't think there is any south facing stuff at the Leap. Loaf is the call.
+1 if you are concerned about being warm and in the sun.
But if you are ready to rock in the shade and make it a proper adventure... here's from about a decade ago (I've shared these pics here before):
I tried climbing The Line in heavy mountain boots with all the kit on my back, dreaming of camping on top. Figured out quickly how impossible that was for me.
Back to normal climbing shoes, drop the pack, waltzed up and made it down the snow ok with just my climbing shoes. Built a cave at the base:
Near the tree on the slope below The Line:
Pretty spot to hang out without the crowds. My old kiwi buddy Bruce:
We had been up there a few months prior (or maybe a year and a few months?), just light cheap summer hiking boots and blue jeans, wading hip-deep in snow trying to get up to Traveler's Buttress. I recall just walking through the middle of the creek at the start because we were already soaked, and it was easier to make forward progress. Getting up that powder-filled gully approach took forever! I broke through a snow bridge near the rock wall, hanging thigh deep with leg in open air/blackness and tops of tree branches! I think we made it to the base of the climb about 2-3pm in deep winter. After all that, we were a little beat and realized we wouldn't be getting off the climb before dark, probably didn't have headlamps or jackets... called it a day as a good adventure.
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Stewart - Love the idea of ice climbing at the Leap, but will it happen again in our life time?
Nut - you camped in a snow cave at the base of the Line??
Highgloss - have you been to Mt St Helena? Hailstone rock is pretty sweet - one hour approach, 8 moderate routes, 5 star views. (pregnant belayer might not like the approach...and congrats)
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Highgloss
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2016 - 08:03pm PT
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Yes I have had a few epics at St Helena but the climbing style leaves something to be desired. I have done some routes on the bubble and some longer ones on table rock as well was pretty much everything at table scraps. I usually bring people who have never climbed before there because of the vast amount of over bolted sport climbs.
If there are any 5.9 to 5.11 cracks you can recommend there that are suitable for laps...I would be much appreciative, I find the guides to be a bit vague on this area esp table rock.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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WoW Stewart bitchin shots! any more?
i never saw that place look that good in the 10yrs i lived there..
that ice looks BLUEEEEE B^o
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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St Helena trad cracks - worth dragging the rack up for sure - most routes are in Jim Thornburg's new book, and also on MP. Happy to give you the tour. Hailstone is a 5 star day.
The Bear:
Bear crack 5.9+
Bear fingers 10a
Ursa major 5.7
Ursa minor 5.8
Bear cub 5.7
Far side:
Far thing 5.8
Lichen it 5.7
Tradfest 5.8 (link up 7 moderate pitches)
Hailstone:
Hailstone crack 5.9
Doc Holiday 5.7
East side crack 5.8
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Highgloss
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2016 - 07:38pm PT
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Thanks for the route suggestions seems like I have overlooked a lot of good stuff. Where is Hailstone area?
I would also happily take you up on the tour.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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This is a normal winter sorry it's driving you nuts.
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Highgloss
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2016 - 08:04pm PT
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Thanks Charlie. I always get a bit stir crazy dec-march :)
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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south facing stuff at the Leap
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Feb 11, 2016 - 11:23am PT
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Bring your skis.
And your parachute.
Not sure when this was filmed, but it was just posted a few days back: http://vimeo.com/154355070
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Feb 11, 2016 - 01:20pm PT
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Looks like he jumps at Psychedelic Tree? Awesome! Nice drone and editing work. TFPU
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Highgloss
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2016 - 04:49pm PT
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Cool I will keep that in mind.
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Petch
Gym climber
knapsack crack
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Feb 11, 2016 - 08:56pm PT
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Mostly climbable. All snow approaches and descents.
But the valley is where I would (went)go!
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Feb 11, 2016 - 09:38pm PT
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dang the Leap looks thin. i thought you guys been gettin dumped on?
Nice pooch:)
Which valley you climbin in? Grass Valley??
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Apr 27, 2016 - 08:25am PT
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Nice pic Dingus :)
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Apr 27, 2016 - 09:27am PT
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Brrr, looks cold. I remember freezing my ass off on April Fools, one time in May.
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adikted
Boulder climber
Tahooooeeeee
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Apr 27, 2016 - 12:57pm PT
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Going to head down there this weekend and will post pics....
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