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wannabeen
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 17, 2016 - 05:28pm PT
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Anyone know what the story is?
Chips Ahoy at the Cookie is no longer.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 18, 2016 - 07:19am PT
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Are all the bolts gone including the anchors?
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wannabeen
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2016 - 08:20am PT
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Yeah. All bolts gone. Anchor gone, but the 3 bolt Stanley Extension to the anchor of Ginger Snap is still there, and Ginger Snap anchor is still there.
Who does this?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 18, 2016 - 08:24am PT
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Let me get this straight - we got guys chopping legit routes and guys adding bolts to legit routes, right?
It's not a granite playground, it's a granite asylum!
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 18, 2016 - 08:31am PT
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The bottom bolts on Ginger Snap have been chopped years ago for some reason.
Ginger Snap had a chiseled enhanced finger pocket at the bottom crux made.
When did Chips Ahoy get chopped?
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wannabeen
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2016 - 08:40am PT
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I heard about it being chopped b4 the holidays. I just looked on Friday. McD doesn't know why or who?
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jan 18, 2016 - 09:38am PT
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The situation in the Valley is getting ridiculous.
They really need to pass a law that requires a background check - including a thorough search for any history of mental illness - before they allow someone to buy a bolt gun. Or a chisel.
Who does this?
Well, either a certain notorious person, or perhaps someone he has inspired with his narcissistic anarchy. It is quite likely that with all the talk in the Valley of "Monkey calls" and "Monkeys are sending", there is someone out there who is operating according to the dictum of, "Monkey see / Monkey do".
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 18, 2016 - 09:46am PT
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Was really worried my favorite cookies went bankrupt.
What a relief it's only some dumb dumb rock climb. Aren't there a bunch of climbs already? You climbers are so greedy needing to climb every inch of the rock face. I thought we had gyms so you didn't have to do that dangerous stuff.
THE CHOCOLATY CHIPS DELISHISH!
anatomy of the diet of a Greek God
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overwatch
climber
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Jan 18, 2016 - 09:48am PT
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You're about to go Bezerch?
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 18, 2016 - 09:53am PT
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GDavis
Chips Ahoy has been there a long time and is/was very popular climb.
Nobody is being greedy.
I'm wondering why someone would go thru this kind of trouble on an established old route that's been around for years.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Jan 18, 2016 - 10:49am PT
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Chips Ahoy is that arete-ish thing left of America's Cup etc.? That thing is killer! Hopefully someone will fill the holes…maybe they're just in between phases.
WTF??
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 18, 2016 - 10:54am PT
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Nobody is being greedy.
???
Then how do you explain this?
looks like all the climbing you'll ever need to do no need to unnecessarily scar the cliff face with pitons and clips anymore than they are!
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Jan 18, 2016 - 11:13am PT
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Does anyone know if the bolts were just removed or were they broken off in the hole?
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RyanD
climber
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Jan 18, 2016 - 11:17am PT
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This thread will fix everything, guaranteed.
Sloan?!?!
Laughing my fukking head off.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Jan 18, 2016 - 11:23am PT
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Leave Erik alone, he doesn't do sh#t like that
(and to be fair, actually brags about never climbing at the Cookie).
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 18, 2016 - 11:30am PT
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never climbing at the Cookie
well, yeah. Not a lot of 5.8's there ;D
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c wilmot
climber
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Jan 18, 2016 - 11:56am PT
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I really dont care- but Swan Slab is full of young kids and new climbers learning the sport. I used to pass many there after a day of work. I always enjoyed seeing the smiles on peoples faces as they pushed their boundaries.
whats greedy is having fat tourists misriding broken mules for money while they defecate all over the trail
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overwatch
climber
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Jan 18, 2016 - 12:08pm PT
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New name Chops Ahoy
clips?
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 18, 2016 - 01:42pm PT
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Swan slab has the best climbing in the valley, bar none. When you consider approach and difficulties involved, El Cap is basically a choss pile far from the road for aid climbers. Lenas Lieback is where its at!!!!!!!!!!!
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wannabeen
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2016 - 04:56pm PT
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Sounds like no one knows anything.
I was hoping to figure out who it was and why.
End of thread as far as I'm concerned.
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John M
climber
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Jan 18, 2016 - 05:04pm PT
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End of thread as far as I'm concerned.
It often takes more then a few days for the word to get around and for someone to find out. Spreading the word is a good thing in my opinion. Thats how we self police.
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overwatch
climber
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Jan 18, 2016 - 05:08pm PT
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Yeah, agreed, don't go deleting just because there was no instant gratification and a few wankers wanked.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Jan 18, 2016 - 05:27pm PT
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I thought the thread was about this
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Jan 18, 2016 - 05:28pm PT
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Chipping. The thought of it hurts my head. What kind of retard chips away at the rock to enhance a hold?
That's a hard road to walk down.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 18, 2016 - 05:31pm PT
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You'd be surprised how much rock enhancement was done in Yosemite over the years .....
Just take the Nose free for example.
Outright full blown manufactured holds made on the Jardine Traverse.
Jardine was a chipping enhancement machine everywhere he went ......
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Jan 18, 2016 - 05:39pm PT
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You'd be surprised how much rock enhancement was done in Yosemite over the years .....
No. I'm pretty sure at least 96.8% of the routes I ever did in the valley were enhanced by the time I got to them.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 18, 2016 - 05:43pm PT
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Not the same ^^^^^
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ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
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Jan 18, 2016 - 09:44pm PT
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someone knows. speak up
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jan 19, 2016 - 12:32am PT
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What kind of retard chips away at the rock to enhance a hold?
Way back when, climbers were not always as astute as they are now, regarding preservation and avoiding permanent damage to the rock. Go check out Serenity Crack, behind the Mr. Majestyk Mountain Motel, sometime. Not much serenity there, at all. The route is a closely-spaced ladder of holes that were excavated with big, tied-off angles. It used to be a "worthless" rotten seam that took RURPs, KBs and thin LAs. Relegated to Trash Status, it was a mild aid practice line for a generation's worth of lazy afternoons. Today, it offers free-climbing access to the Sons of Yesterday cracks above, and that is the only reason anybody climbs Serenity, at all, these days. If it hadn't been pounded out with innumerable pitons, no route would exist there, at all.
Elsewhere in the Valley, such "retards" as Harding, Bridwell, Bard, Porter, etc., are rumored (or known, depending on whom you ask) to have altered the rock to make ascents possible, or at least easier. And, not just bolts and rivets, but full-blown chiseling and chipping and pinning-out and pounding away with big, heavy piton hammers. Jardine is typically the only one demonized for chipping, but only because his Nose Traverse is so notorious. Who bitches and moans about Outer Limits, these days? Did you know that Bridwell also took a hammer to Wheat Thin? On rappel, no less, while rap-bolting that pitch?
Today, people are much less likely to engage in chipping and chiseling. There are many more climbers, and there is a greater awareness of how limited the rock resource is. There is no such thing as a "worthless, rotten seam" anywhere in the Valley, anymore.
Also, because routes, like the Nose, are already all pounded out, they can be free climbed. The chipping and chiseling and pinning-out has already been done. So, isn't that a good thing? Free climbing is where it's at, right? So, now that many, many cracks in the Valley have been totally pounded out into fingerlock ladders, they've been properly prepared for modern sport climbers.
Maybe someone high-balled Chips Ahoy, and decided that was the new norm, for everyone - CHOP-CHOP-CHOP - No more ropes, you dopes. Get with the program.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 19, 2016 - 08:33am PT
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when the Valley is cutting edge (it waxes and wanes with time) it is a laboratory for style in First Ascents... these "experiments" appear throughout and are testament to the generational dynamics the mold climbing there in the various eras and epochs.
there was a time when chipping wasn't the abomination we now consider it to be... a repulsion that is born of these initial exercises that explored the stylistic boundaries.
I don't condemn the experiments... but once we see that they are not the way, not acceptable style, it is entirely proper to condemn their continued use.
The routes may still be fun to climb. One should not be disingenuous...
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 19, 2016 - 08:51am PT
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There was no experiments in blatant chipping on free climbing routes ever.
It was always condemned.
The pin job that was done on Freestone was condemned right off the bat before it was even started.
It was overruled and the perpetrator went ahead did the job despite being sincerely asked not to do it.
Jardine's tactics were all over the nose not just on the traverse.
He chiseled everywhere on free climbs he did.
People just got the best of themselves and just had to make it go.
That my friends is our frail human traits as defective conditioned souls ......
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Jan 19, 2016 - 09:03am PT
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Tom,
With all due respect, comparing the act of manufacturing a hand hold, on an established free route no less, and the hindsight harm produced by "unclean" aid climbing is a bridge too far for me.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jan 19, 2016 - 09:11am PT
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there was a time when chipping wasn't the abomination we now consider it to be...
I'd say that the sentiment on chipping and route enhancement has followed a more complex history:
* not worried about too much (up to late 60s)
* condemned pretty strongly by word at least (70s and early 80s)
* practiced more or less in the open by a minority on a fairly regular basis (late 80s to 2000s: sika, drilled pockets, etc.)
* is again mostly condemned, but is still present in the form of aggressive cleaning (boulder problems getting easier due to "brushing")
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wannabeen
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2016 - 09:54am PT
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Well, shortly after posting, I made a joke with my buddy that the thread would quickly devolve into a name calling, political, ethics, gun argument.
I definitely didn't forsee a chiseling discussion.
Interesting.
At the least, this is a bump.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Jan 19, 2016 - 11:38am PT
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Yeah I think the name just has to do with some teensy granite flakes on a cliff called the Cookie. If It was manufactured they sure could've made 'em a little bigger! Think it's .12b or so and definitely a bit bouldery up on the arete at the top.
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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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Jan 19, 2016 - 01:51pm PT
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Lets just go ahead and blame Sloan.
He chipped and chopped the route I personally guarantee it.
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Edwardmw
climber
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Jan 19, 2016 - 05:32pm PT
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brotherbbock, I would say it was not Sloan. He does not chop bolts off routes at the Cookie, in fact I have never seen Sloan at the Cookie in 15 years.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jan 22, 2016 - 08:46am PT
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Anybody have any idea on why the route was chopped?
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cuvvy
Sport climber
arkansas
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Jan 22, 2016 - 12:25pm PT
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One day, in the next decade. I would like to visit Yosemite.Anywhere there is a list of routes compiled where idiots have chipped their way upwards? I will avoid these routes.
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wannabeen
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2016 - 02:35pm PT
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Chips Ahoy was put up ground up, on lead, in the best style.
It is not chiseled, chipped or enhanced. This is a subject for another thread.
It's a mystery as to why it was chopped. People who climb the grade love it, and I can't imagine anyone climbing it, then chopping it.
If u want to make a statement about bolts, go big, chop all those dozens of bolts on the Salathe that have gone in since Robbins clambered up it. See what kind of response you'll get then.
Chopping an insignificant route at the Cookie is not much of a statement.
Tho I'd still slap the chopper in the nuts.
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Highgloss
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jan 22, 2016 - 04:28pm PT
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Is it fixable? Could it be re-bolted or is that bad practice?
What a bummer, sounds like it was a sweet route.
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ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
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Jan 22, 2016 - 05:41pm PT
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this is the most interesting thing that has happened in our community in 2016. but seriously, why??
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bootysatva
Trad climber
Idyllwild / Joshua Tree Ca.
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We need a wall around Yosemite.
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WBraun
climber
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The bolts fell out by "Chance"
There's no intelligence required to put them in or to take them out.
It all happened by "Chance" ........
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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It's possible that some nature loving local ...
That must be it. That damned Smoking Duck.
(Ho sh#t, I didn't realize that Duck just posted...)
Or maybe it was a mistake, and they thought it was that rap-bolted and chipped Wheat Thin.
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melski
Trad climber
bytheriver
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maybe werners right,,the old bolts been gone along time and someone new is shortsighted,,just saying,,bottom of the route,,
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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The bolts fell out by "Chance"
There's no intelligence required to put them in or to take them out.
It all happened by "Chance" ........
There is a "Chance" that WB is dropping a hint here?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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hahhahaha now I bet people are praying for Sloan and his Powerdrill to show up! LOL
How about the first bolt on America's Cup, still there?? That move is well protected by placing a hook on the right crimp. Duct tape and send. Brah.
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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who is oliver? is that a real accusation?
it is puzzling that someone would chop chips ahoy. a ground up, hand drilled route, put up ages ago.
it is too bad that who ever had the conviction to try to erase such a route doesn't have the conviction to admit it and explain their actions.
i am sure they have their reasons, and they floated around their brain for a bit. too bad they weren't able to have a discussion with someone outside of their realm to see if their ideas had merit. we all think we are right. it takes an intelligent person to be willing to question their own opinions, consult others and actually be willing to change based on outside thoughts. or in the case that their ideas did have merit, they are able to explain to others in a way that it makes sence. chopping bolts without fessing up seems cowardly.
the old men in town have bad elbows and better things to do than replace chopped bolts.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Much easier to destroy than create.
I may be able to replace them if I make it out to the valley later this winter/spring. But I have never re-placed bolts before, only placed.
So does anyone know if the bolts here were cut or got out leaving a re-useable hole? If anyone has any tips on the best way to do this email me.
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