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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Dec 31, 2015 - 07:21pm PT
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Baxters in 86 Don't really have many photos of climbing in tetons. most stuff got lost or was with other partners....
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Dec 31, 2015 - 07:54pm PT
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^^^^^
. . . and I top roped one afternoon at a local limestone crag, which was about 60 to 100 foot high, but I can't remember the name of it. Only time I ever climbed that stuff, steep with sharp in-cut holds and tiny ragged pockets. It was finger shredding vertical face climbing kind of like Owens River Gorge but on white limestone instead
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Bushman
Social climber
Elk Grove, California
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Dec 31, 2015 - 10:54pm PT
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Blacktail Butte, that was it. Thank you Mr. Gill. It was a popular place, even back then, which wasn't really so long ago considering you must have been soloing there fifty or more years ago.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Tetons is where I got the climbing bug in 81-82 but i never did any roped climbing that year. I was a total noob!
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Here's another one I found from Mike Ruth (Exum guide) from the late 90's. It's right of the Jackson/Woodmancy on the north face of Middle Teton
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Tradman, I think your shot of the main peaks is from Baxter's, because here's the view from the Guide's Wall, which is pretty much directly opposite Mt. Owen:
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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rgold
those are some rockin' photos
everyone is posting great stuff
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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I don't know if we went to guides wall or something else? I remember following directions or getting directions from a guide to a 2 pitch 5.7 somewhere but i don't remember the view and have no photos of it? The photos of martha on the way to climb would that have been the start of the hike to baxters? pretty shure the climbing shots were definatly on baxters. I remember takeing my shirt off and martha haveing a hard time cleaning a red tricam on that last steep pitch to the summit. It took her quite awhile and I got a richly deserved sunburn after giving her a hard time about being slow cleaning the pitch.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Something in Cascade Canyon around 2001
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hellroaring
Trad climber
San Francisco
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In the summer of 1989 I was working in Yellowstone. A buddy of mine was fresh off one of those semester in the Rockies courses at NOLS. At the time I had never climbed a thing & was petrified of heights. Somehow he talked me and a few others to go and give the Middle Teton a try. The noob factor of the group was off the charts.
We rented ice axes at Moose Junction, and our NOLS friend gave us a short tutorial at our campsite in Garnet Canyon on how to self arrest. He never said or demonstrated the concept of using the ice axe for self-belay purposes & that self arrest is a last resort after screwing up. The route itself wasn't technical but it was early summer and we did have to cross several steep snow fields that sat above cliffs.
We all made it up to the summit and back. A couple of us, myself included, did indeed slip & self arrested. I remember being surprised at how quickly you gained momentum, especially while wearing nylon wind pants! When we got back down to the trailhead I saw an informational sign that I had missed on the hike in, that warned tourists that a slip on steep snow could easily prove fatal. I realized at that moment how much dumb luck had been our friend.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Teton Minutiae: Red Sentinel North Face:
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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It's great to see a thread about the Tetons. I think it was 1955 that I was in the park for the first time and joined several members of the Princeton Mountaineering Club for the east face of Teewinot. I had just come from Georgia and thought I was in fair condition, but the bushwhack up and lengthy scramble did me in. I can't recall us finding a path through the brush and trees to timberline.
In the latter 1950s I would sneak up onto the south face of Storm Point and explore new climbs by myself. I don't recall the fine for solo climbing, but I never had to pay it, although I was discovered doing the back side of Baxter's Pinnacle one time. Incidentally, after Baxter and crew aided the spire it was lost for many years until I saw its profile in the setting sun one day, and a friend and I scrambled up to it the next day. I told Yvon about it and he went up and climbed it with Ken Weeks(?) or someone, using a spot of aid. It seems like Kamps & party went up and freed it, and then I freed the DA crack. It's in a guidebook somewhere but I'm too lazy to look it up.
Nice memories.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Richard,
Your photo of Mt. Owen clearly shows Run-Don't-Walk Couloir, which brings back memories. Yvon Chouinard invited me along on an attempt to climb it in 1971, but after a bivouac Yvon decided it wasn't in condition. The next year, I went back with John Bouchard, and bagged the 1st ascent.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Our shadows on the way to the S. Ridge of Nez Perce. I think it is Buck Mountain in the background...
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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The Red Sentinel. Cool. You don't see photos of that often...
Steve A let's see some photos of the Run Don't Walk. Here's one from a failed attempt around 2000
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Here's a better distance view of the Walk-Don't-Run couloir:
Taken late June I think.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Here's a few from the South Buttress Drifter and the Kelley/Beyer on the South Buttress of Mount Moran. Both really good routes...
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Rgold,
Thanks so much for that enhanced photo of "Run-Don't Walk", on Mt. Owen!
It is a nice New Years gift, since I've never seen that view before. I remember where that ice shute really narrows down, seen in the photo, it's close to vertical, and really narrow, about 10 feet wide. On the 1st ascent, something about the size of a refrigerator, came thru that narrow slot, and just missed us, ha, ha.
I still need to scan most of my slides from BITD, but will keep procrastinating.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Here's my humble contribution to this great thread. I had the chance to climb The Grand for my 60th birthday.
Ah, to be young again!
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Hi Phil,
Yes, it is a beautiful place. Have a great 2016!
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