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katiebird
climber
yosemite
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 11, 2015 - 06:26pm PT
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https://vimeo.com/146140263
For those who may be interested here is a short of a beautiful, Tuolumne test-piece filmed and edited by Ben Ditto and Owen Bissell. First put up by Ron Kauk some years ago, this little route stands true to it's hard, technical nature.
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couchmaster
climber
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Dec 11, 2015 - 06:33pm PT
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Great video and great job. Thats the kind of tiny holds us arthritic fingered fat old dudes wince from just watching someone else climb. Awesome stuff, thanks for sharing it!!
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Dec 11, 2015 - 06:52pm PT
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Super proud!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Dec 11, 2015 - 07:56pm PT
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What it's about..that's climbing.
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On-Site Flasher 69
Sport climber
Riverside
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Dec 11, 2015 - 09:48pm PT
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That was very cool! Thanks for filming that.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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Dec 12, 2015 - 12:02am PT
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ps. Vimeo sure is hard to watch on a sketch connection.
On Vimeo, if you click the "HD" logo on the bottom panel you can change the resolution (270p to 1080p) to get better streaming.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Dec 12, 2015 - 09:45am PT
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There was also a old TV show called Broken Arrow!! He was my dads friend and Tennis partner, cool guy!.
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toejahm
Trad climber
Chatsworth, CA
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Dec 12, 2015 - 10:50am PT
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Kudos for the send Katie and a well done video!
Peace,
kr
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 12, 2015 - 04:12pm PT
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Nice footage!
Great looking rock...and climbing...wow...fun!
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Dec 12, 2015 - 06:52pm PT
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PP.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Dec 12, 2015 - 09:04pm PT
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Hell yes. That was great. Can a crack get much thinner and still be sent?
Meltdown second ascent, you got it OP!
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clifff
Mountain climber
golden, rollin hills of California
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Dec 13, 2015 - 01:30pm PT
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Nice send. Excellent video. Thanks!
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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Dec 13, 2015 - 05:16pm PT
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Front page bump-
Good job!
just what Supertopo needs these days...
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Dec 13, 2015 - 05:31pm PT
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Awesome, Katie!
Looks ridiculously hard.
Nice to think about those long TM days at this time of year.
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Dec 13, 2015 - 05:34pm PT
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Very nice! Thanks for posting.
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WanderlustMD
Trad climber
New England
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Dec 13, 2015 - 05:37pm PT
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I hiked out to this over the summer and what an amazing line. Lovely area as well. Nice job on the send, super proud.
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Mei
Trad climber
I'm back!
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Dec 13, 2015 - 09:19pm PT
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I find it very inspiring to watch a female climber pushing the trad climbing frontier. Thanks for sharing the excellent video.
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Bad Climber
climber
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Dec 14, 2015 - 06:33am PT
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Wow. Thanks for an excellent video. What a route!
BAd
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overwatch
climber
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Dec 14, 2015 - 06:41am PT
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Thanks for the post. Very tenacious and she sounds so young.
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H
Mountain climber
there and back again
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Dec 14, 2015 - 08:08am PT
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Nice job Katie. You sailed right up that thing.
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hamersorethumb
Trad climber
Menlo Park, CA
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Dec 14, 2015 - 10:50am PT
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Awesome.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Dec 14, 2015 - 11:08am PT
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Great video. Good job! Keep posting these gems up!
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Dec 14, 2015 - 03:35pm PT
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Who called it traditional?
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Bob Harrington
climber
Bishop, California
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Dec 14, 2015 - 03:40pm PT
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They may not be purist, but those tactics are certainly traditional in the sense that they've got a long history of use.
Great video and nice low-key narration.
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Bob Harrington
climber
Bishop, California
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Dec 14, 2015 - 04:12pm PT
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I see your point. There isn't much difference between bolts and pre-placed wires unless the wires are bad, which would be so contrived it would defy categorization. I guess it's all just climbing.
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katiebird
climber
yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2015 - 04:47pm PT
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To address a few typical topics here: there was no "coaching" done on this route; Just normal attempts at red-pointing on my own time, with my own friends and my own beta. Its a route protected by wires and bolts, there need not be any discrepancy. Unless your a real magician at holding onto half pad edges with even smaller feet and placing tiny wires in weird, hard to protect, parallel spaces, then it is a dangerous undertaking to try and protect this route on lead. I've climbing on Rodden's Meltdown quite a bit and that was even easier to protect on lead. So, there you have it, its a crack that has 2 bolts and was originally established on pre-placed gear. It makes sense to climb it this way, it's a lovely route, its hard as sh#t and people should give it a try if they're psyched.
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mikeyschaefer
climber
Sport-o-land
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Dec 14, 2015 - 04:49pm PT
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Good job Katie! Looks fun.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Dec 14, 2015 - 06:16pm PT
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Sometimes I feel like I have power coursing through my fingers,
but I felt weak and flaccid looking at that. Nice job!
Also, looks like a nice spot to hang out while paying your dues to get the send.
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Mei
Trad climber
I'm back!
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Dec 14, 2015 - 06:41pm PT
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Someone upthread commented on it being on the frontier of trad climbing. Hmmm... That's me. I see your point of disagreement with me, and can be easily convinced. According to Wikipedia: "Traditional climbing, or trad climbing, is a style of rock climbing in which a climber or group of climbers place all gear required to protect against falls, and removes it when a passage is complete."
I'm inspired all the same. That's a climb that requires impeccable thin crack climbing technique. (I also understand that high grade crack climbing resembles hard face climbing. There, I said it first.)
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Dec 14, 2015 - 06:47pm PT
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Absolutely bitchen climbing, for sure. Myself, I just want to swim in that river.
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Mei
Trad climber
I'm back!
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Dec 14, 2015 - 07:31pm PT
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Here is the wiki link: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Traditional_climbing
It's more comprehensive than what I quoted. And you can contribute with your knowledge.
When I think more about it, I feel that the term "trad" should convey a sense of adventure, which does not disagree with the elaboration in the previous post.
Now, back to Katie's ascent... was that an FFA?
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Just when somebody starts to cringe, FFA here is First Female Ascent! :D
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Dogtown.
Trad climber
Marshell islands atoll
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What Couchmaster said! 1/4 pad holds, I trust your hands are a bit on the small side too? well done! As always Style comes into play when in conversation. From what I observed in the video, it was done as a (Siege Red Point) done over time. Most all of us have done routes in this style. I have no problem with these tactics. 5.13 flashes are not all that common in my world but have happen to everyone's amazement. Looks to me your next step is to finish it off, do the climb again and place the wire stoppers on the lead with no falls. Happy to see there was not a line of bolts next to that nice crack.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 20, 2017 - 10:40am PT
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The bump of this thread sent me looking for more of her videos. I came across:
https://www.climbing.com/videos/katie-lambert-birds-perspective/
and found it an interesting combination of inspiring and poignant.
If Katie's out there: it looked like a bit of runout to the anchors on Bird's Perspective and how's the ankle?
Darwin
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Nov 20, 2017 - 10:54am PT
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I've climbed on Rodden's Meltdown quite a bit and that was even easier to protect on lead.
Somebody is going to get the second on this at some point. Will it take longer than the 12(?) years it took to repeat Hill's Nose free?
Killer video of LK placing gear on the lead. Just so composed and steady. Give me that man's head, skill, and strength for one day, and a psyched belayer, then set me at the foot of El Niño or the Free Muir, and let me go!
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Nov 20, 2017 - 04:04pm PT
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That is some great stuff ,never wished I could be 100 pounds before.
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Nov 21, 2017 - 04:31pm PT
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Olmstead Point has produced many of the best cracks in Tuolumne, and this looks like a good one. While it is an impressive effort, I have to agree with the Warbler, who said:[quote]I have nothing against those tactics, but they're far from traditional[quote).
Someone up-thread quoted a Wikipedia definition of "Traditional" climbing, but it is important to remember that Wikipedia is opinion only, and has no academic standing. Anyone can edit Wikipedia, and someone else can re-edit it the next day. A modern opinion of trad is quite different that the traditional definition of traditional. Lonnie Kauk's video shows a real trad ascent, with gear clipped and placed on the lead.
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Nov 21, 2017 - 04:32pm PT
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Olmstead Point has produced many of the best cracks in Tuolumne, and this looks like a good one. While it is an impressive effort, I have to agree with the Warbler, who said:"I have nothing against those tactics, but they're far from traditional".
Someone up-thread quoted a Wikipedia definition of "Traditional" climbing, but it is important to remember that Wikipedia is opinion only, and has no academic standing. Anyone can edit Wikipedia, and someone else can re-edit it the next day. A modern opinion of trad is quite different than the traditional definition of traditional. Lonnie Kauk's video shows a real trad ascent, with gear clipped and placed on the lead in a single push.
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Mei
Trad climber
mxi2000.net
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Nov 21, 2017 - 05:46pm PT
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Lonnie Kauk's video shows a real trad ascent, with gear clipped and placed on the lead in a single push.
Following question comes from someone whose favorite form of climbing is following long multi-pitch climbs, so it’s by no means criticism in any shape or form. I think both Katie’s and Lonnie’s ascents were remarkable, but since the “pure” tactic is so highly emphasized and celebrated here, can anyone explain the two clips at 3’13” and 4’27” in Lonnie’s video? Can’t see details, but the biners appeared to be already in place when he climbed up to them, no?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Nov 21, 2017 - 07:47pm PT
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Olmstead Cyn was on my radar for a time, back in '71, but no one considered it worth the drive/walk among those with whom I climbed. It's a beauty spot, for sure. Really special places are one of the things I appreciate most about climbing.
Katie, don't let these guys make you feel you need do something you don't feel safe doing. (I know I'm preaching to the choir.)
Lonnie's just like his dad, a crazy-talented climber, period.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 22, 2017 - 10:27am PT
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Thanks for the bump..... great videos.
"Ho Ho man.... just like an electronic spook"
nothing like 5.13D videos to get me up for some 5.9D sends.
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| Messages 1 - 43 of total 43 in this topic |
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