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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2016 - 10:02am PT
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Earlier, Oplopanax took issue with my statement that Jon Krakauer made a solo first ascent on the Devil's Thumb. I did err when I said it was the East Ridge of the Devil's Thumb, but I was right about the solo first ascent.
A very reliable source informs me that he made the first ascent of the south east face, a line independent of the ridge that Beckey climbed during the first ascent of the mountain. It was done in the spring, so it was primarily an ice climb.
It was first reported in Ken Wilson's Mountain Magazine.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Jun 10, 2016 - 10:32am PT
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Isn't rapping to advance aid?
;)
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The Alpine
climber
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Jun 10, 2016 - 02:44pm PT
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I believe Dean Potter Onsight solo fa'ed some 5.13 in Utah called King Tut and also a 13+ called the Crippler. Both at Mill Creek.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jun 10, 2016 - 03:23pm PT
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Pete Cleveland? Seems like, besides the S Dak needles, he did some difficult FA's in the Devil's Lake area solo?
Gill on the Thimble. Yikes.
//Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Colombia
(reportedly the tallest coastal mountain range in the world//
I hear that from time-to-time. Tops out at 16k feet or so? St. Elias is spittin' distance to the ocean and 18k? Dunno.
Paul Preuss for sure.
Flying Dutchman on the Sail in LCC by Jack Roberts. Damn thin and rated 5.9 at the time. I think the kids call it 5.10c now. Good route. Not a boulder problem! Edit to add: 1976.
A solo FA that's always impressed me is the Exum Ridge in the Tetons. Glenn "never a bad word or a twisted rope" Exum in 1931? Reclimbed it again last summer (I'd solo'd it in 1985 and didn't give it much of a thought...ahhh...youth) and thought...yowser. That step across move kinda got my attention more than I'd remember...
Waterman's climb on Hunter? Maybe self belayed...
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jun 10, 2016 - 07:59pm PT
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Did one myself-
Wouldn't call it a unicorn though...
perhaps a donkey with a lump on its forehead.
Moist-n-Meaty 5.9
Basically a highball v0- boulder problem to an easy topout at 80ft or so.
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Aeriq
Social climber
Location: It's a MisterE
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Horny Horse Bump.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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The FA of the South face of Takar-Go East
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Werner Braun (Wbraun here on ST ) first climbed Werner's Wiggle (5.8), July 1971, on Lembert Dome. Jeff Dozier and I did the 2nd ascent and added several bolts. This was interesting in that back then, Werner had no formal knowledge of rock climbing and did this in work boots!
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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No sh!t!?
Werner's Wiggle, that thing is a total friction fest. It's the Water Crack's big brother . . . Sheesh, you people are crazy . . .
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DrDeeg
Mountain climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Jan 27, 2019 - 08:04pm PT
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Got to include Hermann Buhl's first ascent of Nanga Parbat in 1953, "free solo" from the highest camp over unknown terrain. On the way back, he spent the night above 8000 m standing on a sloping ledge. In 1957, he did the first ascent of another 8000+ m: Broad Peak. On the same expedition he died on Chogolisa when a cornice broke.
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johntp
Trad climber
By decision or indecision we are where we are.
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Jan 27, 2019 - 09:33pm PT
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How about Vitaliy M's sole of Widows Tears (oops, not a first aseent, but still impressive). Jeff Lowe soloed a few ice climbs as well.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jan 27, 2019 - 09:34pm PT
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There are many versions of free solo first ascents . . . Buhl's are hard to comprehend even in this time.
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seano
Mountain climber
none
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Jan 27, 2019 - 11:17pm PT
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Edward Abbey, The Knife Edge in the Sandia Mountains was an free solo FA. I did some research on early Sandias climbing awhile back, and I'm pretty sure someone was there before him. Abbey was born in 1927, and it seems that the easier Sandia formations were regularly climbed by the early 1930s (and first climbed possibly as early as the late 1800s). Indeed, the first Sandia climbing fatality was on the Knife Edge in 1938.
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Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
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Jan 28, 2019 - 06:34am PT
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"Gymnastics" (5.9) in Taylor Canyon north of Gunnison was solo first ascended.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Jan 28, 2019 - 10:18am PT
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To clarify on Dean's thing in Mill Creek (King Tut?): he worked out a v7-ish new highball start into an established 11+ which he had previously climbed, and it thus was an "onsight free solo 5.13" only in the sense that he never weighted a rope. I believe it was the folks who wrote the Wild Things ad copy who gave it that appellation.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jan 28, 2019 - 01:39pm PT
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That "someone" that solo'd the FA on Gymnastics was Mr. Nick Danger himself, just so ya know.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 28, 2019 - 02:57pm PT
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This one too, though in summer
(shaded line at left)
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Oldfattradguy2
Trad climber
Here and there
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Jan 28, 2019 - 06:11pm PT
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Bumper sheep, 5.6 , Lamoille Canyon, NV by yours truly, we bolted it at a later date. Guidebook came out at some point and renamed it.
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