Needless bolts left on Castleton Tower...

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Messages 1 - 90 of total 90 in this topic
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 23, 2015 - 08:08pm PT
The folks that rigged the highline from Castleton Tower to the Rectory five days ago left some large (probably 3/4 in.) bolts behind. Funny thing, a similar high line was rigged in 1999 with no bolts placed.
Some unsuspecting climbers needed a Helicopter rescue on Saturday night because they confused the bolts for rap snchors and were stranded. The argument could be made that they should have known better (the bolts were not equipped for rope retreival) and/or should have been able to self rescue but the point is the bolts should not have been there.
Castleton Tower is the most iconic tower in the Utah desert, let's treat it right. If you place bolts arguably not needed (they didn't need them in 1999) at least clean up your mess. As it stands those bolts are there with no other purpose except, perhaps, to lure inexperienced climbers into potentially dangerous situations.
If your neighbor's dog shits on your lawn you would expect him to clean up the mess.

Ooops....the neighbor, not the dog.
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Nov 23, 2015 - 08:12pm PT
Sounds fugly.
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Nov 23, 2015 - 08:15pm PT
Donini! I appreciate your concern, and it does seem more than reasonable to clean those bolts & hide the holes.

However, re your last thoughts:

If your neighbor's dog shits on your lawn you would expect him to clean up the mess.


It does appears there are lots of people that think differently about cleaning up their, or their dog's shitt these daze.
couchmaster

climber
Nov 23, 2015 - 08:18pm PT

Right on Jim! I get that no one wants to clip off on Kor's old 1/4" spinners, but we've all seen the shitload of bolts that slackers place to feel secure. Why trash the place though? Hopefully the internet will show others that they can tie their lines off with out bolts, and save the day and the rock for future climbers and slackers.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 23, 2015 - 08:24pm PT
Anyone know more about the incident? Who they were?
Pm me
Cragar

climber
MSLA - MT
Nov 23, 2015 - 08:25pm PT
Good post and totally correct. The lifestylers do not seem to have the respect for the space or feel the need to pick up after their perfect selves.

Edit: maybe they plan to remove them when they run out of themselves on Spraybook?
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
Nov 23, 2015 - 08:26pm PT

Susan
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2015 - 08:28pm PT
Evidently the highline set up reulted in a world record by a Theo Sanson from France. Kudos to Theo, an amazing feat, but it seems that worldclass athletes seem to feel that they can use iconic natural features (remember David Lama on Cerro Torre) with little thought about leaving them as they found them.

Is it a sense of entitlement?
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2015 - 08:50pm PT
The point is bolts left on cuttion edge routes still have some purpose, someone might use them to repeat the route.
The bolts left on Castleton serve no purpose, the slackline has been removed. It took only a few days before unsuspecting (and apparently inexperienced) climbers used them resulting in an expensive nightime rescue.
I'm not trying to contrast high lining and climbing.....I also included the example of David Lama whose film team placed bolts only for the purpose of filming.
Banquo

climber
Amerricka
Nov 23, 2015 - 09:05pm PT
So, the usual big corporate sponsorship redbull bullshit sellout?

Apparently, from their "who we are" webpage, they are range rover:

http://camp4collective.com/who-we-are/

i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Nov 23, 2015 - 09:24pm PT
Maybe just throw some more bolts in lower so you're not rapping to nowhere.
Banquo

climber
Amerricka
Nov 23, 2015 - 09:31pm PT
Does "Camp 4 Collective" smack of cheap capitalization?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 23, 2015 - 09:41pm PT
of course
hossjulia

Trad climber
Carson City, NV
Nov 23, 2015 - 09:52pm PT
My very first thought when I saw that slack line and where it was. "I wonder how they rigged that?" Followed by, oh crap, how DID they rig that!? There must be huge stresses involved, perhaps enough to lever off the top of that tower? Obviously not, but it got me thinking. I figured they would have wrapped it up somehow. Like slinging a big horn. Never figured they'd use bolts at all.

Good post.


johntp

Trad climber
socal
Nov 23, 2015 - 09:54pm PT
SC seagoat-

Funny!
Lurkingtard

climber
Nov 23, 2015 - 10:51pm PT
Lol. If you're dumb enough to rap off of new slack anchors then you're f*#king stupid.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 23, 2015 - 10:52pm PT
too bad, really, that this had to happen.

It is not uncommon for these sorts of rigging features to be erected for a particular event and left. There are photog bolt stations in Yosemite Valley placed for shoots of high profile climbers, generally festooned with fixed lines which are usually removed after the fact... the bolts remain, to be removed by the locals who object.

In many ways such alterations aren't much of a nuisance, but "off route" bolts can draws unsuspecting climbers'. And those who fall for them are often least capable of dealing with the consequences.

We can probably only have the conviction that we personally would not leave the mess if it were us (or not make a mess in the first place)... the question is why wilderness visitors would just leave the mess there.

When it happens, public shaming isn't a bad way to draw unwanted attention, and it often gets a response from the mess makers, who generally rectifying the problem by cleaning up.

Loud voices from prominent figures chastising the behavior is very helpful, "a teachable moment," requires a teacher.

Hopefully the bolts will be removed, even more, a lesson will be learned by all of us. Refresher courses have their usefulness.

Let's not loose this wilderness we hold so dear to our inconsiderate behavior.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
Nov 23, 2015 - 10:59pm PT
Good points all,
As an aside my dog eats its own poop, so some dogs DO clean up,after themselves 😜
Ljohnson

Social climber
The land of ice, snow and rocks
Nov 23, 2015 - 11:10pm PT
Not the first time this has happened out there, nor will it be the last.

About 10 years ago I counted 16 bolts placed at Gemini Bridges for a slackline. Seemed pretty egregious especially when there were plenty of suitable places for nest(s) of clean pro.

Then a few years ago this guy Andy something or other placed a bunch on the Titan to link a slackline to the finger of fate. Had a pretty tense interaction with the guy when my friend confronted him about it at a bar in Vail during the Go-Pro games. To Andy's credit he admitted that his climbing friends told him that nobody would care about extra bolts in the Fishers. After we made it pretty clear that we cared, he apologized and encouraged us to chop them (sadly I haven't been back to the Titan since.)

I understand that slacklines generate a huge amount of force on anchors, (thereby requiring extra beefy anchors) but why is it acceptable to bolt for slacklines when climbing anchors are heavily scrutinized in the same areas?

GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Nov 23, 2015 - 11:17pm PT
To protest said atrocity I vow to stay off instagram for one whole week and will unfollow Camp4 productions and no longer use XA Pro as a filter.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Nov 24, 2015 - 12:06am PT
Do we really need another whining thread about bolts that nobody's gonna do anything about?

Your drain plugged with another tempest in a teapot?

Just call Woto Wooter.
colin rowe

Trad climber
scotland uk
Nov 24, 2015 - 01:32am PT
As you know Jim the placement and use of bolts is a ubiquitous practice in France. Chamonix is a good example of unnecessary bolt placement next to substantial granite cracks. What is objectionable is the presupposition that it is an except able practice elsewhere where bolt placement is subject to scrutiny. Perhaps such practices are a legacy of French imperialism.
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Nov 24, 2015 - 01:46am PT
Royal Robbins said that over-bolting would ruin the environment.

He was correct.


And Now?


"A new modern climbing ethic is to bolt-bolt-bolt."



This is a terrible state of affairs.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Nov 24, 2015 - 01:52am PT
A robust denial of and blindness to one's impact isn't unique to climbers and their chalk, bolts, and fixed draws. The slackers think everyone loves their anchors and horseback riders and mountain bikers think everyone loves their trails no matter how much they're tearing a place up. It's like anything else - moderation and common sense are often the hardest commodities of all to come by when talking about your own use of a resource.
Prod

Trad climber
Nov 24, 2015 - 02:03am PT
Funny thing, a similar high line was rigged in 1999 with no bolts placed.

So what was the story behind this one? Slack line? Zip line?

Just curious.

Prod.
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
Nov 24, 2015 - 02:07am PT
... ruin the environment.

Isn't it amazing what dumb things our bygone heroes have said?

To make any sense that this squeak of Royal's could have any merit for real environmental problems one could ask, "How local [in area] was the study zone where the measurement of "ruin" was determined?

I feel no pain or sense of ruin from the new bolts on Castleton ... The jabber of words just doesn't move my emotion button.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Nov 24, 2015 - 02:43am PT
I feel no pain or sense of ruin from the new bolts on Castleton ... The jabber of words just doesn't move my emotion button.

A popular strawman comparison. What's a few bolts compared to the loss of the Amazon. Oh, the humanity!

It's right up there with 'just don't clip them' as arguments go. But then again, who knows? Maybe the Amazon falling to fire and bulldozers doesn't cause you any pain or push your buttons either.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Nov 24, 2015 - 02:44am PT
Man, where is Ken Nichols when you need him?
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Nov 24, 2015 - 03:03am PT
Seems no different than establishing a climbing route. in this case though it is a retro bolt as the slack line had been set previously. If they are claiming a world record though perhaps it did not get walked the full disistance in 99 in which case this would not be a retro bolt.. either way they need to be as thoughtfull as possible when setting those kinds of anchors. I see a big problem in the argument that we (climbers) can have rap stations and protection bolts but you slack liners are not allowed to play on our rocks.
ashtond6

climber
Sheffield, UK
Nov 24, 2015 - 04:33am PT
Robert,

Yes, it happens all over the alps

A friend of mine in Switzerland went to a granite crag, looked like the smoke bluffs - line after line of bomber cracks. Each with 8 bolts up it

I can't believe anyone could argue for MORE bolts on Castleton :(
patrick compton

Trad climber
van
Nov 24, 2015 - 05:02am PT
Now that there are names attached to the crime, sounds like time for a good ol climber ethics lynching!!

Been a good month for lynchings, first Sloan, now mystery desert tower bolts.

Woot!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Nov 24, 2015 - 05:57am PT
Edited

I feel for the rescuers who had to save these barneys.


That slackline was incredible but wait........
THEY USED BOLTS????!!!!!

A couple tcu's, tie off some sage, all good.
Just make sure it's SRENE mmmkay?

And don't bash the filmers.

This outta make some heads explode:
http://vimeo.com/146738468

jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Nov 24, 2015 - 07:31am PT
Sam Lightner Replaced the rap anchors early this year.. North Face Rap/
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Ogden, Utah
Nov 24, 2015 - 08:46am PT


If placing the bolts is not illegal, and setting up the slack line isn't either, then I can understand the principle of leaving them. That's a pretty spectacular human accomplishment to make the walk between those two formations, and it's likely someone else, or the same people for that matter, will want to do it again. Then, in principle, it's really no different than climbers leaving bolts behind on a first ascent.

You could argue the quantity, or the size, or the position of the bolts, but to a certain extent, and again in principle, that's irrelelevant. Beyond that it stirs up sh#t that could come back to bite climbers in the ass in the form of scrutiny by The Man.

I think tolerance is appropriate here. If another crew had to set up new anchors to do the walk again, even one time, that's more damage to the summits.

Ethically, it would be cool if anchors for slack lining were removable. Without knowing jack about rigging a slack line like that, I would think that eye bolts could be used in relatively loose, drop in holes, since the pull is horizontal, and the eyes could be pulled afterward. However, to be an effective way to limit more drilling, this would require an understanding between all other parties who attempt to rig similar setups as to the specs of the anchors to be used in the existing holes, and probably some public record thereof to refer to before production. Probably way too much to expect, especially when climbers aren't held to any similar standard.

As to climbers mistakenly using slack line anchors for descent and having to get rescued because of it, unfortunately, the fault lies squarely with the climbers, IMO. Suggesting that bolts can lead to expensive rescues is a mistake in my mind, unless the goal of mentioning it is to encourage regulation. Slack liners could take responsibility for preventing this kind of situation by marking their anchors "For Slack Only", but again, climbers aren't held to those standards.

Rappelling off fixed anchors has always called for good judgement.

I understand why climbers find clusters of giant anchors on summits offensive, but I think in this situation it calls for tolerance on the part of climbers, and consideration of aesthetics on the part of slack liners.

My first thought when I saw the video of the guy walking the line was Dean would be proud! An amazing and beautiful human accomplishment...

Very reasonable and well thought out post, Kevin. I thought the same about imagining Dean being proud.

Yup, the bolts are needless to climbers but high liners have the same rights as anyone to recreate. Why not just take the hangers off while the line isn't being used? That would solve the problems of climbers mistaking them as rap anchors.


My very first thought when I saw that slack line and where it was. "I wonder how they rigged that?" Followed by, oh crap, how DID they rig that!? There must be huge stresses involved, perhaps enough to lever off the top of that tower? Obviously not, but it got me thinking. I figured they would have wrapped it up somehow. Like slinging a big horn. Never figured they'd use bolts at all.


1.25 Kn standing strength. Yeah, I was surprised how low it was, as well.

Camp 4 Collective has been mentioned - I think it was Renan Osturk and Tim Kimple who were there (I may be wrong) shooting the event. Both are well known climbers and I would be disappointed if they had anything to do with the bolting. I thought I had read that they were shooting from drones for the event so may not have even been up on the towers. I guess one could argue that they probably knew that it was going to be bolted and had the opportunity to give input, but maybe not. It would be nice before the self-righteous climbing community collectively strung them up by their balls, to hear their perspective.

Playing devil's advocate, I see. Why would their balls be strung up for simply documenting a historic event?


Gotta love the internet, haa haa!

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Nov 24, 2015 - 09:00am PT
Why not just take the hangers off while the line isn't being used? That would solve the problems of climbers mistaking them as rap anchors.

This is a pretty good idea. In fact it is so sensible and so obvious a solution you just know it'll never happen.
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
Nov 24, 2015 - 09:03am PT
A popular straw man comparison. Healje couldn't you give the real argument instead of using the word straw ma? Saying straw man is a cute labeling argumentative technique but using it & then asserting your Amazon comparison doesn't refute the substance of my assertions.

The area altered is very small

It seems those lamenting are far overstating the environmental significance of a dozen bolts on Castleton unless we measure the ruining quite local. i.e. a 3/4" hole? per bolt. Compared to area on top the tower this disruption area is quite small--insignificant.

But when the bullheads talk that disruption means everything but it[the natural area loss and their talking about it] has about identically zero effect on the environment.



Are these bolts going to change the annual percip, the average temp, cause ravens not land their, created a big loss in current wildlife and flora. These are questions about ruining the environment.

But yes they have created a brainstorm in your head and the only way we know about it is your lamenting. But that is your local environment and I am little concerned.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Nov 24, 2015 - 10:36am PT
Why did they use bolts instead of natural protection? Unless we know that most of this thread is speculation.

If they could've used all natural pro then it would've been much cooler to do so.

If there was a good reason to use bolts then I don't have a problem with that. I wouldn't be surprised if it gets repeated, and as mentioned what's the difference between that and a climb that sees few repeats, in terms of justifying the bolts placed.

The could've used removable triplex bolts. But I imagine the holes are vertical and could fill up with water and maybe the freeze/thaw cycle could damage the holes? Meaning more holes would have to be drilled. So as mentioned pulling the hangers may have been a good idea.

Environmental impact isn't just ecosystem impact, it also includes human impacts. For many environmental impact reports those are the most important factors. So although the climbers that needed a rescue really brought that on themselves, those bolts helped create a situation with a significant impact. Really that's what the environmental impacts of most bolts are; it's impacts on other climbers/recreational users.
timy

Sport climber
Durango
Nov 24, 2015 - 12:22pm PT
Does "Camp 4 Collective" smack of cheap capitalization?

Yes, it's gross.

I became active on Facebook maybe a year or so ago and started getting many of the "pro" climbers' feed. Now I've been unfollowing most of it because it's totally shameless BS. I'm not impressed by hardly any of it, they're just typical climbers (most of them) but act like everything they climb is some kind of breakthrough. I can make a world record about anything if no one else is doing it. What a stupid stunt!

I could feign disgust at the bolts or pull any number of ethics/environmental cards, but mostly I'm disgusted with paying these d#@&%ebags (through higher gear costs) for waste-of-time shenanigans that are solely designed for promotion.

Do something impressive man!
WBraun

climber
Nov 24, 2015 - 12:39pm PT
Why not just take the hangers off while the line isn't being used?

And put a brass tag on one of the bolts that have the reason why they are there stamped on it .....
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 24, 2015 - 03:54pm PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Nov 24, 2015 - 04:53pm PT
So, the usual big corporate sponsorship redbull bullshit sellout?
Does "Camp 4 Collective" smack of cheap capitalization?

Yes, it's gross.

I will happily sell out to any company that will pay me to go have fun! Hey Range Rover, in addition to putting your picture on my webpage I'll get a tattoo of your car on my belly if you fund a trip to South America! That goes for any of you, I'll tattoo your face on myself if you pay me to climb or fish.

These arguments come up with snowboarding and music (and any activity) often and it always makes me laugh because I would love to be a sell out, I just don't have much to sell :(

I've never understood why people involved in any recreational activity judge people making a living at it.
SGropp

Mountain climber
Eastsound, Wa
Nov 24, 2015 - 05:44pm PT
There's actually an interesting back story to the Chevy car ad that was shot on top of Castleton.

Read down a bit:
http://www.oil-electric.com/2013/03/into-wild_4.html

That must have been an interesting night for the model and the mechanic stranded overnight on top of the tower.

There were actually two ads shot there. When Steve Hong and I climbed the Kor -Ingalls route in '74 there were still some debris left on top from the '72 photo shoot, which we happily cleaned up and pitched over the side.

As I remember the rappel bolts were pretty funky.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Nov 24, 2015 - 05:45pm PT
Nice work if you can get it!

this is NEEDLESS BOLTS
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Nov 24, 2015 - 06:46pm PT
This misunderstandings and jealousy are often intertwined with legitimate concerns on these threads.
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Nov 24, 2015 - 06:54pm PT
Boltz on loose flakes? WTF?
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
Nov 24, 2015 - 08:49pm PT
Really that's what the environmental impacts of most bolts are;C.

I have yet to see someone that studies the environment (botanists, ecologist, zoologists, chemists, geographers etc) have concern over bolts for affecting the environment. Anyone know of anyone getting research funding for the environmental effects of bolts on the atmosphere, plants etc?


Again,
...impacts on other climbers/recreational users
. These people bothered by bolts have cultivated their dislike of them: hence it is cultural -- the problems exist in their heads only. There are likely no significant physical measurements to show bolts are hurting/disrupting the ecosystem. Some of the people that cultivate the idea that bolts are atrocious become incessant complainers to land managers that are paid to politely listen to these type of complaints. The land managers may make cultural adjustments to grease the squeaking wheel--rules.

for the Fet: The Republicans are crying foul. Is this an environmental impact? Or is it a cultural condition? Or the Hall effect?
overwatch

climber
Nov 24, 2015 - 08:58pm PT
Oohgee dizzle Representing the never was? Just wringing your hands the other way
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Nov 24, 2015 - 09:07pm PT
Has Erik Sloan been arrested yet?
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
Nov 24, 2015 - 09:08pm PT
Moose,

was it the bolts or the moving tight rope that wore the groove?

I am sure you have seen how sand stone is damage by repealing and top roping.

How much does this "damage" alter the local ecosystem?

Our significant world environmental problems are more than few grooves in sandstone.
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Nov 24, 2015 - 09:19pm PT
Why wouldn't a bolter have this opinion?

These people bothered by bolts have cultivated their dislike of them: hence it is cultural -- the problems exist in their heads only. There are likely no significant physical measurements to show bolts are hurting/disrupting the ecosystem. Some of the people that cultivate the idea that bolts are atrocious become incessant complainers to land managers that are paid to politely listen to these type of complaints. The land managers may make cultural adjustments to grease the squeaking wheel--rules.

Dingus? Perhaps you live in bolt-culture, and thus think you have to defend their use,-------- anywhere for any use?

Please correct me if I am wrong?

I've placed bolts on lead, but I have no desire to defend all placements of bolts.
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
Nov 24, 2015 - 09:21pm PT
Moose,

cars have been used to kill people -- are they a concealed weapon?
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
Nov 24, 2015 - 09:25pm PT
Fritz,

I am arguing that bolts have cultural impacts but very likely do not have impacts that alter the ecosystem/environment. We are all permitted to wear the clothes we choose but we cannot say our clothes make the sun set.
overwatch

climber
Nov 24, 2015 - 09:26pm PT
That would be open carry
flatlander_1

climber
San Francisco, California
Nov 24, 2015 - 09:31pm PT
Check this out - A non commercial film company that needs your support.

Join us!

To Learn / Contribute : http://igg.me/at/frostdoc/x/10880133

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Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Nov 24, 2015 - 09:35pm PT
Dingus? I'm curious about your opinion?

Do you think the bolts Donini mentions in his opening post, on Castleton Tower, should be left in place with their hangers? Even though a party competent enough to summit Castleton Tower, had to be rescued, after rappelling off those bolts?

I do believe that question is what this whole thread is about?
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
Nov 24, 2015 - 09:45pm PT
Fritz,

you are driving down a section of Interstate new to you and see an exit -- do you think it is the exit you need? You would consult the GPS or map. Just because you are competent to drive doesn't mean you know a priori where the right exit is.

Suppose you took the wrong exit and had an accident involving the ambulance. Should the exit be closed to all future drives?

Or is the exit now an environmental disaster because you had an accident?


I think Werner knows who is stupid.

I would say the rescued party demonstrated they were not competent in getting down something you cannot walk off.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Nov 24, 2015 - 10:08pm PT
Dingus I think you are conflating the ecosystem and the environment. The ecosystem is a subset of the environment. Something can have an impact on the environment but not on the ecosystem. For example a new development in a city may require an environmental impact report and that report may idenifty a significant environmental impact such as destroying a historical building or causing traffic problems. There's a big human component to the environment.

I'm not saying there's anything wrong with those bolts. But bolts do impact the experience of other users, and that's a type of environmental impact. Even if it's a minor impact. And it should be considered. Not just brushed under the rug because it's not as important to humanity as say deforestation.
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Nov 24, 2015 - 10:09pm PT
Dingus? Cut the bullschist.

I'm not questioning your history &/or bolting morals.

And we don't need any more parables.

I'm just questioning if you are defending those bolts & hangers, that were left on Castleton Tower?
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Nov 24, 2015 - 10:32pm PT
Good thread.

Too bad about the rescue but I think highliners have the same right as climbers. Actually, they are climbers with an asterix.


Climbers Beware
Highliners will be leaving bolts on top of things.
You will experience personal discomfort if you attempt to use them for the rap down.
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
Nov 24, 2015 - 11:08pm PT
Fritz,

Needless bolts left on Castleton Tower ...

Needless... -- kind of a leading question isn't it? Judgemental?

you ask, Am I defending those bolts & hangers, that were left on Castleton Tower?

I will let each party decide the level of safety they want. I suppose that is defending their installation.

It seems you are assuming the issue is with "bolts left"[hangers] not "needless". Anyone can readily take the hangers.

Are they now needless? Yes, until someone wants to use 'em. Just like rappell bolts.
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
Nov 24, 2015 - 11:25pm PT
Fet,

There's a big human component to the environment.


Yes, it is called culture. We made it.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Nov 24, 2015 - 11:52pm PT
I have yet to see someone that studies the environment (botanists, ecologist, zoologists, chemists, geographers etc) have concern over bolts for affecting the environment. Anyone know of anyone getting research funding for the environmental effects of bolts on the atmosphere, plants etc?

It would be hard to construct a more bogus argument than this. It has nothing to do with the 'environment' and everything to do with unnecessary human impact in a shared place revered for it's aesthetics.

These people bothered by bolts have cultivated their dislike of them: hence it is cultural -- the problems exist in their heads only. There are likely no significant physical measurements to show bolts are hurting/disrupting the ecosystem. Some of the people that cultivate the idea that bolts are atrocious become incessant complainers to land managers that are paid to politely listen to these type of complaints. The land managers may make cultural adjustments to grease the squeaking wheel--rules.

Almost doesn't rate a 'seriously' and indicates you a) either don't get the issue at all, b) you're all about constructing really bad strawman arguments or c) you've never seen a bolt you didn't like.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 25, 2015 - 03:59am PT
Dingus argues for the sport of it.
He is a sportarguer.
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
Nov 25, 2015 - 05:12am PT
healyje,

pretty much the issue of bolts boils down to a faction's aesthetics preservation vs. the public at large user's rights/privileges[here safety & maybe convenience?]. There are no scientific like variable here to study and hence the topic is not in the domain of science. Again, the issues bolts create are a cultural phenomena -- purely in the heads of the aesthetic players. Aesthetics vs. Engineering for safety. And some of the ideas the players hold about bolts really do create high wattage brainstorms for them.

Mind is a minefield -- Ulysses. It looks like one of my word robots has stepped on a minefield in your mind? You let the robot into your mind.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Nov 25, 2015 - 05:32am PT
pretty much the issue of bolts boils down to a faction's aesthetics preservation vs. the public at large user's rights/privileges[here safety & maybe convenience?].

There is no 'public at large user's rights / privileges' to bolt on public land, but I'd say these days there's an overwhelming sense of entitlement to remake the outdoors into a facsimile of their local gym so they can avail themselves of risk-free entertainment instead of climbing.

There are no scientific like variable here to study and hence the topic is not in the domain of science.

I agree, so then why keep spouting the nonsensical environmental strawmen? It has nothing to do with the environment.

Again, the issues bolts create are a cultural phenomena -- purely in the heads of the aesthetic players. Aesthetics vs. Engineering for safety. And some of the ideas the players hold about bolts really do create high wattage brainstorms for them.

That's because they're a pain to have to go chop, the attitudes behind their endless proliferation are beyond sad and consumptive, and - check it out - they are a permanent addition to the rock that many find entirely unwelcome. I get it that you're one of the now endless "just don't clip'em" demographic who never seen a bolt that wasn't welcome and who that can't really understand what the problem is - but rest assured there is one regardless.
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
Nov 25, 2015 - 06:02am PT
healyje,

Are you clueless??

the bolt problem is a creation of yours -- you don't get it?

Safety will almost always trump aesthetics. Chop 'em and we will replace 'em. And you will be sending your puny ass all over the planet to redeem your personal aesthetics? We call that type religious fanatics.


Genghis Khan claimed too much domain and could not keep on keeping on...
but climbed that bridge after he was way past it..

Welcome to the valid world of sport climbing and safety.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 25, 2015 - 08:08am PT
Gynical Pinnacle

Trad climber
Bay Area
Nov 25, 2015 - 09:42am PT
I climbed the Kor-Ingalls on the Sunday of the highline event and thought I would chime in with some first-hand information.

First, my understanding was that the group used both the bolts and natural protection (I believe they slung a big block) as a backup. My impression was that the highline bolts were much less intrusive than the normal rap bolts, seeing as how the rap bolts include about six feet of chain laying around the summit. Furthermore, I seem to recall the highline bolts being on a slightly less prominent part of the summit than the rap bolts. In general, I think the visual impact of the new bolts will be much lower than that of the rap station.

From talking with members of the slackline group - both on the summit and afterwards in the Castleton campground - they were all friendly and very stand-up people. The slackliners on the summit offered to let us rap their fixed lines, and were generally pretty humble and respectful. The constant buzzing of the camera drone was somewhat annoying, but I suppose that's just the inevitable future of all outdoor sports.

Bottom line: this group of slackliners appeared to be at least as respectful of their impact as the average group of climbers.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Nov 25, 2015 - 09:47am PT
If your neighbor's dog shits on your lawn you would expect him to clean up the mess.

sometimes you have to pick up after your neighbors.. Stoney Point has seen bolt issues for years.. Slack liners come out here and set up as-well... THEY ARE HAVING FUN IN THE PARK TOO..

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Rankin

Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
Nov 25, 2015 - 10:02am PT
There is no 'public at large user's rights / privileges' to bolt on public land, but I'd say these days there's an overwhelming sense of entitlement to remake the outdoors into a facsimile of their local gym so they can avail themselves of risk-free entertainment instead of climbing.

Amen. The pussification of climbing is a disgrace. Don't mess with my wild cliffs and I won't mess with your tamed, emasculated pos routes.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Nov 25, 2015 - 10:03am PT
Bolts are an environmental impact. Again the environment is everything, not just the biophysical/natural environment, legally and scientifically speaking. I studied environmental science so I'm somewhat familiar with it.

Section 101 of The National Environmental Policy Act states that “…it is the continuing responsibility of the Federal Government to…(1) fulfill the responsibilities of each generation as trustee of the environment for succeeding generations; (2) assure for
all Americans safe, healthful, productive, and aesthetically and culturally pleasing surroundings; (3) attain the
widest range of beneficial uses of the environment without degradation, risk to health or safety, or other
undesirable and unintended consequences; (4) preserve important historic, cultural, and natural aspects of
our national heritage, and maintain, wherever possible, an environment which supports diversity, and variety
of individual choice; (5) achieve a balance between population and resource use which will permit high
standards of living and a wide sharing of life’s amenities; and (6) enhance the quality of renewable resources
and approach the maximum attainable recycling of depletable resources.”

This could be studied scientifically if someone had the time and inclination to do so. It would probably entail a survey of different users to determine the value of the bolts to the people who use them, vs. the cost of the degradation of the aesthetics and other impacts to the people who don't want them.

That's also a framework I use to form my opinion for specific situations. In this example, say the bolts were necessary to set up the highline (which I don't know). Then the slackliners got a lot of value from these bolts. While if I do a climb there the aesthetic degradation to me is very minimal. So I would say the value of the bolts to the slackliners is greater than the degradation to me. For other bolts it would be different. For example if someone retrobolts a climb to make it easier they are removing challenge and value from that climb for everyone that does that climb. In that case I think the value of those bolts to those that want them is less than the value of the degradation the bolts caused to the aesthetics, history, and challenge of the climb.

That framework can also incorporate additional variables. For example imagine someone is on a climb, a storm is moving in, and a natural feature breaks and they need to rappel and they put in a bolt. That bolt has tremendous value because it's going to allow them to live. I think this is where Dingus' safety trumps aesthetics comes in. Maybe someone can repeat the route in the future and use a hook in that section, fine. But in that situation a bolt is so valuable you don't even question if it's justified.

But is someone retrobolts the Bachar-Yerian because "it's not safe" enough you'd hear a tremendous outcry because that route has huge value as a mental test piece and historical value. And there are other routes that are "safer" if that's what you want.
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
Nov 25, 2015 - 10:56am PT
Fet,

Is the bold formatting your addition?


It would probably entail a survey of different users to determine the value of the bolts to the people who use them, vs. the cost of the degradation of the aesthetics and other impacts to the people who don't want them.

These surveys are political science at best ---hardly science.

Every things and anything that changes then becomes an environmental impact. But such is the Federal Gov to assert by definition its jurisdiction of all domains.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Nov 25, 2015 - 11:02am PT
Yes, because it relates to this situation. And bolts in general.

It's a pretty well written act IMO. e.g. "an environment which supports diversity, and variety of individual choice"

For climbing I see that as we should have well protected sports climbs AND run out mental test pieces. If it's like parts of Europe where bolts proliferate we lose those mental test pieces. Not every climb should be safe or setup for all climbers. On the other hand if someone wants to put up a bolted sport climb FA in Yosemite they should be allowed to do that. Of course that is the case now but it was controversial in the past.
10b4me

Mountain climber
Retired Climber
Nov 25, 2015 - 11:07am PT
Highlining is a sport for slackers, and no one else.
I agree with donini, the bolts should go away.
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
Nov 25, 2015 - 11:10am PT
Of course that is the case now but it was controversial in the past.

So these wants are relative and all just in the head? Cultivated ideas if you will?
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Nov 25, 2015 - 11:11am PT
Climbing is a sport for climbers, and no one else.
I agree with the native Americans, the bolts should go away.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Nov 25, 2015 - 11:26am PT
So these wants are relative and all just in the head? Cultivated ideas if you will?

Yes I believe so.

We have real differences of opinion which is fine, but I think we should try to understand other's viewpoints and values. At the very least if you try to understand someone else's position you get less frustrated with them, because you see where they are coming from.

Ideas do change. There was a big backlash against sport climbing in the US in the 80s (and even some are still against it) but most people have come to accept it and see the value in it. Without sport climbing I doubt they would have done the Dawn Wall free climb. Without sport climbing I would have not been able to do perhaps 1/3 the climbs I have done in my life because they wouldn't exist. You can't naturally protect many steep basalt and limestone crags, and I have had a LOT of fun on those types of climbs.
timy

Sport climber
Durango
Nov 25, 2015 - 12:00pm PT
What's your point? Being a pro athlete in a "lifestyle" sport (which climbing assuredly is) with no money in the competitive circuit means that your job is effectively to be a model. What else would someone be paying you for? This isn't exactly a recent development.

Agreed. But what is this "model" supposed to convey? Growing up as a climber, the "models" that I admired most were the people who were understated and under the radar.

So I Just finished the Honnold/Roberts book. In one chapter, Alex talks about his struggle to justify the carbon footprint of flying gear and people (another Camp Four Collective thing)to Mexico for the documentation of his solo of Sendero Luminoso:
"At first, I'd assumed that my carbon footprint would be much lower than that of the average American, because I lived in a van and didn't own many possessions. But as I read more about the issue, I realized that the amount of flying that I did still left me near the highest percentile of environmental impact...."
So what was the actual cost of a stunt that wasn't likely born from the desire to just go climbing and do something cool, but almost strictly a one time marketing stunt? I don't even know what they're selling but I'm not interested. I'm tired of narcissistic behavior. Facebook brings to bear the "look at me" culture but eeeewww, get it out of climbing!

I'm as big of a show-off as anyone, and I've always wanted to get paid to climb, but I think some humility goes a long ways.



Ben909

Trad climber
toronto
Nov 25, 2015 - 12:05pm PT
While climbers getting rescued is unfortunate, the rap anchor on Castleton is gigantic and hard to miss, impossible if you've read the description. Even after they took the wrong rap they should have been able to deal with it. You don't belong on a multipitch route, no matter how travelled and classic, if you can't ascend back up to your anchor. We can either strive to remove all ambiguity from outdoor pursuit or accept some responsibility and be adequately competent for the environment we place ourselves in.

If you place bolts arguably not needed (they didn't need them in 1999) at least clean up your mess.

A belayed tyrolean traverse rigged in 99, not a slackline. Although this particular highline was quite loose at 1.25kn, it is subject to way different loading possibilities because of the falls people take while highlining and because the materials used (vectran and dyneema webbings) are so low stretch they seriously amplify any shockloads. I remember reading the article about the tyrolean, but can't find it now, I'd be curious to re-read it. FWIW, there are 3 slackline bolts per side.

The point is bolts left on cuttion edge routes still have some purpose, someone might use them to repeat the route.
The bolts left on Castleton serve no purpose, the slackline has been removed. It took only a few days before unsuspecting (and apparently inexperienced) climbers used them resulting in an expensive nightime rescue.

For better or for worse for the possibility of desert solitude, people will try to repeat this line. The bolts are there, just like they would be on any cutting edge project. Dan Osman's unfinished route on Castleton comes to mind, and I'd be willing to bet that these bolts will see more action than his.

About 10 years ago I counted 16 bolts placed at Gemini Bridges for a slackline. Seemed pretty egregious especially when there were plenty of suitable places for nest(s) of clean pro.

I highlined at Gemini Bridges in 2006 and 2007 and recall half a dozen lines up to 200'. Some were all bolts and some were supplemented with gear. The main dog hole line required the largest tricam and a few #6 camalots. One of the shortest lines used a crack for backup that was so sandy I could excavate with my fingers.

Right on Jim! I get that no one wants to clip off on Kor's old 1/4" spinners, but we've all seen the shitload of bolts that slackers place to feel secure. Why trash the place though? Hopefully the internet will show others that they can tie their lines off with out bolts, and save the day and the rock for future climbers and slackers.

Some of the tests people have done show forces above 20kn for a leash fall on 100' highlines. How many bolts would you use to feel secure? To have a reasonable ratio of loading to MBS? How much pro in sandstone is good for a 20kn whip? 3-4 bolts per side is common for highlines due to such a possible loading scenario, and another reason why people place slackline specific bolts. There are a few exceptions, like Yosemite Falls where Dean Potter had 8 bolts on one side because he was putting ~35kn pre-tension into a 2" amsteel rope, but they are rare and not the direction the community is going in for development. There are actually quite a few people establishing trad highlines, especially in Yosemite.

If they are claiming a world record though perhaps it did not get walked the full disistance in 99 in which case this would not be a retro bolt..

As mentioned above, it was not a highline slackline that was rigged previously. FWIW, the highline length that people were walking in 99 was certainly not more than 200'. 300' was first walked in 2010.

Why not just take the hangers off while the line isn't being used? That would solve the problems of climbers mistaking them as rap anchors.

This practice is actually common in certain places, like Joshua Tree. There are some drawbacks though, like having to have every possible hanger size you'll encounter as well as extra nuts for every thread size. As far as I know, the bolts on Castleton are 3/4" and, since nobody makes hangers for that size, there are some chain links along with spacers and washers to serve as a means of connecting to the bolt. Not impossible to remove and reinstall, but a tag indicating it is a highline anchor will probably suffice.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Nov 25, 2015 - 12:17pm PT
Thanks for the details Ben909. I think they are important.

3/4" bolts. Wow. Yeah I can see why they'd just leave them in place. And for the record I'm much rather see 3 3/4" bolts than 6 1/2" bolts.
Ben909

Trad climber
toronto
Nov 25, 2015 - 04:35pm PT
Glad to be able to provide some context and perspective where it seems to be lacking.

I've been slacking since 2005, and since then it has experienced the same kind of explosion in popularity that climbing did in the 1990s-2000s. Slackliners face mounting access problems in municipal parks as and will certainly increasingly encroach upon places that have historically been visited almost exclusively by climbers. This will obviously cause problems. Climbers must learn to accept that highlines are a legitimate use and here to stay, and slackers will really have to learn to navigate the complex and very locally dependant climate when it comes to ethics and bolting.

When I stood on top of Castleton in 2006 I looked over at the Rectory, wondering if one day such a preposterous line would even be attempted. At that time the longest slackline walks were still in the 100m range, now it is 600m. The longest highlines were around 60m, a distance that was free soloed this summer, and this new record is 493m. Truly, a dream come true for many.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 25, 2015 - 04:50pm PT
Thanks for your perspective Ben. One of the good things about the forum is that people will come seemingly out of the ether to provide expert analysis for people like me.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Nov 25, 2015 - 04:50pm PT
Safety will almost always trump aesthetics.

No, I'm anything but clueless which is clearly the domain of folks like you who just can't fathom or recognize why folks might object to grid boltng the planet.

And "valid world of sport climbing and safety"? As was said above, the total pussification of climbing is a embarrassing disgrace.


Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Nov 25, 2015 - 05:52pm PT
Some guys were rigging a line at The Needles (CA) a few years ago. I gave them some Fixe removable bolts. Check them out. Pricey but strong, well designed and easily un-torqued and removed for use another day.

They'er not reliable on steep rock since if the head of the bolt turns, loosening, the bolt will pull. True that, so know and understand your application.
Ben909

Trad climber
toronto
Nov 25, 2015 - 06:16pm PT
No prob Jim, glad to share. I remember from seeing your show in Toronto that you were once a slacker and that you had a somewhat unorthodox take on dry tooling.

Ksolem. I've got a bunch of Fixe Triplex for routes and have used them, along with glueins, in some of the highlines I have helped establish. IMO they aren't really the solution. For one, finding bolts can be hard enough when they are properly camouflaged. I have trouble finding the holes and I put them there! The other concern I have is the longevity of a hole that is exposed to freeze and thaw cycles. I had a Triplex slip 1/2" on a highline either because the limestone was soft enough for the rock to be compressed under load, or because I had failed to drill a perfect hole. Either way, it gave me pause.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 25, 2015 - 08:02pm PT
Woot!
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
Nov 26, 2015 - 04:15am PT
from Healyje

...the total pussification of climbing is a embarrassing disgrace.

The quote above is Living Proof that there still are a Few Good Men!

But,, if they are so tough why would they feel "[an] embarrassing disgrace"??
Braunini

Big Wall climber
cupertino
Nov 26, 2015 - 05:13am PT
hilarious
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Nov 26, 2015 - 05:16am PT
thank you ben. i am not a highliner but i do get the fact that rock climbers are not the Only ones allowed to play outside. removeing hangers from bolts over any type of long term usage is asking for troubble inmop. Once the threads get buggered up you are looking at usless studs in the rock. keep them in place and possibly label them slack line anchors unless it's so obvious that the folks who got rescued need a dunce cap award.
sonyapaz

Trad climber
Bozeman, Montana
Dec 2, 2015 - 09:41am PT
To anyone who is following this thread still, I want to chime in as a slackliner (who dabbles in climbing so please don't throw me out! :P)

My name is Sonya and I'm on the board of directors of a new 501c3 non-profit, Slackline U.S. (www.slackline.us), whose mission is to promote safe and environmentally conscious slacklining and assist with developing and maintaining access to public lands. A large part of access, in our opinion, is stewardship and communication. First off, I want to encourage anyone who has a complaint or question related to slacklining to contact us (sonya@slackline.us) and see if we can help in anyway. I'm actually impressed at how non-vitriolic this thread is, and glad to see a conversation happening.

Basically, we've seen issues like this come up time and again and we want to try to mediate that, build relationships between the already overlapping slackline and climbing communities. We're working with the American Alpine Club and the Access Fund to this purpose. That's a large part of the reason we exist at all, to give people a place to reach out when there is a disagreement about bolts or other land use issues.

Slackline U.S. promotes minimal bolting ethics. If bolting is the only way to rig the line, consider really hard whether it should be rigged and consider using removable bolts or placing them somewhere they won't be noticed and misused. Additionally, I've been actively pushing people away from using climbing hangers on bolts. It's problematic for rigging as the narrow profile of the hanger can damage metal attachment points and they also may confuse climbers. The suggestion to dogtag the bolts as "not for rappel" is a great one and something I will start suggesting for situations like this.

As for the suggestions that trad lines could be rigged, I just want to clarify. If we're talking about natural anchors (boulders, trees, etc.) most slackliners will use these natural anchors before bolting. If we're talking about trad gear (cams, nuts) we don't encourage the use of trad gear in highline anchors because they are not designed for cyclic loading, can damage the rock, and have been known to fail on highlines before (thankfully in each case the backup prevented injury/death, so far).

For the people questioning the amount of force in a highline, when I started we were commonly walking really tight lines with waling tension of ~1500 lbf which would equate to something like 3-4000 lbf on a dynamic fall and these lines were ~100 ft long. The record line in question in this thread was ~1600 ft long and had a walking tension of only 900 lbf, which considering the weight of half a kilo of material (x2 with backup) is actually incredibly loose. There was a sag in the line of about 150 feet.

Slacklining is shifting to looser and looser lines in the past couple of years. Early guys were making it up as they went, unsure how much force they were creating and over bolting to be sure it wouldn't fail. Our version of pitons. We've grown up a bit. A common practice now is 3-4 bolts per anchor. Also, in some areas (mostly in Europe) it is common to remove the hangers from the bolts when not in use, which prevents them from wandering off but would also prevent a climber from using them on accident. This is an alternative we could suggest for highlines like this. While an exposed bolt is a bit ugly itself, it would prevent accidental use. It's also common to cover bolts with rocks when not in use, largely to remove the visual.

A lot of these conversations and stewardship practices are going to be specific to each location. We're in the process of recruiting regional coordinators to help facilitate local dialog between climbers and slackliners and the public in general. For now, if any of you have something to talk about with relation to slackliners, I'd be glad to help however I can.

sonya@slackline.us

http://www.slackline.us
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