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Mad Max
Trad climber
Bakersfield
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 23, 2015 - 04:27pm PT
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Hello,
I'm more of a caver/mine explorer, I've been trad climbing 5-easy (like 5.7, not a big deal to run it out if I feel good) for about four or five years and I would like to combine my vertical caving equipment and lead climbing equipment into a big wall rack, and lock horns with some big(ish?) stuff in Yosemite.
But where do I begin? How do I gauge when I'm ready or prepared to make an attempt and at least get high enough to not appear like a sissy, before crying and bailing?
Also, how often can one find climbing partners that are willing to do that with me? I would prefer a veteran climber show me how to do things with style, but I'll probably end up dragging a caving friend of mine up a cliff and terrify ourselves, trying to scrape something up I guess.
Criticism is welcome, fire away.
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Da-Veed
Big Wall climber
Bigfork
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Nov 23, 2015 - 04:42pm PT
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Start with some single pitch clean aid. Make sure you can actually aid climb before you jump on a wall....you'll figure it out from there. Just like everyone else has done.
The right gear makes things much easier.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Nov 23, 2015 - 04:49pm PT
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The advice above about getting competent on single-pitch is sound. Unclear whether you are looking to solo or go with a partner. If the latter, a partner can often be found at the usual sites (e.g. Camp 4 in Yosemite), although it's up to you to spot-assess skill, judgment, experience and so on.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Nov 23, 2015 - 05:24pm PT
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Well worth it: http://www.supertopo.com/packs/road2nose.html
If you can find a local partner that's best so you can train together and commute to the valley, etc. together. But you can find partners here, mountain project, or the camp 4 kiosk bulletin board.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Nov 23, 2015 - 05:39pm PT
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Just so you know....
Yer
Gonna
You know.
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Heisenberg
Trad climber
RV, middle of Nowehere
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Nov 23, 2015 - 05:47pm PT
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There is an AMAZING practice aid climb in Yosemite.
It's called Book of Revelations. Check it out. No one free climbs it anymore so it's ok to nail it if you need the practice.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Nov 23, 2015 - 06:17pm PT
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5.10d 12' off the ground?
And it's not popular?
Maybe if were regraded to 5.11?
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 23, 2015 - 06:21pm PT
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But where do I begin?
First thing you'll need is sunglasses after you step out of the cave .....
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couchmaster
climber
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Nov 23, 2015 - 08:13pm PT
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Great thought on getting a vet to follow. Aid is very mechanical kind of thing. A, B, C opps...if no D then E,F or G....kind of thing. It will shorten up the learning a lot. Then go do a bolt ladder or a preplaced top rope route to get warm, then do some easy routes that won't kill ya to get started. Here's some Yosemite Valley shorter easier Aid Climbs from Bryan Law I believe.
Le Conte Boulder:
Le Conte Bolt Ladder - short)
El Capitan:
Delectable Pinnacle, Center Route - C2 ? (1 pitch)
Delectable Pinnacle, Aid Route - A2+/C2+ ? (1 pitch)
La Escuela - C2 (2 pitches)
La Escuela Direct - A4? (2 pitches, bad bolts?)
Little John, Center - 5.10d/C1, A3-? (2 pitches)
Negative Pinnacle, Left - A3 naining (1 pitch)
Negative Pinnacle, Center - A4 nailing (2 pitches)
Outer Negative - A3 nailing (1 pitch)
Crystal Planet - A3 nailing (1st pitch)
Warren Harding Memorial Rivet Ladder, Wino Boulder - C0 (20')
Washington Column:
Pitch to Nowhere - A2+ nailing (2 pitches (5.7 approach pitch))
History of the Future - A3 nailing (3 pitches)
Cookie Cliff:
The Stigma - C2 (1st pitch); A2 nailing (second pitch)
Coffin Nail - A2+ nailing (1 pitch) "AC Certified"
Cascade Area:
Sunblast - A2+ nailing (1 pitch) "AC Certified"
Sentinel Creek:
Sheba - A4 nailing (1 pitch)
Staircase Falls:
Old A5 - A2 nailing (1 pitch)
Old A3 - A2+ ? nailing (1 pitch)
Old A2 - A2 ? (1 pitch)
Lost Brother:
Prowd - A3 nailing (6 pitches)
Church Bowl:
More Balls Than Brains - A2+ nailing (1 pitch)
Book of Revelations - C1 ? (1 pitch; 5.10d free route)
Bishop's Balcony - ???
Church Bowl Tree can be a fun route to climb. Once at the two bolt anchor, there is an old bolt ladder that will take you up to the ledge with the actual tree. You can then rap from the tree and TR More Balls than Brains
Kat Pinnacle:
Northwest Corner - 5.7 A2 ? (3 pitches)
Southwest Corner - 5.7 A3+ ? (2 pitches)
The Folly:
Left Side - 5.9 A3 ? (9 pitches?)
Dynamo Hum - C1+ (1 pitch; 5.11d free route)
Schultz's Ridge: East Side:
Abazaba - A3 nailing (1st pitch)
Creamatorium - A4 ? nailing (1 pitch)
Dog Dik Cliff:
Pink Pussycat - A1 nailing (1 pitch)
Chris Mac has a great longer group of wall climbs you can easily transition too someplace. Make sure you get the sunglasses along with Da Brim too:-)
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whitemeat
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Nov 23, 2015 - 11:40pm PT
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go to yosemite, try something BIG. if you bail, you will learn more then you ever will "preparing" and if you top out, then bam!
OGH!!!
Also, just be safe and slow down if you need, If you bring enough water and stoke then you WILL make it to the top of a BIG route.
This is what I tell myself, "there is always someone way worse then you that has figured it out"!!
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Nov 24, 2015 - 04:09am PT
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This is what I tell myself, "there is always someone way worse then you that has figured it out"!!
Works in many situations.
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Nov 24, 2015 - 04:16am PT
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^^ Yep for a young lad Whitemeat sure is figuring it out.
wOOba!
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Nov 24, 2015 - 08:20am PT
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If you're worried about bailing, the best way to deal is to add 3 days supplies to how long you think it'll take. On the trade routes, you won't really have trouble getting up the climb, it's always time that kills an ascent (generally) if you've got time, you've got the top.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 24, 2015 - 04:21pm PT
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5.7 ish....I think you need to start by working on your free climbing, first single and then multi pitch. I know that most big walls can be climbed with minimum moderate free climbing but you need to first transition to being comfortable in the vertical world.
Get comfortable with quick, effecient ascents of moderate, longish free climbs like the NEB before you work on aid and jump on a big wall. Trust me, you will be more comfortable on your BW climb and who knows......you may be opened up to a fuller menu of climbing delights!
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Nov 24, 2015 - 08:18pm PT
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How do I gauge when I'm ready or prepared to make an attempt and at least get high enough to not appear like a sissy, before crying and bailing?
You simply need to spend time climbing, gaining the knowledge and experience required to pursue larger objectives. No one can tell you how to gauge anything . . . As with any endeavor, it takes time and practice to become proficient.
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Highlife
Trad climber
California
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Nov 24, 2015 - 08:29pm PT
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The best advice here is from Donini (shocking). Careful with the White meat method.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Nov 24, 2015 - 10:14pm PT
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Caving stuff applied, just look at PTPP, but fer fook's sake, don't climb like that guy, but do enjoy it.
Have you done any research online?
Start with a how to big wall book to narrow down those skills that are transferable.
Then post up discrete questions. Train with another noob. Build skills at the same pace, but start asking around to see if anyone wants to do aid pitches. In the winter, this is often fun.
Once you start asking the technical questions to yourself, it's not 'if' but 'when' you'll make it happen.
Post pics of el cap on your walls. Study topos like a restaurant menu while sitting on the pot.
Watch aid climbing vids online.
Get strong. Free sections, but be ready to drop to stirrups as needed.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Nov 24, 2015 - 10:21pm PT
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I endorse Whitemeat's commentary. Step up to the bigs!
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Mad Max
Trad climber
Bakersfield
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 25, 2015 - 11:46am PT
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Thanks everyone, the info and feedback is amazing! I've done some pitches of aid before, mostly bolt ladders and clean aid on hard free routes, but I am definitely interested in finding a veteran climber to follow/swap leads with to learn quickly.
And yes, I know I'm gonna die!
The tip about free leading up to 5.9 sounds like solid advice, and so does Whitemeat's advice on just going out there and getting the crap beat out of me, beer in hand! I'll try a bit of both and see how it goes.
Again, thanks everyone, I'm floored by all the advice I'm getting, my mind is blown.
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