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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 8, 2015 - 05:25pm PT
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The North American Climbing History Archives (NACHA)and the Museum of Northern Arizona are pleased to announce the fourth annual Granitica Festival to be held on March 5-6, 2016 at the MNA auditorium located at 3101 North Fort Valley Road in Flagstaff, AZ 86001. The hours on Saturday and Sunday will be 10 am to 6 pm.
Tickets are now available online through Flagstaff Climbing Gyms on their website
http://www.flagstaffclimbing.com click on blog or go directly there directly
https://clients.mindbodyonline.com/classic/ws?studioid=31814&stype=43&catid=100004&prodGroupId=12695
If you are not online then you can purchase tickets via phone at:(928) 556-9909.
The tickets are $20 base price plus .75 credit card fee and sales tax for a total of $22.61 per ticket. Your name will be placed on a guest list and no paper tickets are involved.
Only 150 tickets will be sold initially with potential for additional seating once this first lot is gone.
I will keep folks posted about seating availability.
Speakers do not need tickets!
The theme for 2016 is: The Templed Horizon- Grand Canyon Climbing. We will be examining the history of technical climbing in and around the Grand Canyon. This is a uniquely American climbing destination that has always offered a wilderness adventure to those in search of that kind of experience.
Come and hear about the adventures directly from the pioneers themselves as we revisit the best climbs and summits that have been done to date with plenty of image support to enhance the presentations. Thanks in advance to those with cameras and for all the help with images that goes into a successful program.
We are working on a list of speakers and presentations which will be posted here and updated as it comes together and fills in.
Tentative speakers include: Dave Ganci, Rick Tidrick, Jerry Robertson, George Bain, Scott Baxter, Karl Karlstrom, Alan Doty, Ken Walters, Robert Packard, Jim Haggart, Jim Kirschvink, Jim Ohlman, Albert Newman, Glenn Rink, Tom Martin, Paul Davidson, Bruce Grubbs, Chauncey Parker, Pete Gibbs, Eric Eliason, Bego Gerhart, Sean Peters, Eric Meudt, Andrew Frost and Bill Hatcher with more to come.
View east from Shiva Temple towards Zoroaster and Isis Temples. Tom Martin photo.
Mount Sinyala. Tom Martin photo.
The Spencer Twins. Tom Martin photo.
Excaliber. Tom Martin photo
Aaron Tomasi on Excabiler. Tom Martin photo.
Pernell Tomasi on Horus. Tom Martin photo.
Aaron Tomasi on Horus. Tom Martin photo.
Sean Peters scrambling on Mencius. Sean Peters collection.
Don't Miss the Grandest Climbing Show on Earth!
Subject to additions and subtractions as I continue to get commitments from speakers, the Festival program is as follows:
The Templed Horizon Program
Saturday March 6 10am to 6pm
Introduction and acknowledgements
Interactive Geology Notes by Glenn Rink
Ten Thousand Years of Grand Canyon Climbing by Tom Martin
Zoroaster Temple- FA by Rick Tidrick and Dave Ganci, Sept 1958
South Face by Dave Ganci, George Bain and John Annerino 1980(?)
Mount Sinyala- FA by Mike Sherrick, Bill Amborn, Don Myers and Jim Wilkerson 1958
Second ascent by Dave Ganci and Jerry Robertson, 1964(?)
The Book of Genesis- FA by Pat Littlejohn and John Mothersele, November 1976
One hour lunch break 1:30-2:30pm
Angels Gate-FA SW Arete by Chuck Graf and Dave Ganci, April 1972
Remaining summits by Glenn Rink, Mike Lake and John Mattson, 1980
Various summits- Ken Walters and Robert Packard
Marble Tower- FA by Scott Baxter and Ross Hardwick, 1976(?)
Isis Temple-FA by Alan Doty, 1971
Wallace Butte-East face by Alan Doty, May 1972
Hancock Butte-West face by Alan Doty, October 1976
Thor Temple-Southwest face by Alan Doty, May 1977
Buddha Temple- Northwest Arete by Bruce Grubbs, Chauncey Parker and Mark Brown, 1973 FFA by George Bain and Joe Sharber, 1979
Sunday March 6 10am- 6 pm
Introduction to NACHA
The age of the Grand Canyon research notes by Karl Karlstrom
Horus Temple-Southside east face by Jim Haggart and Scott Kronberg, Jan 1977
Tower of Ra- by Jim haggart, Art Christiansen and Barbara Zinn, June 1977
Tower of Set- Jim Haggart and Bruce Grubbs, Nov 1977
Temple Butte/Awatubi Crest/Chuar Butte- by Jim Haggart and Bruce Grubbs Jan 1978
Kwagunt Butte- Sunflower route, Dennis Abbink, Jim Haggart, Bruce Grubbs and Larry Treiber,March 1979
Scylla Butte- FA by Jim Kirschvink and Jim Ohlman, March 1978
Dana Butte- North Col Buttress by Jim Ohlman, Jim Kirschvink, (?) Bucchelo, Ken Walters and (?) Martini, May 1978
Hutton Butte- North face by Jim Kirschvink, Jim Ohlman and (?) Smith, March 1981
Mount Hayden-FA by George Bain, Joe Sharber and Abra Watkins, 1977
Pegasus by Paul Davidson and Jim Haisley, 1982
The Dome- FA by George Bain and Glenn Rink, 1980
Excaliber- FA by George Bain and Glenn Rink, June 1981
One hour Lunch Break 1:30-2:30 pm
Grapevine Buttress- FA by Pete Gibbs, Bego Gerhart and Eric Eliason
Monument Creek Pinnacle- FA by Gregs, Herbert and Trevithick Nov 1972
Comanche Point Pinnacle- FA by Bruce Grubbs and Larry Treiber
Comanche Point via Comanche Ridge- FA full route by John Harlin, Anne Arrans (UK), Roger Payne (UK) and Nikolai Petkov (BUL), 2003. Second ascent by Andrew Frost and Cullen Kirk alternate ridge Andrew Frost and Zach Harrison
Zoroaster Temple- Screaming Sky Crack by Carl Tobin and Eric Meudt August 1994 with Bill Hatcher also presenting
Tooth Rock (Vermilion Cliffs)- FA by George Bain and Spencer McIntyre, 1977
Tooth Rock- FFA by Albert Newman
Vermilion Cliffs Climbing by Albert Newman
If you have good formation shots of any of the listed summits or climbing photos please contact me as we need image support for these presentations for optimal results.
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired Climber
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That should be a good show. Hope I can make it.
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Nov 10, 2015 - 06:02am PT
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Every time I was down in that glorious gash I marveled at the potential climbing for those who are into vertical mud. Wish I could make the show...
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Chalkpaw
climber
Flag, AZCO
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Nov 10, 2015 - 08:28am PT
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Sounds like a great event. I have several Baxter/Doty stories, going out with them on various adventures. Sometimes carrying a rope but intent on not using it. Call it technical hiking. One of my memories is following Alan Doty's FA beta about summiting Isis. We tried our best to follow and see how he did it back in the 60's or early 70's. No guidebook then, so no guidebook in our packs to recreate some of the feeling of adventure. Lots of following one's nose to thread and wind through the various layers of soft stone. Its like looking through the eyes of history. What a great summit. Then, rather than take the long long route to the back of Phantom canyon, we dropped direct off the redwall, a 600' fifth class descent. Talk about pucker factor. We got back to camp hours ahead of our compadres. A little variation of the original, but come to find that Rink and Bain had climbed up that rib back in the late 70's. One just runs into one bit of history to the next while skating though the ditch.
But then, one occasionally finds something that the history makers missed on routes...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2015 - 06:05pm PT
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Great stories chalkpaw!
I should have a preliminary route and speaker list shortly.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Nov 15, 2015 - 09:36pm PT
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Here's some hard rock (Quaternary Basalt) in an otherwise soft rock paradise. Has anyone climbed this thing...Vulcan's Anvil?
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Nov 16, 2015 - 12:24am PT
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There are several dws 'routes' up the Anvil, but it is considered sacred by the local Indian tribes and they have asked boaters not to touch it. For a long time, there were considerable offerings stuck in the crevices for good luck in Lava--I think most boaters respect the wishes of the Hopi, Havasupai, Hualapai, and Navajo these days?
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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Nov 16, 2015 - 05:14am PT
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Great event and a great topic!
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Scott McNamara
climber
Tucson, Arizona
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Nov 16, 2015 - 06:05am PT
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I will look forward to it, Steve.
Thanks!
Scott Mc
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overwatch
climber
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Nov 16, 2015 - 06:19am PT
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Alan Doty? A distant relative maybe?
Jim Doty
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Nov 16, 2015 - 07:22am PT
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Will we be able to get tickets by phone or email?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2015 - 07:57am PT
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I will announce the ticket availability and purchase details early next year but you will certainly be able to buy them by phone or email.
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Nov 16, 2015 - 08:37pm PT
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Curious about the story behind this photo? Come on down to Flagstaff next March for the details…
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2015 - 05:45pm PT
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I am pleased to add fellow Seattleite Spencer McIntyre to the list of speakers to accompany George Bain talking about the FA of the Tooth in the Vermilian Cliffs. This is outside the Grand Canyon proper but will be included in the program.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 22, 2015 - 05:55pm PT
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Climbing in the Grand Canyon seems a little esoteric to me.....but the Tooth, well i've climbed it. Full on climbing for sure.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Nov 23, 2015 - 11:14am PT
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True dat Jim.
But come on over and you'll be a bit surprised at the quality of a few of the routes.
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bob
climber
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Nov 23, 2015 - 12:57pm PT
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Copy that!!!!^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
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DesertRatExpeditions
Trad climber
Flagstaff, Arizona
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Nov 24, 2015 - 11:50am PT
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Super excited for this. Looking forward to getting my tickets as soon as they are available.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2015 - 07:11pm PT
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Tickets will go on sale on January 1 and I will announce the details shortly before that date.
Thanks for the stoke folks!
This is really going to be fun!
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Excited to see the slide shows and hear the first ascent stories of some wild unknown peaks, spires, ridges and crags in the deserted lands of the Colorado Plateau.
Long live the mystery of wild places.
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H
Mountain climber
there and back again
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Sounds like a fun event. I'll try and make it.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2015 - 08:30pm PT
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In the 1970s Pat Littlejohn and John Mothersele came through the desert southwest on a climbing tour. They stopped in the Grand Canyon as tourists but couldn't help but notice all the climbing possibilities. Good on any kind of stone they got right to work and wrote about it once they got home in Mountain magazine.
I can't afford to bring these guys over for this event but I hope to have Pat record some video footage about this amazing route.
Anyone else ever experience the joys of the crux "sinew shearing bridge" and repeat the Book of Genesis?
Pat and John also climbed in the Cochise Stronghold doing Echoes, the first route on Dappled Dome (which is now known as Entrance Dome and should revert back to their name IMO) and the exciting Wishbone on Stronghold Dome. I ran into them in Yosemite and had the exquisite pleasure of watching Pat float Butterballs while John fiddled with the belay in his orange work overalls.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2015 - 01:01pm PT
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I am now in contact with Pat through the BMG site.
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Dec 13, 2015 - 07:39pm PT
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Grand Canyon is working on a new backcountry management plan and there are still at least a couple months to reply. I believe they are considering a climber registration process as one of the alternatives.
Should be a grand show this March, looking forward to seeing some old friends and making some new ones...
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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Dec 28, 2015 - 12:58pm PT
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Dec 28, 2015 - 01:35pm PT
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Have you been in touch with Aaron Tomasi? He and his brother are GC climb masters. I've done about 20 Grand Canyon summits, but these guys have done almost all. Also George Bain is a major pioneer.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Tickets on sale?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2016 - 12:41pm PT
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The tentative Granitica Festival program has been posted in the OP subject to alteration as I continue to get commitments from various speakers.
Tickets will go on sale very soon and I will provide the details once they do.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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few random pics from my Grand Canyon files:
I have quite a bit of unpublished info from Tomasi and George Bain and others, and interesting cave trips from Chris Andrews, but not sure if they'd appreciate publishing them--but all good history that I'm sure will be discussed at the Templed Horizon event. cheers
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2016 - 08:36am PT
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Bump for the program route list.
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Nice pic, rickd! That is one hell of a wall. Way out in the middle of nowhere just like many of the routes in Grand Canyon country.
I'm excited and nervous about the presentation. The ten or so Grade IV/V first ascents I'm going to touch on are a part of my life I don't share with many, particularly strangers. I know it sounds strange in this day and age yet the year I spent exploring the VC was a spiritual journey. This seems like a good cause to get the history down in at least some form before it blows away in the sandstorms.
I'm more than happy to field questions in regard to the local camping / lodging / eateries if out of town attendees have questions bring them up here. It is more than likely to be very snowy, somewhat cold in Flagstaff that weekend. Camping is going to be tough. Technically it is illegal to sleep in a vehicle in the city limits and many of the forest roads will be closed. Sedona should have some camping available (25 miles / 1 hour drive). I'd recommend lodging at either Hotel Weatherford or the Monte Vista, both downtown near breweries and food. Many options for cheaper, dive type hotels along Rt 66. There should be many choices in regards to climbing, hiking, mountain biking and skiing.
Regards,
Albert
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Nice pic Pernell. Looks chilly at the ferry.
Colorado River with VC above Lees Ferry, AZ wild.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2016 - 02:21pm PT
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Tickets are now available online through Flagstaff Climbing Gyms on their website
http://www.flagstaffclimbing.com click on blog or go directly there directly
https://clients.mindbodyonline.com/classic/ws?studioid=31814&stype=43&catid=100004&prodGroupId=12695
If you are not online then you can purchase tickets via phone at: (928) 556-9909.
The tickets are $20 base price plus .75 credit card fee and sales tax for a total of $22.61 per ticket. Your name will be placed on a guest list and no paper tickets are involved.
Only 150 tickets will be sold initially with potential for additional seating once this first lot is gone.
I will keep folks posted.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Jan 17, 2016 - 02:41pm PT
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Thanks, got my ticket but it did not charge me sales tax, maybe because I am in California?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2016 - 02:55pm PT
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Glad that you are stoked enough to travel a bit to see this show.
Thanks for the note on out of state ticket purchases avoiding sales tax.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2016 - 12:45pm PT
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If anyone has difficulty getting tickets please let me know.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2016 - 09:37pm PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2016 - 06:58pm PT
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The good folks at Flagstaff Climbing are making available their gym space for a party Saturday evening 6-9 pm. Beer and snacks are being provided by several of the Festival sponsors for a small donation. This is a great opportunity to come and meet these amazing people.
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Jan 28, 2016 - 02:32pm PT
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Steve,
I had trouble negotiating the Flagstaff Climbing website, but found the tickets on the other mind/body link you posted. Total cost was $20.75 for a Flagstaff local.
The awesome folks from BlueWater ropes have generously donated a couple of lead ropes and rope cauldrons to be given away at the event!
Anyone curious about one of Fly'n Brian's favorite routes should make plans to see this show.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2016 - 11:19am PT
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Albert- Thanks for the report. You have to go to the blog on the Flagstaffclimbing site to find the event so it isn't readily apparent how to purchase tickets unless you take the direct route via the link provided.
Sales tax will be added in once you by the ticket unless you are out of state as reported up thread.
Bryan climbed many, many vertical miles of stone so that is high praise that you guys found such an excellent route tucked away in the VC. I look forward to hearing about it!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 29, 2016 - 11:23am PT
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Can't wait to hear the albatross spray about stuff he never talks about in his slideshow!!
WOOOOOOHOOOOO should be a hoot!
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Jan 29, 2016 - 02:25pm PT
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Steve my bank is still showing $20.75 charged ten days ago.
Brian was definitely one of the great climbers and part of my reason for talking in this show is to honor his legacy. It is tough for me to think of other climbers who have established Grade V, 5.12+ free routes next door to serious A4 nailing routes. I feel so blessed to have been his friend to the end.
Oh, a little birdie told me there will be a nice write up about Brian in an upcoming Alpinist…
Vitaly bring your rain coat because I'll be spraying like Old Faithful! I look forward to meeting you. One thing I've learned in the last 33 years is that folks climb for all sorts of reasons. Some for fame, some for money, some climb for a religious experience, blah, blah. V - I've been deeply hurt in the past after sharing this area and I watched a dear friend take his own life in part because of abuse from certain aspects of the climbing community. It makes sense to keep a tight lip, but I support this project and want to get the information on the historical record. Mostly I hope that folks watching come away with a deeper sense of respect and appreciation for our few remaining wild places.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2016 - 03:25pm PT
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Hmmmm...looks like the sales tax has not been added into the billing as it should have been. Too many tickets sold to worry about that detail at this point.
I hope that you weren't buying a ticket as a speaker because you certainly didn't need to and I will hand you back some cash if so.
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sneezy
Social climber
Tucson, AZ
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Jan 30, 2016 - 02:53pm PT
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Hi Steve, stoked for the show. Can you/will you post a schedule? I can't make it for 16 hours of slideshows but there are some I definitely want to see. Got to plan some other activities around the show that weekend.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2016 - 11:18am PT
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I am fine tuning the program right now and will post up the results soon.
These Festivals are more about story telling and reflection than the blow by blow climbing slideshows especially here where just getting to the rope up point is often the crux. One route I came across is 5.4 with some 5.9 on the approach!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2016 - 04:46pm PT
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I need help with images to support some of the presentations so if you have good formation or climbing shots of the following please contact me.
Isis Temple
Wallace Butte
Hancock Butte
Thor Temple
Horus Temple
Temple of Ra
Tower of Set
Temple Butte
Awatubi Crest
Chuar Butte
Subject to last minute alteration, The Templed Horizon program is laid out in one hour blocks in the OP.
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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I see you saved the worst show for last! How fitting.
Have you contacted Sean Peters for images? I bet he has quietly climbed most every formation being presented in this festival.
Steve, as part of my professional life I routinely lead scores of men and women into complex and potentially deadly situations. That job rarely produces the amount of stress as the last few weeks of preparing for this presentation. In this shallow, selfish society we live in, how does one discuss humility or respect for the natural environment? I sincerely hope I don't live to regret the decision to share these adventures with the community. It sounds crazy, but we weren't out there for notoriety or recognition or money we were trying to escape all that nonsense. We did it for the challenge, the wildness, for the fun of it.
Long live adventure, long live mysteries and the unknown,
Albert
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2016 - 08:54pm PT
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We went through a lot of these same thoughts about Baboquivari and I feel like every one of us was heard and respected. Very few folks are of a mindset to take on the sorts of climbs that you have.
I wanted you to have the last presentation in order to set and keep the tone that folks will walk away with thinking about the present. A solid example is front and center. You can't make folks do anything but discussing your own approach and what you get out of it has merit and worth. Respect is the key and based on you working this problem so deeply that will certainly come through in whatever you choose to talk about.
Sean Peters is actively sharing images as I write this and helping me get the word out for more.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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It sounds crazy, but we weren't out there for notoriety or recognition or money we were trying to escape all that nonsense. We did it for the challenge, the wildness, for the fun of it.
And to spray about it in slideshows. Maybe you will be hooked up with a sponsor after the presentation?! And groupies will likely follow it up too. There is so much glory in climbing it is unbelievable! Would be weird if you didn't specify your reasons in a post, as the whole community would think you did it all for the big money and fame, like the rest of us. Cuz that is pretty much what one is seeking when they share an experience. Make sure to avoid saying a climb you did was AWESOME or even good. Shows lack of humility. Actually, I'd advise you to stand there for an hour and tell everyone that back in the day no one sprayed. Don't show any photos and skip the stories about the climbs. Walk out, say 'I'm here to say real men don't spray." And walk away. Be the big man you dream to be.
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Steve thanks for the support. Knowing some of your first ascent history in Southern Arizona I imagine that you understand some of the exact feelings we are going through. I am honored to share these experiences with my heroes and peers, not so psyched about the parasites which may be in attendance. Such is life.
We camped with an internationally known alpinist after his aborted attempt on one route on Tooth (the easiest and best protected on the formation). I seem to remember him sort of chuckling when I mentioned concern the area might get overrun. He told us the rock was too soft, it was too dangerous, that most people have no interest at all in that sort of risk. That was a big relief to hear.
Indeed the very real hazards of this sort of climbing would be driven home a year or two later when I initiated a complicated rescue of a dear friend.
Vitaly - thank you for your ideas and thoughts.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2016 - 06:00pm PT
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Back in the early 1970s everything about Arizona climbing was guarded and kept quiet. Guide books were kept behind the counter and very little was written about what went on in the desert. You had to hear about routes and then seek out the folks doing them to get information much as it is today in the Grand Canyon and Vermilian Cliffs. Anyone that has climbed on sandstone and drives by the Vermilian Cliffs is aware of the extensive nature of that formation and the potential that it offers if you can deal with the rigors and demands involved. That is always going to weed out the vast majority of climbers that aren't drawn to explore the place more deeply as you have been.
Even by discussing the climbs that you have done out there you are still the gatekeeper regarding actual route information. The knuckleheads won't likely overrun the place as your friend observed. There will be some in the audience who will hear the same desert song that you did after spending time out in that arena and come back to savor what the place is about. They will appreciate the presentation that you are willing to offer at this gathering as a gift rather than any sort of betrayal.
This is the fourth Granitica Festival and I don't think any of the folks here on the ST that have attended one or all of them would characterize the proceedings as spraying with all due respect. More like sharing tales of adventure with a room full of friends, some yet unmet, for everyone's delight rather than any sort of chest beating exercise. My Festivals are about the power of mutual respect and deep appreciation for the resource that gives us so much as climbers. It takes time and experience to develop these qualities in a human being.
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Thank you Steve for helping remind me that the year of pilgrimage to the VC was mostly a grand time of discovery, of adventure and the unknown, following in the footsteps and dreams of those who came before. Few hear the exploration song as faint as it may be but for some the call is strong. I've spent some of the happiest and a few of the most physically grueling days of my life in the deserts. There is no doubt that some of the strongest friendships in my life are bound in part because of these random VC dreams.
The chance to tell a few stories and share some images with my heroes, peers and a generally receptive audience is an exciting prospect. I am thrilled to meet Spencer McIntire, the leader of the first ascent of Tooth, a truly epic 4 day odyssey almost 40 years ago. The LLR is a burly and dangerous route by most any persons standards. The slide show from George Bain is incredible and sure to please.
Here is a short poem published a number of years ago in Alpinist which sum up a few experiences as a bumbling climber trying to pass the time. Some will note a nod to SB, KK, PD, SG and other of my mentors, as well as a tribute to Layton and our time in the west deserts. Enjoy!
The Last Guidebook
1. I tiptoe up a sweeping slab. The quarter-inch bolt is a rust-colored spot only a dozen edges below. Dark granite leaves a chill on my fingertips while my stomach knots. A pair of ravens squawk from the cliff top; my partner is swallowed in tangle of brush. Something glimmers as I creep toward RP cracks: A new bolt on an ancient line? I crawl onto it, sigh, then clip several more. After a few ropelengths, we reach a shiny rap anchor forty feet from the summit. We climb on. Far off in the distance, a train whistles, and then the dunes are still.
2.
The full moon lies heavy on the eastern horizon. Warm Mojave air engulfs the truck. I look back toward the mountains, where the desert prophets of the Syndicato Granitica once chased visions across empty domes and unwritten walls. Driving down Route 66 beyond Peach Springs, I blare the oldies station in their tribute. I imagine them motoring along this lonely highway in the 1970s, years before the interstate—back when nuts were just coming into fashion and when chalk was still considered aid. What will it be like when it’s all been Bolted, Mapped and Published? Who will write the last guidebook? What will it be called? A boulder casts an enormous silhouette against the dull glow. I pull the truck over and walk into the velvet sky. I breathe in a million stars.
3.
Wind wails through the canyon, with the hope of spring. I’m climbing into the heart of a sandstorm on an unexplored cliff. Dust chokes ears, nose and eyes. Half-blinded, I hang on the crease where the sky and stone collide. The rhythmic tap of my hammer ends, and I prepare the bolt. Red powder oozes from the hole, then swirls out into infinity. Suddenly, it looks like blood. Am I, too, murdering the impossible? There’s a mark now, where before there was none. A pair of Bighorn sheep spot me, then sprint beyond the vanishing point. It’s as if I started the destruction of this secret wild land. Gumdrop-size hail bombards us. Is this my legacy? We race toward the overhang in search of shelter.
4. On a winter night, I stare into my computer screen. “Feds Plan to Remove All Bolts from Santa Claus Chimney,” reads the headline. “No Anchors Allowed in Powell’s Canyon,” proclaims the order. “Officials Remove All Bolts from Sacred Cave,” declares the blog. “Legal Concerns Prompt Landowner to Close Access,” announces the magazine. I weigh these lines against the memories of thick ripe air, sunlight on skin, hundred-mile views. Outside, snowflakes drift through darkness, covering fiery towers with a thick blanket of cold, new white. Can freedom be taken before it is even imagined?
5. I amble beside an elder mentor through a crisp spring morning. We marvel at the trickle of water in this wash—a rare gift. Quartz twinkles in the sun; we’re dazed by a wonderland of rock. Spires of desert junkoid form mute sentinels of our passage. When coyotes start singing, we giggle. Above our heads, a nameless crack floats for pitches into open azure. We whisper over lunch, gaze up once more—then walk away.
6. Desperate to beat the midday’s inferno, we’ve been awake for hours. Already a condor screams by in the infinite rays of the dawn fire. Almost extinct, this bird still manages to thrive in the stony nothing of the high desert. The night sky fades through finer shades of blue—at last into light. Morning splashes over rock with the promise of something simple, unmapped, ever new: another day. I tie in, match gazes with my partner and begin to climb.
—Albert Newman, Canyon, Arizona
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2016 - 06:43pm PT
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Bump for the Splendid Remains...
Beautiful shot pseudalpine! Thanks again for your help with such amazing images. Lots of very talented photographers have pitched in to make this Festival a Grand one!
Don't miss it folks as there won't be another Granitica Festival for a long time! I have a whole continent to cover.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2016 - 12:31pm PT
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I am pleased to announce that Jim Ohlman, Ken Walters and Robert Packard have been added to the list of speakers.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2016 - 10:38am PT
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I am hoping that Pete Gibbs will be able to come and talk about doing the FA of the first Grade V in the Canyon proper, The Grapevine Buttress. A long time guide and river runner Pete is most famous for designing the Gibbs Ascender. Originally created for use by cavers dealing with muddy ropes, the Gibbs soon found a wider application in expedition climbing as it works well on icy ropes too unlike Jumars.
The Grapevine Buttress rises right from the rivers edge and has been repeated a few times including an all free ascent involving Tommy Caldwell which was filmed as part of a sponsored trip. Has anyone seen this footage?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2016 - 02:42pm PT
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Bump for adventure climbing.
There will be plenty of great stories at this gathering so don't miss it.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Feb 16, 2016 - 08:27am PT
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I done't have stories of climbing in the Grand Canyon, but I do have few photos.
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Feb 16, 2016 - 11:11am PT
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crunch, I just heard about your show on the Friday night before this event and am planning to attend. Have only glanced at your book, but enjoyed your tribute to my friend Layton.
If anyone was curious about why I wrote early on that this part of my life is rarely shared with strangers hopefully your question has been answered by some of the comments on this thread. Over this past weekend I slipped into a profound depression, as sad as I was when Brian's girlfriend called to tell me of his suicide. Fortunately, with the help of Grossman and several well timed emails and phone calls from close friends this dark part of my life was very short lived. I sent a PM to the person who has been bullying and mocking me and kindly asked him to back off. Anyway, it was during this time of pain and confusion that I deleted all the photos on this thread.
Steve and I have reached a good compromise, as brief a presentation as possible, a couple score of slides, documenting what has been accomplished in the magical wilderness of the VC. I hope it turns out ok.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Feb 17, 2016 - 10:04am PT
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Bump for there Grand Canyon show.
And heads up that the fine folks at Flagstaff Climbing sweet-talked me into doing a show on Friday March 4, the evening right before the Templed Horizon Festival.
March, 2016 marks the 60th anniversary of an Arizona climbing “grand adventure”: the first ascent of 800-foot Spider Rock, in Canyon de Chelly. Expect some wild stories and colorful images of this and many more adventures on the desert towers of the Colorado Plateau.
The show features both historic highlights and some tales (some possible even true) of my own first ascents around the Fisher Towers and Canyonlands.
FREE event at Main Street Boulders
Friday, 7 pm, March 4, 2016
FREE! Wanderlust Keg for Adults.
Have a copy of Desert Towers: Fat Cat Summits and Kitty Litter Rock? Bring it to the event and get it signed by the author Steve ‘Crusher’ Bartlett!
I'll bring some copies of my book to sell, too.
Huge thanks to Flagstaff Climbing and to Steve Grossman. Looking forward to this, a great weekend!
Flagstaff Climbing's website with more details here:
http://flagstaffclimbing.com/4264-2/
The Facebook page for this event:
https://www.facebook.com/events/962067457206194/
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Feb 18, 2016 - 03:19pm PT
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Feb 18, 2016 - 05:35pm PT
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Hope you're bring signed books Crusher...
Bump for:
"I am pleased to announce that Jim Ohlman, Ken Walters and Robert Packard have been added to the list of speakers."
I'm not sure you could find 3 others whose combined mileage could match these guys. No offense to any of you other mad trompers.
Albert: Remember Rusty's presentation at the first festival? Not sure all understood the significance of that one. And maybe some won't get the choice of your order in the presentation but many will. You'll be among more kindred spirits at this event than I think you could find in any other rock show. You won't regret it... I know I won't regret hearing it. :-)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2016 - 05:56pm PT
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Pete Gibbs and Eric Eliason are confirmed to come and talk about the Grapevine Buttress, a Grade V which rises straight up from the rivers edge. Many of the formations in the Grand Canyon have been climbed from both rim and river but this one takes wall gear so floating it in is the ticket even though you have to camp in the rocks.
This is really going to be fun so don't miss it!
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Feb 19, 2016 - 02:20am PT
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Good scores Steve!
As always,looking forward to it.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2016 - 07:56am PT
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We are still looking for images of Pegasus, Paul's excellent route on Mount Hayden if anyone knows of a repeat ascent. Contact either of us.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Feb 19, 2016 - 10:53pm PT
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Cool formations near Peach Springs/Diamond Creek. Quite large, limestone.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2016 - 12:17pm PT
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Too funny Dwain!
Well Mike Sherrick can't make it but Pat Littlejohn sent me an excellent Powerpoint of the Book of Genesis so the show will go on!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2016 - 06:07pm PT
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Lots of room for adventure in this part of the world!
Compliments of the Library of Congress, 1928
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2016 - 01:36pm PT
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Dwain looks hungry so he should come to the Festival and sample some of the fine Cajun food being served up and sold by the good folks at BayouByYou at the MNA from 1:30-2:30pm on Saturday and Sunday.
The Food Truck will set up in the MNA parking lot and Tricia and J.D. will be serving food for the lunch hour break between presentations to save folks the hassle of running around to get a bite to eat.
See you there!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2016 - 12:26pm PT
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Bump with less than a week to go...
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Feb 29, 2016 - 08:18am PT
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At Toroweap, there's acres of vertical choss, untouched, that make the Black Canyon look friendly.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2016 - 03:40pm PT
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With a bit of luck Karl Karlstrom will be joining us and spend a little time on Sunday talking about the age of the Grand Canyon geologically speaking as he has spent decades doing research there.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2016 - 04:18pm PT
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For anyone planning on paying at the door tomorrow, please bring cash to speed up processing. $20 gets you in.
The Museum of Northern Arizona opens at 9 am so please come before 10 am so that we can get started on time. Once you enter the museum ask for the auditorium and you can check in at a table in the hallway near the doors.
See you there!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2016 - 06:47am PT
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Adventure climbing bump.
Come on down!
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DesertRatExpeditions
Trad climber
Flagstaff, Arizona
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This was truly an incredible event. Many thanks to Steve for all the work he put in to get all these incredible individuals in one room.
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Scott McNamara
climber
Tucson, Arizona
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Many thanks, Steve & Mimi!
It was great!
Really inspiring.
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dtop
Trad climber
Flagstaff
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One of the best climbing events I have been to, period. Thanks to everyone who presented and Steve for organizing.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Very well done Steve and Mimi. I was only able to attend Saturday due to a prior commitment with a jealous mistress (GCNP)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2016 - 01:37pm PT
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"So why go? Here the lure is neither colors nor silence, and not even the incomprehensible scale, which, after all, is... incomprehensible. No, what you live for down in the bowels of the earth are the special moments of beauty that come upon you so suddenly that you are speechless. It can be a dead agave cactus, its golden tan leaves crackling in the breeze. It can be a small cottonwood tucked away in an alcove, or a canyon wren whistling a descending song so winsome as to make you imitate its melody. Often, the magical moment of the day comes at the very end, when, thirsty and staggering under a 50-pound pack, you finally arrive in the area where you thought you might camp and, yes, there is water, life-giving water! This might be a tiny stream, it could be a tiny but deep pool where rainwater has collected; sometimes it is a mere seep in a canyon wall that shines with chartreuse moss...
It took many trips, over fifteen years, before I cam to utter these words of finality: "You know, I wouldn't mind living out here." Now as I approach middle age, I dream of leaving the big city behind forever and striding from my little adobe cabin at dawn and wandering into a new canyon, or through a solitary grove of aspens, or across crimson-orange slabs so smooth that they have been given an official name: slickrock.There is so much to see in the South-west - if you know how to look. John Cleare's images show that he knows how to look, but, of course, they are photographs, and not recorded is one of the most telling characteristics of the South-west: the silence. One could argue that mountains are silent, too, but so often they have a burbling stream, the wind coursing over a ridge, tremolos of thunder, the creak of a glacier, an avalanche or rockfall far in the distance. The canyon country of the South-west is the most silent place I have ever seen." Steve Roper from Distant Mountains edited by John Cleare 1998
A lot of folks mentioned the "canyon virus" during the Festival even Roper got it though it took a while.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Bump for never having seen Roper's quote (and having just come back from the N Rim...)
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