El Cap report gone??

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Messages 1 - 116 of total 116 in this topic

Batrock

Trad climber

Burbank

Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 11, 2015 - 02:10pm PT

Did the most recent pissing match cause the report to go missing?

klaus

climber

Slauson & Crenshaw

Oct 11, 2015 - 02:21pm PT

Tom nuked it after I called him out for re-naming a pitch on one of my routes. Only the first post is gone the rest of it is still there.

Batrock

Trad climber

Burbank

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2015 - 02:29pm PT

I thought he named a feature off to the right "twin towers"? Are the "towers" actually on the route? We gotta stop taking this shite so serious folks. It's just climbing.

GDavis

Social climber

SOL CAL

Oct 11, 2015 - 02:31pm PT

ITS A BIG DEAL.

pyro

Big Wall climber

Calabasas

Oct 11, 2015 - 02:34pm PT

Klaus u rock but be nice...

rollover.. screenshot is the sh#t..

Batrock

Trad climber

Burbank

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2015 - 02:34pm PT

NO, Justin Biebers is a BIG DEAL. This is just clambering.

MisterE

Gym climber

Being In Sierra Happy Of Place

Oct 11, 2015 - 02:38pm PT

Klaus has turned into Steve Grossman?

Batrock

Trad climber

Burbank

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2015 - 02:39pm PT

Thats it!! I'm nuking this thread! It's way outa control.

Batrock

Trad climber

Burbank

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2015 - 02:41pm PT

BTW Klaus, what are those Twin Tower features called on Crock Pot route?

Batrock

Trad climber

Burbank

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2015 - 02:42pm PT

I mean Pressure Cooker, sorry.

Burnin' Oil

Trad climber

Oct 11, 2015 - 02:57pm PT

Locker, is that"hump-a-rock" or "TAKE!!"? I always forget.

clinker

Trad climber

Santa Cruz, California

Oct 11, 2015 - 03:23pm PT

Thanks klaus. Now I understand where bounce testing came from.

thebravecowboy

climber

The Good Places

Oct 11, 2015 - 03:33pm PT

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Oct 11, 2015 - 04:27pm PT

Pressure Cooker topo, p.105 of Yosemite Climbs: Big Walls (1993) -
the named features on this topo are:

Swiller's Pillar at top of p5.

Panic Zone - p6

8 Ball Rollin' - p8

Norwegian

Trad climber

dancin on the tip of god's middle finger

Oct 11, 2015 - 05:08pm PT

don't f*#k with klaus.

there's much substance
behind his claims and gestures.

tom on the other hand,
he's a good cobra prop.
and way brash, at that.

dhayan

climber

los angeles, ca

Oct 11, 2015 - 05:11pm PT

Sounds like a d#@&%e bully to me, along with other more substantive things as well I'm sure...

MisterE

Gym climber

Being In Sierra Happy Of Place

Oct 11, 2015 - 06:11pm PT

Klaus is a badass, period.

His achievements stand a level above.

As far as I am concerned, he who was up there first gets to name features,

the community be damned.

I was just giving him sh1t cuz he's a friend.

+1 what Norwegian said.

Ricky D

Trad climber

Sierra Westside

Oct 11, 2015 - 06:18pm PT

Thanks pal - I'm never going to look at French Fries the same way again....

prick.

Ricky D

Trad climber

Sierra Westside

Oct 11, 2015 - 06:19pm PT

im going to get really drunk tonight, and then re-name every feature on El Cap after obscure, mystical figures from the Bhagavad Gita

Careful - I think Werner and his Lawyers hold the copyrights to that book.

WBraun

climber

Oct 11, 2015 - 06:25pm PT

I hear the "Duck" is renaming one of my routes to "Stupid American"

Sh!t !!!!!

Ho Mannnn ......

Ricky D

Trad climber

Sierra Westside

Oct 11, 2015 - 06:41pm PT

^^^Double that price if your chick is wearing Adidas tennies!

cavemonkey

Ice climber

Oct 11, 2015 - 06:47pm PT

This is good!!!!!!!
Really like tom and all hes done
But gotta side with kocky lil shiz on this one

climber

away from the ground

Oct 11, 2015 - 07:24pm PT

I say let the fat guy with the camera at the bridge that bitches about people's clothing colors, regardless of their desire to be photographed without permission, rename features on a route he's never climbed. Par for the course these days.

mynameismud

climber

backseat

Oct 11, 2015 - 07:30pm PT

Pressure Cooker topo, p.105 of Yosemite Climbs: Free Climbs (1993) -
the named features on this topo are:
Swiller's Pillar at top of p5.
Panic Zone - p6
8 Ball Rollin' - p8

Clint,
I love you man! Do you know that guy from Dragnet? Just that facts man.

cavemonkey

Ice climber

Oct 11, 2015 - 07:45pm PT

I got lots of pics of el cap
Or should i say shuniekoa!

ryankelly

Trad climber

Bhumi

Oct 11, 2015 - 09:37pm PT

chill out

overwatch

climber

Oct 11, 2015 - 11:31pm PT

Ballsy post, "F"

mouse from merced

Trad climber

The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.

Oct 12, 2015 - 12:21am PT

I'm laughing my ass off in Merced tonight.

I don't know who the f*#k Klaus is. He's arrogant, though, and nasty much of the time, his climbing skills be damned. He's a misanthrope.

He may be right and probably is, but who the hell really cares if his route only get done once every twenty years (or whatever its meager ascent record is) and who will care when we have all passed?

Klaus is no gentleman, he's a jerk.

I'm not defending Tom, who had his say and let it ride, like a gent.

I notice he's shut up, Klaus is in a corner butt-hurt, and only the lonely are posting on this ridiculous issue.

(Cat's out of the bag--I must be lonely.)

Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber

I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!

Oct 12, 2015 - 02:01am PT

full props for some dill weed screwing us all out of the best TR on the planet, Tom's stuff is the only good thing left here,

Prod

Trad climber

Oct 12, 2015 - 06:34am PT

Oct 11, 2015 - 06:22pm PT
I am considering renaming Half Dome...

I know! Since the rock-fall it's only like 63/64ths Dome!

Wouldn't it be 31/64ths Dome?

Prod.

RP3

Big Wall climber

Twain Harte

Oct 12, 2015 - 06:52am PT

Goodness gracious.

Klaus climbed and named a crack system that runs on the right side of a series of water streaks, naming it "8 Ball Rollin'" as part of the route Pressure Cooker. He also climbed a crack system on the left side of those streaks and named it "Toofus Tormenter." as part of High Plains Dripper.

Tom names those series of streaks "The Twin Towers" after a resemblance he sees. I'm not sure I see a problem with with this. Nobody's FA work is being disrespected and now people have another way of seeing something in the cliff.

Chill out, people. Don't pick up your pitchforks and chase away some of the last interesting climbing content on this website.

FrankZappa

Trad climber

Hankster's crew

Oct 12, 2015 - 07:02am PT

Could someone clarify this "renaming"? In reference to Tom, from a different thread:
"He did so by renaming pressure cooker a hard 'Klaus line and the features that the route climbs past."
Here's what I don't understand:
1)Apparently Tom renamed the route "Pressure Cooker"? What did he rename it to?
2)Folks are saying that Tom renamed a named feature on "Pressure Cooker". I see that Tom is calling something the "Twin Tower", but what was it called on the "Pressure Cooker" topo? I have looked at the topos and can't figure this out, and Tom's photo of dude climbing Waterfall Route with said feature in photo did not have the pitch number.

Chaz

Trad climber

greater Boss Angeles area

Oct 12, 2015 - 07:17am PT

I really enjoyed those El Cap reports.

Thanks, Klaus.

overwatch

climber

Oct 12, 2015 - 07:18am PT

I predict that just like most everyone else, he will be back.

Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber

Out Of Bed

Oct 12, 2015 - 07:20am PT

I am not one to comment I am way out of my pay scale to do so.
That said I bumped my most recent acknowledged a simple bump of
appreciation for what the El Cap Pictures site means to many many people.
We more than like Tom and all he does, his photos get a few of us through long nights.
Crappy days are made tolerable when you can loose your self for a bit on the boot flake or what ever picture takes you.

So that it is here this was all that I had said based on a brief view of the thread, before it parted ways, I - the screen shot showed it - that small exchange,
my memory is tainted, so I am not always good at getting things right !.!,.??
Life on Lipitor = forrgetta' 'bout it, = LOL or may be ?. . . .
4/20 everyday? ( that would be nice )

So this is what I said

That was a bunch crap th other day
Klaus was in the right to be pissed off at Tom
Tom wants to make a tweek here or there to
The complexe stout story of the climbs.
In doing so he uses a ham hock for a writing style
The style does not lend it self to giving full credit or history.

Tom wanted to referance in re era ve the World Trade Center and the 9/11 event
He did so by renaming defining streak features of pressure cooker a hard 'Klaus line and the features that the route climbs past.
With the stuff that eric Kole? Klaus went after the man.
It is a slap at the distinct reputation of a climber and his hard work to disregard
And re-name features, pitches or routes.
The only way to get the right to name a route is through the agreement of the climbers involved with the climbing.

Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber

Out Of Bed

Oct 12, 2015 - 07:56am PT

I almost want to beg Clint to say if he knows of any other changes?
But he is above this shite. . .

As to go to a stretch of a climb . . .

the fk-en hardest( hooking?) part of a route,

That is "8-Ball rolling,"- the real deal crux?!?,- and looks like -sickly committing !!

And re-name it for water streaks, or patriotic feelings. Or your latest whim?
.????

To Re name it was . . .

An insult

the climbing of systems of cracks faces lines on rocks or cliffs
Get names from the climbers who climb them not the 'Birds'" who watch.

Or that guy who didn't make it?

No he gets his choice name turned around to insult or just blown off, that is how it has been
That's how it goes.

Or will you'all rename things that get retro bolted?
Is not what has been the way in the Valley or anywhere.

couchmaster

climber

Oct 12, 2015 - 08:10am PT

Klaus needs to go to a finishing school..... or obedience training with the other angry yappy poodles. Being a good climber shouldn't excuse being rude. But I'd agree that Tom doesn't get to rename things that a FA has named. That said: I'll donate some money to Tom now, he's a good dude and doesn't need to be slandered in that manner. All but one of us apparently still appreciates him:-)

Tom's version reply to EK, quote:

"In other news: The recent naming of the two, previously unnamed, golden rectangles on the upper east side, has brought a protest from the climber that put up a new route on part of one of those features. On the route “Pressure Cooker” the respondent claims that he named those huge golden areas, years ago. When one examines the topo one sees the names of several pitches but nothing about a large, golden rectangle. It is never mentioned and thus it was never named by the respondent. The recent naming of those huge features, now called “The Twin Towers” is not a renaming of already named features from a previous time. The name of the respondents climb, and its pitches have not been changed in any way, nor should they be. The topo now is the same as the topo has always been. I tried to have a conversation, on line, with this person but he is unable to have a civil conversation about anything, so I am stating the facts here.

So that’s the way it is, for this Sunday, the 11th day of October, 2015."

Erik Kohls previous words:

"Twin Towers? So now my route Pressure Cooker got re-named by some fat guy with a camera sitting at a bridge who has never and will never climb it?

OK, got it."

:Sorry but you are wrong. Those golden features already had names from over 20 years ago. Have you ever bothered to look in a guidebook? I figured you were just ignorant.

I read in one of your previous "reports" that you yourself named it, now it's "the community"? which is it? "

RP3

Big Wall climber

Twain Harte

Oct 12, 2015 - 08:31am PT

Reading this thread is like watching a Republican Presidential Debate. An inaccuracy is stated at the beginning of the conversation and screamed loudly enough until it become de-facto truth.

Tom never renamed anything. He named some streaks on the rock. He did NOT rename a route or a pitch or anything of the like. Check the facts, haters.

canyoncat

Social climber

SoCal

Oct 12, 2015 - 08:52am PT

This isn't the first time Tom has thrown a toddler tantrum. Call the waaaambulance, his wittle feewings are hurt.

mouse from merced

Trad climber

The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.

Oct 12, 2015 - 08:57am PT

Farspook, I feel so chastised now.

Whatever would we do without yur pithy observations, ya saliva-tongued old devil.

Kinky, but I'd wear a tie pin that said I Bin Farouked, if I were wearin' ties still.

A bumper sticker might be even better.

"I dared to disagree with Farouk AND LIVED!"

Alpamayo

Trad climber

Davis, CA

Oct 12, 2015 - 09:14am PT

This isn't the first time Tom has thrown a toddler tantrum. Call the waaaambulance, his wittle feewings are hurt.

Oh, the irony of that statement.

Dave

Mountain climber

the ANTI-fresno

Oct 12, 2015 - 09:18am PT

"I say let the fat guy with the camera at the bridge that bitches about people's clothing colors, regardless of their desire to be photographed without permission, rename features on a route he's never climbed. Par for the course these days."

In other news...

Does Tom get model releases from the climbers he photographs?

If not, he could get sued someday... Anyone else not like having their image on the interwebs without their knowledge or permission?

https://asmp.org/tutorials/property-and-model-releases.html#.VhvcfysXG70

Alexey

climber

San Jose, CA

Oct 12, 2015 - 09:19am PT

I would rename Crack of Doom and Crack of Despair to
Crack of Joy and Crack of Happiness

GDavis

Social climber

SOL CAL

Oct 12, 2015 - 09:20am PT

Woah woah woah, let's not get things twisted.

Klaus is a bad ass mother f*#ker. Tom is a decent guy but probably a little thin skinned.

Did Klaus get drunk and call out a guy who took it personally? Do we all do that sometimes?

I was one of the first people to sh#t on the pettiness, but I'm not going to pretend that this has any reflection on either of their characters.

Internet drama, people. Don't let that sh#t carry over.

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Offset

climber

seattle

Oct 12, 2015 - 09:28am PT

not to mention that he'll gladly leave you out of the report w/ no pictures if you ask him to.

GDavis

Social climber

SOL CAL

Oct 12, 2015 - 09:31am PT

I like people that climb smack dab in the middle of the most popular national park, on the main stage, in front of a dozen high powered lenses... and expect a wilderness experience.

Watkins is just sittin' there all ronery...

FrankZappa

Trad climber

Hankster's crew

Oct 12, 2015 - 09:47am PT

I really like the El cap report.

Bummer folks seem to be upset with Tom. What is the goal here.... no el cap report?

I'm still trying to figure out what he renamed the route "Pressure Cooker" to. What is the "new" name?

Also trying to figure out which pitch on the "Pressure Cooker" topo got "renamed"?

I'm not seeing any connection.

Yeah, Klaus is a bad-ass and Tom is not.

What does that have to do with anything?

I think Klaus just got a little annoyed at Tom naming a feature that is close to his route, and now his subbies are carrying the hate torch since Klaus has slept it off and seems to be done with it.

Anyway, Klaus certainly could have addressed this in a nicer way and been more specific as to what he has issues with.

Big Mike

Trad climber

Oct 12, 2015 - 10:11am PT

Eric Kohl

You're a badass man! Why ruin your rep being a tw#t on the internet??

I know you have beef with Tom. Why not just let him know in a civil manner what your problem is and leave it at that? Calling people names just makes you look like a big baby. You deleted all your badass material and now contribute whining? Weak sauce bro.

climbski2

Mountain climber

Anchorage AK, Reno NV

Oct 12, 2015 - 10:17am PT

^ ding ding ding We have a winner.

Studly

Trad climber

Oct 12, 2015 - 10:57am PT

Looser thread.

Prod

Trad climber

Oct 12, 2015 - 11:18am PT

Is a loser a loser for spelling loser as looser ?

Saw that too....

Prod.

Roots

Mountain climber

Tustin, CA

Oct 12, 2015 - 11:41am PT

Tradition is just that folks...TRADITION.

Now play nice and go climb something!

Studly

Trad climber

Oct 12, 2015 - 12:56pm PT

loose

adj. loos·er, loos·est

11. Characterized by a free movement of fluids in the body: loose bowels.

I am a very good speler and don't make no misstakes. Could be worse, I could be a canadian hand jockey like Jim.

clinker

Trad climber

Santa Cruz, California

Oct 12, 2015 - 03:08pm PT

Nice.

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Oct 12, 2015 - 05:28pm PT

Or just Happy Cracker!

Norwegian

Trad climber

dancin on the tip of god's middle finger

Oct 12, 2015 - 05:33pm PT

right on, klaus.

minor tom wants
some limelight, too.
and he's got
get creative
in his pursuit.

taking internet
cheap shots
is his version
of the right hook.

he's like, king
of the playground,
and shite.

he's like the pusher,
giving us screen pukes
eye candy, and we
bow down when he's in town.

it makes me less
domestic to see you
and other people of
substance take a good
and proper stand against
the dull blades
in the drawer.

Ottawa Doug

Social climber

Ottawa, Canada

Oct 12, 2015 - 05:37pm PT

Young man (men??)

TAKE A DEEP BREATH

dhayan

climber

los angeles, ca

Oct 12, 2015 - 05:45pm PT

Is this the new first world problems thread?

survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Oct 12, 2015 - 06:15pm PT

Forgive me father for I have sinned.

I have gone to a climbing gym.

I enjoyed it.

And got my ass kicked in the process.

Being great back in the day doesn't give you the right to be an as#@&%e...

clinker

Trad climber

Santa Cruz, California

Oct 12, 2015 - 06:20pm PT

"I started climbing when men were men... and we nailed 5.8." — TM Herbert.

WBraun

climber

Oct 12, 2015 - 06:51pm PT

You climbers always have to get somewhere and then get drunk on some shitty beer?

Shows you can't focus and need to blur reality ......

Gene

climber

Oct 12, 2015 - 07:05pm PT

I DEMAND that guy at the BRIDGE cease and DESIST until he properly calls that report __The TU-TOK-A-NU'-LA Report__.

And he'd better start posting it in the language of the Miwok.

Plaidman

Trad climber

South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA

Oct 12, 2015 - 07:28pm PT

Ok this is PtPP writing on Plaids phone

We love mouse. You guys are a bunch of whining pussies. Stfu and get on the wall. It's just a f*#king water streak for f*#ks sakes

We have renamed The Pecking Order as The Gobi Desert and the Sharks Fin as Mongolian Shark Fin Soup. Rubberband Man will be Elastic Plaid

Posers Shut up and climb.

Cheers Pete Jerry Plaid

RyanD

climber

Oct 12, 2015 - 07:34pm PT

Tom should just go up there and free the route. Then he could call it whatever he wants and nobody would say sh#t.

Justin Sanchez

Big Wall climber

Valley

Oct 12, 2015 - 08:19pm PT

My posts always get deleted. Because I post so infrequently my account bails and when I do post its deleted because it's "my first post", and too opinionated apparently, even though I've been posting since the inception.

Personally I'm glad to see that Tom "The Great inextricably linked photographer of El Cap" is not posting. Here's why; Tom is not a climber, Toms "reports" are extremely redundant, opinionated, and boring... "Here's another party in the grey bands wearing shirts that aren't favorable for me... Pukes"

There are MANY people who agree Toms constant judgements and generic photography do nothing more than turn El Cap into full blown Gong Show. Some may love it, ALOT of us don't.

Sorry if you're not used to criticism Tom but I for one suggest you drive home for the season and don't return next year. The Cap and its climbers could use a breath of fresh air. The "bail of the day" Gong Show bs and praising those who make the king swing and criticizing those that don't is tired and stupid. Get a life, move on.

MisterE

Gym climber

Being In Sierra Happy Of Place

Oct 12, 2015 - 08:27pm PT

^^^So... there's that.

Hard argument against the paparazzi and subsequent glorification of the lense.

This is getting interesting.

Ricky D

Trad climber

Sierra Westside

Oct 12, 2015 - 08:31pm PT

Seriously guys - we have managed to beat down a retired High School Teacher who spent his retirement money on cameras and a tent who likes to take pictures of self-possessed as#@&%es on some rock?

As if the 99.999999% of the rest of the world gives a sh#t.

MisterE

Gym climber

Being In Sierra Happy Of Place

Oct 12, 2015 - 08:33pm PT

^^^So there's that...

survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Oct 12, 2015 - 08:33pm PT

Tom is/was a climber.
I believe he was on the 3rd ascent of the Regular Route on Half Dome.

Justin Sanchez

Big Wall climber

Valley

Oct 12, 2015 - 08:50pm PT

Tom does not climb. He constantly judges and criticizes, lest he be judged and criticized. ANYBODY can buy a camera, stand on the bridge, take photos, and add opinionated commentary. I don't believe Tom is the intrinsic part of El Cap he thinks he is weather he climbed at one point or not.

I will speak for myself now and say I would love nothing more than the El Cap report to go away permanently and some serenity and non-judgement, anonymity to return to the Captain.

MisterE

Gym climber

Being In Sierra Happy Of Place

Oct 12, 2015 - 08:53pm PT

How is that "return to more peaceful times" working out for you in the new, racy world?

I am guessing you are not happy?

Ricky D

Trad climber

Sierra Westside

Oct 12, 2015 - 08:58pm PT

I will speak for myself now and say I would love nothing more than the El Cap report to go away permanently and some serenity and non-judgement, anonymity to return to the Captain

Let me guess - you bailed. Tom caught it on film and posted it online. You got embarrassed because some classmate in your GED recovery program called you out on it and now you can't have sex with your Mom.

Alpamayo

Trad climber

Davis, CA

Oct 12, 2015 - 09:01pm PT

If you read judgement into the ECR (and your name is not Pete), you've got some serious self esteem issues.

couchmaster

climber

Oct 12, 2015 - 09:02pm PT

Oh no you didn't just say that Ricky. Dear lord I can't stop laughing.

Ricky D said:

"Let me guess - you bailed. Tom caught it on film and posted it online. You got embarrassed because some classmate in your GED recovery program called you out on it and now you can't have sex with your Mom. "

Ho Lee Fuk dude.....ROTFLOL........

Justin Sanchez

Big Wall climber

Valley

Oct 12, 2015 - 09:24pm PT

You guys are funny. Maybe Tom should launch an expedition to Baffin island this year. Plenty of big wall traffic. All he has to do is stand there, point, shoot, add commentary. I hear the lighting is good this time of year, and lots of bailers to get called out. See all you topo posters in the Vally, or actually probably not. Goodnight and goodbye.

climber

Cardiff by the sea

Oct 12, 2015 - 09:31pm PT

^^^ well said Kevin. I agree the photography is inspiring and enjoyable for all intents and purpose. But really how many shots of the nipple pitch and the king swing can a guy look at. I to have had the luxury to have shared the captain with nobody but my partner a thing of the past I am sure unless your willing to climb in winter. I have beed highlighted in the ECR and have enjoyed both aspects but it is a full on gong show now. guess it has been for quite some time. the ECR report is a love hate relationship. I must admit i still have a look a couple times a week to see whats going on. I like the pics but the commentary is ...... well it is a what it is a commentary.

All due respect Tom

hooblie

climber

from out where the anecdotes roam

Oct 12, 2015 - 09:36pm PT

you know that if the private sector drops the ball on this el cap surveillance program the replacement will be appointed by that lame duck sneakin' smokes on the back porch and we're not takin' werner here

sac

Trad climber

Sun Coast B.C.

Oct 12, 2015 - 09:43pm PT

Wow... PTPPP is kinda fat,eh? Huh.
Anyway, carry on...
I think the ECP inspires others to go climb El Cap.
And that's cool.
This bad juice sucks.

mcreel

climber

Barcelona

Oct 12, 2015 - 11:34pm PT

El Cap Report is in the same place as always:
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=el+cap+report

I suppose that the features on El Cap are also in the same place they were.

elcap-pics

Big Wall climber

Crestline CA

Oct 13, 2015 - 06:59am PT

You approval is not required. Don't like it ... don't read it... simple.

Also the report is not written for supertopo lukers... it is for the climbers on the route and all their friends, parents and loved ones who want to see how their loved one is doing. Sure the shots are repetitive and I too get bored with the same shots all the time... but the shots are not for me or you.. they are for the people in them. I always ask people "what is the best climbing shot in the world?" The answer is.... "the one you are in." So if you are bored with the report then just remember that is not about you or written for you.

FrankZappa

Trad climber

Hankster's crew

Oct 13, 2015 - 07:23am PT

I will speak for myself now and say I would love nothing more than the El Cap report to go away permanently and some serenity and non-judgement, anonymity to return to the Captain.

Couldn't disagree more. I look forward to the reports since I live in a different state and El Cap isn't part of my climbing at this point in life. Tom's commentary is a funny reminder of how harsh us climbers can be with each other; just look at that silly website called Supertopo....

If you don't like the commentary or report, don't read it. The folks in the meadow, Deli, or Camp 4 rip on each other equally, and lets face it, it doesn't matter WHO does an el cap report like Tom's, SOMEBODY would have an issue with it at some point.

Maybe Klaus should do a guest commentary....

RP3

Big Wall climber

Twain Harte

Oct 13, 2015 - 07:25am PT

rollover, gnome of diabase, del cross, and anyone else quick to pass judgment without actually checking the facts: I'm going to repost what I posted earlier:

Klaus climbed and named a crack system that runs on the right side of a series of water streaks, naming it "8 Ball Rollin'" as part of the route Pressure Cooker. He also climbed a crack system on the left side of those streaks and named it "Toofus Tormenter." as part of High Plains Dripper.

Tom names those series of streaks "The Twin Towers" after a resemblance he sees. I'm not sure I see a problem with with this. Nobody's FA work is being disrespected and now people have another way of seeing something in the cliff.

Chill out, people. Don't pick up your pitchforks and chase away some of the last interesting climbing content on this website.

To write it in proverbial crayon: NO ROUTES WERE RENAMED!!!!!!!!!!

To reply to the rest of the (unrelated to the original question) griping: If think Tom's photographs are boring, don't look at them. If you don't like Tom's writing style, don't read it. If you don't want Tom's to report on your ascent, tell him. If you don't like the amusement park atmosphere around El Cap, go climb any of the other walls in Yosemite or save your El Cap ascent for the other 2/3rds of the year.

Regarding the people doing the name calling: Think about what you say before you type. Tom had early repeats of several El Cap routes, back when climbing those routes was a really big deal. Now he is a retired old(er) man whose interests lie in climbing photography. I hope you haters are doing something that productive and inspirational with yourself when you are deep into retirement. What Tom is doing with his life is an awful lot more admirable than being an anonymous (likely also overweight) hater hiding behind a keyboard and an avatar.

-Roger Putnam

Norwegian

Trad climber

dancin on the tip of god's middle finger

Oct 13, 2015 - 07:31am PT

plights are not inherited;
tom brings
this harsh criticism
upon himself.

and then acts surprised
when he receives it.

Alpamayo

Trad climber

Davis, CA

Oct 13, 2015 - 07:33am PT

irony again

k-man

Gym climber

SCruz

Oct 13, 2015 - 07:43am PT

So now my route Pressure Cooker got renamed ...

Uh, no Klaus, it didn't. Calm down. The features & pitches you named still have those names.

+1 4 RP3

survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Oct 13, 2015 - 07:49am PT

If Tom was on the 3rd ascent of the RR he'd be over 95-years-old now

Baloney. Royal Robbins is only 80.

Norwegian

Trad climber

dancin on the tip of god's middle finger

Oct 13, 2015 - 08:31am PT

the matter at hand is respect.

despite cultural dilution,
not all of us consider
respect a triviality.

tom demands respect.
eric earns it.

elcap-pics

Big Wall climber

Crestline CA

Oct 13, 2015 - 08:33am PT

I never made the 3rd ascent of any wall. I did make the 33rd of the Nose in May of 71 with the great Paul Sibley.

I am somewhat amazed that you people have nothing better to do than keeping this ridiculous thread going. Such is the life a those with nothing much to do.

10b4me

Social climber

Retired

Oct 13, 2015 - 08:39am PT

I am somewhat amazed that you people have nothing better to do than keeping this ridiculous thread going. Such is the life a those with nothing much to do. Here

Tom, it's just another example of why stuportopo is f'd up.

Note to Eric Kohl, it's just a rock climb. Get over it, and yourself.

Alpamayo

Trad climber

Davis, CA

Oct 13, 2015 - 09:11am PT

I've never seen Tom demand any respect. And if Eric ever had earned any respect, he sure has lost some of it here with this childish rant.

Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber

Out Of Bed

Oct 13, 2015 - 09:17am PT

Yup I stood up
I made a comment in an arena I should have stayed seated in.
The way that E K has acted,, to us, the others here posing, svcks!
By yanking all the solid content & great photos was just to take his walls and go....
He can and did. .
Big man back in the day but we all were in our own way,

"You should see the chicks. . . . . ' blah blah BS.

But when you just go out and slam a good and generous soul . . . .
add nothing but bile. . .
You show your self to be one of the lucky miserable climbers, there are more than a few.
who are undeserving of the Respect derived from this community's opaque rules of acceptance.

crunch

Social climber

Oct 13, 2015 - 10:28am PT

I am somewhat amazed that you people have nothing better to do than keeping this ridiculous thread going. Such is the life a those with nothing much to do.

It's actually a really interesting and important thread. Some great posts.

Back in early 1980s climbed El Cap a half-dozen times. Back then, up on El Cap, we were very much in our own, private world. No internet, no cell phones. Very, very few people had cameras and lenses that could depict climbers as anything more than merest, fuzzy dots.

There was an expectation of privacy; there was a unique, fantastic feeling of being alone, adrift, separate. And this was within reach of any half-competent climber. No need to be sponsored or be wealthy, travel to some exotic, expensive place like Greenland or Antarctica. Some of my finest climbing memories are from El Cap, the swifts, the exposure, the vast vertical world. Salathe Wall the finest rock climb on Earth.

I have respect for Tom and what he's built up, his fine photography and website (though after a few pics my eyes kinda glaze over....). If not Tom, it'd be someone else. But, I will never climb El Cap again, and the El Cap report is one reason why.

EDIT: mouse, last route was PO Wall, late 1983. Next was gonna be Sea of Dreams. You're right, reasons are many, the El Cap report is a symptom of the changes. And many of the changes are with me and what I look for, which is a more remote, wilder experience. One step ahead of the crowds. Or several steps sideways.

mouse from merced

Trad climber

The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.

Oct 13, 2015 - 10:31am PT

So, Jewell, how do Post Toasties taste when they are sprinkled with sh#t?

It's painfully obvious someone dumped some in your bowl this morning.

See you later, you cheerful soul.

Your toast's burning.

Crunch, your post's hot. But it's not cool to blame any one else for personal decisions, my man. That doesn't sound quite right to me, though. Don't blast me. I'm still thinking...

Okay, what if Tom were not there? What then? Who would you call and what route appeals to you?

ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber

Ogden, Utah

Oct 13, 2015 - 10:37am PT

tom, I will pay you TOP $$$ for a pic of any chick dropping a deuce on El Cap !!!!!!!!!!

That is disgusting!!! It's even more disturbing that it actually happens.

I really liked the 8 Ball Roll'n pitch, harder than it looks. I've never heard of it called the Twin Towers, pretty misleading since they aren't actual towers.

Cool rock in that section of El Cap.

carry on...

mikeyschaefer

climber

Sport-o-land

Oct 13, 2015 - 10:38am PT

If you don't like the report don't read it. Pretty simple really.

I for one do like the report and really appreciate the photography. And I'm not an amateur arm chair critic. I'm make my living making photos and editing photos. Toms body of work is incredible. Someday I look forward to getting his book...

A great way to show your support for Tom is to head over to ElCapreport and click on that donate button. I just sent him my annual subscription.

Keep it up Tom.

Jim Herson

climber

Emerald Hills, CA

Oct 13, 2015 - 10:51am PT

"He constantly judges and criticizes, ... and add opinionated commentary."

During the Dawn Wall media frenzy, Tom's emotional, heartfelt, insightful, nuanced, detailed, expert recount of Kevin's heart pounding, back-to-the-wall send of pitch 15 was second to none.

survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Oct 13, 2015 - 11:06am PT

IT TOTALLY LOOKS LIKE THE TWIN TOWERS ! it's ridiculously obvious - DUH !!!!!

The twin towers are quite easy to see actually, although it probably would never have been called that until after 9/11.

So what is Pressure Cooker anyway? Is it a massively classic route with tons of 5 star climbing on it, or is it a scare fest crammed between routes?

Weeg, EK didn't earn anything in particular. Being a great climber is one thing. Being an as#@&%e is another. He wouldn't be the first who qualified as both.

I prefer people like Gill and Donini, who have proven over and over that they are great climbers and great humans both.

JEleazarian

Trad climber

Fresno CA

Oct 13, 2015 - 11:08am PT

Grown men breaking one another down and disparaging each other...over a stone. Really?

Amen, Cragman! I enjoy the El Cap report, and Tom's superb photos. I also enjoyed his short, photo-filled articles in Summit magazine decades ago about his climbs of the Nose and, if I remember rightly (which I doubt), Half Dome. But I also have the greatest respect for Erik's climbs and climbing. Besides, he offers a good deal on copper- and alumiheads. Why must I disparage either of them?

John

JEleazarian

Trad climber

Fresno CA

Oct 13, 2015 - 11:15am PT

There was an expectation of privacy; there was a unique, fantastic feeling of being alone, adrift, separate.

I'm not so sure, Crunch. After all, the first ascent of the Nose got rescheduled because of the traffic jams it caused in 1957. Don Lauria, writing in 1967 about the third ascent of the Dihedral Wall, wrote about reaching The Ledge, something to the effect of "Dennis [Hennek] strips to cool down, shocking the telescope viewers."

I think it's much harder to feel the loneliness now because of all of the other parties on the face, and the lack of novelty in ascending El Cap, not because of people with telephoto lenses on El Cap Bridge. When I first started climbing in 1967, any ascent of any Grade VI on El Cap was a big deal, and we often went to watch if we knew someone was on the wall. Now, ascents are so commonplace that it has the feel of the Apron near Monday Morning Slab in 1970.

Ascents of hard routes are still adventurous and rare, but the sense of isolation of being alone on an enormous wall is no longer an El Cap phenomenon.

John

PolishClimber

Trad climber

Oct 13, 2015 - 11:17am PT

This is a strange and unnecessary debate... but it got me thinking. FA's are rightly afforded a great amount of respect. A first ascent requires the initial vision, and usually great skill in completing the journey from first to last. We memorialize this in guide books and list the names of the folks, and the FA party rightly get the last say on almost issues regarding the route (bolts, style, etc).

BUT

By climbing a section of a granite on the face of El Cap, does that give you carte blanche naming rights to every square inch of your route for all of eternity, to be used by everyone? By being there first, do you suddenly own every speck of rock on the face? Bolt placement and climbing style is one thing... But ownership of the names of the features on the rock disheartens me. If it is correct in the guidebook, and the FA party was properly consulted, what is the issue? It is my understanding that Pressure Cooker is correctly named in the book, as are the features.

The boot flake was called the boot flake because it looks like a flippin' boot. No debate necessary. But does it really matter if someone wants to call it something else? Does it take something away from you personally? It seems sad to think that whoever touches a section of rock first "owns" it. It feels like we should be above that, but ego is tied up in climbing.

El Capitan©

clinker

Trad climber

Santa Cruz, California

Oct 13, 2015 - 11:41am PT

What did Lynn rename the Nose as, after freeing it.

survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Oct 13, 2015 - 11:42am PT

The boot flake was called the boot flake because it looks like a flippin' boot. No debate necessary.

Are you talking about backwards L flake?

EdwardT

Trad climber

Retired

Oct 13, 2015 - 11:45am PT

It's unfortunate to see another top tier contributor run off.

Woe is us.

madbolter1

Big Wall climber

Denver, CO

Oct 13, 2015 - 11:50am PT

another top tier contributor run off

That's "went and runn-oft."

crunch

Social climber

Oct 13, 2015 - 12:03pm PT

Nice post, JEleazarian.

I think maybe there was huge public interest for a handful of earliest ascents but then this largely vanished.

Recently, it's gone full circle; technology has changed/improved so much (cell phones, cameras, internet), it's made it so easy for anyone to closely observe what's going on. In this thread I see at least one post from people actually up on El Cap.

There was a window for a decade or two where you could be up on a wall and virtually no one would know you were there, no one would see you. And in turn you were utterly out of touch with the outside world for a few days. That was a nice feeling. The old movie El Capitan captures something of this, the stillness, silence, surreal remoteness amid fear and truly majestic vertical architecture.

Perhaps I was just really lucky to have been climbing big walls at that time. It's a different experience now and I think I'd find the experience less appealing.

Again, no disrespect to Tom and his report. It's all a part of this change. We can't go back; if Tom tires of what he's doing, someone else will step up; he seems like a pretty good ambassador for explaining what's going on up on El Cap to the rest of the world in 2015.

Klaus is a great ambassador for how things used to be up there when being polite to others was not part of the job description.

madbolter1

Big Wall climber

Denver, CO

Oct 13, 2015 - 12:09pm PT

You totally misunderstood me. I was joking based upon one of my favorite lines from "Oh Brother Where Art Thou."

What makes it funny is that Tom did NOT went and runn-oft. He's still there. He just doesn't care to engage in the STUPID pissing, dik-measuring contests that constitute MOST of the threads like this one. So, he's not HERE, on this cesspool of a thread.

I thought to contribute a bit of levity, and felt a bit dirty to have ANYTHING to do with this sick-puppy thread. My mistake.

I'll now go runn-oft too.

EdwardT

Trad climber

Retired

Oct 13, 2015 - 12:26pm PT

Bullshnert to EdT and MB1 !

This is what everyone cries for; a climbing thread. Tom has contributed to this thread and is still doing the El Cap Report. It's easy to just book mark his web page and keep up on his photos and comments. Or not if that's how you feel.

He's no longer contributing to SuperTopo.

Hope that clears it up for you.

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Oct 13, 2015 - 12:36pm PT

There was a window for a decade or two where you could be up on a wall and virtually no one would know you were there, no one would see you. And in turn you were utterly out of touch with the outside world for a few days.
Perhaps I was just really lucky to have been climbing big walls at that time. It's a different experience now and I think I'd find the experience less appealing.

Gotta disagree, Crusher. That experience of being up there completely alone and completely out of touch with the world is still readily available. Just not on El Cap.

There are thousands upon thousands of big walls in the world. Yes, many are in places difficult to reach. But many are not.

In fact, one of the best climbing books in the whole history of the universe is about one group of such walls, not all that far from Yosemity. But you already know that, cuz you wrote the damn thing!

Seriously, anyone who wants that lost-in-space feeling of being alone on a big wall can find it pretty easily.

JEleazarian

Trad climber

Fresno CA

Oct 13, 2015 - 12:36pm PT

Thanks, Crunch. Those were good comments, yourself.

I, too, was lucky to be climbing then. When I first started climbing in the Valley, we rarely saw or heard another party, even on short, relatively popular routes. Of course, that's probably because we were naively climbing in the Valley in the middle of summer, rather than in the Meadows or someplace similar. Starting up the Royal Arches, we felt like we were heading up the Salathe Wall in 1961 - totally alone and cowed by the size of the wall. (Incidentally, the first ascent party described the "Rotten Log" as merely "an old tree trunk," so renaming features has a history in the Valley).

I can still find that kind of adventure and solitude in the Valley, as can others who put forth the effort. I just need to work a little harder to get there, and ignore current fashion in climbing.

John

Burnin' Oil

Trad climber

Oct 13, 2015 - 12:37pm PT

What a weird world.

couchmaster

climber

Oct 13, 2015 - 01:35pm PT

Feel free to hit the Elcap reports paypal donate button on the left when perusing the 10-12 update. Or not, still a free country. I tossed him some and he was very happy.

http://www.elcapreport.com/

Elcap-reports said:

"I am now involved with shooting for Adidas so this may be the last report on a regular basis… I will see what I can put together at the end of each day. Stay tuned."

Hope they pay better than us, congrats on the new gig Tom!

Offset

climber

seattle

Oct 13, 2015 - 02:10pm PT

from here it looks like allllll el cap ascents are being documented by tom. but that's because it is impossible to report on those not being reported.

plenty of folks are scending with nobody being the wiser. i've talked to plenty people in the meadows or camp4 that just got off the wall and never even heard of tom.

you can have your wilderness experience up there if you want to.

...and +1 Ian!!