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ClimbingFanatic
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 4, 2015 - 11:58am PT
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ive gone to the climbing gym a few times and found out that I love it! I would love to keep climbing but the nearest climbing gym is about 35 minutes away, and being 16 with no car or even a drivers license, I would have to put the burden of driving on my parents. The nearest place I could climb outdoors would most likely be Lake Tahoe, which is 2 and a half hours away. I desperately want to get better. Yestersay was my 3rd time bouldering in the course of 3 months and Im still stuck on v2. Any tips on how i can improve at home? And is it possible to even improve at all when climbing once, maybe twice a month?
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snakefoot
climber
Nor Cal
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are you near sac, davis, vaca or whatever? Uber!!!
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Edge
Trad climber
Betwixt and Between Nederland & Boulder, CO
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When I was your age, there were no climbing gyms or Internet. If I wanted to climb, I had to ride my bike to choss or hitch to the good stuff in the summer, and climb frozen waterfalls and mini-mountains in the winter.
Not recommended. It's been almost four decades and I still suck.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Do bodyweight exercises to build appropriate strength, especially suspension exercises. Build strength in the hands and fingers by imrovising on door jams etc. Then get to the climbing gym as often as you think possible to develop technique, which is fundamental.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Build a home climbing wall. You can always find holds on Craigs List.
Prod.
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ClimbingFanatic
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2015 - 01:00pm PT
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Thankyou for all of the great suggestions! Unfortunately, it is highly unlikely my parents would allow me to use Uber and they refuse to build me a home climbing wall (no space is the main reason, and I've never worked with wood my entire life). They probably think that climbing is just a phase for me.
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snakefoot
climber
Nor Cal
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ok, so what town are you near? there may be bouldering sites nearby. what about a friend with a large yard that you could build a wall on? we built a 32' wide, 12' tall half pipe with a foot of vert and a roll in at a friends with cool parents back in the day.
otherwise, looks like you might builder or climb trees for fun til then.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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This sounds like a troll.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Pullups
tricep dips
inverted situps (e.g. from a spiral staircase or a railing where you can latch in your legs and hang below it)
fingertip pullups on a door jam to get started. Buy a hangboard like this
https://www.google.com/search?q=hangboard&tbm=shop
Maybe if you show some commitment with that routine and keep a log of your improvement in repetitions, your parent(s) will see you are serious and might help support you to get to the gym.
Even if not, you are building up that internal fire and it's only a few more years before you can organize your life for yourself to pursue your passions.
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Edge
Trad climber
Betwixt and Between Nederland & Boulder, CO
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Can you at least put up a hang board? You will have to start off SLOW!!!, but at least you can start to build up contact strength and some pull muscles. Don't forget to balance those out with opposing muscle work.
Read books on technique and visualize yourself doing the movements so you can focus on refining movement when you do get to the gym.
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ClimbingFanatic
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2015 - 02:07pm PT
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I actually want to climb. I'm a girl, and I don't see how climbing rocks would make me cool.
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ClimbingFanatic
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2015 - 02:08pm PT
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I saw some hangboards at REI but I assumed they were just for professionals or advanced climbers. I'll look into it more, thanks!
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Edge
Trad climber
Betwixt and Between Nederland & Boulder, CO
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Like I said, you will have to,start off slow and force yourself to not use it too often. It will give you more options than a door jamb, and you can always throw a few pull ups and lock offs on the jugs. Use the big holds for ab work also.
For me, I can't emphasize how important reading was to build a mental repertoire of techniques and keep the stoke alive. That will put you ahead of the game once you get your license and become mobile. If you want it, it will happen.
It also helped me when I was in HS and couldn't drive to join sports teams that let me cross train and increase my overall strength and endurance. I ran cross country, did five field events, and would train each year with the X-C ski team until snow flew and the ice came in. Any organized activity can help in lieu of climbing; you are trying to build a strong foundation.
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HermitMaster
Social climber
my abode
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For me, I can't emphasize how important reading was to build a mental repertoire of techniques and keep the stoke alive. That will put you ahead of the game once you get your license and become mobile. If you want it, it will happen.
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WBraun
climber
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Runaway from home.
Go to the most prolific climbing area you can get to.
When you get there start yodeling.
Bad ass climber will appear and you'll soon learn all the ropes.
There's no other way.
Blathering on the internet will get one nowhere ......
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bixquite
Social climber
humboldt nation
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I agree with Tami, if your in high school and show the interest to start a club, usually a teacher
or parent will see your motivation and be stoked to plan a few trips. If there is a local collage or jc
they may have an outdoor club to meet like minded folks. go play, yo be safe and have fun.
look at mtn project. com and start planning a dream road trip, follow a hippy jam band and
sell grilled cheese to support your resole expenses and watch out for some dude named Denis
who says he's going to red rocks and leads 5.9
have fun
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overwatch
climber
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I agree with Tami and Werner.
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matlinb
Trad climber
Fort Collins, CO
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I started climbing when I was 14 and ended up with a college aged climbing partner that took me under his wing as a belay slave. He had a car, a rope and a rack. I had obsession and a willingness to belay all day. It worked. At 16 he graduated from college and I helped him drive to Yosemite where I spent about 6 weeks in Camp 4. He ended up getting a job at Camp Curry and stayed. My parents had to buy a plane ticket from SFO to get me back home. That was 1982. All things are possible.
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ClimbingFanatic
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2015 - 06:04pm PT
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Joining a club sounds like a good idea.
There used to be a Wilderness Explorers club at my school but not a lot of people joined.
And how did you meet your college climbing partner by the way?
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Tami, do you really think this OP is legit?
I'm thinkin' not. But maybe that's besides the point.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Fair enough, Tami, and understandable.
Good on ya', in any case.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Werner, would she be the stoopid American for following your advice, or would you be the stoopid American for giving the advice when you already know there are so many stoopid Americans who might listen to you? ;)
It's probably not bad advice if climbing was the only life objective. It might have undesirable side-effects like rape, death, or at least limited employability and potential old-age beggary. But everyone here already knows that "yer gunna die" applies to us all.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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On a similar note with Cosmic, climbing holds can be mounted on the side of a van.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Ohhhh Cosmic, your not going to say the "S" word are you??? It's Napoleonic law with you; guilty until proven innocent. ;)
Tami probably thinks I'm a large footed troll, but I've payed attention to her babblings and have learned some good stuff from her. If you are a 16 yo girl I would pay attention to her teachings. Climb smart, not hard is one that you should stamp into your memory.
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snakefoot
climber
Nor Cal
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i think the dilemma here is that we have seen so many trolls, unfortunately , that one cannot assume anything. and even if so, who cares that good advice was/is given...better to take the high road and not be lame to a possible real question and person.
this forum used to be very limited, and i mean back in the early 2000's...now everyone browses and not all participate. And, if cosmic has super sleuth skills at finding the trolls, more power to him for outing. carry on..
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Dear Troll(ette)
If you can't catch a pump anywhere in the world. you don't have the requisite imagination (to be a climber).
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overwatch
climber
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The problem is the trolls are as stupid as they get these days, zero inyertaintment value
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ClimbingFanatic
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2015 - 02:10pm PT
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I just signed up to this site yesterday just to ask this question. I promise im not a troll but you guys can think whatever you want. I just wanted some advice. Peace
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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There's a lot more to being a well rounded climber than just strength. And you can learn a lot through books.
Hangboards or rock rings alone can do a lot to helping climbing specific forearm strength.
There's a lot of reading you can do to learn about the various types of climbing. Read classic stories of climbs, etc.
A few to get you started:
Instructional
Mountaineering freedom of the hills
John Long's anchoring books
Hans Florine's speed climbing book
Self Rescue
History
50 Classic Climbs
The Vertical World of Yosemite: A Collection of Writings and Photographs on Rock Climbing in Yosemite
BTW if you are real 16 year old and not a troll, it's smart to not put your real name and location.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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i think the dilemma here is that we have seen so many trolls,
I think the dilemma is that many feel it as their own butthurt if they respond in a sincere way while someone else does something silly. If folks subordinated their emotions to be functions of their own behavior, rather than giving the world permission to make them feel bad/stupid/taken-advantage-of, then trollery would be seen as a curious and pointless pursuit and people would respond in sincerity and not feel stupid for doing so.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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There is a lot of real advice here.
At your age, living at home with your parents, going to high school, the barriers you have to climbing are similar to the barriers you would have to a lot of sports and activities if they were not offered at your school. Just substitute "glassblowing" for "climbing" in your story, and see what I mean. What parents mean when they say something is "a phase" is often true. You need a long term commitment to get good at anything. Demonstrate the commitment by making a logical action plan that will enable you to climb.
The generic solution is the same:
You are 16. Sign up for drivers ed and get your license.
Get an after school job. Save some money. Use it to buy a car, take the bus, use for gas money, build a climbing wall, whatever, to get yourself where you want to be.
I find it hard to believe that none of your high school friends has a license, and that none of them would be interested in going to the climbing gym once a week.
Find yourself a partner, another novice at your school or a school near you, who has similar goals. That way you will be able to pool your resources.
It's unlikely that the closest climbing to you is Tahoe. Go to Mountain Project and scour the routes database for rock near you. There is likely to be something closer than Tahoe. If not roped climbing then bouldering. Bouldering gets you super strong.
Look in your town for buildering opportunities. Vertical traversing on crimps will build huge endurance. Builder only on solid stone walls, not on stone facing!!!
If your upper body is weak, and mine certainly was when I was a 16 year old girl, engage in a general strengthening program at your high school, local community college, or local weight gym.
I'll repeat what was said above - read everything about climbing technique you can get your hands on.
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snakefoot
climber
Nor Cal
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^^^ agreed NUT. Overall, i find nearly every response funny, though i do not get on the band wagon or whine about it. this site cracks me up every day.
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overwatch
climber
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As usual from The Nut...as they like to say around here..."spot on"
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ClimbingFanatic
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2015 - 04:18pm PT
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Thankyou to those who gave actual advice. Come to think of it, i do have one friend that was interested in climbing. Convincing my mom to let them drive me is going to be a challenge lol
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ClimbingFanatic
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2015 - 04:31pm PT
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theres always something with you lol
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Good for you for being willing to ask advice to learn how to climb--You are already learning an important lesson regarding the climbing world--as a general rule most climbers have low social skills. There is a reason that they are mostly single guys.
You seem to be able to roll with the stupidness of most of the comments so you should do fine.
If you're two hours from L. Tahoe there has to be climbing clubs around--check out your local Sierra Club or your REI--they will be able to direct you.
Notice on this thread that there are a lot of obituary announcements--No joke- climbing is dangerous. You should develop a good healthy skepticism from anything anyone tells you until they earn your trust. And then still be ready to bail. Leave your ego way way behind.
Go to your library and read about climbing safety. Take a class on safety.
If you can find some people who are competent and safe try to hang with them and learn everything--You goal is to be writing advice to some 16 year old kid 40 years from now.
Be boring- get old
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Stevee B
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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The talk of building a home climbing wall reminded me of the traverse wall someone made just outside of Healy, AK on a freeway underpass wall. Just bondo epoxied a ton of cobbles to the concrete, presto, climbing wall.
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couchmaster
climber
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What city do you live in and how old are you? Folks might be able to give specific advice to your location although I bet most of us don't live in "non-climbing" cities.
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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You might consider joining the girl's gymnastic team at your school. That's how Lynn Hill got her start.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Aspiring climber stuck . ledged out - - been theredone that
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Oh, give the girl a chance!
HFCS gets away with it all the time . . .
;>)
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ClimbingFanatic
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2015 - 02:26pm PT
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And if im actually 16? Even if i was a troll, what benefit would i get from all of this? I really dont get it and its frusterating that no one seems to believe me.
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ClimbingFanatic
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2015 - 02:39pm PT
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Exactly. Theres no reason. -.-
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snakefoot
climber
Nor Cal
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you have now entered the BURCH zone
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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ClimbingFanatic, where do you live near? That would help if you're looking for partners to climb with and help you out.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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I'd go with T4 on this one Sewelly. Underage girl in a perverse climbing site?
T4.
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ClimbingFanatic
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2015 - 09:32pm PT
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Fine, ill prove it to you guys. How can i do that by the way without revealing my identity?
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overwatch
climber
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Burch your last post made me hungry
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Ken M
Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
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You've been asked multiple times where you live (town, not address).
One of the hallmarks of a troll is that they answer questions selectively. That's what you've done.
People on this board know people all over the State, and most climbing opportunities that exist in Ca/Nv.
If you don't want to cooperate in people helping you, then be thought of as a troll.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Burchey on defcon delta troll partol.
Too much.
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ClimbingFanatic
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2015 - 10:00pm PT
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Fine, i live in Stockton, California.
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ClimbingFanatic
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2015 - 10:03pm PT
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Any other questions?
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ClimbingFanatic
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2015 - 10:09pm PT
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I don't have a van. My mom has a white one though and my stepdad has a used gray jeep he traded his venza with because he wanted a mountain car.
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overwatch
climber
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what gang are you in and what is your "street name"?
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ClimbingFanatic
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2015 - 10:12pm PT
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-.- im so done.
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ClimbingFanatic
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2015 - 10:13pm PT
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7LTPosy.
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ClimbingFanatic
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2015 - 10:17pm PT
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I know :( Its bad here unless you live in Brookside
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ClimbingFanatic
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2015 - 10:17pm PT
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Burch its an expression.
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ClimbingFanatic
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2015 - 10:18pm PT
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And no my mom doesnt scuba dive. She hates being outdoors.
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ClimbingFanatic
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2015 - 10:19pm PT
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Burch are you just doing this for fun or something? I'm genuinely curious.
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ClimbingFanatic
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2015 - 10:24pm PT
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Its funny how youve been calling me a troll this whole time while you're a real big troll yourself. I'm gonna stop replying now because this is such a waste of my time. Have a nice life.
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ClimbingFanatic
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2015 - 10:25pm PT
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Okay, one more lol A nurse.
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RyanD
climber
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"the Burch zone"
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Ken M
Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
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So lets take this somewhat seriously, for a moment.
Granted, that the best thing to do is climb.
But one can't always. How to do things that will make one a better climber when access improves?
Generally, things that promote balance and strength.
BALLET! Classes, not watching.
all types of gymnastics.
Slack-lining! Simple kit under $50!
A daily, rotating, upper body strength program. You can't do 20 pull-ups, you aren't there.
Yoga!
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Ken, what you write is a common belief, and I'm not a good enough climber to comment from my own experience.
Am pasting below a quote from Eric Hörst and his book "How to Climb 5.12":
Absolute 1: The best training for climbing skill (technique and tactics) is climbing.
This first absolute might seem obvious, but it surprises me how many people act in a manner contrary to this principle. The concept of cross-training does not apply to sport skills as complex as climbing. Time spent doing any other sport with the thought that it “might help my climbing” is time wasted. There are simply no other sports with technical and tactical requirements anywhere similar to climbing.
Although there may be some minor transfer of the fitness conditioning gained by doing other sports, there will be no gain in skill. Even activities that seem to have something in common with climbing (like the balance required for gymnastics or walking a slack line) transfer no skill to the vertical plane.
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WBraun
climber
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Build crack machine.
You will then become crack master ....
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Ken M
Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
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You must not have read this thread, nor what I wrote. I specifically wrote that climbing was the best thing to do.
But the OP cites reasons why she cannot. So we can go back and forth why there is a huge crag in Stockton that no one knows about, walking distance to her home.....or we can answer her question.
On top of that, I don't agree with the citation that you quote. I think that there is a LOT of crossover from other activities.
it helps to have great balance
it helps to have great upper body strength
it helps to have flexibility
it helps to have a low Body Mass Index
it helps to have a mind centered around endurance and pain tolerance
it helps to tolerate exposure
While it is possibly true that gaining all this on rock is best, I suggest that in terms of a learning curve, an advanced skilled athlete is at a huge advantage.
So if you are advocating that this OP, unable to access rock or a gym, just do nothing, I totally disagree.
(or are you advocating that all those climbers who spend a lot of time in Camp 4 working on strength exercises, were just wasting their time?)
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