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mattyc
climber
boulder
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 25, 2015 - 01:43pm PT
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Hey, this is Matt from Sender Films -- I wanted to hear people's thoughts about REEL ROCK 10. Have people seen it? Liked it? Thoughts? We always love hearing from the community about our films and we've got big shows coming up next week in LA, SF and beyond.
In case you haven't checked it out, here's the trailer.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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skitch
Gym climber
Bend Or
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Sep 25, 2015 - 01:54pm PT
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I'll watch it, but I wont be happy about it!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Sep 25, 2015 - 02:50pm PT
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It is in the SF/Bay Area next week? Should check when/where...I will likely like it. Aside from last year's, most are awesome.
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spectreman
Trad climber
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Sep 25, 2015 - 04:29pm PT
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I saw it in Boulder last week and I absolutely loved it!
I, honestly, was not looking forward to the high ball bouldering story or the Horshoe Hell video, but they ended up being awesome! Great story telling and great characters.
My only critique was that I wished the Dean Potter tribute was longer and had more of a chronological story to tell of his amazing life.
Thank you for a great night. Well worth my $20.
I would Highly recommend the film to anyone, climber or non-climber.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Sep 25, 2015 - 04:38pm PT
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I'll be seeing it with my wife and a couple friends on the 15th in Santa Cruz. Glad to hear the Horseshoe Hell film is good. It was the only one I wasn't excited about. Now I'm looking forward to all of them!
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Sep 25, 2015 - 07:08pm PT
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Going reluctantly this year. I get that you guys make more money from leasing to Outside/NYT/Discovery than you do from the climbing community, but the dumbing down is getting egregious. I only got through half of Valley Uprising last year before turning it off.
What could have been a great history of Valley climbing, looked like a clip show of the last 20 yrs of climbing mag with a hefty dose of climbing terminology 101.
Like I said, I'll go this year to see the initial cut of the dawn wall footage(mainly to avoid a 20 min explanation of what "with only their hands and feet" means in the final cut), but if this continues the trend of edits aimed at the general public instead of the climbing community, I'm out.
TL;DR
I miss the Dosage model, light on the editing and narration, heavy on the climbing. If the aim continues to be general public viewership, I'll probably stop watching and buying. Luckily guys like Robinson, Woods, Graham, and Webb are increasingly producing their own material, with the added bonus of not having to wait a year for an artificial deadline to see it.
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flipchick253
Sport climber
Lawrence, KS
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Sep 28, 2015 - 10:29am PT
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"REEL ROCK 10 features athletes Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson, Alex Honnold, Jimmy Webb, Daniel Woods and a special tribute to the late Dean Potter."
Where's the female representation this year? I'll still watch (if we get it to come to Kansas City) but I'm definitely irked there are no "featured" female athletes.
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ARott
Trad climber
Little Rock, Arkansas
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Sep 28, 2015 - 11:49am PT
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I saw it last week at Horseshoe Hell. Pretty sweet film.
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mattyc
climber
boulder
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2015 - 11:58am PT
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Glad the folks who checked out the films enjoyed them. Hope others go to a show -- we think its one of our best lineups yet, and definitely fun to see in a theater.
"Where's the female representation this year?"
We have films with rad women in production but current events had us shift things around -- next year will have some great films with women in the lead.
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overwatch
climber
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Sep 28, 2015 - 12:08pm PT
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how long is the run time for $20? I haven't been to a movie in years so I don't know what they charge for that rip off sh#t now. I would definitely rather spend my money watching climbing although most movie experiences are usually ruined by the other movie goers.
what about addressing trashman's comments?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Sep 28, 2015 - 12:18pm PT
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Friend was able to upload the movie from some pirate site and we watched it. Liked it a lot, even without it being HD quality. Good combination of climbing and humor!
The movie had some incredible climbing in it, doesn't matter if main characters are all males. If a female party did the dawn wall free or something like the Fitz Roy traverse, I am sure there would be something about it. I think it is actually sexist to include movies about female teams out of necessity. I'd rather watch one about a group of regular guys adventure climbing in Alaska or wherever rather than seeing a movie about the first female ascent of some route, or something that wouldn't even be noticed if done by a group of guys. Thought the movie about Ashima was awesome because it didn't even matter if she was a female. She was doing awesome climbs for her age and having own battles that captivated the audience. Make movies about PEOPLE not sexes, races or religions. Climbing is for all. If there is a story to tell, it shouldn't matter who is the protagonist.
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BryanE
climber
Minnesota
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Sep 28, 2015 - 12:23pm PT
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I saw it on Saturday and I thought it was rad. The fitz Roy traverse was so epic. All of the films ended up being good. I wasn't too excited about the horseshoe hell one either but I liked it. The high ball one was good too I liked the focus on the mental aspect of that. Daniel seemed really personable and relatable. Dawn wall segment was good just wish it was 10 times as long as it was (I know it was a teaser). I thought the traverse was the best of all though I want to watch it again and I'm sure I will.
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couchmaster
climber
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Sep 28, 2015 - 12:34pm PT
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Was going to catch the free showing in Yosemite last week, but the wife pointed out that after a day of climbing I'd be asleep by 7pm, so I shouldn't go into a theater and snore like hell in public. I listened to her advice, and was indeed fast asleep by 7pm.
You're welcome.
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overwatch
climber
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Sep 28, 2015 - 01:47pm PT
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Susceptible to suggestion?
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Sep 28, 2015 - 02:30pm PT
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What Trashman said above. Spot on
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mattyc
climber
boulder
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2015 - 03:29pm PT
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Responding to Trashman:
REEL ROCK has always been designed to tell bigger stories from the climbing world and infuse them with context, back-story and motivation to create a more cinematic movie-going experience on the big screen, getting audiences invested collectively in the films. We of course love the Dosage model, as we (Big UP) built it, but that was designed for core climbers to consume high end content individually on the web. The climbers/producers you reference that are keeping that model alive are doing an amazing job of delivering the goods quickly to people who want it. We love that content too. Its just different from what we are doing in REEL ROCK.
In terms of talking down to audiences, I don't think we do it much, if at all, and its certainly not our intention. We are climbers, we make the films for climbers, but we want to tell the stories in a non-insidery way. We're not talking cheese-ball TV here, rather giving the key nuggets of info to get everyone on the same page at a base level. If you live in Bishop you probably don't need to hear about the egg-shaped boulders or the history of highballing there. But if you boulder in the southeast, or in Austria, that context on Bishop might help. We try to do it in a way that makes the stories bigger, not alienating to the true insiders.
In terms of the money: we sold the REEL ROCK TV Series to Red Bull Media House this year. We retain 100% creative control of the series. We think its alot smarter, cooler and more core than almost anything out there on TV.
On Valley Uprising, its difficult to take your critique too seriously since you shut it off halfway through. But I will say the film is a f*#k of alot more than 20 years of climbing mag clips pasted together. We spent 7 years making it, you should spend 90 minutes watching it, then review it -- Its worth the time!
Lastly, Trashman, despite your reservations, we do appreciate your going to see the films this year, and we look forward to hearing your review after you've checked them out.
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ppierpont
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 28, 2015 - 05:13pm PT
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Sunrise Mountain Sports is hosting RR10 in Livermore at the Vine Cinema & Alehouse. It's a drive for many in the Bay Area, but at least you can have a beer and some food with the show. Tickets are $15 through the end of the month on the Sunrise website.
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Epic-Magnet
Big Wall climber
Lodi, CA
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Sep 29, 2015 - 05:42pm PT
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Mattyc...I want you to know your videos are my highlight of the year. Always well done! If you said the sky was blue, you'd get critics on here saying it wasn't in the last part of the evenings. I can't wait to see this film. Keep them coming!
My 2 cents: Have you thought about doing a segment on real highlining. People are pushing into the mid-1000 foot long range and it's a mind blow. The short stuff is quickly learned by this new generation but it's a unique level that can walk 1000+ foot lines. I know your target market is climbing but it is very closely related.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Sep 29, 2015 - 09:00pm PT
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A Line Across the Sky is up there with the best climbing film making I've yet seen. Bravo, gents.
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DAN DUANE
climber
SAN FRANCISCO, CA
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Saw it last night at the Castro. Awfully good, in my opinion. The Dean tribute is pretty moving, and the Caldwell/Honnold Patagonia traverse segment is astonishing, and comic gold. That may be hard to believe--comedy is not what climbing films are typically about--but Alex and Tommy brought a camera and somehow managed to capture their exhausted partner-to-partner banter in a way that is truly hilarious. This is one of the great partnerships in the history of our sport, on the climbing merits alone. But it turns out they've got this accidental comic repartee that, well ... to hear Alex say to Tommy, as Tommy leads out on one of the countless mind-boggling leads, "Dude, your ice axe is strapped to the back of your pack right now, and it's kind of silhouetted against the sky, and it totally looks like something out of Alpinist Magazine" is ... I don't know. Priceless, somehow. Nicely understated, too--these guys are simul-climbing 5.12 big wall routes with packs on, (on day three or four--I can't remember--Alex is leading 5.11 crack terrain in battered approach shoes and thick gloves while wearing a pack, and doing it FAST) and yet their conversation remains purely humble, friendly, silly, self-deprecating. Quite an experience, just bearing witness.
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab or In What Time Zone Am I?
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Couldn't get in the Yosemite Facelift showing. Will hit it up in Moab in a few weeks.
Susan
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overwatch
climber
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Referring to a manly post that was deleted in typical ST fashion...what's wrong no strength of conviction?
vvvvvvvvvv
I never got the idea you didn't like their work. You asked a legitimate question and voiced an opinion.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Referring to a manly post that was deleted in typical ST fashion...what's wrong no strength of conviction?
My guess is Patty boy realized the stupidity of his timeline("…hates all movies after 1986" in reference to comments about Dosage(2002-2008 ) and independent films produced this year).
i generally like the products this group puts out, that's why I referenced the style of theirs I enjoy, as well as the trends I like less. Really looking forward to A Line Across the Sky, partially bc the topic seems less likely to be interesting to non-climbers.
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Christine Davies
Trad climber
Tacoma
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I saw it last week in Yosemite and really enjoyed it. I loved the footage from the Fitz Traverse. I was leary about the highball segment, but was gratified that you didn't do what a lot of TV shows do and show all the gratuitous gore of people falling and getting hurt. I was more impressed with that segment than I thought I would be, although there were some rough moments for my gentle soul. I'm looking forward to next year's show with some of our fantastic female climbers.
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Fish Finder
climber
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saw this at Facelift
it Really Rocks x10
Go see it when its in your town
You wont be sorry
The tribute to Dean was well done and I believe you could do a full feature film on his life
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mattyc
climber
boulder
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2015 - 02:21pm PT
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We're glad to hear people are checking it out and enjoying some of the films.
Trashman, we're still looking forward to hearing your review.
Thanks!
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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hey Reel Rock!! - come to San Luis Obispo!!
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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I took advantage of being in New York and caught a train into the City to see Reel Rock 10. I don't think that Reel Rock has been in NE Ohio for a few years. I liked all of the films. Dean's tribute was nicely done.
The Patagonia traverse was very well done--Alex has self-deprecation down pat. (His silent near fall walking on flat snow during the credits was classic.) I don't know who was designing the shots but they were great: Becca and the Fitz in bed, with Tommy's rumpled side open; a nice family shot, panning to include Alex reading a magazine in his single bed two feet away--the climbing life in transition. Tommy's efforts to articulate his struggles to balance his commitment to climbing and his family was refreshing. (in 1982, I canceled a trip to climb a new route on the Moose's Tooth six weeks after my daughter was born and never looked back.)
My father's family is from Arkansas but I will never climb there; someone may film it and it would be used in a Reel Rock exposé. "Honnold fell," echoing through the valley, Recola style.
The highballing film was interesting once it got to Daniel Woods' pulling all the pieces together to complete "The Process." That said, but I don't understand why you didn't have John Gill talk about his climbs in the first person. Maybe John refused.
Now I'll have to time my trips to NY based on Reel Rock's schedule.
Oh, I also met Cedar Wright. Keeping up with my future history is hard, so it was a nice opportunity to met Cedar. As he pointed out he was born about the same time I was winding down. He gently challenged me about why I no longer climb.
Good question. Maybe it is time to look back. Kids are grown.
Good films.
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brian benedon
Trad climber
tucson
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when does the video go on sale?
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Oct 16, 2015 - 12:31pm PT
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Saw it last night in Santa Cruz as only the second grown-up night my wife and I have had together in the last 9 months. Really impressed-not a flop in the bunch.
Caldwell & Honnold in Patagonia was the unanimous best of the bunch with the group we went with. Loved the banter between them; I've had some of those same conversations with my partner (Hmm, it's not my lead? "It's not that bad. You got it!"). My wife was a little stressed by Tommy's observations that having a wife and baby means he need to tone it down, but then going all-out anyways.
My disinterest in the Horseshoe Hell segment was curtailed by conversations here, and they proved accurate. It was really fun, and we like the light-hearted way Honnold was presented as the "villian" (The hummingbird Alex? Really? :p )
Additionally the Dean Potter tribute was well done and not heavy handed, the highball bouldering made my palms sweat and provided some surprisingly raw humanity to Daniel Woods, and the teaser for the Dawn Wall got me revved up to see the full version.
tl;dr Great job guys!
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab or In What Time Zone Am I?
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Oct 18, 2015 - 09:13am PT
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Saw it last night in Moab. I'd concur with much of what the previous poster said.
The Fitzroy traverse was amazing. Great chemistry between the two. I was very touched about the insights of Tommy's parenting and engagement in high risk activities. Using sunglasses as an eating utensil...great one. I loved Alex's descent into Alpinism.
Although not being a boulderer I could appreciate the intensity, but that highball stuff. Pretty much in the realm of free solo stuff except probably living to tell about it with shattered body parts. Every land just reverberated through my body.
Going from tears watching the Dean Potter memorial to crazy raucous hilarity on the Horseshoe Hell was quite a ride. It's interesting trying to bridge the gap between the traditional (read old timers) dirtbag fun and the new "Burning Man" dirtbag fun. I haven't caught up yet to the hilarioty aspect of new age dirt bag climbing. But the Mason-Alex "rivalry" was a hoot. As for the Dean Potter tribute I do wish they would have mentioned that he did not die alone. It could have been mentioned in the text credit when it said he died in Yosemite that Graham was with him.
Sometimes I wasn't sure when we were into Reel Rock or watching ads! They've gotten that good!
On a side note, at the Moab showing they had a raffle for everything from Wag bags to calendars....and guess what I finally won something! (Well so did about 40% of the audience...there was that much stuff). I got an awesome 2013 National Public Lands Day t-shirt!
Susan
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