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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 8, 2015 - 11:14am PT
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I have always loved those "Where are they now?" type shows.
Here, my purpose is to fill in a few blanks about a crowd of great, yet unknown crew of dedicated rock climbers from Oregon BITD.
Please feel free to add information about an individual, add characters I've missed and generally correct me wherever you feel like it!
Me? I started out at Smith Rocks in 75, but was a bit slow in getting up to speed. I'm still kicking and still capable of a few hard leads here and there. I've got 30+ trip reports here, just since 2008 to prove it.
*Jeff Thomas, still kicking, but still climbing?
*Bob Mcgown, Astrophysicist, still kicking, climbing status unknown.
*Bill Ramsey, still climbing I think?
*Mike Smeltzer, ???
*John Rich, still kicking, still climbing!
*Jim Davis, still kicking and climbing! Desert explorer and photographer extraordinaire.
*Pat Carr, still kicking, still climbing!
*Rob Lesher, still kicking, hiding in Hawaii.
*Mel Johnston, still kicking, fishing and building.
*Keith Royster, still kicking, still climbing, Chinese medicine Doc.
*Jay Kerr, still kicking, sailing captain, hiking Sierra.
*Alan Watts, still kicking and nursing his knuckles?
*Chris Jones, ???
*Scott Davis, playing mean guitar and building huge things.
*Mark Wodtli, whereabouts unknown....
*Jim Anglin, deceased.
*Avery Tichner, deceased.
*Ron Hauk, ???
*Mike Ludeman, running a nursery in Tumalo.
*Scott Kimmet, building sailboats in Maine?
Fill me in!!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Chris Jones and Scott Davis? Brits and Seattleites count?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2015 - 11:48am PT
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Wrong people Reilly. Wanna look up how many Chris Jones there are in the USA?
Guys from that neighborhood and era will know exactly who I mean. Chris Jones was ahead of his time in bouldering in Central Oregon.
Scott Davis was the Warren Harding aid man of our crew. Hard nailing, hard headed, individualist.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Ha! I suspected some such subterfuge from you! ;-)
Hard nailing, hard headed, individualist.
That well describes Seattle's Scott Davis, aka What Heart?
(jess kidding, he has a really big heart - read his books on Syria)
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2015 - 12:12pm PT
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*Chris Grover?? Another hard bouldering man.
*Jeff McMillan, aka Worm, I took him up the Column.
*Doug Brown, pussed out early in the game, C'mon Doug, talk back!!
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clarkolator
climber
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Really sorry to hear about Avery. Maybe we can have another B, B, and B party at the Sisters Bouldering area some day, remember those who are gone, and regale the leftovers? There's lots to talk about, I'd drive up there in a heartbeat.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2015 - 09:40pm PT
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I'll get together with you anyway Clarkolator! When you say head up,...from where?
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jeff Thomas, alive and well, kicking ass and taking names. Still climbing, still putting up rad routes.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Studly,
Are you willing to tell us where that^ is? It looks familiar, but ... ... ... . Just a hint?
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Dean Caldwell - still kicking, no longer climbing, but you can find him down at Saturday Market on weekends.
Brooke Sandahl - way still kicking [ass].
Vern Stiefel - deceased, a totally amazing climber.
Mark Cartier - deceased, total bummer as was the loss of Vern and Jim Anglin.
Darryl Nakahira - still an attorney in Bend, not sure of climbing status.
Kim Schmitz - definitely still kicking.
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Joseph Healy - still kickin
What about Opdycke?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2015 - 07:49am PT
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Yes, thanks Joe! I just had a nice chat with Kim a couple weeks ago.
Yeah, what about Opdycke? Great guy.
And Jim Olson? He was guiding in the Tetons last I heard?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Wasn't Alan Lester originally an Oregon climber?
Bill Ramsey and the bigger boys used to give Little-Mo-Lester MUCH grief BITD. Ha ha.
Couple years back there was a terrific video of Bill Ramsey climbing a 5.14 for his 50th birthday IIRC.
Darryl Nakahira: technically and expatriate Californian right?
I think he came up with the Orange County crew.
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the goat
climber
north central WA
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How about Neil Olsen?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2015 - 08:53am PT
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Yes Tar, Alan Lester was from "The hood." Lots of names slipped my feeble mind I guess. That's why I need help!!
I had heard about Cartier. Major bummer. We have sure lost some good ones!!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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I climbed with Jeff Thomas in the Gunks and met Bob McGown at Smith and maybe when he came to Vancouver for a climbing comp, though that might have been a different Portland climber.
Thanks for the news. I am often wondering, "Where are they now?" not limited to climbers or even to people I met.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Somebody should do a climber's version of baseball cards.
I'm just too busy right now.
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fgw
climber
portland, or
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* Dave Jensen - (FAs in Wallowas, Turkey Monster, others). Here.
* Don Baars (FA Steins Pillar, 2nd ascent St. Peters D.) - passed away about 7 years ago. Edit in: was a geologist.
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clarkolator
climber
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That would be Davis, CA Survival. Across the western swamp from Sacramento. I still get up to OR from time to time, will ping you next time I'm sniffing the sagebrush. Maybe we can convene some people!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2015 - 03:08pm PT
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Thanks fgw!!
I had some communication with Dave Jensen about a photo.
That original line up Steins is so cool. Loved it!
Clarkolator, the reason I asked is that I'm in Newcastle / Auburn!! We can hook up for a hike sometime!
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fgw
climber
portland, or
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Survival, Jeff T's article in Mazama annual (2008?) on the history of St. Peters Dome climbing would be another good source for Oregon old school pioneers. Also, how about Tom Bauman.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Was there / is there a Portland climber last name Sowerby?
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Grinching
Trad climber
State of Confusion
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How about the legendary Wayne Arrington? (That guy has to have some epic stories!)
Nathan Charleton? Last I saw of him was as an engineer for KPFF in Portland.
Monty Mako? I think it was through Nathan that we teamed up with him, and Mark Cartier one day to climb in the gorge at Smith Rocks.
And what is the latest about Alan Watts; JoAnne?
Big John Adams?
I haven't seen Ron Houck since he got married and headed to Mexico.
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Rock Eagle
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Mike Smelser - still alive and kicking. He's mostly into trail running and endurance races these days. He's also my husband of 32 years :-)
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2015 - 07:38am PT
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Grinching, thanks for posting up!! Grinching is the hard headed nailer I spoke of previously. Hey, I took some of those pix!! Woot!!
Rock Eagle!! So awesome to hear that Mike is doing well, and still doing difficult things. You've put up with him all these years? You must be a blessed Saint. Tell Mike I was in Yosemite when he led "The Void". He was a face climbing god in those days, and doing us Oregonians proud.
Now I will dip into the deep waters. Anybody ever heard of John Barton? He was a high school teacher of mine.......
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Sep 10, 2015 - 08:03am PT
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What high school did you go to? I graduated from Adams in '73. There were a group of climbers there and one teacher who taught us a bit. Mostly don't remember names. Teacher may have been Nash??? Then there was Smitty... Roger Smith I believe. Fell off tbe north side of rooster rock and landed in shallow water and mud. Lived through it but barely.
Neil Olson and Wayne Hack come to mind... famous from early El Cap rescue.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Sep 10, 2015 - 08:10am PT
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As an outsider, I'd love to hear more about everyone on this growing list. I hope people offer lots of stories about those who are still here and those who have already passed. Great thread Survival!
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Joron
Trad climber
Hoodland, Oregon
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Sep 12, 2015 - 08:35am PT
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Great thread as always, Survival!
Oregon old timer? Maybe, I can add something. My first trip to Smith was Thanksgiving weekend 1970 with the PSU Outdoor Program. In those days there was no bridge or hordes of tourists and we camped at the Old Climbers Camp under the big pine tree near Monument. My first climb that weekend was Juniper Spire in my new Galibier Super Guides! And, what partying – drunken night climbs up the backside of Monument, walking deep into the dry canal tunnel and off to the Red Barn in Redmond for beer swilling. I’m still climbing, but have sworn off high altitude stuff.
Some of the folks I remember:
Dan Gates – still in PDX - retired from climbing.
Steve Strauch – still in PDX. Showed up one time at Smith in a full Kendo outfit.
Dan and Steve put up several classic routes at Smith. As Watts puts it “Their hardest routes didn’t raise the standards , but they were the first to commit themselves to free ascents. – deserve partial credit for starting the movement” Steve was also one of the earliest Oregon climbers to start leaving pitons behind after a trip to Wales in the sixties.
Wayne Haack – retired from climbing, lives in Scappoose? Neal’s partner on the 72 El Cap rescue. Wayne was seriously into Klepper, kayaking, exploring Greenland and Inside Passage. I ran into Wayne at a party a few years ago – hadn’t seen him for over thirty years.
Neal Olson – still climbing after recovering from a brain aneurysm about 8 years ago. We still hang out for happy hour and get out climbing some. Broke his leg on El Cap in 72 and rescued by Bridwell, Werner, et al.
Brian Holcomb – ? haven’t seen Brian since 1984 in Yosemite
Janice White – first topless ascent of Monkey Face with Brian Holcomb 1971? (deceased)
Tim Carpenter – Tim and John Tyreman (deceased) established one of the first rap bolted routes at Smith - “Revelations”. Still in PDX, not sure if he still climbs?
Mike Lake – climbing and bicycling around the world
Jon Sprecher - still in Bend and climbing?
Jim Davis – still in Bend?
Mike Pujanas - ?
Gary Rolle – the man behind Portland Rock Gym
Chet Sutterlin - ?
Bob Marshall – not climbing, living in Juneau
C’mon Oregon climbers, post up more vintage photos! Here's one from 1972.
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christoph benells
Trad climber
Tahoma, Ca
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Sep 12, 2015 - 08:44am PT
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I climbed with a jim olsen at broughton bluff about year ago, this may be the Jim you speak of...he talked of much BITD
we climbed hanging gardens into sesame street, he led sesame street! pretty strenuous climb for a dude that old.
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Joron
Trad climber
Hoodland, Oregon
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Sep 12, 2015 - 09:17am PT
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More photos from the 70's:
Cinnamon Slab. We all called it Rat Dung Ramp back then and thought Wayne Haack had done the first ascent. Acltually, Bob Bauman free soloed it in the sixties. It was one of the few free climbs in the Dihedrals then.
At the time the pin list for West Face included a couple of RURPS. I still have the hand drawn topo Wayne Haack shared with me.
Monkey Face, West Face Variation 1973
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Sep 12, 2015 - 09:04pm PT
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I remember Janice White well.... As a young recent high school graduate on one of my first outdoor program trips she was doing one of her topless climbing things. :) I'm still smiling. Sad to hear she passed on.
If I'm not mistaken that black and white of Ratdung Ramp was one of my photos. :)
When I moved away from Portland I -sadly -threw out all my photos. I had quite a few nice ones of Smith as I recall. Glad someone keeps stuff. :)
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2015 - 08:33am PT
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Great stuff you guys!!
Rockermike, I went to Bend High, and then graduated from Mountainview in Bend the first year it was open.
The John Barton I spoke of earlier was a teacher at Bend High. He did some pretty early things in the Cascades and was also on a couple of the first ascents at Wolf Rock, before Barad Dur went up.
Joron, I think I met Steve Strauch, but didn't know him. I certainly know the name, now that someone else has jarred the old memory box!!
Keith Royster at Smith, in the not so old days....
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Joron
Trad climber
Hoodland, Oregon
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Sep 13, 2015 - 12:26pm PT
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That could be your photo, Mike, but not sure I knew you when we were still climbing in Robbins boots? I still have several of your B&W photos including ones from Mt. Stuart. Janice was lost in a sailing accident sometime in the late 70's. In 72 we had a run in with the local sheriff at Index when Janice and my girlfriend decided to go skinny dipping!
Steve Strauch is quite the character. One story goes that he fell off the top of Juniper Spire way back when, but was able to grab the rappel lines in the nick of time. In 93 we did a bivy at 16,000' on Pisang Peak on the Annapurna Circuit when he got into an argument with Neal Olson. Steve was pissed and he asked Neal if he wanted to step outside!
PSU Outdoor Program Alumni 1992.
Beacon Rock, SE corner 1971
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Rock Eagle
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Sep 13, 2015 - 09:01pm PT
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Survival - Yes, Mike's always been a good face climber. He still has those nerves of steel for runout faces. He is still trying to figure out why he went to the Cookie (and the Void) to face climb!
Here is Mike's favorite picture of Ken Stroud (who died on ice climbing on Forsythe Glacier on Mt. St. Helens fall 1976) taken at the base of Sunnyside Bench. Mike and Ken climbed RNWF Half Dome that August.
Mike says this was a common pose for both of them in those days. Guidebooks in hand with a puzzled look on their faces.
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the goat
climber
north central WA
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Sep 13, 2015 - 09:39pm PT
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Thanks for the update Joron. Wayne Hack and Neal Olson shared our (Washington) site in C4 during the early 70's. I still remember Neal saying "there's no decent rock in Oregon," but it was pretty clear why they came to YNP and not Smith. A few years later sport climbing changed that.
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Joron
Trad climber
Hoodland, Oregon
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Sep 13, 2015 - 10:07pm PT
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Goat, in the early days I think many felt Smith was not that great. OK as a local hangout that was pretty close to Portland, but ultimately it was just a training ground for the real climbing - Yosemite.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sep 14, 2015 - 06:47am PT
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Bob Ashworth cut his teeth at Smith Rocks.
Say, any of you PNW crew remember a guy from the 70s named Tor Archer?
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Joron
Trad climber
Hoodland, Oregon
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Sep 14, 2015 - 02:11pm PT
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On my first Smith trip, Thanksgiving weekend 1970, Neal Olson took two rookie coeds up the Pioneer Route. I took some shots with my Super 8 movie camera and put together this short clip. The film quality is poor and shaky, but for what it's worth here is a vintage video.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Tarbuster, I didn't know Tor
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Sep 15, 2015 - 11:08pm PT
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Was there / is there a Portland climber last name Sowerby?
David, yes, our local import - solid as all get out. Not sure of his status as he did something to his shoulder (I think) a year or two back. I'd be amazed if he isn't still climbing hard, but just haven't run into him lately.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2015 - 06:29am PT
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I love seeing the posts on here. Makes my heart warm!!
Steve Venini, from Portland, is a sailing Captain in Florida, and a professional musician. Can't decide which one he's actually more professional at.....
Survival, Keith Royster, and Jay Kerr Dragontail Peak, 1982.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Sep 16, 2015 - 07:49am PT
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Thanks, healyje. David Sowerby came for a climbing competition in Vancouver in the '90s and chose a piece of classical music for his go on the finals route, a memorable contrast to the music chosen by the mostly younger other competitors.
This thread goes far and deep into the climbing past in Oregon. Many truly BITD photos.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2015 - 09:27am PT
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Woot!
Mark Wodtli, Scott Davis, Survival, Beacon Rock, 1978
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Peter Green
Mountain climber
Davis, CA
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Sep 16, 2015 - 01:04pm PT
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As an Oregon newbie, just back from my first outing, the North Ridge of Mt. Washington, I'm looking for recommendations of other routes (without fewer placements, please) on that peak, 3FingeredJack, or others. Also seeking partners for ski mountaineering on the Sisters; seems wise to not solo near crevasses!
Thanks, -Peter
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2015 - 07:42pm PT
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The West Ridge of Mt Washington was my favorite, but seems like it had 5.8 first pitch? It also has some pretty serious exposure as I recall. It was a long time ago. Maybe not the best n00b route? The leader needs experience, and the follower needs heads up too. That's my recollection. But absolutely loved that route!!
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Joron
Trad climber
Hoodland, Oregon
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Sep 17, 2015 - 01:15pm PT
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I think it was 1974 when the Canal Road at Smith was closed, cutting off access to the park and the Old Climbers Camp. Access to climbing involved crossing the river in an inflatable raft ferry system downstream from where the bridge is now. Climbers started camping in spots between Rope de Dope rock and the current bridge location. In 1975 camping was banned in the park, but climbers mostly ignored the ban. One Saturday evening the State Police showed up and told us we were camped illegally. They said we could stay the night, but our cars were going to be towed. I asked one of the troopers if we could finish our dinner before moving the cars out of the lot. He said “yes, and you can finish your joint as well”! The Oregonian article says 70 to 100 persons were ordered out of the park that evening, but I think most everyone stayed.
Anyone remember the Monkey Face climber’s camp?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2015 - 07:29am PT
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Scott Davis, summit, Wolf Rock, after Barad Dur, 1979
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Hey Survival, Cool Beacon photo blast from the past. Let me know if you ever come down to Beacon again, do some routes! Heres some photos from yesterday.
Hey Survival, That's a cool Beacon photo!
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qigongclimber
climber
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fyi: First of all, it's Smith Rock, not Smith Rocks. Jeez.
One of the most unassuming but prolific climbers BITD (early to mid-70's in this case) was Wayne Arrington. In addition to doing countless first ascents at Smith Rock, few people know that he soloed Picnic Lunch Wall and did the first solo ascent of the Triple Direct on El Cap in March 1976. This was a few days after doing a ten hour blitz (for those days) of the South Face of Washington Column. He is still alive and kicking and doing some climbing.
After spending the night at the peaceful Monkey Face climber's camp, Wayne and I got up to an extremely cold April 1972 morning and proceeded to do three Monkey Face routes (NW Corner, East Face, West Face Variation) in 12 hours. We got to Bonn Street at the 11:40 mark and realized we could make the top in under 12 hours. Re-energized, it took 8 minutes to aid the bold ladder.
As we were climbing First Kiss, Wayne, who was a helicopter pilot in Vietnam, explained the flight dynamics of the falcons who were nesting on a cliff across the way. We notified a ranger friend of John's about the previously unreported nest, and the area was promptly shut down for climbing for the rest of the nesting season.
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Joron
Trad climber
Hoodland, Oregon
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Good stuff Quigong!
Go Jeff!
This summer I hired a local retired logger to help me split and stack firewood. When he learned I was a climber he mentioned he used to log with Wayne Arrington. He was wondering if all the wild climbing stories Wayne used to tell the crew were really true!
Old Oregon climbing guides through the 1980's from the collection:
A Climbers Guide to the Smith Rocks, 1962 Mazama Annual - James & Jarold Ramsey and Vivian Staender
A Climbers Guide to Oregon, 1968 - Nicholas A. Dodge
A Climbing Guide to Oregon, 1975 - Nicholas A. Dodge
A Climber's Guide to Smith Rock, Beacon Rock and Stein's Pillar, 1978 - Jeff Thomas
Oregon Rock A Climber's Guide, 1983 - Jeff Thomas
Rocky Butte Quarry, 1987 - Mike Pajunas & Bob McGown
Smith Rock Topo-Giude, 1988 - Hubert Staub
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qigongclimber
climber
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Joron - I'd have to say that your logging friend was probably relaying true stories. wayne had so many wild times when climbing. Remember that a lot of his climbing was done solo, which in itself tilts the experience toward the epic side, even when the final outcome was ok. but it was his narrow escapes from helicopter incidents (described in some cases in newspapers) which blew me away the most. He sent me a picture once of a totally smashed helicopter with at least one tree through it. Not sure how he managed to emerge alive from that one. Of course, he got a lot of practice crashing helicopters when he was shot down six times in Vietnam….
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2015 - 08:11pm PT
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Great stuff you guys, and great photos!!
I'll call it Smith Rocks if I want. I earned it!! It's one letter, and there's clearly more than one rock there!!
(But mostly we just called it Smith...)
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Poppi
Trad climber
Portland oregon
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Apr 26, 2016 - 07:35pm PT
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What a great forum. I stumbled across it yesterday and it has brought back so many memories. Makes me want to get into my old slides from Smith and share. I started climbing there in 1970 with many of these great guys. Jeff Thomas, Dean Fry and I used to drive over from OSU to scare ourselves in 1970. Wade the river, camp at the top of Burma Road, set up a tyrolean across the irrigation canal when it was full. Jeff Thomas driving his blue Ford Fairlane as fast as he could up Burma Road because his dad told him it was easier on a car on a rough road to drive it fast, Dean and I would be screaming wanting him to stop. I climb once a year when I take my 5 granddaughters to Smith and top rope for a day. Still have all my gear but too many interest and I'm still working but thinking of retiring in a year. Hey Joron, call me sometime (Tim carpenter), would like to meet up, maybe Smith. Spent this weekend on the Deschutes in my drift oat fly fishing, drifted by the Trout Creek wall, looks pretty cool. Thanks for all the photos and memories! Think im ready for some ice cream at Juniper Junction.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 26, 2016 - 08:01pm PT
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Good to see this thread bumped.
We're meeting Survival at Smith in two weeks... Old dudes trying to remember how to climb...
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2016 - 10:36pm PT
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YES!!!
Countdown!!
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Joron
Trad climber
Hoodland, Oregon
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Apr 27, 2016 - 01:18am PT
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Good stories, Poppi! Yes, please dig out the old slides and post up. Let's meet up at Smith and I hope you retire soon so we can get out for more climbing and skiing!
Looking forward to the TR, Ghost & Survival...
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mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
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Apr 27, 2016 - 07:10am PT
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Back in 1973, after a long dismal winter in Seattle, one of our climbing friends, Don Brooks, went on a solo climbing journey in his Ford Falcon station wagon to Oregon. By that time we were all seasoned Yosemite veterans and hadn't heard much about climbing in Oregon.
He came back with pictures of a ghastly brushy tower called Stein's Pillar. He also came back with pictures of a solo nail up climb he did on some tower called the Monkey's Face in a place called Smith Rock. None of us had ever heard of this area and weren't impressed by the crumbly look of the rock. We all laughed and packed up for our annual journey to the sunny granite walls of Yosemite.
Who'd a thunk what Smith Rock would become to climbers??
BTW- Say hi to Neil Olsen for me if anyone sees him...... I remember he was a roofer and he could bend completely over and reach the ground without bending his knees. I guess that helped with pounding shingles.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 27, 2016 - 07:49am PT
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June 1970 we headed for Whitney (from Seattle) via the east side. Stopped at these cliffs
unbeknownst to us just north of Bend. The conversation went thusly:
"It looks pretty cool."
"Yeah, but there aren't any cracks and it looks like it would dissolve in a rain storm."
"Let's roll."
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