Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 26 of total 26 in this topic |
Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 2, 2015 - 12:07pm PT
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Mine was an old #3 Friend, up on Doggie Deviations. Most other falls were on a variety of different chocks, smallest there was a #4 stopper. Others were on pitons.
Post 'em up!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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A number 1 Wild Country, I think?
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Off the top of my head: #3 Crack N Up, #2 BD stopper, #3 Ballnut (lots of times), #0 Metolius, #2 Titon, and a few times on somewhat less than bomb natural pro.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Two big wingers on to purple c3- one of them close to factor 0.5. cammy widgets are amazing
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The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
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30 footer on a number 1 LoweBall and a 20 or so footer on a number 2 WC Zero.... totally forgot how many times a Beak has saved my ass!
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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old style 000# TCU on a 12 foot daisy chain fall. 6' custom Yates Daisy's
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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I've seen two falls (and held one)where #1-#0 TCUs were blown apart. Not spectacularly long falls either.
Both times the leader was a big guy.
The princess used to take repeated falls on #00s no problem.
There's a big difference between 200lb hitting like a sack of cement and 100lb sorta graceful plunge.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2015 - 01:41pm PT
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Reason I bring this up---planning to buy some of the #0, #00, and #000 Metolius cams for an upcoming trip. I've never used any cams that small before, and always want to "save my ass."
Edit: I'm more like a 200 pound sack of cement these days, not the 175 pounder I was BITD.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID or the fricken Bakken, variously
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Roger, I fell 100 + on a 0.
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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60 feet onto a tied-off/half-nailed-in baby angle near the top of the Shield headwall. It had some cam force that somehow held it in.
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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25-footer on a black alien. 10-footer on a 00 Metolius. Probably will be whipping on a 000 Metolius at some point in the future. Sh#t is bomber!
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Eye opening calculator to play with.
http://junkfunnel.com/fallforce/
A 100 kg climber, (not to hard to do if you are around 200 lb and count the rack and maybe approach shoes too)
8% elongation rope (Softest available)
10m of rope out
3m fall (only 1.5m out from piece)
Generates almost the rated (5kn)strength of the #1 and #0 TCUs, 4.8kn
A 50 kg climber can take a 30' whipper and generate about the same load.
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MikeMc
Social climber
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Short painful 12 foot slab grind onto a 00 TCU.
I learned a lot about falling on slabs (don't) and trusting my placements.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Blue Alien for me. It was mangled afterwards and has never been the same.
Also caught a partner on a Blue-Black Alien, which faired a little better.
Both were aid falls, so not very long.
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overwatch
climber
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10 footer or so on the smallest TCU
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Aya K
Trad climber
Boulder, CO!
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00 TCU.. many times... only fixed one of em!
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Degaine
climber
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I've taken mid-sized whippers on a yellow alien and a bd#3 stopper.
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Bill Mc Kirgan
Trad climber
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
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#2/yellow C3.
PushMi, Pull-Yu 5.6 at Devil's Lake
> East Bluff - East Rampart
> Bill's Buttress
It was his second placement in the first 15 feet of the climb. He fell on it as he started climbing above it. As he fell I braced for the C3 to fail sending him a foot further to the stopper below, and fully expecting his feet to hit me about the head and shoulders. When I looked up he was hanging there off the yellow c3 with a big grin, and then continued climbing.
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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30 footer with probably 90 feet of rope out onto a perfect blue alien. Apparently this was one alien that was not missing the silver brazing.
Blew about 1/2 the screamer I had clipped to it.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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I caught a fall in the factor 1.7 range on a blue Alien. It was placed in a shallow horizontal crack to the side of and level with the belay, and the impact rotated the piece towards the belay so that only two lobes were still in the crack.
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Gunkie
climber
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Old black Alien on Max Factor at Skytop. Very short fall (on easy-ish terrain)
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Barbarian
climber
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I can't figure out why you guys have so many different sized cams on your rack. A single blue Camelot is sufficient.
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TLP
climber
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TGT, that fall force calculator may work, but elongation in a fall is much greater than 8%. That's the static elongation with an 80 kg weight (as stated in the info page of that very same link you provided). But the dynamic elongation, when the rope holds a fall of that same 80 kg weight, is much much greater than 8%. I think it's close to 30% at maximum impact force (factor 2), but you can find the exact numbers on rope manufacturers' web sites.
Our resident number-crunchers such as rgold and others can enlighten us much more I am sure. Nevertheless, this thread including his post immediately above provides plenty of empirical proof that really small cams and other sketch-fests can hold significant falls. No matter what the numbers say.
I still hate to fall unless my outfit is properly color-coordinated with reds or browns; one of those is bound to result.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Agreed that it seems to produce higher forces than real world experience indicates and it doesn't factor in the energy absorbed by the belayer,a soft catch or a slider.
Still the relative difference between what a Clydesdale can get away with on small gear versus a skinny spurt climber is huge.
I won't even bother carrying a #00 TCU.
#4nut, Yes.
Fallen on those a few times
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Daisy fall on a silver C3, still wince when I think about that one. Multiple falls(3'-10') on purple C3s and 0.2(yellow) Camelot Jrs.
They all hold, but the margin for error is minimal.
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