Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 67 of total 67 in this topic |
The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 1, 2015 - 09:42am PT
|
Oh Man.... post em up. The shet your pants wtf is this Ace Hardware I'm gonna die, stories.
|
|
The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2015 - 09:46am PT
|
Yur lucky! Half of the ones I replaced I literally tapped with my hammer and then pulled out with my fingers... the bolts.
If so many only knew the truth of the shet I encountered and replaced.
|
|
phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
|
|
Thank you so much for taking the time to do that. Quite possibly saving someones life.
|
|
The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2015 - 10:45am PT
|
Unfortunately, the manner that anyone put them in was..... not so good.
What I found was that the holes that the original bolts were inserted into were oversized/blown out at the initial drill point for a good 1/4 to 1/3 of an inch.
Thus allowing any moisture to enter and ultimately do it's corrosion thang.
A very common issue I encountered not just in them Hills, btw.
|
|
cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
|
|
Thanks for replacing non-ss bolts.
Water will get into the bolt hole regardless of size of the initial hole opening. A slightly cratered hole opening should not affect tension strength since the shear cone develops from near the bottom of the bolt. When the bolt is loaded in shear, the bolt may experience some bending at the surface as well- then if the angle of pull slightly changes because of the bending, the bolt may experience a component of tension.
Are you reusing the holes?
|
|
The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2015 - 11:54am PT
|
Negative on the old holes. I always Re-drilled, with a PD in most cases, and initiated a whole new enchilada for either the anchor or pro hanger with SS 5 Piece Rawls, 3/8 or 1/2'ers, Hangers and Anchor Hardware from ASCA. Filled in the old holes and camo'd em up like they never existed.
|
|
bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
|
|
I have been replacing a lot of these in Colorado in Clear Creek Canyon(Cat Slab and Highwire Crag) and also at the Monastery near Estes Park. The ones at belays were being used as rappel/lower points and since the metal is soft they were getting worn through and dangerously thin.
Too bad these were a staple of the dirtbag climbers kit for a while.
|
|
The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2015 - 11:59am PT
|
Of course they were Locker. You don't fk up, ever. You have too much time on your hands to do so. Move along now.
BTW Locker, which of them "A-Hill Routes" were Your perfect bolts/anchors on? Curious.
I have photos of every route/bolt I replaced there.
Bhilden.... Yup! I will dig through my photos but I have several that were worn down to a Dimes thickness and actually watched people rap off of em.
INSANE!!!
|
|
jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
|
|
FACT worn cold shuts are stronger than new ones.
|
|
COT
climber
Door Number 3
|
|
Not a shut but why salt water and mixed metals are bad ju ju
|
|
The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2015 - 03:03pm PT
|
jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
Sep 1, 2015 - 02:19pm PT
FACT worn cold shuts are stronger than new ones.
Which ones... Those made of Chinese, Russian, French, Mexican or USofA's metals/ones.
And I do not think that applies to a Shut that has less than 1/2 of a MM of metal left to bear on the rope contact area.
|
|
FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
|
|
Why would you think worn shuts would be stronger?
|
|
FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
|
|
^^^^What?
|
|
Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
|
|
About the worn shuts being "stronger". I remember reading something about the worn groove kept the rope at the bottom of the shut which kept the rope in line and prevented it from riding up the open side and bending it open. It was somewhere on ST, maybe a banquo thread?
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
Someone did some tests I saw. New cold shuts would roll open at "x" force. The rope would slide out on the shut, opening it to failure. A modest groove would hold the rope in place, strengthening the shut. Of course there comes a point when the shut is compromised.
|
|
Bad Climber
climber
|
|
Thanks, Chief. We all you. Keep the faith and the good works.
BAd
|
|
The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2015 - 09:13pm PT
|
And have any of you felt the edges of the "worn groove" on many of the those shuts.
Razor sharp.
Any forward or aft movement of that rope and cut em up baby!
|
|
Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
|
|
Replaced the anchors on top of Killer Pillar today. Only 2 were 5/16" button heads, but I replaced everything as nothing was stainless and I was there anyway. Now, as for those two 1/2" cold shunts with the nice long 1/2" bolts: I clipped into the right hand one and pulled the left hand one just for inspection as I didn't plan to replace those monsters. Just as expected, all was good with just a little surface rust. The right hand one was loose and would not tighten up so I decided to pull it also. As I loosened it I noiticed the bolt was bent, and when removed I found a 1" long horizontal crack at the base where the bolt goes thru and a vertical crack part way thru in the same location as the horizontal crack. There was fresh chalk on the holds below and a bit of spilled chalk on top. Who ever is working this route (The Hundredth Monkey) will probably be pissed off to find one of those monster cold shunts missing and a whimpy 3/8" stainless 5-piece bolt with a ASCA FIXE hanger in it's place. If anyone out there knows who is working this route you could tell them that I will be in my shop behind the Volunteer Field Office all day tomorrow and they can come by and have a look at what they were falling on.
|
|
The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2015 - 05:29pm PT
|
1/2" What..... Jeff.
|
|
The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2015 - 05:41pm PT
|
Spit it out Locker.... the name of the routes.
If not their locations... You can do it.
PS: I know for a fact that Raleigh would have his welded shut when he could. We spoke prior to his demise about how he did the deal in the Hills. I like Raleigh tons. And he was the Badass of the A-Hills for sure. Not a question about that. IMO.
Michael, well depended on his state of mind. Unfortunately Michael wasn't in too good of frame of mind when I started doing the rebolting in the Hills in order to get his story.
|
|
The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2015 - 05:56pm PT
|
Sep 2, 2015 - 05:50pm PT
EDUCATE yourself and do some research...
You'll at least find what's in print...
I assisted the most recent GB author with them A-Hills section, Locker. You'll see that in the Credits.
So, with that said, I need a name to do my "research".
I do NOT recollect any route FA by................. LOcker!
|
|
The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2015 - 06:04pm PT
|
I never called you a liar.... Never..... LOcker. You did.
A name to verify your presence in the A-Hills FA list, LOcker.
And your work.
Simple!
|
|
The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2015 - 06:33pm PT
|
And where did you acquire them USA ones, Jeff. Curious.
Edit: Locker... you're toooooooooo.... Location. That's all I need.
|
|
The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2015 - 06:41pm PT
|
Yup.
Got Mike's and Marty's and my personal nine pages sitting right here in front of me standing the fk by.
Location... that's all I need.
|
|
The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2015 - 10:14pm PT
|
WOW! That's it! That's the one!!!
I distinctly remember that, bolted boulder problem.
I think someone from the towns Film Council came along a couple years ago with a 25' extension ladder and chopped the 9 bolts and left the crevices in place to make it look like bullet holes for an upcoming movie that was scheduled to be shot there.
I laughed my ass off when I saw it.
TFPU PotatoHead.
EDIT: Great photo. I can see that the lead is working hard, he is on a "Take" after two moves. Check out the tension on the rope!
|
|
The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2015 - 10:24pm PT
|
My bad... looks just like a route that was in AH.
People take trash to the base of your routes LOcker....
WTF is up with that, DUDE!!!
GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOFFA!
|
|
The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2015 - 10:29pm PT
|
Now now LOcker....
That photo was taken sort of at my personal playground just a few miles up the road from me...Locals use it to unload their trash.
Let's back up now and rethink this.
Try to "understand" what you stated just five mins ago... LOcker.
Are you now insinuating that you you play at the JT dump?
|
|
The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2015 - 10:32pm PT
|
Don't Deflect.... try to "Understand" what you stated.
Your local playground is where the locals dump their trash.
locker
climber
STFU n00b!!!
Sep 2, 2015 - 10:19pm PT
That photo was taken sort of at my personal playground just a few miles up the road from me...Locals use it to unload their trash..
|
|
The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2015 - 10:34pm PT
|
locker
climber
STFU n00b!!!
Sep 2, 2015 - 10:19pm PT
That photo was taken sort of at my personal playground just a few miles up the road from me...Locals use it to unload their trash..
|
|
The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2015 - 10:42pm PT
|
It's not far off???
Bullshet... it's SPOT ON!
Good night.
PHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEW... WTF is that smell!
DUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUDE!
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
It's this place and it's two cousins...
Located on the #247 between Landers and Lucerne Valley.
Boulders are covered in spraypaint but some of the rock looks fun and can bumper belay. I can post pics of the 'artwork' I took along this stretch of road later, some interesting things people feel the need to paint onto rock.
There are a number of boulder groups in the nearby desert.
All covered in broken glass like Wagon Wheel. I dont understand how these areas are 'managed'. The locals do dump trash here, yep.
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
Locker if this has been your personal playground, despite the obvious drawbacks of garbage, spraypaint and glass, I say GOOD ON YOU MAN!
I have travelled that road many timers on my trips from Canada, wish we could have met and you shown me around.
Love bumper belays.
Area is very peaceful, rock is nice in spots and fun looking lines.
If your a developer of these boulder clumps that is awesome man.
The ones south-west of the highway look good, but never drove over.
Will post my artwork later.
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
There's nothing like belaying while staring at toilet paper and human feces...
makes you a stronger climber :)
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
Nice!
Write a guidebook to the area:The Wrong Side of the Tracks From JTree!
What about the area just north down that local dirt road from the pic with the Batman logo? Any good? Private property?
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
Locker,
I would buy a stapled guidebook for the area for the next time I roll thru.
I will post some 'tagging' shots later this evening I took in May this year.
Certainly a gritty area for those who dare!
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
^^Sorry,
it dont matter how many routes are here, that is irrelevant. The stuff that is tallest looks awesome, and I love that there are 26 routes here, good stuff, and sounds like the place has some obscure history. I went by this:
http://www.tripadvisor.ca/ShowUserReviews-g32608-d315522-r149915923-Integratron-Landers_California.html
Cool. Big Rock is there but never made it out, darn, next time.
Anyway as your sorry goes Locker about the gunshot in the west section, you have to have balls to climb here. Its pretty south-central. Sounds like lots of obscure history, would love to hear about it.
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
...The tops of these boulders in these clumps look so good.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
You guys in "Califoria" sure have cornered the market on graffiti adorned rock climbing!
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
OMG my first reply from Jim Donini. Scrapbook time!
Have to say i loooove California, its people, i have been there so many times its like my second home, even dated a girl long-distance from Riverside.
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
Your friend on Sandbag Soo looks happy, (he is a few moves away from rappelling to a beer and peeing where he damn well pleases!) Thats all that matters right, climbing happy no?
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
|
|
thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
|
|
can somebody please post a shot of the N--ga please boulder?
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
OMG i would love to go aid climb practice there, be like buildering but instead of expecting cops at the top, you wonder if your gonna die from gunshot wound. A1 here likely means A4. I have seen that overhang it looks nice, thanks for posting. We got good ju-ju going on homie, let's keep it going, screw those political threads.
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
Sandbag Soo- OMG did i say something rascist?
Oh well, kinda fitting for the area. OMG Locker I would love to come to Cali and tour this place, been to loads of California places but not a place quite like this. You can buy $5 Compton hats on Hollywood Blvd for those Yucca Valley Climbing selfies, yo.
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
Locker, I would be honored to have a tour with you.
I spent a day with Steve Gerberding in JTree, what a wonderful guy he is.
Supertopian 'Keese' gave me a bouldering pad once.
Have sold guidebook for Santa Barbara bouldering to this fellow on Supertopo and I find out he knows a climber Scott Crawford I met in Thailand in '92.
I love California and its people, although you have no water to survive, your state is still truly remarkable.
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
Locker I have a pic of the huge Batman logo from about 2005 I posted here once, likely you who replied, can't recall.
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
OMG i am booking a ticket now.
hahaha that is a wicked name for a route.
I have worked in the newspaper industry (R.I.P.) for 20 years, 10 of those strictly doing nothing but fixing photos in Photoshop so they print fine. Make a guidebook, send me the pics to digitally enhance, for free.
Word yo.
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
Steve certainly is.
You should name that route earlier in this thread - 5.homo
That is an awesome name!!
Some people just don't think a place has an history, them blam, guys like you Locker give us some insight. I love history, so I thank you.
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
Geographically between JTree and New Jack City, so kinda bit of both rock qualities funny enough.
Roadside cragging is every climbing tourists dream. We have enough looong approaches in Canada, so when I go to California I enjoy a good bumper belay.
Nice pics.
Sorry to whomever mocked this area.
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
I only bouldered at New Jack not a soul not even the campground manager.
It is the place with the plastic dinosaur that they call Sawtooth Canyon right? I was only 90% sure that I was at New jack when i saw this entrance sign. Dumb Canadian sure.
They should have lightly mentioned that in the guidebook that its actually known as Sawtooth and has a campground.
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
No prob dude, dont have Cali (sorry locals for using that slang..) on the future radar, as I have been so many times I had to cut myself off. But if your ever in the Canadian Rockies....
And yes to the correcting of photos for guidebook offer, no prob, free as can be, give back to the community eh.
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
|
|
Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
.....and Jim Donini, you look amazing for your age, good on you dude! I love reading your old stories in mags.
Is Locker really that cut or did I see a Photoshop version??!
|
|
| Messages 1 - 67 of total 67 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Cattle Pocket: Curving Crack. ... Anchors replaced and the bolts/hangers were all fine with the exception that I hand camo painted em per the *bosses request.
Let us know!