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skitch
Gym climber
Bend Or
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Aug 28, 2015 - 07:52am PT
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What's the deal with Tom Evans?
Before we did the nose last fall we were told that we should check in with Tom ahead of time. We tried to talk to him 2 days before heading up and he was so unfriendly we decided not to bother. He did end up taking a cool pic of me on the swing, but due to his unfriendly nature I didn't bother donating anything.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Aug 28, 2015 - 07:52am PT
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Kool
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Aug 28, 2015 - 07:54am PT
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Try again another day. He's usually cool..everyone has a bad day once in a while.
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Aug 28, 2015 - 08:20am PT
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Erik, are you taking over the "El Cap Report?"
As for Tom, you have to earn his friendship, as it goes for anyone. Just remember that Tom has to deal with thousands of tourists and hundreds of climbers every year. If you want something from anyone, go prepared with a six pack... ;)
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overwatch
climber
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Aug 28, 2015 - 08:30am PT
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Why do you have to check in with him, does he issue the permits?
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ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
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Aug 28, 2015 - 08:36am PT
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Why do you have to check in with him, does he issue the permits?
He definitely issues something
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Aug 28, 2015 - 08:53am PT
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Hey Skitch,
You probly just caught Tom at a bad time. When he's packing up and getting ready to head back out of the valley to camp he can be a little short with folks.
He generally treats all prospective El Cap climbers as equals. Until they bail... ;)
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Erik Sloan
Big Wall climber
Yosemitebigwall.com
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2015 - 09:23am PT
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Tom Evans is a great guy, and we're lucky that he continues to come and hang out with us and take our pictures. Tom is usually here Sept 15 - Nov 1 ish!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Aug 28, 2015 - 09:39am PT
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Hey Nanook,
TFPU. Neil told me yesterday it is pretty hot, and that he and Joe were bringing six litres of water per person per day. I see from the forecast it is supposed to cool off a bit.
Anita, Mike Stonewalker Davis and I arrive on Sept 13, so we'll see you then, eh?
Cheers,
PtPP
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Aug 28, 2015 - 09:47am PT
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We tried to talk to him 2 days before heading up and he was so unfriendly we decided not to bother. You should have tried him *after* your climb - because until then, you're just yet another in a long line of clueless wankers who want to climb the Nose. You'll act like it, and you'll be treated as such.
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
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Aug 28, 2015 - 09:51am PT
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few shots from lurking fear (in a day!) a few days back. a little hot for few hours in late afternoon, but not to bad.
go get some!!!
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overwatch
climber
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Aug 28, 2015 - 09:59am PT
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That thing is so awesome looking.
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Aug 28, 2015 - 10:07am PT
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Woot woot!
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Ogden, Utah
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Aug 28, 2015 - 10:17am PT
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Folks freshly down from their first 5.8 lead mingle with A5 crushers.
Where is this A5 rating you speak of? I've been looking for it a loooong time and haven't seen it, yet.
Nice report, Nanook!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Aug 28, 2015 - 10:18am PT
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Shayna can actually CLIMB? All I saw her do was stand on the bridge, and talk about soloing the Nose.
Less talk, more rock. She and I spoke of this. She owes me a report.
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
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Aug 28, 2015 - 10:47am PT
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Pete
you will have to ask for multiple trip reports, as she is currently getting on the big stone more than anyone else!
u go girl!
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Ogden, Utah
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Aug 28, 2015 - 10:57am PT
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Less talk, more rock.
That's pretty rich, coming from you, Pete.
Although you have put a LOT of time on the rock, your talk definitely superceedes it. Haha!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Aug 28, 2015 - 11:01am PT
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Dan - that is good to hear! I never got her End of Spring Season report.
[I *knew* that would get a rise out of Ammon! Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha!!]
Ammon - are you coming this fall? How is your ankle?
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Aug 28, 2015 - 11:06am PT
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Where is this A5 rating you speak of? I've been looking for it a loooong time and haven't seen it, yet.
LOL...
+10
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Aug 28, 2015 - 11:22am PT
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Ask Beyer,
Everything he does is A5 or harder..
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skitch
Gym climber
Bend Or
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Aug 28, 2015 - 11:58am PT
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For someone that makes a living off the generosity of strangers you'd expect more friendliness.
I may be a first time El Cap'er but my friend had already done the nose in a day and salathe over 3, but how would tom know that if he gives the cold shoulder to climbers?
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Aug 28, 2015 - 12:15pm PT
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For someone that makes a living off the generosity of strangers you'd expect more friendliness.
I may be a first time El Cap'er but my friend had already done the nose in a day and salathe over 3, but how would tom know that if he gives the cold shoulder to climbers?
Dude, relationships are forged, not instantly made man.
I've been friends with Tom for 4 years now since I was a newb that did Lurking Fear for my first wall. Even to this day, Tom is occasionally short with me because he is BUSY shooting photos for climbers and answering questions for the hundreds of tourists that stroll by. The El Cap Bridge has become an attraction and Tom's name has become synonymous with the El Cap Bridge. Cut him some slack dude.
Also, he doesn't earn a living from working the bridge and I've never been asked by him to donate money.
Lastly, you coming on here and ranting about Tom after only meeting him once says more about your character than his. ;)
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Aug 28, 2015 - 12:22pm PT
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WOO HOO, awesome!!
Hey Eric, see you in early October!! It will be here soon, though not soon enough...
Paul
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Prod
Trad climber
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Aug 28, 2015 - 12:23pm PT
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Tom Evans is a gem. Great guy and a wealth of knowledge. Must have been a bad day. We all get them.
Prod.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Aug 28, 2015 - 02:49pm PT
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Tom Evans is definitely WAY cool, at least every time I've been around him. He was a chopper pilot in a conflict he didn't ask for. He came home to be one of the earliest guys to climb the Big Wall. And that was when real men dragged their heavy iron up there, and hung on with one hand while strenuously pounding it in. His Hubble camera setup has been used by YOSAR to evaluate and plan for rescue operations. I've never met anyone who didn't like Tom. The post above about a "foul demeanor" totally surprised me - perhaps there was a degranged, Tom Evans-look-alike that day, harassing tourists.
That said, the whole You Are Now In The Big Wall Fishbowl aspect to climbing El Capitan can be kinda sad. It's hard enough for people to get up the courage and fortitude to climb El Cap, without having to additionally face final judgement from a mocking gallery of beer saturated hotshots chiming in together about the "Bail of the Day". It is even worse, when the whole schadenfreude symphony is posted - irreversibly - to the internet.
If I am up on the Big Wall, intentionally going off-route to Albatross from Mushroom to get onto an untraveled headwall crack that's about as good as the Shield was, four decades ago, I don't want to later hear of people snickering that I "got lost". I don't want to hear about the A6 Experts passing judgement over whether or not I "cheated" past a blown out (pastable) RURP hole, because I tossed a stopper on a sling onto a rivet two moves up.
Overall, the pictures of people up there are great. I think the commentary aspect can make it less fun, though, for some who climb El Capitan. Climbing is supposed to be a personal thing, not a group effort with a bunch of flat-footers second-guessing, on the internet no less, all your gumby moves and noob mistakes. Some people, peacocks especially, might enjoy the notoriety of being the Big News on the El Cap Report. But, that is certainly not true of everyone. When I was doing walls, and being photographed and critiqued in The Report, I didn't really care. Now, though, I realize that sometimes the "harmless banter" that accompanies the photos can be harsh to the hapless subjects, who have little or no control over what gets written about them, and then permanently archived on the very public internet.
Keep the great photos coming. But, do unto others as you would have them do unto you, if you replaced yourself into their situation and position. Just because some preening peacocks enjoy being broadcast out to the entire world, doesn't mean that sort of thing is fun for everyone.
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overwatch
climber
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Aug 28, 2015 - 04:18pm PT
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Good post
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Prod
Trad climber
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Aug 29, 2015 - 07:38am PT
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Interesting post Tom.
Not sure I totally agree, but I get your point.
Cheers,
Prod.
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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Aug 29, 2015 - 04:53pm PT
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Hey Tom-your post was spot on, and to me captures the problems associated with modern climbing and social media-you don't have a choice IF you climb somewhere popular and accessible. It can be intimidating to beginners, or people pushing their limits. Best to climb in a more private location-that's my preference.
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Aug 30, 2015 - 01:28pm PT
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Thank you Tom!!!
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Aug 30, 2015 - 05:30pm PT
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Tom making a "living off".. haha. I'm sure Tom spends a lot of his retirement time and money in the valley, trying to scrounge a place to live nearby and a slow ass Internet connection waiting patiently for his pics to upload. Pics taken with expensive gear that some snot nosed kid knocks over while his parents aren't paying attention. Like the disclaimer says his expenses are way more than any donations received.
I always try to keep in mind when I'm in a situation like that that the person I'm talking to meets hundreds of people at the same place day in and day out. It all blends together. While I'm there once in a while so it's a unique situation for me and it's easy to know who the one and only Tom Evans is.
I'd definitely recommenced introducing yourself while handing over a beer or 6 in appreciation for all the fine pics and reporting over the years.
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Aug 30, 2015 - 06:08pm PT
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Beers are always welcomed at the Bridge... I might have one on a hot day but most go to climbers coming down from ElCap, all dirty and sweaty. Nothing quite like watching a couple of climbers, trudging past the Bridge under huge loads, perk up when I ask if they could use a cold beer!! Plus we get to hang out with them and hear about their adventures on the great rock! Heroes for a day!! We never tire of that!!
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Gene
climber
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Aug 30, 2015 - 07:09pm PT
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I have heard from very reliable sources that proceeds from The El Cap Report have allowed Tom to buy that Maui beach front condo as well as a Caribbean winter vacation home he co-own with a certain Jamaican born big wall climber. It's true!
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