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| Messages 1 - 42 of total 42 in this topic |
jmacrosoft
Sport climber
Atlanta, GA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 3, 2015 - 07:23am PT
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I will be embarking on my first pilgrimage to Yosemite in less than a month. What are some of the "go to" routes that you would recommend a first timer? Wanting to really enjoy my time there and get in a few, fun, routes to really get a feel for what Yosemite has to offer!
I've checked out the "Yosemite's Best Free Climbing Routes" and leaning towards "Snake Dike" with a few others. Thanks in advance for your input!
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Do Snake Dike if you like long tourist filled approaches, baking conditions on route, waiting for slow parties, and uninteresting climbing up a slab. It really would NOT be my first choice for a first Yosemite climb.
Cathedral Peak
Reeds Regular Route
Superslide (Evening for shade)
Central Pillar of Frenzy (Afternoon)
These are better first choices as far as easy stuff goes
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Manure Pile is a quicky with almost zero approach.
edit: easy is a relative term
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sounds like late August.....still hot in the Valley. I would recommend the Steck Salathe.....quintessential Yosemite climb with a lot of shade. You might want to warm up on the NEB of Higher Cathedral Rock which also catches some shade.....have fun!
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Brock
Trad climber
RENO, NV
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In September weather can still be very warm so be prepared for early mornings on climbs on the south facing routes and then moving to North facing routes in afternoon. Be prepared to have several options to climb each day. Toulumne is an option too. Be safe and have a great trip...Welcome to Yosemite.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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hard to recommend anything with such scant knowledge of your recent climbing...
Donini's would be a great list for some, a horror for others and a complete non-starter for the majority of first timers to the Valley (especially first starters asking STForum for a list).
Every climbing area requires climbers to take their time to understand what the area "features" are... when I haven't climbed in the Valley for a bit I am startled by the smoothness of the features.
Also, it is warm in the Valley through the summer, not to say that there aren't times-of-day that make climbing possible, just that you're going to be warm if you don't seek out the cool spots, which generally are on the south walls, at least until mid-day, the summer sun rides high! The "locals" migrate to the high country (Tuolumne Meadows) for the summer and return to the Valley after the tourist season, when the temperatures are more moderate.
Have you ever climbed in Yosemite Valley?
Where do you regularly climb?
What kind of climbing do you like, are good at?
How hard do you climb trad (have you climbed trad)?
How long will you be in the Valley?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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What, no love for Lembert Dome Direttissima? For shame!
OK, if you're not up to that then NE Buttress of Higher beats Steck Salathe,
especially if you're 'spacially challenged', either mentally or physically.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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What Donni said, that sly ol' fox.
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sheepdog
Trad climber
just over the hill
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Sally Moser gave me the following informal guide to the Valley in '85 (or thereabouts) when I was moving to the bay area...
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Sheepdog-
That is a truly wonderful post.
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jmacrosoft
Sport climber
Atlanta, GA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2015 - 09:36am PT
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Have you ever climbed in Yosemite Valley?
Where do you regularly climb?
What kind of climbing do you like, are good at?
How hard do you climb trad (have you climbed trad)?
How long will you be in the Valley?
Hey Ed! Thanks for the feedback. This will be our first time to Yosemite Valley. I am in Atlanta so we mainly climb in Alabama/Tennessee. I personally do more sport and bouldering. Trad is new to me. However, another climber in our group does trad/multipitch frequently. We will be there for 3 full days.
We have a few trips planned in the next few weekends with a close friend who is a trad expert and manager at our local climbing gym. He will be helping us become more familiar with trad. Also will be getting us accustomed to cleaning gear and setting pro (even though I personally will not be leading).
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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I am a big, Very big dog lover, Sheep dogs, while shaggy, fit in there some where.
That Moser Chick, she and I were never thick, then she badgered about working for or joining the baby access fund. Sadly, we lost touch when the package she sent me was not retuned in the affirmative.
Still,t her friends, she lent, both, guys, and the springy things, and they, as she has , did the best intro to Cali ever!
Sheep dog's Sally Moser's list is complete and should be on everyone's list!
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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3 daze in the valley/tuolumne will barely give you enough time to grasp where you are. I don't mean this in a bad way, but it is just BIG.
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Cool list Sheepdog - thanks for sharing.
I love the 'better be strong for this one' under Reeds Direct
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jmacrosoft
Sport climber
Atlanta, GA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2015 - 11:49am PT
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^ true. That's why I'm bringing someone with trad experience.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Where will you be staying? Going to Tuolumne every day from The Valley will add a lot of driving to your itinerary.
Do Snake Dike if you like long tourist filled approaches, baking conditions on route, waiting for slow parties, and uninteresting climbing up a slab.
Well, the first three can be potentially mitigated by an early enough start. And the climbing is not technically demanding, but I wouldn't call it uninteresting. It's mellow in a phenomenal setting on one of the most iconic pieces of rock in the world, and with a sport background you can take half the leads. Then when you get home you can spray about having climbed Half Dome. Just be judicious with the detals. ;)
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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I like Sally Moser's list and undertook one much like it once upon a time. You could do much worse.
The Valley will be hot, but if you don't freak out at a little sweat, then you'll be fine. Have fun & start early, finish early....it'll be glorious. Fill us in, perhaps?
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jmacrosoft
Sport climber
Atlanta, GA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2015 - 12:21pm PT
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I like Sally Moser's list and undertook one much like it once upon a time. You could do much worse.
The Valley will be hot, but if you don't freak out at a little sweat, then you'll be fine. Have fun & start early, finish early....it'll be glorious. Fill us in, perhaps?
That list is amazing. Especially since it's circa 1985. This trip to the Valley has been calling me and I know that, even if I wouldn't be able to climb, it will be life changing. I'll gladly provide an update, possibly TR, after my journey from a first time visitor! Thanks for the advice.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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Dude, my first trip to Yosemite changed my life & continues to influence it to this very day.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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For someone who has mostly bouldered and sport climbed, even though Snake Dike is not technically difficult, it can give plenty of pucker factor and full-on sense of adventure. For the hike, you divert from the main trail to the summit so you have some time to yourself with now crowds until the actual base of the climb. Or hike at night to avoid crowds.
If you want to do other long climbs (one of the main attractions of Yosemite), you should probably stick with routes that are technically easier than you would normally do. And bring a space blanket to make an unplanned bivy more comfortable. Then just go for it!
On the way in, doing Reed's Direct is a good idea. Easy quick approach, and quick reality-check of your ability with local rock style and ratings. If you miscalculated, you can spend half a day here and feel a bit demoralized. Or if you're self-assessment is accurate, you can blast this pretty quickly (2 of the 3 pitches at least), and skip the OW if that's not your thing, but maybe still do the tunnel-through and up the other side to summit the formation.
Royal arches is technically easy (and easy to dismiss because of that), but it is a classic and satisfying Yosemite experience that you will cherish. Not so much for bragging rights, but for pure enjoyment of movement and views, it's hard to beat as a first-timer to the valley. That slick 5.6 chimney right off the ground can make you go "huh" for a few minutes too if you haven't practiced that technique.
Tuolumne is absolutely beautiful too. But the valley is the valley, and if you only have a few days you have to hit it. Just plan your itinerary to avoid being on the loop road during all normal business hours.
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sheepdog
Trad climber
just over the hill
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My favorite comment from Sally's guide came from the Crest Jewell description: "Over rated and over bolted, what could be better?"
Having said that, if you're considering that route or any other south facing longish route (Royal Arches) in August don't underestimate the water you'll need.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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If you are going to the Reed's Pinnacle area as has been suggested you can easily set up two top ropes that will give you a reality check about Yosemite cracks....Chingando 5.10a wide and Five and Dime 5.10d thin hands.
You can then continue down the road and top rope Generator Crack for some awesom wide crack training.
After that regimen a beer will be well earned.
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ecflau
Gym climber
CA
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For me...
My favorite moderate route in Yosemite is easily East Buttress of Middle Cathedral. Fun moderate climbing, some fun moderate pitches, right across the street from El Cap all day long. If El Cap wasn't across the street, Middle Cathedral would be quite a prominent formation for any climber.
For cooler temps, OZ (link it with On the Lamb! some do Hobbit Book, I have not yet), Crescent Arch and Third Piller Dana are my 3 favourite in TM. Note that I underestimated Third Piller Dana and it was a lot more serious then I would have expected for a 5.10-.... great setting though. Cathedral and Matthes are awesome too, but more hiking and scenery then climbing.
I recently started cragging at Olhmsted in TM, Tideline and Lord Caffaine are 2 really fun (and stout for me) single pitch, both take great gear but had me gassed when I reached the anchors.
I didn't get to finish, and I was only following, but I had a blast on Beggers Buttress... I don't think it gets a lot of traffic, but it should.
Have a great time in Yosemite!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Don't underestimate the heat in Aug! Climb real early, take a siesta, then climb in the late evening. Unless you're doing something long and high. In the shade...
Great list upstream. Synapse Collapse, That was one great route--likely doesn't get done much now due to the rockfall that happened a few years ago.
No matter what, plan some time in the Yo. High Country. Listen to Clint...
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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That list by Sally Moser is amazingly good!
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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sheepdog--I totally resemble your list
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Yes too hot in the Valley. Try The Bachar-Yerian in Tuolumne. A classic.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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do Generator Crack first
LOL.......Don't
My recommendation is to enjoy yourself. It's really easy to get overwhelmed and think you're missing out on the "good" stuff. Just enjoy being in such an amazing place. Get climbing in of course, but let the place overwhelm you in a good way...if any of that makes sense.
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jmacrosoft
Sport climber
Atlanta, GA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2015 - 11:58am PT
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Hey guys! Headed out tomorrow AM to the Valley. Thanks so much for all the feedback and recommendations. Super stoked for this truly spiritual experience. We will be hitting up Snake Dike (both of our first Trad Leads), and then nut cracker the next day if possible. Thanks again!
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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We will be hitting up Snake Dike (both of our first Trad Leads)
I hope you aren't serious or really like adventure.
Snake Dike is easy as far as climbing difficulty, but a challenge in terms of logistics, time, and exposure.
I got stuck behind a slow party on SD one time. East coasters not used to the exposure. They were still belaying on the slabs above the 8th pitch when everyone else was walking to the top.
Snake dike is 8 pitches. You should be able to have both climbers climb, clean, and prepare for the next pitch for an easy climb like this in under 1/2 hour before taking on an 8 pitch climb. If you waste 15 minutes at each belay, which beginners often do, that adds 2 HOURS to the climb. And you'll clog up a very popular climb.
Again it's not difficulties, it's logistics and efficiency. You should have some practice on multipitch before taking on an 8 pitch climb with a 4 hour approach and a 4 hour descent. There's no way in hell you'll do nutcracker the next day unless you are in awesome shape.
Do Munginella 3 pitches, or After 6 5 pitches first. Get used to Yosemite granite. Get your efficiency dialed in first. Then do Snake Dike the next day.
You'll also need to get used to finding the approaches. After 6 is a no brainer, but Munginella will help develop your trail/approach finding. Expect to make a wrong turn or two on the way to Snake Dike and have to back track and waste some time. Read all the beta you can on the approach. Snake Dike is an awesome climb, one of the best in the world for it's grade, but a terrible idea for a first trad climb, unless you are a prodigy. If you can climb Munginella in 1.5 hours or After 6 in 2.5 hours you'll be ready for snake dike.
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CCT
Trad climber
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Seconding The Fet. In general, I would not suggest Snake Dike as a first trad lead. First, it's not really trad. Second, there are easy but high consequences route-finding decisions.
One party I know accidentally climbed Deuceldike when trying to find Snake Dike. From the story, they are lucky to be alive. I believe it involved unprotected simulclimbing on 5.9 friction near the top when they got completely off route.
Another time, a follower of mine didn't manage to traverse left to the correct dike at the right time (how that happened, I have no idea). She took a lot of toprope friction falls before figuring it out. That would have been unpleasant as a leader.
Munginella, After Six, or even Nutcracker are much better warm-ups. If you are looking for something long, Royal Arches is classic.
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MikeL
Social climber
Seattle, WA
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Take it easy. Yosemite can throw stuff at you that will really surprise you.
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Rockin' Gal
Trad climber
Boulder
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Sheepdog/John, I can't believe you still have that list. What is it, 30 years old? Too funny to see it as I was paging through the post. I'm going to have to copy it and print it out! Don't forget about Sally's Guide to Tuolumne. Now that I have a copy of.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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You might want to consider starting out with short cragging routes to get used to the style of climbing.
Snake Dike has fantastic posistion and it's on Half Dome but the climbing (I use that term advisidly) is boring.
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Agree with the comments above. Snake Hike is a looong day out and if it's your first visit you may want to leave it until next time or maybe your last day. I'd recommend Bishop's Terrace at Church Bowl. As said above if you want a long day out then Royal Arches might be a better option.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID or the fricken Bakken, variously
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Can't believe Sally's bad mouthing Quicksilver.
What a puss
😃 Quicksilver isn't a route I'd suggest for a primer. That thing REQUIRES technique, man. Flail & be terrified. Hit it up when you Valley technique is more honed.It IS on the cool side, though...
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skitch
Gym climber
Bend Or
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Go big or sit by the river and eat It's Its!!!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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You should think about the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral. Ten pitches directly across from the Capitan. It take a full day but it's worth it.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Yosemite requires an adjustment period.....tread lightly at first. You can always step on the throttle when it suits you.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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I hope you...really like adventure.
If someone's coming all the way from Georgia to The Valley I assume they're looking for adventure. And Snake Dike's great for that-long, but scenic approach, stunning setting, iconic rock, historic route, exposed and runout but secure climbing, gawking tourons greeting you at the top, don't need a lot of gear...
BUT, it will be a helluva long day, and you'll want a rest the next day. A soak in the river staring up at a waterfall will be good for tired feet to recover.
I say get on it!
Edit: Plus with the info that's available on SD you can customize the adventure level so that it's appropriate for your experience and desire.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID or the fricken Bakken, variously
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You get an It's It once you've done at least one route..........NOT BEFORE. It's more satisfying that way.
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