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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 1, 2015 - 10:12am PT
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Please only post here if you are at least 70 years old. I thought it might be interesting to find out about rock climbers out there who are at least 70 and are climbing. I am and I live near Sacramento and get out very often mostly doing sport climbing these days. I know of 3 (and there are more that I hope will post here) who meet the 70+ requirement, one lives near Bishop, one lives in Reno and one lives in Ouray. I have no idea why we are motivated to climb when most of my peers are fat, out of shape and not doing much except channel surfing. I guess some things that provide that motivation for me are: I have always been concerned about staying in shape, keeping busy with outdoor pursuits (or building things) and intrigued by the mountains etc. Just thought the few of us could encourage each other. I know there are also many 70+ folks that enjoy activities other than climbing and I don't want to dis them but my biggest activity is climbing so I wanted to concentrate on that.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Discrimination everywhere. Hope to make the climbing at 70 bracket in 20 years.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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I'm 71.5, still climbing, usually trad when I'm outdoors because that's what's most accessible to me.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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I have no idea why I am still motivated to climb when most of my peers are fat, out of shape and not doing much except channel surfing.
could it be that most of your peers are fat, out of shape and not doing much except channel surfing?
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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78.5 now and I climbed up until shoulder arthritis and questionable inner-ear balance made climbing (all solo) too risky - age 74. I chose not to continue if it meant being put on a top rope and jollied along by youngsters. But then I had a fall-back in bodyweight exercises that I have done since my days as a gymnast 60 years ago. Puttering Around
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Ropeboy
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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I was climbing last year at seventy because I was still thrilled to be up on moderate multi pitch routes and enjoyed being "up there." I did not mind following young rope guns because my strength and tolerance for risk sure isn't what it used to be. Many of my friends can no longer climb because of old age and the physical gifts that come with it so I feel I have been lucky. This year I had a serious illness and may not climb again. If that is true I still think I had a good ride.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Just back home from checking out a new area at 10,000 ft. on the Grand Mesa. Sandbag ratings made me feel like I was 2,000 miles back East in the Gunks climbing with another +70 year old who just checked in.
Rather than mentioning "still climbing" we gentleman should be talking about "what" we are climbing. When it comes to food and climbing I'm an opportunivoire.....put it in front of me and I'll try to take a bite out of it. Hopefully, my bite and stomach, for food and climbing, are still in alignment.
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2015 - 03:20pm PT
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Jim D: If you notice I purposely left out the word "still" in my original post. (by the way, you are the one from Ouray I was referring to). I don't think life is what we have done but what we will do. John G: Thanks for sharing that video. What an inspiration. I forgot to mention my age, I'm just a babe compared to some of you go getters, will be 71 this month. Occasionally getting an onsite on a 11a sport route. Putting up a bunch of new routes in an area around Tahoe we are developing. I have no health issues.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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I hope Cosmic shows up in a clown suit for my 70th...Crotchless clown suit that is...
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Hard Rock
Trad climber
Montana
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I'm 70 with my mileage (63 as far as the government is concerned). Since I only have 18 years with my Forest Service employment (3 years as a student when you got full benefits) and 4 years (full time) of university employment. When my friends went to the office on Monday to rest - I had to continue to bike, ski and climb. That is why I say my life is harder than anybody else. Anyway, I still climb because I have all this equipment and don't know what else to do. Just did a mountain bike trip from Durango to Moab and was at the Lander Climber festival before that.
I do have the advantage of being a life style auditor having started my business in 1985. That knowledge has help me since I retired. The money will also help as soon as I get my first client.
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jstan
climber
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I meet the age criteria, handily. I have a few words for the youngsters here.
In old age you have something you never had before.
Time.
You are going nowhere so there is no longer any hurry. This evening I was sitting outside and heard an odd noise. My nearest neighbor, a twelve inch desert tortoise, came walking up. I believe in sign language so I signaled he should bear right to avoid a step. Promptly moved right. I signaled for him to move left to avoid more steps but he came right up to me. He showed he did not fear me. So that I would not risk being bitten I moved back a little, thus telling him I respected his abilities. Eventually he went left but circled back toward the house at a lower level. I went into the frig and got two handfuls of Romanian lettuce and a container of water. He ate all the lettuce and licked the plate but did not touch the water. Probably had never seen liquid water. After the lettuce he made a sound. Talking to me I expect.
Not everyday you make a new friend.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nice John.....tortoise as metaphor. Seems that the club has just about all checked in. Kind of lonely at the top of the pyramid.
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11worth
Trad climber
Leavenworth & Greenwater WA
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I will be 75 this coming Friday. I started climbing in 1958.
I live in Leavenworth and climb for a few hours 5 to 6 days a week. I do a lot of top rope soloing as most people around here do not have as much time for climbing as I do. I also enjoy putting up new routes as we have a lot of unclimbed rock around here. Yesterday I started putting up a new route in Icicle canyon. It is a perfect hand crack on a vertical wall that finishes up on a with a face climb. I am headed out the door now to do some cleaning on the route and will need to place a couple of bolts to protect the final 30 feet of face climbing.
I have been on two road trips this year. One to City of Rocks and one to Tuolumne Meadows. Nothing like a good road trip!
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Yeti
Trad climber
Ketchum, Idaho
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I'll be 77 in 2 months and climb as much as possible. Though the grade level has diminished, I find that by staying within my limits climbing is even more enjoyable than in other days. In addition to King Donini we should not forget Herman Goellner, perhaps the best sport climber of his age on the rocks. I like the Sartre quote, "Freedom is what you do with what's been done to you."
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Ron Hermanson
Trad climber
California
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I am 70 and still climb. If you would like to meet a group of old guys and girls that climb come down to Iron works on Tuesdays and Thursdays in Berkeley from 9am to 1pm and you will meet a couple of guys that are 80+ along with the rest of the group. The group works out and climbs together at the gym and also does day trips for outdoor climbs.
Come and join us.
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Rad! Sorry,had to say it.
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Never did rock climb very well, I am more of a mountaineer. But I still lead 5.6 and follow 5.8. I have 1650' feet of rope hanging and I am replacing the bolts I can reach on several routes. Pacemaker and Jolly Roger are the present project, just the stuff below the top of The Heart. Working solo but I did use a friends fixed ropes to hang mine.
O yea, I will be 71 next month.
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whoops
climber
paradise, ca
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I'm taking license here because I'm 66, not 70. But the truth is, those four years will go by in what seems like a couple of months. I'm sure John won't mind, don't know about the rest of you.
John is one of my climbing partners, has been for many years. He is also my mentor and hero. It will be a dark day indeed if John gives up the chalk bag.
I think old climbers are exceptional human beings. The ability to access passion seems to disappear for most people but older climbers don't seem to lose a step. Sure older climbers lose strength and endurance but all the reasons they started climbing: the physical, mental and spiritual aspects seem to remain intact. I personally can't imagine life without the camaraderie, laughter and the astonishing places we get to visit.
There is still much to see and much to do. When my time comes I'm not going to ask for a second chance, I'm going to ask for a second wind.
"It's not the years in the life, it's the life in the years". Abraham Lincoln.
Brad
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2015 - 03:14pm PT
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Thanks Brad. When are the Women going to report in? Yeti: Herman is one of the 3 hero's of mine I mentioned in my original post. Got a buddy who has an airplane and we are headed to the East Side of the Sierra tomorrow morning for 2 days of climbing. With his new plane it will take us all of 45 minutes to get from Sacramento to Bishop. Life is good. When I was in France a year ago, I met a fellow that said his dad was in his 70's and climbing something like 8b or 8c. Does anyone know who he is? He was either French or Spanish.
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MP
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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You all are so inspiring, thanks.
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frog (the real frog)
Trad climber
San Diego
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73 in September ... mostly gym climbing 2 -3 nights a week at Mesa Rim ... great gym in San Diego with 53 foot walls (and another about to open) ... will get to try some easy stuff again at Facelift this year ... always use Jam Crack and Lazy Bum as bench marks ... didn't start climbing till my 50th year, so got a lot of catching up to do ...
frog
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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73
Placed 9 bolts [hammer drill] and an anchor today. I usually climb with a couple of other retired OGs.
I think we should introduce a new term "DOG", for Distinguished OG!!
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Almost there at 69, but I don't want to rush it.
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Yo.. I am 71 and by now have a shoulder that needs to be replaced, so the docs tell me, but from what I hear those replacements are not so good and the recovery time is very long... arthritis in the hands too... I haven't climbed in a few years now but as I have aged I have found a peace and personal satisfaction that was lacking in my younger days. I would climb if I could but for me it is no longer important. I have done other things to fill the gap left from not climbing and those are just as rewarding as climbing was... I stay in touch with the sport through my photography and writing, among other interests... so if you are still out there climbing then good for you... you should do what you feel is right for you and not feel pressured to do anything that isn't. Now I only do what I want to do... that is one of the great rewards of retirement... it is all on you!!
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Gunkswest
climber
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In the background are a 68 year old and a 55 year old with another 55 year old behind the camera. 194 years of climbing experience in the party. House Calls never stood a chance!
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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I am 71 and by now have a shoulder that needs to be replaced, so the docs tell me, but from what I hear those replacements are not so good and the recovery time is very long
I ruined my shoulders 55 years ago working the still rings but it only caught up to me about 10 years ago. The surgeon presented three options: shoulder replacement (no more gymnastics stuff at all, ever - including difficult climbing), resurfacing (he said sometimes the person is left with a lingering ache - I declined), and doing nothing. I chose the last.
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OnsightOrGoHome
Trad climber
Fair Oaks
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After nearly forty years climbing with my dad, he's still reaching the peaks. Here he is two years ago, at age 78, atop Cathedral Peak in Tuolumne with my younger brother.
And last year on a wall in Yosemite.
I think I'll call 'em, summer's winding down! Get on it!
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Ron Hermanson
Trad climber
California
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I have been using a slack line to help with balance. It is fun and it works. Go slow and then you will be thinking you could to some Dean potter moves on the line,he was a master.. Try it you will like it.
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2015 - 09:12am PT
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John R again (OP) Just got back from a 2 day trip to the Sierra East Side with Chuck and his Lancair airplane. Pine Creek the first day and yesterday we were at Patricia bowl at 4pm and I was at my house in Elk Grove (near Sacramento) by 8pm. That included a stop at in-n-out-burger (that's the west coast version of McDonalds). Airplanes make travel fast. Wish I could afford one. onsightorgohome's dad and George Hurley we see pictures of you herein at age 80 on top of some big features. Keep it up. I gota get some exercise tomorrow (today is my daughter's birthday so big celebrations are in order) so I think I'll go out and mountain bike South lake Tahoe doing Sidewinder, Armstrong Connector and Armstrong Pass bike trails. I don't go very fast uphill (it's over 2500 vertical) but go too fast downhill. Gone over my handlebars too many times. 6 stitches under my eye and stitches in my nuts once (hit the goose neck). Broken ribs twice. Mountain Biking is more dangerous than rock climbing. The problem is the faster you go downhill the funner it is. I will try to slow down or next time I'll probably kill myself.
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David Lewis
Trad climber
North Conway,New Hampshire
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George Hurley leading Widow's Walk Frankenstein NH 3/13/2015.
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Aug 26, 2015 - 11:37pm PT
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73...still climbing, often solo or with one of my partners
also flying, boating, commercial diving, SAR, volunteer fireman, and raising a poultry flock in the woods
this summer drove solo across the country and back to NJ for two weeks in the woods with Tom Brown Jr's Tracker School...Apache training all day and all night exercises in the woods and swamps with no lights
then drove up into BC islands to teach classes on tracking, awareness and wilderness survival with one of my climbing partners who is also my age and quite fit, Gifford Pinchot III http://www.pinchot.com/perspective/
drove a moving van back and forth between CA and WA several times this summer, loading and unloading...starting another round trip tomorrow...
generally just retired and loafing...
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Aug 27, 2015 - 05:45am PT
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The lesson is stay off the couch (except resting after a good day out).
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smith curry
climber
nashville,TN
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Aug 27, 2015 - 06:33am PT
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Thanks for all the inspiration guys!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 27, 2015 - 06:59am PT
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AP....the couch is the key. You need to get off of it and go out and get things done, BUT....you also need to take complete rest days where you rarely budge from it.
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2015 - 08:53am PT
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I am sure glad some of you "old" guys post using your real name. Most of the people that post on SuperTopo have a handle which doesn't give any light as to who they are. I'm sure I would know or at least know of the reputation of some of the posters if I knew who they were. Whenever I somehow get a connection of a handle and a name I write it down so I can use it in the future. Wish there was a list of handle/real names.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Aug 27, 2015 - 09:05am PT
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Your real name is johnr9q?
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jstan
climber
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Aug 27, 2015 - 09:39am PT
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That's a memorable name.
Saturday we had the timed grabber game at the Community Center. The father of one young lady said to his daughter, "C'mon! We're going." She replied, "DAD! If I can cut one second off my time I can win!" I tried to console her telling her we would be back in October. She did not buy it. She wanted to win NOW. Some how we have to scale this up for the Yucca Valley club with hundreds of kids. That will be hard.
Then Wednesday we had "Scrubbing 62". We cleared a full contiguous mile along the highway. About 35 acres.
Hectic week. But the desert is changing.
Facelift is almost here!
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Guck
Trad climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Aug 27, 2015 - 11:07am PT
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Not quite there, and in no rush. An inspiration for me is Hermann Gollner from Austria, who still climbs 5.13 in his seventies (check Rock and Ice Fall 2014 issue), along with Jorge Urioste (although not at the same technical level).
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John in Bishop
climber
United States
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Aug 27, 2015 - 11:40am PT
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I'll be 72 in November. Annie and I are enjoying our place on the Caribbean through the middle of Sept., then we will be back at it on the beautiful East Side of the Sierras. Annie, who is 70 in five months, will be looking forward to a lower back operation. She is looking forward to getting her life back and rejoining our climbing gang. I will be continuing enjoying the hell out of projecting then red or pink pointing climbs at and over my limits. I have had successful operations on both of my shoulders and I'm currently taking medication for lower back pain that allows me to climb two and three days a week. yay! It's very much fun for me to hear from you older guys. Keep on writing in.
Climber John in Bishop.
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2015 - 07:03pm PT
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LA (John) you are one of the heros I mentioned in my initial post when I started this thread. Thanks for sharing. Talked to some of your buddies at Mustache wall the other day and they said you had recently redpointed some badass climb. I'll be sending good vibes to Annie on her future back surgery. You guys are both an inspiration to me
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2015 - 07:30pm PT
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rgold. I guess you got me on that one. But I'll make amends with full disclosure: (WARNING - the following is very boring and I would suggest you not read it) "Real" Name: John Robinson (Hence johnr9q) Elk Grove, California, Birthday Aug 30, 1944 (Opps, looks like I have a birthday coming up) WW2 vet (or was that Vietnam, Can't recall) Pretty much a sport climber. Occasionally get up an 11a. Used to do a lot of Trad but scares me too much these days and don't want my heart to quit. Health issues: None (I do take statins for cholesterol - before statins mine was total 230, LDL 120, HDL 65. This isn't too bad but my cardiologist said he could would like to see it better and most cardiologists are on statins cause they are a wonder drug. Now it is Total 160, LDL 80, HDL 65). My dad had bypass surgery when he was 58 so don't want to follow in his foot steps. Blood pressure is usually on the low side and pulse rate is good. I also love mountain biking and am taking a hang gliding lesson on the 12th of Sep. (I've always admired birds) Any more disclosures anyone wants and I'll reveal more. Oh yes, been with the same woman for 45 great years. Two daughters that adore me and I them. 5 grandkids. I love to build things like houses and campers etc
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Aug 27, 2015 - 07:48pm PT
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Your disclosure is refreshing, John.
Your turn, High Fructose Corn Syrup.
(don't hold your breath)
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2016 - 08:55am PT
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I know it's not "politically correct" to play the numbers game but, since this is my thread, I will. And also, since it's my thread, my emphasis is on sport climbing levels. We had three of my heros report in (see my original post) and 2 of the three are leading right at 5.13a. Reno/Rifle Herman and Bishop John. John is 72 and Herman is also around 72. Can anyone beat that? (I can't even get close)
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MattB
Trad climber
Tucson
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Holy f7k!!
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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I have mentioned John Fantini in other posts. He is an Aussie who lives in Penticton much of the year and climbs a lot at Skaha. He redpointed his first 5.13 while in his sixties,is probably 70 or 71 now and still climbs 5.12. He hikes 5.11. Makes it look like he is climbing a ladder
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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This has gone on long enough that now I'm 72, with 58 years of climbing logged. Unlike most of the other old folks mentioned, I'm still working full-time, at a job with a 140 mile round-trip commute, so I don't get anything like the kind of time for conditioning and actual climbing that most people my age have. And I don't post with my real name (although it isn't hard to figure out and certainly many people here know it) just to keep a little separation between work and recreation.
I must say I'm in awe of folks who can climb 5.12 or harder at my age, partially because 5.12 trad was the absolute best I ever managed, and not much of that. Although I don't have any ongoing health issues, my hand endurance has steadily declined over the last 5-10 years, making steep hard continuous climbing without rest opportunities harder and harder for me. I do what I can and enjoy it, and am continually experimenting with conditioning protocols to increase hand endurance (but nothing has really had much effect).
I plan to retire at 75 and maybe then I can see if a more full-time conditioning regimen will give me back some of that hanging-on ability! But if not, there's plenty to do at the sub-5.10 trad level I can still manage, so I hope to soldier on.
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2016 - 09:55am PT
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So here are the winners so far. (if an item is in a parenthesis, it is approximate - maybe someone can give me the proper info) I won't use full names unless they have be previously disclosed or I have permission.
John From Bishop (5.13a) age 72
Hermann Gollner 5.13a (age 72)
John Fantini (5.12) (age 70)
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2016 - 07:48am PT
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As I mentioned in an earlier post I want to do the Triple in Tuolumne free solo (Tenaya, Matthes Crest and Cathedral Peak) and I have it scheduled for July 10. For a warm up, I just did Whitney East Face in a day, free solo, alone. Never saw anyone else in the North Fork Drainage. I was going to come down the Mountaineers route but it looked like it had too much snow so came down the trail instead. It was a long day and I was tired at the end. (I had forgotten how scary and exposed the Fresh Air Traverse and the Tower Traverse are)
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2016 - 07:20pm PT
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I turned the triple into the double. I fell on my way from Matthes Crest to Cathedral. Did a summersault and landed on my back. Knocked the wind out of me and out of my sails. Shortly thereafter started vomiting and couldn't hold any water down. Probably didn't get in good enough shape to do all three. I guess sport climbing isn't adequate to prepare for an adventure like that. I read tales of Donini doing long days in the mountains. If I did what he does (based on my previous experience of doing Matthes Crest, East Face of Whitney and attempting the triple all of which, I vomited and didn't feel well and couldn't hold water down) I'd be vomiting my guts out. Maybe some of the problem is altitude, dehydration and not being in proper shape. But anyway, this thread isn't turning out the way I had hoped with me going on about my issues.
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Jul 26, 2016 - 09:29pm PT
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Don't apologize. The debilitation curve gets steeper and steeper with age (from first-hand experience!).
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Jul 27, 2016 - 12:03am PT
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Gnarly!
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Jul 27, 2016 - 06:10am PT
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OMG you f'ing old farts. 5.10, 5.11, 5.12, 5.13! F! I'm 53 and really really really happy to climb 5.9. If I can send Jackie (Gunks 5.4+++) on a tight TR at 70 I'll be living large.
I do have a question: How do you fit a harness over those Depends?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 27, 2016 - 07:44am PT
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You're doing the "Seventies is better then Heaven" club proud! I have an advantage over many living at 7,700 ft. In the San Juan Mountains. I like to do fast mountain hikes several days a week. Shorter days I do a minimum of 3,000 vertical, longer days are 5,000 plus. These hikes nearly always take me to 13,000 plus feet.
I hike at a pace that is uncomfortable but manageable and try to hit certain time objectives. The trails in the San Juans are steep.....some averaging over 1,000 vertical feet per mile. In National Parks like the Tetons trails generally aveage only about 650 vertical feet per mile and I can easily average three miles per hour at altitude for multiple miles on those trails going uphill. I generally jog the downhill sections.
About once a week I like to do longish, off trail, enchainments of multiple 13ers which are in abundance where I live. On these hikes I rarely see another human and the terrain is often sketchy enough to require great care.
The bottom line is to keep the engine tuned with regular exercise that PUSHES you. If what you do is comfortable enough to engage in conversation while you are doing it....you are not doing enough.
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2016 - 12:33pm PT
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If I did as Donini does (live at 7700' and do major mountain hikes a couple of times a week) I would do better at Whitney and Matthes Crest etc. For me to do that would be difficult. I live at sea level and major mountains are distant. I think I will concentrate on sport climbing which is much more convenient for me and when I want to do a mountain excursion I will need to spend a month or so getting in shape. Thanks for the heads up Jim. I wish I could figure out how to avoid dehydration. I force myself to drink on these excursions but usually end up drinking and vomiting what I drank. (probably conditioning?)
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Jul 29, 2016 - 01:00pm PT
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Hi, For a variety of reasons (mostly computer issues) I haven't been on here for a while, but briefly have access to a non-work, functioning computer, did some lurking, saw this thread and decided to check in. I turned 71 a few days ago and am still climbing as much as I can---not well, but try to pack in alot in a day. Like my old friend rgold I am still working full time but am fortunate enough to have a selection of small but good quality crags nearby and a good gym literally on my daily commute so am able to maintain a good level of activity. I'm dealing with a variety of aches and pains and diminishing strength (not that I ever had that much) but, so far, nothing that has stopped me for long and, more significantly, have bounced back from some more serious issues from a few years ago. I also try to get in some road trips--was in El Chorro in Jan, the Red River in April. I'm in Nova Scotia now--a family trip but have hit the little bouldering gym near my hotal a couple of times to keep my hand in. You all inspire me and I hope to keep going as long as I am able. We have a 90+ (Ed Daniels) around here who still climbs, so he gives me something to aspire to.
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Jul 29, 2016 - 08:39pm PT
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Here's a comment that may prove relevant for some of you as you age another eight to ten years beyond the benchmark 70: After tremendous pain due to a badly degenerate lower spine in October I was told to never do upper body exercises again. So I didn't, for seven months. Then in May another surgeon told me he didn't see why I shouldn't do them, so I decided to try to regain a little strength - all of which I had lost. At first all I could do was hang momentarily with no strength to pull up. I was 79.3 years of age. Could I ever regain strength to do a pull-up, much less anything beyond that? Well, now I am able to pop several pull-ups fairly easily plus a tad more. So, yes, even at this advanced age it is possible to gain or regain upper body strength, working slowly and carefully with several days between workouts.
FWIW
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2016 - 08:51pm PT
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Thanks jgill, moosedrool and Donini. Those are the kind of posts I was hoping for, encouragement and ideas to keep it up.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Jul 29, 2016 - 11:11pm PT
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John, so glad to hear you've been able to return to the kinds of activities you have enjoyed for most of your life. Best wishes for continued progress!
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Hey John, a great inspirational thread. Got to keep moving to keep up with some of these old guys, here's Dick Dorworth at 78 on Spare Rib in the Gallatin Canyon MT a few weeks ago:
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greyghost
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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I'll be 70 on new years eve. Climbing at Mt.Charleston, NV and opening new lines in the 9+ category. I don't climb as bold or as hard as I did 20 years ago but I still relish it. Long as the health holds I am climbing. Now I take the time to rest, enjoy the surroundings and even meditate at times.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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I turned 70 a few weeks ago, and a few days ago, I managed to climb 4 pitches of 5.10 trad.-mostly crack climbing. I'm hoping to hike up the Grand Teton, car to car in a day, next week, depending on weather.
I have many issues with arthritis which cut down on the "fun" aspect, but still don't want to turn into a coach potato.
Here is a picture of Jim Donini, taken by TWP, a few years ago, after we did
a 12 pitch route in the Wind Rivers. Jim led the crux pitch, which he felt was 5.10D. I would not disagree!
Jim led it in fine style, and I was impressed.
Rgold has also done this route, which was re-named by Jim and I, "No Picnic for Old Men". I did the 1st ascent with John Bouchard back in 1972, and we never named it.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Looking over to "No Picnic for Old Men."
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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sik looking line
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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^^^Ha! When you think of the average American over 70 it would be better named "No Picnic for Most Men", good work!
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zBrown
Ice climber
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Jul 31, 2017 - 10:05am PT
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Sam Shepard, the Pulitzer Prize-winning author of plays, screenplays, stories and memoirs, whose rugged good looks and laconic style made for a memorable screen presence as an actor, has died. He was 73.
I'm > 70. Keep forgetting how to find this thread. This post will hel[p.
What's compelling to me is how many folks just over 70 are dying already.
BTW,
congrats on getting back into action jgill
nice photo of Yeti upstream
and Yeti nice photo of McKinney you put up on the story page
By my calculation Steve would be about 64 now. Just think how much was lost.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 31, 2017 - 10:31am PT
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Turn 65 next month and still climbing reasonably hard and doing FAs.
I'm with jogill - damned if I'm going to be humored and "jollied along" by a bunch of whippersnappers (any more than I already am)...
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Alan Babcock
Sport climber
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
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May 12, 2019 - 08:58am PT
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I just found 70 years old plus. I turned 70 last November, and I celebrated, with my 30 something climbing partners, by doing a multi pitch climb at Seneca Rocks. At the beginning of the second pitch, the lead climber fell on me because his protection didn't hold. I was using a Grigri so we didn't fall to the ground, but, as I learned when I returned home, I suffered a separated shoulder. I chose an easy route (Old Man's Route, 5.2/5.3), and I made it to the summit climbing with one arm. I love climbing inside and out, and I don't plan on stopping any time soon. I started climbing 4 years ago, so my climbing is still improving. Last Friday, I climbed my first two 5.9- climbs in the gym. I struggle with 5.8 climbs outside because I have trouble finding the holds, and I tire. My partners help me by giving me special belays. I built a mini gym (hangboard, pull up bar, stepper, and weights) in my basement.
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throwpie
Trad climber
Berkeley
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May 12, 2019 - 10:08am PT
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68 here, so...close to 70
Still windsurfing on the SF bay...30mph puffs yesterday...no problem. Sore but still functioning quite well. Got dragged to the Iron Works gym by an old friend, joined and found that after not climbing for many years, I can still crank it pretty good. Getting stronger by the session and can do a few 5.11 routes. Not sure what a 5.11 gym route is in the real world. I certainly wasn't climbing 5.11 Yosemite routes in my youth. (maybe it was the EBs and swami belt...yeah right) Anyway...I'm gonna run it out as long as I can. Steep hikes in the Berkeley hills three days a week help a lot I'm sure. All the things I've loved doing my whole life...climbing, hiking, surfing and windsurfing have involved physical.effort. I'm sure that makes a difference now.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 12, 2019 - 10:16am PT
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Pete Bishop,formerly a SoCal guy, lives in Austin, Texas. He's over 70, is sporting a knee and a shoulder replacement, and is a fixture in the local climbing community there. He cranks out 5.12 sport climbs on the steep limestone walls there.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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May 12, 2019 - 10:43am PT
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I was 81 when this thread was introduced. Don't know how I missed it back in 2015.
In was still leading up to 5.8 then and following 5.9 with a pacemaker installed. In 2016 had single bypass surgery. That really slowed me down.
Now I'm 86. I know I can still lead 5.7 but my problem is getting to the base. My heart doesn't allow for much aerobic activity and hiking any distance requires too many rest stops.
So now I ride an indoor bike for about 20 minutes a day, do about 3 sets of bicep curls and call it a day.
Maybe Kelsey will come by and ferry me to the rocks in the Alabama Hills. We can test my test my 5.7 contention.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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May 12, 2019 - 12:12pm PT
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I was 82 in February and doing fine until I overdid the exercises and damaged my left shoulder in March. I still do a few pull-ups, but pain takes the enjoyment out of it. I'm in the not for sissies crowd now! We pay the price for our younger exuberances, But that's life.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 12, 2019 - 03:15pm PT
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I hope I’m not kidding myself...I put together a climber’s camp on the Biafo Glacier in the Karakoram for this summer. Eight of us will try to do some damage to the virginity of an amazing array of peaks and granite towers.
The youngest participant is 25...the oldest, gulp, is your’s truly. I’ll celebrate my 76th birthday at 15,000 ft. or higher, if I’m not in basecamp.
I swore to my wife and I’m thinking of having the following words sculpted into solid marble...”after this, no more Himalayan climbing!”.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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May 12, 2019 - 05:06pm PT
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76 is good to go, Jim. Have fun!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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May 12, 2019 - 05:09pm PT
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And Jim, the second sentence will read, "Yeah Right." :)
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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May 12, 2019 - 06:14pm PT
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^^^ Ha, ha!
I'm now in the club and I got to climb today.
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zBrown
Ice climber
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May 12, 2019 - 06:49pm PT
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I agree with Throwpie
It's that fiscal effort alright that keeps us all going!
Both 72. The propeller hat? Ageless.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 12, 2019 - 07:19pm PT
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Yeah, I'm in the club, too. But instead of talking about me, here are a couple of stories about another old guy who once did a bit of climbing.
About 25 years ago, Allen Steck came up for his first visit to Squamish. He was 70. We'd worked together some, but this was our fist time climbing together. So over the four or five days he stayed with us, I took him on a tour of a few of the local classics. This included, on one day, a long, steep approach followed by a four-pitch climb that featured an off-width shallow half-drainpipe on the last pitch. Full-on nasty physical 10b. Okay, he didn't lead it, but neither did he flail or grovel, and there was a lot less blood dripping out of his hands at the top than out of mine. Changed my opinion about climbing and age. Or at least made me realize that there are some people who are a long way off the far end of the bell curve.
Fast forward a few years to a return visit, with us staying at his place in Berkeley. I'd never climbed at Indian Rock, so he took us on a tour. I don't remember everything about the place, but at one point we set up a toprope on one of Allen's favorites. Up he goes, floating the thing until suddenly he's flying.
Much cursing, then back on the rock and then flying again. Followed by "What the f*#k? I've climbed this a hundred times. What is going on?"
Then, after flying off on his third try, dangling on the end of the rope, he looked up at the hold he'd been trying for, then down at us and said, "Ah. I used to be taller."
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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May 13, 2019 - 12:21am PT
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hey there say, zbrown... wow, this is fun!
It's that fiscal effort alright that keeps us us all going!
Both 72. The propeller hat? Ageless.
good for you, both!!!
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TomKimbrough
Social climber
Salt Lake City
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May 13, 2019 - 06:58am PT
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I'm 80 and a half now. I led a 11a sport climb on my birthday last October. I'm still 15 pounds over my best weight and couldn't on-sight a 10c at the Alabama Hills last month. I hope get that extra weight off and give it another go in a few months.
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Peter Darmi
Trad climber
Kerhonkson, NY
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May 13, 2019 - 08:13am PT
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I'll be 71 in a few months, and though I'm not pulling as hard as I used to I still manage (Gunks) trad 10's and sport 11's.
Two secrets:
1. Rule #1 - Don't F*#k Up & Die https://youtu.be/LTyvHWWc9TM
2. Rule #2- Just don't stop!
That's me on the left two weeks ago 5/4/19 on top of Pontatoc (Formless Void, 5.9, 10pitches, 1,000ft)
Keep on truckin'!
-PD
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 13, 2019 - 08:43am PT
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WELCOME ABOARD SIR!
YOU'RE
(not the 'your' I KNOW THE DIFFERENCE!)...
IN MEETING THE QUALIFYING CRITERIA(I stand corrected)
{Ha! found it}& from the same time period that we climbed togetherLook at those shoes? yellow Asolos.
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Peter Darmi
Trad climber
Kerhonkson, NY
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May 13, 2019 - 12:38pm PT
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Close? Dude, I'm THERE! (71 this coming Dec.) ...and where'd you find that ancient photo?? I'd forgotten it existed! Yup, yellow Asolo's Hahah!
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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May 13, 2019 - 03:45pm PT
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I'd like a reservation. Starting May 9 2039 with a planned extended stay.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 13, 2019 - 03:51pm PT
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Flip Flop...before you know it you’ll have to start shaving.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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May 13, 2019 - 05:11pm PT
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Another question answered, another connection made, thanks to Gnome Ofthe Diabase. Usually goes the other way.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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May 14, 2019 - 04:36pm PT
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Peter Darmi,
The photo of you in the yellow Asolos was taken by one of the FA team of Welcome to the Gunks.
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frog (the real frog)
Gym climber
San Diego
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May 19, 2019 - 04:28pm PT
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Bump ... from my 77th year ... RA and pain in the right elbow really slows upper body strength workouts ... limited to couple times a week in the climbing gym ... peers don't climb and climbing buds don't like outdoors ... maybe at Face Lift this year with the grands ...
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