Meru Movie with Jimmy Chin, Conrad Anker & Renan Ozturk.

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Messages 1 - 51 of total 51 in this topic
MisterE

Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 25, 2015 - 04:48pm PT
This looks really good!

http://www.merufilm.com/
johnboy

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
Jul 25, 2015 - 05:51pm PT
Thanks for the link. It does look good and it'll be a blast to see the full movie when it comes out.
MisterE

Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2015 - 06:35pm PT
What a trio!

World class, all of them.

Looks gritty, too.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Jul 25, 2015 - 10:07pm PT
Jimmy's all over the place!

http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2015/07/27/pipsters

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
Shitalkqua, WA
Jul 25, 2015 - 11:08pm PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]Assorted Attention Seekers
onyourleft

climber
Smog Angeles
Jul 29, 2015 - 09:31am PT
I was fortunate enough to see this excellent film last evening at a screening in Culver City.
Afterwards, there was a Q & A session with Jimmy Chin, Jimmy's wife and producer of the film, Elizabeth Vasarhelyi, Conrad Anker, and Conrad's wife, Jenni.
Really compelling film with great visuals and gripping action.
The story isn't just about a climbing objective, it also reveals a great deal about the participants, Conrad, Jimmy, and Renan Ozturk.
It goes into limited release in the next couple of weeks.
Catch it on the big screen if you can.

Hummerchine

Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
Jul 30, 2015 - 06:06pm PT
Kick-Ass trailer!
Rieser

climber
SF, CA
Jul 31, 2015 - 09:32am PT
Tami I totally agree!! What's with that trailer? I think I saw the short a year ago and it felt like it was all about having the biggest stoke with your best friends... seems to have taken a dark turn what gives!? Hopefully the movie gets back to the fun part, too and its not all torture and loss...
Banks

Trad climber
Santa Monica, CA
Aug 14, 2015 - 10:53am PT
Bump for the LA crowd. Playing at The Nuart in West LA starting today. Q+A for the Saturday 7:30 show.
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
Aug 14, 2015 - 11:08am PT
I was at Conrad's Meru slideshow in Groveland a few years ago. I, along with PTPP, were lucky enough to be invited by Conrad to the Priest Station for beers and an "exclusive" viewing of video clips from their expedition. We were up until 1:30am on the patio drinking beer and talking about climbing. He was genuinely interested in our accomplishments as well. We then had breakfast in the morning with Conrad and his mother. Conrad is a genuinely nice guy and class act. I'm looking forward to this film.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Sep 16, 2015 - 03:30am PT
Best climbing movie i have ever seen. WOW!
I did notice some bolts up there.. Assumeing a power drill was too heavy and the batteries not happy with the cold temps? I do find it intersting how bolts usually get treated like climbings dirty little secret.. we will just pretend we don't notice them even though it's often a fairly dramatic part of the climb trying to get a hole drilled without going for the big ride.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 18, 2015 - 09:36pm PT
I'm just back from seeing it and I concur! Go see it! It's a at the regular movie theatre here in Moab!
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab or In What Time Zone Am I?
Sep 18, 2015 - 10:26pm PT
Totally awesome, except for chiropractor scene.

Susan

edit: Do you think that sound was a sound effect? It looked "Exocistish" his head was twisted so far.
Spiny Norman

Social climber
Boring, Oregon
Sep 18, 2015 - 11:37pm PT
^-- Yes to that. Only time I really flinched. Extremely well put together, though a few of the soundtrack songs really brought forth the bile.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 19, 2015 - 06:57am PT
Susan and I jumped in unison at.that chiropractic crunch. We'd just watched this guy break his neck, then that!!

Edit; I was thinking about it right after that sound, and I think it was, enhanced for dramatic effect!
Conrad

climber
Sep 20, 2015 - 06:24pm PT

This is the actual topo from the journal I kept on the climb.

@tradmanclimbs

6 1/4" spilt shank on aluminum Petzl hanger (on lead for protection)
16 bat hook holes drilled for BD Talon hook
6 3/8" belay bolts w/ Metolius Hangers
2 3/8" portaledge bolts for specific ledge hang w/ Metolius Hangers



All drilled by hand. When looked at through the prism of Yosemite - I'm cool with it. The next gen will dispatch with two bivies ~ all free.




Thanks all for the kind words regarding the film. Kudos to Jimmy, Renan, Chai and Bob for creating the story.
Flip Flop

climber
Earth Planet, Universe
Sep 20, 2015 - 06:27pm PT
You guys are bananas.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Sep 22, 2015 - 04:33pm PT
WOW. Thats wicked cool. It must have added to the stress when there was annother team up there knowing that you had placed some critical bolts that would make their chances of success much higher.
Texplorer

Trad climber
Sacramento
Sep 22, 2015 - 04:54pm PT
Have seen lots of movies and enjoyed how this one seemed to glide the fine line between sharing the true nature of the climb with all its risks but without sensationalizing the story.

Met Renan back in my first season in the creek and later the Valley (2002). He was quiet and stoic even back then but you could tell there was a passion there even then.

Great adventure and really captures the feeling and reasons I go to the mountains.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 22, 2015 - 05:01pm PT
And by the way Conrad, if you're still in the building, Holy F*#k! This is a long way from getting friend wires fixed on Bueno street in the eighties!
Tamara Robbins

climber
not a climber, just related...
Sep 22, 2015 - 10:19pm PT
I understand it's showing at the Main (only) Cinema Theater in Moab this week.... just an FYI for anyone in the area!
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
Sep 23, 2015 - 06:18am PT
Amazing climb, story and film, Conrad. 4 stars.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Sep 28, 2015 - 09:47am PT
This movie is awesome. And I love that in the credits, up high, its all climbers. Nobody from Hollywood was needed to make a movie for the theatre... which is maybe a first?
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Sep 28, 2015 - 10:07am PT
Damn...looks like the Cali showings have passed...anybody know if there are any So Cal scheduled screenings not listed on the movie's website?
ddriver

Trad climber
SLC, UT
Sep 28, 2015 - 12:29pm PT
Saw it over the weekend and thought it was super, all the way around. Well put together and entertaining. The quality of the on-route footage was really remarkable. Go see it.
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
Sep 28, 2015 - 12:44pm PT
I did a moto-roadtrip to Monterey (the closest theater to me) to see the movie. The movie delivered as expected. Fantastic!
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Sep 28, 2015 - 02:10pm PT
I saw this movie a few weeks ago at the Agelika theatre in Manhattan. I think is was a Sunday and there were about 50 people in the audience. As near as I could tell there were no climbers amongst them. This is about as many people in the audience of most pictures I see. Not bad.

The movie is very well made, in my opinion, and is focused on the human side of the story. The movie does not pull any punches, and, as such, shows the general selfishness of decisions to climb big mountains. A certain resignation permeates the film. This film's subtitle could be: "Great Skill, Tenacity, and Luck Times Three."


My three takeaways: 1. Snow is really dangerous. 2. Letting Renen return to the Meru paid off and made for great storytelling, but at the risk of everyone dying. 3. The scariest part is watching Renen doing successive deep knee bends with a kettlebell--I took Aleve for a full week.

5 stars.

By the way, Chris, there are some heavy weight nonclimbers involved in getting Meru made, including ELIZABETH CHAI VASARHELYI, who, according to the New Yorker article, suggested the human side of the story line. Chinn and Vasarhelyi married when they were working on it.

From the Meru website:

JIMMY CHIN
DIRECTOR, PRODUCER, CINEMATOGRAPHER

Jimmy Chin lives a life of art and adventure, combining a career as a photographer, documentary filmmaker and a 14-year veteran of The North Face Athlete Team. In the past decade, Chin has collaborated with, filmed and photographed some of the world’s most progressive athletes and explorers while participating in breakthrough expeditions around the planet. He has made notable first ascents in the Karakoram, traversed the Chang Tang Plateau in Tibet on foot and skied first descents in the Himalayas. He is one of the few people to ski Mount Everest from the summit. Chin shoots for a wide variety of commercial and editorial clients. His photography has graced the cover of National Geographic and garnered recognition from Photo District News, Communication Arts, the American Society of Magazine Editors and the Lowell Thomas Journalism Awards. Chin has shot and directed documentaries, television and commercial projects for The North Face, Pirelli, Apple, National Geographic, Working Title and RSA Films. As a professional athlete, he has been featured in National Geographic, Outside, People and Men’s Journal. He splits his time between New York City and Jackson Hole, Wyoming with his co-director and wife, Chai Vasarhelyi, and their daughter Marina.

ELIZABETH CHAI VASARHELYI
DIRECTOR, PRODUCER

Elizabeth “Chai” Vasarhelyi’s films as a director include Youssou N’Dour: I Bring What I Love (Oscilloscope, 2009), which premiered at the Telluride and Toronto Film Festivals; A Normal Life (Tribeca Film Festival, Best Documentary, 2003); Touba (SXSW, Special Jury Prize Best Cinematography, 2013) and the upcoming Incorruptible (2015). Vasarhelyi has participated in the Good Pitch and received grants from the Sundance Institute, the Ford Foundation, the Rockefeller Brothers Fund, Bertha Britdoc, the William and Mary Greve Foundation and the National Endowment of the Arts. She holds a B.A. in Comparative Literature from Princeton University and lives between New York City and Jackson Hole, Wyoming.

LITTLEMONSTERFILMS.COM

RENAN OZTURK
CINEMATOGRAPHER, ADDITIONAL EDITOR

Renan Ozturk is an expedition climber, filmmaker and landscape artist. His cutting edge first ascents, mountain murals and short films have taken him from the high Himalayas to the remote jungles of Burma. Ozturk has pushed the art of filmmaking in extreme locations in particular through his use of lightweight technology. His video “dispatches,” produced during expeditions, bring the adventure to a worldwide online audience in near real time. Through digital recognition and top film festival awards, Renan’s visual storytelling style is on the cutting edge of the outdoor industry.

BOB EISENHARDT, A.C.E.
EDITOR

Bob Eisenhardt is a three-time Emmy Award winner and Oscar nominee. With over 60 films to his credit, he has edited documentaries for Barbara Kopple, Maysles Films, Susan Froemke, Matt Tyrnauer, Marc Levin, David Grubin and Alex Gibney. Recent films include Wagner’s Dream, which received an Emmy nomination for editing, Valentino: The Last Emperor, Dixie Chicks: Shut Up & Sing, Living Emergency: Stories of Doctors Without Borders and Dancing in Jaffa. He is currently editing the HBO film Everything Is Copy on the life of Nora Ephron.

J. RALPH
COMPOSER

J. Ralph is an Academy Award nominated composer and producer from NYC whose music has sold more than 10 million records worldwide and reached the No.1 spot in over 22 countries. His career began with the signing to Atlantic Records as a recording artist and since then J. Ralph has written and produced the music for numerous Grammy Award winning artists, symphony orchestras, The United Nations, The President of The United States and more Oscar winning/nominated documentaries then any other composer in the history of the Academy Awards. Such films include Man On Wire, The Cove, Hell And Back Again, Chasing Ice, Finding Vivian Maier and Virunga. He is widely regarded for the original songs he writes and produces for these films such as the Oscar nominated “Before My Time” performed by Scarlett Johansson and Joshua Bell, “Hell & Back” performed by Willie Nelson, “We Will Not Go” performed by Youssou Ndour, Salif Keita & Fally Ipupa and “Until The End” performed by Liza Minnelli & Wynton Marsalis. J. Ralph is the only composer to win two consecutive A.I.C.P. awards. Several of Mr. Ralph’s works are included in the Museum of Modern Art’s permanent collection of film and media in New York City.

SHANNON ETHRIDGE
PRODUCER

Shannon Ethridge has worked in the entertainment industry as a producer of commercial and branded campaigns for almost 15 years. Her clients range from Fortune 500 companies to startups, and her content experiences scale from passionate social issues to risky outdoor pursuits. She embarked into the world of documentary filmmaking through this expansive network with the cause-related film Summit On The Summit with MTV.
Abend

Social climber
Sep 28, 2015 - 02:34pm PT
Apogee - the film is screening through 10/01 near UCI at

Edwards University Town Center 6
4245 Campus Drive
Irvine, CA 92612
(844) 462-7342

tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Sep 28, 2015 - 04:25pm PT
3. The scariest part is watching Renen doing successive deep knee bends with a kettlebell--I took Aleve for a full week.

Not to mention the chiropractor neck adjustment which damn near launched me out of my seat.
MisterE

Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2015 - 04:35pm PT
Thanks for posting the topo scan, Conrad - that is way cool.

If this doesn't make the Bishop/Mammoth Theaters, we are going to try and find it in LA on our next trip.
GibO

Trad climber
Breckenridge
Sep 29, 2015 - 09:57am PT
I was able to see this movie at the Breckenridge Film Festival.

I think it is probably the best climbing film I have seen.

I went to see it having already seen the "Sharks Fin" video on Outside Channel numerous times and having seen Conrad present a take on Meru at the North Face speaker series in Breck. The movie did a great job building the story far beyond my previous understanding.

The movie was great!
smith curry

climber
nashville,TN
Sep 29, 2015 - 10:31am PT
Best climbing film made.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Sep 29, 2015 - 05:37pm PT
We saw it in a really cool theater in Montepelier VT. AAAAAAAA+++++++++++++
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Sep 30, 2015 - 08:04am PT
Check out Elizabeth's film on Youssou Ndour. A very good perspective on one of the worlds great musicians and an interesting look at Islam.
HermitMaster

Social climber
my abode
Sep 30, 2015 - 08:14am PT
Gunkie

climber
Dec 7, 2015 - 09:00am PT
Great movie! Just watched it with my son on a flight from Houston to Philly on a tablet. The whole time I'm thinking I could climb that snow pitch, I could climb that ice section, I could climb that aid pitch, I could climb that free section.... until it really sinks in that you're at 20000', you're hauling a full wall kit on a very very long alpine route, the temps are not exactly a San Diego winter, probably have very little alcohol in tow, have the best combination of trench foot and frostbite, and are on the other side of the planet.

Yeah, I'll stick with the movie.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Dec 7, 2015 - 09:57am PT
Conrad, what's the deal with your jaw in the interview segments?

One of your cheeks looked like you had mumps.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Dec 7, 2015 - 11:00am PT
I agree with above comments, that this is the best movie about climbing I have ever seen.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Jan 3, 2016 - 03:50pm PT
Just saw it at the Laemmle Theater in Pasadena (only showed last night and this morning.) Fantastic and stunning.

When everyone had left the theater my friend and I still sat there in awed silence.

Renan Ozturk should be an inspiration to anyone who is trying to get back after physical problems. Sorry, inspiration is to weak a word.
Argon

climber
North Bay, CA
Jan 3, 2016 - 05:47pm PT
Agree - best movie I've seen in the past year. (But I haven't seen the new Star Wars movie yet.)
canyoncat

Social climber
SoCal
Jan 4, 2016 - 03:25pm PT
This was great on my flat screen in the living room via Netflix. I bet it's stellar on the big screen.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 25, 2016 - 07:33pm PT
it is playing on Showtime HD right now on Cox Cable.
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Feb 25, 2016 - 07:44pm PT
This film was one of the rare film DVD's I've ever bought. Truly amazing, and worth every cent.
Mark Force

Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
Feb 25, 2016 - 08:29pm PT
Really quite an amazing climbing film.

Thought it was interesting that Conrad Anker could have taken any ice tools up there he wanted and he had a set of BD Venoms in a longer length (55cm?) with leashes.
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Mar 21, 2016 - 08:46pm PT
Finally got to watch it. Perfect is about all I can say.
briham89

Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
Mar 21, 2016 - 08:52pm PT
The best climbing film I've seen.
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Mar 23, 2016 - 06:55am PT
Really surprised they didn't win the Piolet d'Or for that FA. Crazy.
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Mar 23, 2016 - 10:33am PT
Excellent film. I'd love to hear how they got some of the shots.
couchmaster

climber
Mar 23, 2016 - 10:40am PT


My son was in town the other day looking at my 2 Metonia copies sitting there and asked if I had a copy of Meru we could put on and watch. "Nope, sorry", I said, "I haven't seen it and don't own it...is it any good?".. "NO WAY", his eyes bulged, "GOOD?!!!....BEST CLIMBING MOVIE....EVER!!!!" EVER TIMES 2!!! he raged. But he hasn't seen Jeff Lowes Metonia yet, nor have I.
xkyczar

Trad climber
denver
Oct 3, 2016 - 01:07pm PT
Just saw it - amazing stuff.

Wanted to point out that the Neurosurgen around minute 52 asking Renan to push against his fists is Dr. Shogun. Great person, neuro doc and a climber.
Mark Force

Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
Oct 3, 2016 - 03:38pm PT
^^^^ Cool. Thanks for that share. Chiro neuros really know their stuff. Here's to Dr. Shogun!
Messages 1 - 51 of total 51 in this topic
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